Would you be able to measure the tire clearance for me? I know airwolf says 40mm, but I’m hoping it’s more like an aspero at 45mm… Thanks!
I am planning on mounting 38mm tyres so I will measure the inflated tyre width with calipers and remaining clearance to chainstays.
Biggest issue so far was the supplied d-shaped compression plug. The supplied plug does not have a threaded insert to accept a bolt to screw the stem top cap down. There was also no screw for the top cap supplied. I have contacted Airwolf and they have said there is a problem and will send me a new one. (IMG_7367,7368)
Tyre clearance measurements.
Pirelli Cinturato Gravel H 35mm mounted to 30mm wide (24mm internal) rims = measured width 36mm
Driveside clearance = ~12mm
Non-driveside clearance = ~10mm
So say roughly 20mm additional width available - 4mm minimum clearance each side (8mm total) = additional 12mm available
36mm + 12mm = approx. maximum 48mm clearance or conservatively 45mm.
This doesn’t account for any reduced clearance due to front derailleur. I haven’t mounted it yet but 105 di2 front derailleur doesn’t look like it will be a problem.
I will upload some photos when I have a chance.
Looks like my earlier tape measurements were taken too close to the seat tube and I should have bought larger tyres!
Looking to buy one of these frames and use 40mm tires with a di2 setup like yours, what is the tire clearance like with an di2 front mech? Is it limited at all by the front mech? Thanks in advance
Very close to complete now ;D
Weighs in at 7.79kg without chain, pedals and bottle cages so will be in low-mid 8kg range with these.
No issues to report other than what I have already posted.
50/34 crankset fits and would be the maximum size based on clearances.
A couple of build tips
- remember to use foam brake cable housing so brake lines don't make noise in the frame
- use carbon assembly paste as seatpost will likely slip otherwise
- torque wrench essential
- download the Aspero 5 assembly manual and follow torque amounts and details in there ;)
- Out front garmin mount - Style 1 > https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002820591761.html
If anyone has any questions, happy to answer them.
Build complete! 8.59kg as pictured.
In regards to saddle, a SMP Dynamic was the only spare saddle I have at the moment and I have the carbon railed version on another bike. Angle looks a bit off in photos so need to adjust it, but they work well for me.
Changes still to be made
- PD-M520 SPD pedals (currently have PD-EH500 installed)
- 11-36t 12 speed rear cassette (currently have 11-30t installed)
Looks great!
How do the handlebars measure up at the hoods and the drops for the 42cm one you've got?
So I managed to resolve this today! Turns out the top cap screw was very tightly screwed into the compression nut and it looked like they were one piece. I mounted the larger screw into a bench vice and with a bit of effort unscrewed the smaller top cap screw.
Just to confirm - are you after the handlebar drop and a reach measurement including the R8170 levers?
An idea on reach and drop would be great, but even just the width - how true 42cm is and how much the bar flares?
the bike looks very cool, thanks for posting so much detail. I'm looking forward to hearing your riding feedback
Is the compression plug just a modified standard plug cut to fit the fork steerer. It looks a bit rough with some very sharp edges which would concern me .
https://shop.cervelo.com/collections/parts/products/c-steerer-fork-insert-kit-hs-preload-compression-plug.
Thanks for all the pictures l45er! A great looking bike. Lovely result.
Do you have any tire clearance pictures of the front fork?
Hi, everyone. I am planning on buying the same frameset but I was wondering what would be the best, or safest way to go about it, as I am not familiar with PayPal and uncertain using it.
I"ve been in contact with Werner Wei at wernerwei@yaoflying.com, e-mailing about size and colour. I've seen that you can also order the frame on Airwolf's website and on Aliexpress, though unfortunately not in the color I want and at a 100 euro price difference.
Have any of you had any contact with Werner and ordered through him? Or have any you ordered using the Airwolf website? In order words, are they legit? Or should I just order through Aliexpress, choose a different color and stomach the price difference?
Personally I would be reluctant to deal directly with a random contact(?) due to the possibility of not getting what I paid for (or anything at all). At least via AliExpress there is some buyer protection if things go wrong. But ultimately up to you as to how much risk you're willing to accept vs price.
Would be great if you could post some shots of the internals as well to get a picture of the level of wrinkling inside. BB and down tube as well as head tube would be nice to see :)
What size of rear brake rotor are you on this bike? I ordered 160mm to go with Shimano grx brakes, but it doesn’t fit. I’m wondering if I need an adapter for the calliper or if I need to go down to a 140mm?
If an adapter is needed any suggestions where to find it?
Thanks
Sorry but as the bike is fully built I won't be able to help with that.
I did post a photo down the seat tube on this post http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4109.msg45930.html#msg45930 (http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4109.msg45930.html#msg45930). It was very clean.
Other than that, I can only comment that I didn't notice any anomalies when building the bike up. The BB went together fine, same with fork and headtube.
Someone else may be able to provide photos when they receive a frame.
I used 140mm rear rotor. Fitted without an adapter. I have 160mm front, 140mm rear.
I'm guessing you would need Shimano SM-MA-R160-DD 160mm Flat Mount Rear Disc Brake Adaptor.
Hi folks,
my frame arrived some weeks ago - assembling was a little bit tricky, for example the bottom bracket-area was very very tight, so I really had to cool the bearing down, but finally it went in. The biggest problem is the front end - I don't know if this is because of the painting or the frame hasn't the right measurements: First the Headset-Cover above the steering tube was to tight, so there needed to be d-shape microspacer, which Airwolf sent me really fast.
But the same problem occurs on the other side below the steering tube - when tightening the headset you can't steer. Unfortunally I got I nice scratch on top of the fork, but that's ok. The bigger problem is a) there a no bigger bearings in this size available here in Germany (49,5mm outerside, 38,5mm inner and 6mm height) and microspacer aren't available in 1 1/2" --> because of the shape of the bearing/fork/steering tube I can't imagine how a microspacer at this point should work. So for now I am waiting 2 weeks for a solution from Airwolf - at the moment I am really disappointed and think everything is trash.
