Chinertown
Other Resources => Component Deals & Selection => Topic started by: JJJ on September 29, 2021, 03:08:15 AM
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I ordered a pair of these Goldix GDX-240EXP:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003014289678.html
A very close clone of the DT's, except for the spoke offset values. I received them pretty fast and still need to mount them. They look pretty well made, anyway. I'm wondering if the DT torque caps fit...
Anyone tried them already?
Similar clones are Venfort PRO4, with a large range of colors:
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005003156428664.html
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Very interesting !
I am curious about the build quality, long term logevity and also the noise level !
Did you found some reviews ?
Please post you review here ! :)
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I bought a pair of Road Hubs here:
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005003334898387.html
Will see how they are!
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I have two ZTTO 190 54t star ratchet hubs on the bench waiting to be built up.
J-Bend
Ordered a Venfort Boost 36t Hub for my Koski Bomber. Also J bend... Ha the "pro 4" logo looks just like the Hope. I guess imitation is the highest form of flattery.
Will give updates once I get some miles on them.
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The ztto 54t ratchets in the M1 hubs fail….it is known
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The ztto 54t ratchets in the M1 hubs fail….it is known
Sources? I read that 54T ratchets were unreliable in general, even the original DTs, because the teeth are very shallow and sensitive to dirt or even too much (or too thick) grease. The DT 240EXPs even had a premature wear problem, and offer an upgrade kit (https://www.dtswiss.com/en/ratchet-exp-maintenance-notice). That's why I went for the 36T and not the 54 or 60T.
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i also want to share my experience, bought a pair of Velosa wheels with OEM hubs, DT350 replica it seems, below some pictures.
the ratchet wheel was very bad, i had multiple occurrences of "jumps" over the teeth losing traction on the pedal and it's very dangerous in my opinion especially when climbing.
i replaced the ratchet with original DT swiss 54T and it's like reborn, luckily for me since i wouldn't like to swap the full hub honestly.
on the front wheel, the hub is ok when mounted in the fork, but it has some loose when unmounted.
BTW can you see in the picture the bearing sitting inside the XD body? should i also change bearing in your opinions?
thanks!
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But ZTTO is not the same than this Goldix right? I didn´t receive them yet.
Also the replica 350 are not the same, they look more like ZTTO.
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I received the hubs, they look very good! Even one bearing (only one, I don´t know why) is from NTN. The others are from NRW.
My model is GDR310 so, no EXP240 version. The weight was 319, so very good, close to DT 240 in terms of weight.
Do you know any official website for this Goldix brand?
These are some pictures:
The most particular thing, from my point of view, is the red parts. The last one is like a lock ring to keep the spring in the correct position. This is missing in the DT Swiss desing. I think that these red parts are adding a bit of weight, this 10 grams of difference:
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=7959;image)
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=7961;image)
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=7965;image)
Freehub pictures:
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=7963;image)
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=7969;image)
NTN bearing:
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=7971;image)
Hub general pictures:
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=7967;image)
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Did you get a picture of the mating faces of the two gold parts?
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No, I don´t know how to dismantle this red part. But it looks to me two pieces like the old DT Swiss ratchet.
Hub geometry:
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=7975)
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I asked because it is that face that is failing in the knock off hubs. You might want to contact the seller and ask for instructions on how to dismantle it so that you can replace those parts if they fail, which hopefully they won't.
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I just dismantle, some more pictures:
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=7990;image)
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=7992;image)
Red parts:
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=7996;image)
Spring retention ring:
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=7994;image)
Ratchet rings:
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=7998;image)
I will compare with my DT350 hub that I have already... just to see if they are compatible like everybody says.
it could be good, DT replacements are easy to find.
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Nice work.
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Thanx you ultreia.
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Regarding the original manufacturer, could it be https://www.yuananbike.com/product/yar-m14-mtb-hub-ratchet-system-center-lock-boost-axle-hub?
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DT350 freehub and ratchet rings are fully compatible with this Goldix GDR-310.
About Yuanan, I am not sure if it is the real factory. For one Goldix MTB MH14, could be for this road hub I couldn´t find in their website.
Bearings:
Front hub: 2x6902
Rear hub: 2x6902 (hub body) + 2x6802 (freehub)
In comparison with a DT 350 hub, the freehub also have 6902 bearings. In a sense, more reliable.
Some weight comparison of freehub and ratchet rings:
Goldix freehub - 44 grams
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=8010;image)
DT freehub - 62 grams
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=8016;image)
Goldix ratchet rings- 14 grams
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=8014;image)
DT ratchet rings - 23 grams
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=8012;image)
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So except the bearing size which is different, the Goldix GDR-310 is a perfect copy of the DT350?
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In terms of geometry are similar but not the same.
Also DT350 weights around 360
DT240 EXP weights around 310
And this hubset weights around 320, so in terms of weight they are more similar to DT 240 (internals are quite equal in 240 and 350).
About bearings, freehub are different, compatible but Goldix freehub uses 6802 bearings and DT 6902 bearings (in old ratchet). Comparing with DT 240 EXP, this are a bit better, it uses 1526 (15 x 26 x 7 mm) bearings, so bigger ball race than 6802, so we assume that they have longer life.
In terms of bearings lasting 6902 > 1526 (15 x 26 x 7 mm) > 6802... theoretically.
Just a note: Goldix front hub uses 6902 and I think that it could be enough to use 6802 in this case and this will save some grams.
DT240 EXP front hub 24 holes center lock -> 104 grams
Goldix GDR310 front hub 24 holes center lock -> 113 grams
DT240 EXP rear hub 24 holes center lock -> between 204-210
Goldix GDR310 rear hub 24 holes centerl lock -> 206 grams
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I ordered a pair of these Goldix GDX-240EXP:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003014289678.html
A very close clone of the DT's, except for the spoke offset values. I received them pretty fast and still need to mount them. They look pretty well made, anyway.
OK, I've tested them now on a few rides with long ascents (600+ m) with steep technical portions (the kind of terrain I thought could break the ratchet teeth). Everything good so far, and confidence inspiring.
They make a helluva noise. But that is known. At least the hikers are warned of my arrival. Don't need a bell, just stop pedaling ;-)
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i also want to share my experience, bought a pair of Velosa wheels with OEM hubs, DT350 replica it seems, below some pictures.
the ratchet wheel was very bad, i had multiple occurrences of "jumps" over the teeth losing traction on the pedal and it's very dangerous in my opinion especially when climbing.
i replaced the ratchet with original DT swiss 54T and it's like reborn, luckily for me since i wouldn't like to swap the full hub honestly.
on the front wheel, the hub is ok when mounted in the fork, but it has some loose when unmounted.
Well, you seem to have been unlucky. I didn't want to go for the 54T, because I read they were sensitive to dirt and even too much (or too thick) grease, even the original DTs. I went for the 36T, and they are fine so far.
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They make a helluva noise. But that is known. At least the hikers are warned of my arrival. Don't need a bell, just stop pedaling ;-)
The noise they make is like this (pick your number of teeth):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qidu3rvJqCA
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OK, I've tested them now on a few rides with long ascents (600+ m) with steep technical portions (the kind of terrain I thought could break the ratchet teeth). Everything good so far, and confidence inspiring.
They make a helluva noise. But that is known. At least the hikers are warned of my arrival. Don't need a bell, just stop pedaling ;-)
About noise, I saw in my GDR310 that there is no much grease in the ratchet, so it could be the reason for the loud noise.
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About noise, I saw in my GDR310 that there is no much grease in the ratchet, so it could be the reason for the loud noise.
The noise is perfectly normal, and the small amount of grease too. Put too much grease in the ratchet, and it will fail, because the teeth on the two rings will not mate properly, the grease getting in the way.
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I have the Venfort "Pro4" version of this hub.
Front is perfect, about 500km so far not a single issue.
Rear is about 100km and is also good, except when I stripped it down after 30km or so to make sure everything looked ok. The inner ratchet had jammed into the body. I managed to get it out by tapping the backside with a drift I made using an old screwdriver. I contacted Venfort who told me that the ratchet is inner/outer specific. Although there is no visual indication of this at all. I swapped the ratchet pieces around and have had no further jamming issues though.
As for sound, I ride with a guy that has a DT 360 with 36T ratchet, this hub sounds identical. The hub does have a slight "off centre" sound which makes the volume rise and fall slightly, noticeable when riding but not to a spectator.
The hub came with a spare set of driver bearings also which is nice.
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Hi, these hubs looks good for my new custom wheelset, but I have one question: is there the same brake rotor offset as in DT 350? I wonder because I will use two wheel sets from time to time, and adjusting the calliper everytime is quite annoying. I have this kind of "problem" in my road/gravel bike using DT and RYET hubs. Did anyone compared the two (DT, Goldix) ?
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I bought a pair of Goldix GDX 370 hubs on AliExpress. The first time I tried to mount a brake rotor on the front hub, the threads stripped out of 2 of the 6 bolt holes! I contacted the vendor, they asked for pictures, I sent them, they told me it was my fault.
