Chinertown
Other Resources => Component Deals & Selection => Topic started by: Avalius on November 10, 2023, 03:24:43 AM
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Hey guys,
Any reviews on these units?
Saw gplama his youtube video about it and thinking about ordering one.
He was very positive about it and the price is very good.
Update:
If your device is an a loop or won't start/read anymore. Loading it and using a magnet above the flashing red light resets it!
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Hey guys,
Any reviews on these units?
Saw gplama his youtube video about it and thinking about ordering one.
He was very positive about it and the price is very good.
Can't give it so much of a detailed review, but I got mine ~2 weeks ago and have been happy with it so far. Using it on an otherwise R7170 105 Di2 setup (including 105 R7100 chainrings) and it works excellently. Had to adjust the FD a bit as the crank sat slightly more outboard but obviously that's very easy with Di2! Setup was simple - old crank out, take chainrings off and put them on new spider, use external lockring tool to attach spider to crank, then it's just a couple hex keys to install. No harder than a Shimano crank.
Numbers are comparable to my Favero Assioma Unos which I had until recently before the bearings wore through the axles. No dropouts or spikes at all. Haven't had to charge it yet so can confirm that it lasts at least 500km without having given a low battery warning yet.
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I have had mine on the Zrace cranks for a few months, first power meter so nothing to compare but no issues. The app is a bit janky but it does the job.
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I have the P325cs from Magene, got it in the crowdfunding, it's been 3yrs and working really well, although it's the 1st PM and I don't have much to compare to, the readings are aligned with my smart trainer so it's a good sign. Only thing that could be better is the battery, but it lasts about 60hrs of usage so it's still pretty good, and easy to charge, so not so bad.
I think the best opportunities are either those P505 or the Sigeyi, which are pretty well established
keep a lookout tomorrow with the start of 11.11 because the price might drop and it adds up with coupons. If you look now the product pages show the current price and what'll be tomorrow in sale
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I have the P505 Base with the cranks from Magene. Price was $300 USD with free shipping. Installation was very simple. Straight swap from my Shimano 105 cranks, preload the non driveside and then a single pinch bolt. I'll post the weights below. So far, data has been tracking spot on with my Favero Assioma pedals except in one condition. It does not work well with oval chainrings...sort of. So my setup is a little weird. I do a round outer ring and an oval inner ring. This is why the Magene has problems. It's a well documented "issue" that spider power meters overestimate oval chainrings. Which isn't a problem in itself because you can adjust the offset of the PM. So if you're running a single ring oval, just can adjust it down to be accurate. Or if you're running 2x oval. The problem I'm having is that it's accurate for the round outer ring, but reads high when in the small oval ring. My solution is that I ordered a round inner ring. It's on the race bike and I wanted to get bigger chainrings anyways, so I'm fine with using round rings. The other option would have been to just know in my head that the readings were 10W off in the small ring, but my solution seemed simpler.
Overall, very happy with it. I wanted a cheap, accurate PM for my crit bike and this is it. Easy swap if you're running Shimano, and very accurate readings with round rings. I would buy again for sure. Magene is also making a pedal PM that looks promising but it's going to be a bit more expensive.
Weights
PM Spider: 112g
Driveside crank arm and spindle: 312g
Non driveside arm and preload bolt: 213g
Total weight (no chainrings): 638g
(https://i.imgur.com/UPk2Ihih.jpg)
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Looking at one of these myself for my gravel bike. Anything to keep in mind if setting it up 1x? Any recommendations on good Ali chainrings to pair it with?
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Looking at one of these myself for my gravel bike. Anything to keep in mind if setting it up 1x? Any recommendations on good Ali chainrings to pair it with?
I have a 36t deckas chainring on my CX rig. It's fine, it's the cheapest narrow-wide chainring I could find for 36t. No real complaints here!
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Just ordered the P505 (without crank). I'm going to put it on my gravel bike with 38t chainring and the Sigeyi Powermeter that is now on my gravel bike will go to the MTB (it's 104BCD).
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Looking at one of these myself for my gravel bike. Anything to keep in mind if setting it up 1x? Any recommendations on good Ali chainrings to pair it with?
The Q-factor of the crank is narrow (like Shimano road), so if you are prone to heel strikes it might not be the best choice. I first wanted to order it with the crank, but the Q-factor made me decide to go with only the powermeter and use my current crank.
The weird powermeter-crank interface also does mean you can't just switch to another crank.
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I've ordered 3 of these with the 11.11 action. I'll report later with additional feedback. 2 for my road bikes and 1 for my gravel bike.
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The Q-factor of the crank is narrow (like Shimano road), so if you are prone to heel strikes it might not be the best choice. I first wanted to order it with the crank, but the Q-factor made me decide to go with only the powermeter and use my current crank.
The weird powermeter-crank interface also does mean you can't just switch to another crank.
Just pulled the trigger on one. I ride flat pedals on my gravel bike, so hopefully that should help minimize the heel strike issue.
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Did anyone use this magene powermeter with senicx gr2 crankset?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EwEflTP
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I got the P505 in the SRAM 3 bolt variant on my Red crankset. I think it’s slightly overreading compared to the Assioma pedals on my other bike. I could scale it down in the app but I need to put the Assiomas on the bike to compare them directly. Other than that the thing is bomb proof.
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... but I need to put the Assiomas on the bike to compare them directly ...
Easy to do if you have two head units, https://compare-the-watts.com/ (https://compare-the-watts.com/) is your friend. Just test my old G3 hubs, a Sigeyi for my gravel bike and my Assiomas. Surprised how everything is within 1%, except one hub that is closer to 2%.
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Easy to do if you have two head units, https://compare-the-watts.com/ (https://compare-the-watts.com/) is your friend. Just test my old G3 hubs, a Sigeyi for my gravel bike and my Assiomas. Surprised how everything is within 1%, except one hub that is closer to 2%.
Well, you have the drive train losses between crank and hub... Maybe that can explain. I find 2 % still VERY good.
And yeah, without testing them both at the same time on the same bike you can say nothing about the differences between 2 measurements.
If both devices have a 2% accuracy they can have a 4% difference and still be within tolerances...
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Powermeter pedals and the Spider based powermeter both measure before drivetrain losses. Both have a claimed accuracy of 1.5%. The deviation I think I’m seeing is more though. BUT - I had the Magene on my gravel bike and the Assiomas on the road bike. First time ever that I’ve used a PM on gravel so no data to go from and it might just be that my rides off road were harder than on road. Now that I moved my Magene to the 2nd road bike, it’s actually closer to my Assiomas. But it still seems higher. Need to put the Assiomas on there and compare the readings directly but so far I just couldn’t be bothered.
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I got the P505 in the SRAM 3 bolt variant on my Red crankset. I think it’s slightly overreading compared to the Assioma pedals on my other bike. I could scale it down in the app but I need to put the Assiomas on the bike to compare them directly. Other than that the thing is bomb proof.
Oval rings by any chance? My Magene on oval rings reads higher than my Assioma. On round rings they’re within a watt. It’s easy enough to scale down once you get an offset from testing.
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Well, you have the drive train losses between crank and hub... Maybe that can explain. I find 2 % still VERY good.
Testing I did with the older of my Powertap G3 hubs, Sigeyi AXO spider and Favero Assioma pedals was 1% between all 3 power meters. It was steady state longer rides. Somehow the Powertap even with drive train losses (it is a efficient drive train) was really close to the crank and pedals readings.
My newer Powertap G3 hub compared to the Favero Assioma pedals was out by a little over 2%, but with a little digging, retesting and calibrating. It is close to 1% for steady state rides. However, sprints (or hard efforts) both Powertaps over estimate my power (say 5% for 1 minute all out).
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Oval rings by any chance? My Magene on oval rings reads higher than my Assioma. On round rings they’re within a watt. It’s easy enough to scale down once you get an offset from testing.
Nope. Regular round rings. I’ll give it a go on the turbo in the next few days and report back what the offset is. Or maybe it was just my subjective feeling.
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So I put the Assiomas on the bike. I did a ramp test and a quick workout in Zwift and recorded both the Magene P505 and the Assiomas.
The Magene consistently overreads by around 5% while the cadence is pretty much identical on both units. I did a zero calibration with both units prior to comparing them.
I adjusted the power scaling accordingly in the Magene Utility app. I'll give it another go shortly to see if I can get them to match up.
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So I put the Assiomas on the bike. I did a ramp test and a quick workout in Zwift and recorded both the Magene P505 and the Assiomas.
The Magene consistently overreads by around 5% while the cadence is pretty much identical on both units. I did a zero calibration with both units prior to comparing them.
I adjusted the power scaling accordingly in the Magene Utility app. I'll give it another go shortly to see if I can get them to match up.
Just a clarification. Is the higher reading from the Magene while you ride? Or did you do an analysis of the power data after recording? If you’re just looking at the two numbers during the ride it may be hard to get an accurate comparison based on how each unit reports the data. The best way to do it record each device to a separate head unit, or one device to Zwift and one to a head unit. Then pull each file and do a direct comparison. ZwiftPower has a free tool. DC Rainmaker has the most well known but costs money. There are some others out there.
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Just a clarification. Is the higher reading from the Magene while you ride? Or did you do an analysis of the power data after recording? If you’re just looking at the two numbers during the ride it may be hard to get an accurate comparison based on how each unit reports the data. The best way to do it record each device to a separate head unit, or one device to Zwift and one to a head unit. Then pull each file and do a direct comparison. ZwiftPower has a free tool. DC Rainmaker has the most well known but costs money. There are some others out there.
I've used this in the past: https://compare-the-watts.com/
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Just a clarification. Is the higher reading from the Magene while you ride? Or did you do an analysis of the power data after recording? If you’re just looking at the two numbers during the ride it may be hard to get an accurate comparison based on how each unit reports the data. The best way to do it record each device to a separate head unit, or one device to Zwift and one to a head unit. Then pull each file and do a direct comparison. ZwiftPower has a free tool. DC Rainmaker has the most well known but costs money. There are some others out there.
I’ve used compare-the-watts.com and recorded both powermeters. One with Zwift and one on my Wahoo.
The average wattage for the Magene is 5.14% higher than the Assiomas according to the website.
Looking at the power curve, the deviation is pretty much consistently higher by 5%, meaning that the gap increases, the higher the wattage.
Thanks for the tip with this website by the way. I did use DC Rainmaker’s tool in the past. This is just as good.
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So weirdly enough, just when I was doing my 2nd test run with the Assiomas and the Magene P505 whilst messing around with the power scaling in the Magene app, a new firmware update popped up. After installing it, the Magene PM is now recording roughly 2.5% less power (with the power scaling at the default value of 100%) compared to the Assiomas according to compare-the-watts.com
I only realized it when comparing the data sets on the website. While I was riding, I set the Magene up so it showed roughly the same values as the Assiomas and I ended up back at 100%. So I guess I'll be trying 101% next. The power scaling feature has quite an exaggerated effect. Going up and down by one percent changes the readings definitely by more than that, I found. Hopefully, I'll get them to match in the next run. Until the next firmware update rolls out, that is. :)
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3rd run - issue solved.
I did a test run of 55min of free riding on Zwift. I set the Magene P505 to 101%.
The Assiomas and the Magene were within 0.1% of each other according to compare-the-watts.com
The curves are basically indistinguishable from each other. Also the cadence reading is identical.
Very happy with that.
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That's very good news. I'm looking forward to receiving mine...
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I think once i'll match all my unit to my wahoo kickr that I'll never update the firmware again :D
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Sounds very promising. I got the PM for USD 244 on aliexpress, a no brainer (without chainrings).
Being a little weight weenie I’m curious: has anyone thought about using a lighter crankset with the magene spider? I estimate that the standard crankset in total will probably add roughly 60- 100g over my Ultegra crankset :-[
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Sounds very promising. I got the PM for USD 244 on aliexpress, a no brainer (without chainrings).
Being a little weight weenie I’m curious: has anyone thought about using a lighter crankset with the magene spider? I estimate that the standard crankset in total will probably add roughly 60- 100g over my Ultegra crankset :-[
I don't think you can use another crank since the crank-powermeter interface is unique . That's why I ordered the separate powermeter with the 3-bolt interface instead, even if it was the same price.
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I don't think you can use another crank since the crank-powermeter interface is unique . That's why I ordered the separate powermeter with the 3-bolt interface instead, even if it was the same price.
Got it! With what crankset do you paid it?
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Got it! With what crankset do you paid it?
