Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: spcycle on June 29, 2022, 02:32:10 AM
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Dear All:
Have a nice day.
SP-G056 has finished sample production and testing, and we will start mass production next.
Now share some picture and information to this forum members.
Really thanks the supporting for all of you.
Any interesting and pre-order of this frame, feel free to contact us at any time.
info@lc2000.com.cn
By the way, we also accpet the customized mold production and painting job work.
For this model some inforamtion listed:
Bottom Bracket: T47
Headset Size：Top 1-1/2 (52mm) Down 1-1/2(52mm)
Seatpost: 27.2mm
Cable : All Routing Internal
Max Tire Size: 700x45C or 650Bx2.1"
Weight: frame 1050+/-50g, fork 430+/-15g, seatpost 205+/-10g, handlebar 365+/-15g.
Features: Compatible with regular road or dedicated Gravel front derailleurs
If anyone has the advice or idea for this model, feel free to reflect to us.
Many thanks.
David
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David - I sent an email. What is pricing in USD?
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David - I sent an email. What is pricing in USD?
Dear Friend, pre-order price 518usd, Shipping cost is not included. thank you
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It would be nice if has additional cage mounting points at the bottom of the downtube.
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It would be nice if has additional cage mounting points at the bottom of the downtube.
Yes, we will add bottle cage mounting points to the down tube. thank you
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Adding an option for external cabling (going in the down tube instead of through stem) would make other handlebars useful.
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Adding an option for external cabling (going in the down tube instead of through stem) would make other handlebars useful.
Full hidden cable design is the trend, this frame only supports all internal cables. thank you
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I’m glad the T47 BB is finally adopted! Still the geometry is not racy enough for me.. really good looking frame though.
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I’m glad the T47 BB is finally adopted! Still the geometry is not racy enough for me.. really good looking frame though.
SP-G056 is a light, reactive, and easy-to-handle bike with racing-comfort geometries, and able to adapt to the multiple uses required of a gravel bike.
the geometries that allow a high level of comfort, without sacrificing reactivity and performance. The head tube, with a more open angle, ensures riding quality and stability also on the most difficult tracks. On the other hand, the rear triangle was designed to have a more distinct response to vertical stress, absorbing thus great part of the vibrations generated by the ground imperfections.
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SP-G056 is a light, reactive, and easy-to-handle bike with racing-comfort geometries, and able to adapt to the multiple uses required of a gravel bike.
the geometries that allow a high level of comfort, without sacrificing reactivity and performance. The head tube, with a more open angle, ensures riding quality and stability also on the most difficult tracks. On the other hand, the rear triangle was designed to have a more distinct response to vertical stress, absorbing thus great part of the vibrations generated by the ground imperfections.
I’m sure its a great bike! Although im looking for a lower stack and a shorter chainstay.
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Dear Friend, pre-order price 518usd, Shipping cost is not included. thank you
Hi there, I'm interested in this frame too. Does this price include the handlebars?
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Adding an option for external cabling (going in the down tube instead of through stem) would make other handlebars useful.
Would strongly agree with having an option for external cable routing. Even just having the simple plate cover /Di2 port / cable port option present on other frames would be a big benefit for me. I've personally turned down many frames due to being forced to go full internal.
I mean, how hard can it be? Just cut a few holes, mount a few cable ports, and you've suddenly greatly increased your market size :) eg. the Carbonda CFR 1056 offers the option to route internal/external, and the last I've heard, everyone's happy with how their cables are run.
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Hi there, I'm interested in this frame too. Does this price include the handlebars?
Yes, this price include the handlebars.
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Would strongly agree with having an option for external cable routing. Even just having the simple plate cover /Di2 port / cable port option present on other frames would be a big benefit for me. I've personally turned down many frames due to being forced to go full internal.
I mean, how hard can it be? Just cut a few holes, mount a few cable ports, and you've suddenly greatly increased your market size :) eg. the Carbonda CFR 1056 offers the option to route internal/external, and the last I've heard, everyone's happy with how their cables are run.
We can't cut holes in the frame. But a headset cover is being designed. All cables will enter the frame from the holes in the headset cover.
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We can't cut holes in the frame. But a headset cover is being designed. All cables will enter the frame from the holes in the headset cover.
More bike brands need to offer this...
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Dear All:
Have a nice day.
The G056 Carbon gravel bike frame has been mass-produced and sold on AliExpress. Anyone who is interested can view the frame and order via the following link.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256804500329752.html?spm=5261.ProductManageOnline.0.0.12fe4edfT1PM7E&gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt
best regard
David
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More bike brands need to offer this...
Opening holes in the frame down tube requires modifying the frame mold. This is cumbersome. We designed this headset cover. So the frame can achieve semi-internal cable routing.
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Hi, has anybody got info about this frame? Any ounted bike real photos or so on? I am interested due to his price... Any idea about spcycles quality?
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Opening holes in the frame down tube requires modifying the frame mold. This is cumbersome. We designed this headset cover. So the frame can achieve semi-internal cable routing.
Don't you think water will enter very easily and rust prematurely the bearings?
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Opening holes in the frame down tube requires modifying the frame mold. This is cumbersome. We designed this headset cover. So the frame can achieve semi-internal cable routing.
Hi, I bought your frameset via Aliexpress. Looks really nice. Can't wait for build and firs ride.
What is the max size of chainring for 1x drivetrains?
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Can you share some pics? What size did you get?
Hi, I bought your frameset via Aliexpress. Looks really nice. Can't wait for build and firs ride.
What is the max size of chainring for 1x drivetrains?
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Can I see the C ring that sits above headset bearing? How do cables go into the frame from that dust cap with 4 cable inlets
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Can you share some pics? What size did you get?
(https://scontent.flcj1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.15752-9/317611490_2264249180419837_4636332369253733522_n.jpg?_nc_cat=103&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=ae9488&_nc_ohc=uNN23oIeCr0AX8pAcyq&_nc_ht=scontent.flcj1-1.fna&oh=03_AdQswtGXi4zjwUfPu4Sm8rqEzlMaNAwww7sFS_GKqzs1GA&oe=63B9490A)
Size Medium + 420/100 mm handlebar. I'm 5'11" or 180cm with 83 cm inseam. I've choose medium because it's close to my carbonda 696 in 54 cm size.
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Great!! Looks really nice!
Thanks a lot!
(https://scontent.flcj1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.15752-9/317611490_2264249180419837_4636332369253733522_n.jpg?_nc_cat=103&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=ae9488&_nc_ohc=uNN23oIeCr0AX8pAcyq&_nc_ht=scontent.flcj1-1.fna&oh=03_AdQswtGXi4zjwUfPu4Sm8rqEzlMaNAwww7sFS_GKqzs1GA&oe=63B9490A)
Size Medium + 420/100 mm handlebar. I'm 5'11" or 180cm with 83 cm inseam. I've choose medium because it's close to my carbonda 696 in 54 cm size.
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Can I see the C ring that sits above headset bearing? How do cables go into the frame from that dust cap with 4 cable inlets
Please see the attachment. thank you
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Please see the attachment. thank you
Thank you for the pictures. The compression ring (C-ring) that sits on top of the bearing seems to have larger than necessary cutout for cables - any issues with headset play when braking or hitting a pothole? The dustcap looks good though.
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I couldn't find your aliexpress link. May I know your wechat contact?
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Are any of you using these frame? I'd like to build a rig for gravel / unsupported bikepacking trip and this frame is one of the candidate.
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I just ordered one for my next gravel project.......now just need to wait....patiently.
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Looks identical to the Velobuild GF-003 / TanTan Seraph GR-047, and also seems to be "inspired by" the Wilier Jena (geometry is the exact same).
Although confusingly, Velobuild says T800 carbon, whereas this and TanTan say T1000 carbon.
Only noticed as I've been considering the GF-003 for a few weeks now, mostly for endurance road / light gravel, though I haven't worked up to pulling the trigger yet.
On Velobuild's Instagram, they have one picture of someone who built out a GF-003: https://www.instagram.com/p/Co-4Q9sOG-d/
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Yes also stumble with the Willier Jena. Only the seat tube entrance on the frame is more "aero"|modern looking (for my taste at least) on the G056, the front derailleur hanger and the fact it has no side holes for cables as Jena is not Inside Cables only.
But the rest is dead on :) I really like the frame look. After my paintjob hopefully will like it even more :D
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Please see the attachment. thank you
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3739.0;attach=13469;image)
That C-ring will cause you trouble. It too open and too stiff. You will have a bad time, guaranteed. It'll never feel tight, and it will start to creek.
Please offer a better solution SP Cycle.
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already received my frame and its flawless .... bought on 3rd of May, arrived the 26th May to Portugal.....it will take a long time to build though. will start first with the custom paintjob.
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That C-ring will cause you trouble. It too open and too stiff. You will have a bad time, guaranteed. It'll never feel tight, and it will start to creek.
Please offer a better solution SP Cycle.
OK, so this is true. I have the Velobuild GF-003 (very similar I guess) and it is impossible to tighten the headset because there is too much room between the C-ring and the fork steerer tube... Could also be that the C-ring is too open. There is also significant amount of space between the c-ring and the headset cover:
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Sdcda78a107524a69bb664c9b9f676cb3J.jpg)
What's the solution to this problem? There remains a very small amount of play while using the front brake. :( There are some very thin spacers left over, but I can't see how they would solve this problem.
UPDATE: I bought the DEDA Nylon 270 degree compression ring. Hope this can solve the issue. Should I make this ring thinner?
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OK, so I fixed the situation pretty easily. I bought the Deda compression ring 45 degrees:
(https://www.tradeinn.com/f/13824/138244301/deda-compressie-ring-voor-dcr-systeem.jpg)
First I sawed the largest part of the top (circa 2mm I guess) with a hacksaw and then I ground the top down a smal bit at a time with a Dremel tool till it was at the correct height to compress correctly but also not leave a gap between the frame and the headset cover (there is still a very minimal gap say 0,5mm). I also used a Deda 70mm expander plug to get a bit more grip while tightening the top cap. No play anymore and a very cheap solution.
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Has anyone successfully build up the Velobuild GF003? I received mine last month, however the LBS indicated there's an obstruction inside the frame preventing the internal cable housing to get thru, I've no other details other than what they said.
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OK, so I fixed the situation pretty easily. I bought the Deda compression ring 45 degrees:
(https://www.tradeinn.com/f/13824/138244301/deda-compressie-ring-voor-dcr-systeem.jpg)
First I sawed the largest part of the top (circa 2mm I guess) with a hacksaw and then I ground the top down a smal bit at a time with a Dremel tool till it was at the correct height to compress correctly but also not leave a gap between the frame and the headset cover (there is still a very minimal gap say 0,5mm). I also used a Deda 70mm expander plug to get a bit more grip while tightening the top cap. No play anymore and a very cheap solution.
So you basically had to remove two mm from the upper side so that the spacers can lie flat? I am trying to imagine what you have done, as after building up mine I think the fork still has some play. Attached a picture of my build!
Also, I think I have mounted too many spacers, but I do not want to remove the cables from the handlebar (what a pain!). I assume spacers like this would work?
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/H24ca5f69d4c543cba593cd1cada897e6o.jpg)
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I just finished building up this frame and feel I should add my experience with this headset. I experienced the loose headset/steerer tube problem and was going to order the Deda compression ring as described in this thread but I found my problem was user error. I’d never set up a carbon steerer tube before and didn’t realize fork compression plug is inserted and tightened separately and before the headset preload is tightened. Once I tightened that up properly I no longer have any headset play. I bought the frame from Spcycle and had a good experience, frame arrived painted and packaged very well and was on time.
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I bought this frame, but with another brand called Ceccotti. Although the frame and fork are the same, they use different seatpost, headset and bottom bracket.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005599109789.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.156.21efcaa4mCJ5H1&gatewayAdapt=glo2bra
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Let’s us know what it’s like when you get it !
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Any idea if the max tire spec is accurate? I was hoping to fit some 650x2.2, but feel that might be pushing it.
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you have about 65-70mm space on the back where the tire goes through...for a 2.2 it should be more or less 55 mm worth of tire ....i think you might be pushing it...
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Well i've been so excited on the last weeks of riding that i forgot to post some pictures of my completed project......
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Well i've been so excited on the last weeks of riding that i forgot to post some pictures of my completed project......
Congratulations on great and beautiful build! Can You please share what size is it and how tall are you? Also would be nice if you can write how u like it, how fast is it, stiff, comfortable etc. :)
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I’m doing a build with this frame and have a possible issue with the T47 BB being very tight. I’ve never worked with this style, so I’m not sure what to expect. It gets hand tight after a couple threads and then really starts to get snug. The threads seem clean and it doesn’t seem to be cross threaded. Both sides are the same. I don’t want to get too rough with it and bind or break something. Any ideas?