Fortunately no such problem with the rear... but I'm not expecting the 36T star ratchet to last very long, after the experience with the stripped rotor holes.
DO NOT BUY FROM GOLDIX.
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That's why I use centerlock :) I forgot to mention that my rotor offset differences were on CL hubs.
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That's why I use centerlock :) I forgot to mention that my rotor offset differences were on CL hubs.
over 20 carbon wheelsets here - most all all DT350 hubs - all 6 bolt. Never stripped out one even after repeated rotor swaps.
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I am very happy with my Goldix at this moment.
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too bad they aren't produce 6 bolts version in this exp240.
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Anyone know Ali has parts that are compatible parts with genuine DT stuff? I have a couple of wheels i picked up second hand (Roval and Bontrager) with missing free hubs (think it was 3 pawl) an axle and end caps and i'm too cheap to buy genuine. Would be good to find some bits for them :)
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Lots of buyers of the star ratchet clones have had success substituting actual DT Swiss parts for knockoff ratchets that failed. Presumably you could go the other way, but why?
I don't know if the pawl freehubs are close enough to swap.
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Please excuse my ignorance but what kind of benefits does an EXP style hub provide over a standard one? I'm really just looking for the absolute loudest hub out there and DT Swiss seems to consistently rank at or near the top
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Please excuse my ignorance but what kind of benefits does an EXP style hub provide over a standard one? I'm really just looking for the absolute loudest hub out there and DT Swiss seems to consistently rank at or near the top
The new style exp hubs have issues at the moment from what i've read. They only exist because the DT patient on the original star ratchet expired. Best avoided. 36 tooth two piece star ratchets are the most reliable design around as far as i know but they might not be as loud as the other versions with more teeth (i haven't tried them).
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I'm really just looking for the absolute loudest hub out there
Take a look at ARC mt009 (or mt006 if you need non-boost) hubs on aliexpress. They are using traditional design with 36 tooth ring and 6 pawls with 3 teeth on each. At every moment 3 of 6 pawls are engaged, so you'll get 5 degrees engagement and these hubs are loud as f##k.
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My Venfort did not last 50 miles. Ordered a Hope Pro 4 and have to rebuild my wheels, The Koozer DT clones I have in the shop seem much better made, going to try them out .
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My Venfort did not last 50 miles. Ordered a Hope Pro 4 and have to rebuild my wheels, The Koozer DT clones I have in the shop seem much better made, going to try them out .
Can you be please more specific what went wrong? Wasn't there a change to replace ratchet with original DT or ZTTO internals?
I am considering Venfort as new DT350 are not available and rebuilding wheels is kind of waste of quite some money....
Thanks a lot
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I submerged my Venfort hubs with the (dual) exp style ratchets in a creek and it started to slip. I replaced the springs and normal/old style 36pt "DT ratchets" from my Koozer clones and things are good so far. The machining on the exp style ratchets may have been the issue, I suspect one of the ratchet rings was not moving in the channels. Ordered another set of the old style 36pt ratchets from aliexpress as backups.
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The machining on the exp style ratchets may have been the issue, I suspect one of the ratchet rings was not moving in the channels.
Not saying this is what happened to you, but when I serviced my Venfort hub one of the rings was stuck, I reached out to venfort who advised that the rings are actually handed, when I got the stuck ring out I reversed their position and have had no further issues. I cannot see any physical difference between the rings, but I haven't done any measurements either. Have a heap of kms on them now, regularly racing and am happy with them.
The bearings in my front hub got noisy quickly so I swapped them out. The bearings had very little light grease in them.
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I've been thinking about building up a wheel set with the Goldix 240EXP hubs but am a bit concerned with the ratchet reliability. I'm a larger rider (210 lbs) and pour out a decent amount of power on some of the steep bits. How have the 36T ratchets been? Would it be worth swapping DT Swiss ratchets right away? Or bringing spares along when I ride?
Any other recommendations on light 148mm hubs?
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Goldix hubs are great. I’m a big dude and ride like a gorilla and break everything
36t ratchet is solid…I’ve blown up a LOT of hubs.
This is much more solid than the ztto hubs
I’ve been riding them for a year hard Mtb riding on a bike with high pedal kickback that blows up a lot of hubs this one is SOLID.
Bearings are a little cheap I expect I’ll need to replace the outboard bearing but these are cheap common and readily available .
They will also do custom logos for a reasonable price if you are not into gold Dix
I’ve hucked my bike to the point of exploding tires are rims and these hubs took it
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So I just received my Goldix 240 hubs yesterday. Very fast shipping, only 10 days to California. (I ordered from the Goldix store on Ali)
The hubs look really nice and the rear hub feels smooth. However, the front hub feels notched, as if one or both bearings are damaged. I reported this to Goldix and they suggested "adding more lube oil" which I don't think is a valid solution.
Given that the factory bearings aren't great to begin with, should I push them for replacements, or just go ahead and order higher quality replacements? I'm still waiting on rims and need to order spokes, so no hurry yet.
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Given that the factory bearings aren't great to begin with, should I push them for replacements, or just go ahead and order higher quality replacements? I'm still waiting on rims and need to order spokes, so no hurry yet.
Why bother with replacements that are potentially just as bad? I’d suggest getting the higher quality bearings for peace of mind.
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If I understood the earlier posts correctly, the Goldix 240EXP front hubs use 6902 bearings and the rear hubs use 6802 bearings, correct?
How do you remove the freehub? It appears to just pull off, like the DT Swiss hubs, but mine won't budge.
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I have many experiences with Chinese ratchet hubs. Their built-in bearings are bad. Some are bad at first before use. Some became bad after using 2-3 months (600-900 km) and need to replace. I think their bearings are not water-resistant.
So, my suggestions are
- put lubricants before start using.
- and if it goes bad after using it for a while, replace it with a good-quality one. (Though you replaced new bearing, it still cheaper)
for 60t clone ratchet, I have no issue with so far.
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So anyone got any updates or experiences with Gold Dix road hubs? I'm thinking of trying to lace my own wheel for the first time and wondering if this is a good place to start.
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I can recommend the Novatec hubs. About the same price as Goldix.
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I can recommend the Novatec hubs. About the same price as Goldix.
Which novatec hubs do you recommend? The 411/412 that I see for a lot of builds or something else? Also how much are you paying for the hub set?
I’m thinking I may just “splurge” and get a set of dt 350 straight pull. Seems like they can be found around $250CAD (180usd) and given that the goldix hubs will likely need bearing replacement in a short while there probably wouldn’t be too much savings.
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I have the 411/412 and the 791/792. Generally they are not that much different. The 411/412 are straightpull and lighter but the general build is about the same... I mostly buy on ali when there are sales but they are now about 95€ and 125€.
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I'm 2 for 3 on Novatec 792 driver failure. The internal ratchet/toothed ring in the hub shattered on 2 of the 3 wheelsets I built with them. Bother were replaced with DT350 hubs without issue. I will say they were 2014 vintage 792s so maybe the design has improved since then.
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I have the 771-772 hubs. Novatec is mix and match with a lot of their models. the qr, thru axles, hg/xd(r) hubs swap the same for 772, 792, and 412 for the hubs. The front 771 and 792 aren't the same. I haven't messed with my 411/412 enough to know what's all swap-able.
old little guide I found
http://www.nguide.eu/faq/evolution-d771sb-and-xd611sb
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I finally built up my wheels with the Goldix 240 hubs. I wasn't able to mount the brake rotor on the front wheel though. The Centerlock ring appeared to bottom out before the reaching the rotor. I never felt it engage the notches on the rotor and I could wiggle the rotor a bit. I tried a new Tektro rotor and the old Shimano rotor I had been using on my old wheelset and both had the same result. (On my old wheelset, with Shimano hubs, the notches engage shortly after the Centerlock ring becomes too tight to turn by hand.)
Anyone else run into an issue like this? Is this a defective hub, or are there workarounds?
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I finally built up my wheels with the Goldix 240 hubs. I wasn't able to mount the brake rotor on the front wheel though. The Centerlock ring appeared to bottom out before the reaching the rotor. I never felt it engage the notches on the rotor and I could wiggle the rotor a bit. I tried a new Tektro rotor and the old Shimano rotor I had been using on my old wheelset and both had the same result. (On my old wheelset, with Shimano hubs, the notches engage shortly after the Centerlock ring becomes too tight to turn by hand.)
Anyone else run into an issue like this? Is this a defective hub, or are there workarounds?
A picture of the problem would help.
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It appears that the anodizing on the front hub was causing the issue. I tried screwing in the lock ring without the rotor and it became difficult to turn well before it was screwed in all the way. I tightened and untightened it a few times and was able to get it farther in, so I think it just needed to clear the threads. I was able to tighten the rotor down, but I'll put a paint witness mark so I can see if it works loose.
No issues with the rear hub.
Now I just need to wait for the longer valve stems. I'm very eager to test out my first wheels and see how much of difference they make!
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Hello, do you know if it does exist in 32 holes?
