Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: 100poods on January 15, 2024, 11:12:14 AM
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Apparently LTWOO have officially revealed the 1x gravel version of their electronic groupset.
https://www.ltwoo.com/eGR/eGR
Supporting 10-12 speeds, with a maximum compatible tooth count of 46T.
The eGR groupset includes:
Shift levers (left、right)
Electronic rear derailleur
Front、Rear Brake calipers (with hydraulic hoses)
Seatpost battery
Magnetic charging cable
Derailleur Connecting cable
MSRP 3500 RMB (~500$)
Hidden link from 80 Designer Store
https://sl.aliexpress.ru/p?key=2WbVOP1
Full groupset with box and battery ~650$
Available on eBay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/204611810692
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I was excited about this group when I first heard about it but with all the issues ERX has had, I'll definitely wait this one out a bit.
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I was excited about this group when I first heard about it but with all the issues ERX has had, I'll definitely wait this one out a bit.
Same, either that or wait for Sensah. If their full mechanical group's quality is any indication, I think Sensah will be better than what LTwoo did in first attempt.
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I’m also interested in waiting for tests in the 2x system, I wonder what the capacity is, I like their compatibility like SRAM and much better than Shimano.
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Any news? Maybe directly from Ltwoo, if they read this as well...
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Any news? Maybe directly from Ltwoo, if they read this as well...
I see it available at the Ltwoo official store on Ali. Not sure if its been updated from the version we've seen on the Trace Velo youtube channel. That version had some issues.
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Do you have a link?
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i've installed 5 er9 and 4 sensah 2x11 mech. for me, LTWOO > Sensah, any day of the week. The FD from Sensah is useless, i've had a Sensah RD die on me for no reason and Sensah told me to go F myself. Meanwhile, at least until now, my experience with ltwoo has been flawless. I'll be the 1st to start shitting on them if that changes, though.
People here keep saying erx has had problems. Afaik, the sleep issue was because of batteries with tabs instead of springs, that's fixed now, and SOME have complained about water ingress in the cable port of the RD, which you can seal with grease or liquid electric tape. Tracevelo literally submerged his egr and had no issues. I'm not aware of other issues?
And the er9/erx even has more functionality in the app than shimano; i dont get the hate.
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i've installed 5 er9 and 4 sensah 2x11 mech. for me, LTWOO > Sensah, any day of the week. The FD from Sensah is useless, i've had a Sensah RD die on me for no reason and Sensah told me to go F myself. Meanwhile, at least until now, my experience with ltwoo has been flawless. I'll the 1st to start shitting on them if that changes, though.
People here keep saying erx has had problems. Afaik, the sleep issue was because of batteries with tabs instead of springs, that's fixed now, and SOME have complained about water ingress in the cable port of the RD, which you can seal with grease of liquid electric tape. Tracevelo literally submerged his egr and had no issues. I'm not aware of other issues?
And the er9/erx literally has more functionality in the app than shimano; i dont get the hate.
Where do you buy your ltwoo parts? Find them very unresponsive on Ali.
They don't even answer basic questions :s
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Where do you buy your ltwoo parts? Find them very unresponsive on Ali.
They don't even answer basic questions :s
I bought 5 groups at once via an OEM supplier. I also have a wechat contact who works there but he's rather unhelpful, wouldn't recommend him.
As a friend says, never underestimate workers' ability for incompetence.
You can probably ask your basic questions here, almost for sure we collectively have put more miles on these groups than they have.
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Do you have a link?
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806450112754.html
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Where do you buy your ltwoo parts? Find them very unresponsive on Ali.
They don't even answer basic questions :s
I bought my GR9 roup from 80 designer store. They helped me with a few things after purchase and installation. Usually respond within 24 hours given the time difference.
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Ltwoo eGR coming out to about $380 shipped after coupon from ltwoo official store.
Actually pretty tempted right now.
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Ltwoo eGR coming out to about $380 shipped after coupon from ltwoo official store.
Actually pretty tempted right now.
Just noticed that! Same here. Was avoiding the ER9 deal but now it's getting hard to pass on.
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Could not resist the eGR offer during the current sales with a 40$ coupon...
Let's see how this works out...
BR Chris
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I have both ER9 and EGR in the cart. I like how EGR looks compared to ER9. Was planning to install it on VB GF002 which currently has Ultegra 8050 on it but then I realized I use that bike as endurance bike with 35c wheels and very light gravel thrown in where the current 11-34 cassette coupled to 46/36 chainrings work fine. May be I should just get the ER9 and also save a couple of bucks in the process.
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I have both ER9 and EGR in the cart. I like how EGR looks compared to ER9. Was planning to install it on VB GF002 which currently has Ultegra 8050 on it but then I realized I use that bike as endurance bike with 35c wheels and very light gravel thrown in where the current 11-34 cassette coupled to 46/36 chainrings work fine. May be I should just get the ER9 and also save a couple of bucks in the process.
I think LTwoo shot themselves in the foot with a max 46t limit with the RD. I'd rather just get a mechanical 12 speed 1x GRX 822 RD which gives a 51t cog capacity and is backwards compatible with 11 speed and probably 10 speed.
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I think LTwoo shot themselves in the foot with a max 46t limit with the RD. I'd rather just get a mechanical 12 speed 1x GRX 822 RD which gives a 51t cog capacity and is backwards compatible with 11 speed and probably 10 speed.
I think the chain was too short or RD B-screw set in too deep in Luke's video where he has problem shifting 50t cassette. It will *probably* shift 50t cassette with some smart play with B screw and chain length. Though I am hardly ever going to use 50t cassette as the jumps between last 2-3 cogs are just too much for any smooth shifting.
What I don't understand is why EGR is more expensive than ER9 considering it does not seem to have any better weatherproofing nor does it have FD.
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Could not resist the eGR offer during the current sales with a 40$ coupon...
Let's see how this works out...
BR Chris
What cassette/chain/chainring do you plan to have with it ?
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https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806450112754.html
Many thanks for the link! But there is only a version "without box battery" available. So this is worthless.
Alternatively, where can I buy such a battery in Europe and will the connectors be compatible?
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Many thanks for the link! But there is only a version "without box battery" available. So this is worthless.
Alternatively, where can I buy such a battery in Europe and will the connectors be compatible?
You'll need to buy only 2x 14500 button-top lithium batteries ( https://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/li-ion/14500-16340/xtar-14500-800mah-protected-1a.html for example ) and probably 2x CR2032 for shifters. The battery module itself is included in kit.
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Ahhh, nice! Didn't know that! I thought there would be a one piece battery pack included.
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Any ideas about the possibility to use Shimano BR-RX400/BR-RX600 in combination with this groupset? Why I'm asking this: Could save work and leave the breaking cables within the frame and don't have to bother with this.
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Any ideas about the possibility to use Shimano BR-RX400/BR-RX600 in combination with this groupset? Why I'm asking this: Could save work and leave the breaking cables within the frame and don't have to bother with this.
Should work without any issues
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I think I did a thinking mistake. The braking hose on the shifter side most probably won't be compatible btw GRX und eGR. So yes, not really a saving of effort then since I will have to use the cable delivered with eGR shifters and pull them trough the frame.
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I think I did a thinking mistake. The braking hose on the shifter side most probably won't be compatible btw GRX und eGR. So yes, not really a saving of effort then since I will have to use the cable delivered with eGR shifters and pull them trough the frame.
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3984.msg51717.html#msg51717
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Not more people trying this group? Saw there is a new 2024 edition.
Anyone know what changed?
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Not more people trying this group? Saw there is a new 2024 edition.
Anyone know what changed?
Lots of people using er9/erx on a different thread here, it's maybe the busiest thread in the last several weeks. 2 out of my 5 er9 died a few days ago for no reason, and dealing with getting replacements is a slow burn nightmare, so right now, i wouldn't recommend ltwoo electronic. i like the hydraulic brakes and havent tried their mechanical stuff.
I dont think there's been clear communication around what's new / different since the launch of the erx. even the water ingress point wasn't addressed. basically it is evident that we're beta testing the stuff, but it's labeled a retail product. So nobody knows what changes they re making in the background on a running basis, or it they batch the changes into new versions.
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Lots of people using er9/erx on a different thread here, it's maybe the busiest thread in the last several weeks. 2 out of my 5 er9 died a few days ago for no reason, and dealing with getting replacements is a slow burn nightmare, so right now, i wouldn't recommend ltwoo electronic. i like the hydraulic brakes and havent tried their mechanical stuff.
I dont think there's been clear communication around what's new / different since the launch of the erx. even the water ingress point wasn't addressed. basically it is evident that we're beta testing the stuff, but it's labeled a retail product. So nobody knows what changes they re making in the background on a running basis, or it they batch the changes into new versions.
Saw it there, remember you being very positive about the er9 when I ordered mine. The fact that they die without a reason is terrible. What reseller did you use?
Find the official store on ali bad in communicating. 80 designer store was a bit more expensive but atleast some kind of service there
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Nowhere near as many reviews of this group as ERx. Trace velo had some issues with his. Don't know if he's done a more recent update on it.
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Ltwoo eGR coming out to about $380 shipped after coupon from ltwoo official store.
Actually pretty tempted right now.
~$350 now :D but gonna pass. The recent surge of issues is enough to deter me.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806450112754.html
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Saw it there, remember you being very positive about the er9 when I ordered mine. The fact that they die without a reason is terrible. What reseller did you use?
Find the official store on ali bad in communicating. 80 designer store was a bit more expensive but atleast some kind of service there
Yeah i went from loving it to WTF is this?
I bought the groups via Winow, and i dont think Terry is a good professional. He seems like a nice guy, but he's at times elusive, slow, evasive, vague, it's extremely irritating. He clearly cares about himself, but he doesn't seem to care about our problems.
I since had a look at groupset prices in Europe and they're still insanely expensive, it infuriates me. I understand that SRAM prices are very attractive in the US, but that's not the case in Europe.
I kind of want half of the cycling industry to go bankrupt to clean everything up. A 10k bike was never worth 10k, let alone 15k. Groupsets shouldn't start at 1000 eur.
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I since had a look at groupset prices in Europe and they're still insanely expensive, it infuriates me. I understand that SRAM prices are very attractive in the US, but that's not the case in Europe.
SRAM prices aren't very attractive here in the USA as well, not to me at least. Nor Shimano's. On the contrary I was under the impression Shimano stuff is much cheaper in Europe. Cheaper, relatively. Nothing is as cheap as LTwoo or Sensah though.
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The reason i went for ltwoo was because of a crash where i had to replace an ultegra 8070 shifter. Hard to find them and prices at 300€ retail for just a shifter..
These prices are ridiculous.
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Hello, I just joined this forum to jump in on the discussion of the eGR. I ordered one and just installed it last night. Well, almost. Ran into an issue bleeding the brakes because I didn't have an appropriate nipple to plug my syringe into the caliper port. So, waiting on a new bleed kit to come in tomorrow with a selection of various sized nipples. Also, need to finalize how I'm routing the power cable, as of now it's just taped on the chain stay.
Either way, I'm disappointed to hear about the sudden influx of issues. I hope I got a newer one.
My hopes are high as my initial impression is quite good. Shifting is smooth and fast once I got it dialed in. I'm coming from a Microshift Advent X 1x10 setup where I was using a Microshift Sword 11-38 cassette on a "road" type wheelset and the stock boat anchor cassette on a gravel-esque wheelset.
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Either way, I'm disappointed to hear about the sudden influx of issues. I hope I got a newer one.
My hopes are high as my initial impression is quite good. Shifting is smooth and fast once I got it dialed in. I'm coming from a Microshift Advent X 1x10 setup where I was using a Microshift Sword 11-38 cassette on a "road" type wheelset and the stock boat anchor cassette on a gravel-esque wheelset.
I haven't heard anything bad about the EGR since it's newer. Your EGR RD should have a serial number on the cage. The first 6 numbers should be an indication of the batch. The problematic ER9 units seem to be from batch 250123. Perhaps EGR batch numbers correspond with the ER9/X or are completely different. Either way it'd be a good way to keep track for reference.
My ER9 unit is still working fine from batch 250123, so it's a bit hit-or-miss on why some RD units stop working.
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Not more people trying this group? Saw there is a new 2024 edition.
Anyone know what changed?
Building my first gravel right now. It's not yet complete, but at least it works with 10-50t Spedao cassette
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I've attached a picture to the post to clearly identify the screw I'm wondering about.
I quickly set my eGR up this weekend and did a good 35mi+ group ride on mostly roads, and all was good. I didn't pay super close attention to how this linkage was set, initially, because it all seemed to work.
After the ride, I was doing some cleanup maintenance to get my crank and chain line better sorted. When I put the chain back on, my chain seemed loose, like the derailleur didn't have enough take-up or the chain was too long. With that, the derailleur was all the way up and contacting my cassette, with the grinding noise just like in Trace Velo's video where his B-screw adjustment failed. That was the first place my mind went, but after pulling it all apart nothing was broken.
What I realized was that when I initially set everything up, that linkage was much further back than it would naturally rest. When that screw (circled in red) is tightened to the torque specified on the screw, the linage doesn't move and the B-screw adjustment doesn't really matter at all. It's like in Trace Velo's video where he uses a lock washer to prevent movement, except I have no lock washer. Simply tightening the screw locks the entire assembly in place. Somehow it had come loose while I was doing that bit of work and that's when I noticed an issue. For now, I simply rotated the linkage back like I had it originally and tightened everything back up to prevent the derailleur from contacting my cassette. Presumably, everything will continue to be fine as long as the screw doesn't work loose again.
My question is: Is that how this is supposed to work? When that screw is tightened, should that link rotate freely so that the B-screw adjustment can move the derailleur, or should it be locked in place like it appears to do on mine? I'm really a novice with it comes to derailleurs, so I'm not really sure what is more typical.
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Can someone help with the message above?
And did you also rode the groupset during wet conditions?
Hold up?
Klein Concet put the eRX into his shower (https://youtu.be/1Cmb-VGhjQI?si=xXkYhC2Na_N1pHDY) and it held up. Would wonder if the same holds for egr?
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I've been riding this week with it, not as many miles as I had hoped but a little over 60mi so far. I haven't taken it off-road, but I took a few trips to a parking garage and rode about 30+ times up and down. LOTS of rapid shifting and so far it's held up great. I'll be taking it on a century ride in a couple of weeks, so hopefully I don't end up stranded in the middle of it. I haven't put it through any water yet, but I'll get a bit more rough and rowdy with it off the road once I am done with my century ride.
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My question is: Is that how this is supposed to work? When that screw is tightened, should that link rotate freely so that the B-screw adjustment can move the derailleur, or should it be locked in place like it appears to do on mine? I'm really a novice with it comes to derailleurs, so I'm not really sure what is more typical.
I don't have any experience with eGR specifically but in general rear derailleurs should be able to pivot around that 'L-TWOO Drive Systems' screw, yes. In practical terms, this is useful when you want to remove your (rear) wheel but the cassette starts jamming against the derailleur; with a free pivot, you can push the derailleur back, allowing for a clear path for the wheel to drop down. This may not be an issue with your particular frame, however - I guess it's easy to test.
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I don't have any experience with eGR specifically but in general rear derailleurs should be able to pivot around that 'L-TWOO Drive Systems' screw, yes. In practical terms, this is useful when you want to remove your (rear) wheel but the cassette starts jamming against the derailleur; with a free pivot, you can push the derailleur back, allowing for a clear path for the wheel to drop down. This may not be an issue with your particular frame, however - I guess it's easy to test.
Thanks for your thoughts, that makes me feel a little better. I'm about to do a little maintenance at the end of the week in prep for a long ride I'm taking next weekend. I'll take one last look at it before I leave it alone for the time being.
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I’ve had mine for about a month and a half. Not a ton of miles, but I should start logging a lot of miles soon. Zero issues so far. Initially the groupset only worked when plugged in. I knew what it was right away, the 1st set of batteries I ordered were a hair too short and were not making a proper connection. Ordered a different set that had a taller “nub”. That is not the groupsets fault, it’s a common issue when using these types of rechargeable batteries.
I might order another set, but would like it in carbon. Although the price will be higher than the $350-$375 you can get the current groupset for.
Here are the ones that worked well, surprisingly they were the cheapest ones too
Svenirven 14500 Battery, 2 Pack... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVWF93HG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
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I’ve had mine for about a month and a half. Not a ton of miles, but I should start logging a lot of miles soon. Zero issues so far. Initially the groupset only worked when plugged in. I knew what it was right away, the 1st set of batteries I ordered were a hair too short and were not making a proper connection. Ordered a different set that had a taller “nub”. That is not the groupsets fault, it’s a common issue when using these types of rechargeable batteries.
I might order another set, but would like it in carbon. Although the price will be higher than the $350-$375 you can get the current groupset for.
Here are the ones that worked well, surprisingly they were the cheapest ones too
Svenirven 14500 Battery, 2 Pack... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVWF93HG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Pretty much my experience so far, as well. I'm coming up on about 2 weeks of it being up and running, at about 150mi. By the end of next week I'll have about 300-350 mi on it, but mostly pavement so nothing too rough. It's been excellent so far. I initially was worried about battery drain, because my first couple of rides the battery drained super quick. I think it may have been some kind of break-in or first-cycle issue with my cells rather than a derailleur issue. Rather than top-off on my first few rides I just let it continue running down until it registered just under 20% life and then I topped it off to 100%, that probably got me about 100mi or so (which was pretty poor, imo).
My last few rides, since then, it has seemed to drain remarkably slowly. After yesterday's 25mi ride, it didn't even budge enough to register a drop at all.
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Pretty much my experience so far, as well. I'm coming up on about 2 weeks of it being up and running, at about 150mi. By the end of next week I'll have about 300-350 mi on it, but mostly pavement so nothing too rough. It's been excellent so far. I initially was worried about battery drain, because my first couple of rides the battery drained super quick. I think it may have been some kind of break-in or first-cycle issue with my cells rather than a derailleur issue. Rather than top-off on my first few rides I just let it continue running down until it registered just under 20% life and then I topped it off to 100%, that probably got me about 100mi or so (which was pretty poor, imo).
My last few rides, since then, it has seemed to drain remarkably slowly. After yesterday's 25mi ride, it didn't even budge enough to register a drop at all.
Funny Same thing here. Initially when I saw the battery just drop rapidly I was thinking it would last 80-100 miles at that rate. Since the 1st charge it’s been holding up very well.
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I've been opening the app before and after each ride lately and taking screenshots as that's the easiest, most straightforward way for me to document shifts and battery usage. My last 2 rides totaled 65 miles and 1,167 shifts and the battery dropped from 100% to 91%. That ain't bad at all.
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Thanks a lot for reporting your experiences!
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Hello, I just joined this forum to jump in on the discussion of the eGR. I ordered one and just installed it last night. Well, almost. Ran into an issue bleeding the brakes because I didn't have an appropriate nipple to plug my syringe into the caliper port. So, waiting on a new bleed kit to come in tomorrow with a selection of various sized nipples. Also, need to finalize how I'm routing the power cable, as of now it's just taped on the chain stay.
Either way, I'm disappointed to hear about the sudden influx of issues. I hope I got a newer one.
My hopes are high as my initial impression is quite good. Shifting is smooth and fast once I got it dialed in. I'm coming from a Microshift Advent X 1x10 setup where I was using a Microshift Sword 11-38 cassette on a "road" type wheelset and the stock boat anchor cassette on a gravel-esque wheelset.
I'm wondering if you got the bleed kit sorted out and have any thoughts to share. I've got eGR set on the way. I'm used to doing deeper install research before installing but there is so little on it. So any tips or cautions are appreciated. (or pointers to a more appropriate thread)
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Good updates on eGR. Any water tests or washes as of yet for you guys running eGR?
