Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: patliean1 on May 10, 2022, 11:52:01 AM
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I also posted this in the VB-177 thread. Figured a brand new topic/thread would better raise awareness.
I have finally found an easy yet permanent fix for the headset play issue when using the separate handlebar/stem combo. Please bare with me as I'll do my best to be clear and concise. You do not need an FSA ACR setup, nor disconnect any hydraulic or shift cables.
#1 - This is NOT a design flaw on VeloBuild's behalf. The issue lies in the particular C-Clip they supply, which sits in the middle between the upper headset bearing and the black metal bearing cap (dust cover).
#2 - VeloBuild's C-Clip uses two tabs in order to lock the headset cap into place. The supplied spacers also use these same little tabs/knobs in order to lock the stem in place as well. The problem with these tabs is they are just deep enough (when locked into place) to subsequently recess the metal headset cap (dust cover) too far into the headset bearing. This is why there's always headset play no matter how tight the compression top cap bolt is. Those little tabs are about 0.5-1.0mm tall which, when recessed into the dust cover, make all the difference.
#3 - The solution? Using a C-Clip that DOES NOT have those little tabs. Using a totally flat C-Clip means the headset cap/dust cover will still be level/flush, but it wont recess into each other by the 0.5-1.0mm mentioned above. This also enables you to use a C-shaped shim if need be, although you should not need to. Not having the recessed headset cap is basically a shim in of itself since the headset cap will sit 1mm higher.
#4 - I found all of this out while building my Yoeleo gravel bike. I had the same headset play issue. Turns out Yoeleo's headset bearings for the top and bottom are slightly two different thicknesses. The thicker (red bearing) one needs to be on top, and I had them reverse. During troubleshooting Yoeleo send me a spare flat C-Clip, but the fix was simply switching the bearings around.
The Takeaway - Confirm the headset bearings are indeed the same size (they should be) and thickness for top and bottom. Buy/Order flat C-Clip for the top headset bearing. I no longer even needed to use a spacer above the compression plug top cap. Everything is flush, and no headset play even after a 30 mile ride earlier today on terrible Chicago roads.
Photo 1 - VeloBuild's supplied C-Clip with the two tabs
Photo 2 - The replacement flat C-Clip
Photo 3 - What the flat C-Clip looks like installed
Photo 4 - My final setup with no spacer above the stem top cap
EDIT - From the Carbonda 1056 thread: "In general these washers are between the slotted ring and the dust cover.
When you compress the bearings, the dust cover sometimes rub the top of the frame.
Adding one or more washers add some space to have only the seal making a light contact with the frame."
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Thanks for the the write up Pat.
Yeah, this issue plagued me with my TanTan X-21, which is a clone of the VB-099.
I had a couple of threads going on my workarounds, which included a couple of new headsets, FSA ACR among them. I feel like there are just a number of design flaws with these Chinese head tubes that take threadless headsets. For me, the biggest one is all the slop around stack height for the different headset bearing/lock ring combinations.
In the end, getting the stack height right with the appropriate number of microspacers was the trick. Yes, the microspacers need to be modified, but the modification is a 2 minute job with a fine tooth blade on a hacksaw and block of wood for an entire stack of spacers. I settled on the FSA ACR bearings and lock ring, with the stock head set cover and spacers, mostly because that combination felt the smoothest and looked the cleanest. But, honestly, with the right number of microspacers, any combination of components solved the head set play issue.
On a separate but related note, when I built up my Giant Propel frame, it came with a microspacer that fit their overdrive 2 steerer tube. My experience with my Chinese frame definitely helped a lot with setting up the Propel's head set, but it was a nice touch from Giant to include the spacer.
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"#4 - I found all of this out while building my Yoeleo gravel bike. I had the same headset play issue. Turns out Yoeleo's headset bearings for the top and bottom are slightly two different thicknesses. The thicker (red bearing) one needs to be on top, and I had them reverse. During troubleshooting Yoeleo send me a spare flat C-Clip, but the fix was simply switching the bearings around."
Just a note specifically for #4...
