Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: brushwood69 on March 02, 2023, 02:34:29 PM
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Hi Everybody,
Im going to document both my Chasing Wind GT20 Gravel Frame build and all the equipment I'm going to use on my first expedition ride. Im trying to do this on as small a budget as possible. I ordered the frame in January and it has just arrived today.
It's a 58CM in what they call brown green gloss
I also bought a 2nd hand XL racing frame off ebay in January for £350 ($417) it had a nearly new Shimano 105 hydraulic group set, which I will aim to modify and move to the new frame.
It was extremely well packed and took me around 10minutes to unwind all the foam!
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This is the bike I bought as a transplant bike! I will sell the frame(alu) & forks(carbon) wheels, stem and bars for as much as I can to reduce even further the 105 groupset costs!
Thanks for reading BW
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This is the bike bits unpacked
BW69
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This is the bike I bought as a transplant bike! I will sell the frame(alu) & forks(carbon) wheels, stem and bars for as much as I can to reduce even further the 105 groupset costs!
Thanks for reading BW
This donor frame actually looks quite nice lol. Did you ride it?
Also, great looking color on your new frame!
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Thank you! yeah the colour is great just like the new enve mog ( https://www.enve.com/product/mog/#/dashboard (https://www.enve.com/product/mog/#/dashboard) ) just way way cheaper! I rode the bike for 100m the frame is brand new and may have been ridden a couple of time but it was XL and not a gravel frame and I only bought it to stip it.
It's light as well!
fork 530g
frame somewhere between 1250g and 1300g
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Looking forward to your build, always interesting to see how others solve some of the practical issues that may come up.
Here the link to the thread with my two builds for reference:
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3552.0.html
BR Chris
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Bit of help or advise please!
This frame comes with the integrated cable setup , however !! I either drill the handlebars so I can feed cables from stem into the bars or go and buy the additional cap to allows cables to enter the head tube.
So is it safe to put a small oval big enough to take 2 cables in the bars as shown in the picture?
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Bit of help or advise please!
This frame comes with the integrated cable setup , however !! I either drill the handlebars so I can feed cables from stem into the bars or go and buy the additional cap to allows cables to enter the head tube.
So is it safe to put a small oval big enough to take 2 cables in the bars as shown in the picture?
Thats a critical area of the handlebar, which is a critical area of the bike itself. The stem will put a lot of stress there from clamping on. That's the last place you want to weaken.
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Thats a critical area of the handlebar, which is a critical area of the bike itself. The stem will put a lot of stress there from clamping on. That's the last place you want to weaken.
Indeed. I had a similar handlebar and after tightening the faceplate of the stem there was a very small crack right next to the faceplate (could even have been the paint...) and I scrapped the handlebar.
You are already taking a gamble with these handlebars. No need to try your luck any further...
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+1 to above. You can get handlebar which has cable pass through holes already done from factory.
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I also would advise against this if you don't have your bike fit/measurements dialed in. It's going to be an annoying task if you ever need to swap stems, with the cables being routed inside the stem.
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Thanks for all the comments. I have gone for this bar which has the integrated port built in! https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005163400066.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.4.5214f19cS3tCOf (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005163400066.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.4.5214f19cS3tCOf)
This weekend I hope to start with the tubeless wheelset build. I have ALEX RA 1.9 rims from my Cube race bike that I never used as upgrade to carbon ones.
BW69
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Just sorted out a set of wheels to try a sizing fit to see if I needed more spacers. Pleased with how it looks with the tan side wall tyres.
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Small update. Had a logo designed and applied bike name and head tube logo (red river is a local river that was once used for mining Tin which is red) Modified the FSA gossamer to single ring. Poped on the GRX rear mech and stared the internal cable routing which was much easier than expected through the bike as it sees it has channels in the frame. Im sure the handlebars will be harder.
Now a quick question! Chainline? having the single ring attached to the double on the big ring side gives me 45mm calculations does this sound about right putting in on the inside would give me around 40mm? Help or suggestions?
Cheers
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Since the last update I started to have a panic about the fully integrated cabling on this frame and handlebars so I stopped the build and ordered the basic headset cap with the hole for the cables. These came this week so if I had any issues I could revert and not have to wait for parts etc.
While I was waiting I thought I would try the routing and this turned out much easier that I was expecting and before I knew it they were through the frame.
The parts tuned up this week so with a long weekend holiday I started the process of popping ends on hydralics and running the gear inner for the rear mech.
In the end I came i just of £1000 $1240 for the full build . I had fun building it and would definately do this again.
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I recently bought the Chasing Wind G20 frameset, when I came to building it up routing the rear gear cable was a nightmare.
I wanted to use a Shimano Di2 cable and tried for about 3hrs to get it fitted. The internals of the chainstay doesn't appear to have a hole big enough.
The other rear chainstay, non drive side was fine. The brake hose went in within seconds.
I contacted Chasing Wind and they were less than helpful, no offer to replace the frame, no reason why the cable won't fit.
They did tell me to cut the Di2 cable in half and re-solder it, what a total joke of a company.
I believe this issue is caused by the joint between the rear triangle and the frame.
I have spent money on new decals and invisiframe protection, now I have to remove them and send the frame back.
Has anyone else had an issue with cable routing along the drive side chainstay?
(https://ibb.co/y8k3gK5)