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I’m doing a build with this frame and have a possible issue with the T47 BB being very tight. I’ve never worked with this style, so I’m not sure what to expect. It gets hand tight after a couple threads and then really starts to get snug. The threads seem clean and it doesn’t seem to be cross threaded. Both sides are the same. I don’t want to get too rough with it and bind or break something. Any ideas?
I've run into this problem several times. These days, every frame I purchase from Alixpress, I wash out the bottom bracket threads using soapy water and a stiff nylon brush. Then I blow-dry the threads with a compressed air nozzle. All it takes is one small piece of metal in the threads to start the binding/cross-threading of a thread.
I spent about 2 hours one time on a threaded bottom bracket thread with a magnifying glass and a fine metal pick carefully restoring a thread where I had messed up the thread due to a fine metal filing that became embedded in the bottom bracket thread. The filing messed up the crest and was stuck in the thread root.
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Hi, I bought your frameset via Aliexpress. Looks really nice. Can't wait for build and firs ride.
What is the max size of chainring for 1x drivetrains?
So did u get your answer? I would like to fit 44t chainring with senicx gr2 crankset. You think it will fit?
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Attached image shows 6mm gap between frame chainstay and 42t chainring. I don’t know if 44 would fit for sure but I suspect it would.
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I've put down a order on this frame during the 11.11 sales, do any one know if there is a directmount compatible RD-hanger available for this frameset?
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Took delivery of my frameset today, bought from Ceccotti
Size XL, T-red
On a visual inspection it looks good, good paint job, no loose fibres in headset area and bearing seats looks clean. I'll see how it builds up.
Some weights:
Handlebar: 349gr
Fork:410gr
Seatpost: 196gr
Frame: 1190gr without seatpost hardware
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Anyone else have any reviews on feedback on this frame or the equivalent? Any headset problems?
The Ceccotti doesn't use the C shape washer from the pictures I have seen in their store?
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I am wondering why so many of the carbon gravel frames weight over 1KG these days. I don't get excited about a gravel frame unless it weighs less than 1000 grams. Plus, so many forks these days weight over 400 grams.
I like this frame, but is seems so heavy....
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I am wondering why so many of the carbon gravel frames weight over 1KG these days. I don't get excited about a gravel frame unless it weighs less than 1000 grams. Plus, so many forks these days weight over 400 grams.
I like this frame, but is seems so heavy....
They probably don't want to take any risk and just overbuild it...
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I am wondering why so many of the carbon gravel frames weight over 1KG these days. I don't get excited about a gravel frame unless it weighs less than 1000 grams. Plus, so many forks these days weight over 400 grams.
I like this frame, but is seems so heavy....
Many gravel frames are made to handle the higher loads of riding gravel and off-road. Also with mountings for fenders, bags, racks etc. put in to the equation combined with off-road use I think it's kinda fair that they weigh over 1kg theese days. If chasing grams, there are lightweight options like Spec. Crux, 825gr for a painted size 56 but that costs €3500 for a frameset here in Sweden.
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I am wondering why so many of the carbon gravel frames weight over 1KG these days. I don't get excited about a gravel frame unless it weighs less than 1000 grams. Plus, so many forks these days weight over 400 grams.
If you can find ANY gravel frame of less than 1 kg let me know. I have never seen one from the far east. Even the yoneleo G21 or whatever it is called that premiumly-priced brand weights around 1.3 kg in medium sizes and around 440 g the fork. So they basically weight all more or less the same.
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I would be worried if I saw a chiner gravel for less than a a KG. They all hover around around the 1.2kg mark probably for good reason
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I hesitate to call this a 'Chiner' bike since it's a Chinese brand name bike but it's less than 1kg and very lustworthy. I wish someone would come out with an open mold version.
https://www.pandapodium.cc/product/voicevelo-g-major-disc-brake-gravel-frameset/ (https://www.pandapodium.cc/product/voicevelo-g-major-disc-brake-gravel-frameset/)
(https://www.pandapodium.cc/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/WechatIMG274-1024x635.jpg)
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Nice frame, but the stack is so low. It is a pity chinese manufacturers only aim for such low stack bikes nowadays. It really pulls me off the market ...
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Just based on numbers on the geometry chart alone, I am a huge fan of the Voice Velo. This is another bike I would buy but wont because of overlap and the budget being eaten by custom ti bikes. I also think if the seatpost, routing and stem are nice enough its actually not a terrible price if the quality and the weight specs hold up to the press. The issue is lack of service and brand presence, but UDH and round seatpost take care of a good number of those problems.
Nice frame, but the stack is so low. It is a pity chinese manufacturers only aim for such low stack bikes nowadays. It really pulls me off the market ...
This is pushing me towards Chinese bikes. As a smaller rider I barely fit on most brand's race bikes without needing to size down to the smallest size because the stacks have gotten so tall. On gravel bikes its darn near impossible with most brands. I think there has been an interesting effect with the rise of youtubers and youtube fitters and some of their obsessions with saddle to bar drop at the cost of reduced reach causing people to size down. I see guys over 5'11" to 6ft tall on the same size bikes the pro women are racing on at 5'4" but with a stack of spacers and a 140mm stem. Meanwhile short guys like me needed the -12 degree 110mm stem slammed to fit on the SL7 and it was the only major bike brand bike that I could fit on at a size 52 because it was the only one that regular customers could get the pro level stem for. I ended up going the chinese Ti route in the long term for my road bike instead, but I am in the middle of surveyed proportions for a male of my height with "above average" hip mobility. Nothing crazy just 5'6" / 169cm.
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Ok, for me it is quite the opposite. I had to go custom because I find the head tube lengths way to small, and I could basically just use the tallest endurance frames (Canyon Endurance CF7, Specialized Roubaix, etc) comfortably. With the tallest chinese ones I have to use like 5cm spacers under my stem, otherwise the saddle-to-handlebar drop quickly goes over 10cm and it is too damn uncomfortable for long routes. My custom has a top tube of 54 cm, but then 175mm head tube and 600mm stack.
175cm tall here, but with 86cm inseam.
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I've put down a order on this frame during the 11.11 sales, do any one know if there is a directmount compatible RD-hanger available for this frameset?
Answering my self here., I got it right on the second attempt/order of a directmount hanger, so this is a buying tip for those of you with compatible RD:s and an interest going the directmount route.
I orderd https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005946829585.html?gps-id=pcStoreJustForYou&scm=1007.23125.137358.0&scm_id=1007.23125.137358.0&scm-url=1007.23125.137358.0&pvid=4f84ad9f-55e6-41d2-92bd-72a29fbd4629&_t=gps-id:pcStoreJustForYou,scm-url:1007.23125.137358.0,pvid:4f84ad9f-55e6-41d2-92bd-72a29fbd4629,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238110%231995&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21SEK%21472.80%2189.80%21%21%2144.49%218.45%21%402101e58b17085265557644453e9815%2112000034975814437%21rec%21SE%21173424834%21&spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.smartJustForYou_2004123779662.1005005946829585
You'll probably have to copy the link text and paste into your browser to get to the product, this bord does things with pasted links.
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Did the direct mount hanger make any difference compared to the normal one?
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Did the direct mount hanger make any difference compared to the normal one?
This is my winter build, we still have +1m of snow and -30C last weekend, a lot warmer 0C this weekend but still a month or two before outdoor season so no testrides yet.
My reasoning is, less joints = better shifting performance.
Probably marginal, and mostly a fixed idea on my part
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just received 2 G056 frames from sequel bike store, one size XS and other one S
i'm building it with sensah GRX hdr 12 speed and one with flat bar for my gf.
pics soon
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Hello, I am considering this frame (from Spcycle or Velobuild) and have some question about integrated headset.
In previous messages i've read something about issues on fork due to some compression component on the headset.
if someone has buoght recently this frame, do you had similar issues?
Thanks
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Hello, I am considering this frame (from Spcycle or Velobuild) and have some question about integrated headset.
In previous messages i've read something about issues on fork due to some compression component on the headset.
if someone has buoght recently this frame, do you had similar issues?
Thanks
I bought mine from ceccotti, no issues with the headset during assembly and everything feels ok on the garage floor, still some (winter) time until I can do a proper shakedown ride.
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Are you running electronic or mechanical groupset? Just wondering how it is to run 4 housing through the headtube/headset
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Are you running electronic or mechanical groupset? Just wondering how it is to run 4 housing through the headtube/headset
I'm running a 11speed di2, so just two hydraulic hoses and a di2 wire through the integrated handlebar and headset. I did a mechanical 105 for a friend on a similar headset/stem, routing and cutting was a PITA and the tight bends affected the shift performance.
Maybe going with external routing on handlebar & headset in combination with the external headset shim/adapter improves routing?
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Upgraded my wheels, realized I never actually posted pictures of the finished bike. This is with the new /deeper wheels, but I also have a cheaper set of 40mm Elite SLR wheels set up with more of a gravel tire. Well, it's nearly finished, I'm still waiting on new bar tape after pulling off what I used last year.
Absolutely love the green/ purplish chameleon paint job, it was exactly what I had imagined it would be.
Using an Ergon seatpost with a Fizik adaptive saddle, 9velo LV2.0 in 45/55mm, GP5000 STR 30mm, with a knockoff Deda Alanera integrated bar/stem. SRAM Force D1 shifters and D2 derailleurs.
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For those who have this frame (from Spcycle, Velobild or others,...) about sizing, I am 170 cm with 80 com insteam and 70 cm of saddle height on my mtb, usually run size M on all my bikes. Should size 54/M of this frame be ok for me?
Thanks
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I'm 185cm so I can't help you there (chose Large, for what it's worth), but I used the Wiler Jena sizing tool since the frame is pretty much identical.
https://www.wilier.com/en/bikes/gravel/jena
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here is mine in size M with sensah hdr 1x and wheels from peterscycles, soon i will update crankset with lexon carbon and oval chainring
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Mine just arrived today in Canada, one day short of 2 weeks from order time. Everything looks great apart from having to clean the threads on the BB on the non drive side and pant work looks excellent with no blemishes. FWIW bought the Ceccotti version from a different "store" on ALI (very well reviewed).
I ordered the L size and find its similar to the 56-57 CM bikes I have. It definitly feels smaller then a 58 CM Trek 920 that is my every day bike. The only mistake I made was ordering a handlebar with a too short of stem as I expected the size to be more like my 920.
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Mine just arrived today in Canada, one day short of 2 weeks from order time. Everything looks great apart from having to clean the threads on the BB on the non drive side and pant work looks excellent with no blemishes. FWIW bought the Ceccotti version from a different "store" on ALI (very well reviewed).
I ordered the L size and find its similar to the 56-57 CM bikes I have. It definitly feels smaller then a 58 CM Trek 920 that is my every day bike. The only mistake I made was ordering a handlebar with a too short of stem as I expected the size to be more like my 920.
You can compare the geometry here: https://bike-stats.de/geometrie_vergleich?Bike1=Trek_920_2020_58&Bike2=SPCYCLE_G056_2022_L
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You can compare the geometry here: https://bike-stats.de/geometrie_vergleich?Bike1=Trek_920_2020_58&Bike2=SPCYCLE_G056_2022_L
Thanks for that. The website confirmed my observations.
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Well i've been so excited on the last weeks of riding that i forgot to post some pictures of my completed project......
Hello can u tell me what cranks and bottom bracket did u use for your build?
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Hello can u tell me what cranks and bottom bracket did u use for your build?
Sure, i used a SRAM T47 DUB Bottom Bracket and the Rival AXS Crankset with Powermeter.
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Mine just arrived today in Canada, one day short of 2 weeks from order time. Everything looks great apart from having to clean the threads on the BB on the non drive side and pant work looks excellent with no blemishes. FWIW bought the Ceccotti version from a different "store" on ALI (very well reviewed).
I ordered the L size and find its similar to the 56-57 CM bikes I have. It definitly feels smaller then a 58 CM Trek 920 that is my every day bike. The only mistake I made was ordering a handlebar with a too short of stem as I expected the size to be more like my 920.
Hello! I'm from Canada as well and quite interested with the same frame!
Can you share the link where you purchased the frameset? TIA!
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Finally assembled the bike.
Size L, weight 8.2kg naked, 8.6kg ready to ride
I had a problem with the crankset and bb (token).
The spindle was to short. The solution was to get rid of preload adjuster and just put a spacer. Will probably change the crankset for sram force wide with power meter, as the senicx one has slightly big chainline. Chainring 44t.