Yeah, TanTan sent the same red and blue bearings, but I can't remember which one was thicker. I did notice the different thicknesses though, but just ran with one combination, I think thicker on the bottom and thinner up top, before switching them around.
In the end, it didn't matter. It was still pretty sloppy either way, which is why I tried different headsets with different bearing thicknesses. Just wish I would have known about microspacers from the get go. I finally took it in to my LBS. The tech there suggested the microspacers, thankfully.
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"#4 - I found all of this out while building my Yoeleo gravel bike. I had the same headset play issue. Turns out Yoeleo's headset bearings for the top and bottom are slightly two different thicknesses. The thicker (red bearing) one needs to be on top, and I had them reverse. During troubleshooting Yoeleo send me a spare flat C-Clip, but the fix was simply switching the bearings around."
Just a note specifically for #4...
Yeah, TanTan sent the same red and blue bearings, but I can't remember which one was thicker. I did notice the different thicknesses though, but just ran with one combination, I think thicker on the bottom and thinner up top, before switching them around.
In the end, it didn't matter. It was still pretty sloppy either way, which is why I tried different headsets with different bearing thicknesses. Just wish I would have known about microspacers from the get go. I finally took it in to my LBS. The tech there suggested the microspacers, thankfully.
I wonder if crescent shaped "C" shims are easily available to purchase. Regular shims are fine for externally routed cables, but obviously won't work with internal cables without disconnecting them first. Beings able to simply "slot" them in place would be a game changer.
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That would be nice, but, honestly, they aren't difficult to modify at all. Like I said, I just took the blade I used to cut my steerer tube, taped a stack of microspacers together, set them on the edge of a block of wood, then hacked out the notch. Five minute job tops, including prep time. And, yeah definitely a game changer for me anyway.
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I also posted this in the VB-177 thread. Figured a brand new topic/thread would better raise awareness.
Thank you Patliean1 for all the troubleshooting and your detailed assessment.
We have been working on resolving the headset play issue some customers with the separate bar/stem combo have experienced and are happy to announce that the issue has been resolved by increasing the thickness of the C shaped bearing press by 0.5mm.
All shipments since April have been sent with the new bearing press and we have also sent it to existing customers that have been affected and it has resolved their issues.
If you have the separate handlebar/stem and are experiencing this issue please contact us for a new C shaped bearing press by email at info@velobuild.com
New customer orders of the separate handlebar/stem will also include split spacers.
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Hi Guys,
hope this is the right section here. I am very happy with my x21 except the sloppy front end.
To solve the problem I just bought a „The one“ stem/bar and a FSA ACR System.
Unfortunally the Stem doesn‘t fit on the knobbles of the acr top cap.
The C-Ring of the ACR System looks good, so i want to use this one - but how can I install „the one“ on this system?
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#3 - The solution? Using a C-Clip that DOES NOT have those little tabs. Using a totally flat C-Clip means the headset cap/dust cover will still be level/flush, but it wont recess into each other by the 0.5-1.0mm mentioned above. This also enables you to use a C-shaped shim if need be, although you should not need to. Not having the recessed headset cap is basically a shim in of itself since the headset cap will sit 1mm higher.
Thanks for the detailed assesment! I have a 177 with the one piece bar/stem and have the same headset play issue. May I ask where you sourced the clip? Did you get it from Velobuild? I've emailed back and forth with Chris for some time now and he hasn't sent me one of their new designs. I'd be more than happy to look elsewhere and purchase my own if it's available somewhere!
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Thank you Patliean1 for all the troubleshooting and your detailed assessment.
We have been working on resolving the headset play issue some customers with the separate bar/stem combo have experienced and are happy to announce that the issue has been resolved by increasing the thickness of the C shaped bearing press by 0.5mm.
All shipments since April have been sent with the new bearing press and we have also sent it to existing customers that have been affected and it has resolved their issues.
Interesting. I received a VB-R-177 ordered in May with the old-style C-ring (thinner, with the prongs) and have not been shipped a replacement ring. I will email you.
The C-ring supplied has the headset play issue described by others here. The problem is two things:
1. The prongs on the C-ring prevent compression of the system
2. The half-round form of the C-ring allows play. It should be a 270 degree sector minimum.
Also the headset supplied had only one 52mm bearing plus compression ring and a smaller bearing with compression ring and circular dustcap.
