Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29er => Topic started by: blueducati on October 28, 2014, 01:45:47 PM
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I posted before about finding a source for the frame, and since now that is on order, I figure I'll start a build thread. I apologize ahead of time, I'm a roadie building his first MTB, so a lot of this is new to me and I could be way off on some of this stuff (hopefully nothing I've already bought). I built 2 road bikes and 1 TT bike, so I'm hoping I have enough experience that actually putting it together will be easier than picking stuff out.
Here is the start of my build list, I don't have everything figured out yet, but since I'm building this over the winter, I think I have time to figure it out and be choosy. I want this bike to be a bit different, and I want to do it on a relative budget, since I still race road bikes and that is my primary focus. Weight isn't as big a driver as is cost and durability.
UPDATED: 11/4
Frame: IP-256SL 17.5 BB30, 142X12, UD Matte - (Ordered - iPlay)
Fork: 2013 Marzocchi Corsa SL RC 29 - (Ordered - ebay)
Headset: NECO / Iplay - (Ordered - iPlay)
F Wheel: ?? Plan to find something on ebay
R Wheel: ??Plan to find something on ebay
Stem: ??Wait until frame arrives to choose size
Bars: ??Pick one from LBS
Grips: ??Pick one from LBS
Groupset: SRAM X9 1X10, Wolf Tooth Chainring, X7 Trigger Shifter
Brakes: Magura Next MT5
Rotor: Magura Storm SL
Seatpost: Ritchey comp?
Clamp: Vakind Blue
Pedals: Crank Brothers Candy 3 Blue
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Good choice, the 256 frame is great fun to ride.
Since you are still in doubt. One of the things I'm most happy is the 1X set.
I took the rather expensive XX1, but there are clearly alternative options.
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Good choice, the 256 frame is great fun to ride.
Since you are still in doubt. One of the things I'm most happy is the 1X set.
I took the rather expensive XX1, but there are clearly alternative options.
I'm glad you brought that up. I'd love to go 1X, it really seems to simplify things, and it would be nice to lose that FD. But man, that XX1 stuff is expensive. I'd have to figure out how to do it another way.
My main hesitation is that I'll be riding with a bunch of guys that are running 2X setups, and I want to make sure I can hang in with them when riding on the flat rail trails / dirt roads around here. Do you find that your gearing is sufficient so that you never spin out?
Thanks for the help!
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So after doing some reading. (http://oldglorymtb.com/how-to-build-mountain-bike-1x-drivetrain-made-easy-1x9-1x10-1x11/)
According to this, if I go SRAM X9 Type 2 RD, I can run a cheap cassette (PG1070), and then get a Wolf Tooth Ring (and maybe a chain guide) and I should be ok.
Question for the group, has anyone built a 256SL with BB30? I saw the drawing for the frame, and it looks like the bottom bracket shell is 92mm wide, not 73 that would indicate BB30. Am I missing something? I'm not sure which BB I need to buy. Thanks-
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I built 3 BB30 IP-256s. I will measure the BB width if I remember tonight. I seem to recall it being 68mm wide, bit don't quote me on that.
Of the three, two had creaking in the bottom bracket with a normal greased up bearing install. One was/is quiet. With the two noisy ones, the Loc-tite fix you read about on the forums seemed to do the trick to silence them. I would recommend doing the Loc-tite from the get go.
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If I remember right, you built yours with xx1, so I'm guessing you used the normal SRAM PF30 BB. But yeah, if you can measure that would be a big help! Thanks!
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Hi 7,
I'm pretty sure it will be a 68mm shell. (But let others confirm !!) IF you ordered the BB30 it will be a standard BB30 not PF.
Something like this :
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/sram-bb30-bb-assembly-kit-alloy-bearings/rp-prod40333
I installed the SRAM BB30 and it hasn't creaked yet. However it seems that one of the bearings is already a bit crunchy !