Problems in the beginning of the project: I ordered the stock pink frame - Airwolf sent two times painted pictures of a reddish one - finally they got it and the color is amazing. When everything arrived I recognized that the seatpost was matte and the stem/handlebar were glossy - nowhere is mentioned that this is the way it is send when you order a glossy frame. After all I bought a new stem in matte and a handlebar from another brand with more flare.
So, this is my 4th chinese frame and till now it's the badest - from the beginning just problems, if the huge one with the down bearing of the headset cannot be solved I think I need a new frame, it's really a shame.
Anyone has an idea of solving this? As written a microspacer would be great, but I don't think it can work at this place because of the shape of the bearing.
So, here I am again - thanks for your thoughts.
It's really hard for me to discribe my problems in english, but I think you can see what I meant.
The upper and lower bearings are the same size - I think it is 49,5mm x 38,5mm x 6mm. So I ordered the only one that I could find with such a measurement about 49,5mm x 40mm x 7mm. The height might work, but because of the bigger innerring the bearing slips deeper on the fork, so that I have not one anything with this try. 49mm bearings are more common, but would it slip in the steerer tube?
That fork looks like it needs a crown race. They should be dirt cheap and allow smooth rotation of the fork if your setup needs it. Some of my frames use this, my TFSA frame/fork has the bearing sit directly on top without it.
Hi guys,
I am really thankful for all of your help and ideas - but in the end it's simple: The fork has an integrated crown, that's one point for not believing in a microspacer to lift the bearing. On the other side there is the frame/steerer tube, so there are angles, too.
The best (?) solution would be the exact same bearing with 1 - 1,5mm more depth, but unfortunally this size is a special one, I even can't find the original one over here in Germany.
Another observation was that I can only insert the seatpost until the area of the seatstays. Will need to cut it. Was ist the same on your frames? Attached some pictures
Hi all, my frame arrived today. The paintjob looks brilliant and in general I'm pretty pleased with it.
Was a bit concerned about the headset, so I immediately assembled it. I also have a slight rub of the top cover / frame. Probably will file that cover down. I do not seem to have any issues with the bottom bearing, altough the gap is pretty small. One thing I noticed is that the area is unpainted. Maybe this is making the difference?
Another observation was that I can only insert the seatpost until the area of the seatstays. Will need to cut it. Was ist the same on your frames? Attached some pictures
I'm also looking into this frame (looking for gravel bike that's a bit towards aero/road bike, with clearance for at last 40mm tyres and a reach of ~360-370mm). Can anyone post a picture or two where it's possible to see the shape of the downtube? It's super hard to make the shape out on the all the pictures I have found.
The bearing I ordered - see link above - worked fine. Fork no longer scrapes on bottom.Ordered the same bearing, it opens the gap a little but not enough for me unfortunately.
Ordered the same bearing, it opens the gap a little but not enough for me unfortunately.
Spacer arrived today so will test tonight, hope this will solve the problem.
If someone lives in Germany and want to try out the bearing, let me know, I will send it to you.
I have now received my wheels.
2023 Ryet Gravel Carbon Wheelset with 36t rachet style hub. They weigh in at 1490g which is approx. 60g heavier than the quoted 1430+/-30g.
30mm wide hookless rim and 38mm deep.
They were well packaged and seem well finished. Came with tape installed and 2 spare spokes and 2 spare nipples.
Hey Tiny - I think the spacer would have the same angles as the built in race so that it works with the bearing - that is the theory but how to find that special spacer...
Trying to build up the fork I think it would fail over the long run...
This guy made a spacer for in the frame. Maybe we could get one designed and then 3D print in metal?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_wqccum0bcw
I think Airwolf needs to send me a new fork.
I'd rather have a designed solution
Nothing from Airwolf
Maybe this?
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Xewsqmlo-5pcs-TOOPRE-Bike-Headset-Base-Spacer-45-Degree-Headset-Washer-Ring-C-Bottom-File/3634610975?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101263151 (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Xewsqmlo-5pcs-TOOPRE-Bike-Headset-Base-Spacer-45-Degree-Headset-Washer-Ring-C-Bottom-File/3634610975?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101263151)
fanfarlo - excellent report. Would you mind posting a photo of what you mean by "paint was removed" for the lower fork area?Can bei seen in Post #66. It looks like sanded off the paint from the fork crown after painting.
Can bei seen in Post #66. It looks like sanded off the paint from the fork crown after painting.Looks like they just took a Dremel and sanded it until it no longer was a problem...
The bike is super fast - rides really well - want to see how it holds up over time.
The bikes was tested today and I think it is good to go now. We used a lot of Cervelo parts for the build.
Frame - YFR068
Cervelo stem - alloy
Cervelo bars - carbon fiber
Cervelo stem plug
Cervelo seat post
Cervelo frame bag
Cervelo computer mount
Cervelo stem spacers and a couple of the Airwolf ones
Supakaz bar tape
Group - GRX Di2 x 1 up front
XT brake rotors
Chinese carbon wheels no name
Specialized pathfinder tires
Weight - 19.5 lbs
Pardon my ignorance, but the frame doesnt come with the UCI approval right? You added the UCI sticker?I would like to know too, I liked the result.
I know I am new-ish around here and there is a lot more acceptance of replica frames here than in other places. However, I don't really understand the point of adding a UCI logo to non-approved frame unless the point was go beyond adding the Cervelo logo on the HT to convince people that this is a real Aspero 5 or convince a race judge that this is an approved frame for use somewhere.
In general, I love the idea and geometry of this frameset. It's too bad IMO that they copied the downsides of this frameset along side the good things. I would have loved to see an aggressive gravel race bike like this or an all-road bike that used a round tube steerer, 52mm bearings lower and upper and a t47BB, either an asymmetric one or a normal one.