I have ordered an FSA ACR to compare.
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Thanks for the detailed assesment! I have a 177 with the one piece bar/stem and have the same headset play issue. May I ask where you sourced the clip? Did you get it from Velobuild? I've emailed back and forth with Chris for some time now and he hasn't sent me one of their new designs. I'd be more than happy to look elsewhere and purchase my own if it's available somewhere!
Update: there was a bit of miscommunication/language barrier but it turns out Chris had already sent me the new half ring along with a warranty saddle, but USPS dropped the ball and returned to sender. Not long after touching base, I received the package as he had already resent it.
That being said, I haven’t needed to install the new half ring since I found a combo of compression plug/spacer/top cap that has removed any headset play and has worked well for the last few hundred miles. I don’t see the play coming back, but if it does I’ll go in and replace the half ring. This is the only issue I’ve had with my 177. I think a minor issue like this is to be expected with open molds and are solved with a little diy know-how.
I appreciate reading everyone’s experience with open molds and Velobuild, good or bad. Personally, I’m happy with Velobuild’s follow-up and service considering they’re on the other side of the planet and not a major manufacturer. They are certainly better and more helpful than the maker of my gravel bike, which is a local US company and based quite literally 20 minutes away from me.
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I can further the debate for the need of a new style of compression ring or perhaps a 270° compression ring. Went as far to file down the "tabs" on the original (new style) c-ring along with adding 4, 0.25mm micro spacers and still had substantial headset play. Currently awaiting new Deda 270° c-ring to verify if this will work.
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Issues with the vb-168... Went as far to file down the "tabs" on the original (new style) VB c-ring, using a 2" compression plug and adding 4, 0.25mm micro spacers, still had substantial headset play. Currently awaiting new Deda 270° c-ring to verify if this will work
Update:
The new 270° round Deda c-ring work. I tried both, the Deda 36° and 45° angle. Both work.
The original VB half-ring was ~1.12cm wide and had quite a gap between the head tube and headset assembly.
I reduced the Deda by 3.76mm (from the top!) and sanded til smooth. Since the Deda were plastic I used 1, 0.25mm micro spacer as a protective layer. Now there are no gaps by the head tube and the assembly is flush.
In conclusion, IMO the more diameter of the 270° round c-ring creates more surface for proper compression.
See attached... The VB original is center sans "tabs".
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(http://)I had local machinist make me a couple of identical replacement spacers I specified how much thicker I want them. It was not expensive. k.dayconcepts@gmail.com, no I am not making any commision just providing an option.
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Does anyone has a link where one can buy a compatible compression ring, preferably in Europe? I still have headset play which makes me very nervous while riding and don't seem to find a way how to resolve it (tried very long compression plug, steerer is cut adequately).
Also what I noticed when I tighten the top cap it slides bit to the back - does anyone have the same situation maybe? Could it be a hint what I'm doing wrong?
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@Sikter89
have you read this thread? There may be some solutions there that werent mentioned here
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3781.msg38354.html#msg38354
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Sooo, just as Chewy4u before me, I solved the issue with Deda compression ring, which I bought here:
https://dedaelementi.com/compression-ring-dcr-headset
The shipping was 3x the cost of the ring, but it did work. Well, let's not get ahead of myself, I did not test it outside yet, but the obvious play I got with the original C-ring is totally gone.
What I did with the Deda C-ring is removed the amount of material from the top to match the original C-ring in height, and then just a little bit more (less than 0.5mm). You can test this if you lay them side by side on the table and then they should be the same height. I wish I had taken a little bit more material since I still have a small gap between the frame and the headset cover. I have not used any additional microspacers.
I tried to remove the excess material myself with the saw and files but it was hard and I could not get it to be perfectly straight. I just took it to a local key maker shop that had a spinning grinding tool - it took him 10 minutes to finish.
I think what Chewy4u said makes sense - the original C-ring just has too small of a radius which does not fix the fork steerer tube in place. This is a fault by Velobuild and they should fix this I think. I lost almost 3 weeks fixing this in which I could not ride my new bike. Hope Chris from Velobuild sees this and makes sure to fix it for the next buyers.