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I'm wondering if you got the bleed kit sorted out and have any thoughts to share. I've got eGR set on the way. I'm used to doing deeper install research before installing but there is so little on it. So any tips or cautions are appreciated. (or pointers to a more appropriate thread)
Very easy to install imo. The usual pain to run bike lines if you’re internal, but then just a regular bleed procedure as if they’re shimano levers. Plug it in and begin to fine tune the shifting in the app. EZ. I didn’t have to do anything weird in my install to make anything work. Besides the 1st batteries not working.
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I'm wondering if you got the bleed kit sorted out and have any thoughts to share. I've got eGR set on the way. I'm used to doing deeper install research before installing but there is so little on it. So any tips or cautions are appreciated. (or pointers to a more appropriate thread)
Actually... I did have some minor issues. Mostly because I ordered the "no box / no battery" package, so I did not get Ltwoo's bleed kit. I ordered some supposedly Shimano compatible kit from Amazon, but it came with only one type of fitting and tube connector. Unfortunately, there was no way to get my syringe onto the Ltwoo caliper port. I had to order a different kit from Amazon that came with a variety of different fittings and doo-dads and, fortunately, one of them fit the port. If I could go back in time, I'd much rather have ordered the Ltwoo kit because it was cheap and would have been a little less headache. But, it was a relatively minor inconvenience. Plus, the delay let me re-evaluate how I had run everything, and I was able to take a little time to shorten one of my hoses a little for *perfect* fit and finish.
Also, while installing, I was completely convinced that they had left out a screw that I needed for my size caliper installation. I checked very thoroughly and was absolutely sure it was missing. I came up with a work-around solution and was about to write them an email so they could send me a replacement or at least give me the specifications so I could source locally, and the only reason I didn't send the email was because I resolved to do it once I finished for the night. Anyway... I found the missing screw PERFECTLY nestled and hidden inside some spacer or something. I mean, it was flawlessly hidden. So, I guess they did a great job packaging the hardware. If you order the "no box / no battery" package it surely looks like a mess of stuff just randomly shoved in a box with a bunch of packing foam, but they did have some order in the madness.
Good updates on eGR. Any water tests or washes as of yet for you guys running eGR?
I kinda *need* mine to work this upcoming weekend as I'm riding it in a big century ride event I'm going to. So, I've been baby-ing it and being very easy with it. I'm surely going to be a lot more adventurous and abusive after that.
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@amacal1: What kind of bleed kid did you buy? At the moment they only offer the version without box and without batteries on Aliexpress: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005006636427506.html
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Good updates on eGR. Any water tests or washes as of yet for you guys running eGR?
I am from China, and it's possible that I have access to information faster than others.
What I want to say is that although I haven't personally used the EGR kits, based on feedback from friends around me who have used it, the early versions of the EGR did not perform well in terms of waterproofing. All three of my friends experienced failures in the waterproofing performance of their EGR kits.
They obtained these early version kits either at the end of last year or the beginning of this year. I'm not sure if the recent updates to the EGR have completely resolved these issues.
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Hi @FabioZang,
many thanks for your feedback! Question is, when did they have updated the version in order to be more waterproof - if they did at all?
If they did, how to ensure to get delivered the updated version and not the previous one. I have reached out to Ltwoo via Emai, but didn't get a response. Via Aliexpress I didn't find a "chat/message button" to get in contact with the "official Ltwoo store" in order to ask them those questions.
You might have more luck when writing to them via email in your language? Could you give it a try?
Are there similar forum chats in China about this topic?
Many thanks, Dennis
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@amacal1: What kind of bleed kid did you buy? At the moment they only offer the version without box and without batteries on Aliexpress: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005006636427506.html
I think you can buy the Ltwoo bleed kit as a separate item on AliExpress.
On Amazon, I originally bought a "Borgen" brand kit, which there was nothing wrong with it other than the fact that it only had one kind of fitting and that fitting did not work with the Ltwoo caliper.
I then bought a "CYCOBYCO" brand kit that had a variety of fittings, one of which fit the Ltwoo caliper. This is not a full endorsement of that kit, per se. There seem to be many others that also come with a wide variety of fittings.
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My eGR kit just showed up and I'm getting ready to configure. I ran into a question:
Is there a way to configure the shifters so that one can use BOTH sides at the same time?
I found that the app lets me change whether to use the right OR the left shifters to control the RD but see no setting to use both. On a side note, I find it hilarious that the app insists that the other one will be controlling the front derailleur which doesn't exist today on the eGR AND can't be powered with the eGR battery pack (the second power port is blank)
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I was wonderung why both break leavers have shifter buttons anyway? Would only make sense if both buttons/leavers can be used for shifting the rear derailleur, true.
Are there 2 leavers for shifting on both sides or just one leaver?
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Hi @FabioZang,
many thanks for your feedback! Question is, when did they have updated the version in order to be more waterproof - if they did at all?
If they did, how to ensure to get delivered the updated version and not the previous one. I have reached out to Ltwoo via Emai, but didn't get a response. Via Aliexpress I didn't find a "chat/message button" to get in contact with the "official Ltwoo store" in order to ask them those questions.
You might have more luck when writing to them via email in your language? Could you give it a try?
Are there similar forum chats in China about this topic?
Many thanks, Dennis
I will try to ask them. Usually, I can contact them directly through platforms like Taobao or WeChat, without the need for emails. However, based on the feedback I received from secondary distributors in the past, the new versions of the EGR did not improve the waterproofing performance. In special cases, it is necessary to disassemble the rear derailleur and manually apply some waterproof sealant. But such an operation may result in the loss of warranty eligibility.
Based on the experiences of my friends, they had to wait until the rear derailleur got water inside and caused issues before contacting Ltwoo for repairs or part replacements (mainly due to water ingress in the rear derailleur). This process can be frustrating, and this issue may not necessarily occur in every kit. I am inclined to believe it could be a quality control problem. Moreover, purchasing Ltwoo from outside China would incur higher post-purchase costs, both in terms of money and time.
However, there have been some software improvements for the EGR, such as enhanced logic for situations like stationary shifting and accidental button presses. As for hardware improvements, there is currently no information available.
China does have similar forums, but we are not exactly like BBS forums. We are more like Reddit, with channels categorized based on discussion topics, and the discussions tend to be more basic. For more specialized discussions, we usually rely on WeChat group chats, which are more closed-off but allow for deeper conversations.
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My eGR kit just showed up and I'm getting ready to configure. I ran into a question:
Is there a way to configure the shifters so that one can use BOTH sides at the same time?
I found that the app lets me change whether to use the right OR the left shifters to control the RD but see no setting to use both. On a side note, I find it hilarious that the app insists that the other one will be controlling the front derailleur which doesn't exist today on the eGR AND can't be powered with the eGR battery pack (the second power port is blank)
Ltwoo's idea is to use the left-hand button to control the electronic dropper seatpost. This dropper seatpost is expected to be released in the second half of this year, along with the mountain electronic derailleur. As for the accompanying shifting logic issues, it is indeed a frustrating design choice, but it seems that there are no other options at the moment.
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Ltwoo's idea is to use the left-hand button to control the electronic dropper seatpost. This dropper seatpost is expected to be released in the second half of this year, along with the mountain electronic derailleur. As for the accompanying shifting logic issues, it is indeed a frustrating design choice, but it seems that there are no other options at the moment.
That's good info, and I'm sure many people would be interested in an electronic remote dropper post option. I think it would be neat if there were some compatibility between the eGR lineup and the eR9 lineup, so that an eR9 front derailleur could be paired with a eGR rear derailleur and still function.
Also, I don't know how open the protocols are, but it would be neat if those buttons could be used to control a bike computer (i.e. scroll through screens on a head unit). We have these 2 extra buttons just sitting there, sure would be nice if there were more things we could do with them.
... AND can't be powered with the eGR battery pack (the second power port is blank)
THIS is the single most confusing decision I've yet seen made for this system. I noticed the same thing when I installed my eGR, that the battery pack has a space for the second power port but that it was blanked off. WHY?!!! I can't imagine it saves them money, if anything it probably costs more in the long run to have to maintain two different part production, stock, etc. Maybe it was to prevent issues related to moisture or other things, but then why not a little rubber plug or something. Even if it wasn't an elegantly designed rubber plug, just some random bit of rubber shoved in the hole that was a PITA to remove later would be better than no port at all.
Assuming that their customers like their products and buy more of them, it sure would be nice to have an extra battery pack that could be used between the 2x systems and the 1x systems. I'm still wary of how long my eGR may last and wary of all the reports about failures in the eR9, but so far it's been great and the price was incredible. If that continues to be the case, I could see myself buying an eR9 for my road bike.
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I was wonderung why both break leavers have shifter buttons anyway? Would only make sense if both buttons/leavers can be used for shifting the rear derailleur, true.
Are there 2 leavers for shifting on both sides or just one leaver?
Both sides are set up for full control. Two paddles each. On one level, it kinda makes sense IF they are planning on adding a 2x gravel setup. Then it would be an easy add. But they only offer it 1x for now AND the battery case only has one port so you'd have to swap that out anyway. The battery case is surely a FAR cheaper component than the shifter.
I actually wrote to L-TWOO yesterday to ask. They confirmed that there is not currently any way to use both sides at once. The agent didn't say it was coming either but also said that IF it did they'd let me know :-)
Frankly, if they are going to ship the hardware that way, they should allow configuration of the buttons in the app. One option of dual control. But you could also set it up AXS style (up on one side down on the other)
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I will try to ask them. Usually, I can contact them directly through platforms like Taobao or WeChat, without the need for emails. However, based on the feedback I received from secondary distributors in the past, the new versions of the EGR did not improve the waterproofing performance. In special cases, it is necessary to disassemble the rear derailleur and manually apply some waterproof sealant. But such an operation may result in the loss of warranty eligibility.
Based on the experiences of my friends, they had to wait until the rear derailleur got water inside and caused issues before contacting Ltwoo for repairs or part replacements (mainly due to water ingress in the rear derailleur). This process can be frustrating, and this issue may not necessarily occur in every kit. I am inclined to believe it could be a quality control problem. Moreover, purchasing Ltwoo from outside China would incur higher post-purchase costs, both in terms of money and time.
However, there have been some software improvements for the EGR, such as enhanced logic for situations like stationary shifting and accidental button presses. As for hardware improvements, there is currently no information available.
China does have similar forums, but we are not exactly like BBS forums. We are more like Reddit, with channels categorized based on discussion topics, and the discussions tend to be more basic. For more specialized discussions, we usually rely on WeChat group chats, which are more closed-off but allow for deeper conversations.
Interesting (and unfortunate) news on the water resistance. Do we have any idea where the ingress is? I was planning on using dielectric grease in the ports to help ensure that isn't the ingress. But I wouldn't want to have to rip apart a new one to coat it with that or conformal coating.
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That's good info, and I'm sure many people would be interested in an electronic remote dropper post option. I think it would be neat if there were some compatibility between the eGR lineup and the eR9 lineup, so that an eR9 front derailleur could be paired with a eGR rear derailleur and still function.
Also, I don't know how open the protocols are, but it would be neat if those buttons could be used to control a bike computer (i.e. scroll through screens on a head unit). We have these 2 extra buttons just sitting there, sure would be nice if there were more things we could do with them.
THIS is the single most confusing decision I've yet seen made for this system. I noticed the same thing when I installed my eGR, that the battery pack has a space for the second power port but that it was blanked off. WHY?!!! I can't imagine it saves them money, if anything it probably costs more in the long run to have to maintain two different part production, stock, etc. Maybe it was to prevent issues related to moisture or other things, but then why not a little rubber plug or something. Even if it wasn't an elegantly designed rubber plug, just some random bit of rubber shoved in the hole that was a PITA to remove later would be better than no port at all.
Assuming that their customers like their products and buy more of them, it sure would be nice to have an extra battery pack that could be used between the 2x systems and the 1x systems. I'm still wary of how long my eGR may last and wary of all the reports about failures in the eR9, but so far it's been great and the price was incredible. If that continues to be the case, I could see myself buying an eR9 for my road bike.
Two good observations.
On the mix and match, I think it was in a China Cycling video on the Shanghai show where there was a claim of cross compatibility on all the e components. So that would make sense. I do find the dropper post thought interesting (and sensible) but not sure why you'd want two paddles for that unless they are going to make one that can be switch activated in both directions (someone has one of those with a pre-charge air tank allowing a certain number of activations on the trail)
As to the battery case, I had the same thought. It can't really be the economical decision, particularly when compared to a shifter with controls. There must be some reason but I can't figure it out. The only partly sensible idea was from my son who suggested that the way that end cap is built, the molding has the two outer rings in it. But the inner 'post' with the contacts comes from an inside plate that is molded with the wires. If that's true, it might be more sensible to use one of those parts with a single post and a blank to ensure sealing in the other spot. Then again, I'd rather have a second port as a backup for a few pennies more.
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The attachment contains the reply I received from Ltwoo's official support regarding the waterproof performance of the EGR. The main point stated in the response is that the waterproofing of the EGR has been improved compared to earlier versions (at least according to their official statement).
... Do we have any idea where the ingress is? ...
Unfortunately, I don't have the physical EGR item with me, and my friends are also unaware of the specific areas where potential gaps may exist. All repairs are handled by Ltwoo officially.
However, I have a suggestion that may not be fully matured. Perhaps applying some waterproof spray meant for outdoor clothing on the outer layer of the rear derailleur could be helpful?
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So, the installation gets serious and raises another question:
I was told by the seller that the brake calipers are post-mount compatible (only in fact which I'm not sure can be true). Conveniently my V1 Cutthroat frame/fork are post mount. But the brake caliper, adapters and bolt kit seem to be sized for and include M5 bolts. Post mount is M6... Any thoughts?
BTW, the RD went on and set up pretty easy. I was a dummy and started individually calibrating before doing the macro. Duh, the instructions say to do the macro on the 7th sprocket (6th on 11s) first. It's just that the app opened on the micro adjustment page and I forgot. So when I finally figured it out, I had to repeat the cycle.
No big deal. Just follow the directions and it's easy. It also shifts nicely in the stand even up to 50t. We'll see how it works 'under fire' on the road after I sort out the brakes.
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my er9 included all imaginable bolt lengths and adaptors for 140 to 160mm discs, something that costs extra and requires significant brain damage on Shimano. I think a very small fraction of the market cares about post mount (at least on the road setups), i wouldn't even want to pay for the shipping cost of bolts of another thread size. Shipping from China is a large portion of the cost of everything we ride in the West.
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my er9 included all imaginable bolt lengths and adaptors for 140 to 160mm discs, something that costs extra and requires significant brain damage on Shimano. I think a very small fraction of the market cares about post mount (at least on the road setups), i wouldn't even want to pay for the shipping cost of bolts of another thread size. Shipping from China is a large portion of the cost of everything we ride in the West.
Yes they do include a generous collection of hardware. Unfortunately a) I asked and was told they were post mount and b) the calipers are using an 70mm spacing that looks like post mount but uses M5 bolts like flat mount. Something I read tonight suggested that this is one flat mount standard (the ones on my road bike are much narrower at 30something mm) The included adapters are also 70mm rather than the post mount standard 74mm (seriously, who in the industry decided to invent a new flat standard 4mm different and using one size different bolts? ) I thought about drilling it out but there isn’t enough material in the right places. I also do not find anyone doing flat to post adapters for the 70mm flat variant.
And while you’re right about drop bar bikes being more likely to use flat mount, this is a gravel group set where post mount is not rare.
So, now I’m wondering what calipers might be compatible with the LTWOO levers. I know that early on they were bundling with other makers calipers, so I’m guessing the piston ratios are probably common. Maybe Shimano compatible since they went with mineral oil. If so, that would be great since apparently pretty much all Shimano calipers are compatible including across road and mountain groups.
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Yes they do include a generous collection of hardware. Unfortunately a) I asked and was told they were post mount and b) the calipers are using an 70mm spacing that looks like post mount but uses M5 bolts like flat mount. Something I read tonight suggested that this is one flat mount standard (the ones on my road bike are much narrower at 30something mm) The included adapters are also 70mm rather than the post mount standard 74mm (seriously, who in the industry decided to invent a new flat standard 4mm different and using one size different bolts? ) I thought about drilling it out but there isn’t enough material in the right places. I also do not find anyone doing flat to post adapters for the 70mm flat variant.
And while you’re right about drop bar bikes being more likely to use flat mount, this is a gravel group set where post mount is not rare.
So, now I’m wondering what calipers might be compatible with the LTWOO levers. I know that early on they were bundling with other makers calipers, so I’m guessing the piston ratios are probably common. Maybe Shimano compatible since they went with mineral oil. If so, that would be great since apparently pretty much all Shimano calipers are compatible including across road and mountain groups.
Not sure about Ltwoo's electronic groupsets but I am running a GRX400 front caliper with my Ltwoo GRT groupset since the mounting brackets for their caliper were not compatible with my fork.
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...... a) I asked and was told they were post mount and b) the calipers are using an 70mm spacing that looks like post mount but uses M5 bolts like flat mount. ......
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So, now I’m wondering what calipers might be compatible with the LTWOO levers. ......
What I want to say is that Ltwoo does not adhere to any known standards, whether it's flat mount or post mount. Ltwoo has designed its own specification and provides a bracket with the kit to install it on most flat mount frames. Therefore, you will find that the included screws are M5 size, not M6. Additionally, this Ltwoo-specific specification was not initially designed to accommodate post mount frames, meaning it cannot be installed on any post mount frame.
As for the second question, it is actually easily solvable. Any Shimano hydraulic disc brake caliper compatible with mineral oil systems can be used with Ltwoo's control lever, including but not limited to models like MT200, M6100, R7170, GRX400, and so on.
You just need to ensure that the syringe, olive head, and hose are compatible. I recommend using BH90 components across the board because BH90 hoses can be directly installed on all BH59 compatible components. As long as you ensure proper hose installation, you don't have to worry about any compatibility issues.
I have paired my GR9 control lever with the UR300 flat mount caliper using BH90 hose, syringe, and olive head, and the braking performance and feel are excellent. I have been using it smoothly for nearly 5,000km without any issues of brake fluid leakage or loss of braking power. So, feel free to boldly pair them together.
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So, now I’m wondering what calipers might be compatible with the LTWOO levers. I know that early on they were bundling with other makers calipers, so I’m guessing the piston ratios are probably common. Maybe Shimano compatible since they went with mineral oil. If so, that would be great since apparently pretty much all Shimano calipers are compatible including across road and mountain groups.
Basically any Shimano caliper should work - pick up a set of their basic MTB ones for your post mount fork.
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What I want to say is that Ltwoo does not adhere to any known standards, whether it's flat mount or post mount. Ltwoo has designed its own specification and provides a bracket with the kit to install it on most flat mount frames. Therefore, you will find that the included screws are M5 size, not M6. Additionally, this Ltwoo-specific specification was not initially designed to accommodate post mount frames, meaning it cannot be installed on any post mount frame.
As for the second question, it is actually easily solvable. Any Shimano hydraulic disc brake caliper compatible with mineral oil systems can be used with Ltwoo's control lever, including but not limited to models like MT200, M6100, R7170, GRX400, and so on.
You just need to ensure that the syringe, olive head, and hose are compatible. I recommend using BH90 components across the board because BH90 hoses can be directly installed on all BH59 compatible components. As long as you ensure proper hose installation, you don't have to worry about any compatibility issues.
I have paired my GR9 control lever with the UR300 flat mount caliper using BH90 hose, syringe, and olive head, and the braking performance and feel are excellent. I have been using it smoothly for nearly 5,000km without any issues of brake fluid leakage or loss of braking power. So, feel free to boldly pair them together.
