Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: 00Garza on January 27, 2023, 07:06:05 PM
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The gravel curiosity finally got the best of me and I pulled the trigger on a Flyxii FE-02 on Jan 15th. Purchased through Ali and after discounts and coupons came out to $483 shipped. I'll update this post as I purchase all the parts to keep a tab on my budget (which I've already blown apart :P).
Edit: build list updated
$483- Flyxii FE-02 matte black
$386- Ltwoo GR9 1x11 hydro group
$12- Toseek ultralight stem
$25- Toseek carbon seatpost
$43- ZNIINO flared carbon bars
$315- DT Swiss G 1800 Spline 25 (merlincycles)
$4- 3k gloss carbon spacers
$18- 3k gloss carbon bottle cages
$27- carbon saddle
$20- YBN 11sp chain
$90- Senicx 1x crankset 44t chainring
$35- Sunshine 11/46 cassette
$20- Shimano RT10 rotors (pair)
$10- longer expander plug (better safe than sorry)
$36- WTB Riddlers 45c
$8- carbon stem cap
$45- Shimano PD-M520 Pedals
$18- Marquee bar tape
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Looking forward to following your build! Thank you for posting this one.
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Good luck with the build! Post photos. The frameset did not include handlebar or you chose not to?
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Good luck with the build! Post photos. The frameset did not include handlebar or you chose not to?
Thanks! Its going to be a slow process. Just realized frame probably won't be here til end of February or so. I'll use this time to figure out what drivetrain I want to use. Leading toward GRX or Sram Apex 1x. If the Ltwoo hydro stuff gets a price drop I might still entertain that option, but at its current price point its just not worth the risk/hassle.
This is an older model frame with standard cable routing, so no proprietary handlebar/stem/headset. That's really the main reason I chose this frame.
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Thanks! Its going to be a slow process. Just realized frame probably won't be here til end of February or so. I'll use this time to figure out what drivetrain I want to use. Leading toward GRX or Sram Apex 1x. If the Ltwoo hydro stuff gets a price drop I might still entertain that option, but at its current price point its just not worth the risk/hassle.
This is an older model frame with standard cable routing, so no proprietary handlebar/stem/headset. That's really the main reason I chose this frame.
Good decision to go with simple cable routing. ICR on my VB frame was a nightmare. I shudder at the thought when I have to change cables/upgrade to hydraulic. I spent about 2 months building my bike too lol it was a good time though. Messed up few parts, ordered them again and spent a LONG time just for the parts to arrive - bad planning on my part.
If you do go LTwoo way, definitely keep us posted. I am like you, that price is putting me off. And if I buy and don't like it, I doubt anyone will touch that group on FB marketplace or OfferUp either.
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I like mine
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I like mine
That’s almost the exact build I had originally dreamed up. I planned on 2x11 though. Budget constraints made me go cheaper on wheels to hopefully splurge on drivetrain. Waiting for either a big Shimano sale to go GRX, or ltwoo to drop prices on their hydro group before pulling the trigger.
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Parts are starting to arrive in the mail, so its feeling real now! Frame should be here in a week or so.
I need help deciding on groupset. I rode Campagnolo Chorus on my road bike and currently ride Shimano xt on my mtb. Will I be miserable riding Sensah or Ltwoo on my gravel rig, or is it good enough? If I wait a bit, I should be able to splurge on some shimano grx or Sram apex.
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Parts are starting to arrive in the mail, so its feeling real now! Frame should be here in a week or so.
I need help deciding on groupset. I rode Campagnolo Chorus on my road bike and currently ride Shimano xt on my mtb. Will I be miserable riding Sensah or Ltwoo on my gravel rig, or is it good enough? If I wait a bit, I should be able to splurge on some shimano grx or Sram apex.