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I received the C clip without tiny notches as mentioned earlier by vb. However the problem now is that the C clip is thicker than it needs to sit the cap flush to frame. With the clip in place my cap sits about 1.5mm above the frame. Without the clip its perfectly flush. I'm thinking of doing one of following two :
1. Sand some portion of the inside of the cap that sits on C clip.
2. Sand C clip itself and make it thinner.
Or I would go and look for a thin C clip at LBS (not many hopes). Attaching pictures of the clip, cap with clip showing the gap and finally cap without clip showing flush fitment - in that order.
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There is one available on Aliexpress
if I measured correctly it should be 3.55mm thick meaning 3.55mm of material above the bearing.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004250632544.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.69031802v6R3BF
You could measure yours, how much it sticks up above the bearing.
I would not really recommend sanding down either the ring or the headset cap. Although if you have a drill press you could! My headset cap only had a 2mm deep cut from the beginning, I also had a compression ring slightly too thick so I used my drill press to evenly remove 1mm of material just like a CNC machine
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Thanks for the link! I looked at this and it's about 6.1mm thick while the one supplied by VB is 11.1mm and if my calculations are right I need something about 8.5mm thick overall. Sorry to bother you but when you say 3.55mm of material above the bearing, which section of the ring do you mean? Attaching pics of two sections of my ring, it's kinda hard to explain lol
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Haha no worries, you tried ;D You measured everything but the important part haha
Try this :) Both like the way you did it and then also by putting the compression ring on the bearing then you can measure from the bearing shield to the top. See if you get the same measurements by doing both methods.
Apart from that, that compression ring looks really nice to be honest. Is it an upgraded version by Velobuild? It looks nice because the sleeve goes through the bearing meaning it gives more contact area on the steerer tube! Really nice. As you said, the one I linked is very thin but should do the work. Okay maybe not SUPER nice because it is very open in the front.. But I like the thickness
There is also this ring, it wont fit your headset spacer but it is a really nice ring as it gives maximum support on the steerer. Although this one is thicker, 8mm in total and 4.5mm above the bearing (the other one was much slimmer at 3.55mm).
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002628785249.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.2cf21802GaXbPi
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Oh dear :D okay thanks again. That section is 2.9mm thick which means the Alix ring is probably not going to help. Also measured both the bearings just in case they were of different thicknesses but they aren’t so no dice there either.
And yes the C ring is really nicely made..has a piano black finish and nice heft to it. Good machining. It came supplied with the frameset by VB.
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Oh dear :D okay thanks again. That section is 2.9mm thick which means the Alix ring is probably not going to help. Also measured both the bearings just in case they were of different thicknesses but they aren’t so no dice there either.
And yes the C ring is really nicely made..has a piano black finish and nice heft to it. Good machining. It came supplied with the frameset by VB.
Hmm 2.9mm is something I haven't seen before, that is very slim.
You could file it down but make sure you do it evenly. Like on a table top or if you have a grinder tool.
Before you do anything, assemble everything again, make sure the bearings are seated nicely in the frame and that the races in the frames is clean, Chinese frames have tendency to look kinda messy. Then put on your C ring, headset cap, stem and top and put preload on everything which will push/pull it all together. If you tighten it down and still have a noticeable gap then go ahead and file it down :)
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Yup. Going to assemble whole thing and see although I almost did it once and that’s when I noticed the gap. Also realized that sanding C ring isn’t going to help. It has to be inner side of the cap which rests on C ring and sanding that particular area evenly is going to be difficult since its in a recess. Hmmm now I gotta think on taking external help.
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Did you ask velobuild what they think?
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Sent a mail, yet to hear back from them.
In the mean time as I explore options apart from sanding the other thread about headset play has given another idea - adding micro spacers. If I find one with exact thickness as the gap between cap and frame it would be great or add multiple thin ones.
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I am also trying to install the headset in the VBR 177 frame with the integrated handlebar. My compression plug keeps pulling up after few kilometers of riding, resulting in headset play. My C-ring is the new one. I have tighten the compression plug to 8 Nm, added carbon gripping paste between fork tube and stem. When I tight the headset cap, everything is ok. Then after few km of riding, the headset play comes up again.
