Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29er => Topic started by: Gabby on November 25, 2014, 09:27:46 AM
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I would like to build up a new IP-036 with Fox suspension and exclusively Shimano parts. I have a few questions.
My ideal build will include a Factory Fox 32 Float 29 100 Fit CTD Remote fork and a Factory Fox Float CTD Boost Valve Remote shock.
What is the correct steerer tube size to get? 1.5 or 1 1/8?
What is the correct shock size to get?
Regarding the drivetrain my ideal build will be a Shimano 2x10 system, either XT or last years XTR.
What type of Shimano front detailer works with the IP-036?
What size Shimano bottom bracket works with the IP-036?
Also what type/size of headset works with the IP-036?
I appreciate the help and I’m sure I will have more questions.
Thanks,
Gabby
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Hey Gabby..
Sorry, I don't know the answer to your questions but I thought I'd suggest that you start a thread.. You'll get more/faster responses that way.
And welcome to the forum!
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Hi Gabby,
Good choice on the IP-036 !
The IP-036 will come with a tapered headtube so you will need to buy a tapered fork, which will be a 1.1/8 - 1.5" Tapered.
(You can buy forks with straight steerers but will need headset adapters, this can be avoided if you are buying new)
The rear shock size will be eye to eye 165mm (6.5")
The headset will also need to be tapered. Cane Creek do a mix and match range, top bearing cup Inner diameter is 42mm
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/cane-creek-40-series-is42-top-assembly/rp-prod115645
The lower bearing cup Inner diameter is 52mm
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/cane-creek-40-series-is52-40-bottom-assembly/rp-prod115643
There are many different options available ! Your chindor can also include one with the frame if you ask. Many on here have used that option (Neco/FSA)
You can specify which Bottom Bracket you want your frame to be. I went with BB30, the down side to BB30 is that you need specialist tools to fit the bearings. If you go with BSA the bearing cups screw into the frame so is much easier to fit/replace yourself.
As for which FD I cant really help. I went with a 1x11 set up so I did zero research on the FD ! I'm sure others will be along to chip in with advice on that !
Good luck with the build and ask about anything you have doubts on, everyone on here is super helpful !
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lol.. I spoke too soon. About 4 minutes too soon :P
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Hey Gabby..
Sorry, I don't know the answer to your questions but I thought I'd suggest that you start a thread.. You'll get more/faster responses that way.
And welcome to the forum!
Probably a better answer !!! 8)
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'Own' topic for Gabby :)
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'Own' topic for Gabby :)
Thank you
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Hi Gabby,
Good choice on the IP-036 !
The IP-036 will come with a tapered headtube so you will need to buy a tapered fork, which will be a 1.1/8 - 1.5" Tapered.
(You can buy forks with straight steerers but will need headset adapters, this can be avoided if you are buying new)
The rear shock size will be eye to eye 165mm (6.5")
The headset will also need to be tapered. Cane Creek do a mix and match range, top bearing cup Inner diameter is 42mm
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/cane-creek-40-series-is42-top-assembly/rp-prod115645
The lower bearing cup Inner diameter is 52mm
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/cane-creek-40-series-is52-40-bottom-assembly/rp-prod115643
There are many different options available ! Your chindor can also include one with the frame if you ask. Many on here have used that option (Neco/FSA)
You can specify which Bottom Bracket you want your frame to be. I went with BB30, the down side to BB30 is that you need specialist tools to fit the bearings. If you go with BSA the bearing cups screw into the frame so is much easier to fit/replace yourself.
As for which FD I cant really help. I went with a 1x11 set up so I did zero research on the FD ! I'm sure others will be along to chip in with advice on that !
Good luck with the build and ask about anything you have doubts on, everyone on here is super helpful !
Thanks for the information and I now understand about the fork and shocks and headset.
I'm still having trouble grasping the bottom bracket option. Does Shimano make both kinds?
Also if someone could recommend a specific Shimano front derailer that would be great.
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For Shimano HollowTechII, it's probably easiest to go an English thread BSA housing for your bottom bracket. As was said earlier, no specialist tools are required per se. I had never changed a BSA BB before, but after looking at YouTube, I had completed the job in under 5mins.
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"I'm still having trouble grasping the bottom bracket option. Does Shimano make both kinds? "
I'm pretty sure Shimano stick to the BSA threaded option. Adapters are available to convert BB30 for Shimano cranks, probably best avoided if you are buying new.
If you are going with a Shimano crankset I would order the frame with BSA BB.