- Wheels from yuanan with mana rotors and gravel thundero HD tires.
- Stem deda vinci - 17 with kovcelo 40cm handlebar with little flare.
- Hoods and brakes sram rival.
- Rd sram gx with garbaruk cage from Ali which makes is as light as xx1 version.
- Cassette sram eagle xx1 10-50 and chain also xx1.
- Saddle prologo scratch5 agx.
Bike is very comfortable and stable. Feels very good on descents and single tracks. On other hands feels slower then my previous bike - specialized Diverge e5 comp aluminum. But that one was basically a road plus/endurance bikes. I also had way better shape last year. Will see how much I like this bike inf few weeks.
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Hello! I'm from Canada as well and quite interested with the same frame!
Can you share the link where you purchased the frameset? TIA!
This is the like to the store. Unfortunately I think I am going to have to get another as I am finding it a bit big. I am 6' tall and bought the large but I am a bit too stretched out for my liking. I did a bit more painting to mine after I got it as well. It is a great riding frame with very few issues in the build up.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005599109789.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.40.2b0f1802lbPhcy
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Awsome paint job! Can you tell a bit more how did you make it? What was your base color?
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This is the like to the store. Unfortunately I think I am going to have to get another as I am finding it a bit big. I am 6' tall and bought the large but I am a bit too stretched out for my liking. I did a bit more painting to mine after I got it as well. It is a great riding frame with very few issues in the build up.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005599109789.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.40.2b0f1802lbPhcy
perfect! Thanks!
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Awsome paint job! Can you tell a bit more how did you make it? What was your base color?
The bike was ordered as blue and I taped off sections using fineline and painted with epoxy paint. It looks ok from this distance but no so much close up. I also made a decal with photoshop.
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Answering my self here., I got it right on the second attempt/order of a directmount hanger, so this is a buying tip for those of you with compatible RD:s and an interest going the directmount route.
I orderd https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005946829585.html?gps-id=pcStoreJustForYou&scm=1007.23125.137358.0&scm_id=1007.23125.137358.0&scm-url=1007.23125.137358.0&pvid=4f84ad9f-55e6-41d2-92bd-72a29fbd4629&_t=gps-id:pcStoreJustForYou,scm-url:1007.23125.137358.0,pvid:4f84ad9f-55e6-41d2-92bd-72a29fbd4629,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238110%231995&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21SEK%21472.80%2189.80%21%21%2144.49%218.45%21%402101e58b17085265557644453e9815%2112000034975814437%21rec%21SE%21173424834%21&spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.smartJustForYou_2004123779662.1005005946829585
You'll probably have to copy the link text and paste into your browser to get to the product, this bord does things with pasted links.
How did that hangar work out ? I am in need of one and was wondering .
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What kind of bike weights are you guys getting with this frame? My current carbon gravel frame is about 7.9kg running 2x mechanical with 38c Gravelking SK tires. I would preferably like to get my gravel bike down at least to 7.6kg or sub 17lbs. I have this frame on my wishlist, but I'm open to other gravel framesets especially if they weigh less. The VoiceVelo G-Major would be perfect, but totally out of my price range!
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What kind of bike weights are you guys getting with this frame?
Mine is 22lb as shown in this picture (one bottle empty). The tires are 650g each and loaded with 3-4 oz of sealant. I can save almost a lb if I used good tires.
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Mine is 22lb as shown in this picture (one bottle empty). The tires are 650g each and loaded with 3-4 oz of sealant. I can save almost a lb if I used good tires.
Whoa, that weighs more than when I had my alloy gravel frameset! ;D
I think it's a bit more of balancing act trying to weight weenie a gravel bike since durability and ride conditions are important factors to keep in mind. I might even consider getting an older Crux frameset at this point if I want to drop more weight.
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Whoa, that weighs more than when I had my alloy gravel frameset! ;D
I think it's a bit more of balancing act trying to weight weenie a gravel bike since durability and ride conditions are important factors to keep in mind. I might even consider getting an older Crux frameset at this point if I want to drop more weight.
It's not super light by any means but most stock name brand gravel bikes are over this. What alloy bike did you have that was lighter ? I had a Trek Checkpoint that was 21 lbs. I think without any of the junk (bags, tools, spare tube, food, bottles, f & r lights, garmin, gopro etc) on there it's 18 lbs. I have a Colnago Master that is 18 lbs LOL
You mention the Crux but where I live that bike is $10k - $15k. I have about $3500 into this with the SRAM wireless. I doubt the Crux would give me 4x as much fun.
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It's not super light by any means but most stock name brand gravel bikes are over this. What alloy bike did you have that was lighter ? I had a Trek Checkpoint that was 21 lbs. I think without any of the junk (bags, tools, spare tube, food, bottles, f & r lights, garmin, gopro etc) on there it's 18 lbs. I have a Colnago Master that is 18 lbs LOL
I was originally using a Poseidon X alloy frameset that I eventually gifted to a family member. It was running in 1x configuration and it came out to about 20 lbs. I eventually swapped out the parts to an old 2017 Kinesis carbon frameset that I had laying around and now it's at the 7.9kg/17.5 lbs. mark. Nothing wrong with the frame, but it has external brake cabling. I'm tempted to drill an internal brake hole in the frame, but I'm worried about affecting the structural integrity.
The weight difference between my carbon road and gravel bikes are only about 1-1.5 lbs. Most of that extra weight is just in my tires, cassette and slightly heavier GRX shifters. I think my gravel wheelset actually weighs less than my road wheels.
I'm looking at older Crux framesets, like a 2019 model. No way I could buy a newer frameset!
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I'm looking at older Crux framesets, like a 2019 model. No way I could buy a newer frameset!
Same here. Plus If I had one I would probably break it. I weigh 200 lbs, I could skip lunch and make up the difference in weight. LOL
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Do people prefer to run separate bar and stem or the integrated? I was thinking mechanical 2x for it so maybe separate would be easier to route?
Also I am 188cm and normally riding a 58cm frame... looking at the number not sure if L would be on the short side.
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just received 2 G056 frames from sequel bike store, one size XS and other one S
i'm building it with sensah GRX hdr 12 speed and one with flat bar for my gf.
pics soon
Was wondering if you have any feedback on how hard it is to do the routing for mechanical groupset? Did you go with the integrated bars or a 2 piece bar?
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Here is my completed Velobuild G-003
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here is mine
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Summer deal was too tempting not to take a swing on the "Ceccotti" version of this frame w/o handlebars (450 shipped after codes and coupons) in this nice powdered blue from the "Surprise Store" lol.
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Se0f6077f2fb24a089159149f8a62b1fft/2024-Gravel-Bike-Frame-Full-Hidden-Cable-Frame-Disc-Brake-Carbon-Road-Bike-FrameSet-700C-47C.jpg)
Added on an elitewheels 35x30 ratchet wheelset and the l-twoo egr.
Whole build should come to like ~$1500 USD with everything net new sourced from Ali.
Will update.
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Summer deal was too tempting not to take a swing on the "Ceccotti" version of this frame w/o handlebars (450 shipped after codes and coupons) in this nice powdered blue from the "Surprise Store" lol.
I hope the surprises are good ones! Keep us updated. I'm currently tossing up between this and the SP Cycle 068 (2023 Canyon Grail clone). What gearing do you think you'll go with on the EGR?
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I hope the surprises are good ones! Keep us updated. I'm currently tossing up between this and the SP Cycle 068 (2023 Canyon Grail clone). What gearing do you think you'll go with on the EGR?
I've gone 40t front, 11-46 back. I considered a 11-50 to push it, but figured I'd stay in range and see how it feels.
Is the difference from the 68 to the 56 just the UDH hanger? I haven't compared.
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Summer deal was too tempting not to take a swing on the "Ceccotti" version of this frame w/o handlebars (450 shipped after codes and coupons) in this nice powdered blue from the "Surprise Store" lol.
Bought from the same store a couple months ago. The only problems I had were wrong bolts for the front mech hangar, the threads on the BB had to be chased as the shells would not thread in very far and the rear hangar bent on a mild strike but one was ordered from elsewhere on AliExpress as Surprise store was no help at all.
Price was great and shipping was surprisingly fast. I found the large I ordered was a little too long in the reach but compensated with a 80mm stem. FWIW I am 6' tall. It rides very well and quite fast for what it is.
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I've gone 40t front, 11-46 back. I considered a 11-50 to push it, but figured I'd stay in range and see how it feels.
Is the difference from the 68 to the 56 just the UDH hanger? I haven't compared.
GR056 is based on a Wilier Jena.
GR068 is based on the (2023) Canyon Grail (with some minor changes).
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Bought from the same store a couple months ago. The only problems I had were wrong bolts for the front mech hangar, the threads on the BB had to be chased as the shells would not thread in very far and the rear hangar bent on a mild strike but one was ordered from elsewhere on AliExpress as Surprise store was no help at all.
Price was great and shipping was surprisingly fast. I found the large I ordered was a little too long in the reach but compensated with a 80mm stem. FWIW I am 6' tall. It rides very well and quite fast for what it is.
Good to know, I'm 6' as well and went with the medium as the geo is closer to my road bike, felt like the right fit. What kind of tooling do you use to chase those threads? I used a small file to clean up the threads on the last frame I ordered, but without an actual thread tapper or something, wondering if there's a better technique.
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I used a small file to clean up the threads on the last frame I ordered, but without an actual thread tapper or something, wondering if there's a better technique.
I cleaned them up as best I could and borrowed a proper tap. I have also read that freezing the cups can make the install easier as well.
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I cleaned them up as best I could and borrowed a proper tap. I have also read that freezing the cups can make the install easier as well.
I've never heard that, care to elaborate a bit more? What would you freeze, the BB cups? Curious.
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I've never heard that, care to elaborate a bit more? What would you freeze, the BB cups? Curious.
Yes, the cups. Makes them a contract a little making threading a easier. I do the opposite (heating) when installing bearings in cups.
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Bought from the same store a couple months ago. The only problems I had were wrong bolts for the front mech hangar, the threads on the BB had to be chased as the shells would not thread in very far and the rear hangar bent on a mild strike but one was ordered from elsewhere on AliExpress as Surprise store was no help at all.
Price was great and shipping was surprisingly fast. I found the large I ordered was a little too long in the reach but compensated with a 80mm stem. FWIW I am 6' tall. It rides very well and quite fast for what it is.
How fast was surprisingly fast? I’ve got 28 items shipped, 2 waiting… let’s check!
Damnit, two pretty essential parts haha.
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How fast was surprisingly fast? I’ve got 28 items shipped, 2 waiting… let’s check!
Damnit, two pretty essential parts haha.
Frame was 13 days and my Elitewheel order was just short of 2 months. I was getting nervous because they asked twice to extend delivery time but they eventually did come. VERY happy with the wheels.
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Well damn it’s already been a week and the frames not shipped, so not gonna hold my breath.
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Frame was 13 days and my Elitewheel order was just short of 2 months. I was getting nervous because they asked twice to extend delivery time but they eventually did come. VERY happy with the wheels.
David, did you use a BB they provided or did you buy one? What's the width of the BB shell in the frame? They only list "T47" but not the shell size.
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David, did you use a BB they provided or did you buy one? What's the width of the BB shell in the frame? They only list "T47" but not the shell size.
The shell is 86mm T47. No I didn't use the provided one because it's for a shimano crank and I have SRAM DUB, I made the mistake of getting a cheapie from ALI and the 'ceramic' bearings lasted 500km. I have no idea of the quality of the provided one.
On another note I was off work for 11 days sick and repainted mine. I like it much more now I just need to come up with a name for the downtube. Thinking of "ASPLODE! " LOL
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Good to know, thanks.
That new paint job looks way rad!
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Good to know, thanks.
That new paint job looks way rad!
I like it a lot better for sure. I just need to come up with some lettering for it. Made these in vinyl just to see if I like it.
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How do you print vinyl transfer? I haven't looked into it at all, but I have bought some from some folks, seems like it should be easy? Is there a tool/provider you use?
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How do you print vinyl transfer? I haven't looked into it at all, but I have bought some from some folks, seems like it should be easy? Is there a tool/provider you use?
It's a hobby machine called a cricut. Graphics are made on a computer (I use photoshop) and then the machine cuts them out. I restore vintage bikes and I use the machine to make logo stencils for airbrushing.
The one here is just a mock up to see if I like it and if so, I will paint it on with color shift paint like the rest of the bike.
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Rad. I can definitely make the assets in photoshop or illustrator or whatever else, just wasn't sure an easy route to home-making vinyl stickers. I'll do some research.
