Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: patliean1 on January 10, 2023, 10:08:55 AM
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So I have one of these coming my way. Attached is a photo from the factory
https://rinascltabike.com/granite-aero-disc-road-frame/ (https://rinascltabike.com/granite-aero-disc-road-frame/)
-Geometry is more road than gravel
-I ordered a size M/54
-No integrated handlebars, will be using my tried and true FSA NO.69/SRS headset to route the cables.
-700c*38mm max tires size
-While I have an actual gravel bike (Yoeleo G21), it's mostly overkill around here.
-Chose unpainted in order to inspect any flaws, lower the production time, and I genuinely enjoy painting my own frames.
I asked if they share this frame with any other brands, and their response was:
"We share the frame mold with only one friend across internet"
Obviously it's Airwolf since the photos are identical on both websites.
Will keep you posted...
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I look forward to hearing you say "Rinasclta" on the youtube video. I've tried a few times to say it myself and my tongue is now tied in knots!
Jokes aside, this looks like potentially the perfect one frame, two wheelsets sort of bike! What holds me back is how much punishment can an "all road" carbon frameset take on the more gnarly stuff?
Cant wait to see what you think Pat.
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I look forward to hearing you say "Rinasclta" on the youtube video. I've tried a few times to say it myself and my tongue is now tied in knots!
LoL I actually asked them how to properly pronounce the name. Below is their response...
"Rinasclta" comes from Italian word "rinascita", means " reborn". As in the beginning we were just a OEM/ODM factory who didn't focus on our own brand, but with Rinasclta brand we started to work more as a brand, which means a "reborn". It's pronounced "rin-a-scal-ta". You can also check the video from one of our collaborators in UK
https://youtu.be/tsnb4rXaO6I (https://youtu.be/tsnb4rXaO6I)
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They should hire a designer :D
Slapping a big white logo on your products just yells "cheap".
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So they took an Italian word and introduced a typo? Nice
Could also be a misunderstanding when discussing the branding and then just accepted it.
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Patrick,
sorry for the side question, will FSA NO.69/SRS work with Wispace frame T1500?
I want to run the cables under my 110mm -17 degree stem ( not integrated) but still hidden in the frame as much as I can.
Will it work out?
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Patrick,
sorry for the side question, will FSA NO.69/SRS work with Wispace frame T1500?
I want to run the cables under my 110mm -17 degree stem ( not integrated) but still hidden in the frame as much as I can.
Will it work out?
In principle it should work. The headtube opening on the Winspace uses a standard headset bearing size. However your biggest issue will be whether or not you've cut your steer tube too short, because the overall stack height of the NO.69/SRS system is taller than normal.
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The dimension on the picture comes at 76 mm, so I assume I will have at least 7cm of fork left.
Normal stem is 4 cm, so in theory should be at least 3cm left..
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Nice choice! Gravel bikes are a bit overkill if you're just riding rough-road or dirt roads mixed with pavement. These new aero-gravel / CX / light-gravel / wider-tire endurance road bikes are a nice option now... or whatever the new marketing label ends up being lol.
It does look like the Airwolf YFR066, and (previously?) Chasing wind RF22; I was looking closely at this frame as well, but decided against it.
YFR066 thread:
https://chinertown.com/index.php?topic=3793.0
I'm looking forward to seeing the build and review!
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Yo the frameset has arrived.
Upon quick inspection the "quality" seems to be good. Both headset bearing cups are smooth and the caliper mounts appear to have been faced. Also the bottom bracket area has been faced or at least leveled very well. Overall the frame feels beefy and is what I'd expect from a brand being supplied by an OEM factory.
Did I receive a Hambini special? Maybe. However, since the frame is unpainted the factory probably just pulled inventory off the shelf.
Frame: Size 54 (M)
Handlebars: 400mm Width
Overview video coming sometime soon. Below are some photos and weights.
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Oo this looks interesting can't wait for the video drop. Id be interested in building one of these bikes
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Looks interesting, seems it's a fully internal cable frame, what kind of stem and spacer do you use? Can't wait to watch the video man
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First Look and impressions is live.
YouTube Search: Rinasclta Granite - Budget Alternative to Specialized Crux, Trek Domane, and Ostro Gravel?
https://youtu.be/a4j7ygHIkgM (https://youtu.be/a4j7ygHIkgM)
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AYOOOOOO THE D JOKE GOT ME LOL
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Not my photos, but from a fellow YouTube viewer. ICAN Aero 50 wheels. Size 58 frame.