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Oh, thanks for clearing that up, I think you just saved me some money! I thought I had read that PF was just a different nomenclature for a "PressFit" BB30. I just found a better description and you are certainly right, they fit into different shell diameters. http://wheelsmfg.com/bb30-vs-pf30
Pressing in a BB is new to me, the road frames I built had them installed already.
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So after doing some reading. (http://oldglorymtb.com/how-to-build-mountain-bike-1x-drivetrain-made-easy-1x9-1x10-1x11/)
According to this, if I go SRAM X9 Type 2 RD, I can run a cheap cassette (PG1070), and then get a Wolf Tooth Ring (and maybe a chain guide) and I should be okay
Type 2 clutch derailleur and a narrow wide chain ring and I think you can avoid the chain guide. The cheap cassettes though sometimes have fewer cogs connected onto a main carrier and if you have an aluminum freehub body you will gouge that more. For that reason I usually go for the XT cassette or the high end srams.
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Thanks for the tips snipe! Yeah, by "cheap" I meant not a $400 xx1 cassette!! I'll go with a decent SRAM one.
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amazing, XT which is the equivalent of x9 to XO in SRAM is cheap in comparison.
The XT cassette can be bought for 60ish US these days.....though, it is not particularly light.
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Picked up a pretty good deal on crank arms, shifters and a RD today. X9 RD and cranks, and x7 shifters. Since I'm going to go 1x10, I wanted just the crank arms so I could get a wolf tooth chain ring. I don't know if the RD is a type 2, but for 60 bucks for all that, I'll give it a try.
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q779/blueducati/MTB/1BEAA935-DD18-4D11-93DF-1EF4B32580B2_zpslwfmmnzb.png)
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That's a great deal!
What's your budget on the wheels?
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Haven't really put too much thought yet into wheels, maybe a couple hundred? I was hoping to find some sturdy tubeless ready ones on eBay. We have a Michigan Bike Classified Facebook page that has a lot of traffic so maybe I'll try there. I wasn't planning on the chinese carbon route, but I don't even know how much those are.
Any suggestions? I plan to ride this winter (if I can get it built in time) so I don't want something too nice. Like I mentioned before, since this if my first MTB, I want to go sturdy/low cost before I worry about weight. If I like this as much as I like road riding, maybe I'll get some carbon wheels in the future.
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I don't know if the RD is a type 2, but for 60 bucks for all that, I'll give it a try.
I'm not as well versed in the SRAM parts, but sure looks like the type 2 - you can see the extra button slightly to the lower right of the jockey pulley cage pivot which locks the derailleur forward for wheel changes. Think you totally scored on that one!
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cmh- looks like you have a great eye! I zoomed in on one of the other photos an it is labeled type 2. Made my day! Now I gotta find some great deals on some wheels.
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q779/blueducati/MTB/325E05C7-FDBC-4D04-AD40-46463003D93B_zpshssgaiiz.png)
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cmh- looks like you have a great eye! I zoomed in on one of the other photos an it is labeled type 2. Made my day! Now I gotta find some great deals on some wheels.
I'd say it should make your day! You got the parts you needed for about what I just paid for an XT Shadow Plus derailleur. (by itself) :D
Don't know if the type of the cranks is listed, and I can't really tell if that's a BB30 or GXP crank, (looks BB30, I think) but if it's a GXP, you can get a conversion kit to run it with your BB30 frame.
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Again, your eye is impeccable. They are BB30 cranks. I just hope everything is in pretty good shape. He said it came off of a `14 Spec Enduro, so I know they are only a year old. And I get a front shifter in case I ever want to go to 2x10.
Parts start rolling in this week (brakes on Monday, fork on Wednesday), so I'm pretty excited!
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Again, your eye is impeccable. They are BB30 cranks. I just hope everything is in pretty good shape. He said it came off of a `14 Spec Enduro, so I know they are only a year old. And I get a front shifter in case I ever want to go to 2x10.
Parts start rolling in this week (brakes on Monday, fork on Wednesday), so I'm pretty excited!