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I am also trying to install the headset in the VBR 177 frame with the integrated handlebar. My compression plug keeps pulling up after few kilometers of riding, resulting in headset play. My C-ring is the new one. I have tighten the compression plug to 8 Nm, added carbon gripping paste between fork tube and stem. When I tight the headset cap, everything is ok. Then after few km of riding, the headset play comes up again.
Tighten a bit more the compression plug until it stays in place, dry without carbon paste.
Try maybe another one if you have.
And maybe tighten a bit more the stem on the steerer tube too.
Normally once tightened you could even remove the headset cap and it shouldn't move.
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Sent a mail, yet to hear back from them.
In the mean time as I explore options apart from sanding the other thread about headset play has given another idea - adding micro spacers. If I find one with exact thickness as the gap between cap and frame it would be great or add multiple thin ones.
From time to time a 0.25 spacer or two, between the compression ring and dust seal, are necessary to have the dust seal flush with the frame.
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From time to time a 0.25 spacer or two, between the compression ring and dust seal, are necessary to have the dust seal flush with the frame.
Got you, thanks much!
From what I'm seeing I need at least four 0.25mm spacers. A quick Google search led me to 1.2, 1.5mm spacers too. May be a good idea to just order multiple thin ones with varying degrees of thickness. Any particular brand that is a perfect fit that you know?
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This dude fabricated his own. Maybe ask if he can have one more done to sell?
https://www.facebook.com/groups/243368427271925/posts/625391669069597/
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An update on dust cap and headtube gap. Copying my response from GF002 thread -
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Also an update on C ring and dust cap fitting about 1.7mm above the top of head tube - from a machinist friend I got my dust cap/base sanded off by a 0.6-0.7mm on the inside (outer part is untouched but the part that rests on C ring is now deeper by 0.7mm) this has solved the problem of unnecessarily large gap.
The dust cap now sits just about 1mm above head tube. Since it rotates, I didn’t want go any more deeper or add spacers. There is no headset play after tightening the top cap.
Anyone having same issue - this something that I won’t recommend doing at home with Dremel (like I originally thought and quickly abandoned ship).
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This last part, thanks to Eucalyptus.
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An update on dust cap and headtube gap. Copying my response from GF002 thread -
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Also an update on C ring and dust cap fitting about 1.7mm above the top of head tube - from a machinist friend I got my dust cap/base sanded off by a 0.6-0.7mm on the inside (outer part is untouched but the part that rests on C ring is now deeper by 0.7mm) this has solved the problem of unnecessarily large gap.
The dust cap now sits just about 1mm above head tube. Since it rotates, I didn’t want go any more deeper or add spacers. There is no headset play after tightening the top cap.
Anyone having same issue - this something that I won’t recommend doing at home with Dremel (like I originally thought and quickly abandoned ship).
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This last part, thanks to Eucalyptus.
Very glad you got it sorted in the end! A friend with the right tools is always good to have, I have asked for help on many occasions from people better suited for the job :) ;D
Thanks for the mention too, made my day!
As a matter of fact I actually just finished my headset dilemma today ! What a coincidence. I have shared it on Weightweenies with pictures of how it started and what the finished product looks like. It has been hours and hours of filing and trying to get the right fit with various parts.
https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=171366
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Very glad you got it sorted in the end! A friend with the right tools is always good to have, I have asked for help on many occasions from people better suited for the job :) ;D
Thanks for the mention too, made my day!
As a matter of fact I actually just finished my headset dilemma today ! What a coincidence. I have shared it on Weightweenies with pictures of how it started and what the finished product looks like. It has been hours and hours of filing and trying to get the right fit with various parts.
https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=171366
Great work but that is just so much trouble for something that should be so simple.
Bike and component manufactures need to get together and actually come up with a standard, not only to make thinks simpler but also to ensure safety. We are dealing with the most crucial/important part of the bike which is the fork/cockpit interface.
