Dear riders, I would like your precious advice on the road bike components and frame. I am in mtb for 4 years now, and would like to give a go with road bike as well.

I have good experience with fm936 frame and build. I have also good experience with ali components; bars, stems, seatposts...

1. So my first question is, what carbonda road frame would you suggest for a starter roadie?

2. What is the best option for wheels and groupset?

a)Since I have some experience with wheel building so wouldn't be a problem to order hubs/rims and spokes and make my own wheels. My safe bet for my mtb bikes was dt rims (471,391...) and ali hubs (ztto, goldix). Are dt aluminum rim ok for a starter or is it better to go carbon straigh away?

b)I noticed that brake levers/shifters from shimano/sram are SOOOO expensive, so I am thinking about getting ltwoo levers/shifters. Is that good choice?

I will be having more questions, hopefully will get an answer.

It's aliveeee!

Frame arrived yesterday. Shiping was very fast, I was so surprised! Here's the detailed build:

fm936 SL size L
SID ult 120
Dt r232 remote
XT/deore brakes
391 rims with ztto/dt hubs
ztto cassette 9-50 ult pro
slx cranks
cheap light pedals
aliex handlebar/stem combo 40mm
recon race 2.35 rear/ pirrelli scorpion 2.4 front (not 2.4 tbh, 2.35 recon race is wider on a same rim)
KS rage-i 125 dropper
shimano dropper lever

Build landed on 11.4kg and I'm satisfied. Will go a bit more weight weenie in the future. Went for a ride and I'm thrilled! The body position is exactly on spot. Size is perfect (185cm). Downhill performance is exceptional. Uphill is really good, not better than my Alma though. I went for shot stem/bar combo and I notice that on steeper uphills the wheel wanders a bit and needs a bit leaning forward to keep it stable. But it's expected since wheelbase is enormous...

forgot about remote... method I linked before from a german forum worked well. The flexible housing is kind of stiff, but it doesn't kink. The system works well and I have to say that I do need that lockout while on flat road. I do notice bobbing while fully open. DT has one middle position on a damper called "ride" and it's perfect for smoth gravel track. That way I can go a bit plusher on sag, making the fully open ride plush as a pillow. There's no sag indicator, I guess it's around 30%, a bit less perhaps.

My fm936 is on the way 

I am thinking now between 2 forks for it: Sid Ultimate and Charger RL. Obvious difference is 100+ grams in favour of ultimate, but the other thing is the lockout. I got used and fell in love with hard lockout I had on my old cheap Markhor fork, and Raceday damper on my SL fork is stiff as well.

So my question is for anyone that has Charger RL Sid 35 fork: is the lockout "rock solid" as the Rockshox claims or it still has some play when you grind the pedals out of the saddle?

Hi, I haven't been here for a while. Preparing for the new season I was thinking about changing crankarms for shorter due to some last season dengerous situations despite having SID 120mm and 43mm rear shock (dt 535 with self made 2mm spacer).  And here is what interesting news I came across: new 'longer' rocker arm release. I want to go for it. Have you guys CAD/pdf drawing of it? I'd like to check the geo change, especially the BB lift up, before I pull the trigger. It may be only three distance measurements between the axes instead of drawing.

Wing responded to me that there's a delay for 120mm linkage. It'll be available by the end of march

I was hoping to get the frame by mid-march... So sad now. So you can expect them not to be shipped that soon, too bad.

I have one question for you by the way. You made a spacer for 535? I already ordered 232 shock for 45mm travel. Is it possible to modify 232 travel from 45 to 40/42.5, and could you direct me how to do it?

I'm thinking about ordering 100mm linkage, and modify 232 so I can put it on, and order 120mm when they have them ready.

Just to correct myself and update on ztto 9-50 pro ult XD cassette.

It's not xdr, it's xd, obviously. Appologies. But since I'm here already, I'll just note that I had issues with rear wheel locking on the freehub with the XD freehub body for P3 Boost hubs from ZTTO. It simply wouldn't coast but pedals would turn as well. Good thing, however, is that I solved that problem by adding small shim over the axle, on the hub (sandwiched between freehub and hub itself. It's a small shim I dont even know where it was in the first place. I think I had it on my dt 350 rear hub that I have laying aroung.

Same p3 ztto hub wasn't having those issues with MS cassette/freehub.

Cassette itself isn't as smooth as Shimano. BUT, it does shift with acceptable precision. No too much unwanted noise. I still need to test it in driving conditions (i configured it on a bike stand for now) and will be reporting here. Bottom line: it can be configured pretty darn well, it is almost as light as XTR and it really does prevent chain from falling while back pedaling on 1st cog.

Im hoping it will serve me for couple of k's of km's happily

I was communicating with Wing. He said 1-2 weeks waiting time. Does that mean they take 1-2 weeks to make, then ship?

I think I've decieded. I'm gonna go for the 120mm rear linkage, and 120mm fork. I want this bike to be my gnarlier race-oriented dc machine... BUUUT... Only quibble I have is the remote lockout. I really want to have the possibility of locking out the shock. Since I do plan to race on in, and my local races have lots of fireroad climbs... So I really need that lockout. I went through all 150 pages, and learned:

1. sidluxe doesnt have 165x45 with remote? possible with 150ish€ top cap that seems nowhere in stock 
2. fox dps doable? pricey in eu 
3. manitou mara cable exits downwards and makes it hard
4. dt shock r232? also pricey

So what options do I have for 45mm travel shock and rem. lockout? Please say there is something doable 

I probably wouldn't.  If 120mm was achieved by just taking out the shock spacer, then I'd be all for it.  But since the 120mm linkage raises the rear, you'd end up with a ~78deg seat tube, and ~68deg head tube.  Maybe it won't feel too weird, and I'm sure it'd be fine if you had plans to moving to a 120mm fork in the future.  But if you are set on using the Sid SL, then just get the normal linkage.

Are you sure about cca 1° change in ha/sa with 120mm rear link? I read somewhere here on the thread that new link should raise the rear 3-5mm, and since when we raise the fork for 20mm, the hta changes for a degree, then 3-5mm raise shouldn't translate into 1° difference... i think. pls correct me if my math is off.