I have ordered a Riro carbon crankset, but it is still in transit.
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I don't think you can use another crank since the crank-powermeter interface is unique . That's why I ordered the separate powermeter with the 3-bolt interface instead, even if it was the same price.
But it is not compatible with a shimano ultegra crank? Or am I on the tube??? It somehow only says something about the chainrings oO
If so which PM would be the right one for an ultegra 12 speed crank?
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But it is not compatible with a shimano ultegra crank? Or am I on the tube??? It somehow only says something about the chainrings oO
If so which PM would be the right one for an ultegra 12 speed crank?
You can't use a spider based PM on shimano road cranks. You will have to get a left crankarm (4iiii or stages or...) with powermeter. Or replace the entire crank...
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You can't use a spider based PM on shimano road cranks. You will have to get a left crankarm (4iiii or stages or...) with powermeter. Or replace the entire crank...
Thank you!
I'd just hate to swap the ultegra lettering for PES :D
I'm curious when the pedals will be released and which cleats they will be compatible with.
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Just got mine set up yeasterday, there's a little play between the chainrings and the spider, but not in the way that it actually matters. The provided spider mount tool didn't quite fit my bb tool, so i had to cover it with a cloth and grab it with pliers to get the leverage to tighten the mount.
Power numbers seen pretty much dead on with my direto xr after using just auto zero. Chainrings seem to shift well so far.
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I received the Riro crankset yesterday. I have not have had the time to put it on the bike or test it. The PM does fit as expected
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85_ErafyAb0Yfo9H3saBVo2fVIYgEwSf1KQnafbRcEAIxXNM5PgI-rwIRgX_EPDhCB1q34-QxVU2rZwIUAONktahQrPY3SM8uOJDHm91SCxDccX0deY=w1920-h1080)
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I need a non-Boost fitment for SRAM 3 bolt (0mm offset). What are my options here?
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I need a non-Boost fitment for SRAM 3 bolt (0mm offset). What are my options here?
I have a Sigeyi on my MTB. XCadey is another one.
However they continuously increased their prices these last years, and I often see good deals on Quarq ones.
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...there's a little play between the chainrings and the spider...
This never goes to the better, you should fix that ;)
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I need a non-Boost fitment for SRAM 3 bolt (0mm offset). What are my options here?
I have installed a chairing to mine on the outside and measured the chainline. It is 48- 49mm. Maybe that can help you choose?
I am going to use it in a 1x configuration.
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Did my first ride with the P505 this afternoon. No problems with the PM. I did get some new records for 20min power and power/HR, so I guess I will have to calibrate it against my Zwift Hub to dial down the PM...
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Well, I was wrong. I compared the P505 to the Zwift hub today and it was spot on. Not even a percent difference.
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Well, I was wrong. I compared the P505 to the Zwift hub today and it was spot on. Not even a percent difference.
Doesn't get much better than that! Slightly OT, but what are your thoughts on the crank so far?
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Doesn't get much better than that! Slightly OT, but what are your thoughts on the crank so far?
I have only done about 100km, but the cranks are great so far. The only problem seems to be that the axle is quite short. I could not get it to work at first because the bearings of the BB seized up when tightening the bolt. Swapping the BB68 BB to a shimano BB did the trick. It seems the Shimano BB's use 6mm wide bearings instead of the 7mm wide bearings most Ali BB's use.
Today I installed the second Riro crankset on my commuter bike with no problems. It has an older Shimano MTB BB68 bottom bracket.
Edit: I am talking about my experience with the RIRO carbon crankset and NOT the magene crankset. I bought only the PM and paired it with another crankset
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I've installed my power meter now, I used this bottom bracket: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832835484740.html
and it worked well! The only thing I haven't diagnosed yet is that I have tried to use my Ultegra 11 speed chainrings with the crank, but the spacing between the two chainrings is wide enough that the chain can fall in the middle. I need to take it apart and see if I installed something incorrectly, or maybe the flanges that the chainrings mount to are thicker on the Magene vs. Shimano crank arms?
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I've installed my power meter now, I used this bottom bracket: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832835484740.html
and it worked well! The only thing I haven't diagnosed yet is that I have tried to use my Ultegra 11 speed chainrings with the crank, but the spacing between the two chainrings is wide enough that the chain can fall in the middle. I need to take it apart and see if I installed something incorrectly, or maybe the flanges that the chainrings mount to are thicker on the Magene vs. Shimano crank arms?
Mine were the same thickness (Shimano and Magene). Do you have any calipers you could measure with? Maybe bad QC?
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I got mine with the deckas chainring to replace the Senicx GR3 crank on my gravel bike. Haven't had time with holiday craziness, but should have it installed by next week.
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Mine were the same thickness (Shimano and Magene). Do you have any calipers you could measure with? Maybe bad QC?
Thankfully it was a silly mistake on my part--I didn't realize the small chainring was directional--it has an ever so slight offset one direction. Flipping it around fixed it! Thanks
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so ordered mine today on pandapodium,
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Tested these units and well..
Spot on with my Kickr V5. Really within 1% on al my efforts ranging from 800w tot 20m 281w.
I'm impressed
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One thing I've noticed with mine, set up with a Shimano 105 R7170 Di2 front derailleur, is that the gap between crank arm and outside of the front derailleur at the outer limit is quite tight - for me, looks like less than 1mm on my 2023 Merida Scultura. There's no scratches that would indicate that the two are touching at all - but it's probably something worth noting for those with a similar setup.
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Built it up yesterday, very easy.
It seems to consistently read around 5% lower than my Tacx Neo 2t.
So for the next ride I’ll be trying to adjust the Magenes power scaling and let’s see.
The weight penalty compared to the latest Ultegra 12s was 70g on 170mm cranks and 50/34 for the ww’s.
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Did you auto zero it?
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Did you auto zero it?
Yes, via the magene app and with the cranks being vertical.
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You need to spin them back 5 revs to trigger auto zero
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You need to spin them back 5 revs to trigger auto zero
Isn't it the same outcome?
So far I did some indoor workouts and I'm now within <2% to the Tacx Neo 2t, still trying to optimize the exact powerslope.
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Built it up yesterday, very easy.
It seems to consistently read around 5% lower than my Tacx Neo 2t.
So for the next ride I’ll be trying to adjust the Magenes power scaling and let’s see.
The weight penalty compared to the latest Ultegra 12s was 70g on 170mm cranks and 50/34 for the ww’s.
Update on the accuracy: In short, I'm very happy about it.
After some test runs, average power and normalized power are on average only 0.4-0.6% (!) off from my Tacx Neo 2t wih a 104% power slope setting.
I found that the reason for the larger differences I previously experienced stem from the varying temperature in my workout room. The PM was always correctly zero'd. By having a +- constant room temperature the previous inaccuracies were greatly reduced as I found.
But that's not the full story, there's 2 more things to consider:
1. Eventhough the average power is basically identical to my indoor trainer, the actual power data is not always as close as the average would insinuate.
Actually, the Magene is often surprisingly above or below the tacx ("outliers"). The attached screenshot shows this nicely, where the blue line is the Magene and the purple line the Tacx.
2. The max power, is still off a bit, I think DCRainmaker noted the same thing. In my case it's still 6-7% in difference. Also, the 1s critical power is off by the same percentage, while all other CP value differences are negligible.
All in all a fantastic product and I'm wondering whether I can use it again for my upcoming gravel build. Maybe this time with a lighter 1by crankset as some have done here already.
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All in all a fantastic product and I'm wondering whether I can use it again for my upcoming gravel build. Maybe this time with a lighter 1by crankset as some have done here already.
That will only be possible if you have bought the separate PM and not the PM + crank combo (505 base).
As I have stated before, you can not use that PM with another crank since they use a unique interface.
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That will only be possible if you have bought the separate PM and not the PM + crank combo (505 base).
As I have stated before, you can not use that PM with another crank since they use a unique interface.
Yes that was fully understood, already got the product saved. Thanks again
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That will only be possible if you have bought the separate PM and not the PM + crank combo (505 base).
As I have stated before, you can not use that PM with another crank since they use a unique interface.
Coming back on your builds @TinyDinosaur, does it also work with a 2by crankset, i.e. 2 chainrings?
I suppose they would need to be 3 bolt as well?
My idea was building a 46/30 crankset with the riro cranks.
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Coming back on your builds @TinyDinosaur, does it also work with a 2by crankset, i.e. 2 chainrings?
I suppose they would need to be 3 bolt as well?
My idea was building a 46/30 crankset with the riro cranks.
Yeah, I wouldn't know why that would not work. And indeed 3-bolt chainrings. You could look at the senicx branded ones.
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Yeah, I wouldn't know why that would not work. And indeed 3-bolt chainrings. You could look at the senicx branded ones.
That's very helpful. Is it correct to assume, that in a 3bolt 2by setup with the PM, the chainrings would need to be "one piece"? (as opposed to my experience with original Shimano 2by chainrings).
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That's very helpful. Is it correct to assume, that in a 3bolt 2by setup with the PM, the chainrings would need to be "one piece"? (as opposed to my experience with original Shimano 2by chainrings).
Yes, or you could use a spider adapter, but I guess 1 piece will be more conventient
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Thanks TidyDinosaur. How did you mount the chainring on your Riro crankset and the Magene P505 S1103? Are the 3 bolts of the crankset long enough to go through the holes of both the PM and the chainrings?
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Thanks TidyDinosaur. How did you mount the chainring on your Riro crankset and the Magene P505 S1103? Are the 3 bolts of the crankset long enough to go through the holes of both the PM and the chainrings?
No, it does not work like that. Either you install the 1-piece 3-bolt double chainring (so no PM with that option) OR you install the 3-bolt powermeter and than install normal chainrings to the powermeter.
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No, it does not work like that. Either you install the 1-piece 3-bolt double chainring (so no PM with that option) OR you install the 3-bolt powermeter and than install normal chainrings to the powermeter.
Got it! Would you know whether the small 30-46 chainrings can be really attached to the Magene Powermeter S1103? Seems like due to the small size of the 30t chainring it's not always guaranteed to fit because of the BCD?
Chainrings for reference: https://www.bike-discount.de/en/shimano-grx-fc-rx610-2x12-speed-chainring
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Got it! Would you know whether the small 30-46 chainrings can be really attached to the Magene Powermeter S1103? Seems like due to the small size of the 30t chainring it's not always guaranteed to fit because of the BCD?
Chainrings for reference: https://www.bike-discount.de/en/shimano-grx-fc-rx610-2x12-speed-chainring
No, that won't fit. You need 2 chainrings with bcd 110. I don't know if they exist in a cheap version.
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Got it! Would you know whether the small 30-46 chainrings can be really attached to the Magene Powermeter S1103? Seems like due to the small size of the 30t chainring it's not always guaranteed to fit because of the BCD?
Chainrings for reference: https://www.bike-discount.de/en/shimano-grx-fc-rx610-2x12-speed-chainring
There are 46-32 chainrings from Stone that should fit.
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005005163392599.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
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Thanks for all the answers! I was considering the 32-46 as well. In the end, I had the chance to grab some discounted premarket Favero spd PM Pedals for my gravel build and went down that route for a bit more versatility and flexibility. Nonetheless, I think the magene pm here works perfectly for me on my road bike and is of amazing value.
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hi! A nice opportunity appeared for buying the P505 S1078 locally - the 8-bolt 107bcd one
the chainrings I found plenty options on Aliexpress, but I cannot find 8-bolt cranks
you guys have any suggestion or budget options for the cranks?
I'm not looking to upgrade my powermeter (currently I have a Magene P325cs set), but this P505 S1078 is cheap so I'm considering
but if I'll have to buy a sram crank for the 8-bolt, then it ends up being too expensive and not worth it
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only sram make 8-bolt cranks
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Hey guys how do you check pm with your indoor trainer, U use Erg for that? When I put my bike on my wahoo kicker in ERG training mode the magene pm shows around 10-15 watts less then kickr - so I need to put power slope in magene app at 105%. When I use it in normal mode then difference is not that big and power slope is around 102%. This is my first power meter and it is strange to me as all the reviews online say that pes p505 pm crankset is spot on. Any ideas what should I do? I did 5 spin backwards before measuring ofcourse.
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Absolutely not erg mode, just a set, constant resistance
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Absolutely not erg mode, just a set, constant resistance
Thank you my friend
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Absolutely not erg mode, just a set, constant resistance
Why not ERG? I use trainerday programs, so those are blocks of fixed resistance for several minutes. Why would I not be able to use that?