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I hope someone can help me with this frame build. I recently purchased the version sold by "Surprise store" on AliExpress. My issue is installing the headset where there is a gap between the lower bearing and the fork and also a bigger gap between the frame and the headcover for the top bearing - this is using the supplied headset. With the top bearing in particular, this sits flush with the frame and when you put the the compression ring on, it sits too high the the headset cover leaving quite a big gap. Any advice is appreciated.
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I hope someone can help me with this frame build. I recently purchased the version sold by "Surprise store" on AliExpress. My issue is installing the headset where there is a gap between the lower bearing and the fork and also a bigger gap between the frame and the headcover for the top bearing - this is using the supplied headset. With the top bearing in particular, this sits flush with the frame and when you put the the compression ring on, it sits too high the the headset cover leaving quite a big gap. Any advice is appreciated.
For the upper bearing, I would definitely not use that compression ring, not just because it sits too high but because that C-shape design can easily damage a steerer tube (refer to Luescher Teknik: https://youtu.be/sKD2JSW9ul4?t=150). I'd recommend a Token A-Box or S-Box headset, which isn't too expensive and comes with a much better compression ring. If you can buy just that ring, it would certainly be cheaper than a full headset, but in 5 minutes of googling, I can't find a well-designed compression ring sold independently of a headset. There may be one out there if you look further than my casual searching.
For the lower bearing, are you sure the extra crown race is needed? Most of the time the bearing sits directly on a crown race molded directly into the fork; if that's not the case here then I would explore bearing/crown race combos from Cane Creek, they're the only reasonably priced source for good bearings + crown races that I found with another couple minutes of searching.
https://canecreek.com/product/headset-bearings/
https://canecreek.com/product/crown-races/
https://canecreek.com/product/headset-parts-accessories/
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Thanks for your reply, it confirms my thoughts that the headset is just a badly designed one and I should look at other options. I can confirm the crown race is needed as the bottom of the steerer is not tapered and is right angled and therefore needs a crown race to contact the lower bearing properly.
Anyone else who has built on this frame with the supplied headset and can comment would be much appreciated.
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I am wondering if they sent some wrong parts. I used the supplied headset and it looks fine to me. The race on the fork doesn't look right for one thing IMO
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Frame arrived today, the package was beat to shit, but the frame was untouched and well padded.
All in all, pretty impressed - the paint job is a little chunky, but it's clean.
The bottom bracket seems well made and the interface was clean as a whistle - super smooth.
The only issue was the same old bullshit with the headsets on these 1 1/2 - 1 1/2 head tubes, the top c-ring just doesn't work for any non-provided bars and spaces. Had to send down about 3.5 mm off of one to get it to allow my internally cabled stem, but it worked fine.
Routing the electronic cable and the 2 hydraulic lines was almost flawless, bar a little fuckery getting the charging cable through the bend on the chainstay, but I got it through just fine after a coulple of tries.
The BB that it came with is a freaming 49mm external, which I don't have a wrench for, so waiting for that to install the crankset.
Only issue is my bars are going to be like 2 more weeks, so I my have to use some deda superzeros I have, but I super don't wanna bleed my brakes again in a couple of weeks when the new bars come, wompwomp.
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has anyone tried other of the shelf headsets like FSA or Ritchey that would fit the frame?
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Thanks for your reply, it confirms my thoughts that the headset is just a badly designed one and I should look at other options. I can confirm the crown race is needed as the bottom of the steerer is not tapered and is right angled and therefore needs a crown race to contact the lower bearing properly.
Anyone else who has built on this frame with the supplied headset and can comment would be much appreciated.
Yeah, the headset it comes with mostly won't work with any other traditional internally routed headset, as it creates way too much space above the bearing assembly - I'd wager that if you got the bars with it, there's a specific first-use space that fits well. Annoying.
I had a plastic c-ring/cable guide/centering ring from another bar that I shaved down with 80 grit sandpaper to just barely 1mm of height above the frame and it allowed me to use the Fire Spider internally routed stem.
The crown race and lower bearing worked fine for me so not sure what's going on with yours.
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Oi did anyone use the provided external shell BB from the Ceccotti providers? Setting up 1x and the spacers they provided are.. strange? They're smaller diamter than other spacers I've used that go on the outside - perhaps I'm naive, but what's the play here to get the right chainline for 1x on this crazy wide bottom bracket shell?
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First rideable version of the build.
- The bars I bought arrived *very* late and were completely smashed, so I couldn't use them. Fortunately I had a pair of Deda DCR bars from a road build that allowed me to use the internally routed stem that I bought from Fire Spider. Gonna fucking suck to disconnect the hoses and remount the brifters when the replacement bars show up, but I gotta have that flare, baby.
- Awaiting a set of pedals, using my Candy 1s for now.
- Awaiting Specialized Mirror clone saddle from Ali that's delayed, using Brooks Cambium c16 for now.
Impressions? Pretty fucking sick, honestly. It rides like butter, is faster and more responsive on pavement than I expected. Doing a longer gravel ride on Saturday ahead of a weekend in Stemboat Springs next weekend so I'll have more hard-nosed feedback to give then.
Some notes:
-- Positive
- LTWOO gRX is pretty tight, exactly what I expected after using the eRX on my road bike.
- The Pirelli Cinturato Gravel RC have an excellent tread for combo riding, really impressed.
- These Kactus rotors are amazing - never had a rotor and caliper combo feel so good, so fast.
- Knockoff RedShift grips are fun, will be really nice on flared bars.
-- To be seen:
- As I've posted in other threads, I had to file down a nylon c-ring to get the spacers to set correctly on the frame, which i'm not super stoked about. I've got an order that should be here shortlyf or a better spacer set that should set on top of one of the aluminum c-rings that I have, but god damnit, I already installed the brake lines, so there's a calculus to be made there about how the existing spacer set up is performing/whether it's worth the effort to essentially full-bleed the brakes (if ya'll have suggestions for un-routing hoses easily, I'll fucking take em.)
- Was able to get to what I think is the best chainline I'm gonna get - but the climbing gear is definitely clunky, just a suboptimal chainline, to be sure - anyone in here running a similar 1x? How did you use spacers to configure the chainline?
- Any recommendations on a plug for the FD port that I'm not using?
- Computer mounts? Having a hard time finding one that will work, since the stem didn't come equipped with under-mounted screws for an out-front mount and the bars are not round. I got a stem-bolt-mounted one but it still doesn't feel/look right. Maybe a cap mount?
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Bike looks good! I've been eyeballing this frame from a few AliEx vendors, but I can't really justify a new gravel frame just yet! Regarding your chain line, I'm guessing that's a 0 offset chainring? Maybe get a chainring with a 3mm offset to bring it slightly inboard. A cap computer mount should work, but I personally prefer my computer out front. Keeps things less cluttered!
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Bike looks good! I've been eyeballing this frame from a few AliEx vendors, but I can't really justify a new gravel frame just yet! Regarding your chain line, I'm guessing that's a 0 offset chainring? Maybe get a chainring with a 3mm offset to bring it slightly inboard. A cap computer mount should work, but I personally prefer my computer out front. Keeps things less cluttered!
Thanks!
Yeah, I figured out a decent way to use the stem-mount out-front computer mount and it feels pretty good now tbh.
Re: chainline - haven't ever used offset chainrings, but it's a good option! Any gotchas to be aware of? I'm doing some climbing today where I expect to spin in the granny gears, so we'll see how it actually feels.
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Thanks!
Yeah, I figured out a decent way to use the stem-mount out-front computer mount and it feels pretty good now tbh.
Re: chainline - haven't ever used offset chainrings, but it's a good option! Any gotchas to be aware of? I'm doing some climbing today where I expect to spin in the granny gears, so we'll see how it actually feels.
The 3mm offset chainrings move the chain line closer to the hub. I guess in theory it's supposed to be better optimized for climbing gears. Though when I was running 1x, I didn't notice much difference. I was running a Pass Quest 1x aero chainring with 3mm offset and it was a bit noisy. I never tried a non-aero offset chainring before switching back to 2x.
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The 3mm offset chainrings move the chain line closer to the hub. I guess in theory it's supposed to be better optimized for climbing gears. Though when I was running 1x, I didn't notice much difference. I was running a Pass Quest 1x aero chainring with 3mm offset and it was a bit noisy. I never tried a non-aero offset chainring before switching back to 2x.
Loud and clear. It certainly is noisy in the current config (I think I've got a 1mm wavy spacer on the drive-side and 3mm spacer to balance the crankset on the non-drive?)
It does seem to line up where folks expect it to (49mm I think is what I measured it) - I'll see how it feels this afternoon.
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If you are uncomfortable with the filed down c-ring, ask the seller to send you only the c-ring that comes with the handlebar/frame package. It's metal and sits much lower - of course you need to reconnect and rebleed the brakes though.
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I’m debating on ordering the G058 frame which is the same as the G30 CWind I believe. After reading this forum I’m not sure which size to order. This will be my first gravel bike and I have sat on 54cm bikes and they seem to fit. Does this fram run larger? I’m 178cm tall.
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I’m debating on ordering the G058 frame which is the same as the G30 CWind I believe. After reading this forum I’m not sure which size to order. This will be my first gravel bike and I have sat on 54cm bikes and they seem to fit. Does this fram run larger? I’m 178cm tall.
You can compare your frame here https://geometrygeeks.bike/
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Has anyone ever tried any other headset then the one provided by Spcycle? I got the one from velobuild and that one sucks like hell... any headset for full integration would be great? Do you guys think a DEDA, FSA or Richtey headset would fit? Anyone tried?
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I went with Syncros Creston bar, I’ll see when I get everything how is the integration…
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Has anyone ever tried any other headset then the one provided by Spcycle? I got the one from velobuild and that one sucks like hell... any headset for full integration would be great? Do you guys think a DEDA, FSA or Richtey headset would fit? Anyone tried?
I bought a Kocevelo headset as a potential replacement but haven't fussed with it yet - if I do, I'll let ya know.
Attached the final build (until I decide to push the cassette to 50t or swap the chainring) on the first *real* ride - some gravel run around out in Steamboat Springs, Colorado during the STBT GRVL weekend.
Absolutely in love with these bars.
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I went with Syncros Creston bar, I’ll see when I get everything how is the integration…
I tried mounting that bar. I tried 3 different sets of aero spacers and didn't like any of them as they didn't look right. I went back to the Roval SL7 bar with aero spacers and the 50mm round top cap for them. I def would have preferred the Creston bar.
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Dang man you just crushed my vision lol
A guy on YouTube printed a 3d spacer, I will ask him if he is willing to share the file…
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I built what I consider to be my all-road bike using this frame, with the first proper ride yesterday.
tl;dr Overall, I'm satisfied. I like the look, although I realise it's polarizing. Buy it if you're looking for a really cheap frame for a budget build, but expect some hassles during the build process. You can probably find better frames for just a bit more money. And a matte black frame would likely have fewer issues caused by paint overspray.
I don't ride gravel - there isn't much of it where I live. But there are plenty of national parks that are great for riding, in nature and with minimal traffic. The challenge is the terrible paved road surfaces - coarse chip seal with cracks, ridges, potholes, erosion at the edges, etc. Add on steep and windy descents, and it's enough to dent my confidence. So I was looking to build a bike that would help me handle those conditions better, with space for wide tyres, a longer wheelbase, slacker head tube angle, more trail, and with a lower BB to compensate for chunkier tyres. In other words, a gravel frame. Maybe even throw in a flared handlebar for good measure.
On my ride yesterday I set PBs on the technical descents along my course, so it seems to be doing what I hoped it would. The overall time for the whole ride was a little slower than previous rides on my endurance bike though. Whether that's more down to the wider tyres with lower pressure, or me having spent more time building a bike rather than training lately is hard to tell.
I ordered the frame in size S, painted Pearl White, without handlebars. The seller was Surprised Store on AliExpress, they sold the frame as "Ceccotti RF25". Frame cost was US$ 410 all up, including shipping, Australian sales tax (10%), and with AliExpress+store coupons.
Weight of the built bike including pedals, Garmin Edge out-front mount, Varia seatpost mount, and bottle cages: 8.2 kg (or 18.1 lbs for those of you who prefer nonsensical units ;D). The painted frame size S with all bolts, axles, hangers, and grommets removed was 1075g. The uncut fork was 404g, seatpost 204g, the included thru axles 68g.
On the frame, the good:
- Packaging was very good - actually I'd say exceptional.
- The fork steerer was flawless - even wall thickness, no pitting, and my vernier calipers suggest that it is round.