At the very least I'd at least get a Shimano GRX 810/812 RD and/or FD if you plan on running 2x. People forget that Sensah has their 11 speed Team Pro Shimano compatible shifters and LTwoo uses the Shimano pull ratio. You can even run 105/Ultegra hydraulic or mechanical shifters with GRX. I'm really loving my GRX 812 RD's flexibility; the ability to fine tune clutch tension and the overall durability. You can run a Garbaruk or a Wolftooth Road/Goatlink to utilize bigger cassettes.
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If mixing is a goal, I actually would do the opposite. Use shimano levers with RD from ltwoo. Why? Because the 52t casette support is native. I have the grx812 with a garbaruk cage and I am not that impressed with it to be honest... . And shimano clutches are a bit crappy, at least the XTR I have in my 29er sucks BIG time.
Goat link moves the upper pulley away from the small sprocket. If shimano native already struggles with a 10t, I cannot imagine how bad would it work with a goat link...
Shimano levers are nice though. I have the 810 and they are pretty solid. Ltwoo too though.
Same story with sram+sensah. I never unserstood why people chose sram derailleur with sensah shifters. That removes the hydraulic option. I would rather do the opposite: sram shifters with hydraulic brakes and a sensah srx derailleur for a massive 52t native capacity
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Solid reasoning for both sides of that argument.
I've heard mixed results with the ltwoo rear mech's performance, but the added range is a plus. Still have time to think about it fortunately.
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Which Ltwoo Rear mech are people considering? I've got a full 105 hydro set to transfer but wanted a bigger rear cassette (11-40) what should I consider?
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One of the main reasons I prefer current Shimano RDs is due to the shadow derailleur design. It shifts the position of the derailleur mount slighter in-board protecting it from damage and mis-alignment. All it takes is one perfectly angled drive-side bike drop to mess up hanger alignment with non-shadow derailleurs. Gravel riding is even more susceptible to bike drops/falling due to rougher terrain riding. Also I found by increasing the lower pulley size to 13t on the stock cage, it allows you to bring the derailleur cage closer to the small cog when using a Goatlink to improve shifting. It doesn't shift as quickly as a 105/Ultegra RD on a small ratio cassette, but if you need to go with a big cassette, your priority is having access to ultra low gearing. So far I found this to be a solid compromise.
Also one more thing to mention, the GRX clutch tension can easily be adjusted using a wrench. I lowered my GRX 812 tension allowing me to shift smoothly while still keeping the clutch engaged. If tension is too tight, it makes it harder to shift unless you only plan to use the clutch on the lowest gear and need maximum cage arm stability.
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Which Ltwoo Rear mech are people considering? I've got a full 105 hydro set to transfer but wanted a bigger rear cassette (11-40) what should I consider?
Just stay with shimano. You can get a GRX 812 rear derailleur.
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Frame arrived today! Box was a little banged up but frame is in perfect condition. Frame, fork, axles, headset, spare hanger, seatpost clamp were all well packaged.
Toseek stem and seatpost came in a few days ago as well. Slight dimple on the stem faceplate. I’ll keep an eye on it after the build, but I don’t think it’s a big deal.
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I never weighted the frame and fork. How much does it weight and what size did you choose?
It looks nice, doesn't it?
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I never weighted the frame and fork. How much does it weight and what size did you choose?
It looks nice, doesn't it?
I ordered a 56, and have no scale worth using to weigh it. Not really caring too much about weight for this build really.
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ZNIINO bars came in today. Look good and feel plenty strong enough. One step closer to having to pick a drivetrain.
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ZNIINO bars came in today. Look good and feel plenty strong enough. One step closer to having to pick a drivetrain.
Be careful tightening the stem cap. I cracked that handlebar with that...
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Be careful tightening the stem cap. I cracked that handlebar with that...
Yeah, I'm already eyeing some alu bars as back ups just in case.
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Yeah, I'm already eyeing some alu bars as back ups just in case.
For the stem, just use a torque wrench and apply the proper NM and you should be fine. i find the shifters harder to torque though due the bolt placement, I usually just do those using a regular hex wrench, but I tighten them carefully.