Sweet! Looking forward to seeing the build!
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Ok, parts are starting to roll in. I got word from Peter at iPlay that my frame is on the way, so in a few weeks I can probably get started. Here are some photos of the components I've got in so far, with their masses. Like I mentioned before, I'm really not trying to build a weight weenie, but in case someone else sees this thread and wants to know what parts weigh, I've got those logged. Fork shows up tomorrow, chainring is on order, then I have to find some wheels and head to the LBS and see what kind of handlebar/stem I want to use.
Vakind Seatpost Clamp
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q779/blueducati/MTB/IMG_5844_zps0479a819.jpg)
Crank brothers Candy 3 Pedals
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q779/blueducati/MTB/IMG_58664_zps3247af8e.jpg)
Magura MT5 Next Brakes (4 Piston) and bolts (uncut and filled)
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q779/blueducati/MTB/IMG_5853_zpsab568c30.jpg)
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q779/blueducati/MTB/IMG_5855_zps697455c9.jpg)
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q779/blueducati/MTB/IMG_5849_zps24f2e876.jpg)
Magura Storm SL Rotors (160) and bolts
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q779/blueducati/MTB/IMG_5846_zps9731b526.jpg)
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q779/blueducati/MTB/IMG_5847_zpse6cd6668.jpg)
And then finally my big ebay deal, SRAM x7 shifter, X9 Type2 RD and X9 crank, all for $61. The parts were a bit dirtier than I had hoped, and the RD has some paint missing, but everything seems to function ok.
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q779/blueducati/MTB/IMG_5860_zps692b508e.jpg)
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q779/blueducati/MTB/IMG_5862_zps51ef2527.jpg)
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q779/blueducati/MTB/IMG_5859_zpsac6feade.jpg)
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q779/blueducati/MTB/IMG_5858_zpsffd8180b.jpg)
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q779/blueducati/MTB/IMG_5856_zps54b2dcc9.jpg)
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q779/blueducati/MTB/IMG_5857_zps3785935c.jpg)
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As a note, I have a thing for black/blue paint schemes, so I'm going to try and tie that in with this bike. I'm not sure if I will just use the matte black with some blue accents (seatpost collar, pedals), or do some kind of frame paint. I REALLY REALLY like Vipassana's orange and blue frame, especially the blue on the inside of the rear triangle, so I may try something like that.
This is my road bike, so I kinda want this MTB to have the same look.
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q779/blueducati/cervelo%20s2/5ac95bac-aac4-4df2-b2f6-53c99219d082_zpsbf14c509.jpg)
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Fork (uncut steerer, with axle)
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q779/blueducati/MTB/041304E6-D112-47FB-B948-91C10D5666C4_zpscesjonwf.jpg)
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q779/blueducati/MTB/9BCA0D87-4C69-4D9C-B7B9-D752B96EEE74_zpsf9xmhx7i.jpg)
Remote lockout
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q779/blueducati/MTB/F365D5C2-EB0B-4CD4-9E30-B2E04796CC48_zpsvlb5jlaq.jpg)
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The lockout is a nice touch.
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Bluedakati where did you get your fork? And how much did it cost?? I have a Marzocci Bomber on my Ip-036 and want to get one similar for my LTK 023.
Thanks!
Andy :-)
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Andy-
I bought it on ebay for ~$350. It was a certified Marzocchi dealer that was selling them, and it actually shipped right from Marzocchi. I can't get to ebay at work (thanks firewall), but I can find the link for you when I get home tonight.
-Steve
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That would be great, thanks Steve!
Andy
IP 036
LTK 023
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Andy-
Unfortunately, it looks like the listing is gone, but here is the link to the seller's profile, he's got a bunch of Marzocchi stuff on there. As a note, a lot of his stuff is "Make an Offer," so I offered $50 less than the listing and then we met in the middle. They ship free, so I figured that was worth it.
http://www.ebay.com/usr/gimgib
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It has arrived! 8)
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q779/blueducati/MTB/9FB05965-8CB3-447A-B383-E0E3B0C7BA69_zpsnfsymw70.jpg)
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Nice! Really a winter build with that snow in the background. (where do you come from?)