Bro chill out. Fuck UCI, this sticker means nothing even if it is original. It tells nothing about the quality of the frame, it's not like some iso certificate or something. In order to get it frame producer, just needs to pay to this greedy organization and the frame dimensions need to be within UCI rules. They don't care about the quality, just about their rules.
Anyway, gravel scene hates UCI and wants to stay away from this corrupt body as much as they can, so that's the bigger reason for not putting this sticker on the frame. But if the owner wants to do it? It is his choice mate, because this frame checks all to boxes of the rules. The manufacturer just did not pay the bribe. It's not like he is putting fake specialized, cervelo, trek sticker.
There is BOTH a Cervelo logo and a UCI logo on the frame now.
I love gravel and I have no love for the UCI.
What is the point of adding both BOTH logos on your own?
Did not see the cervelo one. I would not put stickers like that on my own bike with all the custom options available. But I don't really care that the owner did, since it's his bike. You should also. So chill and stop being such a Karen, because you seem to be indignant af by this fact
The bikes was tested today and I think it is good to go now. We used a lot of Cervelo parts for the build.
Frame - YFR068
Cervelo stem - alloy
Cervelo bars - carbon fiber
Cervelo stem plug
Cervelo seat post
Cervelo frame bag
Cervelo computer mount
Cervelo stem spacers and a couple of the Airwolf ones
Supakaz bar tape
Group - GRX Di2 x 1 up front
XT brake rotors
Chinese carbon wheels no name
Specialized pathfinder tires
Weight - 19.5 lbs
Frame - YFR068
Cervelo stem - alloy
Cervelo bars - carbon fiber
Cervelo stem plug
Cervelo seat post
Cervelo frame bag
Cervelo computer mount
Cervelo stem spacers and a couple of the Airwolf ones
Hi guys,
do I get this correctly: the headset scrubbing/spacing issues seem to come down to tolerances due to the paint around the headset area?
I'm planning on getting the black version… and it's gonna by my very first bike build. Wondering how much material the matte/gloss would add. So do you think getting the black one might mitigate the headset issues?
Also, I read on a German forum that the bike features a D-shape steerer. Can't see that on any images, is that correct? Would that mean that it only fits the supplied stem?
They say it’s just the paint. But to be honest: this bike is ridden 300km. My TanTan Roadbike doesn‘t have a edge after 15.000km. The support tries it best to avoid it: but in my opionion this the point where warranty claim should be accepted - any Chance to get aliexpress or paypal involved?
I also vote for getting a new fork from Airwolf.
One question in between:
Did all of you receive a glossy bar/stem when ordered a glossy frame?
I had the problem that I got these items in glossy while the seatpost was matte...
I ordered a glossy frame but saw that the listing on Aliexpress only mentioned that the seatpost was matte, so I specifically asked if I could get a matte bar & stem as well.
Matte seatpost, glossy cockpit really that bad looking combo?I wouldn't think so. Just personal preference.
It‘s 49.5…
The bike is super fast - rides really well - want to see how it holds up over time.Hi, I'd be interested to hear what a your views of the bike now you've had it a few weeks and hopefully ridden it a bit more.
Has anyone had issues with the bottom headset bearing sitting too high on the fork? Looking at other builds it seems like the gap between my head tube and fork crown is too much
Received mine yesterday, initially impressed but then realised they had sent me the wrong size . I ordered 56cm and got sent a 51cm , hopefully they will sort it out . Otherwise I'm stuck with a frame that's too small for me
:-\ seriously? Did you order from Airwolf on Alix directly?
Yeah on ali , I know I selected 56cm , I'd taken weeks to check things out and research etc .
Yeah on ali , I know I selected 56cm , I'd taken weeks to check things out and research etc .
Did the frame come with the di2 cable port by the bottom bracket as standard or did you have to request it when you ordered the frame?
I'm really interested in building up one of these YFR068s (also looking at the GF-002/YFR045 or BXT Gravel 135), but from reading these threads, it sounds like there are so many issues, especially centered around the headset area. I'm wondering if I should be looking at something else instead (it would be my first full-bike build), or if most of these are sorted and it's a really small chance I'l run into the issue, or if the problems have since been solved?
Well, Velobuild is not famous for their headset, either - lots of issues in this forum reported.
I believe not matter if Airwolf or Velobuild: be prepared to sort it out yourself...
I don't get why people keep buying Velobuild frames? It seems like they have constant headset issues being reported on here. I've bought two frames from AliExpress (SPcycle and TFSA) and both have been solid. There are a lot more options out there that seem to get over looked due to people easily getting influenced to buy from the same vendors.
This might be a bit of a contradiction - Isn't SP Cycle making the Velobuild frames?
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3937.msg40840.html#msg40840
Could it be one of those situations where one seller sources frames from multiple factories such as Elves?
- it seems like the spacing is off on the rear. There is 3-4mm more clearance on the drive side than non driveside. When L45er measured the tire clearance earlier that seemed to be the case on their bike too. Ive tried a few different wheels and they all line up the same.
No, did not requested any customizations except for the paintjob. Frame comes with two ports between the BB and FD area, one port is covered with a rubber grommet plug.Where did you do the painting?
Where did you do the painting?
Asking to close a dispute is high on the Ali scamming list (see the Aliexpress reddit) and is generaly advised against...
when you close the dispute the case is closed for Ali and they will not help you again with this problem.
How much time does it take to complete the painting?
You are pretty limited because of the d-shape steering tube. You might be able to use a normal stem with a wedge. Ridley produces them, couldn’t find any on ali.such a shame, its quite a unique frame as far as chiners go. Do you have your eye on an alternative? I'm very keen on the aggressive geo
Im selling my frame now, I can get this thing to work but I am pretty pissed because all of the problems and the bad communication from the seller.
Wouldn’t risk to buy one of there are so many issues with it.
