Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: patliean1 on April 06, 2022, 10:05:02 AM
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Hello All,
I'm looking to upgrade two of my bikes to FSA/Vision ACR stems, in order maintain internal routing.
#1 Dengfu R12 - I'm currently running Dengfu's integrated handlebars (110mm stem length). Nothing wrong with them but I really need at least a 130mm length stem, and moving the saddle back isn't optimal.
#2 VeloBuild 177 - I'm using VB's separate bar/stem combo, but unfortunately the loose headset play is still a tiny issue because of the design flaw in the top cap. This is a shame because my overall bike fit, stem, and geometry is perfect on the 177.
My question(s) with FSA ACR stems are as follows:
1. How do I know if the FSA stem is compatible with the included spacers from each brand? Both VB and Dengfu spacers are similar is design, but are not cross compatible.
2. Do I need to also purchase FSA's headset cover?
3. And if I need to purchase FSA's spacers...which name brand should I select? Specialized? Trek? ect...
Having built several Chinese-branded bikes in the past 12 months, I must that one of the main drawbacks is the severe lack of handlebar options with these frames. I recognize most customers aren't running extreme bike fits and reach. However, if these frames are designed to go fast and be used competitively it make sense for these companies to offer at least their version of FSA's ACR stem.
Thanks in advanced!
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From what i understand, the bike needs to be compatible with the ACR system. Most bikes are not. Ask the manufacturer if the frame is compatible with the ACR system. I know the Carbonada CFR 1056 is compatible with the ACR system. It says it on their website. http://www.carbonda.com/road-frames/125.html
My bike, the LTK-268, which is similar to the velo build 177 IIRC is NOT compatible with the ACR system.
Hope this helps.
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The only thing frame-specific about ACR (other than 1.5"-1.5" headtube) should be the specific internal routing on the fork. However, other frames with this size headtube should be compatible with similar FSA internal routing systems. This video gives a good overview: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFFvlhbmSYY
SMR in particular is interesting because the SMR stem supports both routing through the stem, as well as underneath it. This should give you the most handlebar options.
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The only thing frame-specific about ACR (other than 1.5"-1.5" headtube) should be the specific internal routing on the fork. However, other frames with this size headtube should be compatible with similar FSA internal routing systems. This video gives a good overview: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFFvlhbmSYY
SMR in particular is interesting because the SMR stem supports both routing through the stem, as well as underneath it. This should give you the most handlebar options.
This is super helpful. Basically All I need is the 1.5"-1.5" headtube, ACR stem, then I should be able to use the same handlebars. Thank you!
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You might have a problem with the spacers.
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I have a FSA NS ACR Stem coming in soon for my 177, I'll let you know what I find out!
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You might have a problem with the spacers.
Thankfully my stem is slammed LoL
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Hi Patrick,
there are users in this forum that have chosen the FSA ACR system. Seems they replaced the Velobuild top bearing with the FSA No.55R.
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3102.msg34543.html#msg34543
I gather, if you do that you have the FSA bearing cap and the FSA stem - so you can run FSA spacers in between.
As far as the headset play is concerned, I believe there are users that added 3/4 cut out spacer to the top of the Velobuild headset construction to remove headset play.
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It looks like you can just buy the top cap for $7, maybe it's worth it to have no headache...
https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/acr-headset-top-cover
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Hi Patrick,
there are users in this forum that have chosen the FSA ACR system. Seems they replaced the Velobuild top bearing with the FSA No.55R.
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3102.msg34543.html#msg34543
I gather, if you do that you have the FSA bearing cap and the FSA stem - so you can run FSA spacers in between.
As far as the headset play is concerned, I believe there are users that added 3/4 cut out spacer to the top of the Velobuild headset construction to remove headset play.
This is rather helpful. I wonder if anyone has a photo of the 3/4 cut out spacer. Thank you!
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I found this option but haven't requested any info from them. I like the shape and lack of decals/branding compared to the FSA and Velobuild stems.
https://www.workswellbikes.com/internal-wiring/wsc-012.html
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I found this option but haven't requested any info from them. I like the shape and lack of decals/branding compared to the FSA and Velobuild stems.
https://www.workswellbikes.com/internal-wiring/wsc-012.html
THIS is precisely what I was looking for!
Is it also a possibility that the upper and lower headset bearings from VeloBuild are two different sizes?
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THIS is precisely what I was looking for!
Is it also a possibility that the upper and lower headset bearings from VeloBuild are two different sizes?
Velobuild has it listed as 1.5 to 1.5, and I was under the impression that was required for internal routing with the ACR system. Somehow Dengfu is doing it with 1.5 to 1.125, or they didn't enter the correct info on their website
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This is rather helpful. I wonder if anyone has a photo of the 3/4 cut out spacer. Thank you!
Hi Patrick,
there is some mention in the Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame thread, quite a long thread, unfortunately.
Here are some messages:
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3147.msg33629.html#msg33629
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3147.msg33596.html#msg33596
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3147.msg33543.html#msg33543
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3147.msg31817.html#msg31814
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3147.msg31797.html#msg31797
Some users in this thread, like yourself, reported that changing the compression plug solved the issue.
Others had to add thin spacers, microshims. I also created one for my build, but moving away from the Velobuild spacer system solved the issue for me.