Did the frame came without guidance hoses ?
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Frame looks good, weather does not :(.
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I'm in SE Michigan, and we just got a little bit the last few days. They got 3 or 4 inches on the west side of the state. I like the snow, but I've never ridden in it on purpose. Hopefully I can get this built before it gets too deep!
No, there were no cable guide hoses in the frame. Upon a first quick inspection, everything looks really good. A few little dimples here and there, but I think you'll get that from any frame mfg. Excited to get started.
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A few more updates. I picked up a cheap wheelset. I wanted something on the cheap side but still decent quality and wide. I found the WTB i25 rim with SLX hubs for $170 new at Jenson. 25mm inner width. A bit on the heavy side, and the hubs are centerlock so I'll need adapters, but will work while I learn how to do this MTB stuff. I've still got to pick up a cassette, chain, and seatpost.
A couple more weight updates:
Frame - 17.5 BB30 = 1111g
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q779/blueducati/MTB/706B8945-AB08-4E2E-9875-A690B6035449_zps5hto02ko.jpg)
Rear axle - 74g
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q779/blueducati/MTB/453C4D76-692A-475F-8257-4BAA02FAFBD3_zpsxiicuw2o.jpg)
Rear wheel - WTB i25 ST - 1207g
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q779/blueducati/MTB/FD1E3B8C-F76E-4839-93FD-466119CA7623_zps52jysv3t.jpg)
Front Wheel - WTB i25 ST - 1052g
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q779/blueducati/MTB/C98AF83F-4796-470A-BB08-D012A88AA881_zpsxcatwceb.jpg)
Chain ring - Wolf Tooth 32t- 48g
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q779/blueducati/MTB/8FDE2A40-7191-4E94-A2B6-75FEAC70EFD8_zpsloqnevwl.jpg)
Saddle- Selle Royal Seta (spare road saddle that came with my Cervelo) - 298g
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q779/blueducati/MTB/3BB7A44A-8DE6-4CDA-8AB0-DCC3F64E2A34_zpsrhcivcsi.jpg)
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I was poking around last night and dry fitting components together. Quick question for the guys who have built 256's, did your headset bearings drop right in, or did you need to press them in? The top (NECO) bearing drops right in, but the bottom won't. I'm leery about just pressing it in, so I thought I'd ask here before doing something dumb. Other options are to clean up the bottom "cup" in the frame or putting the bearing in the freezer for a bit to shrink it before greasing and installing.
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I don't have an IP-256 but for my IP-057 & IP-036 the bearing dropped in on both the upper and lower sides of the head tube. If you are pressing them in, I would think you have the wrong size bearing.
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The bearing OD is pretty much right on 52.0mm. The ID of the head tube is between 51.7 and 51.9, although it's tough to measure with calipers. I'll try cleaning up the inner surface and see if it drops in.
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I did press it.
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On my 256 the top dropped right in and I was able to press the bottom in with firm finger pressure.
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On my 256 both dropped in without any pressure. Put (a lot) grease around it, to 'seal' it for water.
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I used from 400 grit sandpaper and just cleaned out the bottom "cup" of the head tube, and now the bearing goes in with slight pressure. Thanks for letting me know that it should go in easy!
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They dropped in on the three 256s I built. Maybe there's a bit if paint in the cup. Lightly sand it out. Grease the beatings before putting them in the frame to avoid creaking noises.
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Making progress, still waiting for a few parts to finish up. It's hard to get a lot done, I've been only working on it when the kids are in bed. Thinking about taking the rim decals off, what do you think?
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q779/blueducati/MTB/DBFCAF08-0BCD-46E1-87D4-FE4FC2E522D9_zpsndqwpomt.jpg)
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Looking good.