You are pretty limited because of the d-shape steering tube. You might be able to use a normal stem with a wedge. Ridley produces them, couldn’t find any on ali.
Im selling my frame now, I can get this thing to work but I am pretty pissed because all of the problems and the bad communication from the seller.
Wouldn’t risk to buy one of there are so many issues with it.
That's very unfortunate to hear, I guess you're very unlucky. Seems like not all owners run into the same issues like you did. As far on my judgement of the frame, no issues so far. Fingers crossed that I won't run into trouble and need to deal with them once after putting some milage on it. I'm building up the frame as we speak.Keep us updated :D
such a shame, its quite a unique frame as far as chiners go. Do you have your eye on an alternative? I'm very keen on the aggressive geo
That's very unfortunate to hear, I guess you're very unlucky. Seems like not all owners run into the same issues like you did. As far on my judgement of the frame, no issues so far. Fingers crossed that I won't run into trouble and need to deal with them once after putting some milage on it. I'm building up the frame as we speak.
They advertise this integrated bar being compatible with D shaped steerer. Any ideas if it would be suitable? https://a.aliexpress.com/_EJu6eT3
This one is supplied with a wedge https://a.aliexpress.com/_EQL0GvP
Looking at the cable routing the Ryet integrated handlebar might fit, the second one with the wedge (Black inc. copy) definitely not since the corner the cable needs to make is too tight and the wedge doesn't correspond with the shape of the steerer tube. The original stem provided with the Airwolf frameset the cable runs 'freely' along the steerer tube, there's a separate hole in the stem to route the cables through, which is identical to the ST31 and ST32 Cervelo stems.I've seen some people say the stem comes loose on D shape steerer but who knows without giving it a test ::)
Any traditional 31.8 stem should work on the D-shaped steerer tube without the wedge is my guessing.
Wolffcon made it work with a Zipp SL Sprint stem, what I can tell from the pictures.
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4109.msg53296.html#msg53296
https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4109.0;attach=18751;image
It might even be possible to install the Mission/Black inc. handlebar without the wedge and use the top cap provided with the frame. The only thing might not be possible is adding additional spacers, unless you trim down excess material to make it fit.Will still be a couple of months before I'm ready to buy but I will probably order that bar and see how it works. Free returns apparently so shouldn't be a loss if it doesn't work.
This is how the headset top cap looks like.
Finally I am working on my Chinerelo again. Everything is mounted and bleeded, but I can't set up the headset. The expander plug wents up everytime. How tight should the expander plug be? 7nm and montage paste didn't work so far.
Did you use the expander plug that came with the frameset? You might need to make some adjustments to make it fit like I did. I didn't use any carbon paste, also no torque wrench.
Did you shape the expander top-cap a little? It sits really tight in the stem. Unfortunally I can‘t find any other D-Shape Expander here in Germany - Cervelo and/or Factor should fit, but seems to be very expansive and not available in aftermarket…
- it seems like the spacing is off on the rear. There is 3-4mm more clearance on the drive side than non driveside. When L45er measured the tire clearance earlier that seemed to be the case on their bike too. Ive tried a few different wheels and they all line up the same.
I wouldn't bother buying an more expensive (original) one, you will probably end up with the same challenge. I did use a vice to trim down material of the top-cap. No way otherwise it would fit.
Shaping the cap was the solution. The headset is doing his work now. Thank you so much
Frameset: | Airwolf YFR068 |
Handlebars: | Airwolf HB001 42mm |
Stem: | Cervelo ST32 90mm |
Handlebar tape: | BBB Cycling BHT-14 FlexRibbon |
Computer mount: | No name |
Shifters: | SRAM Force eTap AXS HRD Shift-Brake System | ED-FRC-D1 |
Seatpost: | Cervelo SP19 |
Bottle cages: | King cage stainless steel |
Saddle: | Fizik Antares R3 Versus EVO |
Crankset: | SRAM Force D1 Power meter crankset |
Chainring: | SRAM X-Sync 42t chainring |
Bottom bracket: | SRAM DUB PressFit30 Road 79 mm BBRight |
Rear derailleur: | SRAM GX Eagle AXS 12 speed |
Cassette: | SRAM XG-1275 GX Eagle 12 speed 10-50t Cassette |
Rims: | No name UD matte carbon rims, 39/44mm height, 31mm width hookless |
Hubs: | DT-Swiss 350 straightpull centerlock hubs |
Spokes: | Sapim CX Ray, CX Sprint |
Tires: | Panaracer Gravelking SK TLC 700x38c |
Total spent: | € 2675,00 |
Total weight: | 9,04kg (incl. pedals) |
My build is pretty much finished, still waiting for some small parts to arrive and need to dial in the rear mech. Overall quite satisfied with how it came together, especially for what I spend on it. Total costs: € 2650,- incl. handbuilt wheels with DT-Swiss 350 hubs and Sapim CX spokes.
Assembling went pretty much flawless, except for the expander plug as mentioned in one of my previous posts. The frame does have one noticable flaw which are the holes for the bottle cages are not aligned properly. The bottle cage mounted on the seat tube is pointing somewhat outwards towards the non-drive-side. No way you can fix that when mounting plastic or carbon cages. I wonder if other frame owners have this same issue.
Are the logos just vinyl decals? Did you buy them or make them?
Logos on the bike are custom painted.Did airwolf do them? ;)
Did airwolf do them? ;)
Adding on to my questions:
Does anyone know if the trail mixer brake adapter is required to run the front fork in the forward position as it is on the Aspero?
Useful information if somebody wants to install a direct mount hanger. Asked Airwolf about, but they only had normal hanger. The hanger looked really similar to Specialized discs model. I bought a specialized direct mount hanger, exactly same dimensions and works perfectly.
Is this the one? https://a.aliexpress.com/_EvPJ3Q9
I have ordered a YFR068 today, will make a build thread when everything arrives.