I checked my 4iiii left arm PM against my Zwift hub last week and it also was a little lower compared to the Hub. I set it to 103%.
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Hey guys how do you check pm with your indoor trainer, U use Erg for that? When I put my bike on my wahoo kicker in ERG training mode the magene pm shows around 10-15 watts less then kickr - so I need to put power slope in magene app at 105%. When I use it in normal mode then difference is not that big and power slope is around 102%. This is my first power meter and it is strange to me as all the reviews online say that pes p505 pm crankset is spot on. Any ideas what should I do? I did 5 spin backwards before measuring ofcourse.
Spot on compared to what?
You will always get somewhat different readings with different powermeters. You should decide what your baseline powermeter should be and then adjust your other device's power slopes accordingly. That's what I did. My Magene P505 reads less than my Favero Assiomas. I trust the Assiomas more so I adjustet my Magene to match them. My Elite Suito trainer is way off anyway. Since both my road bikes have power meters I don't even bother with the power readings that my trainer delivers.
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fwiw, i never found a material difference between my vector 2s and my elite direto, nor with my elite suito. i didn't want to spend more to get a dual side vector because unless you have a medical history of some kind, coaches report that people are symmetric enough.
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Magene are now saying that the P505 won't work with a T47 (or BB386 evo) bottom bracket.
Does anybody know why? Has anyone tried it? I'm hoping to use one with a T47 BB on a gravel bike (1X).
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Magene are now saying that the P505 won't work with a T47 (or BB386 evo) bottom bracket.
Does anybody know why? Has anyone tried it? I'm hoping to use one with a T47 BB on a gravel bike (1X).
I think that it would be because the spider itself comes back slightly over the BB shell. I think I have read that the XCadey has the same issue as well. This image shows you what I mean:
(https://www.fesports.com.au/stock/23242_XNz00s_original.jpg)
I expect (though I can't confirm) that it would only cause issues with T47 internal. With T47 external there should be enough space for the spider to come back over the BB cup (whereas on internal that space isn't there). There's some reported issues on Reddit with the Trek Domane and the Trek Emonda of it rubbing against the frame because of that lack of space (note those are both T47 internal).
This is probably only an issue on some BB386 and T47 frames, but out of caution I assume they've said that it's generally not compatible.
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Thank you.
Would this simply be solvable with spacers?
My frame is internal T47 and the the PM is on its way, so I'm a little concerned.
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I think that it would be because the spider itself comes back slightly over the BB shell.
This is probably only an issue on some BB386 and T47 frames, but out of caution I assume they've said that it's generally not compatible.
Yes, I have no issues on my frame with T47 internal BB, but clearance is minimal, so I expect some frames would be problematic: https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4952.msg60729.html#msg60729
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I'm running it on a Tideace Noah. It looks like it is relatively bulbous in that area, so I will hold out hope!
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I got a T47i BB from Token combined with a SRAM S900 crank and Magene P505. Never even thought about compatibility issues. It’s tight but it’s perfectly alright.
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Magene are now saying that the P505 won't work with a T47 (or BB386 evo) bottom bracket.
Does anybody know why? Has anyone tried it? I'm hoping to use one with a T47 BB on a gravel bike (1X).
I do use it with a T47BB on my Emonda Clone frame without problems.
The groupset is a Shimano 105Di2 with 2x 50-34 chainrings.
It may also depend on the frame design if it interferes with the PM.
I did have problems with the Sigeyi power meter that was blocking against the T47BB and frame.
So I can not recommend this combination.
BR Chris
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I‘m running one on a Look 765 with T47i and this needed a tiny spacer drive side. No problem since…
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Magene are now saying that the P505 won't work with a T47 (or BB386 evo) bottom bracket.
Does anybody know why? Has anyone tried it? I'm hoping to use one with a T47 BB on a gravel bike (1X).
I've got one on my Trek Domane with a Praxis internal T47 BB. There was some frame contact so I put a very thin spacer in and it's been fine. What don't like so much is that the bearing is more exposed than I'd like.
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Bike nr 3 on this pm now. Best budget powermeter out there :)
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Thanks for the add - short time lurker, first time poster.
Made my first Chinese purchase about a month ago, a P505. I had a new to me Aspero that won't get a lot of use, the Stages that came with it was physically broken, and I rec'd a $300 allowance to replace it. I figured this would be a good venture into the budget cycling zone, and am excited to learn more from this board.
I did have two questions:
I figured a second charger to keep in my gear bag would be a good thing to have, I try to keep spares of everything I need often just in case. Given that it is proprietary, I figured proactively obtaining one would be a good idea. I emailed Magene, a month later they replied back telling me that it is $7, $20 to ship, and I also need to pay customs. Is there not an easier way to get one?
It doesn't appear to sync well on BT - only Ant +. On BT I get a lot of drop outs, however I haven't had any issues on Ant +. When I asked Magene about it they recommended resetting it, which I haven't done yet because the instructions they provided required two chargers to do so. Any experience or feedback on this issue?
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Semi hijacking but does this PM need the onelapfit app like magene head units? Did anyone encounter issues making an account/logging in? So far the experience is pretty trash
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I figured a second charger to keep in my gear bag would be a good thing to have, I try to keep spares of everything I need often just in case. Given that it is proprietary, I figured proactively obtaining one would be a good idea. I emailed Magene, a month later they replied back telling me that it is $7, $20 to ship, and I also need to pay customs. Is there not an easier way to get one?
Just look on Ali for another cable. It's the same as a lot of other PM's use. The Sigeyi Axo cable is the same for instance. Should be about 5-7 USD total
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Super helpful, not sure why that didn't show up on my first google search. This guy here?
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806648577113.html?src=google&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=708-803-3821&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&gclsrc=aw.ds&albagn=888888&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=708-803-3821&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&gclsrc=aw.ds&albagn=888888&ds_e_adid=&ds_e_matchtype=&ds_e_device=c&ds_e_network=x&ds_e_product_group_id=&ds_e_product_id=en3256806648577113&ds_e_product_merchant_id=5344703592&ds_e_product_country=US&ds_e_product_language=en&ds_e_product_channel=online&ds_e_product_store_id=&ds_url_v=2&albcp=20268592310&albag=&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhb60BhClARIsABGGtw-_N18vAPoPpBSGij10JeG4mH6Tv-aDQp9X8x9csTitHxVjheFbYPcaAq2IEALw_wcB&aff_fcid=9af3f0e5dedc49c38de66bd25593bd3e-1720701748997-03815-UneMJZVf&aff_fsk=UneMJZVf&aff_platform=aaf&sk=UneMJZVf&aff_trace_key=9af3f0e5dedc49c38de66bd25593bd3e-1720701748997-03815-UneMJZVf&terminal_id=b9140eed098c49f2b2c02badc452c732&afSmartRedirect=n&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
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Super helpful, not sure why that didn't show up on my first google search. This guy here?
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806648577113.html?src=google&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=708-803-3821&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&gclsrc=aw.ds&albagn=888888&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=708-803-3821&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&gclsrc=aw.ds&albagn=888888&ds_e_adid=&ds_e_matchtype=&ds_e_device=c&ds_e_network=x&ds_e_product_group_id=&ds_e_product_id=en3256806648577113&ds_e_product_merchant_id=5344703592&ds_e_product_country=US&ds_e_product_language=en&ds_e_product_channel=online&ds_e_product_store_id=&ds_url_v=2&albcp=20268592310&albag=&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhb60BhClARIsABGGtw-_N18vAPoPpBSGij10JeG4mH6Tv-aDQp9X8x9csTitHxVjheFbYPcaAq2IEALw_wcB&aff_fcid=9af3f0e5dedc49c38de66bd25593bd3e-1720701748997-03815-UneMJZVf&aff_fsk=UneMJZVf&aff_platform=aaf&sk=UneMJZVf&aff_trace_key=9af3f0e5dedc49c38de66bd25593bd3e-1720701748997-03815-UneMJZVf&terminal_id=b9140eed098c49f2b2c02badc452c732&afSmartRedirect=n&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
That will work
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If anyone in Europe is looking for an 8 bolt spider (P505 - S1108) send me a dm.
Ordered the wrong one, needed the 3 bolt spider. Ali price + discounts ;)
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Heads up with customer service experience with Magene. The larger crank bolt mechanism worked itself loose recently on my pes505 (which from what I gather is not all that uncommon). I contacted Magene and they said they would replace it but I'm being charged $30 USD for shipping for that small part. I find it hard to believe that it costs that much to ship something so small, given most stuff that size ships free from China to Canada.
I wish they were just honest and said they have to charge me for the part, even then $30usd for a bolt is crazy expensive for that part. Unfortunately the thread size is different so Shimano or Senicx don't work.
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Heads up with customer service experience with Magene. The larger crank bolt mechanism worked itself loose recently on my pes505 (which from what I gather is not all that uncommon). I contacted Magene and they said they would replace it but I'm being charged $30 USD for shipping for that small part. I find it hard to believe that it costs that much to ship something so small, given most stuff that size ships free from China to Canada.
I wish they were just honest and said they have to charge me for the part, even then $30usd for a bolt is crazy expensive for that part. Unfortunately the thread size is different so Shimano or Senicx don't work.
Are you referring to the bolt that is used to tighten the left crank arm to the spindle before the screw is used to "fix" the crank arm? If so, two remarks:
First: I had the issue that, even I used the specified torque settings, the crank arm worked loose and I lost the bolt. Not satisfying...seems this is not uncommon?
Second: If I am not mistaken, I replaced the bolt with one I had at home - so I was under the impression that Magene uses the same bolt and thread that Shimano uses?
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Are you referring to the bolt that is used to tighten the left crank arm to the spindle before the screw is used to "fix" the crank arm? If so, two remarks:
First: I had the issue that, even I used the specified torque settings, the crank arm worked loose and I lost the bolt. Not satisfying...seems this is not uncommon?
Second: If I am not mistaken, I replaced the bolt with one I had at home - so I was under the impression that Magene uses the same bolt and thread that Shimano uses?
No, they‘ve got differently ramped threads IMO. I was wondering if the the o-ring that you‘re supposed to place in that groove is there to stop the bolt from moving? I wouldn‘t know what other purpose this might have?
Anyway, this one-bolt-solution has made me check for torque regularly. Not a „install and forget“ solution really…
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Hey guys,
Anyone else having shifting issues by combining the Magene P505 with a Shimano 12 speed groupset? Did you guys compensate for the 1mm extra chainline of the shimano 12 speed cranks? Magene P505 seems to be build around the previous 43.5mm chainline.
My rear shifting seems to be only working fine when the micro adjustment is completely maxed out (+16). Front shifting is not optimal as well (Ultegra chainrings).
Can this be due to the chainline or should I search for the solution somewhere else?
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You should look somewhere else. Ultegra Di2-12 here, works fine. I only had to adjust the front derailleur one notch.
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Hey guys,
Anyone else having shifting issues by combining the Magene P505 with a Shimano 12 speed groupset? Did you guys compensate for the 1mm extra chainline of the shimano 12 speed cranks? Magene P505 seems to be build around the previous 43.5mm chainline.
My rear shifting seems to be only working fine when the micro adjustment is completely maxed out (+16). Front shifting is not optimal as well (Ultegra chainrings).
Can this be due to the chainline or should I search for the solution somewhere else?
Using my P505 on a Shimano 105 Di2 with original chain rings and no issues at all.
Maybe check the derailleur hanger, may be bent and messing up your shifts.
BR Chris
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Hey guys,
Anyone else having shifting issues by combining the Magene P505 with a Shimano 12 speed groupset? Did you guys compensate for the 1mm extra chainline of the shimano 12 speed cranks? Magene P505 seems to be build around the previous 43.5mm chainline.
My rear shifting seems to be only working fine when the micro adjustment is completely maxed out (+16). Front shifting is not optimal as well (Ultegra chainrings).
Can this be due to the chainline or should I search for the solution somewhere else?
What type of bottom bracket? There are known issues with T47 (see above).
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After reading the posts here, decided to order p505 165mm for my TT912 that uses bb386evo.
(my olde 170mm xcadey left-crank rip, decided to try 165)
Assessment wise on the area around the BB driver side, it has decent taper from center bb-shell to the bb cups lip, that may clear the magene spider-body.
will report back
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edit:
it just arrived today 28aug.
It clears my TT912 bb386evo by few mm gap
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So on my morning ride the left crank arm came off. It started feeling a little wobbly and I was hoping to make it to a lit area up the road to stop and check it out. Didn’t make it. Came off and lost the bolt as it was still dark out.
