Update on the crack... Carbonda did not recognize this as their fault, told me it is most likely impact damage. I am a bit dissapointed by their response, and primarily because this bike didn't see any "impacts"...period. That part is the part where the "flex-stay" is flexing. So it, to me, all points out to the quality issue. I noticed that the carbon is really really thin there. After I chipped the paint, carbon just fell apart. I am really not sure what to do here. I like the bike, but this experience does not bring me confidence in carbonda's warranty and replacement, nor the quality control. I would accept a discount at least, just as their sign of good faith and customer care. But they were resolute that this was a "crash" damage. LOL... I'm a bit mad tbh.

Yep, you got screwed by chinese cheese "carbon". Sorry man.

510mm axle to crown is a 100mm fork.
There is no such thing as a 190x35mm shock.

Check press fit bb shells with calipers and make sure its in spec. Check headset cups for structural integrity.

The gouge marks on the freehub happen when only one pawl locks into the teeth and there is an off center force on the axle. The axle flexes and pushes the freehub into the ratchet teeth. This will kill the bearing and crack the axle. One way to check this on a new hub is to rotate it slowly and listen for the teeth engaging. They should all engage at the same time. If they are too far apart, this will happen.

Looking at the geo, they steepened the seat tube (SC) without lengthening the top tube (O) so the riding position should be pretty cramped. 78 degrees for a 135mm bike is too steep.

Neat! I'm searching from for some 30mm internal diameter ones - seems they're the go to for pros doing marathon. I love the look of the new shimano XT hubs with straight pull - but most places only offer DT swiss.

For my marathon 29er I went with 25mm rear, 30mm front. Carbonfan T800 rims were 300g/360g. It works nicely.

You might notice that the frames are advertised as 27.5+/29er. There are some things that you can do to convert to 27 wheels - bigger fork, use 2.6" tires, use offset bushings in the shock, use shorter cranks. I'm using 170mm cranks (from 175mm), one offset bushing, 2.6 tires, and 130mm fork on a 29er spec'd for a 100mm fork. Just pay attention to the axle to crown length.