My 177 is working great with the Deda Superbox but I´m always worried if this solution is safe long term, will get my back checked by the mechanic next week to see if the carbon steerer has any marks. I don´t think I´m going back to big bike brands but this little details with stem/steerer in chinese direct brands need to fixed.
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Heads up:
FSA / Full Speed Ahead is having a Black Friday sale currently. 25% off everything.
Been using the NO.69/SRS headset and cover on my VB177. Works very well.
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Heads up:
FSA / Full Speed Ahead is having a Black Friday sale currently. 25% off everything.
Been using the NO.69/SRS headset and cover on my VB177. Works very well.
25% only in the US shop... :'(
Anyway, is that suitable for the integrated handlebar?
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Been using the NO.69/SRS headset and cover on my VB177. Works very well.
Hi Patty,
stem slammed, as usual? Would love to see a picture of how the round NO.69/SRS headset interfaces with the oval shaped Velobuild stem.
If you were to use spacers, these would be round, I assume - not sure this integrates nicely from a clean shape perspective?
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Would love to see a picture of how the round NO.69/SRS headset interfaces with the oval shaped Velobuild stem.
I'm using my own stem because I need a 130mm -17 :o
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Adding to this elder thread as this is an ongoing issue for me on my VB-R-099.
I requested the updated C-clip from Chris at Velobuild. Per his statement the R-099 was not affected while I certainly had an issue with headset play.
Re-did the cabling, while doing so changed back to compressionless housing and put in the new C-clip.
Still could not get rid of the headset play, while trying to adjust it I realized another issue with the external stem and handlebar combo.
When you tighten the cap bolt, the cap actually starts deforming and moving side ways - so most of the bolt tension is wasted in the top cap and not in compressing the actual headset.
Cut and glued together some washers, which allowed compressing the system and removing the play from the headset.
Currently freezing and snowing over here, so missing test rides if this finally solved the issue.
My bottom line: the headset design has quite a few tolerances, removing all of them requires careful assembly and potentially changing C-clip or adding washers / shims.
imo the steam design and top cap are not sufficient to remove the headset play, I believe many people resolved it with actually swapping the stem to FSA or deda systems.
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FSA NO.69/SRS headset allows you to use whatever handlebar/stem combo you want.
While it's not the best looking system ever, it is the most pragmatic solution. You don't even need the supplied headset bearings just the c-ring and headset cover to route the cables. Price appears to be half off.
https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/no-69-srs (https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/no-69-srs)
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FSA NO.69/SRS headset allows you to use whatever handlebar/stem combo you want.
While it's not the best looking system ever, it is the most pragmatic solution. You don't even need the supplied headset bearings just the c-ring and headset cover to route the cables. Price appears to be half off.
https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/no-69-srs (https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/no-69-srs)
Hi Patty,
true, swapping the headset (mostly the C-ring and headset cover) is part or an option of solving the headset play issue.
If you allow, the "downside" of the NO.69/SRS is that you have to use round spacers on top (you don't, stem slammed ;)) which changes the appearance compared to the oval spacers of other integrated solutions.
But my point really was: you will also have to swap out the stem, Velobuild's stem cap is too weak to allow removing the play from the system.
Or, if you keep the Velobuild stem: use an alternative and improved method than the supplied stem cap when adjusting headset play.
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That stem cap is definitely an issue. I wish they stuck with simpler round cap instead of a fancy aero shape. Mine doesn't (never) fit flush even after tightening. My headset actually came with a round cap but it doesn't fit. I guess it's just a standard kit that they get from somewhere and slap their own designed cap.
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Got my VBR 168 mid-jan.
C clip comes without those knobs now, and the compression plug comes with both the aero shape cape and a round cap. The aero-shaped one seems different than the two bolt style I've seen in other people's pics. I ended up just using the round cap because it fit flush better.
No headset play, cut my tube about 4mm below the hand bar clamp.
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Got my VBR 168 mid-jan.
C clip comes without those knobs now, and the compression plug comes with both the aero shape cape and a round cap. The aero-shaped one seems different than the two bolt style I've seen in other people's pics. I ended up just using the round cap because it fit flush better.
No headset play, cut my tube about 4mm below the hand bar clamp.