Thank you so much. I came to that conclusion about the L-TWOO mount being oddball and none of the plates compatible with post mount. A shame the seller specifically told me that it was post mount only. I'm hoping that was a language issue not bad info. (I will be telling them)
Also great info on confirming compatibility. I found a pair of post-mount RS785 calipers that will mount without an adapter nearby for cheap so that should work. The BH90 recommendation is also quite helpful. The Shimano spec sheets seem to indicate both BH59 in some configs and BH90 in others and who knows what's best with the LTWOO levers. :) So BH90 it is. I've heard the responsiveness is generally a bit better with 90s regardless of the design spec in Shimanoland anyway. Just have to wait for hose since none of my local shops have it in stock. (Who'd have thought the calipers would be easier than the hose?)
Thank you to the others on this thread for also and convincingly confirming the applicability of Shimano calipers. I'll be back, hopefully with a success story and tips if all goes well.
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I had a problem getting the ER9 LTwoo calipers+140mm adapter plate to line-up properly using 140mm rotors on the rear. I tried it on 2 different framesets and both of them would not line-up properly. The strange part is that I had no issues running 160mm rotors with the Ltwoo calipers+adapter plate. I ended up switching over to ZRace XG calipers which required no adapter plate. I literally just unscrewed the Ltwoo calipers and screwed in the Zrace calipers, plug-n-play style. They work well enough with no issues on long descents.
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I had a problem getting the ER9 LTwoo calipers+140mm adapter plate to line-up properly using 140mm rotors on the rear. I tried it on 2 different framesets and both of them would not line-up properly. The strange part is that I had no issues running 160mm rotors with the Ltwoo calipers+adapter plate. I ended up switching over to ZRace XG calipers which required no adapter plate. I literally just unscrewed the Ltwoo calipers and screwed in the Zrace calipers, plug-n-play style. They work well enough with no issues on long descents.
I have to say that I strongly discourage the use of this disc rotor. It completely neglects mechanical simulation and the bracket itself is prone to fracture. Furthermore, the pattern design is a mess, with hollow patterns distributed unevenly on several concentric circles. As a result, the friction rate of the entire disc rotor in the radial direction cannot achieve consistency, leading to the formation of grooves on your brake pads... It's a design that leaves me speechless.
The issues mentioned above are not exaggerated claims but rather highly probable events that have occurred multiple times on Chinese forums. I don't want anyone else to become a victim of this disc rotor.
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I have to say that I strongly discourage the use of this disc rotor. It completely neglects mechanical simulation and the bracket itself is prone to fracture. Furthermore, the pattern design is a mess, with hollow patterns distributed unevenly on several concentric circles. As a result, the friction rate of the entire disc rotor in the radial direction cannot achieve consistency, leading to the formation of grooves on your brake pads... It's a design that leaves me speechless.
The issues mentioned above are not exaggerated claims but rather highly probable events that have occurred multiple times on Chinese forums. I don't want anyone else to become a victim of this disc rotor.
I'll just flip the pads around to even them out. I rotate my bikes every other ride, so I'm not too worried!
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I have to say that I strongly discourage the use of this disc rotor. It completely neglects mechanical simulation and the bracket itself is prone to fracture. Furthermore, the pattern design is a mess, with hollow patterns distributed unevenly on several concentric circles. As a result, the friction rate of the entire disc rotor in the radial direction cannot achieve consistency, leading to the formation of grooves on your brake pads... It's a design that leaves me speechless.
Lol those holes are the most retarded pattern imaginable, it's almost funny. imagine the donkey who came up with the design.
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Lol those holes are the most retarded pattern imaginable, it's almost funny. imagine the donkey who came up with the design.
They work fine! I double checked my gravel bike brake pads which does long descents on dirt trails and there are no deep track lines on the pads. My 2x160mm rotors are 1.6mm thick and feel quite sturdy. For someone to toast their rotors and dig tracks into their brake pads suggest to me they weighed like 130kg and had zero clue how to feather and modulate front/rear braking! There's a reason they have bigger rotors for bigger riders!
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I found a pair of post-mount RS785 calipers that will mount without an adapter nearby for cheap so that should work.
Ha! I went through almost the exact same process as you did (head scratching, careful measuring, thoughts of drilling) a few months ago and ended up with an RS785 caliper as well (for some reason, my bike has one post mount and one flat mount). So far, the caliper is working well (as in, I haven't died yet). For the record, I am using eR9 and used a BH59 barb.
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They work fine! I double checked my gravel bike brake pads which does long descents on dirt trails and there are no deep track lines on the pads. My 2x160mm rotors are 1.6mm thick and feel quite sturdy. For someone to toast their rotors and dig tracks into their brake pads suggest to me they weighed like 130kg and had zero clue how to feather and modulate front/rear braking! There's a reason they have bigger rotors for bigger riders!
A bad design is a bad design though. Glad it's working for you, but as a fat ass myself, i dont want half of my rotor surface to be air.
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well, i think LTWOO tries not to hurt any shimano patents with this? i think paying for flatmount license would have been a good thing, i suppose shimano was not up to this..
We wil see, if ltwoo withstands a closer look of patent lawers
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Used my eGR for the Cheaha Challenge in Alabama this weekend. 100mi with lots of shifting because it was 9300ft of climbing. Shifted 2,323 times and spent an embarrassing number of hours on the bike (first time doing a century AND first time doing anything even remotely close to that much climbing), but the battery dropped 27% (from 100% to 73%). I'm officially no longer worried about battery life of this setup. Now to throw some real gravel riding at it, since this was all road riding...
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Interesting (and unfortunate) news on the water resistance. Do we have any idea where the ingress is? I was planning on using dielectric grease in the ports to help ensure that isn't the ingress. But I wouldn't want to have to rip apart a new one to coat it with that or conformal coating.
Anyone has an idea about how to solve the potential water ingrease ourselfes?
Disassembeling the RD seems to be not that difficult:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32UDzOrqK2I (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32UDzOrqK2I) - see from minute 8.
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Anyone has an idea about how to solve the potential water ingrease ourselfes?
people have had success using liquid electrical tape around the RD cable plug. i bought a bottle myself but i don't have a thingy precise enough to squeeze out the stuff with any precision, so i'm not sure how to seal it efficiently. the stuff is sticky and dries super fast so it's not forgiving at all.
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people have had success using liquid electrical tape around the RD cable plug. i bought a bottle myself but i don't have a thingy precise enough to squeeze out the stuff with any precision, so i'm not sure how to seal it efficiently. the stuff is sticky and dries super fast so it's not forgiving at all.
I used liberal amounts of rubber cement on the battery cables. It's a non-permanent adhesive seal that's easy to rub off. I then put dielectric grease on as a second protective layer. I haven't rode the bike in the rain, but it's been adequate against random water puddles and other wet areas. The only issue is that the dielectric grease attracts a bunch dust/debris. I'm thinking, maybe using rubber cement and then applying heat shrink plastic might be a cleaner solution.
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Did you apply it from the outside or inside? In the video from Luke you can see it also from the inside and he was saying that the cable plug got "inpoxied" in. So you aim to have a additional layer of holding water outside that might get inside the housing via the cable plug?
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I only applied the rubber cement on the outside, but it dries and solidifies around the plug. After that I apply the dielectric grease as a secondary layer. I didn't like the idea of just using dielectric grease by itself since it's easy to take off. I figure the rubber cement should ward off most moisture, while the dielectric grease would be like frosting on a cake.
I got the idea because I had a leaky water sprinkler at my house and I sealed it with rubber cement. It actually did a very good job fixing the problem.
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Could you share photos of the relevant area of the RD and a link with the things you've applied?
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Could you share photos of the relevant area of the RD and a link with the things you've applied?
It's nothing fancy. I just used Elmer's rubber cement glue with a brush that I coated around the battery cable. Plus a $2 USD packet of dielectric grease from the auto store that I applied with a toothpick. It just looks like gunk around the cable, I'm not sure there's anything worth looking at.
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Does anybody have a direct contact to ltwoo sales?
I am being ghosted by them(Salesperson Luke, i do not need his contact), because i want a solution regarding quality issues?
Any help appreciated...
If anybody is interested in er9, brand new..i am willing to sell them cheap, germany or europe preferred..
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Does anybody have a direct contact to ltwoo sales?
I am being ghosted by them(Salesperson Luke, i do not need his contact), because i want a solution regarding quality issues?
Any help appreciated...
If anybody is interested in er9, brand new..i am willing to sell them cheap, germany or europe preferred..
Hi, i have a guy there via wechat. Idk where he works within ltwoo, it's a contact via a friend. He's been largely useless. For my warranty shenanigans, i've been going through the guy who sold me the groups, as per what ltwoo says on their website.
DM me if you have wechat, in which case i can probably share his contact.
My wechat skills are very limited.
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Has anyone considered building or has built a 1x road or light gravel bike (like 32c tires) using the eGR? It might be fun to build an lightweight climbing frame with the groupset.
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Has anyone considered building or has built a 1x road or light gravel bike (like 32c tires) using the eGR? It might be fun to build an lightweight climbing frame with the groupset.
I did that, sorta. I put it in my gravel bike, but use it more on the road than on gravel and keep a wheelset dedicated to riding on the road with 32c GP5000 road tires. Frankly, it's just a stopgap until I build up a dedicated road bike and then this will likely be my dedicated gravel bike. I went with the eGR because it will fit nicely for that purpose, eventually, and right now was an easy, straightforward conversion.
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Ok, I said I'd be back with some info once I got it built. It's preliminary as I only have one ride on it so far, but you can read it here
https://trbike.blogspot.com/2024/05/ltwoo-egr-results-writeup.html
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Ok, I said I'd be back with some info once I got it built. It's preliminary as I only have one ride on it so far, but you can read it here
https://trbike.blogspot.com/2024/05/ltwoo-egr-results-writeup.html
What size chainring were you using with the 10-50t? Did you do any preventative measures against water ingress?
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What size chainring were you using with the 10-50t? Did you do any preventative measures against water ingress?
I’ve been running a 32 but had previously tried 34 and 30 in the previous setup. All worked but the 32 was the “Goldilocks” size for me.
I did use dialectric grease on the connectors. I’d didn’t see any other obvious places to protect.
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Ok, I said I'd be back with some info once I got it built. It's preliminary as I only have one ride on it so far, but you can read it here
https://trbike.blogspot.com/2024/05/ltwoo-egr-results-writeup.html
Hi Thanks for this info, it's very helpful! it's been a couple of months now, hows it all going? have you had any other issues?
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The thread may be that old, but my experience is fresher than that ;) I've had it out for another ride now. So far so good. I think I'm hearing slight noise sometimes on some gears like it may not be aligned correctly. So I might to go micro adjust better or I might go back to zero and do it per instructions (I micro adjusted first like an idiot). But functionally it's good. It's hard to directly compare the 'feel' to my AXS bike because that one is a 2x with a road cassette so each click is a smaller, smoother change. On the giant 1x cassette, some steps are a bit rougher by their nature. But I think it's pretty comparable. And definitely more responsive and reliable shifts than the modified, cable-actuated Force 1 on there before. I have no hesitation clicking up or down one to 'feel' right where there was enough faffing before I often just didn't.
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You're right I got confused about the thread and when you put it together. All good info anyway. I ordered the EGR today through Aliexpress, really excited to get it. I'm curious to know if you've done a garden hose test on the RD with your Die-Electric sealer.
I'll share my experiences once I've put it together
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;D, yeah no. Not going to INTENTIONALLY antagonize it :-). I'll leave that to the people who got free samples. (Hey LTWOO, I'm game to test, hint hint)
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My right shifter (i.e. the only one I use) is starting to have a minor issue with the lower shift paddle "sticking" a little after each shift. It has yet to cause any issues with shifting, but I can feel that it doesn't fully return to position after I press it for a shift. It's not a real issue (yet) but the OCD parts of my brain don't like it when my finger pulls back from the button and the paddle doesn't come with it and isn't in the exact same spot when I go to press for the next shift. I did a long ride in some mild rain the other day and, mid-ride, it quickly went from happening occasionally to happening after every shift.
I haven't really taken the time to carefully diagnose where the sticking is occurring and look for any remedies, but I'll take any thoughts from others that may have noticed the same thing.
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My right shifter (i.e. the only one I use) is starting to have a minor issue with the lower shift paddle "sticking" a little after each shift. It has yet to cause any issues with shifting, but I can feel that it doesn't fully return to position after I press it for a shift. It's not a real issue (yet) but the OCD parts of my brain don't like it when my finger pulls back from the button and the paddle doesn't come with it and isn't in the exact same spot when I go to press for the next shift. I did a long ride in some mild rain the other day and, mid-ride, it quickly went from happening occasionally to happening after every shift.
I haven't really taken the time to carefully diagnose where the sticking is occurring and look for any remedies, but I'll take any thoughts from others that may have noticed the same thing.
on YT Trace Velo made a video where the issue he had with his paddle came from 1 of the 2 springs being misplaced. Have a look, it may be the same issue. Either on erx on egr.
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on YT Trace Velo made a video where the issue he had with his paddle came from 1 of the 2 springs being misplaced. Have a look, it may be the same issue. Either on erx on egr.
I think I had seen that video a while back, but don't remember all the details. I'll have to rewatch it. I didn't think it was anything like that, though, because it was functioning normally for the first few hundred miles and has slowly progressed. I'll check out the video again. Thanks.
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Modified my commuter gravel bike from Sensah SRX to Ltwoo eGR and so far quite happy after about 150km....
Gearing is currently 11Speed 42x 11-46 - I have a 12 speed cassette and chain ready to be installed.
(https://i.ibb.co/f1nsr79/IMG-2821.jpg) (https://ibb.co/X23qFTD)[/img]
Some have asked about water proofing, I went with electrical heat shrink tubing on the RD. I used an approx. 8mm shrink tube so it slides about 2mm on the connector port of the RD:
(https://i.ibb.co/ZJwvL1j/IMG-2818.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7zTBYNf)
And this is how it looks connected with the heat shrink tube in place:
(https://i.ibb.co/CBpTXb9/IMG-2820.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dBsz3Pp)
In case you wonder, could not get the cable through the chain stay since the connector is too long and stiff. Tried from both sides and finally gave up.
The routing tool with 5mm diameter passes in both directions but the stiff cable connector with the same diameter gets stuck and will not move..... I guess you can't always win :-X
BR Chris
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What firmware is everyone's unit currently on?
Mine is currently at v1.0.1 and has been ever since I received it. Has anyone received any firmware updates?
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In case you wonder, could not get the cable through the chain stay since the connector is too long and stiff. Tried from both sides and finally gave up.
The routing tool with 5mm diameter passes in both directions but the stiff cable connector with the same diameter gets stuck and will not move..... I guess you can't always win :-X
I had the same issue with my ER9 installation. I couldn't get the battery cable through the chain stay. I ended up having to route the RD cable externally. On top of that, my frame used cable tension for the shift cable access port underneath the BB. So I had to hot glue the cover to the frame and use a zip tie to hold it in place if the glue fails.
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What firmware is everyone's unit currently on?
Mine is currently at v1.0.1 and has been ever since I received it. Has anyone received any firmware updates?
Same here. I'm hoping that is a sign of stability not...
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Same here. I'm hoping that is a sign of stability not...
Yes, same here. Frankly, I've got no issues that I think need to be addressed via firmware. It would be nice if they found something neat to do with those extra 2 buttons on the left brifter (maybe some novel shifting modes, or maybe a way to do data screen stuff on a gps unit, etc).
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Yes, same here. Frankly, I've got no issues that I think need to be addressed via firmware. It would be nice if they found something neat to do with those extra 2 buttons on the left brifter (maybe some novel shifting modes, or maybe a way to do data screen stuff on a gps unit, etc).
Yeah, I want them to let use use the left side buttons. Ideally assign at will. But I see no reason not to simply allow both sides to be live. Personally, I'd like to be able to set them 'SRAM style' (up on one side, down on the other). I got feedback from LTWOO suggesting that they might do something. But no commitment.
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Also going to write them about this topic! As more people might request this feature, chances will maybe increase that they implement it.
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..................
In case you wonder, could not get the cable through the chain stay since the connector is too long and stiff. Tried from both sides and finally gave up.
The routing tool with 5mm diameter passes in both directions but the stiff cable connector with the same diameter gets stuck and will not move..... I guess you can't always win :-X
BR Chris
Hi @ChrisB,
many thanks for the idea with the heat shrink tube. Might work!
About the cable connector and about its stiffness and how long it is. Where did it got stuck? Near the RD in my frame I have this black piece where the RD-cable has to fit through. 2.8mm diameter on one and 6mm on the other side. I could possibly widen the 2.8mm hole to e.g. 5mm. How much is the diameter of the cable on the thickest part?
Kind regards, Dennis
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Hello Dennis
In my case the cable got stuck way inside the frame, there may be some uneven surface in the most narrow part of the chainstay...
If the current solution bugs me enough I may have another go at routing the cable, but for the moment I will ride the bike as is. ;-)
BR Chris
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Also going to write them about this topic! As more people might request this feature, chances will maybe increase that they implement it.
Did you get a conversation going? Having the left shifter paddles redundant is quite annoying (I mean at best, it's a waste of good electronics and extra weight!)
Ideal world I would have it SRAM style, with the upper buttons used to change bike computer page.
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Yes, Luke wrote me:
"Thanks for reaching out, we will evaluate your advice and see if it's workable or not."
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It'd be cool if you could use the shifters to scroll through your phone music playlist!
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It'd be cool if you could use the shifters to scroll through your phone music playlist!
That wouldn't exactly by my first voice for a feature, but literally anything is better than nothing.
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Took my e-gr out for its first run yesterday. A proper UK gravel route with a bit of everything. I'm running a 48t up front (it's a bit big) and 11-50 on the back, which is out of spec. I needed to run the b-screw all the way in, and very careful manage the limit screw to not throw the chain. Once dialled in, it shifts incredibly smoothly - better than my red AXS on my road bike, truly. Sometimes it shifted so quietly I wasn't certain it had!
As others have mentioned the left lever is completely wasted. It can't be used for anything. That would be my number 1 update request.
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Took my e-gr out for its first run yesterday. A proper UK gravel route with a bit of everything. I'm running a 48t up front (it's a bit big) and 11-50 on the back, which is out of spec. I needed to run the b-screw all the way in, and very careful manage the limit screw to not throw the chain. Once dialled in, it shifts incredibly smoothly - better than my red AXS on my road bike, truly. Sometimes it shifted so quietly I wasn't certain it had!
As others have mentioned the left lever is completely wasted. It can't be used for anything. That would be my number 1 update request.
I'm curious what bike/frame you're running it on? I have a theory that the amount of b-screw needed to use it out of spec with a 50t varies a bit. On my V1 Cutthroat, it didn't require full screw to do the job. The only 'issue' I found in operation is that the vertical motion while moving in the last (biggest) cogs is a VERY tight fit. Originally I had the speed setting to high and it bound up a bit on continuous shift as it was traveling faster than it could self-adjust. I don't happen to use continuous shift much (if at all, old habits die hard) so not a big deal. And I also changed the continuous speed to slow as insurance and don't find normal shifting degraded at all. (no, I haven't done a measured test)
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I'm using it on a Ribble c-gr. I find that having the b-screw all the way in gives some security without affecting the quality of shifts elsewhere on the cassette at all.
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I have my 2017 Giant TCX switched over from R8000 Ultegra with the clutched RX800 RD to the eGR group. My cranks are GXP so running 42t paired with a Sunshine 12s 11-46 and a SRAM NX Eagle 12s chain (for now until the KMC x12 chains arrive). I originally purchased 12s Shimano chains but the inner width is too tight for the SRAM narrow wide chainring. The chainring is 11s but works fine with the 12 chain.
