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Re: Velobuild Gf01
...Quesion, is the GF-01 my best option? Does it work with standard Sram cx1 groupset?...
Velobuild has good reviews, but since you ask my opinion  ;)
Personally I prefer to work with Carbonda for the great quality and service and after sale.

A new SRAM crank will be DUB, and will be compatible with any BB386-DUB BB.
WMFG are great.

Since my current bike is QR, I'd need new wheel. Since I'm both on road and in forest, I need 2 sets :( Plan is 1 set with communting/bikepack tires. Somethink like 32mm Continental 4seasons, and 1 set with graveltires (running 33mm challenge limos now, but guess that is more of a cross tire).
Except if you want high performance on asphalt, maybe one wheelset is enough with either Continental Terra speed 38 or 40mm or even better Maxxis Rambler 40mm are both great polyvalent tires except on deep mud.

...What would be a cheap and ok wheelset for this frame?
Does it make sense not to go for 650 wheels? If im going to go on harsh terrain I would take MTB anyway (IP-256sl, 1x10)
700c wheels roll much better, even on rocks & roots.
Look for the WR series of rims at lightbicycle.com, 32mm wide external.
My preferred are the WR38  8)
If on budget, with bitex hubs, pilar aero spokes but with brass nipples.

October 26, 2021, 05:31:39 PM
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The Un-Official Guide To Fixing Headset Play - Please Add Your Advice Here Hey Everyone,

I wanted to create a guide to help troubleshoot headset play regardless of bike brand. By no means am I an expert, and I hope others can add to this thread. Please understand this guide/thread isn't intended for airing our bike brand grievances or calling out user errors. Ultimately we all just want our bikes to work as intended.

Common Reasons For Headset Play

1. Steerer/Fork isn't cut low enough, or an extra spacer is required above the stem to properly compress the top cap. When initially cutting the steer tube, an extra 2-4mm below the cut line needs to be accounted for in order for the top cap to recess properly.

2. The headset bearing (upper or lower) doesn't sit inside the head tube cup snug enough (laterally, front to back). Velobuild, for example, provides 52mm diameter headset bearings. Other headsets sold online or for other bike brands may only be 51.8mm diameter. That 0.2mm is the difference between a snug fit or loose headset. If your bearings are loose this will always cause play. You can add a couple layers of tape inside the bearing cup to prevent the bearing from moving around. Or just buy a new 52mm headset.

3. The top headset bearing is recessed too far into the head tube cup, causing the headset cover to rub on the frame, preventing the complete headset stack to properly compress. If this is the case you will need a thicker headset bearing (7mm, 7.5mm or 8mm thick) or a thicker c-ring so that it sits flush with the top of the headset opening on the frame, thus preventing the headset cover from rubbing the frame. EDIT: Another resolution is adding some micro spacers between the c-ring and top cap.

4. The upper and lower headset bearings are installed in reverse. Some bikes (like Yoeleo's recent G21 gravel bike) provide a set of headset bearings, with one of the two bearings being slightly thicker than the other. The thicker of the two bearings needs to be installed on top of the head tube, and the thinner bearing on the bottom. If these two bearings are installed in reverse order then...see Common Issue #3

It is critical to do a dry run of installing the crown race, headset bearings, c-ring, headset cap, stem/cockpit, and any additional spacers before actually proceeding to building up the bike. Also be sure to compare and inspect the two headset bearings to confirm they are in fact the same size and thickness.

August 02, 2022, 02:23:09 PM
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Re: TanTan TT-X38 Build
HAHA I was waiting for someone to flag. I sent this to a buddy who is all about aesthetic and knew it'd be the first thing he said too!

Noticed it after mounting and din't want to peel it off and fuck with sealant and all that nonsense when it doesn't actually have any real impact on slicks other than aesthetic.

I'll probably flip it when I swap my bars since i'll be back in 'get liquid everywhere' mode bleeding out my brakes.

while you are at it, you also need to line up your logos with your valves ;)

October 25, 2023, 02:41:27 PM
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Re: TanTan TT-X38 Build
while you are at it, you also need to line up your logos with your valves ;)

ON IT!

October 25, 2023, 06:16:58 PM
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Re: Bross Zenith 2023 For the US market, the brand name reminds me of B(ob)Ross so they need a colorway with happy trees and clouds.
October 30, 2023, 01:59:46 PM
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Re: New gravel carbon frame set with small suspension LCG073-D The review of new gravel frame with small suspension LCG073-D
https://www.gravelbike.be/gravelbike?fbclid=IwAR0CgCw9echAK6dCT4BOizdkw9gFvHBqJglJwyH12mV8Jxaj4WRGs5rrwFo#/lightcarbon-gravel-73/

November 30, 2023, 03:01:03 AM
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Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame Hello,


yes I received mine last week ago. It's under construction. As long as i can say, everything is pretty good. I am going to post some pictures in a few days.

JV

January 08, 2024, 03:54:09 AM
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Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame I will definitely circle back the pictures, and can provide details on the build process. Especially on the topic of going mechanical this time.
March 11, 2024, 03:48:27 AM
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Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame My first look video is live on the channel.

YouTube Search: Velobuild 268 First Look - My excitement for budget frames has returned
https:// youtu.be/SKZo17VVuEk?si=lfH6xQdDkYU3oMDy

https://youtu.be/SKZo17VVuEk?si=lfH6xQdDkYU3oMDy

April 01, 2024, 02:38:47 PM
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Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame Update on my 268

Highs
-I love the Mavic thru-axle system. It's quite convenient actually. Being able to keep the axles in place when both transporting the bike and working on it on a mechanic stand is great.

-The bike is both stiff and nimble enough. I can't say there really is any discernible difference in stiffness compared to other bikes. Unless you are truly sprinting or climbing, there will be plenty of other variables in regards to maintaining any set speed.

-Visually I appreciate the frame design. Obviously because it looks like an SL7/Venge. Well rounded proportions. The sloping top tube gives the visual impression of an extreme saddle-to-handlebar drop versus a more horizontal top tube. More exposed seatpost (should?) also means more comfort as the seatpost has the ability to flex. 32c GP5000 tubeless fits no problem.

Lows
-Zero setback seatpost. It's not fully problematic for me, but I had to move my saddle back far more than I'm accustomed to. If this was my only road bike it would most likely be a deal breaker. A non-issue for most folks however.

-7x9 saddle clamp for carbon rails. On my particular clamp when using my AliExpress carbon saddle (7x9 rails), visually it does not appear as if the clamps are fully engaging with the rails. Other 268 owners with carbon saddles have not experienced this, and so far the saddle has stayed put. However, the saddle clamp bolt is now slightly bent from trying secure to the rails. Also a non-issue if you're using 7x7 rails as VB also supplies clamps for that too. Just something to be aware of.

-While the bike as a whole rides better than my previous VeloBuild frames, it does still suffer some from road chatter at the rear triangle. Rough pavement can upset the back end. Thankfully though still far better than my Dengfu R12 and TanTan x38 in this regard. This is completely subjective and anecdotal of course. Over the past few weeks I've made an effort to rotate riding each of my bikes everyday day to get a good feel on the differences and overall riding dynamics.

Closing
It's a great DIY bike at the price point so far. As always, wheel selection and bike fit/position will do most of the heavy lifting. If I could change anything it would be adding more reach to cockpit to offset the zero setback seatpost. Dear VeloBuild: Please make one for me thanks!

May 02, 2024, 03:06:12 PM
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