I tightened the crank arm bolt and was able to make it home.
I have a gravel event this weekend I’d still like to do. Am I risking damaging the power meter if I ride it without the big bolt that goes into the spindle?
Edit: changed to non obnoxious pic size.
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i wouldnt reccomend it but you might be able to get away with it
seems like a consistent problem, this. Should probably be installing with threadlocker on both bolts
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i wouldnt reccomend it but you might be able to get away with it
seems like a consistent problem, this. Should probably be installing with threadlocker on both bolts
I'm not exactly a watt monster and I don't plan on doing any sprints. At this point I think I'm just going to tighten the crank arm bolt down tight and hope for the best. I'll work on getting a replacement and stay off the bike for a while after the weekend.
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I had my left arm come loose 2 times (did not fall off). Applied some locktite and its all good now.
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I t looks like mine died today after a little less than 2 years.
I'm in contact with customer support as it still in warranty period....
We will see how mMagene react ....
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Same issue here, the big bolt always gets loose over time, left crank arm then travels outwards.
Luckily i always recognized it in time before anything separated ;)
Tried to fix it several times, checked torque, cleaned everything, used thread locker, without any success.
Thought this might happen to me since i use it out of spec, - on a gravel bike with GRX setup. In Order to get the front derallieur working, maintain a functional chainline and keep everything symmetrical, i used 2mm spacers on each side of the BB, resulting in 4mm less "clamping surface" for the left crank arm.
After reading several reports here, it seems thats not what causes the issues.
Hope i can find some time to dig a bit deeper into this issue soon an will report here in case of any interesting findings...
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So on my morning ride the left crank arm came off. It started feeling a little wobbly and I was hoping to make it to a lit area up the road to stop and check it out. Didn’t make it. Came off and lost the bolt as it was still dark out.
I tightened the crank arm bolt and was able to make it home.
I have a gravel event this weekend I’d still like to do. Am I risking damaging the power meter if I ride it without the big bolt that goes into the spindle?
Edit: changed to non obnoxious pic size.
Do you have access to get Shimano's hollowtech2 big bolt?
I remember testing my R7000 bolt, and seemed to fit (onto the p505 base spindle) and the lip go ever the crankarm a bit.
Granted shimano's is plastic, better than nothing
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Reading all your "horror stories" of loosing that bolt, I just checked mine as I have a event coming up. All screws (clamp, "big" bolt, "small" inside bolt) were absolutely fine and still at the correct torque. If I remember correctly my 2-piece-bolt came with some thread-locker pre-applied. Maybe that's a newer generation and they improved on the issue?
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Mine is pretty new and my left crank came off completely at British gravel champs. It was torqued to the exact Magene specs. I've reached out to Panda Podium for a replacement preload bolt.
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Do you have access to get Shimano's hollowtech2 big bolt?
I remember testing my R7000 bolt, and seemed to fit (onto the p505 base spindle) and the lip go ever the crankarm a bit.
Granted shimano's is plastic, better than nothing
Didn’t know that fit! I’ll give it a shot with some local shops.
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Local shop fitted a shimano preload bolt no problem.
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I lost mine two weeks ago midsprint… Luckily on the bottom of the stroke so i didn't crash. Wrote Magene and they offered me replacement in case i take the transport fees. Ordered two just in case. But only one arrived because of "due to a warehouse shipment error". I now secure it ontop off loctite and correct torque with a peace of duct tape.
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Mine is pretty new and my left crank came off completely at British gravel champs. It was torqued to the exact Magene specs. I've reached out to Panda Podium for a replacement preload bolt.
Same here. I brought the whole system including cranks and chainrings. No matter if I used different spacers or even mounted it on different bikes the left crank arm gets always lose after a few kilometers. One day it even fall completely off. I was just happy not crashing. After contacting the seller. I think it’s a mangene dealer on AliExpress (not Magene itself) they offered me a reparation on my own costs or a new screw only of I buy other stuff in their store. By the way the power data was always very fluctuating. Does anyone has the issue with sellers? Should I contact Magene directly?
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Local shop fitted a shimano preload bolt no problem.
Upon further review and discussion with local shop...the hollowtech bolt doesn't truly serve the same purpose as the Magene bolt. The shimano bolt is not really designed to take as much pressure as the magene metal bolt. It will either deform or lead to flex and eventual failure it seems. I had already contacted Magene, but haven't heard back.
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By the way the power data was always very fluctuating.
That's just how power meters or rather your body works: it near impossible to output the same wattage for any given period. Instantaneous power will always fluctuate quite a lot even if you are pedaling at a steady state and *think* you are applying even pressure. That's why we use 3s power for a quick glance or Lap AVG for the training target.
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That's just how power meters or rather your body works: it near impossible to output the same wattage for any given period. Instantaneous power will always fluctuate quite a lot even if you are pedaling at a steady state and *think* you are applying even pressure. That's why we use 3s power for a quick glance or Lap AVG for the training target.
Magene is quite fluctuating. I have to use 5s avg and 3s avg reading are too much over the place. I think that readings fluctuate little less on small chainring as far as I remember.
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I think that readings fluctuate little less on small chainring as far as I remember.
That's also normal. It has to do with (fly-)wheel speed. If the speed is higher (e.g. large chain ring), you have less time during the pedal stroke to apply the given power. It's more like every rotation you "top up" the wheel's speed with a short tap on the pedals. When the (fly-)wheel's speed is lower (e.g. small chain ring), you apply power more evenly throughout the pedal stroke. Therefore, it is easier to apply the same power with every pedal stroke as you already have a bit of power smoothing "built-in". BTW: That is also the reason why for some people 300W on a climb feels harder/easier than 300W on the flats. Has to do with your muscle fiber and which type is dominant in your composition.
Regarding whether the power of the Magene PM fluctuates more than other PMs: I compared it to my Assioma Duo. Over a 120min ride the AVG differed by 1% with the high and lows being very close as well. Basically the same; just as what GPlama found when he tested them about a year ago: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62ucR_s_HQs
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Ive the Magene P505 PM with 165mm Cranks, but on the sensor details on my Garmin Fenix it states 172.5mm cranks, is there a way to correct this?
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If you cannot set this in your watch's sensor settings (like you can with most bike computers), go to the Magene Utility App and set the correct crank arm length there.
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I t looks like mine died today after a little less than 2 years.
I'm in contact with customer support as it still in warranty period....
We will see how mMagene react ....
Keep us updated on this.
Also, just heard back from Magene support on the replacement bolt. Looks like it'll cost me around the same as said earlier in the thread. $30 or so.
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If you cannot set this in your watch's sensor settings (like you can with most bike computers), go to the Magene Utility App and set the correct crank arm length there.
A don't see the option of setting the crank lenght in Magene Utility App. Didn't even know that setting in was a thing. What's the purpose?
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You are right, confused it with my Assiomas. No such thing on the magene. My Garmin doesn't even show crank length in the sensor details for it.
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A don't see the option of setting the crank lenght in Magene Utility App. Didn't even know that setting in was a thing. What's the purpose?
Ive the 165mm cranks, but when i view the power meter in my Garmin fenix details it says 172.5mm crank length, so i guess to correct it.
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Has anyone noticed anything regarding the L/R balance. It may be just me, but I'm consistently 56-58% left leg. Installed April this year. Have tried to put more power in the right leg, but still no less then 53% left.
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I wouldn't fully trust balance rradings on it. It's a single point of measurement and the estimation tries to guess which leg is working, but it doesn't actually know. Only way to get a real reading of balance is a two sided power meter. Like pedal or crank pms.
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Yeah, I’ve wondered about this too - as much as it is guessing which side is producing the power, it’s probably a safe assumption that you aren’t creating much power between six and twelve o’clock on either side (i.e. when your foot is moving backwards and up). If you’re pulling up it’ll confuse the sensor but aside from that…
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When standing, I get 50/50. I'm trying to figure out what the unbalance is coming from. A friend says one of his legs is a little shorter than the other, so he is also unbalanced. Not as badly as me, but I always thought my legs were the same. Next bike, I may have to get the favero assioma dual, which isn't cheap, but the cheapest around except for the magene and similar crank based powermeters.
Numbers wise, the magene is in the same ballpark as my stages single side, which shimano kept when they replaced my crankset under warranty. My only complaint is with the magene chainrings. I bent the inner ring when I tried to shift down going up a hill, fortunately, only 5 miles into the ride.
Was able to ride back to the car in the big ring.
I've been charging once a month, not that I've had them die on me. I'm heading to 3500 miles for the year.
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I actually like the balance stats. It helped me adjust the saddle position. For me lowering the saddle made my balance 50/50. When I try new things like shoes, cleat position, saddle I can clearly see changes in L/R and use it to make adjustments
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This meter always has higher numbers on my garmin than on TP and Strava. There it's always correct. Am I missing something? lol
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I wouldn't fully trust balance rradings on it. It's a single point of measurement and the estimation tries to guess which leg is working, but it doesn't actually know. Only way to get a real reading of balance is a two sided power meter. Like pedal or crank pms.
Why wouldn't you? The PM always "knows" which crank arm is up or down. So as long as you're not pulling on the pedals - which you really shouldn't do since it's inefficient - it always knows which side is applying how much power.
For me the readings are accurate. Usually 50/50 with an occasional up to +/-2 spread which seems normal.
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Why wouldn't you? The PM always "knows" which crank arm is up or down. So as long as you're not pulling on the pedals - which you really shouldn't do since it's inefficient - it always knows which side is applying how much power.
For me the readings are accurate. Usually 50/50 with an occasional up to +/-2 spread which seems normal.
No it's actually a lot more complicated than that and it's also a reason why other single sided PM brands/models don't offer L/R balance. The PM only knows if one side is putting power or not, that's it. To conclude that the other side is always putting exactly the same power skews the L/R stats. If you buy the assioma UNO (which is pretty much the golden standard for PM accuracy) you'll notice they don't provide L/R balance for that reason, because it's not possible to get accurate data. That's also why in the assioma app you can specify a L/R power balance if you know you're always outputting 45/55 for instance. This way the uno won't simply *double* your power but will use this ratio.
Think about it this way, with your logic you could be doing one-legged workout (where you only have one leg clipped in) and the single side power meter would think you're applying power on the other side when you don't even have a foot clipped on the other side. Single side powermeter will never be accurate for L/R balance because it can only tell if one side is putting power or not.
I've had assioma duos. During high intensity workouts/sprints it's very common to get an imbalance on the power because people tend to have a stronger leg/side.
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Why wouldn't you? The PM always "knows" which crank arm is up or down. So as long as you're not pulling on the pedals - which you really shouldn't do since it's inefficient - it always knows which side is applying how much power.
For me the readings are accurate. Usually 50/50 with an occasional up to +/-2 spread which seems normal.
Well not only are your power phases not perfect semi circles, different people and different positions means everybody varies in the distribuiton of power output across the pedal stroke. It's simply not possible to make an algorithm that would account for every variable
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Today I swapped my Ultegra crankset with a carbon RiRo crankset with a P505 PM. I re-used the Ultegra chainrings.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPDyeFSvdqcUe7o3ufRzsKEdyJFmFLe6YY_gmMpMnWY6sfFXxs7mTA_c9NJM5IYR361eBhm5FCs9QCDAhOe17ozyNal8mgsBKtUMK1iZMfjflUOKuhn=w1920-h1080)
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Today I swapped my Ultegra crankset with a carbon RiRo crankset with a P505 PM. I re-used the Ultegra chainrings.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPDyeFSvdqcUe7o3ufRzsKEdyJFmFLe6YY_gmMpMnWY6sfFXxs7mTA_c9NJM5IYR361eBhm5FCs9QCDAhOe17ozyNal8mgsBKtUMK1iZMfjflUOKuhn=w1920-h1080)
Did you need any spacer to get an accurate alignment with the PM spider? I'm probably going to do the same as you with the Riro/Racework crankset.
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No it's actually a lot more complicated than that and it's also a reason why other single sided PM brands/models don't offer L/R balance. The PM only knows if one side is putting power or not, that's it. To conclude that the other side is always putting exactly the same power skews the L/R stats. If you buy the assioma UNO (which is pretty much the golden standard for PM accuracy) you'll notice they don't provide L/R balance for that reason, because it's not possible to get accurate data. That's also why in the assioma app you can specify a L/R power balance if you know you're always outputting 45/55 for instance. This way the uno won't simply *double* your power but will use this ratio.
