Chinertown
Other Resources => Component Deals & Selection => Topic started by: Jake on July 29, 2014, 10:15:07 AM
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Can anyone tell me if the nut of the rear axle of the IP-256 is interchangable with the nut of a Shimano E-Tru axle?
I want to get one of these: http://www.extralite.com/Products/Black%20Lock.htm (http://www.extralite.com/Products/Black%20Lock.htm) but it comes without the nut, and they say the nut of the Shimano E-Tru axle will fit.
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I don't know the answer to your question unfortunately, but I'm interested in this axle.
Would you happen to know how much the chiner axle weighs? I'll try to dig it.. pretty sure someone around here has posted the weight before.
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I don't see a QR lever on any of those axles. How would you ensure a tight fit of the axle?
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I don't see a QR lever on any of those axles. How would you ensure a tight fit of the axle?
With an allen key.
(http://fairwheelbikes.com/assets/images/Extralite_Thru_Axle_Parent_02_jpg/Extralite_Thru_Axle_Parent_02.jpg)
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I don't know the answer to your question unfortunately, but I'm interested in this axle.
Would you happen to know how much the chiner axle weighs? I'll try to dig it.. pretty sure someone around here has posted the weight before.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/49827950/axle256weight.jpg)
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Almost the same weight for me ( http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,184.msg1757.html#msg1757 )
(http://s25.postimg.org/g3do639kv/IMG_5539.jpg)
I'm also interested in saving 50gram :)
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So, a shimano's m988 thru-axle weighs 91g for perspective.
Looking at iPlay's thru-axle, it is an exact copy...I bet the nut would fit on there.
Looks like you could save 100g+ with extralite front and back - .24 lb
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It looks like the Extra-lite Black Lock axles require a torque wrench to prevent over torquing the nut. A bit inconvenient out on the trail and expensive
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It looks like the Extra-lite Black Lock axles require a torque wrench to prevent over torquing the nut. A bit inconvenient out on the trail and expensive
At first I didn't understand where you got that from but I just saw it is etched on the axis idself.
I personally don't have a problem with not using a torque wrench for these axles.
I will just practice with a torque wrench at home to learn what 10 Nm feel like.
Another thing is that the Rock Shox axle I also want to replace is expanding when you close the handle and this one isn't.
The axle of the 256 and the carbon fork are different, they just get shorter when you close the lever.
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Do people really worry that much about torque specifications? For me my general ethos is do it up tight. I have a few areas which I torque, mainly stem bolts, but everything else just gets done up until it's tight, then that's it. I'm not enough of a ham fisted idiot to have ever broken anything except for one titanium stem bolt many years ago. My current skewers are bolt up and I've never checked the torque on them, ever, and I have to take the front wheel off my bike to get it in my car every time I take it anywhere.
So personally I think the extralite axle looks awesome. For someone like me who prefers bolt up to QR, it's perfect. The only thing i'm missing is a bike with thru axles ;) if you're anal enough that you have to check torque ratings every time you do any work on your bike, how the hell do you survive if something breaks on the trail?
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I torque most bolts, particularly anything that turns or spins, which are most parts on a bike. I don't bother torquing things like brake levers, shift levers, seat rails, and pedals. I make sure I torque components like my bottom bracket, crank arms, stem bolts, seat clamp, brake calipers, and cassette. Anything that clamps to carbon is a good idea to torque. I think half the problems people have are related to over or under torquing.
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This is what could happend when over -torquing the seat clamp. It happened at the mtb of my daughter, lbs fault >:(
(http://s25.postimg.org/fx0ui7ltr/5pjm.jpg)
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I was thinking like jonxmack.
As it was my first build, I preferred to buy a torque wrench.
The VENZO Torque wrench, was quite cheap at $56 on cyclingdealusa.com(by eBay)
It comes with almost all hex and torx keys needed. But stops at 24Nm.
It ended being one of my most used tool.
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I read here : http://www.frmbike.biz/index.php/en/mountain-bike-2/components/products-for-enduro/bolt-thru-axles-ing-detail (http://www.frmbike.biz/index.php/en/mountain-bike-2/components/products-for-enduro/bolt-thru-axles-ing-detail) that the thread of a Shimano 12x142 E-Thru axle is M12x1,5mm.
Vipassana reported that the nut on the Iplay axle is M12x1.75 so it is not the same!
So if I want to get one of these: http://www.extralite.com/Products/Black%20Lock.htm (http://www.extralite.com/Products/Black%20Lock.htm) which has the same thread as the Shimano version I have to get another nut and I haven't found one yet...
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Did you consider the DT Swiss RWS E-thru axle?
http://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;navigation=1;menu=1000,2,169;product=81622
The lever is very easy to tighten.
The price and the weight were not bad either.
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The standard axle is 74,3 gr and the DT Swiss RWS E-thru axle is 65 gr and perhaps the nut is not included in this weight.
I think the weight saving is not enough...
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I ordered the Extralight Black Lock QR12.1 Shimano E-Thru axle but I have to find a M12x1.5 nut now...
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Did you ever find a nut? and where? I lost the nut on my rear axle.
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Turbo did you ever get a nut?
If you did not i made up a spare one.. IM me and i will give you the details
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Outriding9800 - you should just put it out there. That is what this forum is for. Maybe even put it up for sale in parts area if you are creating them.