Chinertown
Other Resources => Component Deals & Selection => Topic started by: MTB2223 on July 06, 2014, 03:06:51 PM
-
Does someone has experience with plasti dip on his/her frame? And especially on a matte frame.
I want to put a design on my UD matte frame when it arrives. And Plasti Dip looks very nice.
-
I haven't put it on my frame but I have a couple of friends who have put it on their cars. What are your questions?
-
I've used it for costumes before. Have a can or two lying around somewhere here...
Agreed. Whatcha wanna know?
-
I want to know how it holds (on UD matte) and if it's easy to remove. I know it will on a glossy frame, but I think on a UD matte frame it will be a little different?
-
I am just guessing but my expectation would be that Plasti-dip would adhere to a matte finish frame just fine. I've seen people apply it to automotive alloy wheels then track the car, even under high temperatures it does not come off.
Removal is as easy as peeling it off by hand.
It really is amazing stuff. They even make a clear top coat you apply over the base coat for increased gloss and durability.
-
I am just guessing but my expectation would be that Plasti-dip would adhere to a matte finish frame just fine. I've seen people apply it to automotive alloy wheels then track the care, even under high temperatures it does not come off.
Removal is as easy as peeling it off by hand.
It really is amazing stuff. They even make a clear top coat you apply over the base coat for increased gloss and durability.
That's what I thought also. But in the color I want to use, matte red, there's a higher concentration of Tolueen (diluent) in it, than in other colors. Is this maybe a problem ?
I will apply a matte top coat. Don't want any glossy parts.
I think I'll do a little test on the bottom bracket cover :)
-
I've seen it applied to Corvette (Composite) body panels without issues but there was an automotive clear coat on top of the composite material. However, I've not seen it applied to any carbon fiber. I would hope the clear topcoat on the carbon would protect from most solvents, Tolueen is a very strong solvent, hopefully it will not cause any problems.
-
I can't seem to find anything about interactions with toulene and carbon fiber from google searches that seems to mean much for this.
I'd agree... test it out on something that's not imporant first.
-
I did a little Plasti Dip on a carbon part of the frame.
When my XT group arrives, I will start building up my bike and look how the carbon holds underneath the Plasti Dip.
(http://s25.postimg.org/xbsxjdven/image.jpg)
-
The more I think about it, Plasti-Dip seems like it should be very benign. Anything you can just peel off later, can't be too bad for most any surface.
Looking forward to seeing the final result.
-
The more I think about it, Plasti-Dip seems like it should be very benign. Anything you can just peel off later, can't be too bad for most any surface.
I agree. But here in the Netherlands, there is a webshop selling Plasti Dip. But they only sell red matte Plasti Dip to business consumers, not you and me. This is because there's a higher concentration of Tolueen. And red matte is just the one I want :)
So, I was wondering what would be the impact on the carbon for this 'high concentrated Tolueen' color. I think it's not a problem.
And I'm not in a hurry to build my bike (still waiting for some parts), so, I've some time to test :)
-
Very interested in seeing how this turns out.
You painting all one solid color or some type of design?
-
You painting all one solid color or some type of design?
I'm going for a design. And under the down tube maybe an area to protect the frame.
-
Any updates on this? Photos of how the Plasti-Dip came out?
-
I tried to make a nice design, but it's a hell of a job. There're eight layers of plastidip needed to cover up the frame nicely. After every two layers, I've to remove the design tape, let it dry, put tape on again, spray two layers, remove tape, dry, tape on again, etc. It's a very secure job.
Made a mistake, didn't remove the tape after two layers, the plastidip sticks on the tape and I damaged the design when removing the tape. So, I could start over again.
So, it's on hold for the moment ...
-
I tried to make a nice design, but it's a hell of a job. There're eight layers of plastidip needed to cover up the frame nicely. After every two layers, I've to remove the design tape, let it dry, put tape on again, spray two layers, remove tape, dry, tape on again, etc. It's a very secure job.
Made a mistake, didn't remove the tape after two layers, the plastidip sticks on the tape and I damaged the design when removing the tape. So, I could start over again.
So, it's on hold for the moment ...
Wow, that sounds pretty epic. Glad I'm not planning on any designs!
-
Hi all
I'm also interested in using Plasti Dip for my frame
I've just bought a FM196 UD Matte frame, but I've to admit that the color is not what I expected
all the frames I've seen look black and mine is closer to a brown color than black..
"UD Matte" may be this type of dark brown color, but it's not what I saw.. most of the frame really look blak
Plast Dip looks a good alternive to paint the frame.. if for any reason (warranty return for example...) I want to change back to the origin, I would have just need to take it off
with a normal paint.. that would be another story...
do you have an example of your paint to show?
thx in advance
-
Sorry, I don't have a example of the painting. I removed it.