It's all setup and dialed in nicely. I have R8070 Di2 on my Madone and the shifting is as precise IMO.
I did use some 8 mm heat shrink tube to cover the cable connector to help avoid water ingress. If using a heat gun be cautious, the cable itself can easily overheat and get soft.
The point I wanted to let everyone know is that I would suggest checking the 3 T10 screws that face towards the floor. During my setup one fell to the floor. I added some blue thread locker and snugged all three. Unsure of a torque spec but the seems like they would strip threads easy so take it easy if you do this.
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...I would suggest checking the 3 T10 screws that face towards the floor. During my setup one fell to the floor. I added some blue thread locker and snugged all three. Unsure of a torque spec but the seems like they would strip threads easy so take it easy if you do this.
Andrew, can you clarify which screws you're referring to? (picture maybe?)
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See attached for screws to check.
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See attached for screws to check.
Thank you!
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Can anyone recommend a good ali 1x crankset that would marry well with the eGR groupset?
Also - I've read in this thread about replacing the calipers with something like the ZRACE XG flat mounts. Is this necessary or will the adaptors that come with it suit a flat mount gravel frame?
Thanks!
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Can anyone recommend a good ali 1x crankset that would marry well with the eGR groupset?
Also - I've read in this thread about replacing the calipers with something like the ZRACE XG flat mounts. Is this necessary or will the adaptors that come with it suit a flat mount gravel frame?
Thanks!
The calipers WITH PROVIDED ADAPTERS should fit flat mount. I cannot confirm 100% as I'd been told they'd fit my post mount (they do not). But they look right for flat mount. It's worth noting that the caliper itself does not and fits no standard I know of (room for things I've missed), but the adapter is provided to make work.
I have more detail here: https://trbike.blogspot.com/2024/05/ltwoo-egr-results-writeup.html
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The calipers WITH PROVIDED ADAPTERS should fit flat mount. I cannot confirm 100% as I'd been told they'd fit my post mount (they do not). But they look right for flat mount. It's worth noting that the caliper itself does not and fits no standard I know of (room for things I've missed), but the adapter is provided to make work.
I have more detail here: https://trbike.blogspot.com/2024/05/ltwoo-egr-results-writeup.html
Super useful, thank you. I've bookmarked your writeup if I decide to go down the eGR route :)
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Can anyone recommend a good ali 1x crankset that would marry well with the eGR groupset?
Also - I've read in this thread about replacing the calipers with something like the ZRACE XG flat mounts. Is this necessary or will the adaptors that come with it suit a flat mount gravel frame?
Thanks!
Not quite aliexpress, but I've gone with an alugear chainring and a magene p505 base powermeter crankset. They'll all work ultimately, seeing as the groupset doesn't matter for 1x.
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Can anyone recommend a good ali 1x crankset that would marry well with the eGR groupset?
Also - I've read in this thread about replacing the calipers with something like the ZRACE XG flat mounts. Is this necessary or will the adaptors that come with it suit a flat mount gravel frame?
Thanks!
Are you wanting fancy bling or simple and practical.
Senicx cranks have a good reputation for durability and quality.
There's a bunch of new carbon cranks coming out as well.
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Are you wanting fancy bling or simple and practical.
Senicx cranks have a good reputation for durability and quality.
There's a bunch of new carbon cranks coming out as well.
Simple and practical. I had my eyes on the Senicx, so I think that's the way I'll go. I may upgrade to the Magene 505 down the line, but this will suffice in the interim.
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Simple and practical. I had my eyes on the Senicx, so I think that's the way I'll go. I may upgrade to the Magene 505 down the line, but this will suffice in the interim.
This is exactly what I did. Started with the senicx, then grabbed the magene when we had some good coupon deals. Its been pretty great for me.
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Can anyone recommend a good ali 1x crankset that would marry well with the eGR groupset?
Also - I've read in this thread about replacing the calipers with something like the ZRACE XG flat mounts. Is this necessary or will the adaptors that come with it suit a flat mount gravel frame?
Thanks!
I use senixc crank set with 44t chainring from them and it is super good. Really top quality.
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Any one have a chance to try an AXS cassette? AKA an XPLR or 10-36? I’m curious if these can be micro adjusted to shift one well. With a flattop chain and SRAM X Sync chainring.
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Can anyone recommend a good ali 1x crankset that would marry well with the eGR groupset?
Also - I've read in this thread about replacing the calipers with something like the ZRACE XG flat mounts. Is this necessary or will the adaptors that come with it suit a flat mount gravel frame?
Thanks!
I got the 40t Evosid set (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806578128182.html) - use the road set of the same make on my partners bike and it feels pretty quality. We'll see once i put some more miles on it.
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Any one have a chance to try an AXS cassette? AKA an XPLR or 10-36? I’m curious if these can be micro adjusted to shift one well. With a flattop chain and SRAM X Sync chainring.
AFAIK there is no spacing difference on the AXS/XLPLR cassettes should it shouldn't be an issue. I believe there are some tweaks to the sprocket shapes to map to the non-standard chains used there so chain selection might matter.
Keep in mind that the eGR derailleur allows for microtuning for EACH sprocket unlike SRAM. So even if there is an oddity it should be solvable.
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Has anyone tried the rear egr mech with the erx grifters to see if they pair? I want greater capacity in a 2x system
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Has anyone tried the rear egr mech with the erx grifters to see if they pair? I want greater capacity in a 2x system
I have not tried myself, but I saw on some show video recently that LTWOO claims cross-compatibility with all 'e' systems of theirs. I have had good luck getting response from LTWOO 'sales' email (sales @ ltwoo . com), you might just ask directly
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My e-gr is dead. Moved it between bikes and can't get anything to work / light up. Any ideas? Not charging either. I have assumed maybe the cable is damaged and ordered a new one. Any other ideas?
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My e-gr is dead. Moved it between bikes and can't get anything to work / light up. Any ideas? Not charging either. I have assumed maybe the cable is damaged and ordered a new one. Any other ideas?
Checking the battery cable is the only thing I could think of. Or maybe the battery connection itself, or the internal battery contacts.
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I think it's fried. I'm in contact with LTWOO support.
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Ive installed an eGR group on my gravelbike recently.
Must say Im impressed with the shifter ergonomics, they are very small in volume and feel similar to my 11sp etap rim brake shifters, except for the bump that houses the hydraulics.
I have some propper rechargeble batteries in there and thus far its still going on its first charge. Running 12spd with an 11-42 cassette and shifting is crisp and fast.
I did notice that the RD screws were coming loose, as it was mentioned in here earlier, but I just tightened them up again.
I did not do anything special with the cabling and have done some wet rides without a problem. I have found, however, that with my rh shifter, the buttons get stuck sometimes, but not in a shifting position. I do wish they would open the software to enable button setup, as I would much rather set it up to shift in the AXS style.
The brakes work astonishingly well, very light brake lever feel and definate bite point.
Will be testing it soon on some rougher gravel, but till now Im very impressed.
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I've been in contact with LTWOO and they believe the electronics are fried from water ingress. Really not great, hoping they have resolved this with newer ones. They are sending a new RD so I cannot complain about the customer service (although it may take a while, as they have to get it from the factory to customer service department first. They don't have them to hand for replacements).
EDIT: LTWOO have now stated this is fixed in newer versions.
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I've been in contact with LTWOO and they believe the electronics are fried from water ingress. Really not great, hoping they have resolved this with newer ones. They are sending a new RD so I cannot complain about the customer service (although it may take a while, as they have to get it from the factory to customer service department first. They don't have them to hand for replacements).
EDIT: LTWOO have now stated this is fixed in newer versions.
What was your method of contact? Just in case something similar happens to someone in this thread.
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What was your method of contact? Just in case something similar happens to someone in this thread.
Aliexpress (where it was purchased, from the official store).
I notice on their website they now state you must contact the place of purchase for support.
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I've been in contact with LTWOO and they believe the electronics are fried from water ingress. Really not great, hoping they have resolved this with newer ones. They are sending a new RD so I cannot complain about the customer service (although it may take a while, as they have to get it from the factory to customer service department first. They don't have them to hand for replacements).
EDIT: LTWOO have now stated this is fixed in newer versions.
Do you know when yours was made (or purchased)?
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It was purchased on March 12th. I'm not sure when in it was made but was from official store so hopefully wasn't old stock, but you never know.
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It was purchased on March 12th. I'm not sure when in it was made but was from official store so hopefully wasn't old stock, but you never know.
Honestly, that's a little worrying (as a fellow owner purchased in May). I'd thought they might have purged that issue much earlier in the year based on the threads online.
For whatever it might be worth, I've been allowing a hose (not a pressure washer) to hit mine and so far so good. (not likely to rain here until October)
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Water ingress for me (if that is the actual problem ) also would have been from a hose only. I haven't ridden it in any significant rain.
When I get the replacement I'll take a close look and see if I can spot any actual changes.
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I was really hoping this groupset would work out. Guess I'll be sticking to mechanical for the time being.
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I was really hoping this groupset would work out. Guess I'll be sticking to mechanical for the time being.
Used last gen Di2 groups are getting cheaper now that the whole new and used bike market has cooled down. You do miss on 12 speeds but don't think that's a biggie. Further more, if you don't mind non-series R785 shifters, you can get very close to eGR prices. That's what I did after going back and forth on ER9 :|
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I have a replaced RD on the way from LTWOO. Hopefully issues resolved. They made me pay postage which seems a little outrageous, but I'm not going to argue over £5.
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I took the plunge and put it on my bike.
So far so good! I’m using a direct mount hanger so I can comfortably run 10-50 in 12 speed, and the b-screw is about halfway in.
The brakes were a bastard to bleed because like others, I didn’t have the right fitting. For brake feel, I don’t really understand the process of what to do with the air valve. Can someone explain it to me?
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I think I’m about 500-600 miles in on my EGR. I haven’t any issues after initial set up.
Should be able to put about 1000 miles on it this month.
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I took the plunge and put it on my bike.
So far so good! I’m using a direct mount hanger so I can comfortably run 10-50 in 12 speed, and the b-screw is about halfway in.
The brakes were a bastard to bleed because like others, I didn’t have the right fitting. For brake feel, I don’t really understand the process of what to do with the air valve. Can someone explain it to me?
There's a video on ltwoos YouTube showing the process.
How are you using a direct mount hanger? Just a standard Shimano one and it fits fine? Is it the wheels mfg one?
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There's a video on ltwoos YouTube showing the process.
How are you using a direct mount hanger? Just a standard Shimano one and it fits fine?
Yup! Here’s a picture.
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Yup! Here’s a picture.
It looks like you still have the B-link there. Doesn't that just make it a hanger (maybe a slightly longer one) rather than direct-link?
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It looks like you still have the B-link there. Doesn't that just make it a hanger (maybe a slightly longer one) rather than direct-link?
Oops, good catch. I took that photo as I was trying different set ups, and yes, you're right - this made it basically a longer hanger which actually helped accommodate this cassette and I might stick with this set up.
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https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806984840131.html?ug_edm_item_id=3256806984840131&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%21%24103.27%21%2446.47%21%21%21%21%21%4021410ce117232777697377140dabaa%2112000039693773011%21edm%21%21%21&edm_click_module=alg_product_l1r2_2937365560&creative_img_ind=2&edm_log_data=edm-item-list-left-one-right-two.store-product-log-link&tracelog=rowan&rowan_id1=aeug_edm_41192_1_en_US_2024-08-10&rowan_msg_id=andrCOWS_41192_%245717acd24aa84794a96d419191c07488&ck=in_edm_other&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
Not 100% positive, but I think I've seen some people on here get 50t cassettes to work, is that correct? I see this cassette on AliExpress just dropped to $68, it's 12 speed, HG, 11-50t and is under 400g. It's exactly
what I'm looking for, and I'm really tempted to go ahead and get this if it will fit with the eGR.
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https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806984840131.html?ug_edm_item_id=3256806984840131&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%21%24103.27%21%2446.47%21%21%21%21%21%4021410ce117232777697377140dabaa%2112000039693773011%21edm%21%21%21&edm_click_module=alg_product_l1r2_2937365560&creative_img_ind=2&edm_log_data=edm-item-list-left-one-right-two.store-product-log-link&tracelog=rowan&rowan_id1=aeug_edm_41192_1_en_US_2024-08-10&rowan_msg_id=andrCOWS_41192_%245717acd24aa84794a96d419191c07488&ck=in_edm_other&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
Not 100% positive, but I think I've seen some people on here get 50t cassettes to work, is that correct? I see this cassette on AliExpress just dropped to $68, it's 12 speed, HG, 11-50t and is under 400g. It's exactly
what I'm looking for, and I'm really tempted to go ahead and get this if it will fit with the eGR.
I’m running a 10-50 without any issue.
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What the hell? I tried to but that cassette on Aliexpress and it showed me one price, and when I logged in to actually purchase it the price bumped up about 20%? I'm still kinda new to that site, is there some way to get around that or to get the price it shows me before I logged in?
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Customs gets built in to the price.
I received my replacement RD from Ltwoo. On visual inspection I can't see anything different at all. They assure me they have fixed the water ingress issues. Time will tell!
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Does LTwoo eGR show up in bicycle computers (wahoo for example) like Wheeltop EDS TX ? To see battery level and shift number ?
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Does LTwoo eGR show up in bicycle computers (wahoo for example) like Wheeltop EDS TX ? To see battery level and shift number ?
Yup! My Karoo 2 sees it - battery life, shifters (although it can't detect it's 1x, but I selected "0" for teeth on the small chainring), shift count, ratio etc - everything you could ever need.
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My Stages Dash M200 sees my eGR. It thinks its a Shimano Di2. My bike computer has a screen that let's me tell it how many gears, what the cassette sizes are, and what the front chainring sizes are (I forget what I did for the front chainring to show only as 1 but it works now) and from all that it gives me a ton of options. It can show a representation of my cassette and which gear I'm in. It can show just an information widget on which gear combo I'm in, and it can also show my ratio. The only part that's a little flakey is the battery, as it only shows full, normal, and critical battery levels, and seems to sometimes warns about critical battery when the battery is perfectly fine. I suspect it's maybe receiving info about a voltage level or something that doesn't quite match Di2 voltage levels so it thinks the battery is dying when it's nowhere even close.
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I just hit 500km of pretty gnarly gravel on the eGR groupo. It's performed like a champion, no complaints so far.
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I might be installing this group on someone's bike. The description by LTWoo about the calipers is throwing me off. They say its not flat mount, its not compatible with standard spacing and you would need a flat mount adapter to be purchased separately. What other parts does one need exactly for it to fit onto flat mount frame/fork? I see they include an adapter, is that not enough?
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The included adapters should work for 140mm and 160mm rotors. In some instances I’ve seen issues with certain fork designs not fitting and I found the rear 140mm adapter+caliper a bit more difficult to tighten due to the seat stays being in the way.
The overall brake performance is good and I found using the adapters make aligning the calipers a bit easier than a regular flat mount setup.
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I might be installing this group on someone's bike. The description by LTWoo about the calipers is throwing me off. They say its not flat mount, its not compatible with standard spacing and you would need a flat mount adapter to be purchased separately. What other parts does one need exactly for it to fit onto flat mount frame/fork? I see they include an adapter, is that not enough?
I was thrown by this as well, but after reading trbike's write up on his website, and installing it myself, I think ltwoo have it wrong. What they provide in the kit fits flat mount without any issue.
I'm reposting his write up - hopefully he doesn't mind. I found it very useful for my install.
https://trbike.blogspot.com/2024/05/ltwoo-egr-results-writeup.html
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The included adapters should work for 140mm and 160mm rotors. In some instances I’ve seen issues with certain fork designs not fitting and I found the rear 140mm adapter+caliper a bit more difficult to tighten due to the seat stays being in the way.
The overall brake performance is good and I found using the adapters make aligning the calipers a bit easier than a regular flat mount setup.
Thanks. I had calipers not fitting into rear triangle of my GF002 (TRP HY/RD) because they were too tall after the adapter. Hope these are not that tall, the group will be going on a 2023 Diverge which has dropped seat stays and narrow rear triangle.
I was thrown by this as well, but after reading trbike's write up on his website, and installing it myself, I think ltwoo have it wrong. What they provide in the kit fits flat mount without any issue.
Oh good. Yeah, I am wondering why they had to mention that. Thanks for the link, I will give it a read!
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Thanks. I had calipers not fitting into rear triangle of my GF002 (TRP HY/RD) because they were too tall after the adapter. Hope these are not that tall, the group will be going on a 2023 Diverge which has dropped seat stays and narrow rear triangle.
With the 160mm adapter, No issues with dropped seat stays. Though I found space extremely tight with the 140mm adapter. I do fast descents with them, and performance has never been an issue. Also like I mentioned, I found the adapter plates give the calipers a bit more leeway aligning the brakes. The plates help create a flush surface even if your disc brake mounts aren't perfectly surfaced. I have zero disc rub on either of my LTwoo equipped bikes.
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Wondering if anyone has a recommendation for 14500 cells. I have a generic set from eBay but am suspicious of their capacity/reliability. Would like to have another set on hand to try.
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Wondering if anyone has a recommendation for 14500 cells. I have a generic set from eBay but am suspicious of their capacity/reliability. Would like to have another set on hand to try.
Vapcell F12 14500 from Liion Wholesale. I got 4 for $16. Vapcells are a favorite of flashlight community.
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Vapcell F12 14500 from Liion Wholesale. I got 4 for $16. Vapcells are a favorite of flashlight community.
Thanks for this.
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I'm using Xtar 14500 800mAh cells I ordered from Battery Junction (us based, I think - the supplier, not the cells themselves).
I've been super happy with them. I get many thousands of shifts before I feel the need to charge. This month I've used my eGR bike a lot less. It's sat up for almost the entirety of August. In that time it's dropped to approx. 75% charge level. Can't really ask for better than that.
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As shared on the other thread, battery quality is importatnt. Having issues on my eGR with quick discharge.
Will change batteries as recommended by others.
STAY AWAY from these:
Doublepow 14500 AA 3.7V Lithium Battery 800mAh / https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006240603318.html
BR Chris
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Can anyone give feedback switching from a mechanical 1x setup to the electronic eGR? I'm curious if you found the upgrade worth it on a 1x setup?
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Can anyone give feedback switching from a mechanical 1x setup to the electronic eGR? I'm curious if you found the upgrade worth it on a 1x setup?
I went from a 2x mech to 1x eGR. Because I've had no issues with mine, I would say yes, totally worth it. It meant a lot less hassle routing cables through the frame, and the shifting once dialed in is flawless. But it's worth bearing in mind that this groupset I think can still be considered 'in testing'. I'm not sure I would have the confidence to take this bike packing on a multi day adventure and feel secure in the knowledge that there will be no issues.
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I went from a 2x mech to 1x eGR. Because I've had no issues with mine, I would say yes, totally worth it. It meant a lot less hassle routing cables through the frame, and the shifting once dialed in is flawless. But it's worth bearing in mind that this groupset I think can still be considered 'in testing'. I'm not sure I would have the confidence to take this bike packing on a multi day adventure and feel secure in the knowledge that there will be no issues.
Both my road bikes are running Ltwoo ER9 and they've been running flawlessly. I've been tempted to go electronic with all my bikes, though I'm hesitant with my gravel setup just incase something happens while I'm on a remote trail in the mountains. The other thing is I'm not entirely convinced I'll stay 1x, I also like 2x gravel as well. I'm currently using 2x Ultegra shifters, so it'd be easy to drop a mechanical FD if I switch back.