With the IP-036 the cable routing for the FD is underneath the downtube, passing under the BB shell and into the rear swingarm. This means the FD needs to be a bottom pull direct mount (The frame has a mounting point to bolt on the FD instead of using clamp).
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Just to make matters a little more confusing, there are also adapters the other way around. I'm a big fan of BSA as threaded connectionis more reliable, less risk of screeching (bb30) or plastic parts getting wrecked (PF systems), yet I'd love to have stiffer 30mm cranks. Thankfully companies like Rotor made it possible: http://www.power2max.de/europe/en/Produkt/accessories/rotor-bsa30-bottom-bracket-for-bsa/
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"I'm still having trouble grasping the bottom bracket option. Does Shimano make both kinds? "
I'm pretty sure Shimano stick to the BSA threaded option. Adapters are available to convert BB30 for Shimano cranks, probably best avoided if you are buying new.
If you are going with a Shimano crankset I would order the frame with BSA BB.
With the IP-036 the cable routing for the FD is underneath the downtube, passing under the BB shell and into the rear swingarm. This means the FD needs to be a bottom pull direct mount (The frame has a mounting point to bolt on the FD instead of using clamp).
Thanks I will stick with the BSA BB
So would these be the correct FD?
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-xtr-m985-e2-type-2x10-front-mech/rp-prod83058
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-xt-m786-direct-mount-2x10-front-mech/rp-prod69486
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For Shimano HollowTechII, it's probably easiest to go an English thread BSA housing for your bottom bracket. As was said earlier, no specialist tools are required per se. I had never changed a BSA BB before, but after looking at YouTube, I had completed the job in under 5mins.
English thread BSA looks like the best option and thanks
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"I'm still having trouble grasping the bottom bracket option. Does Shimano make both kinds? "
I'm pretty sure Shimano stick to the BSA threaded option. Adapters are available to convert BB30 for Shimano cranks, probably best avoided if you are buying new.
If you are going with a Shimano crankset I would order the frame with BSA BB.
With the IP-036 the cable routing for the FD is underneath the downtube, passing under the BB shell and into the rear swingarm. This means the FD needs to be a bottom pull direct mount (The frame has a mounting point to bolt on the FD instead of using clamp).
Thanks I will stick with the BSA BB
So would these be the correct FD?
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-xtr-m985-e2-type-2x10-front-mech/rp-prod83058
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-xt-m786-direct-mount-2x10-front-mech/rp-prod69486
Looks like FD's are a minefield as well !! I have seen similar problems on an IP-256 thread too....
Looking at the way the bolt holes are positioned I think you would need the E2 type. I had a look around here and over on MTBR for those that had run Shimano 2x10 setups (Not that many surprisingly !!) Most hadn't stated which specific type of FD they had used, just whether it was XT or XTR. One had definitely used the XT-M785 which is the E2-type.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-xt-m785-e2-type-2x10-front-mech/rp-prod69485
Putting in the search parameters on CRC you get the XT-M785, the XTR-M985 you linked above and the Deore M615.
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I forgot to ask about frame size. I'm exactly 6 feet tall so would a 19 be the correct frame size for me?
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I forgot to ask about frame size. I'm exactly 6 feet tall so would a 19 be the correct frame size for me?
Absolutely
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Probably a stupid question but when you pick a color for the frame to be painted do you still need to select the weave and finish? Ultimately I just want the frame to look painted and I do not want to see any weave. Hope this makes sense.
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I forgot to ask about frame size. I'm exactly 6 feet tall so would a 19 be the correct frame size for me?
Yes, 19" is probably your best choice. I am 5'-11" and my IP-036 feels like it is the correct size for me. You being only a little taller should still fall into the Large 19" size.
If you have any doubt, go to a SCOTT dealer in your area and ride a Spark, it has very similar geometry to the IP-036.
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For painting, weave and finish would only matter if you want to leave some of the frame unpainted.
I kind of like the look with sections of weave showing, but I had mine painted solid red.
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Can anyone recommend stem length and angle for XC racing. Frame will be a 19 inch IP-036. I’m exactly 6 feet tall, my torso and legs and arms are all in proportion. I will be running flat bars with zero rise.
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That's a tough question. It can be anywhere from 90 to 120mm. Maybe start at 100mm?
You can always buy some cheap stems to try out. When you find the "correct" length...then pick up a nice one.