Considering I ordered a size 54 (I'm 6ft / 183cm) I'm gonna assume he's about 6'3" :o
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Very interested in getting a bike like this but with similar clearance to the crux (47mm). I only have room for 1 bike and the additional tire clearance will allow me to use my 40mm tires to do light singletrack.
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I suspect it will be a while before we see affordable Chinese brands offer direct competition (rather than cheaper alternatives) to a frame like the Specialized Crux. The Crux is basically an Aethos with 47c tire clearance.
Designing, engineering, and manufacturing a new frame and frame mold is very costly from what I'm told. The only way to keep the prices affordable to consumers would be to share the costs across several brands. Cinelli, Top Carbon, and ICAN all offer the same aero road frameset but at different price points: Pressure, TCRF040, and A40 respectively.
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My Granite frame is complete.
Paint: This is arguably my best paint job to date. It's a mix of chameleon green/purple paint, 3D glitter paint, and a 2K clear coat applied liberally. Rattle-can paint performs the worst in cold weather, so I kept the cans sitting in hot water between coats. This really helped prevent orange peel and paint drip.
Internal routing: As always, the FSA no69 headset system is a gamechanger. However, the supplied set of carbon handlebars isn't really designed for routing 4 cables (2 hydraulic + 2 mechanical shift). I ended up not using them. My go-to bars have always been both the carbon and alloy aero bars from Prime Bike Components. Makes handlebar routing a breeze and the ergonomics are TOP TIER. Sadly this frame uses the terribly designed front derailleur port similar to VeloBuild. This alone will probably be the reason I stick with Sram eTap going forward like I have with my previous two builds.
Only gotten a chance to ride it up/down the block to get sone photos. Will report back after a few rides.
-Size 54
-Weight: 7.9kg w/o pedals
-Ultegra R8020 (50/34 + 11-34t)
-4iiii Power Meter
-Yoeleo 35 Gravel Wheels
-Pathfinder Pro 38c Tires
-Prime Doyenne Aero Bars
-ZIPP 130mm -17 Stem
-FSA no.69/SRS Headset
-Fully Carbon Saddle
-Supacaz Bar Tape
-Kogel Bearings Ceramic Jockey Wheels
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Sadly this frame uses the terribly designed front derailleur port similar to VeloBuild. This alone will probably be the reason I stick with Sram eTap going forward like I have with my previous two builds.
This is the main reason I switched to AXS on my 177. That front derailleur cable stop thing is a terrible design and really makes front derailleur setup and shifting a drag.
The Airwolf version of this frame and the CX-002 were looking like great choices for my next gravel frame. Options are few for aero all-road/gravel frames and these ticked all the right boxes, but I'd really like the flexibility of running a mechanical 2x drivetrain if necessary.
I went with this one instead: https://www.ornanbike.com/best-chinese-carbon-gravel-bike-frames-with-flat-mount-type_p106.html
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Sweet paint job! That glitter effect must be cool in direct sunlight.
Sadly this frame uses the terribly designed front derailleur port similar to VeloBuild. This alone will probably be the reason I stick with Sram eTap going forward like I have with my previous two builds.
This is the main reason I switched to AXS on my 177. That front derailleur cable stop thing is a terrible design and really makes front derailleur setup and shifting a drag.
@patliean1 or @s3si1u, do you have any pictures of this issue explaining why it's a bad design? Just so I know what I'm getting myself into... maybe there's a decent solution?
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Paint: This is arguably my best paint job to date. It's a mix of chameleon green/purple paint, 3D glitter paint, and a 2K clear coat applied liberally. Rattle-can paint performs the worst in cold weather, so I kept the cans sitting in hot water between coats. This really helped prevent orange peel and paint drip.
Do you have some more info on the process? I am thinking about painting some frames myself like my Carbonda 696... How many layers of each and how many cans did you use?
I have watched the youtube videos of Etoe and in one of them he says he used 1 can of 2K primer (2 layers), 1 can of the color (1K) and again 1 can of 2K clearcoat. Does that seem correct? I would hate to have too little, but these 2K cans are expensive so you don't want to buy too much either...
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How many layers of each and how many cans did you use?
I have watched the youtube videos of Etoe and in one of them he says he used 1 can of 2K primer (2 layers), 1 can of the color (1K) and again 1 can of 2K clearcoat. Does that seem correct? I would hate to have too little, but these 2K cans are expensive so you don't want to buy too much either...