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Just pulled the trigger on the ltwoo 1x11 hydro gravel group. Turned out cheaper piece it all together myself than to buy the complete groups you see some vendors selling. And I prefer the Senicx crankset (steel axle) over the RX (alloy) the group comes with.
I updated the build list in the original post. I can post links to any of the items if anyone wants to take a look at them.
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Just pulled the trigger on the ltwoo 1x11 hydro gravel group. Turned out cheaper piece it all together myself than to buy the complete groups you see some vendors selling. And I prefer the Senicx crankset (steel axle) over the RX (alloy) the group comes with.
I updated the build list in the original post. I can post links to any of the items if anyone wants to take a look at them.
I wouldn't mind the links to the parts you found separately, if it's not too much trouble. Or at least how much you saved compared to buying it separately
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I wouldn't mind the links to the parts you found separately, if it's not too much trouble. Or at least how much you saved compared to buying it separately
Savings came out to about $30 dollars, most of that from shipping. All the individual items (rotors, chain, crank, cassette) came with free shipping, whereas the complete group had a hefty $80-$90 shipping fee. Shipping on the mini group (shifters, rd, calipers) was only $28. I purchased it from 80 Designer Store.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804954514361.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.28.508c18028E3y0k&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US
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Ltwoo group arrived today. Gave it a quick cat scan just to be safe.
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Finally received all the bits to get this thing built! I’m having a local bike mechanic do the work and he really liked the Ltwoo group…at first glance.
Rear derailleur is working really well. Shifter is having some issues. He swapped the shifter with a dura ace one to isolate the problem and it’s definitely the shifter. Anyone had a similar problem with their Ltwoo shifter?
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Bike is built. No issue other than the shifting. At this point pretty sure I have a defective shifter. Brakes seem to work great on the stand though. No issues with bleed or set up.
I’m in contact with both the Ali store I purchased the group from and the Ltwoo official store to see if I can get a replacement.
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You can't say build is done without sharing pictures ;)
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Don’t have great pics at the moment. Bike is still at the shop.
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Congrats for the build. I love that frame.
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Update. I’m being sent a new shifter. Just needed to pay $10 shipping. I’m ok with that. Bummed I’ll have to wait a while til it shows up.
Looks like Ltwoo official store is making sure other vendors provide after sales service.
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Bike is finally built up and will take it for its first ride this weekend. Lots spacers til I get the fit dialed in. I’ll replace the pedals with some SPD pedals. The saddle came with an obnoxiously long bolt that extended up frighteningly close to the cutout so I had it trimmed down a bit.
As you can see the clearance between derailleur and frame is a bit tight in certain gearing, but should be ok.
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First ride report.
Took it out for a quick spin this morning. Mix of paved road, rough tarmac, washboard farm roads, and a rocky little descent.
I’ve only been riding my 30 something pound trail bike do this thing feels super light! I also miss suspension.
Bike does handle well and I see the benefits of the flared bars.
Only issue is some flex in the rear. I can hear the brakes rubbing slightly when climbing out of the saddle. Mostly flat where I live so not a huge annoyance, but an annoyance nonetheless.
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100 mile update.
Frame hasn't exploded yet.
Ltwoo GR9 group is not bad. Might upgrade shift cable to something more premium to see if it makes shifting better.
Senicx GR3 crankset has been solid. Used a shimano bb instead of the stock one. No creaking and runs smooth.
Replaced Toseek stem for a shorter one I had laying around to adjust fit. Might order a "nicer" one soon.
Mixed saddle is comfy enough. I've taken some serious hits on bumpy roads and its held up well.
Toseek seatpost gets the job done. Not much to write home about. Not the lightest since it uses metal fittings instead of carbon, but I prefer sturdiness over some grams saved.
45mm WTB Riddlers are ideal for my terrain. Not overly aggressive, but just the right balance of grip and rolling resistance.