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Both my road bikes are running Ltwoo ER9 and they've been running flawlessly. I've been tempted to go electronic with all my bikes, though I'm hesitant with my gravel setup just incase something happens while I'm on a remote trail in the mountains. The other thing is I'm not entirely convinced I'll stay 1x, I also like 2x gravel as well. I'm currently using 2x Ultegra shifters, so it'd be easy to drop a mechanical FD if I switch back.
I went with a 42 up the front, and a 10-50 at the back, and that gives me fairly wide gearing that's similar to what I had with the 2x. I'm thinking of getting a 40 or maybe even a 38 up front to give me just a little more on the steep hills we have around where I live.
Otherwise, colour me dead impressed with this groupset.
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Welp, I'm about to find out what it's like to reach out to Ltwoo. I had a bit of a crash late yesterday evening riding some proper gravel track about 10 miles or so from my house. I went over the bars and my bike went elsewhere and bent the eGR. It almost looked rideable, but then after a few strokes trying to ride it the chain sucked the derailleur into the wheel. I spent a few minutes untangling everything and managed to get it free and clear of the wheel and the cassette. After that, I really don't know how, it was shifting again and I was able to ride it home. I spent the rest of that ride home puzzling over in my head how it could still be shifting smoothly while it was obviously bent all to hell (I stuck to a few speeds in the middle of the cassette and avoided the extremes to avoid dropping my chain). It was pitch dark when I got home so all I did was hose the bike down and put it away. I haven't been able to give it a proper post-mortem and see what's salvageable and not. From what little I did see, my derailleur hanger looks straight as an arrow but the first part of the eGR that connects to my hanger looks bent badly. I didn't bother looking at the jockey wheel cage but I assume that's got some bend as well. I suspect it still shifted smoothly because the parallelogram which contains all of the shifting mechanism and geometry was still internally aligned. I'll post some pics once I have a chance to look at it and also reach out to Ltwoo and see if any of my bent parts can be obtained from them instead of scrapping the whole thing.
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Welp, I'm about to find out what it's like to reach out to Ltwoo. I had a bit of a crash late yesterday evening riding some proper gravel track about 10 miles or so from my house. I went over the bars and my bike went elsewhere and bent the eGR. It almost looked rideable, but then after a few strokes trying to ride it the chain sucked the derailleur into the wheel. I spent a few minutes untangling everything and managed to get it free and clear of the wheel and the cassette. After that, I really don't know how, it was shifting again and I was able to ride it home. I spent the rest of that ride home puzzling over in my head how it could still be shifting smoothly while it was obviously bent all to hell (I stuck to a few speeds in the middle of the cassette and avoided the extremes to avoid dropping my chain). It was pitch dark when I got home so all I did was hose the bike down and put it away. I haven't been able to give it a proper post-mortem and see what's salvageable and not. From what little I did see, my derailleur hanger looks straight as an arrow but the first part of the eGR that connects to my hanger looks bent badly. I didn't bother looking at the jockey wheel cage but I assume that's got some bend as well. I suspect it still shifted smoothly because the parallelogram which contains all of the shifting mechanism and geometry was still internally aligned. I'll post some pics once I have a chance to look at it and also reach out to Ltwoo and see if any of my bent parts can be obtained from them instead of scrapping the whole thing.
oh mate, the most important thing is that you're ok. Parts are replaceable.
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I doubt they have spare parts laying around. I’d wait for the next AliEx sale and pick up a replacement eGR RD. Post some pics of your RD, you should be able to readily remove the inner cage plate and spray paint any scruffs. Also nail polish enamel can be used to cover up any scratches on the main unit.
I’d still double check your derailleur hanger with an alignment tool, no way you can eyeball if it’s straight.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrLShx2 (https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrLShx2)
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Is anyone has news about two shifters operation of egr ? Very disappointing of this one hand use only.
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You can get the rear mech on its own no issues, electronic mech is about 250USD. They are the updated design as well. So far, my experience getting parts has been excellent and I’m glad they’ve decided to make all the cables and everything available.
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They responded to my email, at least. They said it was a pity that they don't sell directly to consumers right now (I think he was responding to my question about whether I could purchase just the damaged link on the derailleur) but he would check to see if there was some other way he could support me. Maybe just pushing the problem down the road until I forget about it? Maybe actually looking for a solution? I'll find out.
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They responded to my email, at least. They said it was a pity that they don't sell directly to consumers right now (I think he was responding to my question about whether I could purchase just the damaged link on the derailleur) but he would check to see if there was some other way he could support me. Maybe just pushing the problem down the road until I forget about it? Maybe actually looking for a solution? I'll find out.
They're nicely telling you to buy a replacement RD and leave them alone! ;D
If it makes you feel better, a replacement GRX Di2 or SRAM XLR RD cost much more. Also I wonder if any of the mechanical LTwoo RD cages can be used with the ER9/X and EGR? Someone would need to do mechanical surgery, get a good look at the EGR cage and match it with their mechanical RD counterparts.
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https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806984840131.html?ug_edm_item_id=3256806984840131&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%21%24103.27%21%2446.47%21%21%21%21%21%4021410ce117232777697377140dabaa%2112000039693773011%21edm%21%21%21&edm_click_module=alg_product_l1r2_2937365560&creative_img_ind=2&edm_log_data=edm-item-list-left-one-right-two.store-product-log-link&tracelog=rowan&rowan_id1=aeug_edm_41192_1_en_US_2024-08-10&rowan_msg_id=andrCOWS_41192_%245717acd24aa84794a96d419191c07488&ck=in_edm_other&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
Not 100% positive, but I think I've seen some people on here get 50t cassettes to work, is that correct? I see this cassette on AliExpress just dropped to $68, it's 12 speed, HG, 11-50t and is under 400g. It's exactly
what I'm looking for, and I'm really tempted to go ahead and get this if it will fit with the eGR.
I am running both a 10-50 and and 11-50 11s Garbaruk cassettes (two wheelsets) with no issue. Used the standard hardware on the standard hanger on a 2019 Cutthroat. Yes a bit of B screw for alignment but not all the way. On THIS bike, it works so seamlessly I don't understand why they don't claim compatibility with 50t for the win. Perhaps slightly different hanger geometries cause issues. Your mileage (km-age) may differ
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Does LTwoo eGR show up in bicycle computers (wahoo for example) like Wheeltop EDS TX ? To see battery level and shift number ?
Yes and no. I have used it on Garmin Edge 1030+ and 1040 and a Karoo 2. On all the gear setting report seems correct (there is a small latency but that might be normal for all eshift systems). But battery status is an issue on the Garmins. Even when full they throw an alert that battery level is critical. So no useful information there. The Karoo reports a status of full but I don't know if it updates correctly (it is a spare unit I just connected to answer this question)
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Is anyone has news about two shifters operation of egr ? Very disappointing of this one hand use only.
Agreed. I wrote to LTWOO right after I installed and was told that they were considering adding configuration options in a future update. Unfortunately, no updates yet. I just wrote to them again about the battery status bug with Garmin too and added a PS about this again.
It's a real shame that the system has 4 buttons but you can only use 2. I want to see a configuration option of at least 'SRAM mode' (left side one way, right side the other) but even better would be to allow setting each button as you wish. And bonus points if they'd let buttons invoke ANT+ control of a head unit like Shimano and SRAM do on some models. If you'd like to add to the pile of requests (please do) write to sales@ltwoo.com
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Crash update.
I finally found some time to clean stuff up, take everything apart, and dig into what may have been damaged. I initially didn't think I bent my derailleur hanger, but I was badly mistaken. My derailleur hanger is quite bent. Which, is a good thing, because I should be able to get another one of those pretty easily and cheaply (though they are currently out of stock at Poseidon).
Bad news, though, is that I do believe the first link of the eGR rear derailleur is also bent. And maybe possibly my frame a tiny bit. I'll bring my bike the LBS this week and see what they think about the frame. Here are the pics of the eGR showing the link, below. Also, my bottom most roller was really, really rough. It looks to be a roller bearing roller and had water and crud in it. I couldn't disassembly it, but I was able to squeeze perhaps the tiniest bit of grease in there and it started to free up a little. Anyone find any replacement rollers that are confirmed to fit?
Does anyone have one not currently on a bike and can please take some similar pictures? It would be nice to compare and see if the little 3-5deg angle in that link is meant to be there, or is the result of my crash.
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Are you talking about the jockey wheels? You should be able to remove them by taking off the screws. After that I'd clean the jockey wheels thoroughly with alcohol. Also I believe LTwoo uses Fovno or similar jockey wheels. You can find them either on AliEx or even Amazon. I consider most of the Fovno equipment to be decent, besides jockey wheels they make chainrings and their own crankset.
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Are you talking about the jockey wheels? You should be able to remove them by taking off the screws. After that I'd clean the jockey wheels thoroughly with alcohol. Also I believe LTwoo uses Fovno or similar jockey wheels. You can find them either on AliEx or even Amazon. I consider most of the Fovno equipment to be decent, besides jockey wheels they make chainrings and their own crankset.
Yes, the jockey wheels. I was able to remove the wheel from the frame, but the bearing inside of the wheel was a closed, cartridge bearing. The bearing was rough, not just the wheel in the frame. Despite being a closed cartridge, I held my grease dispenser right up against the seal and managed to squeeze a tiny bit through the gaps. I could even see some watery/yucky discharge ooze out the other side. After that, it rolled much more smoothly. I can't imagine it's going to hold up very well for long, though. This was only for one wheel, the other seemed to be perfectly fine.
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Yes, the jockey wheels. I was able to remove the wheel from the frame, but the bearing inside of the wheel was a closed, cartridge bearing. The bearing was rough, not just the wheel in the frame. Despite being a closed cartridge, I held my grease dispenser right up against the seal and managed to squeeze a tiny bit through the gaps. I could even see some watery/yucky discharge ooze out the other side. After that, it rolled much more smoothly. I can't imagine it's going to hold up very well for long, though. This was only for one wheel, the other seemed to be perfectly fine.
The good news is that jockey wheels are generally pretty interchangeable. You should be able to find a replacement without going back to LTWOO (Half of my bikes have non-OEM jockey wheels anyway because they look cool :-) )
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This or wheeltop gx?
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The 80s Designer Store seems to say that they will sell me the link that I bent in my crash. They sent me a custom invoice for $20 for the part. I just got my replacement derailleur hanger in yesterday. Tonight I'll fit that onto my frame and make a final determination on whether I need it or not (I suspect I will still need it). I'll let you know how it all works out if I need it and if/when I receive it.
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The 80s Designer Store seems to say that they will sell me the link that I bent in my crash. They sent me a custom invoice for $20 for the part. I just got my replacement derailleur hanger in yesterday. Tonight I'll fit that onto my frame and make a final determination on whether I need it or not (I suspect I will still need it). I'll let you know how it all works out if I need it and if/when I receive it.
Hopefully you can get your RD up and running again. The 80 Design Store seems to be offering better customer service on LTwoo parts than LTwoo themselves! ;D
I've somewhat lost interest going with the eGR. After getting a Garbaruk (knock-off) cage on AliEx for my GRX 812 RD, shifting has been so good with big range cassettes, I don't really see the need going gravel electronic at this point.
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For what it's worth I can vote for 80 designer store to. They have helped me in the past to. Worth paying a bit more there than in the choice discounts from ltwoo store on ali.
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Well, rather embarrassingly, I think my new derailleur hanger solved like 98% of my problem. The "bend" in the first link on the derailleur hanger seems to be intentional, perhaps to offset one of the angles introduced by the parallelogram. Something is still a tiny bit off, perhaps that link or perhaps my cage is slightly bent. But, it's very close to straight now. So close that I won't need that link replaced.
I messaged the store back and thanked them for their help and explained why I wouldn't need it anymore. I will like to support them in the future, though, for being helpful. I feel like a bit of an ass for misdiagnosing this in the first place.
My eGR is back up and running properly now. Needed a good battery charge after sitting up, unused, for almost 2 months. I'm a little surprised by that, since my battery held its charge pretty well after the first month. I'll have to keep an eye on that moving forward.
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Are you in the UK? If so I have a spare LTWOO RD, as I had a water ingress issue and it stopped working, so I got a replacement. Of course, now it's fully working again (dried out).
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Will install eGR on my gravel bike soon. How do you guys waterproof your derailleurs? Ive seen some people mention liquid electrical tape but where do I apply it? Around the cable port after the cable is plugged in?
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Will install eGR on my gravel bike soon. How do you guys waterproof your derailleurs? Ive seen some people mention liquid electrical tape but where do I apply it? Around the cable port after the cable is plugged in?
I haven't had to do that. Granted, I've only used mine in light rain a few times and heavy rain once, but every time it's been for hours at a time and no issues yet. I applied some dielectric grease inside the plug, but I doubt that does much except keep water from interfering directly with the plug.
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Will install eGR on my gravel bike soon. How do you guys waterproof your derailleurs? Ive seen some people mention liquid electrical tape but where do I apply it? Around the cable port after the cable is plugged in?
That's what I did as a preventative measure. Get everything 100% properly installed first (make sure your batteries work, there's no draining etc), then I applied it where the cable enters the derailleur.
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Just received my eGR and can't turn it on. I installed fully charged 14500 batteries into the battery holder and connected the cable but there's no reaction from the rear derailleur. The light does not flash, no reaction when I press the button, not discovered by the app. Already wrote about it to the seller but is there anything I can try myself while waiting for the response?
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ok. figured it out. Turns out you need to connect the charger first, otherwise the battery is not going to work even if it's fully charged
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Is it possible to put bigger capacity 14500 inside ? I saw someone mentioning Vapcell F12 in the thread, wich are 1250mAh instead of the 800mAh original.
Is it blocked by the system ?
Thanks
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Is it possible to put bigger capacity 14500 inside ? I saw someone mentioning Vapcell F12 in the thread, wich are 1250mAh instead of the 800mAh original.
Is it blocked by the system ?
Thanks
The battery capacity is the battery capacity. If it's greater than 800mAh, then it will last longer. There is nothing I know of that tracks the battery usage and shuts it off after a certain usage threshold has been exceeded.
You should be mindful, though, that the 'stated' capacity of some cells may be... exaggerated.
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ok. figured it out. Turns out you need to connect the charger first, otherwise the battery is not going to work even if it's fully charged
Indeed. That's in every YouTube video about the installation, and in the paper manual, and the PDF manual, from memory at least.
On batteries, I originally bought trash batteries (bought what I could find) then bought expensive 2A batteries, they've been much more dependable. Given the failure rate on these groups, I would recommend everyone to use quality batteries (no idea if it prevents failures, but that's a sound insurance policy). 1A vs 2A probably makes no difference, and for sure it makes no sense to put even higher discharge batteries, so aim instead for batteries with a higher capacity as it will extend battery life. The batteries I had installed at first sometimes made the RD shift several gears with one click. Problem completely disappeared with the new batteries, and they last much longer. I capacity tested all of them, the cheap ones tested at 300-400 and the new ones tested at the stated capacity (800 or 900 from memory).
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Perhaps anybody actually owning this groupset can answer the following question:
At the end of the Trace Velo review of the prototype eGR, Luke mentions, that the default shifting configuration is on the two shifting levers on the right hand side (one for up, one for down - classic shimano-style) but it also can be changed within the app to be on the left hand side aswell.
Is it also possibly to configure it as SRAM-eTap-style shifting, so lever on the right hand side does upshifting, lever on the left hand side does downshifting (or the other way round)?
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Thanks for the answers. That what I thought like for every normal electronic system. But sometimes, brands blocks the use of other capacity batteries (phones for exemple). Good to know, I'll go for a big capacity Vapcell then.
Bought my groupset by designer 80, they sent photos of packing before shipping. Nice thing to do.
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Perhaps anybody actually owning this groupset can answer the following question:
At the end of the Trace Velo review of the prototype eGR, Luke mentions, that the default shifting configuration is on the two shifting levers on the right hand side (one for up, one for down - classic shimano-style) but it also can be changed within the app to be on the left hand side aswell.
Is it also possibly to configure it as SRAM-eTap-style shifting, so lever on the right hand side does upshifting, lever on the left hand side does downshifting (or the other way round)?
No. Has been requested many times. Reach out to Ltwoo and add your name to the list
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The battery capacity is the battery capacity. If it's greater than 800mAh, then it will last longer. There is nothing I know of that tracks the battery usage and shuts it off after a certain usage threshold has been exceeded.
You should be mindful, though, that the 'stated' capacity of some cells may be... exaggerated.
Worth noting that I believe the variability in batteries is what makes the 'gauge' in the app rather inconsistent. I assume it is calibrated for whatever LTWOO ships. Other batteries will have different performance curves (even better ones are not necessarily better for this purpose) and thus show a different % in the app. A bit maddening the inconsistency of burndown I've seen. But if you charge regularly before you run out (still weeks), it shouldn't cause actual issue
(see separate post coming)
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Perhaps anybody actually owning this groupset can answer the following question:
At the end of the Trace Velo review of the prototype eGR, Luke mentions, that the default shifting configuration is on the two shifting levers on the right hand side (one for up, one for down - classic shimano-style) but it also can be changed within the app to be on the left hand side aswell.
Is it also possibly to configure it as SRAM-eTap-style shifting, so lever on the right hand side does upshifting, lever on the left hand side does downshifting (or the other way round)?
Very sadly, no. You can swap sides as you note. But as yet, it cannot be reconfigured. I've exchanged emails with LTWOO on this twice now and the first time they suggested that configuration options are in the queue. But it's been a half year with no updates so...
The second time (when I made specific suggestions of how it would be nice to reconfigure), I got a response that 'SRAM style' might run into patent issues. I replied that they could just let us pick what each button does. Then they aren't shipping with a conflicting pattern. ;). No response to that suggestion
So at the moment, the other switches are just backups or potentially future-proofing for a 2x configuration.
If you'd like to suggest something, send a note to sales@lwtoo.com. They are reasonably responsive in my experience. (don't tell them I sent you)
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Thanks for the answers. That what I thought like for every normal electronic system. But sometimes, brands blocks the use of other capacity batteries (phones for exemple). Good to know, I'll go for a big capacity Vapcell then.
Bought my groupset by designer 80, they sent photos of packing before shipping. Nice thing to do.
Yeah, that kind of lockout depends on circuitry in the pack. In this case, they are providing the pack that you use (the tube with circuit board) and you add the simple 'dumb' battery inside. They don't have direct access to information about the battery itself (they could infer it perhaps)
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Yeah, that kind of lockout depends on circuitry in the pack. In this case, they are providing the pack that you use (the tube with circuit board) and you add the simple 'dumb' battery inside. They don't have direct access to information about the battery itself (they could infer it perhaps)
Well, we have adressed that problem to ltwoo....they leave it to the customer to buy the batteries and they are not able to control the quality of the battery at the end..
Selling a product with batteries opens a huge can of worms..it is hard to ship parcels with batteries inside, well it is not hard, but its more expensive...you would also have to certify this battery pack...
The pcb they are using does not have any (working) protection, we have had a burned tray without any explanable reason...
it is very easy to program a warning if the battery is low quality and or begins to die...when the load is applied and the voltage drops below a certain level, you could trigger a warning...
But they are chinese...so a product quality of 90 % is good enough for them....
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@gloscherrybomb & @trcycling
Thanks for you answers.
I am currently not in need of a new groupset, just checking options as my next upgrade will prolly be electronic with SRAMs eTap-shiftlogic.
Hopefully Sensah will be offering something the like with their new electronic groupset which I heard is in the making... they have been more-SRAM-than-Shimano-like in the past anyways. ;)
If they just "copy" the APEX/Rival AXS but with hydraulic oil brakes (instead of DOT) and a derailleur battery pack which uses some standard batteries (like 18650) instead of the proprietary stuff, I think that would be an absolute winner of a groupset.