Think about it this way, with your logic you could be doing one-legged workout (where you only have one leg clipped in) and the single side power meter would think you're applying power on the other side when you don't even have a foot clipped on the other side. Single side powermeter will never be accurate for L/R balance because it can only tell if one side is putting power or not.
I've had assioma duos. During high intensity workouts/sprints it's very common to get an imbalance on the power because people tend to have a stronger leg/side.
Well, that is not quite correct. You are talking about a one-sided pedal based power meter - there you are correct; they double the one-sided reading to get total power. Which of course is a "guesstimate" since that only works if you apply power completely even. And since it truly is a one-sided measurement, it cannot provide any L/R-balance.
But a spider based power meter does not do that. It sits, as the name suggests, at the spider or the axle if you prefer that. Therefore, it does not only get the applied power from one side (as in on a crank or pedal reading) but from both sides as it sits in between. And since it also knows which side of the crank is currently in the down/up-stroke movement, it can attribute that power to the respective side. It is not 100% exact as in a dual-sided crank/pedal reading, since you could influence the reading for example by pulling on the pedals. However, the amount of power you can apply by pulling compared to pushing on the pedals is so small, it really does not matter much. Furthermore, as I mentioned before, pulling on the pedals should be avoided anyway since it is energy inefficient.
To pick up your example with that one-legged workout: doing that on a spider based PM, like the Magene here, will actually give you correct data. And will also show quite a hefty L/R imbalance depending on which foot you keep "inactive".
What a spider based PM cannot measure (and therefore will also not show up in their data), are the other cycling dynamics stats like Seated/Standing Position, Power Phase (PP), and Platform Center Offset (PCO) as they are truly pedal dependent measurement. Hope that makes sense and clears up a few misunderstandings?
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Did you need any spacer to get an accurate alignment with the PM spider? I'm probably going to do the same as you with the Riro/Racework crankset.
Nope, just put everything together as it came and it looks like it fits. I have not tested it on the road though...
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Hi. Anyone have som example of good 1x crank and chainring combo with p505?
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Hi. Anyone have som example of good 1x crank and chainring combo with p505?
Riro carbon crank (3 bolt version) will work.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPI3vo1u0xq0qerowOJBmFZe-apESIhiZZoayA3ajbt4lHpWpUT9SjylV2bZWuopiQCdpcNETiKwr4bR2QAQ4bV9kwkGyUYQohSrORvrTEE8o3VWuPs=w1920-h1080)
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Hi. Anyone have som example of good 1x crank and chainring combo with p505?
SRAM force + pass quest chainring + magene pm
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Hi. Anyone have som example of good 1x crank and chainring combo with p505?
P505 - multiple, depends on which variant you have (older SRAM 3-bolt, newer SRAM 8-bolt, Rotor.
P505 Base - none that I'm aware of
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I use the Magene crank and an alugear n/w chainring. No problems.
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Price went down to 264€, today it's at 275€, while usually sitting around 300€... Bit surprising prior to 11.11., I'm hoping for a good deal
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I'm considering getting the full set with 52x36 chainrings, but I'm very concerned about the issues of left crank loosening. Is this still an issue and how widespread is it?
It sounds like some people have better luck when: 1) using threadlock on the pinch bolt. 2) Torquing all [pinch and preload] bolts to the upper limit of the spec. and possibly 3) Using a Shimano preload bolt.
I would be upgrading from an ancient squaretaper Dura-ace crank and bottom bracket, so I wouldn't have a spare Shimano preload bolt. But there are many aluminum ones on aliex that should work. Looks like it would be M20. Can anyone verify?
Thanks for any advice.
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Magene are now supplying with a new pre-load bolt that assumably fixes the issue. I saw this in their new instructions video.
I have the old pre-load bolt type, and it came loose multiple times. After applying threadlocker there's been zero issue :D
I'd say go for it, can't beat it for the money.
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I received the new bolt and replaced the shimano preload bolt I was using as a placeholder. The new bolt is longer and much more robust than the shimano preload bolt. Can't really remember the fine details of the original bolt, but the new one has not come loose at all.
Overall, its a great purchase. If there's a price drop for 11.11, then its a no brainer. Go for it!
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even right now the price is really good. just looked it up to my purchase on march i paid 263€ after a 50€ discount.
right now a set sits in my cart and after the choice discount it says 184$ after price adjustment and 1300 coins spent.
even if i didn't want power on my gravel bike, there will be power in the next weeks
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Thanks for the idea. Just ordered it for 171 USD incl shipping to Germany (+some local tax to be payed at the door) using the 30 USD coupon. Last time I payed ~240 USD which I considered well priced.
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Wierd. It says 230 euro for me? Official store no chainring.
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This listing with the 30 USD discount applied?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EySjajb
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Yes. Seems like I need a vpn. I am located in Norway, but the price is before VAT also.
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I emailed Magene asking about Di2 compatibility (because I’ve read some concerning things about the clearance to the front derailleur) but they basically replied it’s compatible but will be improved with new QED chainrings (but I think their response is more general, not Di2 specific). The email is obviously translated but my take is that there’s some new chainrings that might be available on Magene.com right now but not on AliExpress yet.
Just something to consider for those who also will go for the Magene chainrings.
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Yes. Seems like I need a vpn. I am located in Norway, but the price is before VAT also.
Did you go to checkout or just the basket? Vat is discounted on the last step before you klick the final buy button
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Did you go to checkout or just the basket? Vat is discounted on the last step before you klick the final buy button
Yes. When I go to checkout the VAT is added on top - so even higher price..
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Pricing is based on delivery country. That's why I mentioned my price is for Germany. Might be different for other regions.
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People happily using P505, could you please tell me, if it fits a 90.5 mm wide BB? And how much this powermeter returns back to bike's frame? I wonder if I could use P505 with my Spcycle G068 frame with t47 BB.
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People happily using P505, could you please tell me, if it fits a 90.5 mm wide BB? And how much this powermeter returns back to bike's frame? I wonder if I could use P505 with my Spcycle G068 frame with t47 BB.
Probably not worth the risk, the power meter may rub against the frame. Magene officially states it's not compatible with T47 internal BBs
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People happily using P505, could you please tell me, if it fits a 90.5 mm wide BB? And how much this powermeter returns back to bike's frame? I wonder if I could use P505 with my Spcycle G068 frame with t47 BB.
Where's the 90.5mm BB measurement from? The Spcycle G068 BB shell is 86.5mm wide.
I don't have specific experience with the Spcycle G068 frame, but I've successfully used my P505 Base PM crankset with both an Spcycle G056 frame and a VeloBuild VB-R-066 2023 Disc frame, without any spacers. Both frames used a T47 BB with internal bearings (86.5mm shell width). The clearance is slightly less on the G056 frame than it was on the VB frame.
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Where's the 90.5mm BB measurement from? The Spcycle G068 BB shell is 86.5mm wide.
I don't have specific experience with the Spcycle G068 frame, but I've successfully used my P505 Base PM crankset with both an Spcycle G056 frame and a VeloBuild VB-R-066 2023 Disc frame, without any spacers. Both frames used a T47 BB with internal bearings (86.5mm shell width). The clearance is slightly less on the G056 frame than it was on the VB frame.
I've measured with t47BB ofc, different BBs could be of different sizes, so it's only the final width with BB installed that matters.
Thank you for your reply, but could you please post a photo?
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Being able to use the P505 Base PM crankset is more about the shape of the BB area on the drive side.
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4952.msg60729.html#msg60729
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Being able to use the P505 Base PM crankset is more about the shape of the BB area on the drive side.
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4952.msg60729.html#msg60729
The shape of the frame itself is almost round, but I need info about P505 radius and how much in millimeters does it go back towards the frame.
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So I ordered one as well, ready to send it back, if 11.11. will be even cheaper.
For the chainring I'm not sure if passquest or alugear is the better choice, someone compared them?
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The shape of the frame itself is almost round, but I need info about P505 radius and how much in millimeters does it go back towards the frame.
the lockring is 4mm in height and the labled part 13mm deep, so 9mm difference. and it is 53mm in diameter at the inside of the ramp and roughly 53 at the outside of the ramp.
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the lockring is 4mm in height and the labled part 13mm deep, so 9mm difference. and it is 53mm in diameter at the inside of the ramp and roughly 53 at the outside of the ramp.
Thank you very much!
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Thank you very much!
I am also considering it for a G068 - please let me know if you think it will fit :)
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I am also considering it for a G068 - please let me know if you think it will fit :)
that's why i ripped it of my road bike, just for the hope, that it would fit.
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In case anyone was wondering, the spider that comes on the PES P505 will only fit the crankset it is supplied with. So says Magene when I emailed them. They will also sell the side lock ring (the one with rubber gasket) for 5 dollars + shipping from China.
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Well I found this mad man on youtube https://www.youtube.com/shorts/BKQRqR7GiHY
That seem to have filed the large slot on the power meter down, so it will fit easton cranks eg. the lexon carbon cranks. This probably isn't 100% safe and may change power readings, but the interface is really close to an easton standard.
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Hi all,
Want to chime in and report that I installed this unit on my bike and it works well as far as I can tell.
Why can't I post youtube links in here? I can only get a large blank space when including a yt url in my post :/
https://yo utu. be/Vs7OMbih4bk (https://youtu.be/Vs7OMbih4bk)
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Well I found this mad man on youtube https://www.youtube.com/shorts/BKQRqR7GiHY
That seem to have filed the large slot on the power meter down, so it will fit easton cranks eg. the lexon carbon cranks. This probably isn't 100% safe and may change power readings, but the interface is really close to an easton standard.
I really don't understand why magene is not doing Easton spider PM ?
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I really don't understand why magene is not doing Easton spider PM ?
Because they want to lock you in, to use their cranks going forward... That is the whole idea of doing proprietary things, so they only work with that vendor :/
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Because they want to lock you in, to use their cranks going forward... That is the whole idea of doing proprietary things, so they only work with that vendor :/
Mate I am not talking about their cranset with PM but about separate spider based PM which they also sell. I use one on sram crankset
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Added this to the first post:
If your device is an a loop or won't start/read anymore. Loading it and using a magnet above the flashing red light resets it!
Lifesaver if u think it's dead ;-)
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Hi all,
lost my pre load screw for PES505 on a ride and cannot locate it,as a result left crank came away with my shoe.
reached out to magene and panda podium for an idea as to how i can get either an original PLS or a generic replacement.
shimano are too small and spin out,(dont grab).
any ideas folks?
I swear i am going to torque it right next time!!!
UPDATE
Would you believe it it ruddy FOUND IT!!!
went back to the scene of the NDS crank arm looking to leave the party and after 5mins scouting ,there she was.
Thread lock all the way !
thanks
John
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I have a 36t deckas chainring on my CX rig. It's fine, it's the cheapest narrow-wide chainring I could find for 36t. No real complaints here!
same set up here,great job
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Price went down to 264€, today it's at 275€, while usually sitting around 300€... Bit surprising prior to 11.11., I'm hoping for a good deal
linky plz?
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Magene are now supplying with a new pre-load bolt that assumably fixes the issue. I saw this in their new instructions video.
I have the old pre-load bolt type, and it came loose multiple times. After applying threadlocker there's been zero issue :D
I'd say go for it, can't beat it for the money.
can you link that video please?
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linky plz?
Same as before?
This listing with the 30 USD discount applied?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EySjajb
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can you link that video please?
Here without the space, this site doesn't like links
https://youtu. be/ABlzKiUhX6s
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Anyone know if you can slap the "new" 48/31 GRX820-2 chainrings on this bad boy? Might wanna try it for an upcoming gravel build. According to Shimano they also feature 110/80 BCD, 4 bolt chainrings - so should fit? Or is there any other nuance to it that I overlooked?
https://bike.shimano.com/products/components/pdp.P-FC-RX820-2.html
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Anyone know if you can slap the "new" 48/31 GRX820-2 chainrings on this bad boy? Might wanna try it for an upcoming gravel build. According to Shimano they also feature 110/80 BCD, 4 bolt chainrings - so should fit? Or is there any other nuance to it that I overlooked?
https://bike.shimano.com/products/components/pdp.P-FC-RX820-2.html
It won't fit the small chainring that grx use, because of 80mm BCD. You need both chainrings to be 110mm.
As I understand it, all chainrings under 34t can't be 110 bcd because of their small diameter. Probably why mtb chainring are usually 104 bcd.
Maybe you could get a 34t and use 48/34 if FD will shift well with that combo.