My two gripes so far:
1. Rear does have flex when pedaling standing up. Not much to do about it really. For the price of the frame, I should've expected some flaws.
2. Thru axles use an 8mm allen wrench/hex key. Why?? None of my current multi tools have an 8mm so I either have to find one with an 8mm or carry another allen wrench. Also, the allen wrench can't go in beyond maybe 10mm or so. So all the torque is on a very small part of the shaft. May not be an issue, but just a bad design choice imo.
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My two gripes so far:
1. Rear does have flex when pedaling standing up. Not much to do about it really. For the price of the frame, I should've expected some flaws.
2. Thru axles use an 8mm allen wrench/hex key. Why?? None of my current multi tools have an 8mm so I either have to find one with an 8mm or carry another allen wrench. Also, the allen wrench can't go in beyond maybe 10mm or so. So all the torque is on a very small part of the shaft. May not be an issue, but just a bad design choice imo.
You could replace the axle with one that has a lever? I have them on my gravel bike because I want to be able to easily change wheelsets and they work great....
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The ZTTO axles on alix have a 6mm hex if you want. But I think the metal is a little soft and easy to strip
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I'm looking into replacing for sure. They seem to have strange dimensions. How exact do thru axle measurements need to be? Are some measurements more important than others?
Can't find anything that matches perfectly.
Axle specs:
Front- 120L M12 P1.5 L14
Rear- 173L M12 p1.5 L15
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I'm looking into replacing for sure. They seem to have strange dimensions. How exact do thru axle measurements need to be? Are some measurements more important than others?
Can't find anything that matches perfectly.
Axle specs:
Front- 120L M12 P1.5 L14
Rear- 173L M12 p1.5 L15
The first number is the length. Depending on how the axles fit now, you could deviate a little but that is for you to decide...
The rest is the thread. I guess the last number is the length of the thread, so you could go for more or less thread depending on the length of the axle... If you go for a slightly longer axle (few mm's) you will need longer thread of else the thread will run out before the axle is tight...
Here you have suitable axles with a lever like I've got: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005002555449083.html?srcSns=com.pushbullet.android&spreadType=socialShare&bizType=ProductDetail&social_params=20975338116&aff_fcid=8d92cb73f14a4bb7be70f951f483cf1b-1684997815249-01821-_mLtxhEy&tt=MG&aff_fsk=_mLtxhEy&aff_platform=default&sk=_mLtxhEy&aff_trace_key=8d92cb73f14a4bb7be70f951f483cf1b-1684997815249-01821-_mLtxhEy&shareId=20975338116&businessType=ProductDetail&platform=AE&terminal_id=e6a6ad9f252046b3968015305bc14eaf&afSmartRedirect=y
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The first number is the length. Depending on how the axles fit now, you could deviate a little but that is for you to decide...
The rest is the thread. I guess the last number is the length of the thread, so you could go for more or less thread depending on the length of the axle... If you go for a slightly longer axle (few mm's) you will need longer thread of else the thread will run out before the axle is tight...
Here you have suitable axles with a lever like I've got: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005002555449083.html?srcSns=com.pushbullet.android&spreadType=socialShare&bizType=ProductDetail&social_params=20975338116&aff_fcid=8d92cb73f14a4bb7be70f951f483cf1b-1684997815249-01821-_mLtxhEy&tt=MG&aff_fsk=_mLtxhEy&aff_platform=default&sk=_mLtxhEy&aff_trace_key=8d92cb73f14a4bb7be70f951f483cf1b-1684997815249-01821-_mLtxhEy&shareId=20975338116&businessType=ProductDetail&platform=AE&terminal_id=e6a6ad9f252046b3968015305bc14eaf&afSmartRedirect=y
Thanks for that!
I understood the measurements, just wasn't sure which ones to prioritize. These seem like they'll do the job. I honestly prefer axles without the lever. Aesthetics I guess, but if I can't find something that works I'll definitely get these.