Thanks
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It appears that the anodizing on the front hub was causing the issue. I tried screwing in the lock ring without the rotor and it became difficult to turn well before it was screwed in all the way. I tightened and untightened it a few times and was able to get it farther in, so I think it just needed to clear the threads. I was able to tighten the rotor down, but I'll put a paint witness mark so I can see if it works loose.
No issues with the rear hub.
Now I just need to wait for the longer valve stems. I'm very eager to test out my first wheels and see how much of difference they make!
I had the same problem! Luckily I was building my wheels at the college bike shop and the grizzled tech there just got me a longer wrench and encouraged me to go for it. With a little more leverage I was able to fully tighten my front brake. Overall, the hubs looks good. I'll post after I put some miles on them.
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I have about 20 miles on the wheelset I built up with Goldix 240 hubs and elite rims. No issues with the hubs, and the wheels seem to be holding up pretty well so far. This was my first wheel build, so I'm taking it fairly easy on them for a bit.
I am enjoying the 920 g weight saving over my old rims though!
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I'm 2 for 3 on Novatec 792 driver failure. The internal ratchet/toothed ring in the hub shattered on 2 of the 3 wheelsets I built with them. Bother were replaced with DT350 hubs without issue. I will say they were 2014 vintage 792s so maybe the design has improved since then.
I built two wheelsets with 791/792 Novatecs. Bought them on Ali during the last two years. Both have been bulletproof so far. I like that they are easily convertible. One of the wheelsets has been used with thru axle and now it’s in a frame with QR dropouts. The other wheelset has been used with Shimano freehub. Then with Sram XDR and now with a Campagnolo N3W freehub and an Ekar groupset. This flexibility is a huge plus with Novatec hubs IMO. I have however had freehub bearings fail prematurely particularly on Novatec freehub bodies.
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I built up a 29er wheelset with the Venfort ratchet hubs. After replacing the original 60t ratchet (it failed) the wheels have been really good. Here is a video about my initial experience.
https://youtu.be/csFMpjkXg1Y (https://youtu.be/csFMpjkXg1Y)
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I built two wheelsets with 791/792 Novatecs. Bought them on Ali during the last two years. Both have been bulletproof so far. I like that they are easily convertible. One of the wheelsets has been used with thru axle and now it’s in a frame with QR dropouts. The other wheelset has been used with Shimano freehub. Then with Sram XDR and now with a Campagnolo N3W freehub and an Ekar groupset. This flexibility is a huge plus with Novatec hubs IMO. I have however had freehub bearings fail prematurely particularly on Novatec freehub bodies.
Same here... I have built several wheelsets with the 411/412 and 791/792 hubs and I am quite happy with them, certainly given the price. You have to keep an eye on the bearings, yes, but they are easy to replace. Replacement parts and body are easy to find (the Novatec site and Ali) and are quite cheap.
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How much are y’all paying for the novatec hubs? I’m seeing ~$210 CAD on alix for the 411/412 which is about $40-50 cheaper then dt 350. Once you factor in the likelihood that the bearing won’t last too long doesn’t it make more sense to get the dt 350? I guess the biggest downside to the dt 350 is the extra 100g.
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I paid 110eur for the last set I bought during the sales in November. It was with a HG body. XD will be more expensive
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I bought an original dt350 CL boost and it weights 219 grams, SRAM XD . Are you sure there's extra weight compared to D412?
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How much are y’all paying for the novatec hubs? I’m seeing ~$210 CAD on alix for the 411/412 which is about $40-50 cheaper then dt 350. Once you factor in the likelihood that the bearing won’t last too long doesn’t it make more sense to get the dt 350? I guess the biggest downside to the dt 350 is the extra 100g.
When I bought the 791/792, they were about 80 EUR per set on Ali. I think they're more expensive now. Either way, that's way cheaper than a set of DT350s. I wouldn't even get a rear hub for that money, let alone a complete set.
I only ever had trouble with the freehub bearings on Novatec hubs. But even those can be replaced for very little money. So I think they're definitely worth their money. DTs are bulletproof as well, however. If you're prepared to pay for them, that is. I got a set with 350s and they just last and last.
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I bought an original dt350 CL boost and it weights 219 grams, SRAM XD . Are you sure there's extra weight compared to D412?
I don't think they are heavier. A little more expensive, but I must say I have also been thinking of going that route
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When I bought the 791/792, they were about 80 EUR per set on Ali. I think they're more expensive now. Either way, that's way cheaper than a set of DT350s. I wouldn't even get a rear hub for that money, let alone a complete set.
I only ever had trouble with the freehub bearings on Novatec hubs. But even those can be replaced for very little money. So I think they're definitely worth their money. DTs are bulletproof as well, however. If you're prepared to pay for them, that is. I got a set with 350s and they just last and last.
Ya 80 EUR is a solid price for the set. I’m seeing about 110 EUR just for the rear dt 350 and another 40 EUR for the front. I’m just doing preliminary research on building my own wheels and hopefully in a few months I will actually do it. For those that are not building their own wheels and are paying a LBS to do the work, I would only go for the novatec hubs if the price difference is >100CAD (70EUR). Anything less and it doesn’t make much sense considering the reliability factor and cost to get a LBS to do the hub maintenance (~50-70CAD in my area).
I would also look out for some sales in the near future for the previous gen 350 hubs now that they finally released an updated version of the road hub 2 weeks ago.
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I don't think they are heavier. A little more expensive, but I must say I have also been thinking of going that route
I have a set of Velosa MTB wheels, with their own replica of a DT350. On the front i replaced bearings almost immediately.on the rear I put original DT ratchet because the one installed jumped over its teeth continuously, after 1 year i noticed the cassette was not straight when rotating, but an oscillating phenomenon was hurting gear shifts. Eventually i replaced the hub with the real one....but of course this is just my experience i guess novatec is far better than these replicas
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Any recommendations for budget hubs ticking following boxes: 11s shimano road compatible, 135mm QR, center lock preferred over 6 bolt. Looking to modernize my older CX frame.
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Any recommendations for budget hubs ticking following boxes: 11s shimano road compatible, 135mm QR, center lock preferred over 6 bolt. Looking to modernize my older CX frame.
BDOP Cycling-$170 for just the hubs or $350 as a DIY wheelset build kit
https://bdopcycling.com/hubs-xcross-2/ (https://bdopcycling.com/hubs-xcross-2/)
https://bdopcycling.com/product/bdop-diy-kit-alloy-road-disc-xi/ (https://bdopcycling.com/product/bdop-diy-kit-alloy-road-disc-xi/)
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Any recommendations for budget hubs ticking following boxes: 11s shimano road compatible, 135mm QR, center lock preferred over 6 bolt. Looking to modernize my older CX frame.
I am pretty sure the Novatec 411/412 can be run as a QR with the end caps. those tick all of your boxes and are super light and affordable (110-130$ for the pair)
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Hi all.
I'm looking for budget Boost hubs with MS and Centerlock.
Goldix M370 or Novatec? Novatec has a significant weight penalty but maybe reliable due to the pawl system vs the ratchet on the Goldix.
Any thoughts?
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Hi, why not ZTTO M1? I got the set one season and as far it looks OK. Little less weight than DT350.
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Hi all.
I'm looking for budget Boost hubs with MS and Centerlock.
Goldix M370 or Novatec? Novatec has a significant weight penalty but maybe reliable due to the pawl system vs the ratchet on the Goldix.
Any thoughts?
I have also been looking at all these other brands on Aliexpress. A lot are lighter or cheaper than Novatec but I like the availability of spare parts for the Novatec hubs... Here in the EU you can find a lot of parts in known webshops and the webshop of Novatec is very complete and reasonably priced.
There are sales at Ali for the moments with very tempting prices for the Novatec hubs.
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Hi, why not ZTTO M1? I got the set one season and as far it looks OK. Little less weight than DT350.
Thanks but the ZTTO M1 thread is full of ratchet failures... Maybe the 36T is safer I have no idea.
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...
There are sales at Ali for the moments with very tempting prices for the Novatec hubs.
Could you link some? The spare parts though is valid also.
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I know, I asked them for 36t ratchet.
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Could you link some? The spare parts though is valid also.
Not exactly what you are looking for, but this seller is cheap...
US $35.39 55%OFF | Novatec D791SB-CL D792SB-CL Center Lock Disc Brake MTB Hubs Thru axle 100x12 142x12MM 24 Holes Road Bicycle Hubs ABG FREEHUB 11S
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mstavsq
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Thanks but the ZTTO M1 thread is full of ratchet failures... Maybe the 36T is safer I have no idea.
The 6-bolt brake version has a pawl system with 72 clicks if you don't want ratchet. They have this one as well for j-bend spokes, but its heavier https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003541415410.html
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Does anyone have the Yuan An RD13 hubs on a wheelset? I was quoted for a pretty good price last year for 2 wheelsets but eventually cheaped out on local 2nd hand DT350 wheels
Here is their comparison chart
(https://i.imgur.com/sxreUIy.png)
The full quote was 910USD for 2 carbon wheelsets with their hubs and pillar spokes
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Does anyone know any chinese brands that make 20f/24r centrelock hubsets?