Did my first ride on it yesterday (only an hour because I'm recovering from an accident):
-It's stable - not in annoying way, but definiteley not nervous like a Giant TCX or the Factor O2 it replaced
-It clears 45mm tires (when using a GRX Di2 front derailleur) but only just. With a 21mm internal rim these tires (Schwalbe G One RS) are quite voluminous. I'm afraid I'll have to size down or dremel down...
-It's quick enough (or I am), averaged 33 kph
-The slipping seat post as someone mentioned is also a problem for me, I thought i'd have done it up tight already but it still slipped about 1.5cm during the ride.
All in all I really like it, can't wait to go out on an actual gravel ride with it now!
Someone might have mentioned earlier - apologies if so...
But what is the max chainring that can be run on the front? Thinking to go with GX AXS wide range cassette and run a 44, maybe 46 up front.
Play came back in the headset, really noticeable when pushing the brake and wiggling the bike front to back. Anyone has an idea what could cause it? :s
I was running a mullet setup initially, 10-50 SRAM Eagle GX AXS in the back + 42t SRAM Force AXS crankset. Changed it to SRAM Force XPLR AXS 10-44 + 44t SRAM Force AXS crankset.
Interesting - what has made you switch away from the mullet setup? That's exactly the route I am thinking to go. And thanks for confirming 44T up front is max.
Okay, I need some help. I know the BB on the frame is BBright. If I order DUB compatible BBright bottom bracket, can I run a crankset like this one? Sorry if this seems ameteur, I get overwhelmed by BB/crankset options and different standards. I plan to upgrade the chainring with a 44T one.
https://www.competitivecyclist.com/sram-rival-axs-1x-12-speed-power-meter-crankset
How long did Airwolf take to ship your orders? Its been a week and they said its instock. Didn't ask for any paint."In stock" often means: "We have a bare frame in your size somewhere" I think.
"In stock" often means: "We have a bare frame in your size somewhere" I think.I asked for a bare frame as I'm painting it myself. I guess I was spoiled by elitewheels delivery in 8 days. The wait continues...
So chances are they still have to paint it before they can send it.
can anyone comment if the frame brake mounts are setup for 140 or 160mm rotors by default? I've ordered 160mm rotors and need to know if I need to get my hands on some adapters.
I'm running 160mm rotors with SRAM Force, no adapters needed.
So after a few days of arguing Airwolf have agreed on a $50 refund and a new fork.
They are asking me to pay an extra 0.1Usd to create a new order.
Any ideas whether I should do this? Reading online it seems fine as I have received the original order.
I'm running 160mm rotors with SRAM Force, no adapters needed.
How did you guys find the balance between over- and under tightening the headset. I seem to have headsetplay but when I tighten it to the point where the play is gone, my steerer isn't moving freely anymore and makes a scratching sound when turning it. I just can't seem to find the sweet spot.
Any tips would be appreciated :D
After a lot of adjustments with the headset (couldn´t get the point on which the headset had no play but worked smoothly), top bearing on my bike was broken during a ride. Maybe due to a shim that I installed, wich applied too much load on bearing.
I replaced the headset bearings with the reference for Specialized Tarmac SL7 & SL8, 49.5x40.5x6.5. Now headset is working finally smooth and without any play.
Do you know if that works for the top and the bottom?
Anyone else find specing and building bikes to be almost more fun than riding them?
TOTALLY! ;D Nice looking rig!
Somehow i'm still struggling with a bit of headset play:
- the expander sits tight and flush in the steerer tube during and after headset compression
- while mounting and screwing the top cap the resistance gets suddenly pretty high at some point of compressioning. However the handle bar moves still freely to both sides. No rubbing at the frame.
- it seems to be only the upper headset causing this little play.
My suspicicon is that the compression c ring doesn't completely compresses the bearing. Or is it possible that the diameter of the steerer tube is a bit too small for the compression c ring? I'm running out of ideas now and dont know how to solve this analytical…
Did you modified the compression C ring?
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4109.msg56128.html#msg56128
I'm looking for flared drop bars that works with the d-shaped steerer tube and stem combination that comes with the YFR068 frameset. I'm curious if anyone succeeded finding one.
i only modified the top of the compression plug/ expander because otherwise the stem would have been impossible to get mounted. i did not modify the c-ring (split ring) sitting on top of the bearing.
This Airwolf frame has some mixed things. Some parts are the same as Cervelo (seatpost clamp, stem,....) and some others are same as Specialized (derailleur hanger, headset bearings,...).
For example, I replaced original hanger with direct mount model for specialized, so I can install GRX derailleur without the connection link.
After replacing original bearings (they´re a little bit crappy) with the ones for Specialized Tarmac SL7, I also replaced compression ring (split ring) with the Tarmac SL7 model I bought in Aliexpress. Cables and hoses guiding is better, headset adjust is now much better and has zero play.
Next step will be to replace the compression plug (the one that needs to be sanded to fit stem) with the model that J&L sells, compatible with Cervelo "C" shape fork. Part is on the way and I hope that once installed it has better grip inside the fork. Original one slips upwards if you apply more than a certain torque to the headcap.
Last Saturday I put the bike to test during one of Europe's biggest gravel events, The Traka in Girona, Spain. First time for me and joined the 200km route with 2500m elevation. Bike got some serious beating and did not let me down, it's still in one piece! ;D
https://www.thetraka.com/
Nice test for the bike! I´m doing an Ultra also this summer.
A pair of questions:
- Where did you get the cover for the toptube bolts?
- Seat clamp is the original or you bought from Cervelo?
Nice! Which one did you sign up for?
I managed to get some original small parts from my LBS; bottle boss cover plate, Downtube and chain stay protectors. The Cervelo seat clamp does not fit, for that reason I sanded the the one that came with the frame and spay painted matte black ;D
I´m repeating Basajaun ultra gravel, did it also in 2022. 850 kms and +15.000m. :o
Last Saturday I put the bike to test during one of Europe's biggest gravel events, The Traka in Girona, Spain. First time for me and joined the 200km route with 2500m elevation. Bike got some serious beating and did not let me down, it's still in one piece! ;D
https://www.thetraka.com/
What size tires are you running?