- The inside of the seat tube was very smooth - no unevenness, tenting, or loose fibers.
- The included seatpost has a rough texture at the clamping area, and it hasn't slipped, with the bolt in the wedge torqued to 4 Nm.
- Routing the hydraulic hose and the mechanical shift cables with foam tubing through the frame was straightforward, so that suggests reasonably clean internal surfaces, even though this is not an EPS frame AFAIK.
- It works great with 2x mechanical shifting.
- No brake rub after adjustment, even with all the paint overspray (see "the bad" below). Perhaps this is due to the forgiving L-Twoo calipers?
- Two mounting positions for the front derailleur hanger enables using 2x chainrings ranging from subcompact to standard.
- Came with a T47-24i bottom bracket and two spare rear derailleur hangers.
- Grommets for both mechanical and electronic shift cables included.
- The headset dust cover with cable entry port for using a regular bar and stem actually fit the frame, unlike the one that VeloBuild supplied with their 066 frame.
- The rubber cover for the seatpost clamp stays in place.
The bad:
- Paint overspray! So much paint overspray!. On the brake caliper mounts, the brake hose exit port on the fork, and the thru axle "dropouts". And all of the mounting points for bottles and mudguards/fenders on the frame are rough to thread in.
- The threads of the bottom bracket shell were very rough on the NDS, not because of paint overspray, just shoddy workmanship. I tried to clean the threads up with a file, but in the end I took it to my LBS to have them chase the threads. Drive side threads were fine.
- The seat for the top headset bearing was very rough at the front of the seat. The bearing didn't sit flat (it rocked), and there was a loose and sharp piece of carbon fibre sticking out. I saw traces of paint in there, so I suspect there had been paint overspray, and then someone had used a reamer without much care. I fixed it by smoothing it out and building it up using multiple coats of nail polish. The seat for the lower headset bearing was fine.
- I'm using the included headset for a regular bar and stem, and it fits well. However, the headset uses a C-shaped aluminium compression ring that I'm wary of using longer term. All of its edges are chamfered and smooth, which is somewhat reassuring, but I'd still prefer another solution longer term. The Ritchey upper headset that I used on my previous VeloBuild doesn't fit, as the dust cover sits way too high (or the top bearing doesn't sit deep enough in the frame). Same for the headset that came with the Mosso stem from AliExpress. If someone has suggestions for an alternative headset with a compression ring that wraps around the whole steerer, I'd love to hear!
The minor annoyances:
- The saddle rail clamp uses a 5mm bolt at the rear and a 6mm bolt at the front ???.
- The seatpost doesn't have height adjustment markers.
- The angle of the front derailleur shift cable cable stop/exit port near the bottom bracket makes the mechanical shift housing interfere with installation of the bottom bracket. The bottom bracket I used had a soft plastic shell that was easily deformed by the shift housing, but I managed to line up the sleeve with the cups eventually. A bottom bracket with a stiffer sleeve would likely be much easier to install.
- I asked for a fork without mounting points, as I don't plan to take this bike packing. The seller just painted over the mounting points - I can just about see them through the paint when I look up close.
- The crank arms run so close to the chainstays that a cadence sensor won't fit on the inside of the NDS crank arm when using a Shimano road crankset. I suspect that single-sided NDS crank arm-based power meters (4iiii, Stages) on Shimano road cranksets also wouldn't fit with their protruding pods. Might be fine with GRX cranksets? Fortunately my power meter pedals measure cadence.
- Not the frame, but my L-Twoo R9 set came with two subtly different brake calipers. One was branded just "L-Twoo", the other "L-Twoo R9". The one branded "L-Twoo" used an Allen/Hex key for the bleed port bolt, while the one branded "L-Twoo R9" used a Torx key! #ltwoolife
And finally, the hilarious:
- The whole side of the shipping box was covered with stamps! (see attached photo)
Components:
- Shifters and brakes: L-Twoo R9 hydraulic disc with 2x11-speed mechanical shifting. A lot has been written and said about these shifters, and I don't have a long term review. But I will say that I really love the ergonomics, especially using the thumb shifters, from both the hoods and the drops. And they look much better than the bulbous Shimano 105 ST-R7020 mechanical/hydraulic shifters IMNSHO.
- Rear derailleur: Shimano GRX RD-RX810 11 speed
- Front derailleur: Shimano 105 FD-R7000-F
- Crankset: Shimano 105 FC-R7100 with 50/34T chainrings, 170mm crank arms
- Cassette: Goldix one-piece monobloc CNC, 11-34T. Rear shifts are very smooth with the derailleur clutch off, but a little less smooth with the clutch on. Maybe I should try to adjust the derailleur clutch tension to be less tight?
- Chain: Shimano CN-HG701, immersion hot waxed
- Brake rotors: Meroca RT-RX 160mm x2
- Stem: UNO aluminium 7050 110mm 7 degrees drop
- Handlebars: Specialized Short Reach Flare aluminium 38cm, with 12 degree flare, so 42cm in the drops. 70mm reach, 119mm drop.
- Tyres: Vittoria Corsa N.EXT 34mm tube-type, measure 34mm on the wheels I use.
- Inner tubes: RideNow 39g all-road TPU tubes
- Wheels: EliteWheels Edge Gravel 45mm deep, 31mm external width, 24mm internal width, steel bearings.
- Pedals: Garmin Rally RK100 (transferred from another bike)
- Shift housing: Shimano OptiSlick - purchased an MTB kit for sufficient full-length housing.
- Saddle: Mixed 5D. Not bad, but I'll probably swap it for the 7D.
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Just finished up building on this frame as well. It will be mainly used for commuting so it has a r7100 12 speed mechanical groupset on it but can be used for gravel with a change of tyres and maybe a GRX RD.
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Some better photos of the "final build" - although I'm planning to overhaul the drivetrain a bit - adopting a 38t oval offset chainring and a 11-50 cassette - both in transit.
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Just finished up building on this frame as well. It will be mainly used for commuting so it has a r7100 12 speed mechanical groupset on it but can be used for gravel with a change of tyres and maybe a GRX RD.
Great build! No need for changing Rd imo. I was using r7000 for gravel for 4 years and it was rock solid. On 2x and 1x with 11-42 in the back (no mods needed)
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Another question about sizing. I'm 177cm 73kg and would choose size M of this frame.
Looking at bike-stats this gives me a similar sizing as my current commuter a Trek Domane AL2.
https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=632176549533910022b2d19f,6492e3b89cb6b70021b823ec,
Any thoughts/ comments/ objections?
Thanks in advance, I'll plan to pull the trigger on the frame on the weekend ;D
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183-74, I went with the M too based on recommendations here as I have no road bike/gravel experience…
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I'm 175cm and went with size S, as it enabled me to very closely match the touch points on my previous endurance bike. I run it with a 110mm stem and an offset seatpost.
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I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on this frame for the upcoming 11.11 sale. I'm about 173-174cm and the geometry chart seems like the small should fit. My only concern is the 556mm stack height on the frame. My other frames are between the 530-540mm mark. The stack of the XS seems more in-line with my other bikes, but the S seems to fit all my other measurements. Any insights would be appreciated. Thanks!
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I'm 175cm and chose size S as the touch points were supposed to be a close match to my VeloBuild 066 size S endurance frame, with identical stack: https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=65d910dc257cb4001beb4fe2,632176549533910022b2d19e,
I run it with the headset cover (10mm high) and one 10mm spacer below the stem. The stem is a 110mm -7 degree Uno stem, and I have compact short reach handlebars.
Curiously, a quick measurement I took before travelling had the saddle to bar distance a bit longer than my VB066, which surprised me, as they are set up very similarly. I'll take some additional measurements when I return to see if I just made a mistake, or if the geometry chart is perhaps slightly off.
In any case, the setup so far works well for me as an "all-road" bike for rough paved roads, but it's by no means aggressive. I don't race, and the lowest stack bike I have is 545mm.
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I'm 175cm and chose size S as the touch points were supposed to be a close match to my VeloBuild 066 size S endurance frame, with identical stack: https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=65d910dc257cb4001beb4fe2,632176549533910022b2d19e,
I run it with the headset cover (10mm high) and one 10mm spacer below the stem. The stem is a 110mm -7 degree Uno stem, and I have compact short reach handlebars.
Curiously, a quick measurement I took before travelling had the saddle to bar distance a bit longer than my VB066, which surprised me, as they are set up very similarly. I'll take some additional measurements when I return to see if I just made a mistake, or if the geometry chart is perhaps slightly off.
In any case, the setup so far works well for me as an "all-road" bike for rough paved roads, but it's by no means aggressive. I don't race, and the lowest stack bike I have is 545mm.
From the photos the top tube looks quite slack, so at 175cm tall standover isn't an issue? One thing I notice is the BB to fork distance is quite wide at 600mm, even the XS is at 587. I'm guessing toe overlap is less an issue with this frame geometry?
I'm looking to update my current gravel bike. It's a bit older with outer rear cabling and I've noticed very minor hairline cracks near the head tube/down tube area. It could just be matte paint cracking and I haven't noticed any problems while riding. Though I'm thinking it might be time to retire this frame with something that has progressive gravel geometry.
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Some better photos of the "final build" - although I'm planning to overhaul the drivetrain a bit - adopting a 38t oval offset chainring and a 11-50 cassette - both in transit.
What rotors are that?
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What rotors are that?
should be the Kactus ultralight rotors
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should be the Kactus ultralight rotors
Yep!
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I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on this frame for the upcoming 11.11 sale. I'm about 173-174cm and the geometry chart seems like the small should fit. My only concern is the 556mm stack height on the frame. My other frames are between the 530-540mm mark. The stack of the XS seems more in-line with my other bikes, but the S seems to fit all my other measurements. Any insights would be appreciated. Thanks!
That's the reason I went with 110 -17 stem on my large size. I am 187cm
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From the photos the top tube looks quite slack, so at 175cm tall standover isn't an issue? One thing I notice is the BB to fork distance is quite wide at 600mm, even the XS is at 587. I'm guessing toe overlap is less an issue with this frame geometry?
I'll admit I didn't give standover height much thought, but it hasn't been a problem. I'm sure I would've noticed if it was!
And definitely no toe overlap. Though I'm using 34mm slick tyres (measured width, haven't measured the height). Maybe 47c knobbly tyres could cause rub?
Though I'm thinking it might be time to retire this frame with something that has progressive gravel geometry.
I'm definitely no gravel bike geometry guru, but I think "progressive gravel geometry" essentially means "race-oriented gravel geometry"? The G056 is no slouch, but there are definitely racier gravel frames out there. Maybe the Spcycle G068 that has been mentioned in another thread, though I find that frame's geometry baffling.
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On the topic of G056 vs G068 geometry, here's a comparison of G056 size S vs G068 size XS:
https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=632176549533910022b2d19e,666fda799d2f8b001bc280ae,
Because the G068 is so long, toe overlap would be even less of an issue compared to G056.
But 385mm reach and 551mm effective top tube of the G068 in size XS??? Shorter riders need not apply I suppose?
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Looking at the diffferent build I see that some bolt the derrailleur direct to UDH mount and others have an extender in between that shift the derailleur back a little. What are the benefits of doing so?
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I think UDH is SRAM and direct mount (ie the one with the extension) is Shimano ?? Consensus is that Shimano will ultimately move to UDH so it becomes a truely universal standard.
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Ah ok, i see
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Some better photos of the "final build" - although I'm planning to overhaul the drivetrain a bit - adopting a 38t oval offset chainring and a 11-50 cassette - both in transit.
I also ordered this frame from surprised store and I'm waiting for the delivery. I only get silver screws from them. Where did you get the black ones?
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I also ordered this frame from surprised store and I'm waiting for the delivery. I only get silver screws from them. Where did you get the black ones?
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005005070119421.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.81.4e6c36963nerJf&gatewayAdapt=glo2ita
M5 x 10 mm flat head, worked for my frame
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thanks! Did you use metal washers for the screws, if so any good source?
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You can also get button head titanium screw for about same cost.
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https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005005070119421.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.81.4e6c36963nerJf&gatewayAdapt=glo2ita
M5 x 10 mm flat head, worked for my frame
I originally switched to black screws and washers but I'm looking to swap them out for rubber plugs/grommets to reduce the chance of rust and also weight savings :D ;D ;D. I've tried 4.5mm plugs but they are too small and will need to try out 5mm.