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I completed a 115km back country gravel event in Corner Brook, Newfoundland last week which was on terrain everywhere from tame to knarly, with some rain, mud, puddles, water crossings...
My RD didn't suffer from water ingress, but at the end of the event my watts were not making sense. When I got home, found that the two jockey wheels were completely locked up. They use 626Z bearings, which have metal shields and are not sealed like their 626RS counterparts.
I've sourced some bearings at the local Wajax but also have a request sent to LTWOO to warranty the jockey wheels. I've got maybe 1000km on this group since May.
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I completed a 115km back country gravel event in Corner Brook, Newfoundland last week which was on terrain everywhere from tame to knarly, with some rain, mud, puddles, water crossings...
My RD didn't suffer from water ingress, but at the end of the event my watts were not making sense. When I got home, found that the two jockey wheels were completely locked up. They use 626Z bearings, which have metal shields and are not sealed like their 626RS counterparts.
I've sourced some bearings at the local Wajax but also have a request sent to LTWOO to warranty the jockey wheels. I've got maybe 1000km on this group since May.
By chance, did you take pictures?
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By chance, did you take pictures?
I haven't, but LTWOO has requested a photo and video of the failed bearings. I'll share here later when I have a moment to capture them.
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I haven't, but LTWOO has requested a photo and video of the failed bearings. I'll share here later when I have a moment to capture them.
Keep us posted...they usually keep asking, and asking and asking for many other things..but wont help...
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I'd like to hear feedback, as well. I rode through some gnarly puddles and nasty muddy track exactly once (on a ride I crashed). When I did a post mortem examination some weeks later I discovered my lowest jockey wheel was seized. I squeezed some grease in around the bearing shield and restored some life. I ordered a random jockey wheel from Ali to try to replace it, but I'd be interested in knowing what the correct replacement jockey wheel is or can be sourced from. I emailed Ltwoo but got no response.
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Curious what size jockey wheels are used on the EGR? Goldix have a few steel bearing jockey wheels and LTwoo seems to use off-the-shelf parts when possible. Would any of these match?
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803396383834.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803396383834.html)
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You can get the rear mech on its own no issues, electronic mech is about 250USD. They are the updated design as well. So far, my experience getting parts has been excellent and I’m glad they’ve decided to make all the cables and everything available.
got my sram apex axs rd for $200, don't see the point anymore tbh. now that've eliminated the need for shifters and all you have to get is blips for $100. maybe the flexibility to go between 10-12 sp drivetrains is still a selling point. I've given up on these myself.
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Curious what size jockey wheels are used on the EGR? Goldix have a few steel bearing jockey wheels and LTwoo seems to use off-the-shelf parts when possible. Would any of these match?
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803396383834.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803396383834.html)
These look exactly like the ones on the eGR rear mech, but with black bearing covers. Note the 626Z metallic shield bearings.
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By chance, did you take pictures?
See the photo below. Will try to get the video uploaded this weekend. The 626RS cost me $3 each at a local bearing ship.
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See the photo below. Will try to get the video uploaded this weekend. The 626RS cost me $3 each at a local bearing ship.
Thanks for posting the picture. Made me go look up bearing code differences :-)
Seems like this might be worth doing as preventive maintenance. How easily do the bearings slip in/out? Is it a fingers job or would I need the right drifts?
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got my sram apex axs rd for $200, don't see the point anymore tbh. now that've eliminated the need for shifters and all you have to get is blips for $100. maybe the flexibility to go between 10-12 sp drivetrains is still a selling point. I've given up on these myself.
So what do you use for hoods or do you use flat bars? I think 10-12 speed flexibility is still a big selling point for LTwoo and Wheeltop. SRAM blips with non-replaceable batteries just sounds like some first world nonsense. I might as well toss my water bottles after single use as well! ;D
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Thanks for posting the picture. Made me go look up bearing code differences :-)
Seems like this might be worth doing as preventive maintenance. How easily do the bearings slip in/out? Is it a fingers job or would I need the right drifts?
I used two sockets and a bench vise and they popped out pretty smoothly. One the same size as the bearing and the other large enough to support the jockey wheel and allow the hearing to pass into. You could make a drift with a bolt and washer and use a socket on the other side for the bearing to pull into.
Take care when pressing the new ones in to make sure they are even. My first attempt the bearing was a bit skewed so I had to remove and redo.
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So what do you use for hoods or do you use flat bars? I think 10-12 speed flexibility is still a big selling point for LTwoo and Wheeltop. SRAM blips with non-replaceable batteries just sounds like some first world nonsense. I might as well toss my water bottles after single use as well! ;D
I've used it both w/a drop-bar canti cross-check and a flat bar mtb so far.
I think ppl have swapped coin batteries out in those blips, but it looks a bit surgical. like on a level of changing an iphone screen - not hard per se but fussy and time-consuming.
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I've used it both w/a drop-bar canti cross-check and a flat bar mtb so far.
I think ppl have swapped coin batteries out in those blips, but it looks a bit surgical. like on a level of changing an iphone screen - not hard per se but fussy and time-consuming.
I just found a how-to tutorial on how to replace the blip batteries.
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C13-v1lMaWR/ (https://www.instagram.com/reel/C13-v1lMaWR/)
It would be great if someone could make 3D print of a case that's easy to access. Similar to swapping batteries on a cadence/speed sensor. I'd really like to see LTwoo or Wheeltop explore this option as well. Though I wonder how many patents SRAM has to protect this concept?
It reminds me of my cheap wireless doorbell, which basically does the same thing!
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I just found a how-to tutorial on how to replace the blip batteries.
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C13-v1lMaWR/ (https://www.instagram.com/reel/C13-v1lMaWR/)
It would be great if someone could make 3D print of a case that's easy to access. Similar to swapping batteries on a cadence/speed sensor. I'd really like to see LTwoo or Wheeltop explore this option as well. Though I wonder how many patents SRAM has to protect this concept?
It reminds me of my cheap wireless doorbell, which basically does the same thing!
we are already working on this problem :-)
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It would be great if someone could make 3D print of a case that's easy to access. Similar to swapping batteries on a cadence/speed sensor. I'd really like to see LTwoo or Wheeltop explore this option as well. Though I wonder how many patents SRAM has to protect this concept?
That's such a good point. I can't - for the life of me - imagine what stupidity went into the design with NON-REPLACEABLE batteries on something like that. If my $10 PAIR of ant+ speed and cadence sensors can manage to be waterproof, wireless, and have a replaceable battery then surely SRAM can do the same with a critical part of the drivetrain. Actually, it's worse than that. The pair of sensors I have uses the battery cover as a switch - turn the battery cover to the left and it's a speed sensor and turned to the right it's a cadence sensor. Not only does it have a replaceable battery cover, but they innovated a way to make it part of the interface.
Shame on SRAM, for real. Straight to engineer jail.
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That's such a good point. I can't - for the life of me - imagine what stupidity went into the design with NON-REPLACEABLE batteries on something like that. If my $10 PAIR of ant+ speed and cadence sensors can manage to be waterproof, wireless, and have a replaceable battery then surely SRAM can do the same with a critical part of the drivetrain. Actually, it's worse than that. The pair of sensors I have uses the battery cover as a switch - turn the battery cover to the left and it's a speed sensor and turned to the right it's a cadence sensor. Not only does it have a replaceable battery cover, but they innovated a way to make it part of the interface.
Shame on SRAM, for real. Straight to engineer jail.
SRAM engineers probably did design it to be replaceable, but then the marketing department said otherwise! I can't stand companies that are market driven in this way. Shimano isn't much better, but I find SRAM much worst in this regards. I'm actually glad LTwoo and Wheeltop are now in the groupset market.
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I'm actually glad LTwoo and Wheeltop are now in the groupset market.
Yes. Market economics does work for things like this. SRAM and Shimano can be a little foolish, still, but if they start acting like complete jackasses, then the new companies will start eating their lunch.
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@gloscherrybomb & @trcycling
Thanks for you answers.
I am currently not in need of a new groupset, just checking options as my next upgrade will prolly be electronic with SRAMs eTap-shiftlogic.
Hopefully Sensah will be offering something the like with their new electronic groupset which I heard is in the making... they have been more-SRAM-than-Shimano-like in the past anyways. ;)
If they just "copy" the APEX/Rival AXS but with hydraulic oil brakes (instead of DOT) and a derailleur battery pack which uses some standard batteries (like 18650) instead of the proprietary stuff, I think that would be an absolute winner of a groupset.
Quoting myself here but may be interesting for others (albeit being offtopic in regards to LTWOO eGR)
The new Wheeltop GEX offers a fully wireless rear derailleur (compareable to SRAM) with hydraulic oil disc brakes (fully Shimano-compatible... you could even use original Shimano brakes) and the shifting-logic can be programmed either way (SRAM-style one side up, the other side down or Shimano-style both up and down on the right hand side) inside the app. The battery pack is proprietary but atleast can be exchanged (according to the manual).
It is also said to be fully compatible with basically all 3 to 14 speed cassettes which is a very nice addition because it lets you save money on using cheap 11spd cassettes now but also stay compatible/future proof on 12 & 13 speed when those become cheaper in the future.
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Quoting myself here but may be interesting for others (albeit being offtopic in regards to LTWOO eGR)
The new Wheeltop GEX offers a fully wireless rear derailleur (compareable to SRAM) with hydraulic oil disc brakes (fully Shimano-compatible... you could even use original Shimano brakes) and the shifting-logic can be programmed either way (SRAM-style one side up, the other side down or Shimano-style both up and down on the right hand side) inside the app. The battery pack is proprietary but atleast can be exchanged (according to the manual).
It is also said to be fully compatible with basically all 3 to 14 speed cassettes which is a very nice addition because it lets you save money on using cheap 11spd cassettes now but also stay compatible/future proof on 12 & 13 speed when those become cheaper in the future.
GeX does seem nice, and the Ali price is good ($450 right now, without any other special discounts). Problem is, zero support and warranty at that price. Their QC doesn't seem to be much better than Ltwoo, really, so not a huge advantage over Ltwoo really at that price. There seems to be a website that purports to be their US distribution company that's selling it for $509 (on sale right now). That ain't a bad price, and if that's really legit and they back the warranty and support then it's probably a slightly safer bet than Ltwoo at a slightly higher price.
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GeX does seem nice, and the Ali price is good ($450 right now, without any other special discounts). Problem is, zero support and warranty at that price. Their QC doesn't seem to be much better than Ltwoo, really, so not a huge advantage over Ltwoo really at that price. There seems to be a website that purports to be their US distribution company that's selling it for $509 (on sale right now). That ain't a bad price, and if that's really legit and they back the warranty and support then it's probably a slightly safer bet than Ltwoo at a slightly higher price.
It seems Wheeltop now has US distribution and warranty support (not sure about Europe). I remember someone saying that Wheeltop opened an office in Portland, OR. The GeX for $509 USD with warranty support and selectable cassette speeds, seems reasonable. Also Wheeltop took a cue from Shimano and offers separate RDs for both xx-46t and xx-51t cassette sizes. Plus they offer alloy and carbon versions. LTwoo only offers xx-46t compatibility and alloy only shifters with the eGR. LTwoo has no US support or distribution either, with AliEx sellers stepping up for support. Wheeltop sounds (at least) on-paper to be the safer bet.
Though personally I'd probably stick with eGR since I'm already embedded with the ER9 groupset on my road bikes, so I'd only need 1 app to manage all my bikes.
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SRAM engineers probably did design it to be replaceable, but then the marketing department said otherwise! I can't stand companies that are market driven in this way. Shimano isn't much better, but I find SRAM much worst in this regards. I'm actually glad LTwoo and Wheeltop are now in the groupset market.
the moment you decide to make it replaceable you need to add thickness to the screw-on cap, a rubber gasket and additional assembly steps at the plant. this way you can make it smaller, flimsier and also not have to do a 5-yr durability study.
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GeX does seem nice, and the Ali price is good ($450 right now, without any other special discounts). Problem is, zero support and warranty at that price. Their QC doesn't seem to be much better than Ltwoo, really, so not a huge advantage over Ltwoo really at that price. There seems to be a website that purports to be their US distribution company that's selling it for $509 (on sale right now). That ain't a bad price, and if that's really legit and they back the warranty and support then it's probably a slightly safer bet than Ltwoo at a slightly higher price.
good find! I like how the AE eds mtb package price dropped to be in line with the $300 SRAM apex/blip combo. I'll probably pick one up for my kid's bike.
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good find! I like how the AE eds mtb package price dropped to be in line with the $300 SRAM apex/blip combo. I'll probably pick one up for my kid's bike.
https://www.performancebike.com/sram-apex-xplr-axs-rear-derailleur-grey-12-speed-electronic-00.7518.175.000/p1501152 (https://www.performancebike.com/sram-apex-xplr-axs-rear-derailleur-grey-12-speed-electronic-00.7518.175.000/p1501152)
SRAM AXS XPLR RD is $221 USD right now and paired with $100 blips, seems quite reasonable. I could literally just keep my Shimano hydraulic shifters in-place and go full wireless with that setup. Though how would the crank/chain/cassette situation look? I'd have to go 12 speed, but can the XPLR RD handle non-SRAM chain/cassette combos?
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https://www.performancebike.com/sram-apex-xplr-axs-rear-derailleur-grey-12-speed-electronic-00.7518.175.000/p1501152 (https://www.performancebike.com/sram-apex-xplr-axs-rear-derailleur-grey-12-speed-electronic-00.7518.175.000/p1501152)
SRAM AXS XPLR RD is $221 USD right now and paired with $100 blips, seems quite reasonable. I could literally just keep my Shimano hydraulic shifters in-place and go full wireless with that setup. Though how would the crank/chain/cassette situation look? I'd have to go 12 speed, but can the XPLR RD handle non-SRAM chain/cassette combos?
I've been running it w/AE 12-sp cassette and chain, and it works. I don't know if it works better with all native SRAM bits since I've never tested both. I would assume it does. I'm liking the option to use <12sp bits w/Wheeltop as I still have old parts I can use up.
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the moment you decide to make it replaceable you need to add thickness to the screw-on cap, a rubber gasket and additional assembly steps at the plant. this way you can make it smaller, flimsier and also not have to do a 5-yr durability study.
Fair enough in theory. But in practice, the Wheeltop pack seems to be of comparable size to the SRAM removable packs. (not certain as I haven't seen in person). And more significantly, you forfeit the reassurance of being able to carry a spare. With AXS, I can easily keep a spare in my pack or swap batteries on a 2x if I run out while riding. Sure, they last long enough that it shouldn't happen if you pay attention unless you're in the boondocks for days. But in reality, it does and people are concerned about the possibility. Shimano's Di2 approach (and the LTWOO eGR) handles this with a large battery so it's really unlikely you will wear it out while in use. It doesn't protect from user error though.
To me, if the claims of 20k shifts per charge are accurate, the fixed, small battery approach on the Wheeltop seems like a good compromise. But I wouldn't trust it until that lifespan is verified. I don't get 20k shifts out of AXS or LTWOO. The spec is also not revealing the drain of simply existing. Keeping the radios alive (when they are) and the motions sensors (to turn it on) all the time. IMO, that standby power drain is non-trivial in the total charge cycle. It seems like the reality of these electronic systems is XXX shifts and/or a month(ish) between charges whichever comes first and a tradeoff. Totally acceptable performance, but important to realize that time is a factor as well.
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Their QC doesn't seem to be much better than Ltwoo, really, so not a huge advantage over Ltwoo really at that price.
The advantage is neither pricing nor QC, it is compatibility with basically any cassette no matter the gears and "AXS-style-shifting-with-easy-to-bleed-non-DOT-brakes"
Something you neither get from LTWOO, nor Shimano, nor SRAM, nor anybody else.
This obviously doesnt mean QC isnt important, but GeX brings much more -at least on paper- than "just another cheapish alternative only worth considering when not able/willing to pay for big brand"
But in reality, it does and people are concerned about the possibility. Shimano's Di2 approach (and the LTWOO eGR) handles this with a large battery so it's really unlikely you will wear it out while in use.
In reality it acutally turns out to be the other way around... if starting full, both systems a very unlikey to run out during a ride, but a small battery you routinely charge at the end of each day/ride is much less likely to be forgotten / not charged in comparison to a very large battery where charging is only required once every few month or so.
I basically never forget to charge my smartphone over night, connecting it when going asleep is a routine like tooth brushing.
But I actually tend to regularly forget charging/changing batteries on my digital scale, tv remote, wallclock, etc. just because of their long run times.
And more significantly, you forfeit the reassurance of being able to carry a spare. With AXS, I can easily keep a spare in my pack or swap batteries on a 2x if I run out while riding.
Or in other words: with AXS you need an expensive seperate proprietary battery in your pack (which then can only be used for your AXS derailleur) while with GeX you could just use the same cheap and widely available USB powerbank which you are very likely to carry in your pack anyways (because it is used for your bike computer, bike lights, smartphone, etc.) plus a probably cheapish and very light/small cable.
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The advantage is neither pricing nor QC, it is compatibility with basically any cassette no matter the gears and "AXS-style-shifting-with-easy-to-bleed-non-DOT-brakes"
Something you neither get from LTWOO, nor Shimano, nor SRAM, nor anybody else.
This obviously doesnt mean QC isnt important, but GeX brings much more -at least on paper- than "just another cheapish alternative only worth considering when not able/willing to pay for big brand"
In reality it acutally turns out to be the other way around... if starting full, both systems a very unlikey to run out during a ride, but a small battery you routinely charge at the end of each day/ride is much less likely to be forgotten / not charged in comparison to a very large battery where charging is only required once every few month or so.
I basically never forget to charge my smartphone over night, connecting it when going asleep is a routine like tooth brushing.
But I actually tend to regularly forget charging/changing batteries on my digital scale, tv remote, wallclock, etc. just because of their long run times.
Or in other words: with AXS you need an expensive seperate proprietary battery in your pack (which then can only be used for your AXS derailleur) while with GeX you could just use the same cheap and widely available USB powerbank which you are very likely to carry in your pack anyways (because it is used for your bike computer, bike lights, smartphone, etc.) plus a probably cheapish and very light/small cable.
Aside from backpacking I don't think many people are carrying a power bank around with them...
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Aside from backpacking I don't think many people are carrying a power bank around with them...
I mean, not on the bike. But a lot of people carry them around when traveling. For the Ltwoo eGR, it doesn't take that long to get some charge in the batteries and a little charge seems to go a long way. If you're that low, 20-30 min on the charger is probably enough to get you through most any reasonable ride, I would think. Before you ride, pull out your power bank and pop it on there, then go fill your water bottles, eat a banana, check your tire pressure, etc. That's not even wasted time.
If you've got a much longer or more challenging ride, just take a little longer, idk.
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Curious what size jockey wheels are used on the EGR? Goldix have a few steel bearing jockey wheels and LTwoo seems to use off-the-shelf parts when possible. Would any of these match?
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803396383834.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803396383834.html)
I finally got around to replacing my gritty jockey wheel last night. I had bought a super cheap aluminum ZTTO branded 13T ball bearing jockey wheel as part of a choice purchase on Ali for less than $2. I was worried it might be too big, but it actually turned out to be smaller than the original. I believe I counted 14t on the Ltwoo wheel. So, close enough to not be an issue. I'm not sure if 15T would fit, but I would think anything 16T or bigger would likely be too big.
13T was fine and the jockey wheel worked for now. I'm afraid that this bearing wasn't sealed, either, and will suffer the same fate as the original once I hit some water and mud. At that point, I'll just replace the bearing since I'm pretty confident I can pop a new one in and out of the wheel and will likely go ahead and do that to the stock one now that I have it out.