Somehow i'm still struggling with a bit of headset play:
- the expander sits tight and flush in the steerer tube during and after headset compression
I found the expander needs to sit just a bit under the top of the stem. This way, when you tighten the steerer tube bolt, it can pull the cap down on the stem, while pulling up on the steerer tube. I hope this makes sense, but I think if the steerer tube is perfectly flush with the stem, then the cap has nothing to pull against as you tighten the bolt. I had play that I couldn't get rid of until I took the steerer tube down a bit more and then things tightened up nicely.This is completely clear and makes sense of course. However some users mentioned that the expander moves out of the steerer tube while compressing the system. I just wanted to note that the expander sits tight in the steerer tube in my case.
Well I'm diving into this experiment as well and ordered a 56 size frame, bbright bb, specialized 6.5 headset bearings and compression cap. Airwolf sent a message a few days after ordering asking for stem and handlebar size and I went with 90 stem and 42 handelbar. I am 6' tall. We'll see how it fits. Thanks to all who provided tips along the way. I am going to follow them in the build process.
Replace the compression cap with this part?
No, I think what they've mentioned in the previous post is a compression ring that holds the headset bearing. The compression plug you are showing does not fit in the steerer tube since it's D-shaped.
Specialized sl7 compression ring
(https://www.tradeinn.com/f/14052/140520646/specialized-tarmac-sl7-compression-ring-with-wedge.jpg)
--> Do not overtighten the expander in the fork. It pushes the top part up. (That was the issue)
I always tighten those very hard but here the expander didn't really like it. Fixed.
Quoted myself in case someone runs in this issue.
Besides that this frame rides like a dream.
Hi!
I have the same issue, headset play. May I ask you how to solve it? Iy worked with some carbon past for some time but after a bump it got loose again.
All the best!
The SL7 compression part and decent bearings fixed all the issues i had. Did a few very hard gravel races with it, its holding up fine
Thanks for that info.
On the Venge and SL7, it uses the same size bearing at the top and bottom of the head tube - is it the same with this frame?
Yes, exactly the same. Both bearings are the same for this frame also.
Thanks! That's very interesting, and obviously different to OEM Aspero which uses two different sized bearings.
This forum, and this thread, has been so useful, I'd be hitting my head against the wall if I tried to go alone with it.
Yes, exactly this is the part
Did you use both parts? I can't fit the second/smaller ring in with the brake cables, etc. I am still using the original headset bearings.
I received my frame about one month after ordering.
First impressions were pretty good. Exterior - matte black paint. Definitely some overspray on the fork where the bearing interfaces. Haven't checked clearance/final fit yet.
Two of the riv nuts for bottle / top mounts are spinning in the carbon layup - so I can't really use them unless I somehow fix them from the inside (with some resin? will be tough to do).
I used a borescope to check out the insides - looks ok but I'm no engineer. Definitely some strands flying around in there.
The headset cups and bottom bracket cups look... slightly atrocious. But I think it will work ok.
Two of the riv nuts for bottle / top mounts are spinning in the carbon layup - so I can't really use them unless I somehow fix them from the inside (with some resin? will be tough to do).
Very interesting. I'm not sure it would pass the Hambini sniff test ;D
Whilst my frame is being made, the parts required to make this more usable have arrived.
SL7 Compression ring, direct mount hanger, and headset bearings.
I'm struggling to find OEM parts for the top tube cover, down tube frame protector etc. What are they called? I can't find them on the Cervelo website.
I received my frame about one month after ordering.
First impressions were pretty good. Exterior - matte black paint. Definitely some overspray on the fork where the bearing interfaces. Haven't checked clearance/final fit yet.
Two of the riv nuts for bottle / top mounts are spinning in the carbon layup - so I can't really use them unless I somehow fix them from the inside (with some resin? will be tough to do).
I used a borescope to check out the insides - looks ok but I'm no engineer. Definitely some strands flying around in there.
The headset cups and bottom bracket cups look... slightly atrocious. But I think it will work ok.
Hi everyone. Long time lurker here. I've been wanting to build up an open mold frame for over a decade but I have talked myself out of it every time. Well this is finally the time. I plan on pulling the trigger on the frame once I pick a color-hopefully tonight. I really like the pearl pics I've seen on here but some of the metallic colors are awesome as well. I'm also piecing together a Sram Force AXS groupset-in part because I don't want to screw around with routing the shifter cables for either mech or Di2. Before I start actually purchasing parts I've got a few questions:
For those running Sram, do you use the "wide" crankset and FD? I don't think it's necessary but I'm tempted.
Has anyone purchased the airwolf carbon wheels? I'm looking at the 30mm version-not sure on depth yet. Any depth recs or other brands I should check out around the same price point?
From my understanding, I need to also purchase the Specialized SL7 compression cap and matching headset bearings. Is there anything else I must have to make the frame work? Is there anything else you recommend?
How long did shipping take for you? The website says 7-10 days but I refuse to put my hope in that.
I'm pretty psyched to get this thing built up and will hopefully post some pics of my progress.
Thanks!
I completed my build Thursday (the same day my frameset arrived).
I had all of my build components on hand and was ready. No issues at all, I purchased this frame from another vendor on Ali, but its identical to the Airwolf YFR068/Cervelo Aspero 5. Ordered mid-June, shipped on 7/15, rec'd 7/18.
A few notes, just like everyone else -
The headset bearings and compression ring are different than Cervelo, but I found the quality of my bearings to be good. I chose to go with the SL7 split ring.
The through axle thread on frame is different than Cervelo, since the thread is an insert on the frame vs an independent nut.
The Rear derailleur hanger is different.