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I put these nylon bolts in the unused mount points of my frame. Lightweight, and won't rust. Size M5
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005853015671.html
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I put these nylon bolts in the unused mount points of my frame. Lightweight, and won't rust. Size M5
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005853015671.html
I tried Nylon screws for blank threaded holes in a frame years ago. I left them in the frame for several years. When I tried to remove them, the Phillips head stripped out. It turned into a medium mess drilling out the nylon and then tapping the 5mm threads to get the rest of the Nylon out. I believe that Nylon absorbs water over time and they can swell/lock into the threads. I recommend that you remove them on a regular basis and/or use an anti-seize compound.
These days, I use a dab of silicone RTV to plug holes that aren't used. (Easily removed and stays in place unless you are using a pressure washer or rub on the RVV while cleaning)
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I just bit the bullet and ordered this frame for the 11.11 sale. I went with the Ceccotti RF25 version from the Surprise Store on AliEx. They had the best price, most affordable paint option and the most discounts applied. I almost went with either the BXT 135 and the Flyxii FE-03, but after thinking about it, I wanted something different. Also I might use a semi-internal cable fork with this frame while running the 1x RD and rear brake caliper internally through the frame. I mainly want to utilize the built-in 180mm rotor offset on the EVOSID gravel fork I currently own. Unfortunately it doesn't have the internal cable line.
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Today I got my frame, I'm happy with the color (Pantone 9083 C) and the bike itself. But as im an newbie I cannot tell if the paintjob is good/ok/bad.
Especially I would need your advice if I have to clean up some of the threads and if so how to do it best.
So my questions:
- I tested to screw in the bb and that worked so far. But would I have to clean the surrondings of the bb-thread in order not to crack the paint?
- What about the break mount treads?
- and all the other threads like bottle cage holder or bag, etc?
- Should i clean the headset holes and if so, how to do it best?
Additionally i couldn't figure out the following:
- what are the two metal rings for, that came with the headset bearings?
- What is the strange toothshape o-ring for that came with the headset spacers?
- what are the additional parts with the bb for? My Lingmai does not have these?
Thanks in advance!
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It's a bit difficult to answer without clear references to items in your pictures, but ill give it a go.
Additionally i couldn't figure out the following:
- what are the two metal rings for, that came with the headset bearings?
* shims i would assume, if you have problems with binding betweend the headset and the frame, add spacers :)
- What is the strange toothshape o-ring for that came with the headset spacers?
* If you are refering to the smaller object in picture with the scale? that's the wedge that fits beween the upper bearing and the steerer tube.
- what are the additional parts with the bb for? My Lingmai does not have these?
* Shims/spacers once again + reducer and wawy washer for SRAM/GXP stuff?
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@hahel thanks for helping me out. And yes you are right i should have put markings on the pictures, my bad.
- I asked the seller also what the washers on the headset bearings where for and like you set, i could use them or not.
- the tooth shaped thing (marked in red) is for using a standard headset and not the supplied one the seller said
- concerning the BB, I will stick to my lingmai it seems to fit.
Where I still need help is cleaning up the paint overspray on the break mounts and the bottom braked rim. Is that necessary, and if so how to do it best? Just use sandpaper and an flat hard object? And should i file the edges of the holes of the headset?
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Regarding sanding that’s what I did. For the headset, I you refer to what’s at the edge of the opening, it’s a non contact surface so I didn’t do anything to it. If you have paint in the bearing cups, then yes it should be cleaned up
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Thanks!- so i'll sand the brake mounts. The BB-Thread is fine, there is no paint in it, so i leave it like that.
For the headset, the cable will come out on that point and it seems quite rough, so i'll just sand the rough edges a little bit.
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I need your help again ;D
My fork/headset came with a compression ring I have not seen before and I'm unsure if I use it correctly. If i put it right after the upper bearing It doesn't look like the stack will be without a gap.
Even if i compress it by hand, it dose not seem to be flush.
Any idea how or what i should do?
Thanks!
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That’s not your compression ring, you should have the C ring to allow for internal cable routing. If thqt’s really the ring for you headset kit, then you will have to do like I did, file away the extra thickness, have fun!
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thanks for you quick reply! :-[ damm yes there was no c-shaped ring included. I will ask the store if they forget it or how it should be mounted, annoying.
Concerning filing. you mean you filed it flat? I'm afraid then there is not much left :-(
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I need your help again ;D
My fork/headset came with a compression ring I have not seen before and I'm unsure if I use it correctly. If i put it right after the upper bearing It doesn't look like the stack will be without a gap.
Even if i compress it by hand, it dose not seem to be flush.
Any idea how or what i should do?
Thanks!
That's the crown race that sits on the fork, if it's not built into the fork already. Review integrated headset installation, there's many good videos on the topic, or written articles if you prefer that (here's a decent one by Cane Creek: https://canecreek.com/how-to-install-an-integrated-is-headset/ ). The compression ring for the top will be a much thicker C shaped ring much like the one in the pictures you posted previously.
This is worth getting correct because it's absolutely critical for safety, and with fully internal cable routing it's not easy to adjust/fix headset issues. It's much better to take the bike to a shop if you don't feel 100% about it.
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That's the crown race that sits on the fork, if it's not built into the fork already. Review integrated headset installation, there's many good videos on the topic, or written articles if you prefer that (here's a decent one by Cane Creek: https://canecreek.com/how-to-install-an-integrated-is-headset/ ). The compression ring for the top will be a much thicker C shaped ring much like the one in the pictures you posted previously.
This is worth getting correct because it's absolutely critical for safety, and with fully internal cable routing it's not easy to adjust/fix headset issues. It's much better to take the bike to a shop if you don't feel 100% about it.
Yes you are right, that's the crown race. I finally figured it out how to put everything together. I was confused as the orignal information from the seller was misleading, but finally we got it sorted out. He was helpful and quick to reply (surprised store).
So for everyone how has the same headset. The compression-ring is the one in the attached picture. It looks different than the one's I have seen here, thats why I didn't make the connection immediately.
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Yes you are right, that's the crown race. I finally figured it out how to put everything together. I was confused as the orignal information from the seller was misleading, but finally we got it sorted out. He was helpful and quick to reply (surprised store).
So for everyone how has the same headset. The compression-ring is the one in the attached picture. It looks different than the one's I have seen here, thats why I didn't make the connection immediately.
I tried telling you that ;) Happy to see you making good progress on the assembly, close to riding the bike now :)
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My frameset is finally painted and shipped. Hopefully it arrives safely. ;D
I actually ordered another internal cable carbon fork to accommodate 180mm disc rotors. My options for front 180mm rotors was either use an unsafe adapter combination or pay a premium for Peak Torque's adapter and I'd still have to stack adapters. I know Lewis makes a 180mm adapter, but I can't find any reviews or documentation on that adapter. Plus with the 11.11 sale coupons, I was able to get the fork for fairly cheap.
Anyways, I'm planning to run 1x mechanical using a GRX812 RD+Garbaruk cage, 1x Pass Quest aero chainring, 11 speed ZTTO 9-50t UL cassette and 11 speed hydraulic Ultegra shifters. I was debating upgrading to LTwoo EGR, but my gravel terrain is all remote and mountainous, so going electronic and possibly upgrading to 12 speed doesn't really do anything for me. I have a set of new LTwoo hydraulic brake calipers I'll use.
I'm also going to run a Kocevlo internal cable stem with some 34cm flared gravel drop bars. I also have a pair of Gravelking X1 tires in 700x40c ready to go which I'll mount on a pair of 29er carbon wheels. They're 28h spokes, have a 25mm IW and hookless. I'm still debating which crankset to use. I have 4 cranksets to choose from!
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Which gravel bars did you order? Got a link?
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Which gravel bars did you order? Got a link?
I'm planning to run these bars in 34cm/460mm:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806404062021.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806404062021.html)
I also have these in 42cm/498mm drops:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803505182828.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803505182828.html)
I have these 40cm/500mm integrated bars, but I might leave them on my other gravel frame:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804683742226.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804683742226.html)
I'm going to try the first option, since I just got those ($29 USD during 11.11 sale). Though if I need more width I can switch to either the first or third option. I also have some Ritchy Beacon gravel bars if I want to go ultra wide. Lately I've been preferring narrow hoods, with flared drops for how I ride. On sketch terrain and downhill, I always switch to the drops for stability. I only stay on the hoods for cruising and or steady climbing.
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Geez, 37° - that's quite an angle ;D
Too bad those integrated ones don't come in narrower sizes. Would love a 340/360mm flared one ...
The only ones I found are from Lexon and SYNCROS, start at 380mm, and are considerably more expensive ~120+ €.
Might need to go separate stem/bar as well in the end :-\
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The integrated bars are actually really nice and aren’t that heavy clocking in less than 340g. I also wanted something narrower, but 40cm was the most compact.
Yeah when I saw the 34cm bar I jumped on it. Compared to the RXL gravel bars, they’re a bit more shallow and slightly wide. The nice thing is that there’s ample room for cable routing. I’ll report back when I get the frame assembled.
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Geez, 37° - that's quite an angle ;D
Too bad those integrated ones don't come in narrower sizes. Would love a 340/360mm flared one ...
The only ones I found are from Lexon and SYNCROS, start at 380mm, and are considerably more expensive ~120+ €.
Might need to go separate stem/bar as well in the end :-\
I went for the syncros, looks awesome, integration to the frame take a little effort but gives a good result!
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I'm making slowly progress and learning quite a lot doing mistakes ;D .Today I tried test-installing the wheels and realized that the the GRX-BR-400 calipers wouldn't take the rotors. On the front I could fix that in changing the direction of the adapter but on the rear there is no adapter. After some research I suppose I also need an adapter for 160mm Rotors. Can someone confirm that, so I don't waste money.
I would buy this one: https://www.bike-components.de/de/Shimano/Flat-Mount-Scheibenbremsadapter-SM-MA-R160D-D-160-mm-HR-Werkstattv-p84234/?o=1000309539-schwarz-HR-FM-auf-FM&delivery_country=DE&upid=google&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=20545680419&utm_content=&utm_term=&gclid=Cj0KCQiAgJa6BhCOARIsAMiL7V_Tn2xUoAwHk94-ru8c3fKqY1vYiDMRCbgkIs2yZB_W7zEKtzsa5IQaAn4uEALw_wcB
Thanks
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I'm making slowly progress and learning quite a lot doing mistakes ;D .Today I tried test-installing the wheels and realized that the the GRX-BR-400 calipers wouldn't take the rotors. On the front I could fix that in changing the direction of the adapter but on the rear there is no adapter. After some research I suppose I also need an adapter for 160mm Rotors. Can someone confirm that, so I don't waste money.
I would buy this one: https://www.bike-components.de/de/Shimano/Flat-Mount-Scheibenbremsadapter-SM-MA-R160D-D-160-mm-HR-Werkstattv-p84234/?o=1000309539-schwarz-HR-FM-auf-FM&delivery_country=DE&upid=google&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=20545680419&utm_content=&utm_term=&gclid=Cj0KCQiAgJa6BhCOARIsAMiL7V_Tn2xUoAwHk94-ru8c3fKqY1vYiDMRCbgkIs2yZB_W7zEKtzsa5IQaAn4uEALw_wcB
Thanks
That's the right adapter
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Great, thanks. I‘ll order it then and hope it get shipped fast so I can make progress on the weekend :-)
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I finally got the buidl nearly finished and was able to do a first test ride. Thanks for all the help!! The bike feels great and I'm very happy with it.
Two things I'll have to fix:
- Headset play: I read alread in the forum and i suppose that my fork is just a tad to long, I have 0,5mm where the compression plug seems to be over the stem (see photo). Can I just sand it down a bit, or what would you do? I also have 2 metall washers but I don't see where I should put them. If i put them between compression ring and first spacer it would damage the hoses and cables. Any additional ideas?
- Breaking perfomance is weak. I will try to see if gets better, but i suppose i will have to rebleed them
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Just cut 3-4 mm of steerer tube, sanding Will be much time consuming
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I finally got the buidl nearly finished and was able to do a first test ride. Thanks for all the help!! The bike feels great and I'm very happy with it.
Two things I'll have to fix:
- Headset play: I read alread in the forum and i suppose that my fork is just a tad to long, I have 0,5mm where the compression plug seems to be over the stem (see photo). Can I just sand it down a bit, or what would you do? I also have 2 metall washers but I don't see where I should put them. If i put them between compression ring and first spacer it would damage the hoses and cables. Any additional ideas?
- Breaking perfomance is weak. I will try to see if gets better, but i suppose i will have to rebleed them
Hello,
the bike looks great so far 8)
What fram size is it?
Retgards,
D.
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Thanks! That’s size M purchased from surprisedstore
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Thanks, I ordered size small for my wife. I have all the parts, except the frame now.
Hopefully the bike gets finished till Cristmas.