Tried to share some of my experiences in this message:
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3102.msg34848.html#msg34848
Attached a picture of the 3/4 cut out spacer / microshim that I did, you may use this from Aliexpress and modify it:
https://aliexpress.com/item/32805230845.html
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Got my AC Stem and top cap this morning, but it won't work without modifying something, either that half circle bearing insert, or the top cap. the nubs from the top cap do not line up with the inserts on the bearing insert.
I'm curious if i could just sand down the nubs on the ACR top cap and with the compression of the headset, get it to work... Sucks you need that one top piece "C Shape" out of the headset to get it to work.
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I had the same issues when i tried to use yoeleo h9 handlebars. We had to sand down some of the nubs on the spacers. Also, it looks weird because i am using different spacers that didn't come with the handlebars.
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thankfully i dont need the spacers, but the top cap doesn't sit flush. so it worked based on how I'm describing? debating on buying the whole headset but would prefer to get going on this build if it works!
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so idecided to take the $15 gamble and see if i could make it sit flush but nope, you will need the full headset. ordering that now...
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so idecided to take the $15 gamble and see if i could make it sit flush but nope, you will need the full headset. ordering that now...
How long did shipping take?
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from FSAProShop, Ordered it Friday morning, got it Monday morning.... Kind of shocking how fast!
From Washington to North Carolina. Hoping once I get this I can slap this front end together!
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from FSAProShop, Ordered it Friday morning, got it Monday morning.... Kind of shocking how fast!
From Washington to North Carolina. Hoping once I get this I can slap this front end together!
That's awesome! I'm in Chicago...
So basically I need to order the following?:
1. An ACR stem
2. The complete ACR top headset bearing (NO. 55R 1.5" ACR STD)
Do I need to order spacers or a new compression plug? My stem is slammed btw...
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yes, that is what i have ordered and i think it would work. I can't imagine needing anything else. You pretty much won't use anything from your original headset (minus the bearings) and use all the items in that headset bearing kit.
The only variable is if the bearing is sitting too low in the frame, but I won't know until I get all the bits in place!
It will come with 3 spacers, but you can just throw them out :)
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yes, that is what i have ordered and i think it would work. I can't imagine needing anything else. You pretty much won't use anything from your original headset (minus the bearings) and use all the items in that headset bearing kit.
The only variable is if the bearing is sitting too low in the frame, but I won't know until I get all the bits in place!
It will come with 3 spacers, but you can just throw them out :)
Awesome! Thanks for your help. I really do like my VB 177 and I have the geometry/bike fit set up perfectly.
Been looking to test out different wheel combos with the frame, but I've been waiting to officially sort out the headset.
Let me know how it goes....
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Perks of working from home; ripped open the package and put it all together:
If you use the bearing that comes with the bike, it sits a little higher. That is the photo I have. If you swap out the bearing for the one that comes with the headset, it sits lower, less than 2mm. It still does have a space, but isn't as much of an eyesore as this looks.
I don't think it's a perfect option, but for me, it is the only way I can run the stem length I want on this bike, so I'm going to roll with it. I'm sure I could figure out a different bearing solution, but I know that this will work and be 100% safe.
If I find time to head back into the garage I'll take a better photo farther away of the FSA bearing with the FSA C spacer and top cap.
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Who am I kidding, I got time. i can't fit my 2mm allen key in between, maybe a credit card? First time using this type of stem setup/bearing cap, so not sure if this is normal or not.
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Yeah, i had the same issue with my handlebars, and believed I'd have the same problem as you are describing with the bearing/topcap.
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Interesting. And I really appreciate you taking a huge leap of faith trying this out for all of us LoL
As long as it resolves the headset play issue, I'm okay with that gap knowing it may not being super resistant to water ingress. I don't really ride in the rain anyway. Thank you!!
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Got back from the local bike shop and he said the gap was pretty normal, so it “works”!
No rush to get it back but looking forward to when it does!
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Got back from the local bike shop and he said the gap was pretty normal, so it “works”!
No rush to get it back but looking forward to when it does!
Awesome, this is great news! Share a photo once finished.
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Got back from the local bike shop and he said the gap was pretty normal, so it “works”!
No rush to get it back but looking forward to when it does!
Any updates from the bike shop lol?
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Got back from the local bike shop and he said the gap was pretty normal, so it “works”!
No rush to get it back but looking forward to when it does!
Any updates? Some pics would be nice
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not back in my hands yet, i know when i dropped it off and showed him the internal cabling he had to do he surely put it to the bottom of his list... maybe next week!
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Hi Pat,
I ran the FSA ACR headset on my TanTan TT-X21, which is a clone of the VB-099. I'm not sure what the differences are between any of these open mould frames that run 1.5" to 1.5" headsets, but I can tell you, though, that there were no major issues running the full FSA ACR headset, even with the ACR top cover if wanted to. I would have preferred to dump the open mould handlebars too, but I did recognize the issue with running cables and hydraulic hoses with a full FSA ACR system.
Just thinking out loud here, but it looks like FSA routes the front brake hose through the compression plug to deal with the space issues with running everything down the front of the head tube and around the steerer. Other than space limitations, there's no inherent design reason why you couldn't try to cram everything down the front of the headtube, bypassing the compression plug route for the front hydraulic hose.
I don't think that would work too well, but if you are contemplating electronic shifting, especially SRAM, you could probably make it work.
Do it Pat! Do it for us!!!!