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Ah bummer, yeah I see it now. Inner and outer ring have separate mounting ports. Hence the 110/80mm; makes sense now. I searched around a bit and found two manufacturers that actually offer 46/30T 110 BCD options: absoluteblack for an whopping 193€ + shipping and bikinGreen for a more reasonable 94€.
Both use some trickery to bolt the small chainring to the 110 spacing. They look a bit "experimental" but another search showed several posts from happy customers across several biking forums.
Edit: Stone also offers a reasonable 46/32T combo in 110 BCD: https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005004259412907.html
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same set up here,great job
Also my setup on my gravel bike. Minimal wear on the chainring after a few thousand miles with a few races thrown in.
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today i checked the app(to check batt statu), n theres fw update.
mine was with 0.118.
available update to 0.120
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today i checked the app(to check batt statu), n theres fw update.
mine was with 0.118.
available update to 0.120
Careful with the update, that's the update that made me search for the reset trick on this device. It updated and got stuck ;-) Just a headsup. Reset trick is in the first post :)
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Anyone know if passquest chainring is compatible with SRAM 12 speed AXS flat top chains? I just bought the p505 PES and matched with with a chainring from ali.
After reading around, it seems there might be an incompatibility with flat top chains? Wonder if anyone has first hand experience on how to mix all of this together.
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Anyone know if passquest chainring is compatible with SRAM 12 speed AXS flat top chains? I just bought the p505 PES and matched with with a chainring from ali.
After reading around, it seems there might be an incompatibility with flat top chains? Wonder if anyone has first hand experience on how to mix all of this together.
There are specific versions of those chainrings for AXS. They literally have AXS in the name. Hard to miss
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Finally got my Magene RX power meter installed, which was parted from a ZRace crankset+magene setup. It was cheaper buying it this way versus the stand alone unit. ;)
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I see you are also using a Raceworks carbon crank? Is it this one? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006794337930.html
Can you simply swap the powermeter spider off the Magene/Zrace crankset and onto the Raceworks?
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I see you are also using a Raceworks carbon crank? Is it this one? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006794337930.html
Can you simply swap the powermeter spider off the Magene/Zrace crankset and onto the Raceworks?
Yes, as long as it’s a 3 bolt crankset. The Zrace crankset is actually not bad. It’s well made, but it has a 29mm spindle axle and I prefer 24mm on bsa threaded frames for the bigger bearings. Also I found using Shimano chainrings the most effortless. I might pick up an Ultegra chainring setup later on for the slight weight reduction. I’m using a spare 105 chainring and it’s about a 50g weight difference.
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Thanks! Why are you running those over the Magene PES crankset? That also features a 24mm spindle. Just the weight savings?
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Thanks! Why are you running those over the Magene PES crankset? That also features a 24mm spindle. Just the weight savings?
Just to be sure I will say it again. You can not use the PM that is on the base crank on any other crank.
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Oh, I see, the ZRACE x MAGENE actually uses the MAGENE P505-S1103 version. I didn't think they use a different mounting on their own crankset. Weird choice ...
Good call TidyDinosaur to mention it again. Might have fooled someone (totally not me! ;) ).
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Oh, I see, the ZRACE x MAGENE actually uses the MAGENE P505-S1103 version. I didn't think they use a different mounting on their own crankset. Weird choice ...
Good call TidyDinosaur to mention it again. Might have fooled someone (totally not me! ;) ).
Yeah, it was directed at that friend of yours :)
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Yeah, it was directed at that friend of yours :)
Yeah I forgot to mention this is the P505-S1103 power meter! ;D
I actually prefer using this 3 bolt spider just because 3 bolt cranksets are plentiful on AliExpress and the spider allows multiple chainring configurations. Though Shimano chainrings seem to work the best out the box.
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Makes sense. I wasn't too familiar with the different crankset/spider options until just a few weeks ago. Only ever used Shimano so far.
However, if you use the magene PM, you still need to use 110 BCD chainrings. No difference there.
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I was planning on using a bikingreen 46/30 (110bcd) with the magine spyder. will the bikingreen rings not mount?
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I was planning on using a bikingreen 46/30 (110bcd) with the magine spyder. will the bikingreen rings not mount?
i havent use that chainring, but being bcd110 4holes, i dont see any reason why it wont fit.
However there may need some FD tweaking just in case the chainring offsets outward a lil bit (afaik shimano 12sp 2xchainring guys had this little issue)
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got my second PM on friday. After registering in the app there was a SW update to version 0.120.
Yesterday i wanted to update my "old" PM (bought in march), but there is no SW update available…
Any ideas or suggestions what to do?
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Just to be sure I will say it again. You can not use the PM that is on the base crank on any other crank.
Another person posted before that interface of Magene PES spider is the same in Riro carbon crankset.
I´m thinking on switchning for the looks, but I don´t expect too much weight savings.
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Another person posted before that interface of Magene PES spider is the same in Riro carbon crankset.
I´m thinking on switchning for the looks, but I don´t expect too much weight savings.
I don’t see how that is going to work unless you file the spider since the PES spider has a different interface. Or are you not talking about this video
https://youtube.com/shorts/BKQRqR7GiHY?si=XAJl-NL1sLheddN_
The other poster used the p505.
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If I had the P505 PES I'd just leave it as-is. Buy the P505 spider only if you want to try different cranksets!
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I don’t see how that is going to work unless you file the spider since the PES spider has a different interface. Or are you not talking about this video
https://youtube.com/shorts/BKQRqR7GiHY?si=XAJl-NL1sLheddN_
The other poster used the p505.
that does not look good
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I t looks like mine died today after a little less than 2 years.
I'm in contact with customer support as it still in warranty period....
We will see how mMagene react ....
After long email discussions and multiple photos and measurements, magene accepted to get warranty activated.
Sending the device back to china wasn't a that easy but made it after 3:weeks.
And finally after a month at Magene they told me that powermeter was repaired....
I'm now waiting to receive it and test it.
I'll keep you posted
Nicoloc
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Thanks for the update - given some poor experiences people have had here with Magene before this sounds like it's at least getting better.
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got my second PM on friday. After registering in the app there was a SW update to version 0.120.
Yesterday i wanted to update my "old" PM (bought in march), but there is no SW update available…
Any ideas or suggestions what to do?
for the ones who are interested:
the old version (8 month old) can not be updated at this point in time.
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Just received my crankset/power meter set. During registration I was notified of the software update and started the process. While updating my phone went to sleep. I woke it back up and had to “manually” finish the update. But after the update-I wasn’t able to connect to the unit with my phone. Doing the magnet reset fixed it all.
For anyone who needs to know how to do a magnet reset — pop the charger on the unit and plug it back in. While plugged in, bring a magnet and hold it just above the charging light (with the Magene logo reading normally) till the light blinks a couple times. That should take care of it.
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Is there any reason to go with the P505 PES powermeter crankset over the P505-S1103 spider only? I just got my 2nd S1103 and I'm loving the fact I can slap it on any 3-bolt crankset. I can also use any 110BCD chainring both in 4 and 5 bolt. Not to mention it fits on both my threaded BSA and BB86 framesets.
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Mainly that the default PES P505 base setup is a decent, cheap 24mm steel-spindled crank. At the prices I see on AliExpress, it's about the same price to buy the P505 base and the P505 on ZRace cranks, but the ZRace cranks seem to have a pretty poor reputation so you'd have to factor in buying a different crank. While the spider not being compatible with anything else is a downside and the crank is not particularly light (slightly heavier than standard 105 with 105 rings, I forget the specific number but maybe 840g?), it has been a set and forget experience for me after install.
If you don't mind an aluminium 24mm axle, I agree that Riro crank + P505 is the best budget lightweight option. If going for a DUB crank, the Lexon R1 DUB + XCadey Easton spider is about $60 USD more expensive arguably a safer option from an axle perspective. The other great option as well is a second-hand D1 Red crankset if you're lucky enough to find one in the length you want, and then using either an XCadey or Magene spider for 110BCD rings.
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Mainly that the default PES P505 base setup is a decent, cheap 24mm steel-spindled crank. At the prices I see on AliExpress, it's about the same price to buy the P505 base and the P505 on ZRace cranks, but the ZRace cranks seem to have a pretty poor reputation so you'd have to factor in buying a different crank. While the spider not being compatible with anything else is a downside and the crank is not particularly light (slightly heavier than standard 105 with 105 rings, I forget the specific number but maybe 840g?), it has been a set and forget experience for me after install.
I just remember the ZRace RX cranks do have issues with bad pedal threads. I did pick up the Magene spider + ZRace combo because it was cheaper than the stand alone unit. I already own the Riro/Racework carbon cranksets so it worked out for me. Also I was intending to use the ZRace crank on my upcoming gravel bike, but now I'm not sure that's a good idea!
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The combo is significantly cheaper than buying separate.
I don’t know. I don’t really like the looks of the PES, and the weight is also a bit high. But thinking about spending 5-700USD for a decent looking combo that’s ideally 24mmdoes not make that much sense.
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The combo is significantly cheaper than buying separate.
I don’t know. I don’t really like the looks of the PES, and the weight is also a bit high. But thinking about spending 5-700USD for a decent looking combo that’s ideally 24mmdoes not make that much sense.
You can get a carbon Riro crank (24mm old version) for about 100 and the PM for 230. I don't see why you would get a PM you can only use on 1 crank.
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Ah you are right.
After the VAT discounts one is close to that. Maybe even better when they replenish the discount codes.
Anyways. I already own the PES. And on another bike the CS325.
Both BB86 bikes, so can’t go for SRAM…
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I installed the PES P505 Powermeter cranks today on my new Velobuild and took them for a first test ride on the trainer. First of all i gotta say they work flawless with the 105 Di2 derailleur.
I did a ramp test on zwift so i could compare the powermeter numbers with the numbers from the smart trainer and they were spot on. I really hope i won't get any issues with the crank coming loose as i heard about that a lot but apart from that i am really happy so far. I paid 269 us dollar on aliexpress (including chainrings) with some discount but had to pay 55€ import taxes + handling fee when they arrived at my door in germany. I think on some occasions you can get them for a little cheaper.
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Anyone tried removing the graphics from the crankarm? Possibly acetone ?
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Anyone tried removing the graphics from the crankarm? Possibly acetone ?
Would be really cool for a cleaner look but i am too scared to also damage the black paint underneath.
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Would be really cool for a cleaner look but i am too scared to also damage the black paint underneath.
Try it on the back. Maybe on a spot that is hidden behind the PM.
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Anyone hooked this up to a 46t riro carbon chainring? Not sure how to install as there no mounting holes in the chainring, will it be compatible? Thanks
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If you want to use with the Rio, you need to get the 1103 (I think that's the one) version compatible with 3 bolt direct mount (sram's old standard).
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reached out to Panda podium and they sent the updated pre load screw free of charge.
sound bunch of lads tbh!
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What's the difference between the new and old preload screw. Is the new one just a single one and not two that are threaded together? Mine came with the latter option even tough i bought it just recently and i'm wondering if i should reach out to magene to maybe get the new one.
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What's the difference between the new and old preload screw. Is the new one just a single one and not two that are threaded together? Mine came with the latter option even tough i bought it just recently and i'm wondering if i should reach out to magene to maybe get the new one.
the new one should be the two parted one. As this is what i got as a spare for my lost one and with the new PM i bought in november.
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Thanks to this thread I was able to fix a problem with my second pair of Magene 505 PES.
The first crank PM set is in use since April 2024 without issues exept for the crank getting loose on two occasions, using strong Loctite fixed the issue permanently.
I bought the second PES set some time ago but built up my new bike just recently.
After acivation and Firmware update I found that I could connect to the PM with my Garmin Edge and also Fenix watch but no Power or Cadence data is displayed when pedaling. Checking the Magene App it would calibrate but the Pedal balance would show 100% on the left Pedal.
After reading this thread I found the trick connecting power and then using a Magnet over the red LED to perform a reset, which magially fixed my issue and power and cadence is now displayed…
Thanks to all contributors
BR Chris
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reached out to Panda podium and they sent the updated pre load screw free of charge.
sound bunch of lads tbh!
Also got mine free of charge from geosid store on AliExpress. They just asked me to make a 1$ buy on their store so the shipping will be covered
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Can someone post a picture of the new preload screw?
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I have the P505 S1078 powermeter. So 8 bolt Sram inside and 104 Bcd with 4 arm outside.
I am now looking for suitable chainrings for a triathlon with 52/36. I have not found any suitable ones from Sram.