This frame lacks bottle cage threads on the downside of downtube.
This frame lacks frame protection on the downtube, though I had OE Cervelo pieces ready and they are self-adhesive.
The remainder of the frame is a 1:1 clone with Cervelo Aspero 5, all the way down to the paint.
I used full Sram Red AXS 1x XPLR and Zipp 303 firecrest wheels, so I can't comment on the FD. I removed the FD Hanger and replaced it with the Cervelo blanking plate. The routing of the two brake hoses was remarkably easy. I thought the idea of wide BB might be an issue for me, since Red does not come aftermarket with the wide spindle. I live in flat, flat Florida, so the idea of a larger chainring was kind of appealing...but I am a spinner, not a grinder. I went with a 42T ring on the standard width spindle. There ARE some OE SRAM Red Wide offerings but they are very rare and hard to come by, I even confirmed this with SRAM Support. My setup is NOT wide, and I have zero issues. I am running a 42T 1X ring and the 3.5mm spacer on the drive side of the BB. I'd be reluctant to go larger and for me, personally, its not needed.
So far, two rides logged (30 and 25 miles) - nothing significant to report, other than the standard re-tightening of things after the first ride.
Whilst my frame is being made, the parts required to make this more usable have arrived.DownTube Protector (PRO-DT-ASP)
SL7 Compression ring, direct mount hanger, and headset bearings.
I'm struggling to find OEM parts for the top tube cover, down tube frame protector etc. What are they called? I can't find them on the Cervelo website.
DownTube Protector (PRO-DT-ASP)
I've been unable to find the cover for the top bottle bolts in stock anywhere, but all of the part numbers you will need are in this manual, mainly on page 4: https://cervelo.cdn.prismic.io/cervelo/e8e40a3a-7f87-448d-a24e-8bc430c2fda2_aspero-5_manual_v3.1_web.pdf
Thanks. I went way back in the thread and saw yours, I took a lot of inspiration from your build up!
I completed my build Thursday (the same day my frameset arrived).
I had all of my build components on hand and was ready. No issues at all, I purchased this frame from another vendor on Ali, but its identical to the Airwolf YFR068/Cervelo Aspero 5. Ordered mid-June, shipped on 7/15, rec'd 7/18.
A few notes, just like everyone else -
The headset bearings and compression ring are different than Cervelo, but I found the quality of my bearings to be good. I chose to go with the SL7 split ring.
The through axle thread on frame is different than Cervelo, since the thread is an insert on the frame vs an independent nut.
The Rear derailleur hanger is different.
This frame lacks bottle cage threads on the downside of downtube.
This frame lacks frame protection on the downtube, though I had OE Cervelo pieces ready and they are self-adhesive.
The remainder of the frame is a 1:1 clone with Cervelo Aspero 5, all the way down to the paint.
I used full Sram Red AXS 1x XPLR and Zipp 303 firecrest wheels, so I can't comment on the FD. I removed the FD Hanger and replaced it with the Cervelo blanking plate. The routing of the two brake hoses was remarkably easy. I thought the idea of wide BB might be an issue for me, since Red does not come aftermarket with the wide spindle. I live in flat, flat Florida, so the idea of a larger chainring was kind of appealing...but I am a spinner, not a grinder. I went with a 42T ring on the standard width spindle. There ARE some OE SRAM Red Wide offerings but they are very rare and hard to come by, I even confirmed this with SRAM Support. My setup is NOT wide, and I have zero issues. I am running a 42T 1X ring and the 3.5mm spacer on the drive side of the BB. I'd be reluctant to go larger and for me, personally, its not needed.
So far, two rides logged (30 and 25 miles) - nothing significant to report, other than the standard re-tightening of things after the first ride.
Hi everyone. Long time lurker here. I've been wanting to build up an open mold frame for over a decade but I have talked myself out of it every time. Well this is finally the time. I plan on pulling the trigger on the frame once I pick a color-hopefully tonight. I really like the pearl pics I've seen on here but some of the metallic colors are awesome as well. I'm also piecing together a Sram Force AXS groupset-in part because I don't want to screw around with routing the shifter cables for either mech or Di2. Before I start actually purchasing parts I've got a few questions:
For those running Sram, do you use the "wide" crankset and FD? I don't think it's necessary but I'm tempted.
Has anyone purchased the airwolf carbon wheels? I'm looking at the 30mm version-not sure on depth yet. Any depth recs or other brands I should check out around the same price point?
From my understanding, I need to also purchase the Specialized SL7 compression cap and matching headset bearings. Is there anything else I must have to make the frame work? Is there anything else you recommend?
How long did shipping take for you? The website says 7-10 days but I refuse to put my hope in that.
I'm pretty psyched to get this thing built up and will hopefully post some pics of my progress.
Thanks!
I have received my frameset a couple of weeks ago. I had no issues with the headset or the BB.
Shipping took a little bit longer than expected to receive the frame. Communication was ok. I couldn't make up my mind on the color and I really liked the one l45er got so I went for something similar.
I've rode around 1000km without any issues. It's a very fun bike to ride. It's the perfect all road bike. I'm even thinking of ordering another one in a cool chameleon color.
I noticed that there's a mark / crack near the axle. Everything feels solid and I think it's just the edge of a carbon sheet. Should I be worried? What do you guys think ?
This is completely clear and makes sense of course. However some users mentioned that the expander moves out of the steerer tube while compressing the system. I just wanted to note that the expander sits tight in the steerer tube in my case.
This happens to me as well. I'm able to put the stem on and fit the expander in the fork. But after tightening the expander and trying to compress the headset the expander comes back up out of the fork. This is making it impossible to tighten and eliminate play. I'm already using the SL7 compression ring. Any tips? Should I buy another expander (J&L perhaps) or use carbon paste. Any tips are welcome to prevent the expander from coming back up out of the fork.