I used 2 cans each of 2k primer and 2k clear on my Carbonda 707 frame. You can probably get two coats or of one can, but once you mix the can you only have 24 hours. I wanted to sand between coats and make sure that each was fully dry do I needed a lot more than 24 hours.
In retrospect, one coat of primer would have been enough. Two coats of clear with give a more durable finish and I was able to fix a few issues from the first coat.
I followed ETOE as well but I'm not all that happy with how the Montana Cans color layer has held up. It chips pretty easily. Good coverage and easy to spray though, but I would not use it on another mountain or gravel bike.
Edit: would NOT use it for a gravel or mountain bike.
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I used 2 cans each of 2k primer and 2k clear on my Carbonda 707 frame. You can probably get two coats or of one can, but once you mix the can you only have 24 hours. I wanted to sand between coats and make sure that each was fully dry do I needed a lot more than 24 hours.
In retrospect, one coat of primer would have been enough. Two coats of clear with give a more durable finish and I was able to fix a few issues from the first coat.
I followed ETOE as well but I'm not all that happy with how the Montana Cans color layer has held up. It chips pretty easily. Good coverage and easy to spray though, but I would use it on another mountain or gravel bike.
Thanks. You did sand the primer before the color did you?
I think one layer of primer will not be enough since it will not be a new frame. The paint has been damaged in some spots so I will be using bondo and some sanding to remove dings and scratches.
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Never mind, I found your story about the painting process. Maybe sanding with 1500-2000 was a little too fine for the primer?
I found this: "600 to 800 Grit – This sandpaper grit range is perfect for sanding surface imperfections in the primer, prior to paint application. It is recommended to start at the low grit end and work your way up to 800 grit. "
https://sandpaperamerica.com/blog/the-correct-sandpaper-grits-for-sanding-car-paint/
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The front derailleur frame mount makes it a pain to route the housing. The tight angle you need to bend the housing to clear the bb then go up to the mount.
On this frame I had to removed the screw holding the front derailleur mount. Somehow I got the mount to hold to the frame from the tension of the housing.
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Do you have some more info on the process? I am thinking about painting some frames myself like my Carbonda 696... How many layers of each and how many cans did you use?
I have watched the youtube videos of Etoe and in one of them he says he used 1 can of 2K primer (2 layers), 1 can of the color (1K) and again 1 can of 2K clearcoat. Does that seem correct? I would hate to have too little, but these 2K cans are expensive so you don't want to buy too much either...
So the frame is actually split in half between two different colors
Top half of the frame: 3 coats of chameleon green/purple paint.
Bottom half: 3 coats of clear 3D effect glitter paint.
Entire frame: 3 coats of SprayMax 2K clearcoat.
None of colors used nor the clearcoat required even a full can of paint, respectively. Granted, I purposely wanted the raw carbon finish to bleed through the color. For perspective, when I painted my VB-168 in white paint, it required full two cans of paint. Just barely enough paint in fact.
No sanding required at all. Automotive vehicles don't get sanded went painted at the factory, so I haven't seen the value in it. Proper technique and good prep work will alleviate the need to sand anyway. Also it's winter time here so it's very cold outside. I would keep the paint cans sitting in a bucket of hot water between coats, to keep the paint warm. This has been biggest gamechanger to prevent both orange peel and paint drip.
Coat #1 - Light spray so the paint sticks.
Coat #2 - Moderate spray for coverage.
Coat #3 - Slow, full, and deliberate paint spray in close proximety to the frame. This is the coat which you start seeing the gloss build up. Both for the paint and the clearcoat.
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Never mind, I found your story about the painting process. Maybe sanding with 1500-2000 was a little too fine for the primer?
I found this: "600 to 800 Grit – This sandpaper grit range is perfect for sanding surface imperfections in the primer, prior to paint application. It is recommended to start at the low grit end and work your way up to 800 grit. "
https://sandpaperamerica.com/blog/the-correct-sandpaper-grits-for-sanding-car-paint/
You're probably right. 800 grit would have had a bit more tooth so the paint probably would have stuck better. However, the Montana Cans paint is soft and can also be damaged by to much pressure on it, so it likely still wouldn't be the most durable.
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So the frame is actually split in half between two different colors
Top half of the frame: 3 coats of chameleon green/purple paint.