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Any boost MTB hubs recommendation? I would like ratchet and light. I found the Venfort and Goldix M180. Any other similar with better weight?
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Where do you guys get your bearings for the novatec wheels?
Particularly
Novatec D412SB-CL: 15267
Novatec D411SB-CL: 6803
Novatec A291SB-SL: 689
Novatec F482SB-SL: 6802 and 15267
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Where do you guys get your bearings for the novatec wheels?
Particularly
Novatec D412SB-CL: 15267
Novatec D411SB-CL: 6803
Novatec A291SB-SL: 689
Novatec F482SB-SL: 6802 and 15267
I buy most of my bearings here:
https://kandebearingsshop.aliexpress.com/store/3862082?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.pcShopHead_11492976.0 (https://kandebearingsshop.aliexpress.com/store/3862082?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.pcShopHead_11492976.0)
https://fushi.aliexpress.com/store/511615?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_promotion.pcShopHead_6005667.0 (https://fushi.aliexpress.com/store/511615?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_promotion.pcShopHead_6005667.0)
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Does anyone know any chinese brands that make 20f/24r centrelock hubsets?
I'm assuming for road hub spacing?
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Any boost MTB hubs recommendation? I would like ratchet and light. I found the Venfort and Goldix M180. Any other similar with better weight?
I built up a set of wheels with Goldix 240 hubs (36T) and they've held up well for about 400 miles so far. I'm about 95 kg with gear and like cranking up super steep stuff in my 30/51 gear, so they can handle the torque pretty well.
The bearings still seem fine but I will probably order a replacement set soon so that I have them if needed.
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I'm assuming for road hub spacing?
Yup! Oops I shouldve specified in my original comment
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https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004265725514.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.5.15055238EYPWYa&algo_pvid=98380338-3df9-4e85-a8ed-f8c236650d0e&algo_exp_id=98380338-3df9-4e85-a8ed-f8c236650d0e-2&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21NZD%21140.06%21140.06%21%21%2181.21%21%21%402101d4a716933085757727818e4686%2112000028569138531%21sea%21NZ%21784578575%21&curPageLogUid=DBl2IkIQEWZb
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000794822656.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.7.15055238EYPWYa&algo_pvid=98380338-3df9-4e85-a8ed-f8c236650d0e&algo_exp_id=98380338-3df9-4e85-a8ed-f8c236650d0e-3&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21NZD%21164.88%21148.39%21%21%2195.60%21%21%402101d4a716933085757727818e4686%2110000007894531276%21sea%21NZ%21784578575%21&curPageLogUid=BTJj9KH8wF3i
I can't make any comment on quality other than to say these exist.
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Hello everyone, I want to share my experience of using the GOLDIX 240 EXP hub. As soon as I assembled the wheel, on the first ride the ratchet slipped under load, various lubricants didt help, and in the end, after 100 km the ratchet broke.
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Hello everyone, I want to share my experience of using the GOLDIX 240 EXP hub. As soon as I assembled the wheel, on the first ride the ratchet slipped under load, various lubricants didt help, and in the end, after 100 km the ratchet broke.
That seems to be very common with these hubs...
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Is this a case of an expired patent? It seems that throughout the past year every single Chinese wheelseller started to offer a set with copies of various models of DT Swiss hubs. All of them ratchet.
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Is this a case of an expired patent? It seems that throughout the past year every single Chinese wheelseller started to offer a set with copies of various models of DT Swiss hubs. All of them ratchet.
Yes. Old model 240 was an incredible hub, and when the patent expired, everyone copied it, DTSwiss made a new one that is objectively inferior and ramped up the marketing to hide the fact old 240 was peak design
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I see. But it's not only the 240 hub shell I see copies of. I've also seen copies of the DiCut hubs. But I guess the patent only applies to the internals and the ratchet mechanism anyway. Good for the consumers, that this tech is now open to everyone. As long as they manage to copy it properly without the stuff breaking upon first use, that is.
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Hello everyone, I want to share my experience of using the GOLDIX 240 EXP hub. As soon as I assembled the wheel, on the first ride the ratchet slipped under load, various lubricants didt help, and in the end, after 100 km the ratchet broke.
Thanks for the reminder! I just cleaned out and lightly regreased the ratchets in my wifes new hub. They only have 50 miles but she said that she thought she felt it slip once or twice, everything looked perfect. I ordered a spare a genuine DT 24t ratchet set to keep on her bike to keep from being stranded. It would be a shame for such a small and light spare part to not carry one.
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Hello everyone, I want to share my experience of using the GOLDIX 240 EXP hub. As soon as I assembled the wheel, on the first ride the ratchet slipped under load, various lubricants didt help, and in the end, after 100 km the ratchet broke.
Was this the 54T or 36T ratchet? I've heard of a lot of issues with the 54T. I have a 36T and it has been solid for close to 500 miles. I've cleaned and lined it a couple times, making sure to use a light lube sparingly.
I probably will replace it with a DT Swiss ratchet at some point though.
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Was this the 54T or 36T ratchet? I've heard of a lot of issues with the 54T. I have a 36T and it has been solid for close to 500 miles. I've cleaned and lined it a couple times, making sure to use a light lube sparingly.
I probably will replace it with a DT Swiss ratchet at some point though.
If you've had to do that much maintenance in so few miles I don't think the hubs are up for the job. My last 240 was fine evern after 10k miles and no service and require a single bearing replacement at that point.
I bought some chiner hubs last year and they were shite, looked good though mind you.
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If you've had to do that much maintenance in so few miles I don't think the hubs are up for the job. My last 240 was fine evern after 10k miles and no service and require a single bearing replacement at that point.
I bought some chiner hubs last year and they were shite, looked good though mind you.
As far as i know there were also quite some riders having issues with ST Swiss 54 teeth Ratchet. It's just getting more sensitive to tolerances with rising teeth number.
The advice to go for 36T is something, that I also read and it did work for a ZTTO hub (it usually comes with 54, but they changed it to 36 for me). My Goldix hub does have a 36T ratchet, too.
The ZTTO M1 hub has 1000km so far, as no slipping happened so far, I will expect that it will work now until fatigue changes the situation. The Goldix 21H Ratchet has "only" 300km so far, I just finished the wheels very recently. No slipping so far.
My thesis: these systems may work very good for riders with low force on the pedals. (Either low power and/or high cadence ).. but being strong may immediately overstress the mechanic, which would then lead to an early failure.
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If you've had to do that much maintenance in so few miles I don't think the hubs are up for the job. My last 240 was fine evern after 10k miles and no service and require a single bearing replacement at that point.
I bought some chiner hubs last year and they were shite, looked good though mind you.
I've relubed the ratchet twice. The first time was when it was new and I wanted to ensure it was properly lubed. The second was when I was chasing down a creaking noise that turned out to be a cassette issue. The hub hasn't given me any cause for alarm. I'm 95kg and like to ride up some really steep stuff, so I've given them a pretty good workout so far.
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Was this the 54T or 36T ratchet? I've heard of a lot of issues with the 54T. I have a 36T and it has been solid for close to 500 miles. I've cleaned and lined it a couple times, making sure to use a light lube sparingly.
I probably will replace it with a DT Swiss ratchet at some point though.
36T They are ZTTO R2 and so far so good. I just wanted to check on it after a couple of rides.
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Blown up 2 Ztto M1 hubs. killed the 54t ratchets replaced with fovno ratchets then killed the spline that connects the ratchet to the hub.
Have multiple sets of Goldix hubs that I beat on.
Goldix hubs have been bullet proof. Oldest Running for 2 years now trouble free
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Blown up 2 Ztto M1 hubs. killed the 54t ratchets replaced with fovno ratchets then killed the spline that connects the ratchet to the hub.
Have multiple sets of Goldix hubs that I beat on.
Goldix hubs have been bullet proof. Oldest Running for 2 years now trouble free
Are your Goldix ratchets 54 or 36t?
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Was this the 54T or 36T ratchet? I've heard of a lot of issues with the 54T. I have a 36T and it has been solid for close to 500 miles. I've cleaned and lined it a couple times, making sure to use a light lube sparingly.
I probably will replace it with a DT Swiss ratchet at some point though.
It was 36T ratchet
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Thanks for the reminder! I just cleaned out and lightly regreased the ratchets in my wifes new hub. They only have 50 miles but she said that she thought she felt it slip once or twice, everything looked perfect. I ordered a spare a genuine DT 24t ratchet set to keep on her bike to keep from being stranded. It would be a shame for such a small and light spare part to not carry one.
The seller sent a new ratchet under warranty, asked to send an 18t ratchet, I hope everything will be fine this time
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So yesterday I ordered a set of Goldix R180 hubs. Looks like new version and I got a really good early bird deal that I could not let pass.
Planning to build a lightweight MTB wheelset with it.
I really wanted a set of Novatec 411/412 hubs, but every Aliexpress seller that I tried to buy them off had been scamming me until now... So now I'm gonna try the Goldix hub I have been trying to avoid ;D
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So yesterday I ordered a set of Goldix R180 hubs. Looks like new version and I got a really good early bird deal that I could not let pass.