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Thanks for that!
I understood the measurements, just wasn't sure which ones to prioritize. These seem like they'll do the job. I honestly prefer axles without the lever. Aesthetics I guess, but if I can't find something that works I'll definitely get these.
There are a lot of options, so I doubt you won't find anything :) And if you have to go for one that's a bit longer you can also add a spacer if you want. You can also find them on ali. You could go for the 175mm axle. This will stick out 2mm (if the current axle sits flush) or you can add a spacer on the side where the axle enters the frame of 2mm and the axle will be flush again.
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Hey guys. I saw this frame is on sale at AliExpress for pretty cheap. I was wondering if anyone could give a long-term review of it? Also, has anyone tried putting 29x2 tires on it? I read in another forum there was a lot of toe overlap with front tire. TIA
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I've had my FE-02 since October 2021 and have put almost exactly 1,500 miles on it. I initially built it up with 700x42mm tires which handled well but weren't wide enough for the riding I do on this bike, so I swapped to 700x50mm Gravelking SK's which measured about 52mm on 25mm internal rims. This was good volume but put my center of mass too high for comfortable handling, and toe overlap with my size 43 shoes was also really bad with this setup. Currently I'm running 650b with tires still measuring about 52mm, and this is the best compromise for handling and tire volume I've found thus far.
Wheels/tires aside, the geometry is very stable without being too upright, which I like; it's definitely not on the progressive end of the spectrum with respect to headtube/seattube angle or anything, it's much more similar to my road bike than my mountain bike. The handling isn't as razor-sharp as my road bike either, and I wouldn't use this as bike for primarily road riding - I've had my road bike wheels (700x32mm tires) on the FE-02 for winter riding and the handling didn't really change from its 650b setup. Not that the handling is bad, I am using it right now as my main winter ride since it has full length fenders on it, just that I don't have the same sense of being one with the bike that I do on my Tarmac SL6.
Lastly, the construction quality of the frame/fork is very good and I've not had any issues running cables/wires/hoses through the downtube; the chainstays are REALLY narrow so care must be taken not to wedge internal cable routing tools in there (it sucks to get them out....). I've even been able to run a dropper post on it with Di2 - see my post history - and doing this would be even easier with mechanical shifting since there's no battery in the way. The dropper really enhances the ability of this frame to tackle rougher downhill terrain and I find myself using it a lot during regular descents too, as it offers a comfortable yet very aero position. I've ridden this bike on some truly dreadful terrain, including completely offroad bikepacking out in the woods where me + luggage + bike weighed close to 120 kg all told, and it's performed great. The frame isn't light but you get durability in return, it seems.
Overall, I'd definitely recommend this frame if you're in the market for a burly, big-tire-clearance gravel bike.
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I've ridden and raced mine foer got about 1,500 miles. Definitely recommend if budget is the primary concern.
Toe overlap is an issue at low speeds with my 175mm cranks.
I'm running 45c tires and its great for my local terrain. My only grips is some flex in the rear when I'm standing on the pedals. If I'm really putting down power the brakes do rub ever so slightly.
EDIT:
Holy cow, I just saw the price with the sale!!!
Its like $350 shipped to my door.
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Get a second one, I did xD
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Thanks for the review guys. I'll post pictures if I order it. I'm still trying to decide between fe-02 and fe-03.
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Do they still sell the FE03? In the past they named with that the carbonda 696 mold.
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Do they still sell the FE03? In the past they named with that the carbonda 696 mold.
yes they do.
https://www.flyxii.com/page5?product_id=180
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yes they do.
https://www.flyxii.com/page5?product_id=180
Oh wow. Didn't even know that was a thing. Can't seem to find it on Ali though.
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Oh wow. Didn't even know that was a thing. Can't seem to find it on Ali though.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806501538867.html
Looks to be really close to the 696 geo. I'm debating whether to pull the trigger.