I took the rim stickers off my Crest rims - just looks better towards the 'murdered out' look
With your white fork, I might leave them or get them painted/stickered to add to the white....so the fork isn't the only white piece.(there was a topic about getting the rims painted somewhere though they were talking about carbon ones)
Your whole wheelset was 170.00? or one wheel?
I see blue on your pedals, post lock and a blue head badge?
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Thanks for the reply.
I really like the way everyone's black chinese carbon rims look, so I'm leaning towards taking the stickers off. Yeah, the whole wheelset was 170. Probably not the lightest, but I wanted something wide (25mm inner width) and sturdy, so I figured going with a known brand (WTB rim, Shimano hub) would be a good idea. Plus, they were really cheap.
Here's the link, they are still on sale.
http://www.jensonusa.com/WTB-ST-I25-RimSlx-Hub-29-Wheelset#brm-search?request_type=search&search_type=keyword&q=wtb%20i25&l=wtb%20i25 (http://www.jensonusa.com/WTB-ST-I25-RimSlx-Hub-29-Wheelset#brm-search?request_type=search&search_type=keyword&q=wtb%20i25&l=wtb%20i25)
Yeah, blue Candy 3 pedals, blue seatpost clamp, and I'm having a blue headtube badge (decal) made up. What you see in that photo is a blue reflection from the TV. ;D
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Think I see an issue. Your SLX hubs are centerlock - meaning, I think, Shimano proprietary connection for brake discs. Your disc brakes will need an adapter since they are 6 bolt.
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Yeah, good eye. I bought and installed the adapters already. I got DT Swiss adapters, as they looked like the best set up. Most everything is installed now, I just have to install the chain, adjust the RD, and get the tire beads to seat. I had a really hard time last time I tried, even using a compressor. I figured letting the tires sit on the rims for a few days might stretch them out a bit. Tomorrow I'm going to try more soapy water and the compressor. After that, I should just have to go around and make sure everything is tight and lubed and I should be all set! Hopefully this weekend.
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my tires seated - 'popped' at about 40lbs pressure...only time I think it is ok to go over a bit
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Is there a trick to mounting these tubeless ready tires? I'm using WTB TCS Wolverines on WTB TCS rims. I've done soapy water and can't get the beads to seat, even with a compressor. The tires are extremely tight, I've broken 3 tire levers just trying to get them on. My hands are sore and my knuckles are all chewed up. I gave up the other night and installed a tube in the rear tire and got that inflated and it seems the beads are seated. With the front, when I was struggling with the front, I must have put some snakebite holes in the tube so it won't hold air. Now I have to wait until Monday when the shop opens to get a new tube and try again. Grrr this is so frustrating >:( . I've never had issues like this with road tires, and when I watch youtube videos, everyone makes it look so simple.
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I can tell you, I have been in the same boat and broke tire levers but eventually got them by going inch by inch with the tire lever. It sounds like you are doing everything right. I have never had to use compressor to get them seat.
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Once I had a tire that didn't want to seat.
After a similar moment of despair, I did put a strap along the circumference.
To squeeze the tire against the rim. But not too much as it needs to inflate.
Then some soapy water, and moving a bit the tire where the air was going out.
And don't worry about the sealant initially, or you'll get it everywhere.
You can deflate a seated tire, and put the sealant trough the valve.
And one last trick.
If you remove the valve's stem core, it allows a higher airflow into the tire.
Once it pops. Place the core back, and re-inflate.
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Is it a problem that I'm trying to seat the beads with no sealant? I read somewhere to do that, so it doesn't make a huge mess if you have to take the tire off and try again. I have the stans injector, so I was planning to seat the beads and then do the sealant.
I'll try the removable core thing, thanks!
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They may go soft in minutes and lose all the air in a matter of hours, but you should be able to pump the tire up and get it to seat with no sealant.
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All Done! Gotta put something on the chain stay and add some tape to protect from cable rub, then I should be good to go.