Planning to build a lightweight MTB wheelset with it.
I really wanted a set of Novatec 411/412 hubs, but every Aliexpress seller that I tried to buy them off had been scamming me until now... So now I'm gonna try the Goldix hub I have been trying to avoid ;D
The novatec 411/412 are road hubs, that's anyway not the correct for MTB?
I run Goldix Road hubs for roughly 400km.
I am still not 100% sure that the Ratchet will stay alive. But that's also because I read so much about failing Goldix Ratchets. I have 36T version.
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The novatec 411/412 are road hubs, that's anyway not the correct for MTB?
I run Goldix Road hubs for roughly 400km.
I am still not 100% sure that the Ratchet will stay alive. But that's also because I read so much about failing Goldix Ratchets. I have 36T version.
I have a non-boost frame and I would change the end caps of the front hub to 15x100 (rear is 12x142). So this would fit. I have done the same with the 791/792 hubs that I am running now...
The R180 are also not specifically for MTB, but I asked the seller to change the caps to 15x100 and they agreed to do that.
They have a MTB specific set, the M180, but that was a lot more expensive, and by the looks of it, the only difference are the end caps and the XD freehub instead of the XDR.
This hubset uses a new kind of ratched it seems. So let's hope is does not fail like the older ones... This is the reason why I have stayed far away from these hubs until now...
EDIT: My MTB only sees very light use. It is for about 10 winter rides a year on some singletracks etc. I don't do big jumps or anything like that. That is why I am comfortable using 24-spoke road hubs on my MTB.
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I have a non-boost frame and I would change the end caps of the front hub to 15x100 (rear is 12x142). So this would fit. I have done the same with the 791/792 hubs that I am running now...
The R180 are also not specifically for MTB, but I asked the seller to change the caps to 15x100 and they agreed to do that.
They have a MTB specific set, the M180, but that was a lot more expensive, and by the looks of it, the only difference are the end caps and the XD freehub instead of the XDR.
This hubset uses a new kind of ratched it seems. So let's hope is does not fail like the older ones... This is the reason why I have stayed far away from these hubs until now...
EDIT: My MTB only sees very light use. It is for about 10 winter rides a year on some singletracks etc. I don't do big jumps or anything like that. That is why I am comfortable using 24-spoke road hubs on my MTB.
I didn't take non boost into account. There are too many "standards" flying around for bicycles.
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Anyone have experience with ryet hubs? Hambinis review of the ratchet ones was positive. I am thinking of getting ryet gravel wheels. They are offered in two hub versions - 6 pawl system or 36t ratchet. I am not convinced to those chineese ratchets. Wonder how the 6 pawls are. I have 3 pawl system in my syncros wheels and they spin very good, even better then my dt350 18t.so kinda curious about those 6 pawls.
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So yesterday I ordered a set of Goldix R180 hubs. Looks like new version and I got a really good early bird deal that I could not let pass.
Planning to build a lightweight MTB wheelset with it.
I really wanted a set of Novatec 411/412 hubs, but every Aliexpress seller that I tried to buy them off had been scamming me until now... So now I'm gonna try the Goldix hub I have been trying to avoid ;D
I have just done my first ride with the Goldix 180 hubs... These things are insanely loud... Like embarrassingly loud... I really don't like it. I think loud hubs are for show-offs with very expensive bikes and these are the loudest I have heard... I had already put a lot of grease on the ratchets so this will probably be the most quiet I can get them.
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I'd like to hear those compared to my Industry 9 Hydra. I need to get some grease for it as well.
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I have just done my first ride with the Goldix 180 hubs... These things are insanely loud... Like embarrassingly loud... I really don't like it. I think loud hubs are for show-offs with very expensive bikes and these are the loudest I have heard... I had already put a lot of grease on the ratchets so this will probably be the most quiet I can get them.
Can confirm, 60T in R180SL is insanely loud.
WIll try 54T from DT 240 EXP to compare, also ordered 36T.
EXP is loud in general...
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/UIB5j9OEYws
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BTW.
I built 5-10 wheelsets in past 12 months with Goldix hubs and sold them to friends/customers
Following them closely, all satisfied, some are pushing 5000km. Not huge numbers, but still indicative.
My wheelsets are also Goldix, of course, and i have no issue.
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Can confirm, 60T in R180SL is insanely loud.
WIll try 54T from DT 240 EXP to compare, also ordered 36T.
EXP is loud in general...
Nice to know it's not in my head. Keep us updated... I see there are 18T EXP ratchets from ZTTO
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So yesterday I ordered a set of Goldix R180 hubs. Looks like new version and I got a really good early bird deal that I could not let pass.
Planning to build a lightweight MTB wheelset with it.
I really wanted a set of Novatec 411/412 hubs, but every Aliexpress seller that I tried to buy them off had been scamming me until now... So now I'm gonna try the Goldix hub I have been trying to avoid ;D
R180 is road hubset.
Easy with Goldix, first letter tells if it is Mtb or Road version.
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R180SL with Nextie NXT 40/45deep rims.
Will be on bike in next few days :)
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R180 is road hubset.
Easy with Goldix, first letter tells if it is Mtb or Road version.
Yes, I know, you can read in my following posts why I've chosen these hubs for my MTB.
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BTW.
They have many models. If you've choose one, which would that be?
I built 5-10 wheelsets in past 12 months with Goldix hubs and sold them to friends/customers
Following them closely, all satisfied, some are pushing 5000km. Not huge numbers, but still indicative.
My wheelsets are also Goldix, of course, and i have no issue.
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i used many of them, R310SL 28h for gravel set, R180 for some road.
R240SL and R180SL just lately, but most of them is on that model that doesn't have model number, no logo, just ratchet 24h and weight around 290 grams. They are just normal ratchet and not to loud, best choice for most wheelsets.
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i used many of them, R310SL 28h for gravel set, R180 for some road.
R240SL and R180SL just lately, but most of them is on that model that doesn't have model number, no logo, just ratchet 24h and weight around 290 grams. They are just normal ratchet and not to loud, best choice for most wheelsets.
So you used R180SL for a new set of MTB wheels, do you know what was the weight you got?
As far as I could see the M180 weights around 350 grams, https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005006065318449.html and can´t see any difference from R180 version who weights the same https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005006057668006.html.
I was just planning to use this Goldix 240EXP, 309 grams, https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005003014289678.html.
I did some builds with GDR310 and they were reliable and if not, you could get the ratchets from DT Swiss 350, compatible with them.
What would be your recommendation to build a new XC Wheelset?
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I got some new wheels from BITRANZ. Over the moon with them. They use a Goldix 310 rear hub because I need a 135mm QR for my MTB. The hubs felt great and run super smooth. Time will tell. I have had them from 1 week so far and ridden 400 miles which is not far enough to test long term reliability. It was a punt to try these hubs but on face-value, they seem to be the biz...but fook me they're too loud!
The wheels weight 1308g, 29er 30x30mm rims which I'm pleased with.
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Is Goldix M180 new hub? It's about 40g heavier for a set than M240, but comes with 52T ratchet in contrary to M240 that comes with 36T. And looks like there are some parts for 180 series available too.
@Aliexpress Test Pilot what goldix hubs do you own?
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Is Goldix M180 new hub? It's about 40g heavier for a set than M240, but comes with 52T ratchet in contrary to M240 that comes with 36T. And looks like there are some parts for 180 series available too.
Yes, as far as I know they are new. I think the weight is very good for the price. The R180 and M180 are the same for the most part.
With the sale they are at a reasonable price again. They have been about 95 USD (EU tax incl) before sale.
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I've found this video (google translation needed): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zT0xaA81PI4
He talks about almost all models, but doesn't recommend both 240 and 180 due to ratchet failures and only 370 and 310 are options to go or 240 with large outer spline, not threaded. 370 and 310 are also compatible with DT ratchets. Lighter 310 model uses aluminium ratchet ring and he says this ring tends to wear, it doesn't in DT hubs. In 370 there's no labyrinth driver body sealing, so you maybe need driver from 240 or 310. I'm not sure I will go with GDX, as I'm building wheels for racing...
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I've found this video (google translation needed): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zT0xaA81PI4
He talks about almost all models, but doesn't recommend both 240 and 180 due to ratchet failures and only 370 and 310 are options to go or 240 with large outer spline, not threaded. 370 and 310 are also compatible with DT ratchets. Lighter 310 model uses aluminium ratchet ring and he says this ring tends to wear, it doesn't in DT hubs. In 370 there's no labyrinth driver body sealing, so you maybe need driver from 240 or 310. I'm not sure I will go with GDX, as I'm building wheels for racing...
Just order hubs from elite wheels. R12 is the model as far as I remember. People use them with elite wheels and all are happy
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Thx!
Looks like this is yuan M14 hub. Here ale links, please take a look:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001960343687.html
https://www.yuananbike.com/product/yar-m14-mtb-hub-ratchet-system-center-lock-boost-axle-hub
Goldix is very similar but uses bit different driver body:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003474664645.html
Not sure it it's the same supplier or not for goldix 310, but 310 has driver without labyrinth sealing flange that makes it prone to dirt.