D.
ps. Have Tufo Tires too, but Speedero ones.
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Cool - what are the rest of the specs?
It was my first build so it took quite a while for me. But I'm planning to build a second bike for my GF in spring.
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As we are owning already a few bikes,
this shall become an allrounder especially for wet conditions.
So it's this G056 frame - process blue,
40mm deep, 30 wide rims - 700c,
Tufo Speedero 40mm - black,
integrated handlebar 38 mm,
GRX 800 - 1x11 spd,
Fenders Bluemels Stingray,
and probably a rack.
D.
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Just cut 3-4 mm of steerer tube, sanding Will be much time consuming
That fixed it - many thanks :)
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That fixed it - many thanks :)
Just keep in mind for next time that the steerer cut line is about 4-5mm below the top of the stem before the topcap is placed on. This is to allow for the expander plug (approx 2mm) + and additional 2-3mm for the actual compression.
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yes I know - I just was too afraid to cut it too short so that I didn't cut enough ;)
My learning form the build as first timer is: you can watch as many videos you like and read a ton of infos - on the first build you will make nonetheless a lot of errors and that's the best learning curve :-D
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Finally finished the build. Love the bike and can’t wait to take it for a ride. The final weight is 8,34 kg.
Unfortunately I’m unable to attache a foto
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First stage finished,
tbd:
Fenders,
Chain,
Bar tape.
(http://)
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I just received my Ceccotti RF25 (same frame as the G056 & TanTan GR047). I bought mine from the Surprised Store on AliEx and they happened to have the best price for this frameset during the 11.11 sale. I ordered it on 11/11 and it arrived 12/18. So slightly over a month. I quickly weighed it and the frame with FD/RD hanger and cage screws weighed about 1160g. I preemptively applied protection tape all over the frame, a chain slap guard and down tube skid guard. After debating, I opted for a different fork that accommodates a 180mm front rotor while using standard flat mount brake calipers. No adapters necessary. I'll save the original white painted fork as a backup. Hence the panda color scheme of my frame.
I'm actually quite impressed with the Surprised Store's paint work and attention to detail of my frameset. The white paint looks clean and comes with a slight pearl-like sparkle. No overspray and looks very professional. They supplied all the necessary components, offered a seat post (I don't think the other sellers include it) and the head tube and T47 appear to be round. Also from what I could see inside the BB and head tube, the carbon layup looks clean with no voids or webbing. In retrospect, I should have bought a road frame from them as well, if I knew their quality was this good.
I now have to figure out my fit on this frameset. It's the most slack frame I own now. I opted for a separate bar, stem and exposed cables. I just don't want to deal with a loose headset and I can dial headset compression perfectly with stem spacers. It's going to be fitted with LTwoo eGR electronic shiftting, 38t chainring, a 9-46t cassette, and two wheelsets, one with 38c slicks and another with 38c gravel tires. Also I need to test if my Riro carbon crankset will fit. It most likely won't since it's a T47 86.5 BB width. If it doesn't I have different cranksets I can use.
First build photos attached. :)
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Bike is done! My wife was wondering WTF I've been doing all day! ;D
It's funny how after working on so many bikes, you just go through the motion! Most the parts were salvaged from my other gravel frame and/or were in my parts bin. I also took a chance and bought the LTwoo eGR for less than $300 USD during the Black Friday sales.
Anyways, here are the stats:
- Ceccotti RF025 Gravel Frameset Small aka "The Kung-Fu Panda"
- LTwoo eGR Groupset
- 45mm Depth Carbon Wheelset
- 38c Panaracer Gravelking slicks
- ZTTO 9-46t 11 Speed Cassette
- 38T Pass Quest Aero Chainring
- Deda Zero carbon gravel fork to accommodate 180mm rotors
- Goldix hollow alloy crankset
- AliEx cheap SPD pedals in red
- 34cm flared drop bars
- Lightweight UNO stem
- RYET 3D printed saddle
- Magnetic water bottles
- Carbon front computer mount
- A shit load of rainbow titanium cage screws
- Lots of clear protection decals
- Chain and down tube decal guards
Pros: Looks kinda cool. Lots of of mounts if that's your thing. Wide tire clearance, but I prefer 38-40c tires. Fairly cheap from the Surprised Store bought during the 11.11 sale. Total cost with custom paint, shipping and tax was $404 USD.
Cons: Heavier than my old 2017 CX frame I was using for gravel. Bike clocks in close to 8kg and that's not even mounting my other wheelset with knobby gravel tires. Also the geometry is kinda funky, so I'm running a few extra stem spacers until I get used to it.
I still need to test ride it. Tuning the eGR was a breeze since I'm already using the ER9 for road.
Finished photos attached!
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Crazy but I love it. How did the eGR setup go? How well does it cope with the extremes of that range? I've been curious about that - 38t and 9-46 seems like the ideal gearing combo for it, given its limitations.
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Crazy but I love it. How did the eGR setup go? How well does it cope with the extremes of that range? I've been curious about that - 38t and 9-46 seems like the ideal gearing combo for it, given its limitations.
EGR was a breeze to setup. I've tuned 2 ER9 groupsets and not having to deal with an FD just made things easier.
A couple quick comparison between the EGR and ER9:
1. The EGR cage spring is tight ASF. While Shimano GRX gives you adjustability options, LTwoo said f**k it and gave the EGR the highest tension. On the ER9, I think it could have a bit more tension.
2. The RD shifts very fast and precise. No problems. Despite weighing more, I think LTwoo put a faster/stronger motor in the EGR.
3. The new LTwoo brake calipers are nice. One-piece alloy design and even better brake feel. I do have one thing to note. Even though I generally don't like the LTwoo adapter brackets, the one positive about them is that they seem to allow leeway for poorly faced caliper mounts. I've had no issues with brake alignment on 3 of my LTwoo equipped bikes.
4. EGR shift buttons have better haptic feedback. They require slightly more force, while the ER9 shift buttons are prone to accidental presses. Also I think the EGR shift levers are either carbon or some sort of carbon reenforced nylon. My ER9 levers are cold to the touch (alloy) while the EGR levers are not.
5. The EGR RD battery cable port is much more recessed into the RD. I still applied rubber cement (liquid tape) and dielectric grease, but crossing fingers the EGR appears to be more moisture resistant.
I might switch over to a 9-50t cassette and longer chain. Though some have reported less than ideal shifting. Since 46t is the official max size for the RD.
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Love it! The pearl white is a really nice colour!
How are you satisfied with the padels are they any good? If so, would be interested in a link.
And I would be also interested in the magnetic bottle system?
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Nice build! And the black fork pairs well with the white frame.
- 34cm flared drop bars
Woah, that's narrow! How wide are the drops?
Also the geometry is kinda funky,
I felt the same initially, lots of wheel flop, probably because of the very slack head tube angle and high trail. I'm used to it now though, and I like the confidence that the long wheelbase gives me on bumpy descents.
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Love it! The pearl white is a really nice colour!
How are you satisfied with the padels are they any good? If so, would be interested in a link.
And I would be also interested in the magnetic bottle system?
The only reason I use these pedals is due to the somewhat compact dimensions for a flat, 1-sided SPD pedal. Most SPD pedals are clunky and made for MTB'ing. Also I prefer nylon plastic, because when moving my bike around, alloy SPD pedals have a nasty habit of dinging and scratching stuff.
I don't really care for the magnetic bottles either, but I use them due to the gritty dirt in Southern California. The fine grit sticks to regular bottles and scratches them like crazy on standard bottle cages. This is my 2nd pair. My 1st pair of magnetic bottles lasted 2 years before falling apart . ;D
Here are the pedals, unfortunately they raised the price. I bought my pair for $8.50 USD:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802459405646.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802459405646.html)
Magnetic bottles, I bought mine for less than $10 USD:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807191295266.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807191295266.html)
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Nice build! And the black fork pairs well with the white frame.
Woah, that's narrow! How wide are the drops?
I felt the same initially, lots of wheel flop, probably because of the very slack head tube angle and high trail. I'm used to it now though, and I like the confidence that the long wheelbase gives me on bumpy descents.
The drops are 460mm. In retrospect, I probably should have went with the 38cm hoods & 500mm drop version, but since my riding consist of combined trail and road, it's a trade-off going either way (aero on the flats vs more control on the trails). 460mm drops still give plenty of control. :)
The drop bars:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806404062021.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806404062021.html)
I just took the bike on it's maiden ride for about 64km (40mi). Within the first 5 minutes of riding I had to adjust the seat post higher by 2cm. I also pushed my saddle all the way back. Even then the bike is very upright. I'd almost be tempted to slam the stem, but since this bike will also see mountain trail use, I'll leave it as-is. The high trail and slack angle was a bit of surprise as well, very different to my road bikes and even my previous gravel bikes which were more CX oriented. Where the bike shines is on the climbs. The moment I hit elevation, it felt really good on steep angles. On the rough downhill I barely felt any trail buzz, it's really compliant. Steering felt a bit slow, at one point I checked just to make sure the bearings weren't seized! The most interesting part is how easy it is to track stand the bike. That's a plus when riding technical trails.
Overall, I'm quite satisfied. Today I had a few people ask about the bike. Also I rolled up at a stop with a group ride and they just looked at the bike as if it were from a different planet! ;D
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Last night I was having a bit of a panic, because my other wheelset front wheel wasn't fitting. I thought there was an alignment issue due to being a 15x100 front wheel with a 12mm adapter, but I opted to sleep on it and tackle it first thing in the morning. Luckily I was able to solve the problem and get the thru axle inserted into the fork! It just needed a bit of cleaning and a little TLC! Anyways, now it's time to tackle some heavier duty trails on this setup!
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I finally got a chance to hit some single track dirt trails with the RF025/G056 frameset and this bike is definitely designed to be a trail climber. As I mentioned earlier track standing on this bike is really easy. While on the trails, the frame allows for really nimble control over technical terrain. Also when grinding up steep elevation, you can really dig in by lowering your body for efficient climbing output. I finally got my seat post and saddle position adjusted just right, though I'm thinking of switching to a -17° degree stem without cutting the steerer. It'll allow me to stretch out just slightly on the flats, but I can still stay upright on the climbs and trails.
Anyways, I'm completely sold on this frameset in terms of value and geometry especially if you intend to ride in steep terrain. This is definitely a dirt climbing bike. The only downsides is that I wish the frame weighed a bit less (mine was about 1160g in size small) and T47 adds weight over other BB setups.
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Just confirmed the Riro/Racework 24mm carbon cranksets fit perfectly into the T47 86.5mm bottom bracket with no seizing. For me, this frameset needs the extra weight reduction! ;D
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Just confirmed the Riro/Racework 24mm carbon cranksets fit perfectly into the T47 86.5mm bottom bracket with no seizing. For me, this frameset needs the extra weight reduction! ;D
Just be happy to know the frame can take some abuse. I am regularly riding mine at 25+kph on gravel and much faster downhill with the odd drop off. It has held up fine and I weigh 100kg. The only regret is not having a set of aluminum rims as I now have more than a few dings in the carbon ones.
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Just be happy to know the frame can take some abuse. I am regularly riding mine at 25+kph on gravel and much faster downhill with the odd drop off. It has held up fine and I weigh 100kg. The only regret is not having a set of aluminum rims as I now have more than a few dings in the carbon ones.
After swapping out the crankset back to carbon and using my lightweight SPD pedals, I was able to drop weight a bit. Considering I'm running electronic and the frame has a sturdier trail focused build, the slight weight increase isn't a deal breaker. I'm about 70kg, though I could probably drop 5-10kg, but I like food too much!
What depth carbon wheels are you running? For my trail wheelset, I'm using MTB 29er wheels at 30mm depth and 28h spokes. Less surface to damage and a bit more durability. I'm not a fan of deep depth wheels on gravel bikes and/or running any components that you can't afford to replace. I've wiped out on loose dirt, trail ruts and even over tree roots. Plus there's everything from jagged rocks, baby heads and other crap that'll mess up nice wheels.
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I like food too much!
What depth carbon wheels are you running? For my trail wheelset, I'm using MTB 29er wheels at 30mm depth and 28h spokes. Less surface to damage and a bit more durability.
30 years ago I occasionally raced and was MUCH lighter but I am over 50 now and love my food as well LOL.
I am using 50mm deep x 29mm wide elite ENT wheels so I don't really care THAT much about them but they are fast on and off road. I run 35mm gravelkings ss and usually have an average speed of 30-35 kph over a 1-2 hr ride with and less than 100m climbing. FWIW these days my ftp is around 250 on a good day.