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https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806501538867.html
Looks to be really close to the 696 geo. I'm debating whether to pull the trigger.
I have a 696 and I could not tell you the difference based on those pictures :D
Be sure to take the BSA bottom bracket and not the press-fit.
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I pulled the trigger on the FE-02. Should be here in 2 weeks. I'll post up some pics when it gets here. This'll be my first full carbon bike. I'm going to put a dropper and some 29x2 tires on it.
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yes they do.
https://www.flyxii.com/page5?product_id=180
Ah no no, that is not the carbonda. They used to sell the 696 mold under the name FE03. This frame is different, weird the named it the same way !
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I pulled the trigger on the FE-02. Should be here in 2 weeks. I'll post up some pics when it gets here. This'll be my first full carbon bike. I'm going to put a dropper and some 29x2 tires on it.
The fork will not allow you I think. There is in reality not that much space. I would say 45mm max
On the frame side there is more space, easily fitting a 50mm I think.
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Mine (well one of the two, the other I am still repairing it after a Car made it fly a few meters) in road mode
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The fork will not allow you I think. There is in reality not that much space. I would say 45mm max
On the frame side there is more space, easily fitting a 50mm I think.
I've had 700c x 52 mm (measured width) tires front and rear on my FE-02 with no problems, though I wouldn't go any wider as the clearance would only be like 1.5 mm per side
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Mine (well one of the two, the other I am still repairing it after a Car made it fly a few meters) in road mode
Nice. Where did you get it painted? Flyxii only offered matte or glossy black.
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Locally, a friend who is a cyclist and paints cars :) .
The second one I will try to get it painted with something inspired in the Crux.
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Mine (well one of the two, the other I am still repairing it after a Car made it fly a few meters) in road mode
This is a nice build. How do you like those wheels? Despite being out for quite some time and at reasonable price I don't see many of those. In fact I have never seen one on the road, only on forums.
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They work like any other wheel to be honest. I wouldn't buy them again as they do not provide any benefit okz there is one, spoke breakage is unlikely on the road, and no need to true the wheels). With these in particular (beskardi), there are two minor annoying things:
The pawls are very very small and the spring system so weak it is not up to the task, to the point that they require regular cleaning, relubing and re-tensioning, otherwise they start to slip. And second, both wheels came with a very annoying and noticeable play, and had to install two shims to remove it. Costing me something around 800€, I classify this as a very poorly chosen design a low performance/cost ratio, so I would not recommend them.
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They work like any other wheel to be honest. I wouldn't buy them again as they do not provide any benefit okz there is one, spoke breakage is unlikely on the road, and no need to true the wheels). With these in particular (beskardi), there are two minor annoying things:
The pawls are very very small and the spring system so weak it is not up to the task, to the point that they require regular cleaning, relubing and re-tensioning, otherwise they start to slip. And second, both wheels came with a very annoying and noticeable play, and had to install two shims to remove it. Costing me something around 800€, I classify this as a very poorly chosen design a low performance/cost ratio, so I would not recommend them.
Thanks for honest review. Elite has similar model but don't think it sells well (or sells at all?). Other advantage that I can see is easier to clean but not that it matters much.
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Well, the two advantages I mentioned are actually decent for a commuter bike, despite probably not what people buy them for LoL. They also look nice in photos, but that is pretty much all about it.
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I just got my frame a couple days. Waiting for some parts to start the build. I was wondering if anyone has run full cable housing to the rear derailleur instead of using the tubing and cable stops provided? How's the shifting with the tubing the way it's provided?
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I just got my frame a couple days. Waiting for some parts to start the build. I was wondering if anyone has run full cable housing to the rear derailleur instead of using the tubing and cable stops provided? How's the shifting with the tubing the way it's provided?
I have no experience with this frame, but from my experience with my carbonda 696 frame I would strongly advice full outer housing.
AT first I did only the inner cable but could not get it to shift right. Running it with the outer cable was the solution.