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Thx!
Looks like this is yuan M14 hub. Here ale links, please take a look:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001960343687.html
https://www.yuananbike.com/product/yar-m14-mtb-hub-ratchet-system-center-lock-boost-axle-hub
Goldix is very similar but uses bit different driver body:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001960343687.html
Not sure it it's the same supplier or not for goldix 310, but 310 has driver without labyrinth sealing flange that makes it prone to dirt.
Your last link is the same as the first one
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Sorry, right, here's correct one (fixed also original post)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003474664645.html
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Yeah, those hubs look identical.
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Except driver body, 310, 370 and 180 I think use driver with flat surface. To get "proper" driver you need to buy driver from 240.
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Except driver body, 310, 370 and 180 I think use driver with flat surface, to get "proper" driver you need to buy 310 or 370 + driver from 240.
I have the R180 on my MTB. I have done about 200km with it incl a very muddy ride (ruined the BB bearings). I will take the freehub apart to check the state of it in a couple of days.
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I just saw the R180 set for 96 USD tax incl.
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What are the lightest boost hubset that we can order from Aliexpress - is there something under 300g for both?
I am motivated to test something lightweight from Ali :-)
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Hold my beer ;)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004396722331.html <- this is older 240 with Chinese ratchet design, not exp
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006156408222.html <- this is very light, but the driver body almost certainly lacks sealing flange, so you need to buy driver from 240
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Hold my beer ;)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006156408222.html <- this is very light, but the driver body almost certainly lacks sealing flange, so you need to buy driver from 240
There does seem to be a seal in this pic:
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/S4cc0a22f7e5040afb59378f8bbe59aa4Z.jpg?width=1000&height=1434&hash=2434)
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I was talking about extra flange on the driver, it's visible on the video I've linked above, 14:47.
BUT haven't noticed that this hub hides driver deeper inside body, not sure now how sealing works there.
I think I'll go with M350, simple j-bend model after all...
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I took apart my R180 hub yesterday after about 130km of which 85 in very bad weather and mud. Everything looks OK. The tips of the ratchets look a little bit worn, but since they are razor sharp this might be normal.
I packed the ratchet with grease, assembled everything and... the ratchet would no longer engage... I took it apart again, added some oil to the grease and that solved the problem.
The ratchet is now A LOT more quiet.
Edit: after 1 ride it is LOUD again...
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I've now done 400 miles in just under 3 weeks on these. Lots of rain and dirt fromcommuting and riding on the south downs, hubs still loud as hell but no slippage. I guess i'll open them up over christmas when they get to about 1000 miles or sooner if i get any issues. So far, happy :)
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My Goldix 240 SL 60t is skipping bad under load. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804895514428.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.59.65081802Fw79NU&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
I tried purchasing a dt swiss 54t exp upgrade but it is incompatible with the hub. The threaded portion is way larger on the Goldix hub. Anyone have success with trying something different?
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Did you try cleaning the ratchet and using thinner grease/oil?
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My Goldix 240 SL 60t is skipping bad under load. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804895514428.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.59.65081802Fw79NU&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
I tried purchasing a dt swiss 54t exp upgrade but it is incompatible with the hub. The threaded portion is way larger on the Goldix hub. Anyone have success with trying something different?
Can't you purchase some ratchets from Goldix store with lower number of teeth?
At least they sell them separately
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EuuXcE3
At least going down in teeth number gives more robustness against slipping.
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Can't you purchase some ratchets from Goldix store with lower number of teeth?
At least they sell them separately
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EuuXcE3
At least going down in teeth number gives more robustness against slipping.
I messaged Goldix and they told me this hub is only available with 60t. I'm done with it. I'm cutting my losses and putting on a DT 350. Hopefully it's similar enough to not need new spokes.
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I messaged Goldix and they told me this hub is only available with 60t. I'm done with it. I'm cutting my losses and putting on a DT 350. Hopefully it's similar enough to not need new spokes.
:( sorry to hear that. Good luck with the reuse of spokes.
The 60T and 36T replacement set do in fact look very similar in the outer ring structure and additional rings.. ??? Sad that the dimensions are not given.
But even your link to the article tells about optional 36T. This is. Weird?
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Can someone tell me what spokes i need for this rim
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805863224869.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allItems_or_groupList.0.0.86b76a46E92BEx&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%21%E2%82%AC%2031%2C77%21%E2%82%AC%2030%2C06%21%21%21239.08%21226.25%21%402101eff117135512245803360eb854%2112000035490977194%21sh%21HR%21833424489%21&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt
the rims are lb falcon pro 55 with ERD 530mm, i would like to use sapim cx sprint but what length?
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Can someone tell me what spokes i need for this rim
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805863224869.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allItems_or_groupList.0.0.86b76a46E92BEx&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%21%E2%82%AC%2031%2C77%21%E2%82%AC%2030%2C06%21%21%21239.08%21226.25%21%402101eff117135512245803360eb854%2112000035490977194%21sh%21HR%21833424489%21&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt
the rims are lb falcon pro 55 with ERD 530mm, i would like to use sapim cx sprint but what length?
I think you can try ask the aliexpress store actually! Ive done that in the past and they calculated for me and i double checked with an online spoke length calculator
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Purchased the ZTTO DR190 54t ratchet hubs. The spoke holes are double drilled shaped like a key hole. Anyone know the purpose of that? ZTTO says it's for better durability but I'm scratching my chin.
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Purchased the ZTTO DR190 54t ratchet hubs. The spoke holes are double drilled shaped like a key hole. Anyone know the purpose of that? ZTTO says it's for better durability but I'm scratching my chin.
It's for flat spokes like the sapim cx ray
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It's for flat spokes like the sapim cx ray
Ahh ok that makes sense...
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Hi guys,
I have the Goldix EXP 240 MTB hubs (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003014289678.html) for 4 months now. I rode the in the bike park in heavy rain. Even after doing some pressure cleaning - No problems. While maintaining all other parts I also checked the inside of my rear hub. As mentioned all looked pretty decent. The last days I rode my bike again. Uphill, no big deal. But just at the end of the trail the moving ratchet must have gotten stuck somehow. My first pedal stroke at the bottom of the trail went into the void. Also the hub went dead silent when coasting. No engagement at all. Not even slipping/skipping teeth.
The issue seemed to have been fixed easily by removing and reattaching the freehub body. The sound was slightly different though. Back home I took the hub apart, cleaned everything thoroughly and used only a very thin coating of grease plus a few drops of Fox 20WT Gold. The sound was became super loud but crisp after reassembly.
Today I went for a test spin. Uphill again no problem, even with some hard cranking. Happily I went into some fairly rocky, but fast trail. Again just before the end at full speed my bike suddenly became dead quite. I directly knew that the freehub ratchets got disengaged again. No pedaling possible. Again I just pulled the cassette , including the freehub body off the rear hub and reattached it. The ratchets had contact again.
This is so weird. I think the moving part of the ratchet is being pushed into a jammed position being unable to return. My guess is that either the moving ratchet part is being held back by sticky grease (unlikely) and the spring is too weak to push it loose. Or the "rail teeth" of the moving part get locket up with the rails of the freehub body. Also strange because I cleaned everything and regreased all with 20WT Gold in the first place. And the parts also don't seem to look worn.
Did anyone experience some similar issue or has an idea how to fix that?
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Did anyone experience some similar issue or has an idea how to fix that?
I've put about 1000 miles on mine so far without any problems. I wonder if replacing the spring would help? It seems odd that it would start to stick with no visible damage.
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Or maybe you could try to stretch the spring a little, so it will put more force on the assembly
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Or maybe you could try to stretch the spring a little, so it will put more force on the assembly
That also came into my mind. I'm just afraid to bend it too much on one side and make it even worse that way.
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That also came into my mind. I'm just afraid to bend it too much on one side and make it even worse that way.
Well, they way I see it, you ain't got much to lose...
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Well, they way I see it, you ain't got much to lose...
I depends. If the issue comes from somewhere else, I might have to get a new ratchet unit in order to obtain the spring.
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Hi guys,
I have the Goldix EXP 240 MTB hubs (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003014289678.html) for 4 months now. I rode the in the bike park in heavy rain. Even after doing some pressure cleaning - No problems. While maintaining all other parts I also checked the inside of my rear hub. As mentioned all looked pretty decent. The last days I rode my bike again. Uphill, no big deal. But just at the end of the trail the moving ratchet must have gotten stuck somehow. My first pedal stroke at the bottom of the trail went into the void. Also the hub went dead silent when coasting. No engagement at all. Not even slipping/skipping teeth.
The issue seemed to have been fixed easily by removing and reattaching the freehub body. The sound was slightly different though. Back home I took the hub apart, cleaned everything thoroughly and used only a very thin coating of grease plus a few drops of Fox 20WT Gold. The sound was became super loud but crisp after reassembly.
Today I went for a test spin. Uphill again no problem, even with some hard cranking. Happily I went into some fairly rocky, but fast trail. Again just before the end at full speed my bike suddenly became dead quite. I directly knew that the freehub ratchets got disengaged again. No pedaling possible. Again I just pulled the cassette , including the freehub body off the rear hub and reattached it. The ratchets had contact again.