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The width of your bars and length of your stem have to be chosen to suit each other. A recent trend is running really wide bars, say 720mm, and running it with a shorter stem of say 50mm. Whereas before the norm was more like 100mm stem and 650mm wide bars. But like VR6 said, for XC racing the norm is probably 100mm stems and then a bar to suit your reach. Just thought I'd point out there's a lot of room for customization in this area and it can have pretty big affects on the way your bike feels and handles, so it's worth considering all of your options.
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The width of your bars and length of your stem have to be chosen to suit each other. A recent trend is running really wide bars, say 720mm, and running it with a shorter stem of say 50mm. Whereas before the norm was more like 100mm stem and 650mm wide bars. But like VR6 said, for XC racing the norm is probably 100mm stems and then a bar to suit your reach. Just thought I'd point out there's a lot of room for customization in this area and it can have pretty big affects on the way your bike feels and handles, so it's worth considering all of your options.
Thanks for mentioning bar width. I do plan on going with at least 720mm.
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That's a tough question. It can be anywhere from 90 to 120mm. Maybe start at 100mm?
You can always buy some cheap stems to try out. When you find the "correct" length...then pick up a nice one.
Thanks, perhaps a bike fitting place would have all of the different sizes and angles. Or I was thinking of starting with 80mm or 90mm with a -6 angle. My bars will be at least 720mm wide, 0 rise and a 9 degree back sweep
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For X-country/trail riding I wouldn't think you need to go much wider than 680-720mm on the bar, do you have trees where you ride? Some trails I ride here in Georgia have some narrow openings between trees that my 680mm bar is close rubbing as I ride through.
Do you plan on getting riser bars or flat bars? That would affect what stem angle you would choose. For my XC riding, I tend to like riser bars with a 0deg, 100mm stem. I am about your size and that fits me comfortably.
I know everyone is thinking wide bars and short stem, however, that is coming from Enduro/Downhill riding where people like to move their weight a bit more off the front wheel and steering that favors high speed stability. For X-Country, I tend to like a more even front/rear weight distribution and steering that favors tighter lines.
Wide bars do offer a bit more leverage for long climbs, something favored by the single speed crowd.
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For X-country/trail riding I wouldn't think you need to go much wider than 680-720mm on the bar, do you have trees where you ride? Some trails I ride here in Georgia have some narrow openings between trees that my 680mm bar is close rubbing as I ride through.
Do you plan on getting riser bars or flat bars? That would affect what stem angle you would choose. For my XC riding, I tend to like riser bars with a 0deg, 100mm stem. I am about your size and that fits me comfortably.
I know everyone is thinking wide bars and short stem, however, that is coming from Enduro/Downhill riding where people like to move their weight a bit more off the front wheel and steering that favors high speed stability. For X-Country, I tend to like a more even front/rear weight distribution and steering that favors tighter lines.
Wide bars do offer a bit more leverage for long climbs, something favored by the single speed crowd.
My bars have a 0 rise and a 9 degree back sweep. I can have them 720mm wide but I do not want to go any narrower.
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(http://s22.postimg.org/emse81ncx/IMG_5658.jpg)I’m having some issue with the linkage especially where the front derailer is. My mechanic has told me that everything on the bike is tightened down per the specifications but the back end is still very very loose.
And the one large black bolt just turns and never tightens?
What do you recommend me doing to fix this?
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What do you recommend me doing to fix this?
Move to a 1x11 setup 8).
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What do you recommend me doing to fix this?
Move to a 1x11 setup 8).
Perhaps one day but the derailer is not the issue It's the linkage. There is a lot of play and it is making the ride feel horrible.
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What do you recommend me doing to fix this?
Move to a 1x11 setup 8).
Perhaps one day but the derailer is not the issue It's the linkage. There is a lot of play and it is making the ride feel horrible.
Do some searching on here. I'm pretty sure someone posted how they fixed their 036 with good results. If I find it, I'll post a link.
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Check out this thread:
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,699.0.html
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Check out this thread:
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,699.0.html
Thanks for this.
Does anyone know if the bolt is supposed to spin and not tighten all of the way?
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What was the outcome? Did you get a washer? Reduce the play in the rear end
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What was the outcome? Did you get a washer? Reduce the play in the rear end
I have my bike in the shop now and I'm hoping they will come up with a solution.
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I picked up my bike from the shop and they told me the spacer was on the wrong side of the bearing. They swapped it out and the play seems like it is almost gone but not 100% gone. The black bolt is now tight and does not spin. I plan on riding tomorrow.