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30 years ago I occasionally raced and was MUCH lighter but I am over 50 now and love my food as well LOL.
I am using 50mm deep x 29mm wide elite ENT wheels so I don't really care THAT much about them but they are fast on and off road. I run 35mm gravelkings ss and usually have an average speed of 30-35 kph over a 1-2 hr ride with and less than 100m climbing. FWIW these days my ftp is around 250 on a good day.
I'm guessing you have more rolling hills type terrain? In that case, probably deep dish wheels are better! Unfortunately for me if I want to ride off-road it's straight to to the mountains. Anywhere from 600-1000m is the typical ride for me on both road and off-road. :'( ;D
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Second ride today and man was it great. That bike is a real fun machine. And I love how it feels. The handling is great and I felt very secure even going fast on bumby gravel.
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I'm guessing you have more rolling hills type terrain? In that case, probably deep dish wheels are better! Unfortunately for me if I want to ride off-road it's straight to to the mountains. Anywhere from 600-1000m is the typical ride for me on both road and off-road. :'( ;D
Yes, you are correct. I live along a river and can do a 160 km loop without climbing 300m in total LOL. Away from the river it's better but nothing drastic. A place we call the wall is a 1.5 km climb with average an 8%. That loop is about 75km and can do most of it off road if I want to. The only mountains I have climbed are on the north east coast of the US and Cabot trail in NS Canada.
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I literally have nothing bad to say about this frame. It's sturdy, handles great and feels like a modern gravel bike from a handling perspective. Only downside I see is lack of triangle storage space, but it has enough cage bolts to add racks and bags. Also buying from the Ceccotti/Surprised Store was a solid buying experience. It's strange they don't get enough hype on here. They have great discounts during AliEx sales, solid communication and I was more than happy with the paintwork and frame quality.
Also the RF25/G056 looks weird at first, but you eventually get used to it! ;D
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Hi everyone,
I'm planning on upgrading my G056 with the following components and would appreciate you feedback:
- SRAM Force AXS DUB Powermeter 1x12 crankset (question should i choose dub or dub wide?)
- 42T Passquest 8 Bolt 3mm Offset (will that work with the crankset above?)
- SRAM XPLR APEX AXS etap rear derailleur and STIs
- Garbaruk Cage (Shimano version)
- Spedado 12s 11-50T cassette for HG
- Shimano 12S Chain
Any experience if that will work well?
thanks in advance!
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Why are you considering Apex XPLR with a Garbaruk cage and not a GX Eagle AXS rear derailleur?
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Why are you considering Apex XPLR with a Garbaruk cage and not a GX Eagle AXS rear derailleur?
out of pure ignorance ;D
But looking at both I still would prefer the Apex XPLR if that would work (any idea if?) cause it would be quite lighter and for me also cheaper.
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After conducting further research, it appears that at least some people have successfully fitted the Rival AXS eTap derailleur with a Garbaruk cage, making it work with an 11-50T cassette. My plan is to start by using the SRAM-compatible version of the Garbaruk cage and 12s normal chain (YBN SLA e.g.). If that doesn’t work as well as expected, I can still try switching the pulley wheels.
What I'm still unsure about is if I should choose a dub or dub wide crankset and which chainring would be appropriate.
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After conducting further research, it appears that at least some people have successfully fitted the Rival AXS eTap derailleur with a Garbaruk cage, making it work with an 11-50T cassette. My plan is to start by using the SRAM-compatible version of the Garbaruk cage and 12s normal chain (YBN SLA e.g.). If that doesn’t work as well as expected, I can still try switching the pulley wheels.
I found probably the same videos and forum posts suggesting that you can use an XPLR derailleur with a 10-50. I would highly advice not to waste your time and money. I was able to make it work a few times in the bike stand but it was never consistent and would not work when riding. Save yourself the trouble and just get the previous generation GX AXS derailleur.
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I found probably the same videos and forum posts suggesting that you can use an XPLR derailleur with a 10-50. I would highly advice not to waste your time and money. I was able to make it work a few times in the bike stand but it was never consistent and would not work when riding. Save yourself the trouble and just get the previous generation GX AXS derailleur.
great, thanks for the inside. So I will go down the GX AXS route. What setup are you running specifically now?
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great, thanks for the inside. So I will go down the GX AXS route. What setup are you running specifically now?
Rival AXS shifters, GX AXS rear derailleur, X01 10-50 cassette, X01 chain, Force Wide 1x crank with 42 tooth chainring and Sigeyi power meter on a LCG071.
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I would highly advice not to waste your time and money. I was able to make it work a few times in the bike stand but it was never consistent and would not work when riding. Save yourself the trouble and just get the previous generation GX AXS derailleur.
Was this WITH the Garbaruk cage @fhold mentioned he was planning to get or standard ? I have seen the testing as well and it was ALWAYS with the standard cage.
Also, as far as cranks go I have had both the wide and narrow on my G056. I think I like the wide for the extra Q factor but that is all. You need extra spacers to shim it out is the only difference mounting. It uses the same internal bearing BB.
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Was this WITH the Garbaruk cage @fhold mentioned he was planning to get or standard ? I have seen the testing as well and it was ALWAYS with the standard cage.
Also, as far as cranks go I have had both the wide and narrow on my G056. I think I like the wide for the extra Q factor but that is all. You need extra spacers to shim it out is the only difference mounting. It uses the same internal bearing BB.
I was using a stock Rival XPLR as that was what I had seen videos and comments about. Investing more money for the Garbaruk cage on the chance that it maybe works seems silly to me when the GX just works out of the box.
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GX has an excellent clutch as well - given the wide range gearing I expect that potentially this is being used for more technical terrain as well where the extra dampening really comes in handy. While the GX is more expensive it's a great choice.
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I was using a stock Rival XPLR as that was what I had seen videos and comments about. Investing more money for the Garbaruk cage on the chance that it maybe works seems silly to me when the GX just works out of the box.
Those cages have been known to work with and they are advertised to do so.
You are correct though, if you have the cash to spend on the GX it would be the better option.
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Hi,
I recently bought this frame from suprised store and while assembling it I noticed some concerning holes in the carbon inside the seat tube.
Should I be worried about this? Is the frame compromised? I've marked two areas where these holes are located. I pressed on these spots with my finger and don’t seem to be cracked. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
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Yes, the frame is compromised. Ship it to me, so I can properly dispose of it! ;D
Seriously though, are you sure those are holes? Looks like excess carbon fiber. I don't think these frames are built using EPS molding, so the interior won't be perfect. Mine has been rock solid. Probably my most sturdiest CF frame to date. I don't think you should worry. ;)
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Hi all,
do you think this frame might be viable also as a allroad endurance-ish bike?
Reach and stack are what I'm looking for, but I'm afraid the wide tyre clearance could look funny with 28/32c road tires, what do you think?
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do you think this frame might be viable also as a allroad endurance-ish bike?
That's pretty much been my primary use, hasn't been a problem for me with 30mm GP5000s on 45/55mm 9Velo wheels. I've got a separate set of wheels for gravel but they are used very rarely.
...Though I will say, if I was shopping now, I'd probably look for something with a UDH instead. Just more future-proof.
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Thanks!
I ended giving up a few nice-to-haves as the real struggle is geometry and the chance to fit 35/38ish tires
Do you have any picture where I ca seenthe gaps around tires?
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Hi all,
do you think this frame might be viable also as a allroad endurance-ish bike?
Reach and stack are what I'm looking for, but I'm afraid the wide tyre clearance could look funny with 28/32c road tires, what do you think?
I think 32c tires would look fine. 28c would probably look a little off. The geometry of this frame is a bit weird at first, but now I love it. The short back end gives it good stability.
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If you are concerned about the visual aesthetics, I think rim depth has more to do with it than tyre width. You normally view a bike from the side rather than the front which is where the tyre gap would be visible.
If you are that worried and only plan on using 28/32mm tyres then a gravel frame might not be the best choice and you may have to look for an endurance frame.
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I think 32c tires would look fine. 28c would probably look a little off. The geometry of this frame is a bit weird at first, but now I love it. The short back end gives it good stability.
Yeah I'm a bit worried about the seat tube length, if the dimensions on Aliexpress are right, in M size it would be 40 mm shorter than my current bike, and I already have most of my seatpost exposed, I might need a longer one for this frame and end up looking very weird
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Do you have any picture where I ca seenthe gaps around tires?
Nothing from the front (and the bike is disassembled currently for spring maintenance and a replacement bar) but page 5 has a picture from the side with 30mm tires.
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Yeah I'm a bit worried about the seat tube length, if the dimensions on Aliexpress are right, in M size it would be 40 mm shorter than my current bike, and I already have most of my seatpost exposed, I might need a longer one for this frame and end up looking very weird
The G056/RF25 frame uses a standard 27.2mm seat post. Would you need something longer than a 400mm seat post length?
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Nothing from the front (and the bike is disassembled currently for spring maintenance and a replacement bar) but page 5 has a picture from the side with 30mm tires.
thanks! It looks great, is it a XL?
I find the M to look much smaller, with the seat clamp way below the wheel top
The G056/RF25 frame uses a standard 27.2mm seat post. Would you need something longer than a 400mm seat post length?
I currently have a saddle height of roughly 77 cm, so I think a 400 mm seatpost would work but with not much into the seat tube. More an aesthetic consideration than anything
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thanks! It looks great, is it a XL?
I find the M to look much smaller, with the seat clamp way below the wheel top
Mine's a Large.
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Site seems to not be letting me upload images (error 500).
Here's imgur versions of a picture with skinnier tires for the person who was curious. 30mm tires from the front, and an updated side view:
(https://i.imgur.com/qJGSb1c.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yWkABAa.jpeg)
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Site seems to not be letting me upload images (error 500).
Here's imgur versions of a picture with skinnier tires for the person who was curious. 30mm tires from the front, and an updated side view:
(https://i.imgur.com/qJGSb1c.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yWkABAa.jpeg)
Looks fantastic! What color is that?
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Nice, are you keeping your setup dedicated to road or will you do some gravel on it? I have a 2nd wheelset on mine that I plan on installing 32c tires for the less gnarly terrain. ;D
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That's the chameleon green / purple. The color looks different based on the lighting.
I've got a second set of wheels with 42mm tan wall Pathfinders for gravel, but my primary use is endurance road / all-road.
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I'm wondering about how long brake hoses I need for my build. Anyone remember the length of their brake hoses? I'm thinking about size S or XS for reference.
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I'm wondering about how long brake hoses I need for my build. Anyone remember the length of their brake hoses? I'm thinking about size S or XS for reference.
Standard rear brake hose length should be fine. What differs more will be your handle bar width which will determine the length of your hoses.
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I'm wondering about how long brake hoses I need for my build. Anyone remember the length of their brake hoses? I'm thinking about size S or XS for reference.
For my Large build, I needed 1000/1700mm length as the standard length was too short. You might be able to get away with standard length for a X or XS.
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For a 180cm tall person, with a usual saddle height of 77-78 cm, would you suggest a M or a L?
I'm kinda looking for the unreachable combo short reach+tall stack
(My current road bike ha almost the same geometry as the size M, I'd need a slightly taller stack but then I'm concerned about the longer reach)
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I slapped 32c semi-slicks on a 2nd wheelset and put them on my G056/RF25 frame. In this configuration, it makes for a nimble all-arounder/commuter type bike with a 38t + 9-46t cassette. I did try some really skinny road tires, but they looked funny. 32c tires are probably as narrow as I'd go on this frame!
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I slapped 32c semi-slicks on a 2nd wheelset and put them on my G056/RF25 frame. In this configuration, it makes for a nimble all-arounder/commuter type bike with a 38t + 9-46t cassette. I did try some really skinny road tires, but they looked funny. 32c tires are probably as narrow as I'd go on this frame!
Those brands should engage you as a photographer for their products. Looks really good and the photos make it stand out. This frame looks really tempting for a gravel build. I've looked into the G068 and the GR201 but both are really stretched out. This one seems to be better for someone with longer legs, shorter torso and not the best flexibility.
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Those brands should engage you as a photographer for their products. Looks really good and the photos make it stand out. This frame looks really tempting for a gravel build. I've looked into the G068 and the GR201 but both are really stretched out. This one seems to be better for someone with longer legs, shorter torso and not the best flexibility.
Thanks! I just shoot the bikes in my backyard against an old fence! The RF25/G056 is a really slack frame. I can ride this setup all day and not feel fatigued. In fact I had to get a longer stem because I was too upright. It really excels in climbing. I had some people think it was a MTB frame converted for gravel. Though if I could change one thing, I wish it had UDH just for the added flexibility and future proofing. Everything else works great.