I replaced the bottom jockey wheel. Has anyone replaced the top jockey wheel, or even removed it? I can't seem to remove mine. The hardware for the arm is not backing out. I didn't investigate further, but it almost looked like it wasn't designed to simply "unscrew".
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Hi, someone maybe have info if shiffters from EGR work with RD from erx/er9 or shiffters from er9 with RD from EGR?
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Hi, someone maybe have info if shiffters from EGR work with RD from erx/er9 or shiffters from er9 with RD from EGR?
Some people have both groupsets, but no one has taken the time to try it. You wouldn't even need to remove the groupset from either bike, you just need to hold the ER9/EGR RD button and shifter button and see if they'll link up.
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I've got the problem where I can't charge it, AGAIN ::)
OK, resolved. I had to find a wall unit with 5v 2A+, and then use a cocktail stick to clean the central contact point of the charging point on the RD. Now I am getting a charge. That port really needs a cover.
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I've got the problem where I can't charge it, AGAIN ::)
OK, resolved. I had to find a wall unit with 5v 2A+, and then use a cocktail stick to clean the central contact point of the charging point on the RD. Now I am getting a charge. That port really needs a cover.
Yeah, I've had that problem before. Maybe not that extreme, but at least once I thought it was happily charging for hours and then said it was done, only to discover it only had a couple of percent more than when it started.
I've gotten in the habit of giving the port a little wipe with my finger right before I drop the mag plug on it. Seems to be working pretty reliably so far and is easy.
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I've got the problem where I can't charge it, AGAIN ::)
OK, resolved. I had to find a wall unit with 5v 2A+, and then use a cocktail stick to clean the central contact point of the charging point on the RD. Now I am getting a charge. That port really needs a cover.
Just place a small strip of electrical tape. That should protect it.
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Just place a small strip of electrical tape. That should protect it.
Honestly, I'd be just as worried about residue from the electrical tape. You just gotta give it a good wipe before you plop the charger plug down. At least with mud/dirt/dust I can wipe it off, but with ultra sticky tape residue, you'd have to give it a good alcohol rub or something.
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Someone had a problem with charging cable ? Mine doesn’t function anymore. It seems to be electronics because when I plug it into an USB power bank, the power bank seems to shut down immediately.
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I used two sockets and a bench vise and they popped out pretty smoothly. One the same size as the bearing and the other large enough to support the jockey wheel and allow the hearing to pass into. You could make a drift with a bolt and washer and use a socket on the other side for the bearing to pull into.
Take care when pressing the new ones in to make sure they are even. My first attempt the bearing was a bit skewed so I had to remove and redo.
I tried to knock a seized bearing out and the pulley wheel snapped in two. Ah well. Plenty of cheap replacements with better bearings. This groupset is off to the winter bike. Too many problems. Wheeltop GEX on the way for the gravel bike.
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Someone had a problem with charging cable ? Mine doesn’t function anymore. It seems to be electronics because when I plug it into an USB power bank, the power bank seems to shut down immediately.
Lots of people report issues charging when there is some debris or residue on the charging contacts on the rear derailleur. I've had it fail to charge or report fully charged when it's not. You could try to wipe those thoroughly and see if that helps.
If you're sure it's the charger cable, you can order an extra one.
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On 80's store's page the description says "2024 new" - does that mean this is an improved version with better water proofing and what not? Anyone bought this recently and want to share observations...there are two buyers on that page asking the same question, without answers.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806553294324.html
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On 80's store's page the description says "2024 new" - does that mean this is an improved version with better water proofing and what not? Anyone bought this recently and want to share observations...there are two buyers on that page asking the same question, without answers.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806553294324.html
Answer from 80's :
"Dear ROBERT, the waterproof design has been upgraded, but it is recommended that you still be careful when washing the car, especially not with high pressure water gun to wash, thank you."
My name isn't Robert, so I don't really know what they meant by that haha.
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Answer from 80's :
"Dear ROBERT, the waterproof design has been upgraded, but it is recommended that you still be careful when washing the car, especially not with high pressure water gun to wash, thank you."
My name isn't Robert, so I don't really know what they meant by that haha.
Perfect! So they did upgrade something. May be not to the level of Di2 but a welcome step nevertheless.
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You know, everyone talks a lot about the issues with the eR9 and eRX, but I've heard so very, very little about the eGR. I'm guessing they had very little to change and update with a new version. At least, I hope that's the case since I'm an original eGR owner.
I mean, they could redesign some things about it, like increasing the max cassette size (max is currently 48t or 46t, officially, though unofficially it's supposed to fit 50t). They could also tweak software or firmware to add more features that have been requested.
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Firmware, yes, but there are a few frustrations I have:
- Reported charge level is inconsistent
- The torque settings on the arm to the hanger are completely wrong 12Nm will seize it up, when it is supposed to rotate. The upper one that should be tight, comes loose when torqued to 10Nm as specced
- The charge port needs a cover, or the centre part should not be recessed, as even the smallest amount of dirt can stop it charging properly and it isn't that easy to clean, needs a cocktail stick or similar
- It's very easy to get ghost shifts from the levers
- Range should be 50T not 46T
- pulley wheel bearings are junk - if they get wet once they're dead, need replacing immediately
- Stronger magnet needed on charging port
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Firmware, yes, but there are a few frustrations I have:
- Reported charge level is inconsistent
- The torque settings on the arm to the hanger are completely wrong 12Nm will seize it up, when it is supposed to rotate. The upper one that should be tight, comes loose when torqued to 10Nm as specced
- The charge port needs a cover, or the centre part should not be recessed, as even the smallest amount of dirt can stop it charging properly and it isn't that easy to clean, needs a cocktail stick or similar
- It's very easy to get ghost shifts from the levers
- Range should be 50T not 46T
- pulley wheel bearings are junk - if they get wet once they're dead, need replacing immediately
- Stronger magnet needed on charging port
Torque are 10-12 for both on mine, upper is tight, lower is free for me with 12Nm for both.
No ghost shift for me (I have xtar 2.5c batteries)
Pulleys wheels are okay for me but I only did 150km.
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Both of my links (upper and lower) are completely tight with ANY amount of torque. (i.e. as soon as the hardware is tightened, there is friction and the link is locked).
I wonder if I'm somehow missing a bushing or a washer or something? But, it's been like that since I first installed it.
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Yeah if the lower is free at 12Nm, it sounds like me and you are missing something...
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Well...couldn't resist the holiday coupons and pulled the trigger on a eGR group.
I'll keep my GR9 on my current bike as I look for a new gravel frame to put the eGR on. Might actually try something will full cable integration since I don't have to worry about cable routing as much.
Bought from 80 Designer Store as they took care of me when my GR9 group had issues.
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Hi, someone maybe have info if shiffters from EGR work with RD from erx/er9 or shiffters from er9 with RD from EGR?
So yes it works ! And you can have a front derailleur (er9 in my case) with your egr rear derailleur ;)
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I finally installed my eGR I bought during the Black Friday sale. Works great, but I have a huge features request LTwoo should implement. I was previously running 2 wheelsets with both XD and HG cassettes. When I was running mechanical, all it took was a slight adjustment on the barrel adjuster and lower limit screw. It took less than 30 seconds to adjust. Without having wheel profiles, I now have to individually adjust each cassette cog, regardless if they're both 11 speed. I know others have multiple cassette speeds and that's just another issue worth addressing. As it stands, you can only adjust for 1 cassette and 1 speed selection (10, 11, 12, etc.).
Anyways my initial first impressions is that it works great. The one perk with electronic shifting is that every shift is perfect and the improved shifter button haptics on the eGR shift levers are much better. Plus having learned the quirks of the LTwoo system with the eR9, makes me appreciate the subtle improvements on the eGR. Battery-wise, I picked up some cheap blue batteries, but surprisingly they work quite well with no issues. I think LTwoo did themselves a disservice with their shoddy customer service and bad QC on the early batches of eR9/eRX hardware. The engineering is there and for those willing to get their hands dirty, this groupset is an amazing value! I bought my eGR for less than $300 USD! ;D
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I finally installed my eGR I bought during the Black Friday sale. Works great, but I have a huge features request LTwoo should implement. I was previously running 2 wheelsets with both XD and HG cassettes. When I was running mechanical, all it took was a slight adjustment on the barrel adjuster and lower limit screw. It took less than 30 seconds to adjust. Without having wheel profiles, I now have to individually adjust each cassette cog, regardless if they're both 11 speed. I know others have multiple cassette speeds and that's just another issue worth addressing. As it stands, you can only adjust for 1 cassette and 1 speed selection (10, 11, 12, etc.).
Anyways my initial first impressions is that it works great. The one perk with electronic shifting is that every shift is perfect and the improved shifter button haptics on the eGR shift levers are much better. Plus having learned the quirks of the LTwoo system with the eR9, makes me appreciate the subtle improvements on the eGR. Battery-wise, I picked up some cheap blue batteries, but surprisingly they work quite well with no issues. I think LTwoo did themselves a disservice with their shoddy customer service and bad QC on the early batches of eR9/eRX hardware. The engineering is there and for those willing to get their hands dirty, this groupset is an amazing value! I bought my eGR for less than $300 USD! ;D
That has been my use case (11s HG and XDr wheelsets) and it hasn't been an issue for me. Perhaps I just got lucky since both cassettes are from the same manufacturer (Garbaruk). But two thoughts occur to me on how to make this work for you.
1) Maybe one could use a shim to put it in the same lateral position as the other and thus blindly swappable.
2) If you do have to recalibrate between cassettes, did you try only doing the main index change? I made the mistake when first installing of not doing that right and found that using the individual settings 'works' but sucks. By getting the primary right first it works much better and might deal with your issue.
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That has been my use case (11s HG and XDr wheelsets) and it hasn't been an issue for me. Perhaps I just got lucky since both cassettes are from the same manufacturer (Garbaruk). But two thoughts occur to me on how to make this work for you.
1) Maybe one could use a shim to put it in the same lateral position as the other and thus blindly swappable.
2) If you do have to recalibrate between cassettes, did you try only doing the main index change? I made the mistake when first installing of not doing that right and found that using the individual settings 'works' but sucks. By getting the primary right first it works much better and might deal with your issue.
I was tweaking it today and the 2 cassettes I'm running are just too different (ZTTO 9-46t & Sunrace 11-46t) to calibrate. I'll probably replace the Sunrace with another ZTTO cassette, but I'm not really fond of the alloy big cog on that cassette. I had to return one because the alloy cog tooth broke off.
On my wheelset with the ZTTO 9-46t plus gravel slicks, it's not an issue since I don't even use the 46t cog, but I need the 9t for the extra road speed. On the trails I need more durability with my climbing gears and less emphasis on speed. The alloy big cogs on the Sunrace cassette is actually very durable compared to other cassettes I've tried.
If I do shim the cassette, it might be for the ZTTO cassette since I believe XD is just slightly more in-board.
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Did anyone install eGR on a bike with a dropper post? where did you put the battery?
I know there are downtube mounts with a battery installed through the opening under the bb but I don't have that opening in the frame,
The only solution that comes to mind is to just bubble wrap the battery and put it inside of the seat tube once the dropper cable is routed
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Did anyone install eGR on a bike with a dropper post? where did you put the battery?
I know there are downtube mounts with a battery installed through the opening under the bb but I don't have that opening in the frame,
The only solution that comes to mind is to just bubble wrap the battery and put it inside of the seat tube once the dropper cable is routed
Yes. Not ideal. I mounted mine externally. I wrapped the case in heatshrink and used a pump mount to mount it next to the seat tube bottle cage. Then ran the wires along the frame wrapped in silicone self-stick tape (the kind that sticks to itself and doesn't use glue to the frame). Worked fine but kinda fugly. I didn't have the exit holes in the frame anyway so external was the only option (besides drilling).
I've read of some people stashing the battery in the down tube instead. Depending on how your BB is set up that could work well.
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I was tweaking it today and the 2 cassettes I'm running are just too different (ZTTO 9-46t & Sunrace 11-46t) to calibrate. I'll probably replace the Sunrace with another ZTTO cassette, but I'm not really fond of the alloy big cog on that cassette. I had to return one because the alloy cog tooth broke off.
On my wheelset with the ZTTO 9-46t plus gravel slicks, it's not an issue since I don't even use the 46t cog, but I need the 9t for the extra road speed. On the trails I need more durability with my climbing gears and less emphasis on speed. The alloy big cogs on the Sunrace cassette is actually very durable compared to other cassettes I've tried.
If I do shim the cassette, it might be for the ZTTO cassette since I believe XD is just slightly more in-board.
If you're using the 9t that much and not the 46t, you might be better off with a bigger chainring (if it fits)
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If you're using the 9t that much and not the 46t, you might be better off with a bigger chainring (if it fits)
My off-road terrain is all the mountains, but I live close enough I ride from my front door. So there's a balance between decent road speeds and low gear climbing.
I've already tried 40t-thru-44t. I found 38t and xx-46t hits that perfect balance for my area. My ideal cassette would be an all-steel, lightweight 9/10-46t (similar to the Spedao 10-42t), but no one makes it! :(
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Fair enough. I have similar needs but want a LOW LOW gear so run a 10-50 (XDr) and an 11-50 (HG) with a 32t. Yeah, I spin that out over about 22mph/35kph but don't care because on the gravel bike that's downhill anyway ;) I'd get my butt handed to me on a road group ride so I would take a different bike.
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I got caught in some rain with my eGR. The groupset handled the wet weather like a champ. I'm hoping LTwoo will implement the improved weather sealing with their road groupsets! Once you go electronic, especially for gravel, it's hard to go back to mechanical! ;D
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I think I'm finally facing real issues from my earlier crash. See my attached picture.
Since I 'upgraded' to 12sp and put on a 50t cassette, the shifting is a little more sluggish and less refined due to the excessive b-screw distance needed to allow that 50t cassette to fit. If I shift entirely too quickly into the larger cassette rings, it will *sometimes* bind because the jockey wheel moves into position against the cassette before the chain grabs (the chain needs to grab first or else the derailleur doesn't expand and create the room for it to fit). Anyway, I can deal with all that. That's just part of using this system beyond its official, stated capacity. My real issue is that I will occasionally drop my chain at the 1st jockey wheel (green arrow on pic). It happens 100% of the time that this shifting collision has occurred, and at least once otherwise. I can see a tiny bit of weirdness in my jockey wheel arms and I suspect that they were slightly bent or twisted in my crash. 99.9% of the time, I don't have an issue. But, when this happens, it's a big issue. I wish I could procure replacement jockey wheel arms.
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I think I'm finally facing real issues from my earlier crash. See my attached picture.
Since I 'upgraded' to 12sp and put on a 50t cassette, the shifting is a little more sluggish and less refined due to the excessive b-screw distance needed to allow that 50t cassette to fit. If I shift entirely too quickly into the larger cassette rings, it will *sometimes* bind because the jockey wheel moves into position against the cassette before the chain grabs (the chain needs to grab first or else the derailleur doesn't expand and create the room for it to fit). Anyway, I can deal with all that. That's just part of using this system beyond its official, stated capacity. My real issue is that I will occasionally drop my chain at the 1st jockey wheel (green arrow on pic). It happens 100% of the time that this shifting collision has occurred, and at least once otherwise. I can see a tiny bit of weirdness in my jockey wheel arms and I suspect that they were slightly bent or twisted in my crash. 99.9% of the time, I don't have an issue. But, when this happens, it's a big issue. I wish I could procure replacement jockey wheel arms.
I had similar challenges running a 10-50t cassette (yes, that is out of spec). I set the slower shifting and disabled full range auto mode (if I'm not confusing the specific options) to keep from ramming the derailleur up against the 50t cog while shifting. I'm fairly certain that one of the compatibility constraints is the angle and shape of the travel as it goes from small to big. It wasn't made to push the jockey wheel down enough as it goes all the way inboard since they didn't design it for 50t. Go one cog at a time, and the chain motion seems to be able to make it happen fine. But try to express shift and it is likely to jam at least partially.
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I had similar challenges running a 10-50t cassette (yes, that is out of spec). I set the slower shifting and disabled full range auto mode (if I'm not confusing the specific options) to keep from ramming the derailleur up against the 50t cog while shifting. I'm fairly certain that one of the compatibility constraints is the angle and shape of the travel as it goes from small to big. It wasn't made to push the jockey wheel down enough as it goes all the way inboard since they didn't design it for 50t. Go one cog at a time, and the chain motion seems to be able to make it happen fine. But try to express shift and it is likely to jam at least partially.
Yep! Exactly right. Again, we're using it out of spec and it still works (mostly) fine, but with the extra space required on the b-screw it's not as snappy and responsive to shift as it was before.
On a happy note, 80's Designer store seems to have agreed to sell me replacement "wheel guides and wheel", so I'll soon find out if that's the part I think it is. I shared the same image where I circled the lower parts and that's what they replied back with. I'll update when I receive them. Whether it works or not, it's another example of 80s Designer Store being the #1 best store to buy this groupset from, as their response has been fast and I'm really happy they are willing and able to sell replacement parts for it.
Edit: (added picture provided by 80s Designer Store showing what they are providing)
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Has anyone tried a Goatlink/hanger extender with the eGR? I could imagine it’d give the b screw just a little bit more leeway to clear a 50t big cog.
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Has anyone tried a Goatlink/hanger extender with the eGR? I could imagine it’d give the b screw just a little bit more leeway to clear a 50t big cog.
Good question. I considered it but on my bike the hanger and B-screw were enough to put it in the right place. Might not be true with other hangers.
But I don't think the Goatlink (or similar) will help the 'too steep a ramp' problem on the out-of-spec 50t. Or at least not without possibly making for problematic shifting on the smaller cogs by holding it too far away.
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Yeah goatlink doesn't help. You can get enough clearance with the B screw but the overall shifting is compromised. I would 100% suggest Wheeltop if you need to run 50T.
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Just to confirm, is the Wheeltop Gex the same RD just with longer cage to clear the bigger cassette? From the looks of it, if the eGR cage is removable, then it can accommodate a long cage for better in-spec 50t shifting, correct? Similar how you can swap out the cage on a GRX 812 RD for a Garbaruk cage.
If so, either LTwoo or another vendor should design a different cage for the eGR. :)
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On a happy note, 80's Designer store seems to have agreed to sell me replacement "wheel guides and wheel", so I'll soon find out if that's the part I think it is. I shared the same image where I circled the lower parts and that's what they replied back with. I'll update when I receive them. Whether it works or not, it's another example of 80s Designer Store being the #1 best store to buy this groupset from, as their response has been fast and I'm really happy they are willing and able to sell replacement parts for it.
Edit: (added picture provided by 80s Designer Store showing what they are providing)
Good to know spare parts are available instead of just having to replace the whole unit. I could've saved a little money with another vendor, but this after sales care is why I also bought mine from 80 designer store.
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If so, either LTwoo or another vendor should design a different cage for the eGR. :)
Well, I'm about to find out. 80s designer store just sold me a replacement cage for mine that was likely damaged.
The funny thing is, Ltwoo sells "upgrade" derailleur cage assemblies for most other popular groupsets by Shimano and maybe Sram, but not for their own derailleurs! Which, maybe made sense when they were selling "budget" groupsets, but now they're selling "premium" groupsets I would have thought they'd make some bling parts for people who are into that sorta thing.
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Just to confirm, is the Wheeltop Gex the same RD just with longer cage to clear the bigger cassette? From the looks of it, if the eGR cage is removable, then it can accommodate a long cage for better in-spec 50t shifting, correct? Similar how you can swap out the cage on a GRX 812 RD for a Garbaruk cage.