Interesting, thanks for sharing. Separate stem and handlebar or integrated? Would be great to see pictures.
I think somebody already mentioned this in the groupset post in the context of L-TWOO:
On the one hand it is great to see problems being addressed and fixes getting implemented. But ongoing design changes without tracking revisions or clear communication is certainly a chillenge....
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C clip comes without those knobs now, and the compression plug comes with both the aero shape cape and a round cap. The aero-shaped one seems different than the two bolt style I've seen in other people's pics. I ended up just using the round cap because it fit flush better.
Pictures please! I will be down for a round cap if it fits better.
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Here you go.
The c clip is identical just without the knobs so not going to bother taking it apart for a pic.
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Hello everyone,
to tighten the headset I just put a .25 mm metal shim on top of the c clip. The ring is so soft, that You do not need to cut anything out, the cables just press the ring against the fork.
Here is the link to the thing I bought: https://www.ebay.com/itm/143987321323
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I am also suffering from the headset play issue and ordered 0.25mm microspacers, hoping this will resolve my problem. But because the c-ring has two tabs (see attached pictured), I wonder how this microspacers will fit onto them ? Do I need to drill two holes in the microspacers in order to fit them onto the two tabs?
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I've had the new C ring for some time now but forgot I did and hadn't installed it on my GF-002 until a couple of days ago. Before with the old C ring I could compress the headset fine when tightening it but after one ride it became loose again. I've only done one longer/rougher gravel ride with the new C ring but so far so good! Headset is still compressed and hasn't come loose like it used it right away.
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I am also suffering from the headset play issue and ordered 0.25mm microspacers, hoping this will resolve my problem. But because the c-ring has two tabs (see attached pictured), I wonder how this microspacers will fit onto them ? Do I need to drill two holes in the microspacers in order to fit them onto the two tabs?
I think you have the old C ring and could benefit from using the new one which has a smaller cut out and no tabs. If you email VB they should sort you out.
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I think you have the old C ring and could benefit from using the new one which has a smaller cut out and no tabs. If you email VB they should sort you out.
Do you have the old vs new picture? I think I have the new C ring but that was in November 2022. Is there another revision after that?
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Do you have the old vs new picture? I think I have the new C ring but that was in November 2022. Is there another revision after that?
Here you are, old on the left, updated on the right. Height 10.6mm vs. 11.0mm, on the second picture you can see the new version with less cutout, improving the tilting of the old version.
As mentioned in many posts: this is not only the compression ring, the separate stem and its top cap have an issue, as well, there were issues with compression plugs but also tolerances of Velobuild frames come into play (IMO).
In the end the customer has to solve for one or more of these issues...painful but good luck!
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I have the revised ring. I was wondering if there was another update to it. It's been out for quite some time but Hazzers reply made me think if it got updated again.
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I think you have the old C ring and could benefit from using the new one which has a smaller cut out and no tabs. If you email VB they should sort you out.
I received the microspacers today, so I dismantled my headset and it seems like I have the revised compression ring (without the tabs). I installed three microspacers and the problem is solved now. I have cut a piece from the microspacers so they fit on the compession ring.
So it seems that the problem is not resolved with the new compression ring. So my guess is that maybe the dimensions of the compression ring are not consistent, or the dimensions of the steerer tube are not consistent... Velobuild really needs to do a thorough root cause analysis on this issue!!!
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Here you go.
The c clip is identical just without the knobs so not going to bother taking it apart for a pic.
test post bcs. i cant load page 4 of this thread. Please pm me if you are able to see this reply
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Same here. I cant load page 4 of this forum topic when I'm logged in. I always get an error message. What is strange is that I do can load page 4 when I'm logged out.
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TEST
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EMPTY POST TO CREATE NEW PAGE
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EMPTY POST TO CREATE NEW PAGE
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EMPTY POST TO CREATE NEW PAGE
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EMPTY POST TO CREATE NEW PAGE
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Page 4 is not working, feel free to add, comment, reply,...from here
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Good working getting to page 5! Though I think the newer framesets that VB shipped out in 2023 all have the new cut out C ring that solves this problem. Mine was fixed after the new C ring.