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q779/blueducati/MTB/A418604D-76C2-479D-9B42-DF8D06DD04DC_zpssoyg4qku.jpg)
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Very nice! The blue accents look great.
You have a final weight, yet?
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Congrats! Always nice to see a brand new, perfectly clean, Chiner!
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Thanks! I don't have a final weight yet. I still have to add sealant and then I'll try and get a final weight. I didn't go lightweight on the components (wheels and tires especially), so I'm guessing I'll be around 25 lbs.
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Nice build. Liking the small color accent in de pedals :)
Do you have 32t chainring? Will a 34 or 36 fit on an 256sl?
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Yeah, it is a 32. I've never tried anything bigger, but I will take a close up shot of the area for you when I get home from work, maybe put a scale behind it so you can see how much more room is there.
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All Done! Gotta put something on the chain stay and add some tape to protect from cable rub, then I should be good to go.
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q779/blueducati/MTB/A418604D-76C2-479D-9B42-DF8D06DD04DC_zpssoyg4qku.jpg)
Shiney ! Great job.
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Yeah, it is a 32. I've never tried anything bigger, but I will take a close up shot of the area for you when I get home from work, maybe put a scale behind it so you can see how much more room is there.
Thnx, coz 32t is to small in the Netherlands :) Otherwise I'll just ride with a double, but I would like 1x because of the weight.... :)
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Thnx, coz 32t is to small in the Netherlands :) Otherwise I'll just ride with a double, but I would like 1x because of the weight.... :)
If you go for a double, you need a SRAM XX S2 direct mount down pull front derraileur. The Shimano XT works, but doesn't very nice.
See http://chinertown.com/index.php?topic=296
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Just got back from my initial ride, not just on this bike, but my first MTB ride ever. Man, what a lot of fun, and so different than riding on the road. I rode from my house to the State Park trailhead, which is about 2 miles on a mix of paved and dirt roads. The trail was mostly covered in wet leaves, but also had some big mud puddles, some sandy sections, some rocks and roots. So it's a pretty good mix of terrain I'd guess. I rode about 5 miles in there then had to get home, so it was a pretty quick ride.
Overall MTB'ing Impressions: It was a different kind of fun than riding on the road. I feel like the road is more "sophisticated" fun, if that makes sense. Maybe it's not the right word. Going fast, carving corners, being smooth etc... On the MTB I felt like a kid again. Smashing through puddles, bouncing over rocks and roots, getting completely filthy. I can totally see how people leave the road and just do MTB, its more relaxed and just more carefree. I still enjoy the speed and group riding / racing of the road a lot, so I plan to keep doing them both, best of both worlds! I do need to adjust my riding for the trail, though. On a couple of short, steep climbs on wet leaves, I stood up and immediately lost traction in the rear and just spun my tire. Need to remember to stay seated and get that traction. My wrist is a little sore from the different hand position of the flat bar, so I'm hoping I'll get used to that.
On the bike: Again, I don't have any other comparisons, but the bike felt great. I had to stop a few times and adjust my saddle position (it's weird feeling so upright on a bike) and both of my rotors are rubbing slightly. Oh, and I need to bleed the rear brake, it was pretty much useless. I ran around 28-30 psi in my tires, which was good on the trail. On the roads, I felt like the low pressure was slowing me down. Maybe that's a difference I need to get used to. On the road bike, I feel like I need to go as fast as I can all the time, maybe on the MTB, I should just relax and enjoy it. The bike surprised me how nimble it was, it turned a lot quicker than I thought it would, and it did feel really light out there (even though my bike is probably one of the heavier 256's). The 1x10 worked awesome, no drops. I did cut my chain too short, so I couldn't use the big cog. There were a couple spots it would have been nice to have, but I didn't have to get off and walk. I would say that the best thing I bought on this bike was the remote lockout. I must have locked out the fork a couple dozen times during my ride.