If so, either LTwoo or another vendor should design a different cage for the eGR. :)
Wheeltop offers the GeX with two cage lengths one rated to 46t and one to 51t (the one I'm also using). I've heard second-hand that they've said it should work on 52t also but they had some problems on some bikes and decided not so officially support that.
More importantly, the GeX is a different RD than the road TX version. So likely the geometry in the main links is different to allow for a wider range cassette as well. The TX only supports 36t
Given that the LTWOO eGR DOES work up to 50t, just not optimally, I'm not sure a longer cage would help all that much. I haven't observed problems with chain wrap (taking up the slack) which is usually what is helped with a long cage. For example, tike the Garbaruk one I had on a Force RD before the LTWOO to reach 50t. It also DID work, but didn't shift quite as slickly as I would have liked (and why I'm playing with other options) I think it is a geometry challenge in the motion that leaves the upper jockey wheel either too close to the 50t or too far from the 11t
To be clear, the LTWOO does work all the way to 50t. It is just not optimal. You must step one cog at a time in the last couple. For rated capacity and a Di2 prepped frame, I'd happily use it again (and it's sitting on a shelf with that intent)
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I just ordered a eGr from 80s Designer Store, looking forward to it arriving as I've been contemplating ordering since release.
Has anyone ordered the latest version and can confirm that it comes with post nount calipers? A very strange change to make in 2024 if you ask me. Been runing gr9 for a year so I know all about their issues with their own bolt scheme. Maybe I'll just go with some Shimanos this time.
Anyone know what design the 14500 batteries should have? (piece sticking out or flat)
Any other recommendations when installing?
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I just ordered a eGr from 80s Designer Store, looking forward to it arriving as I've been contemplating ordering since release.
Has anyone ordered the latest version and can confirm that it comes with post nount calipers? A very strange change to make in 2024 if you ask me. Been runing gr9 for a year so I know all about their issues with their own bolt scheme. Maybe I'll just go with some Shimanos this time.
Anyone know what design the 14500 batteries should have? (piece sticking out or flat)
Any other recommendations when installing?
My eGR arrived a week or so ago. Calipers look similar to my GR9 ones. Spacing seems to be 70mm on both gr9 and eGR. Was GR9 originally flat mount?
Here’s a pic of the battery it came with…even though I selected the no battery option.
EDIT: It seems the mounting hardware is different from GR9 to eGR. Not sure if that's what makes it post mount instead of flat.
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I just ordered a eGr from 80s Designer Store, looking forward to it arriving as I've been contemplating ordering since release.
Has anyone ordered the latest version and can confirm that it comes with post nount calipers? A very strange change to make in 2024 if you ask me. Been runing gr9 for a year so I know all about their issues with their own bolt scheme. Maybe I'll just go with some Shimanos this time.
Anyone know what design the 14500 batteries should have? (piece sticking out or flat)
Any other recommendations when installing?
I'm almost positive you need the ones with the little nub (not the flat ones). Also, probably best to get one without any kind of circuit board or other fancy internal features.
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Yep! Exactly right. Again, we're using it out of spec and it still works (mostly) fine, but with the extra space required on the b-screw it's not as snappy and responsive to shift as it was before.
On a happy note, 80's Designer store seems to have agreed to sell me replacement "wheel guides and wheel", so I'll soon find out if that's the part I think it is. I shared the same image where I circled the lower parts and that's what they replied back with. I'll update when I receive them. Whether it works or not, it's another example of 80s Designer Store being the #1 best store to buy this groupset from, as their response has been fast and I'm really happy they are willing and able to sell replacement parts for it.
Edit: (added picture provided by 80s Designer Store showing what they are providing)
This is exactly what I need after I bent the cage. How much did it set you back?
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This is exactly what I need after I bent the cage. How much did it set you back?
$30 + tax. I think it worked out to be about $33 exactly.
I had reached out to them via Ali Express message to ask about it.
They sent me some kind of Ali Express invoice or code or something to purchase $15 "Extra Fee". They instructed me via message to purchase qty 2 of them = $30. Once it processed it seems to be proceeding like any other order with tracking numbers and everything else. They sent me more pics at that point to show them packaged up and shipping.
I'll try and post pics when I receive it and install it and generally update about the process of changing them. Fingers crossed that I don't run into any issues. I have a gravel race this weekend, so hopefully it holds out long enough to ride that and I can receive shortly after that to have it ready in time for the next one.
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My eGR arrived a week or so ago. Calipers look similar to my GR9 ones. Spacing seems to be 70mm on both gr9 and eGR. Was GR9 originally flat mount?
Here’s a pic of the battery it came with…even though I selected the no battery option.
EDIT: It seems the mounting hardware is different from GR9 to eGR. Not sure if that's what makes it post mount instead of flat.
Here's to hoping. The listing specifically said post mount. Also great news about the battery. Hopefully mine comes with one too.
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Here's to hoping. The listing specifically said post mount. Also great news about the battery. Hopefully mine comes with one too.
If I'm not mistaken the calipers themselves are indeed post mount, but the hardware makes them compatible with flat mount. That's how they get around patents.
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If they're anything like my GR9 then they're neither but Ltwoo's own standard, to avoid paying Shimano. 73 mm (I think). They came with mounting hardware but not one that would work on my current fork, and several others have also had the same issue. We'll see. I would not be that annoyed having to get some Ultegra calipers used or something like that.
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Any one have a chance to try an AXS cassette? AKA an XPLR or 10-36? I’m curious if these can be micro adjusted to shift one well. With a flattop chain and SRAM X Sync chainring.
I am keen to know if anyone has this setup, ifworks well and if you need to change the pulley wheels to suit the flattop chain?
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I am keen to know if anyone has this setup, ifworks well and if you need to change the pulley wheels to suit the flattop chain?
I'd like to know this as well. There are some attractive SRAM cassette options.
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Recived now. Works flawless straight out of the box. We'll see when I install it. Still deciding on frame. Same breaks as Garza, same mounting as the GR9 ones. As long as they fit confidently on the fork on the new bike, no problem. Think I'll try findiing replacement charge and connection cables, would suck to f one up and wait for weeks for a replacement.
Any suggestions for replacement pulley wheels? 11 speed gravel cassettes?
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Any suggestions for replacement pulley wheels? 11 speed gravel cassettes?
So far I'm pretty happy with my cheapo 12sp Sunshine 11-50 alloy cassette. It's super lightweight, considering the size and shifts mostly pretty smooth. I've seen the same one under a few different brand names, I think, incluidng Goldix. Be warned, though, the eGR will work with 50t, but it isn't the best option. The shifting suffers in the highest gears because the b-screw needs so much room to clear, but you also suffer in the lowest gears because if you shift too quickly the pulley wheel will actually strike the cassette.
I know you were asking for 11t options, but I only brought it up because I was surprised that such a dirt cheap cassette works so dang well.
Edit: I believe I have this one, in the 12sp 11-50 configuration. You may want to consider the 11-46 11sp configuration, or maybe see if you can find an 11-48t cassette somewhere.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805811005103.html
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I have that one in 11-46 11 speed actually. Ordered during a sale this fall but never got to install it before winter (Scandinavia).
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Had a little fun yesterday in the snowmageddon (US deep south, not used to this stuff).
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Battery mounting question:
I'm moving my eGR to a new bike that can actually route the wire from the seatpost through the frame to the RD (the previous frame, I had to mount it externally, yuck). I'm trying to figure out how to secure the battery in the seatpost.
- Is there a fit kit that came with it I need to root around in my garage for?
- Will normal Di2 fit kits work?
- What other tricks have people used?
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Battery mounting question:
I'm moving my eGR to a new bike that can actually route the wire from the seatpost through the frame to the RD (the previous frame, I had to mount it externally, yuck). I'm trying to figure out how to secure the battery in the seatpost.
- Is there a fit kit that came with it I need to root around in my garage for?
- Will normal Di2 fit kits work?
- What other tricks have people used?
I just cut the bubble wrap that came with the groupset and taped it around the battery holder. I tied ribbon to the battery holder just in case it gets stuck in the seat post. No issues either with my gravel bike and 27.2mm seat post. It stays snug.
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I just cut the bubble wrap that came with the groupset and taped it around the battery holder. I tied ribbon to the battery holder just in case it gets stuck in the seat post. No issues either with my gravel bike and 27.2mm seat post. It stays snug.
Good to know. It's a 27.2 and I was thinking of something similar (soft closed cell foam) but had not thought of the safety string. Where did you attach that so it doesn't just drop down?
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Good to know. It's a 27.2 and I was thinking of something similar (soft closed cell foam) but had not thought of the safety string. Where did you attach that so it doesn't just drop down?
There's indented sections on both the top and bottom of the battery holder. Ribbon seems to work for me since it's flat, easy to grab and can be tied/removed with little effort.
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Ahh. Although I was actually concerned about the 'other end' that you'd have to pull on to retrieve the battery
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Ahh. Although I was actually concerned about the 'other end' that you'd have to pull on to retrieve the battery
You can make that ribbon longer, just in case the ribbon on the lower end comes off. It's more of a redundancy. :)
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Rapid drain or charge status failure
I did get my eGR remounted properly in the seatpost (vs external before) of the new (to me) bike. Thanks for the advice earlier. So much nicer looking that way.
BUT, I got an unhappy surprise on my ride today when it died. I last checked via app about a week ago and it showed 65% I went on a 41 mile ride and hung it upside down for a few days. Went out this morning and it died 2 miles in. Once I applied power and could reconnect it was indeed at 4% dead.
So it appears that one of two things happened:
1) 65% indicated is erroneous and should be considered very low. FWIW, I reinstalled it showing 74% and did not charge at that time. 71 miles later it showed 65% which seemed pretty reasonable. Deat at 112 miles. (I don't have shift count but that 41miles in between was a heavier than average shifting exercise. Note: I took the 'bring your own battery cell' approach when ordered. So I'm aware that a different cell than the manufacturer calibrated on (even in spec) could be the problem. But I suspect a lot of people buy it this way since the LiOn shipping costs are so high.
2) A wild theory: Hanging it upside down for storage keeps the motion-sensing RD alive and drains the battery. PURE THEORY but it seems possible.
Does anyone have thoughts?
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Rapid drain or charge status failure
So it appears that one of two things happened:
1) 65% indicated is erroneous and should be considered very low. FWIW, I reinstalled it showing 74% and did not charge at that time. 71 miles later it showed 65% which seemed pretty reasonable. Deat at 112 miles. (I don't have shift count but that 41miles in between was a heavier than average shifting exercise. Note: I took the 'bring your own battery cell' approach when ordered. So I'm aware that a different cell than the manufacturer calibrated on (even in spec) could be the problem. But I suspect a lot of people buy it this way since the LiOn shipping costs are so high.
2) A wild theory: Hanging it upside down for storage keeps the motion-sensing RD alive and drains the battery. PURE THEORY but it seems possible.
Does anyone have thoughts?
1) This may be dependent on your battery. But I can regularly get MANY more than 112 miles out of a charge. Also, 65% is not anywhere near dead for me. Again, assuming your unit is otherwise not damaged, it could be that your battery cells are responsible for this.
2) I can't speak for hanging "upside down", but I sometimes store mine by hanging it 90deg against a wall (hanging it on a wall by the front wheel) and I have not experienced any draining.
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I just got back from a weekend bug out in the desert. I threw all of nature at my LTwoo EGR and the groupset held up like a champ. At this point if people are having issues with their hardware, please just use your local bike shop! Blows my mind with all the whiny cyclists on this forum who start raging when life gets a bit difficult! ::)
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Hi,
will this groupset fit for my TanTan GR040 (http://www.tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=841 (http://www.tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=841)) with flat mount holes?
Many thanks, Dennis
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Hi,
will this groupset fit for my TanTan GR040 (http://www.tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=841 (http://www.tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=841)) with flat mount holes?
Many thanks, Dennis
It should fit fine. Worst case scenario is that you'll have a very close fit trying to tighten the screws on the rear brake adapter + caliper. Also don't over tighten the screws on the adapter plates, I've already stripped the thread on two of them. I bought extra adapter plates from 80 Design store as backup. It's the only downside to the eGR brake caliper design, despite being very good brakes (probably the best I've tried).
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Sooooo, is anybody else having problems charging your system?
Everytime I have to charge my eGR, it is a hassle. Twice I've had it started only to come back later and find that it didn't charge. Not only that but trying to get a connection is maddening. It just doesn't want to.
So what have I tried:
- I have two cables and both have the same challenges. I know to check the USB A side and make sure to have a green light before trying. (I do forget between times that when it is charging, that changes to red)
- I make a point to clean the contact on the RD. (Please tell me why an exposed contact is facing up?) I also clean the cable end. I've used fingers, towel, a soft brush etc.
- Repeated attempts to make contact. The magnet snaps but over and over no light. Or a brief light then nothing
Any tips? Am I doing something wrong? Is this a defect I should be trying to warranty?
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Sooooo, is anybody else having problems charging your system?
Everytime I have to charge my eGR, it is a hassle. Twice I've had it started only to come back later and find that it didn't charge. Not only that but trying to get a connection is maddening. It just doesn't want to.
So what have I tried:
- I have two cables and both have the same challenges. I know to check the USB A side and make sure to have a green light before trying. (I do forget between times that when it is charging, that changes to red)
- I make a point to clean the contact on the RD. (Please tell me why an exposed contact is facing up?) I also clean the cable end. I've used fingers, towel, a soft brush etc.
- Repeated attempts to make contact. The magnet snaps but over and over no light. Or a brief light then nothing
Any tips? Am I doing something wrong? Is this a defect I should be trying to warranty?
Clean your battery cable and RD magnetic port. I periodically wipe both down with a cotton swab and alcohol. After camping trips, my RD is very dirty so I find the alcohol does the trick cleaning debris on the magnetic port.
This should hopefully fix your issue! ;)
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Clean your battery cable and RD magnetic port. I periodically wipe both down with a cotton swab and alcohol. After camping trips, my RD is very dirty so I find the alcohol does the trick cleaning debris on the magnetic port.
This should hopefully fix your issue! ;)
Unfortunately, I have done both several times, on both cables I have. Still unstable. If I keep trying it over and over it will eventually connect
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Sooooo, is anybody else having problems charging your system?
Everytime I have to charge my eGR, it is a hassle. Twice I've had it started only to come back later and find that it didn't charge. Not only that but trying to get a connection is maddening. It just doesn't want to.
So what have I tried:
- I have two cables and both have the same challenges. I know to check the USB A side and make sure to have a green light before trying. (I do forget between times that when it is charging, that changes to red)
- I make a point to clean the contact on the RD. (Please tell me why an exposed contact is facing up?) I also clean the cable end. I've used fingers, towel, a soft brush etc.
- Repeated attempts to make contact. The magnet snaps but over and over no light. Or a brief light then nothing
Any tips? Am I doing something wrong? Is this a defect I should be trying to warranty?
I had this problem and it turned out that it needed a powerful wall unit (like you have for a smartphone) and it wouldn't charge properly off a weaker unit or a laptop usb port, for example.
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Unfortunately, I have done both several times, on both cables I have. Still unstable. If I keep trying it over and over it will eventually connect
I'm with you, it's just shit. Very frustrating, even when using a legit charger plugged into the wall rather than a battery pack.
I'm running a new ERX RD, and the charging is still shit.
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I just apply a bit of pressure on the battery connector and wait for the light to start flashing. Clean my connectors on a regular basis with an alcohol damp swab. All three of my LTwoo groupsets have been holding up.
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Some great discounts available on aliexpress right now, especially if you use all of the available vouchers and cashback.
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New Version of LTWOO eGR Derailleur?
So, I wrote to my reseller (80 Designer Store on Aliexpress) about the charge problem. They promptly replied offering a warranty replacement for a nominal shipping charge ($15). Deal. But they 'warned' me that they only had the new, 10-50t version. Uhhhh, excuse me? Sure, send it. Awesome response
It arrived today (about a week). It is indeed a different version. The cage now measures 90mm bolt to bolt where the original one was only 83mm. That seems to suggest that it could support 50t now. But I cannot fine ANY reference to such a thing anywhere in the English web. The LTWOO mechanical RD can do it but the product page still says 46t for eGR. I cannot observe any other differences to the earlier version (delivered in May 2024). It does weigh 15g more and 7mm of cage doesn't account for that. The app does not differentiate their versions either.
Has anyone else heard of an update. I've been looking at reports from Taipei bike show but nobody has mentioned it that I've seen yet.
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Lucky find! I think that's news to everyone. Any other obvious visual differences or just a longer cage?
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I can't see anything and I've looked at them side by side.
What I have noticed is that it works with my 10-50 WAY better. (Yes, I know I was running it out of spec). I haven't had it on the road yet but what I've noticed is:
- Almost no B screw tension to put it in position on a 50t. With V1, it needed nearly full extension
- On the stand, shifting at the bigger cogs seems crisper
- The initial calibration point is WAY off. But it was on the V1 as well. The position for gear 1 lines up about the 5th cog. Easy enough to fix with the initial calibration but it makes one think it's messed up at first. Once calibrated, no micro adjustment needed on a Garbuaruk 11s
We'll see on the road tomorrow I hope.
(http://)
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I wonder if it's possible to swap out the cage on the V1 using the longer V2 cage? Has anyone tried it?
Also I saw one of the AliEx sellers having listed the eGR has having 50t max cog. So I'm wondering if this update has silently been implemented without anyone noticing?
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I wonder if it's possible to swap out the cage on the V1 using the longer V2 cage? Has anyone tried it?
Also I saw one of the AliEx sellers having listed the eGR has having 50t max cog. So I'm wondering if this update has silently been implemented without anyone noticing?
I don't know, but about 2 months ago I ordered a replacement cage from 80's Designer Store and I haven't actually put it on yet. I'm going to go check it tonight to see if it's an exact replacement for the original or if there are any differences. I suspect the differences run much deeper than just a longer cage, though, since I don't even think the cage was fully removable and the parts I received were only one side of it (one of the reasons I didn't put it on yet).
Edit: I just pulled it out to compare, and the replacement cage I ordered is an exact copy of the original. Also, again, confirmed that it's really just one side of the cage so it's of limited use if I actually completely bork the cage in another crash.
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I bought an additional wheeltop groupset just because I needed the 50T capacity ::) ah well.
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I bought an additional wheeltop groupset just because I needed the 50T capacity ::) ah well.
I was super tempted to get one of those discounted Wheeltop GeX groupsets on AliEx just for the 50t. Though if LTwoo is going full wireless with the MTB eTX, I might just go with that since I do like LTwoo's app fine-tuning.
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This listing has total capacity listed as 50t. So I'm guessing they just secretly put a longer RD cage without telling anyone!
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806450112754.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806450112754.html)
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I can't see anything and I've looked at them side by side.
What I have noticed is that it works with my 10-50 WAY better. (Yes, I know I was running it out of spec). I haven't had it on the road yet but what I've noticed is:
- Almost no B screw tension to put it in position on a 50t. With V1, it needed nearly full extension
- On the stand, shifting at the bigger cogs seems crisper
- The initial calibration point is WAY off. But it was on the V1 as well. The position for gear 1 lines up about the 5th cog. Easy enough to fix with the initial calibration but it makes one think it's messed up at first. Once calibrated, no micro adjustment needed on a Garbuaruk 11s
We'll see on the road tomorrow I hope.
(http://)
So it’s plug and play with the rest of the V1 components?
I’m interested to hear how you go with this!
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So it’s plug and play with the rest of the V1 components?
I’m interested to hear how you go with this!
Should be. LTwoo is mostly cross-compatible across the board with components.
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So it’s plug and play with the rest of the V1 components?
I’m interested to hear how you go with this!
I can find no indication of it being an officially different version (other than the cage length). And it plugged straight in to the existing power and paired right up with the shifters.