Bottom half: 3 coats of clear 3D effect glitter paint.
Entire frame: 3 coats of SprayMax 2K clearcoat.
None of colors used nor the clearcoat required even a full can of paint, respectively. Granted, I purposely wanted the raw carbon finish to bleed through the color. For perspective, when I painted my VB-168 in white paint, it required full two cans of paint. Just barely enough paint in fact.
No sanding required at all. Automotive vehicles don't get sanded went painted at the factory, so I haven't seen the value in it. Proper technique and good prep work will alleviate the need to sand anyway. Also it's winter time here so it's very cold outside. I would keep the paint cans sitting in a bucket of hot water between coats, to keep the paint warm. This has been biggest gamechanger to prevent both orange peel and paint drip.
Coat #1 - Light spray so the paint sticks.
Coat #2 - Moderate spray for coverage.
Coat #3 - Slow, full, and deliberate paint spray in close proximety to the frame. This is the coat which you start seeing the gloss build up. Both for the paint and the clearcoat.
Thanks man. Do you happen to have some close-up pictures of the frame so we can better see how it turned out?
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Hi, very nice paint job ! I love this frame and just ordered the twin frame from airwolf. I can’t wait to read your report after a few rides, especially concerning the ratio stiffness/comfort! . Could you maybe make a picture of the tire clearance? I want to use it with 2 wheelsets, one with my beloved compass barlow pass (38mm) and one with someting more beefier like the pirelli cinturato or wtb nano 40c. I’m wondering if there will be enough space for 40c? Thank you for this great post!
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Coat #1 - Light spray so the paint sticks.
Coat #2 - Moderate spray for coverage.
Coat #3 - Slow, full, and deliberate paint spray in close proximety to the frame. This is the coat which you start seeing the gloss build up. Both for the paint and the clearcoat.
How long did you let each coat dry before spraying the next coat?
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Etoe advises about 10min. Do not let it dry! When it's dry he says you have to sand before the next layer.
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Lol there’s no rush folks. And not everyone has a professional painting studio with proper warmth and ventilation like our German brethren. Pragmatic not dogmatic…
At least 15-30 minutes between coats. And I would wait for the paint dry overnight before applying the clearcoat. Going slow and consistent prevents the need to sand.
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38c Pathfinder Pro tires at 45 psi. I reckon you could fit 40c tires under the following circumstances:
1- No front derailleur...1x setup
2- On non-super muddy roads only.
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38c Pathfinder Pro tires at 45 psi. I reckon you could fit 40c tires under the following circumstances:
1- No front derailleur...1x setup
2- On non-super muddy roads only.
Great ! Thank you for these details ! You last youtube video is absolutely amazing. I now can’t wait to receive my frame :-)
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Great ! Thank you for these details ! You last youtube video is absolutely amazing. I now can’t wait to receive my frame :-)
Wicked! What size and color did you order?
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I’m 6,2 inches with rather short torso, so I choose size 56 with the 120mm stem-handlebar combo. Complete black-matt, the only other color note of the built will be the small red stickers from my 3t discus stealth wheel set and the beige flanks from the René Herse tired. I’m very excited though :-)
By the way : great french boots !
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Testing my Magene EXAR DB58 Pro wheels paired with Conti GP5000 S TR 32c.
YouTube Search: Putting AERO Wheels On My Rinasclta Granite All Road Bike
https://youtu.be/MjTzJiRzmNE (https://youtu.be/MjTzJiRzmNE)
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Amazing how this pretty frame looks as nice with gravel as with road tires :-) I love the vittoria corsa 28c and always wanted to test the 32c version ; now I’m also curious about the gp5000. Thank you so much for sharing all that great stuff!
Philippe
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Amazing how this pretty frame looks as nice with gravel as with road tires :-) I love the vittoria corsa 28c and always wanted to test the 32c version ; now I’m also curious about the gp5000. Thank you so much for sharing all that great stuff!
Philippe
Thanks for the kind words. I would say the geometry overall is closer to an endurance road frame. Maybe just a tad longer. Pretty accessible bike fit for most people.
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Sick paint job and nice build. I tried once with spray.bike, but failed to realize how much humidity can affect the process. My steamy garage was not the ideal painting environment. :-\
Now I leave it to the professionals.
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And here another YouTubers assembly video with a lot of details.
