That seems too much in my opinion. Maybe you installed c ring upsidedown? Mine is nicely flush and has a minimal gap.

Yeah, your bearings will be ruined in no time like that... There must be something installed wrong... Do the pins of the spacer fit nicely in the holes?

It's time I stop riding in short sleeve everything in wet 8°c
Does anyone have this? https://aliexpress.com/item/1005007593454835.html

That chamois looks like it is cheap and crappy

I bought it from QILEFU Official Store on aliexpress - this is the listing: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804478469196.html
But now this listing is the new version with the headset cable routing, mine is the old version with the external routing holes.

The paint job is just plain, flat black with clear coat. Nothing special at all, but I like it.

Can you share some pics?

I hope so, but why would they list it separately under weight ("central axis 95g")?

There are pictures of the crank on a scale. It does't get more clear than that 

Ediy: they mean the BB is 95gr

is this the newer riro model?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007736867300.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.3.7ef37f44Sz8tYI&algo_pvid=5e9173ca-6851-4245-9866-6d8d6490bdba&algo_exp_id=5e9173ca-6851-4245-9866-6d8d6490bdba-1&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%21403.53%21199.04%21%21%213047.80%211503.29%21%402103917f17303781463208661ee294%2112000042036375891%21sea%21IE%211685174223%21X&curPageLogUid=DW6N7gd5kpF4&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A

Yes, that is the new model. But if you want to use a powermeter, you don't have much options with this interface.

Still not sure if I should go for it. I really want a lightweight-ish frame though and the geometry is just spot on...

It depends I guess.... If you always ride alone it could be OK, but if you do group rides, there will definitely be some real SL8's and it will be a little (or a lot) embarrassing to ride a fake...

For all of you brave and handy mechanics who went with mechanical group on this frame... Please tell me, is it THAT painful? I've routed countless of cables through mtb frames, but still virgin with regards to integrated handlebars.

I was keen on getting di2 105, but damn, not sure I wanna cash out thousand+ € on it. I found really cheap 105 2x12 mechanical on Ali for 350€ (shifters, f+rd and hydro brake callipers), and that leaves me with only cranks, chain and 2 rotors to buy.

It's not the money that's the issue, it's the bang for buck issue. If so many road bikes now come with mechanical groups, I don't see why couldn't I go with it, except if the shifting perf will suck. I get it, internal routing will be pita, but once I do that, what's left to be sorry about? Couple ms faster shifting? Dont give a damn about that. RD/FD indexing? Not a problem, and from my mtb experience with shimano 12sp, they are so damn rock solid and once you set them up, they can go really forever without a issue.

Advise me please, my roadie elders.

I have not build up this frame, but others. 2 tips:
1. search youtube for cable routing through the bars. Very good tutorials
2. Use a routing kit for the frame. When I first did my Hygge frame I thought I could do it without the routing kit. After struggling with it for an hour I finally grabbed the routing kit and after a few minutes it was done.