Finally, a question on the fork. Should I be using all of my travel? I felt like I only used about 50% of it. When I raced motorcycles, we used to put zip ties on the forks to see how much travel you used and then you'd adjust it to make sure you are using most of your travel. Is that something MTB'ers do too? If so, and I'm not using all of my travel, what do I do, take some air out of the fork?
Thanks!
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q779/blueducati/MTB/745B35CE-D332-433A-9C91-E69C8A733AC7_zpsa2mmwlbe.jpg)
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q779/blueducati/MTB/E8F3802A-6F10-47CF-87E8-4426A5D18E1A_zpsveomalaf.jpg)
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Another few noon questions:
1- do you guys clean your bike after a muddy ride like this? I'd clean my road bike, but it's rare that it gets that muddy. Not sure if you guys clean them only to get dirty again.
2- is it bad etiquette to ride trails when they are so soft? I don't want to ruin the trail or anything.
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Nice to see you have so much fun on a MTB in such short trip.
1 - I always clean my chain and the fd and rd. and most of the time the complete bike. Don't like to start on a dirty bike.
2 - No, it's not bad etiquette to ride the trail when they are soft, muddy and wet. In the Netherlands it's not a problem. Our trails are never closed.
About the travel: if you use 99% of your travel, that's perfect. Same as on your motorcycle.
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Congrats on the first ride! Bike looks great. A few followup items:
1) Check out MMBA.org - huge forum with constantly updated trail conditions. Don't worry too much about riding in the mud. Personally, I don't do it just because of the cleaning PITA.
2) Fork travel - does your fork have a rubber o-ring on one of the damper rods? It serves exactly the same purpose as your zip tie.
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Thanks guys. I washed my bike yesterday afternoon. It was a little painful since it was so cold. In fact, the water froze on the bike before I got a chance to dry it off.
I'll put a zip tie around my fork (I didn't see an o-ring on there..) and see how much travel I use. I'm planning on going out tomorrow again, however I tried to bleed my rear brake and I found that my the special bleed screw (Magura calls it an EBT screw) on the lever is stripped. It's a plastic screw that has a torque requirement of 0.5Nm, so I must have over-torque'd it. I think it's letting air in, because I did a full bleed and the rear still isn't working very well. I have some new screws on order. I think it got the disc rubbing issue fixed in the mean time.
Other than that, the front brake is super powerful, I really like it. I rarely use my rear anyways, again a carryover from motorcycle racing.
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As others said, I try to clean the moving bits, but I try to keep it shiny and clean, not toothbrush clean as some do.
As for riding in the mud, when I lived in New England we rode anytime. In southern California we are more careful because the ground doesn't hold water well in places. Some turn into full on clay that will stick on anything, literally doubling the size of tires until they won't turn, if you step down, then your shoes are clayed up and you cant get in peddles. So yeah in SoCal its not always good to ride when its wet.
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I clean and lube the chain every ride for the most part. Since we're mostly dusty out here I'll blow the bike off with the air compressor frequently. Maybe once a month I'll do a tooth brush cleaning. Part of me wants to keep the carbon parts clean so I can look for any cracks or defects.
Congrats on the build, BTW. It will be a great ride and it will serve you well.
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Another few noon questions:
1- do you guys clean your bike after a muddy ride like this? I'd clean my road bike, but it's rare that it gets that muddy. Not sure if you guys clean them only to get dirty again.
2- is it bad etiquette to ride trails when they are so soft? I don't want to ruin the trail or anything.
1- after a muddy ride like that...I do clean off the bike. After some recent rain in So Cal, the bike did get a bit muddier than usual. My GF went through the grand daddy of mud puddles...I spent a decent amount of time cleaning it off. :o
2- depending on the amount of rain...I'll typically wait 2 or 3 days after the rain stops. While it can be fun to ride in the mud...it sucks to clean off the bikes when they get that dirty. I say "bikes"...I have to clean my GF's bike too.
Sometimes its frowned upon to ride right after a rain around here. Depending on where you go...riding in the mud can really tear up the trails.
Oh...nice ride BTW! ;D