This is so weird. I think the moving part of the ratchet is being pushed into a jammed position being unable to return. My guess is that either the moving ratchet part is being held back by sticky grease (unlikely) and the spring is too weak to push it loose. Or the "rail teeth" of the moving part get locket up with the rails of the freehub body. Also strange because I cleaned everything and regreased all with 20WT Gold in the first place. And the parts also don't seem to look worn.
Did anyone experience some similar issue or has an idea how to fix that?
Exactly the same problem, or at least exactly the same symptoms. I notices, that outer part of ratchet got stuck in the freehub body, like there is too much play between ratchet and freehub and ratchet to not travel perpendicularly to the freehub body. Any kind of greasing did not helped, new Goldix ratchet in the same freehub did not helped, stronger spring did not helped. Finally I swapped outer part of ratchet with different 36T ratchet, actually from ZTTO and it works flawlessly for more than 1 year.
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Wow, that's interesting. I will have a look at ZTTOs ratchet. But for now Goldix is sending me a new ratchet to try.
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Wow, that's interesting. I will have a look at ZTTOs ratchet. But for now Goldix is sending me a new ratchet to try.
They also sent me new rather after posting a photos-videos or half ratchet stuck in the freehub body. But new ratchet did not helped, IMHO to problem is that ratchet is too loose in freehub body and there is a space to get jammed there away from the second part of ratchet and therefore dis-engage from each other until you open it, free it and temporarily fixed it.
Please report back if their new ratchets are may be a little big bigger in diameter or may be freehub body more tight.
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Ok, that make sense. I will report back if the issue further exists with the new ratchet.
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I'm up to about 1200 miles on my Goldix 240EXP hubs and one of the freehub bearings is pretty crunchy. All of the other bearings on both hubs feel smooth, but I will order a replacement set so I can replace them when they fail.
The freehub bearings were pretty easy to remove. How do I get the hub bearings out? The axle is pressed through the bearings and it pretty snug. I gave it a few taps but it didn't budge, and I didn't want to bang on it too hard.
(The freehub uses a pair of 6802 RS bearings. Both the front and rear hubs use 15267 2RS bearings.)
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The freehub bearings in my gdx370 got shot after around 80-100km. The ratchet side bearing is very coarse to turn and makes a lot of noise, the outside bearing is tiny bit better. The bearings in the hub is smooth. This gave me a stupid idea of replacing the bearings with NTN ones since i can get them under retail price.
After the bearing change will this cheap hub run better than the og DT one?
As for the sticking ratchets i placed the same white washer as in the shell into freehub body and it works. I tired only using that small red spacer(the one that comes with EXP ratchets) but it was still sticking. With that plastic washer on both sides it works normally.
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Really appreciate all the info here. Decided to build a new wheelset and since the goldix 370 have been going quite well for me in all weather commuting, I decided to try another chinese hub. I came across a space grey venfort hub on discount for $65 (!) and matches everything I was looking for (light, older dual 36t ratchet system, road spacing) so I ordered those.
Just got them and they seem quite nice and feels solid. Bearings look good and there is some grease on them too. There are some nicks on the hub bodies and the finish is not that durable. Easy to scratch with some metal calipers. But at $65, I'll give that pass.
One hesitation I had was that there were no drawings/dimension on the hubs to calculate spoke length. I heard other people had success messaging the seller so I did that. It didn't give confidence when they asked for rim depth and not rim ERD. Even providing ERD, they wanted depth. I ended up measuring the hubs myself which was kind of hard as they were straight pull and using the dt swiss spoke calculator. Surprisingly, the spoke lengths were within ~1mm of the length the seller gave so either we are both right or both wrong :)
Currently waiting on the rims (WG44) and spokes/nipples (pillar 1420, sapim double square) to come in. Will update when I get things built!
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I'm looking to buy a set of boost hubs, but now quite uncertain about what to get, having read some of the pro's and cons here and seeing what's available on AX.
so we have Goldix, 370, 350, 240 and 180's.
370's use either a 36t or 60t ratchet made of steel. look like EXP type in some of the drawings but the photo's are old style DT.
350 (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006641370009.html) use a 26T ratchet, but I can't make out quite how that works. looks EXP configuration, but the teeth are angled and looks like there's not a huge amount of contact patch.
240 (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005220417823.html) look more like traditional EXP ratchet, with a 36/60t option (though one poster above said goldix only did them in 60t, which contradicts this) and I see some 54t resale ones. are these compatible with DT ratchets should they need to be replaced?
180's (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004721073940.html) look very similar to the 240's but with the 54t exp style ratchet.
I did see a 72T ratchet setup, I think by goldix too which looked like it'd fail on the first bit of mud. the ratchet teeth angled 30 degrees or so, so likely not cross compatible with anything else. I actually see it posted on p9 of this thread..
Then there's venfort, who have had mixed reviews, but do look like you can swap out the ratchet with genuine DT ones if it goes, though uncertain if that's just an issue with the 60T version, or if the 36T is OK?
The ZTTO M1 hubs folk talk about seem to not be sold on AX anymore?
I'm tempted to go venfort, 36T unless there is a compelling argument against?
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Hello,
Could you tell me what model is this hub?
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=23574;image)
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=23576;image)
It looks similar to a Goldix and I managed to use the DT350 freehub but... More images, does it ring a bell to you?
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=23579;image)
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=23581;image)
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Looks like they might be made by H-Works? https://h-works.cn/collections/hubs (https://h-works.cn/collections/hubs)
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The thing is h-works HW-261 looks similar to the advert picture but the hub built in the wheelset is another. If you look at the pictures taken directly from the wheel you will see what I mean.
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Finally got my wheel built with the space grey venfort hubs. Very uneventful; so far so good. Built like any hub as well. I honestly thought I would have more thoughts but this is it for now
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Hello,
Could you tell me what model is this hub?
What wheels did you buy?
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What wheels did you buy?
I bought this wheelset:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007009661247.html
With D325 hubs. They are CSC Wheelset.
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How are wheels and hubs?
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I have recently build a wheelset with the Goldix R240SL hubs.
Did my first ride yesterday and all is well. They are very loud as expected. I would like them to be more silent.
Total weight of the wheels is 1380gr
Specs:
Aliexpress 54x31mm rims (470gr each)
Alpina Hyperlite Aero spokes
Goldix R240Sl hubs (255gr)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOxYeVzVBtnW6jEUInZWhKzNJQFOgMveaRZX4bNJ-_nUJhbvoWPujoZbdskoNS6pUw3U1Fud5pyeK22kMvuu52N8Lu0G1p8cfM6ByKO_ej2hxOjH26n=w2000)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMTDQU6RbqRHZlFWMuBbIF4JtHZtqE8eYJSkeO1IsbyD83Z-j4tWZ2jSYRZ8hoRGeo4apQEGNFGTTHtXrSIkkLNN5F_A5SUqgMw-2awVH6lNBfYlsy_=w1920-h1080)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPB7Us3wEVj5oTf3kPy99mZHb7JjiWuWfiIXyWfTh2NvBbivHX-gxI_6TXnWXDv8IIHbdJFsRtzJx52s6XZktz13eg3dY0O7MivUeJtYAtCPqtTRms5=w1920-h1080)
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I'm looking at new sets of MTB BOOST hubs in centerlock version from Goldix.
No seller has been able to reliably explain to me the difference between their hub models 160 / 180 / 240 / 310. Can anyone advise here? I don't really care about weight, they're all very light anyways. I care about reliablity & stiffness & durability.
For the past year I've been running the Goldix M310 and except stripping the ratchet once, everything has been working out fine. I think the ratchet has stripped due to too much lube being in the system from factory.
Thanks guys!
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I have recently build a wheelset with the Goldix R240SL hubs.
Did my first ride yesterday and all is well. They are very loud as expected. I would like them to be more silent.
I have the same hub. Does your freewheel make a bit "pulsating" ratchet noise? Mine does and it's annoying as it's not continuous but cycles between louder and quieter sound. Otherwise I'm happy and wish they were louder.
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I have the same hub. Does your freewheel make a bit "pulsating" ratchet noise? Mine does and it's annoying as it's not continuous but cycles between louder and quieter sound. Otherwise I'm happy and wish they were louder.
Yeah, it does pulsate a little bit.
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Does anyone know if a 36T rachet "Kocevlo Road disc hub" dt swiss knockoff has a model # or is the same as some other goldix/fovno hub? I need to find some replacement end caps for them.
Thank you!
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806835999957.html
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I have now done a little over 1000km on my MTB with the R180 hub and on my last ride a few days ago the ratchet (52T) stopped engaging... After a couple of minutes and pedalling backwards, it worked again and kept working for the remainder of the ride.
I took it apart when I got home and the grease looked kind of dirty, but nothing really bad. The teeth of the ratchet mechanism are damaged but after cleaning and re-greasing it seems to engage OK. I still have to try it on the road though.