Finished for now. Everything seems pretty rock solid! Went with the eGR as I wanted to keep it budget. All in, this bike has cost me AUD$1750, and it’s quite the bike for that cost!
Finished for now. Everything seems pretty rock solid! Went with the eGR as I wanted to keep it budget. All in, this bike has cost me AUD$1750, and it’s quite the bike for that cost!
I'm not sure if this helps, but what I did was tighten the expander plug whilst it's in the fork, then assemble the top plate and attach the top hex screw not too tightly. Now, the expander plug is firmly in the fork and there's no play.
It seems to keep slipping up after a few rough rides even with carbon paste. Not a concerning amont of play, but I'd like the plug to stay in place ;). What are my options? Is there a longer plug available? Is there some paste I could use. Any other tips?
Could the issue be that the edge of the expander plug is just too small to grip the fork and it just keeps slipping?
I can't imagine the stem slipping up. It's tightened to 6 Nm. It looks like the expander is coming up by about 0,5mm but it's enough to cause a bit of headset play. Hope to hear done other builders experiences with this frame and how they solved it.
That doesn’t look right at all. Mine sits completely flush with the top of the fork.
I'm trying to think of the things that could be causing this. Did you use the SL7 bearings? Or the bearings that came with the bike? Also, did you sand down the paint on the fork so that the bottom bearing is sitting properly flush? I didn't use any carbon grease for the expander plug, but I did have to sand down the edges of it to sit flush within the stem, like This Is Dog suggested.
How are the gaps when you tighten everything up? Below is a picture of mine for reference.
I've used the SL7 bearings and the SL7 compression ring. I've sanded the edged of the cap so it sits flush. I think I did al the right things. It compresses fine at first, just slips a tiny bit after a couple of harsh gravel roads.
Last Saturday I put the bike to test during one of Europe's biggest gravel events, The Traka in Girona, Spain. First time for me and joined the 200km route with 2500m elevation. Bike got some serious beating and did not let me down, it's still in one piece! ;D
https://www.thetraka.com/
I had a little play and the expander plug would go up. Now I'm using 10Nm of torque on the plug and it seems that so far, it has solved the problem.
Okay, so an update. I torqued it to 10Nm and it looked great, no problems for two rides. But the last ride a little headset play returned and upon checking the torque on the expander bolt it was loosened quite a bit. Should I use loctite or similar on the expander bolt to avoid it from loosening from the vibrations?
I've seen several mentions about tires ~45mm, I'll add some of my own experiments:
I'm a fan of 2x AXS and I managed to bypass the limitations of the non-wide front derailleur (42c max) and install a Speedero 44 in the rear (45.5mm with 24 hook inn).
The Airwolf frame itself is indeed similar to Aspero in terms of tire clearance - I got acceptable gaps of 4mm in the chainstays.
As for the front AXS derailleur - I managed to get a +2mm tire clearance extension in the battery area (3.5mm in total) by making a spacer for the front derailleur mount, and derailleur frame remained within adjustment tolerances for the combination with non-wide Red + 43-30 rings.
This is why I love this forum - ingenuity at its best. What material did you use for the 3D print?I just asked for a black and cheaper one from a guy on a local classifieds board. Probably something like ABS or PLA.
Hi! Anyone have link (aliexpress / amazon) for stem which fit to YFR068? Some i see use normal rounded stem.
Second question i have order 58 size I'm 188cm, max lower seatpost i can do is 6.5 (on seatpost measure) which give me with saddle 83cm but i need 80/81 cm saddle height. I need to cut 1/2cm of seatpost or something is wrong with frame? My seatpost only lower to seatstays and thats all
Regarding stem, it's unique to this design (it's a d-shaped steerer tube), so you're very limited in what you can use. The best bet is to use what comes with the bike and make sure you get the proper length.i have cut 2 cm, lenght of seatpost is 400mm so it's longer than standard 350 ;) now is fine, yesterday was my first ride, and boom WoW this frame is really smooth and i feel thath frame is really fast
The seat post can (and pretty much has to) be cut. My seat post (on the 54cm) was WAY too long, but I just took a hack saw to it, rounded the edges with sandpaper and got it to be long enough to fit my battery inside, but short enough so the height was perfect.
I hope that helps!
Second quesiton, do you give any spacer 2.5mm or other on drive train side for 2x crank?
(https://i.postimg.cc/FdSt8dHV/PXL-20240812-114047835.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/FdSt8dHV)How much spacers do you have and which on 2x crank?
My final build, with DIY paintjob.
Elite Edge Wheels
Magene P505 Powermeter
Shimano 105 Di2
Ryet 3D Printed Saddle
Conti GP5000S TR
Ridenow Innertubes
Headset setup:
Specialized Tarmac SL7 and SL8 Headset Bearings Black Oxide ACB495H6.5 Bearings
Specialized S212500016 Tarmac SL7 Compression Ring with Shim
Taken it out on 1 60km ride so far, some small issues but very happy. Slipping seatpost and forgot to charge Di2 battery.
Pretty bad experience with the seller sending a primer painted frame when I requested raw carbon, then took 2 months to resolve through AliExpress. Ended with a $50 refund.
The first fork they sent had a large divet in the carbon, they sent another after some argument.
Wouldn't buy from the seller again based on this.
How much spacers do you have and which on 2x crank?No spacers, OEM 105 Chainrings swapped onto the Magene spider powermeter. They run close but enough clearance and no rub. Shifts perfectly.
No spacers, OEM 105 Chainrings swapped onto the Magene spider powermeter. They run close but enough clearance and no rub. Shifts perfectly.
Hi! I have one question about hoses for disc brakes :) I have problem with them, after few regulations and change stem they are a bit broken (outside) the worst place is where stem is connecting with handelbard if I tight to much bolts i feel thaht my hoses are crushed. Do you have any ideas what to do ? I have place hoses inside this canals but still not well. Maybe some better elastic hoses or any covers for it in this place?