Including the use of the LTWOO RX12 groupset which may be of interest for some.
https://youtu.be/VAOCtA2uz9k
BR Chris
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That was a great video because it highlighted issues I didn’t experience with myself. I used my own separate bar/stem and spacers, as well as my own bottom bracket.
Anyone using Rinasclta’s supplied bar and also bottom bracket should take note.
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Hi, are you still happy with your bike? I‘m slowly ending my built. I‘m very impressed : the bike has in my opinion excellent handling characteristics. It feels very zippy and yet comfortable. It dampens surprisingly very well. Maybe also because of the carbon handlebar combo?
The 40mm wtb nano tires are fitting perfectly in 1x12 modus. I will soon add a bigger cassette for the gravel wheelset (with a Garbaruk chain cage).
My only problem will now be my dilemma before each ride : wich one should I choose today : Mr Jekyll or Dr. Hyde ?
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My Rinasclta Granite has already done a 4 hour road race earlier this month. Passed the test easily.
The race profile consisted of tarmac, rough roads, packed gravel, and muddy trail sections...all during 30mph crosswinds and sleet/rain.
I ran 32c GP5000s TR S at 65psi. Worked very well. Could have probably even used 30c because the frame overall is fantastic when the roads get bad.
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FWIW I realized the geometry on this Rinasclta/Airwolf frame is the same as the Scott Addict (the endurance model, not RC).
It looks like they took the geometry of the Addict and gave it a facelift, maybe a bit more tire clearance as well? I'm currently shopping for a racier road frame to complement/replace my 177 but if I needed a third bike I would make it an endurance build and it would likely be this one (the Airwolf version though ;D).
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FWIW I realized the geometry on this Rinasclta/Airwolf frame is the same as the Scott Addict (the endurance model, not RC).
Huh, that's interesting. I any case I ended purchasing the frame from Airwolf myself, and I'm quite happy with it.
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Do you guys need the correct size 7x9 saddle clamps?
Here you go. They only provided me the 7x7 clamps when I bought this frame last year. I'm guessing they still only send the 7x7 mount.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrs5jHS
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Do you guys need the correct size 7x9 saddle clamps?
Here you go. They only provided me the 7x7 clamps when I bought this frame last year. I'm guessing they still only send the 7x7 mount.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrs5jHS
My Airwolf came with 7x9, but this is good to know for those who did not get the size they wanted.
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Any more updates on the Rinasclta or Airwolf version? I am thinking of looking for a "All road" bike and was thinking of the Airwolf version. Sounds like it is a good bike so far besides if someone recommends something else?
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Looking to build myself a bike with this frame too. Watched most (if not all) Youtube content on this frame and now I'm a little worried about chainring clearance based on this:
YouTube Search: My Rinasclta Granite Is FINISHED! - Aero, Gravel, All Road
dus (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDiDwf8ah5o&t=376s)
Patrick/patliean1: you did use shims on your crankset to increase clearance for the small chainring w.r.t. chainstay right? Was this strictly needed to enable motion or did you want to increase safety margins in case of heavy usage?
My Granite frame is complete.
Only gotten a chance to ride it up/down the block to get sone photos. Will report back after a few rides.
-Size 54
-Weight: 7.9kg w/o pedals
-Ultegra R8020 (50/34 + 11-34t)
-4iiii Power Meter
-Yoeleo 35 Gravel Wheels
-Pathfinder Pro 38c Tires
-Prime Doyenne Aero Bars
-ZIPP 130mm -17 Stem
-FSA no.69/SRS Headset
-Fully Carbon Saddle
-Supacaz Bar Tape
-Kogel Bearings Ceramic Jockey Wheels
I see you build up with Ultegra R8020 (11 speed) which has a 43.5mm chain line, whereas Shimano (but also Campagnolo) 12 speed groups have 44.5mm chain line. This will probably save a shim in my case already, as I want to build it up with Campa Chorus 12 speed (48-32T front).
Have other people experienced chainring clearance problems with this (or the equivalent Airwolf YFR066) frame?
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Patrick/patliean1: you did use shims on your crankset to increase clearance for the small chainring w.r.t. chainstay right? Was this strictly needed to enable motion or did you want to increase safety margins in case of heavy usage?
You probably don't need shims, but shims are inexpensive so it doesn't hurt to have them just in case. I'm only running a 50-34t crank because it's very flat where I live. If you were running Shimano 46-36t (or SRAM AXS) it's not an issue.