I believe the damage will not really affect the working, but I will keep an eye out for further problems and I have another ratchet on hand to replace if needed.
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Does anyone know if a 36T rachet "Kocevlo Road disc hub" dt swiss knockoff has a model # or is the same as some other goldix/fovno hub? I need to find some replacement end caps for them.
Thank you!
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806835999957.html
Bit late reply but its exactly the same as the goldix R350 as they are the OEM for it if i'm not mistaken. The end caps from here should work, I-converter and J-converter from the listing.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/1005004677469264.html
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Wonder if someone can give me a sanity check on some spoke lengths.
Looking at the Goldix sl180:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806765626965.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.17ff38daoQ2LfU&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
Measurements in screenshot.
Wheel ERD is 592 with 2.8mm offset:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803176862682.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.17ff38daoQ2LfU&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
2 Cross Lacing.
Spoke Lengths offered by seller is 192 and 194.
Does this look correct? Could I get away with 194 on the read right side? Technically 2.3mm to long according to the calc.
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Wonder if someone can give me a sanity check on some spoke lengths.
Looking at the Goldix sl180:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806765626965.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.17ff38daoQ2LfU&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
Measurements in screenshot.
Wheel ERD is 592 with 2.8mm offset:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803176862682.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.17ff38daoQ2LfU&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
2 Cross Lacing.
Spoke Lengths offered by seller is 192 and 194.
Does this look correct? Could I get away with 194 on the read right side? Technically 2.3mm to long according to the calc.
You could Double check with the dt Swiss calculator to be sure.
Do not go 2,5mm longer. That is too long and you will not be able to tension the spokes
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Got pretty much the same with the inputted values. Not sure on the spoke offset on the hub, this is with 0 values.
Think this should get me pretty close.
Probably go with 1/2 at 294 and 1/2 at 292.
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Got pretty much the same with the inputted values. Not sure on the spoke offset on the hub, this is with 0 values.
Think this should get me pretty close.
Probably go with 1/2 at 294 and 1/2 at 292.
I might be wrong, but isn't the spoke offset fairly big on those hubs? So you should input those because it will have a big impact on the spoke length...
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Is that these numbers?
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Is that these numbers?
Yes.
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Did you also account for the rim offset?
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Did you also account for the rim offset?
That I did.
Thanks all!
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2 Cross Lacing.
Spoke Lengths offered by seller is 192 and 194.
Does this look correct? Could I get away with 194 on the read right side? Technically 2.3mm to long according to the calc.
Spoke length with the offset values. Spokecalc doesn't allow more than 4mm of offset so its 297.03 for the NDS on the rear hub.
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Wonder if someone can give me a sanity check on some spoke lengths.
Looking at the Goldix sl180:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806765626965.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.17ff38daoQ2LfU&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
Measurements in screenshot.
Wheel ERD is 592 with 2.8mm offset:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803176862682.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.17ff38daoQ2LfU&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
2 Cross Lacing.
Spoke Lengths offered by seller is 192 and 194.
Does this look correct? Could I get away with 194 on the read right side? Technically 2.3mm to long according to the calc.
Besides any calculation... you should not trust the ERD value from a data sheet. That's something you really must measure. I had Carbonbeam rims a couple of months ago where the ERD was wrong by 5mm in the data sheet. Sounds crazy? Yes. It is crazy.
The spoke hole offset from the shown Goldix drawing must be divided by 2. The drawing clearly indicates that the value marks the double offset.
A general idea before calculating wild and uncontrolled: read around, there are some very nice explanations. And then try again with one of the spoke calc tools.
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How did you measure erd and in which direction was the spec wrong?
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Someone has experience with gildix m310 MTB hubs?
I am evaluating a Easedon MTB wheelset with these hubs and I would likes tò know if in case of issues I can replaced ratchet with original dtswiss or other brands.
Thanks
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How did you measure erd and in which direction was the spec wrong?
The rim was stated to be 555mm ERD. For Carbonbeam this value refers to the pure rim.. which is also very clearly visible in the technical drawings.
I measured including nipple head which ads 3mm for Sapim polyax 14mm . This measurement gave 553mm .
So considering that the spoke heads added 3mm to the measurement, the pure rim ERD was 550mm .. 5mm off from the data sheet. That's quite a bit and far away from measurement accuracy.
Whereas Ken confirmed my finding, Carbonbeam still didn't change the wrong number in the data sheet.
My wheel build turned out perfect in spokes length, which adds another proof to the finding. With 5mm to high ERD I would have bought 2mm longer spokes, which would have been a desaster.
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Can someone help me for the right DT Swiss Freehub XDR Body for this hub? And should i also change some other parts on the rear hub like Bearings or the spring or the ratched system?
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005004904398758.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.337.95615c5fDrduz1&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
KOCEVLO Stern Ratsche Straße DISC Bremse Straightpull Hub 100x1 2/142x12mm 24 loch Licht 270g straße 60T Ratsche Naben ENDURO
Would be great if someone can help me or has experience with this rear hub.
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Can someone help me for the right DT Swiss Freehub XDR Body for this hub? And should i also change some other parts on the rear hub like Bearings or the spring or the ratched system?
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005004904398758.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.337.95615c5fDrduz1&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
KOCEVLO Stern Ratsche Straße DISC Bremse Straightpull Hub 100x1 2/142x12mm 24 loch Licht 270g straße 60T Ratsche Naben ENDURO
Would be great if someone can help me or has experience with this rear hub.
I bought j-spoke kocevlos as well and honestly regret it now - they don't even have model numbers listed. There's a post above that has a link for replacement end-caps and drivers for goldix hubs which kind of look equivalent, but you have to really look at the drawings and dimensions for your hub body to have at least some confidence prior to purchasing.
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I bought this wheelset:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007009661247.html
With D325 hubs. They are CSC Wheelset.
Did you find the maker of the hubs? I am awaiting the same wheel from CSC so I don´t know how it looks in real life.
I hope I get the ones in de advert. Then it should be H works
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Dont look like hworks
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Dont look like hworks
In the advert they pretty similar to H works? But not the ones he got.
I see in another advert that CSC has both D272 and D325 as ratchet hubs.
There is some info here https://www.carbonspeedcycle.com/blog/post/csc-s-newly-upgraded-carbon-fiber-wheelset-wider-rims-lighter-hubs/
But not a lot.
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Very visibly different
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Where did u get the 11mm hex to disassembly the hub?
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I bought this wheelset:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007009661247.html
With D325 hubs. They are CSC Wheelset.
Mine was D272 54t ratchet.
I just found this on AliExpress: 5 876,56kr | UCI CSC Ultralight Road bike Carbon Wheels 700C Center Lock 54T Ratchet System Hub Disc 35 to 58mm deep for Gravel Bicycle 1280g
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EJaeyTK
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Does anyone have experience with Koozer hubs 350 Model 8560/8565?
It is a lightweight 40/60 ratchet, Straight Pull, Center Lock for Gravel/Road.
All the details are here: https://www.koozer.net/118.html
Thank you!
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Does anyone have experience with Koozer hubs 350 Model 8560/8565?
If i'm not mistaken then GOLDIX is their OEM so the quality should be the same.
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Little update on my R240SL hubs. I have ridden them 750km now, and discovered there was play in the rear wheel. Opened up the hub and discovered the NDS bearing was already rusty. Looks like these hubs have bad waterproofing (or bad factory bearings). Replaced the bearing, put in a lot of waterproof grease, so I hope this will last a little longer :)
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sounds like a classic chinese hub experience
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sounds like a classic chinese hub experience
+1
Replacement with good bearings should solve the issues .
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I bought another hub and was specifically looking for the star ratchet style and not EXP. This way I could swap the cassette + freehub between my wheels and can save on expensive cassettes. However, I realized there are two types of star ratchet freehubs. There is the DT Swiss LN version and the regular version. The LN version is flat on the side that faces the hub when slid in while the regular freehub has couple steps. They are not compatible. So if this also matters to you, definitely look at the photos of the freehub before buying. Specifically the Venfort hub with a step on the outside of the rear hub uses the LN freehub
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Anyone know what drivers are compatible with Yuan An road disc ratchet hubs? I'm specifically looking for a XDR driver for these hubs.
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https://aliexpress.com/item/1005006911175234.html
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Thanks! Any idea if DT Swiss XDR drivers are compatible as well? Reading through the thread it sounds like yes, but just want to make sure.
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Check seal location on current freehub, on my Venfort hubs the LN freehub is compatible, not EXP.
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Can anybody confirm the standard DT ratchet (OEM parts) fit in the Goldix 370?
It seems that the Goldix 370 used a conical shape ratchet, different from "flat style" DTSwiss ratchet
check this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MxF9az6EYQQ
I have a very reliable OEM DTSwiss 54t ratchet (full ring, not lighweight version) I want to try to use in the GoldixM370
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Hi,
can somebody help me finding better hub out of Goldix R240 SL and the one in this wheel (seems to be H-Works SR330):
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007990155832.html
I wanna buy that wheels and am considering switch to R240 SL which is lighter - but is it same durable???
BR