Do you have any idea which cheap ones I can use or do I need a different crank? I currently have a foce crank with 48/31.
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Can someone post a picture of the new preload screw?
You can find it in the installation manual from magene website
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Also got mine free of charge from geosid store on AliExpress. They just asked me to make a 1$ buy on their store so the shipping will be covered
Damn. Had to pay $30 for mine.
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get on to you reseller as they shuld refund you.
a known manufacturing defect- you shouldnt have to pay out extra!
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get on to you reseller as they shuld refund you.
a known manufacturing defect- you shouldnt have to pay out extra!
Reseller didn’t have them at the time. Had to go direct to Magene. Not worth the trouble, and I doubt I’ll get any kind of refund.
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In other news…was looking to build up a new frame and move my powermeter over to it, but the frames are T47. Some have made it work, but is there any way to know for sure if it’ll work without having the frame on hand to check?
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It probably depends on how flat the transition is from seat tube to bottom bracket area. On the Trek it's basically flat which I suspect is what causes the interference with the frame. On some other T47 frames the BB shell interface kind of pokes out a bit, which gives some extra clearance for the spider.
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In other news…was looking to build up a new frame and move my powermeter over to it, but the frames are T47. Some have made it work, but is there any way to know for sure if it’ll work without having the frame on hand to check?
Depends on whether it is internal or external t47 as the magene description says.
24mm Steel Spindle, Compatible with SHIMANO Bottom Bracket
PES P505 Base power meter features 24mm steel spindle, which is also popular spindle on the market. It can provide optimum balance for crankset.
SHIMANO users can install it directly without replacing the bottom bracket.
*The BB386 bottom bracket is not compatible.
*For T47 frames, only compatible with external bottom brackets
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Just checking, is everyone using 12-14nm torque with their Shimano chainrings?
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Depends on whether it is internal or external t47 as the magene description says.
24mm Steel Spindle, Compatible with SHIMANO Bottom Bracket
PES P505 Base power meter features 24mm steel spindle, which is also popular spindle on the market. It can provide optimum balance for crankset.
SHIMANO users can install it directly without replacing the bottom bracket.
*The BB386 bottom bracket is not compatible.
*For T47 frames, only compatible with external bottom brackets
Problem is most of the newer gravel frames I'm seeing use the wider 86.5mm bb shell which means I'd need internal t47.
So the options are take a chance on a frame that may not be compatible or limit my search to BSA frames.
BXT has some bsa options, but they seem to have mixed reviews.
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Just checking, is everyone using 12-14nm torque with their Shimano chainrings?
personally wouldn't recommend it. Tightend my Tiagra Chainrings with 12-13nm and when it came to loosen them one just turned itself without loosing. So on retightening i went down to something around 8nm, which should be enough.
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I'm thinking about getting the P505 for the TideAce Gravelbike with T47I. I run Shimano 12 speed R8100 double crank 50/34 and would like to get the spider base for this crankset. Does anyone have this working? I read some thing about using it with T47 external but not a whole lot about T47 Internal. Would appreciate some feedback!
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Is pes505 power meter compatible with crank arms?
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Is pes505 power meter compatible with crank arms?
The P505 base version that comes with the Magene PES crank arms is not, but there are other P505 spiders to suit other crank arms.
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The Pes505 Base 'may not' fit BB386 depending on the bike's BB shell shape (theres too many shapes out there) thus Magene is giving a safe-bet disclaimer.
On my TT912 BB386, I can fit the Pes505 Base just fine. Your frame may vary.
Is pes505 power meter compatible with crank arms?
the Pes505 has 2 different category, Pes505 that doesnt come with crankarms, and 2 p505-base thats with crankarm. afaik the Base one is not compatible with any other crankarm if in future you wanna swap crankarm. The spider only category then comes with differrent flavors too for different arm/chainring combos.
be careful on what you are ordering
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I was able to get the pes505 base @170usd locally brand new but I dont like the crank arms. I was thinking i can put on my praxis zayante. Anyway still good price for a power meter.
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Damn. Had to pay $30 for mine.
Same here, bought the P505 PES Base Spider Powermeter through the Magene Official Store on ALiExpress.
They suggested I get in contact with Service via Email, they offered the updated bolt for 5 USD and asked for 29 USD shipping to Germany with FedEx.
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Has anyone tried matching P505 PES base with wolftooth 1x chainring? I'm having issues installing the bolt as there's a gap that remains after tightening the bolt.
The bolt i bought has a 6mm length, is that the right bolt to use?
Note: The chainring is wolftooth 42t 110BCD for shimano crank.
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The bolt i bought has a 6mm length, is that the right bolt to use?
Note: The chainring is wolftooth 42t 110BCD for shimano crank.
at first i thought you had the wrong bolt. but checking aliEx, 1x rings are 6mm bolts. are you sure your bolts are 6mm?
i dont have issue with passquest bolts with my pq 1x rings
theres chainring shims for the bolt for aliex as last resort
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Has anyone tried matching P505 PES base with wolftooth 1x chainring? I'm having issues installing the bolt as there's a gap that remains after tightening the bolt.
The bolt i bought has a 6mm length, is that the right bolt to use?
Note: The chainring is wolftooth 42t 110BCD for shimano crank.
You need shorter bolts for installing this. You won't get the chainring fixed with these bolts
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Looking through wolftooth website, it seems that this version "GR8" is marketed for grx crank. Rather annoying that they list this item in the normal 110 bcd listing as well. "SH" version might work, but do your own test.
For future reference. GR8 version of this chainring doesn't seem to be compatible with pes base. I ended up having to buy a normal crankset to finish my build.
Hopefully i can repurpose this powermeter to my ultegra roadbike.
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did you end up getting any answers/clarity on this? i am considering the same thing.
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Hey @gloscherrybomb -- did the magene p505 end up working for you on a tideace noah? i'm thinking about the same combo as well.
I'm running it on a Tideace Noah. It looks like it is relatively bulbous in that area, so I will hold out hope!
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Has anyone had any issues with loose arms that other users have reported? The new updated pre-loaded screws look promising, but I'd like to confirm with other users here.
I have the opportunity to get this for $400 CAD (incl shipping), which is very, very enticing considering how expensive powermeters are. But the loose arm reports are discouraging.
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Has anyone had any issues with loose arms that other users have reported? The new updated pre-loaded screws look promising, but I'd like to confirm with other users here.
I have the opportunity to get this for $400 CAD (incl shipping), which is very, very enticing considering how expensive powermeters are. But the loose arm reports are discouraging.
I'm pretty sure all new units ship with the updated preload screw. Mine has been problem free since I replaced the old screw with the new one.
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I'm pretty sure all new units ship with the updated preload screw. Mine has been problem free since I replaced the old screw with the new one.
Awesome, thanks. How long have you been using it for?
May have to place an order for one next week. :)
Edit (02/08/2025): I have bought a 4iiii powermeter that was unused by someone for $220 CAD. No comment on the Magene, but I'm not passing up that sweet price I found on Marketplace!
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Awesome, thanks. How long have you've been using it for?
May have to place an order for one next week. :)
All together, over a year. 3 months with the new preload bolt.
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I have the one with the new preload screw on my roadbike and so far no issues. I've ridden more than 1000km and the crank still sits tight. I did use some loctite on the screw to be sure though. I also installed it on my gravel bike also with the new preload screw. Didn't use loctite here but it's to early to say if it holds or not as i've ridden it only two times. But i'm confident it will hold even without loctite.
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10k, old screws and loctite - bomb proof
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Has anyone had any issues with loose arms that other users have reported? The new updated pre-loaded screws look promising, but I'd like to confirm with other users here.
I have the opportunity to get this for $400 CAD (incl shipping), which is very, very enticing considering how expensive powermeters are. But the loose arm reports are discouraging.
Reached out to panda podium where i bought mine after original crank bolt dislodged and eventually retraced my steps & found it on the road.
bought threadlocker and put some on and no issues since
in the meantime PP sent out updated bolt so have a backup.
I find PP very good to deal with -289 euro delivered for PM 165mm on TT with pass quest NW 58T- find the set up great for TT leagues near me.
just need to work on the horsepowere now!
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Hey @gloscherrybomb -- did the magene p505 end up working for you on a tideace noah? i'm thinking about the same combo as well.
Yes...I run a tiny spacer, but that is mainly to give a bit more clearance for my 46T chainring.
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can this spider be used on any other cranks?
carbon etc?
if so can you link one?
for weight redux etc
thanks
J
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can this spider be used on any other cranks?
carbon etc?
if so can you link one?
thanks
J
AFAIK the PES P505 is only compatible with the cranks it comes with. But they also sell a standalone Powermeter that's compatible with other cranks:
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005005143335319.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.2.5345zhxMzhxMx0&algo_pvid=6d219ae9-8d80-4058-a1ab-7d5ca2da9944&algo_exp_id=6d219ae9-8d80-4058-a1ab-7d5ca2da9944-1&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%223%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%7D&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%21489.39%21391.51%21%21%21489.39%21391.51%21%40%2112000031837198880%21sea
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I tried to use the Magene powermeter with 50/34 pass quest chainrings but unfortunately it won't shift onto the big chainring. I tried different adjustments for days but can't get it to work. With the original Chainrings from Shimano it will shift without any problems.
Has anyone a different working recommendation for a 12 speed Shimano ultrgra di2 which is working with the Magene Powermeter?
I would really appreciate it.
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This is interesting and concerning. I was planning to get the same combo, and I did not think this could even be a problem. How's that even possible? Does the FD not travel far enough to shift?
There are even photos of passquest + Magene P505 PES, that's why it's even more shocking.
Edit: What frame and BB is this?
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I tried to use the Magene powermeter with 50/34 pass quest chainrings but unfortunately it won't shift onto the big chainring. I tried different adjustments for days but can't get it to work. With the original Chainrings from Shimano it will shift without any problems.
Has anyone a different working recommendation for a 12 speed Shimano ultrgra di2 which is working with the Magene Powermeter?
I would really appreciate it.
I tried other chainrings with my Magene power meter and just settled with Shimano chainrings.
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This is interesting and concerning. I was planning to get the same combo, and I did not think this could even be a problem. How's that even possible? Does the FD not travel far enough to shift?
There are even photos of passquest + Magene P505 PES, that's why it's even more shocking.
Edit: What frame and BB is this?
It’s an Airwolf YFR 066 frame with a threaded ZTTO BB86 bottom bracket, but I don’t think this is the cause of the issue. I even tried fitting the Pass Quest chainrings on the Shimano crank, but it won’t shift up.
The first problem with the Magene and Pass Quest combination was that the adjustment range was insufficient, and the screw to adjust the Di2 derailleur was too short. To fix this, I made a 2mm thick plate that went under the front derailleur hanger. This allowed me to adjust it perfectly in the app, and I also tried fine-tuning it several times using the shifters. However, despite multiple adjustments, I still couldn’t get it to shift up.
Interestingly, the first time after installing the groupset, it somehow worked quite okay for a while. Since the derailleur is perfectly adjusted but still won’t shift, my guess is that the gap between the small and big chainring is somehow out of spec, or there is an issue with the tooth pattern on the chainring. With the Shimano chainring, it even shifts properly without being precisely adjusted.
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It’s an Airwolf YFR 066 frame with a threaded ZTTO BB86 bottom bracket, but I don’t think this is the cause of the issue. I even tried fitting the Pass Quest chainrings on the Shimano crank, but it won’t shift up.
The first problem with the Magene and Pass Quest combination was that the adjustment range was insufficient, and the screw to adjust the Di2 derailleur was too short. To fix this, I made a 2mm thick plate that went under the front derailleur hanger. This allowed me to adjust it perfectly in the app, and I also tried fine-tuning it several times using the shifters. However, despite multiple adjustments, I still couldn’t get it to shift up.
Interestingly, the first time after installing the groupset, it somehow worked quite okay for a while. Since the derailleur is perfectly adjusted but still won’t shift, my guess is that the gap between the small and big chainring is somehow out of spec, or there is an issue with the tooth pattern on the chainring. With the Shimano chainring, it even shifts properly without being precisely adjusted.
It is indeed weird, because setup with Shimano cranks seems fairly common. Passquest website even advertises this setup. Would you mind posting a photo of the chainrings?
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It is indeed weird, because setup with Shimano cranks seems fairly common. Passquest website even advertises this setup. Would you mind posting a photo of the chainrings?