But it's easier to do your hole frame then making a design like I did.
-
hi
thanks for the reply
how many "minimum" plasti dip layers is need to be able to remove it easily?
I did a try with 2, and I thought I could remove it in 1 piece but.... no
so I guess there is a minimum nb of layers to have a good result
-
I thought it was 3 or 4 layers. With 1 or 2 you have to rub of the remainder.
For a good result, I needed 8 layers of red plasti dip.
-
thanks
;)
-
I thought it was 3 or 4 layers. With 1 or 2 you have to rub of the remainder.
For a good result, I needed 8 layers of red plasti dip.
I haven't done a frame yet, but in playing around with plasti dip on other things, I can confirm that the 3-4 layers is pretty much spot on. More is merrier, sure, but if your layers are thick enough, 3-4 should be perfect.
-
I did my snow tires & wheels a few months ago. Can confirm at least 4 coats, and when you put them on do very thin layers or else you get runs. Would be cool to see it on a frame, but can't see how you'd be able to do a design (like MTB2223 found) - single color scheme would be best. You could probably paint over the plasti-dip with something else, but would have to research it first.
-
I did my snow tires & wheels a few months ago. Can confirm at least 4 coats, and when you put them on do very thin layers or else you get runs. Would be cool to see it on a frame, but can't see how you'd be able to do a design (like MTB2223 found) - single color scheme would be best. You could probably paint over the plasti-dip with something else, but would have to research it first.
I've ordered up a "Boris The Evil Brut Sprung" fat bike, and one of the first things I think I'm going to do when it arrives is several coats of white base with a blaze orange top coat finished with a gold flake clear. So you'll get to see how a whole frame comes out pretty soon. Might do vinyl decals over it to "rebrand" it to something else.
Ultimate plan if I really like fat biking is swap out the Al frame for something like the IP-N019 carbon fatty frame. :D
-
You could probably paint over the plasti-dip with something else, but would have to research it first.
I'd imagine the results would be similar to the first section of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvkq-qyY9aY
Sticks but makes pealing a lot harder, also if the paint layer is too brittle it could crack on impact as the softer plasti-dip underneath it flexes.
-
You could probably paint over the plasti-dip with something else, but would have to research it first.
I'd imagine the results would be similar to the first section of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvkq-qyY9aY
Sticks but makes pealing a lot harder, also if the paint layer is too brittle it could crack on impact as the softer plasti-dip underneath it flexes.
I missed that comment - I've actually got some experience here. I used plasti-dip on my phone case to shoot it the same white/blaze orange/gold flake clear that I'm planning for the bike. Looked great, was very happy with it - but the gold flake clear top coat is _STICKY_. I mean, if I was using this stuff for a tool handle (as it was originally intended!) it'd be awesome, but putting the phone into a pocket and getting it back out was a real pain in the ass because it was so grippy. So I shot one coat of a standard high gloss clear paint (not plasti dip) over it, let that dry, and that fixed the stickiness. The edges had been peeling a little, but the back was still intact, so to see if my results matched the ones in the video, I just peeled it off completely. Although it didn't have that super stretchiness that it usually has (thanks no doubt to the top coat of conventional clear) it peeled off in one large sheet with no problems. Note that he did say that he shot 3-4 coats of standard clear over the plasti dip, that might have contributed to his problems getting it off. I only needed the one.
-
That's useful info, I was planning on using gold metaliser, might be worth waiting for the new gloss topcoat, is apparently much more glossy and from the DYC videos the higher the gloss the more slippery the finish.
-
That's useful info, I was planning on using gold metaliser, might be worth waiting for the new gloss topcoat, is apparently much more glossy and from the DYC videos the higher the gloss the more slippery the finish.
Speaking of DYC I just got a new (to me) car and am kicking around the idea of doing stripes with plasti dip. Easy as hell to try and easier to give up and peel them off if it looks like ass. Just need better tape - the 3M blue I've got resulted in a surprisingly rough edge, looked like some dip was getting under the tape.
-
Try the green frog tape. I used it recently for the first time while painting a bedroom for the wife and the edges were unbelievably crisp.
-
Try the green frog tape. I used it recently for the first time while painting a bedroom for the wife and the edges were unbelievably crisp.
Funny, I saw that when I was in the auto parts store the other day and thought it looked like it was worth a try. Now I'll go back and get it - thanks!
-
Reviving the dead-ish thread.
That green frog tape worked like a BOSS, thank you Vipassana!! ;D
Also decided to finally shoot the fat bike hunter's orange since it's hunting season on our trails, and it's looking pretty awesome. Check out my fat bike project (http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,492.msg8511.html#msg8511) page for photos and links to the album.
-
Glad to hear the tape worked. I just bought another role last weekend. Good stuff.