This is the listing where i bought the chainring from:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806667409055.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.176.2f2d5c5fSsKDxz&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806667409055.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.176.2f2d5c5fSsKDxz&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt)
It was the 50-34 11-12s cl variant.
I even tried to install it with the small chainring facing to the pedals because the seller said this would be the right direction.
No matter what settings I try it won't shift to the bigger chainring.
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.heic? Are u fr?
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.
No matter what settings I try it won't shift to the bigger chainring.
Im not familiar with PQ 2x rings, does it has a chain ramp catcher?
when you shift the FD, does the chain even tried to get onto the catcher behind the big ring, or also didnt grab it at all?
Luke@Teacevelo had one of his ring having that problem, where the catcher doesnt protrude out enough to catch the chain to ramp up (he did get it to shifting, but took extra revs)
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Im not familiar with PQ 2x rings, does it has a chain ramp catcher?
when you shift the FD, does the chain even tried to get onto the catcher behind the big ring, or also didnt grab it at all?
Luke@Teacevelo had one of his ring having that problem, where the catcher doesn't protrude out enough to catch the chain to ramp up (he did get it to shifting, but took extra revs)
I made a short Video which shows what exactly is happening. Weired Thing is that when I built up the Bike it was shifting up after a few rotations, but after riding it for a few miles there was no chance of it shifting up.
https://streamable.com/1rpwiw (https://streamable.com/1rpwiw)
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Did anybody buy a new preload screw from Magene? I asked them via email and they charge 5 USD for it which is reasonable. But they ask for more than 20 USD for shipping to germany which i think is a little steep and doesn’t even include the import fees.
Is there any way to get it cheaper?
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Did anybody buy a new preload screw from Magene? I asked them via email and they charge 5 USD for it which is reasonable. But they ask for more than 20 USD for shipping to germany which i think is a little steep and doesn’t even include the import fees.
Is there any way to get it cheaper?
That is happig! ;) Had to buy there T300 part, after i lost mine. Came in at around 12$ back in August.
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Did anybody buy a new preload screw from Magene? I asked them via email and they charge 5 USD for it which is reasonable. But they ask for more than 20 USD for shipping to germany which i think is a little steep and doesn’t even include the import fees.
Is there any way to get it cheaper?
That's the same price I got a few months back.
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Anybody ever tried to buy just the cranks? Wanna try shorter cranks
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Anybody ever tried to buy just the cranks? Wanna try shorter cranks
Their contact email is support@magene.com. If you ask them how much it would cost please share the results here
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In order to facilitate your purchase of the crank arm, we need to confirm the following information with you:1.May I ask what specific specifications of crank arms you would like to purchase? We have crank arms in 165MM, 167.5MM, 170MM, 172.5MM, and 175MM sizes available
2.The price of a pair of PESP505 crank arms is 90 USD, and you also need to purchase a pair of matching left side cover screws and three O-rings for 5 USD
3. According to the previous experience, the shipping cost will exceed 20 usd dollars. If you accept the price, please send me your address, receiver name, phone number, the post code . I will check with our shipping agent and send you the exact shipping cost. And we accept USD via Paypal. When you receive the package, please arrange the custom clearance fee yourself.
yea idk if ~100€ is worth it to me
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I tried to use the Magene powermeter with 50/34 pass quest chainrings but unfortunately it won't shift onto the big chainring. I tried different adjustments for days but can't get it to work. With the original Chainrings from Shimano it will shift without any problems.
Has anyone a different working recommendation for a 12 speed Shimano ultrgra di2 which is working with the Magene Powermeter?
I would really appreciate it.
I have 11s dura Ace and changed chainrings to stone 50/34 and it works even better then 52/36 dura Ace.
I am using the version for 12s https://a.aliexpress.com/_EG6wEOU
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Did anybody buy a new preload screw from Magene? I asked them via email and they charge 5 USD for it which is reasonable. But they ask for more than 20 USD for shipping to germany which i think is a little steep and doesn’t even include the import fees.
Is there any way to get it cheaper?
Maybe try geoid official store. I've bought the cranset from them and when I had a problem with preload screw I wrote to them and they've send me a new for free, just had to buy some fake auction do 4$ so AliExpress shipping was covered.
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I have 11s dura Ace and changed chainrings to stone 50/34 and it works even better then 52/36 dura Ace.
I am using the version for 12s https://a.aliexpress.com/_EG6wEOU
Thank you for your recommendation! Could you maybe sent a picture how it looks with the Magene pm? Thanks a lot!
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Has anybody else had any calibration issues with their unit?
When I first received the power meter, every time I calibrated it, it gave a calibration value of 10-12. The power numbers it gave were reliable and as expected.
However, after a few months the battery started to run low and so I charged it back to 100%. Since then, it has given calibration values of 14-16 and has given me much lower power numbers (40-50W lower).
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Maybe try geoid official store. I've bought the cranset from them and when I had a problem with preload screw I wrote to them and they've send me a new for free, just had to buy some fake auction do 4$ so AliExpress shipping was covered.
Thank you will try that out! I‘ve sent magene my shipping adress and now they want 5 usd for the screw and 29 usd for the shipping which is ridiculous.
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I tried to use the Magene powermeter with 50/34 pass quest chainrings but unfortunately it won't shift onto the big chainring. I tried different adjustments for days but can't get it to work. With the original Chainrings from Shimano it will shift without any problems.
Has anyone a different working recommendation for a 12 speed Shimano ultrgra di2 which is working with the Magene Powermeter?
I would really appreciate it.
I am running the Magene PES P505 Base Power Meter with Pass Quest 48/35 chainrings on a 12-speed Shimano 105 di2 setup.
Works just fine...
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I am running the Magene PES P505 Base Power Meter with Pass Quest 48/35 chainrings on a 12-speed Shimano 105 di2 setup.
Works just fine...
Could you maybe sent a linkt to the chainrings you bought? Maybe I will buy another set and try it out. Because as I said I tried them on different bikes now with the Shimano Crank and Magene Crank, so I am pretty sure there must be something off with the chainrings I got.
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Could you maybe sent a linkt to the chainrings you bought? Maybe I will buy another set and try it out. Because as I said I tried them on different bikes now with the Shimano Crank and Magene Crank, so I am pretty sure there must be something off with the chainrings I got.
Seems I ordered these
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005005046221641.html (https://aliexpress.com/item/1005005046221641.html)
but just now I realize they are advertised as 9/10/11-speed ordinary chain in the Cycling Tribe Store.
But then I also bought these
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005006649110221.html (https://aliexpress.com/item/1005006649110221.html)
and they are advertised as 9/10/11/12-speed ordinary chain in the Your Bike Store.
Both in use with 12-speed Shimano Ultegra (on an Ultegra crank) and 105 (Magene PES P505 Base Power Meter), no issues with both.
Edit:
Just noticed the difference between the two linked above: one is for R7000/R8000 (one rounded bolt area) vs. R7100/8100/9200 (with two rounded bolt areas).
This only matters when mounting the chainring to a Shimano crank, while it does not matter for the Magene PES P505 Base Power Meter.
Both chainrings are marked 11-12s
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Thank you for your recommendation! Could you maybe sent a picture how it looks with the Magene pm? Thanks a lot!
Here u go
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EIdBqco
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Seems I ordered these
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005005046221641.html (https://aliexpress.com/item/1005005046221641.html)
but just now I realize they are advertised as 9/10/11-speed ordinary chain in the Cycling Tribe Store.
But then I also bought these
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005006649110221.html (https://aliexpress.com/item/1005006649110221.html)
and they are advertised as 9/10/11/12-speed ordinary chain in the Your Bike Store.
Both in use with 12-speed Shimano Ultegra (on an Ultegra crank) and 105 (Magene PES P505 Base Power Meter), no issues with both.
Edit:
Just noticed the difference between the two linked above: one is for R7000/R8000 (one rounded bolt area) vs. R7100/8100/9200 (with two rounded bolt areas).
This only matters when mounting the chainring to a Shimano crank, while it does not matter for the Magene PES P505 Base Power Meter.
Both chainrings are marked 11-12s
Thanks a lot!
Could you tell me if the Lettering on the small chainring should face to the Bottom Bracket or to the Pedals? I heard different installation instructions from the seller (but both did not work for me).
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Thanks a lot!
Could you tell me if the Lettering on the small chainring should face to the Bottom Bracket or to the Pedals? I heard different installation instructions from the seller (but both did not work for me).
Marking is facing the left crank arm side for the Pass Quest that I have.
This is the same side where the hole for the bolt has a chamfer.
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Marking is facing the left crank arm side for the Pass Quest that I have.
This is the same side where the hole for the bolt has a chamfer.
Ok, thank you! This is how I thought the right direction would be. I ordered the ZRace Chainrings today and If I will get them to work, I will buy another pair of the Pass Quest Chain rings from the Link you've sent. Maybe it was some Kind of production defect, or I was sent a chainring which was not compatible for the 12 speed shimano groupset.
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I can confirm that combo PassQuest + PES P505 + Ultegra 12spd + T47A works and shifts well
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Which frame is this? It's not the BB itself that prevents the working installation of a Magene spider, it's the way the structure around the BB is formed by some frame manufacturers that might inhibit free movement.
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Yes, but there was recently some confusion if passquest + p505 works with 12 spd shimano.
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Yes, but there was recently some confusion if passquest + p505 works with 12 spd shimano.
Good to know. I am using a ZTTO Threaded BB 86 and thought that maybe it would be too wide because of the Tool Interface on each side. But it does not look wider and I tried it on a bike with a normal bb86 Shimano bearing as well. I am currently thinking about ordering it from a different seller again because I can not think about another reason why it shouldn't work on my bikes.
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Must have missed that. Never knew that was in question. Been using a PassQuest Aero 50/34 + Magene PES P505 Base combo since almost a year now without any issues - on a BB86 that is.
T47 with some frames gives you issues though (nothing new either), that's why I was interested in which frame you are using. You conveniently still left this info out :D
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Must have missed that. Never knew that was in question. Been using a PassQuest Aero 50/34 + Magene PES P505 Base combo since almost a year now without any issues - on a BB86 that is.
T47 with some frames gives you issues though (nothing new either), that's why I was interested in which frame you are using. You conveniently still left this info out :D
My Ceccotti RF25 / SPCycle G056 frameset with T47 seems to work well with cranksets supposedly only for threaded BSA. The same cranks on my BB86 frame don't work. I have a feeling the Magene PES would work on that frame.
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Must have missed that. Never knew that was in question. Been using a PassQuest Aero 50/34 + Magene PES P505 Base combo since almost a year now without any issues - on a BB86 that is.
T47 with some frames gives you issues though (nothing new either), that's why I was interested in which frame you are using. You conveniently still left this info out :D
I am sorry. I was trying it on a Airwolf YFR 066 and on my Rose Reveal 06 both with BB86. I am thinking about ordering a Tantan Frame with T47 soon. So maybe I am able to try it on another Frame.
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I can add that the P505 PES did work with a T47 from SPcycle (G069). My Power2Max didn't.
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I can add that the P505 PES did work with a T47 from SPcycle (G069). My Power2Max didn't.
Thank for the info. As i'm really into the G068 it's nice to know, that i can swap my 505 onto it.
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I did buy the cheapest chainrings on AliExpress right now. The zrace chainrings were like 17 dollar and I wanted to test if really my setup in general is the problem or the pass quest chainrings. Weired thing was that the small chainring did not have enough space to clear the chainstay when used with the original Shimano crank.
But after fitting the zrace chainrings with my Magene powermeter it just works like a charm. Seems to even shift a tad better than Magene with Shimano chainrings.
Attached you can find a picture of the pass quest and the zrace chainring from the backside. My guess was that maybe those silver bits which guide the chain to the big ring when shifting up are missing or not pronounced enough on the pass quest chainring. But I am not entirely sure about that. I will order another set and try it again because they look so much better.
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Has anyone tested the pes p505 with a 48-33t or 46-32t chainring combo or understands whether that would work?
E.g. by stone: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005006848072861.html or praxis works https://www.bike24.com/p2674816.html
I want to reduce my 50-34T to for long steep mountain rides...
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Has anyone tested the pes p505 with a 48-33t or 46-32t chainring combo or understands whether that would work?
E.g. by stone: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005006848072861.html or praxis works https://www.bike24.com/p2674816.html
I want to reduce my 50-34T to for long steep mountain rides...
Haven't tested it myself but i am pretty sure it would work as long as it's 110 BCD.
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Agree with Tilman. As long as they are 110 BCD which the above links are, I don't see a reason why it shouldn't.