Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29er => Topic started by: gleini on February 01, 2015, 06:05:04 AM
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Since mine Stevens S7 bicycle has seen its better days I decided to build a new 29er and reuse some of the parts from the bike. Since I´m a student it was important to keep the costs down.
My choice of frame ended up in the Flyxii FR-216 19" UD matt. I liked the geometry and design much better than the IP-057. When the sum ended up at 500$ for the frame, fork, seatpost and handlebar it was a easy choice.
I was thinking of reusing the brakes from the Stevens. Since I´m going for a details in red, including brake hoses I ended up to buy a set of SLX-M675 brakes that had been taken of a new bike for 80$.
I got the frame on my door in Norway 7 days after I ordered it from China, with free shipping. I also bought Shimano MT66 wheelset with tires used once for 240$. The wheelset is the first one to be upgraded when I can afford it.
So I ended up to just reuse my drivechain(casette, crank, front gear and rear derailleur) and disc brake rotors from my old bike. The total cost will end up around 900$.
Following is some pictures of the receieved frame and accessories. Rest of the parts are scheduled to arrive in the coming week. So I hope the bike will be ready in 2-3 weeks.
A question I`ve noticed:
- The headset has plastic bearings. How durable is plastic as material in headsets?
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Frame weight.
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$900 USD is a very inexpensive build. The FR-216 has been around a while and has been very popular as a very inexpensive frame you can easily get off eBay with free shipping.
Thanks for posting, enjoy your new bike!
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nice 8) The frame seems awesome, keep the news coming.
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Can you post a picture of the headset bearing? Not sure which parts of it might be plastic.
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Can you post a picture of the headset bearing? Not sure which parts of it might be plastic.
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You mean the headset cups,which are part of the frame? Not sure if those are plastic, or aluminum with an oxide or some other coating. If they are plastic, I wouldn't have a problem as long as everything is aligned correctly and the actual bearings fit correctly (and they use an appropriate material, of course).
Can someone from iPlay comment on what material their headset cups are made of, and how they are installed- molded in, or glued in afterward?
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My guess is they are black anodized aluminum and they are molded into the frame during manufacture. At least that's what I remember from when I built up my bikes.
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Do I need to pressfit the headset? Or is it just to put them in the frame and insert the fork?
The headset: http://www.aerozinebike.com/pro_5_113.html
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If you have the correct size headset, it will drop in. No press fit required.
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Thank you Carbon_dude, it seems like it will slip right in. Since I never have put together a bike before I didn´t know how it is done.
Got my package with the parts today, so its building time! Hopefully, if I´m not getting any trouble it should be ready this weekend!
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That looks like most of what you will need.
You might need some extra brake line barbs & olives, if you've not shortened hydraulic lines before, it's a task that's a bit involved and easy to mess up. As has been discussed before, a torque wrench with hex & torx bits is always a good idea if you have any carbon parts besides the frame.
Be patient, you will learn a lot building your own bike. Also, don't expect to get it all done in a day or two, inevitably you will need something for your bike and a LBS may not have what you need in stock.
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Some trouble installing the headset. The bottom headset fitted perfectly, but the upper headset seems to have some slack. When I have installed the headset it does not fit 100%, it´s seems like it is some micrometers too small. Is it just to press it more down? I will upload some pictures later today.
Have anyone else experienced this problem?
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There have been one or two people who have mentioned one of the headset bearings fitting tightly into the frame. All they did was clean out the integrated race as there was some epoxy left behind from the manufacturing process.
Hopefully that's all the problem is and not a problem with having the wrong size headset bearing.
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Here´s a video of the problem. As you can hear (and see?) it is possible to move the bearings some micrometers. Is there anything that I have missed? Do you need to pressfit the bearing, or should it just slide into place?
View My Video (http://tinypic.com/r/2q22y3o/8)
And here some photos of the bearings and steeringtube.
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Sorry, I missed that your are saying your headset is loose, not tight.
If you have a set of calipers, measure the cup versus the bearing. I found my to be a little loose on my IP-036 but when I looked up the spec, I found that both were just barley in spec, however, my cup was on the large side and my bearing was on the small side. However, I don't think the difference was nearly as much as yours. It's possible you have the wrong size top headset bearing.
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Sorry, I missed that your are saying your headset is loose, not tight.
If you have a set of calipers, measure the cup versus the bearing. I found my to be a little loose on my IP-036 but when I looked up the spec, I found that both were just barley in spec, however, my cup was on the large side and my bearing was on the small side. However, I don't think the difference was nearly as much as yours. It's possible you have the wrong size top headset bearing.
I would be odd if the headset bearing is a smaller size since it´s just some few micrometers slack. For me it seems like poor frame job. Specially since the lower bearing fitted perfect.
I have postet some threads on different forums, hoping to find someone that have had the same problem.
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Your fist step is to measure your cup and your bearing. According to CaneCreek, the are four bearing sizes for an integrated headset. Take the two measurements, the OD of your bearing, the ID of your frame, then we can help you figure out what you need. The cup in your frame is a standard off the shelf part so unless that part was made wrong, your probably just need the correct bearing size.
See below:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v193/S2k_Dude/Carbon%2029er/integratedheadsettopbearing.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/S2k_Dude/media/Carbon%2029er/integratedheadsettopbearing.jpg.html)
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Your fist step is to measure your cup and your bearing. According to CaneCreek, the are four bearing sizes for an integrated headset. Take the two measurements, the OD of your bearing, the ID of your frame, then we can help you figure out what you need. The cup in your frame is a standard off the shelf part so unless that part was made wrong, your probably just need the correct bearing size.
See below:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v193/S2k_Dude/Carbon%2029er/integratedheadsettopbearing.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/S2k_Dude/media/Carbon%2029er/integratedheadsettopbearing.jpg.html)
Thank you for the picture! I will get a caliper tomorrow and get exact measurements.
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Problem solved!
Nobody told me that I had to cut the forkpipe and install the star nut to compress the headset. Works like a charm now! But thanks for the help @Carbon_dude. Definitely learning from this bike build.
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did you get a carbon fork?
and a "standard" star nut? like this one:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/images/starnut.jpg
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Given this is a "budget build", I doubt the steer tube on his fork is carbon so using a star nut is fine.
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Given this is a "budget build", I doubt the steer tube on his fork is carbon so using a star nut is fine.
But the last photo on his first post looks like the back of a carbon fork, so it might be.
outriding9800's concern is that you shouldn't use a hammer-in star nut with a carbon fork, and if you've put one in... that might not be good.
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From what I know the forktube is carbonfiber with a thin alutube on the inside And I used a star-nut.
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From what I know the forktube is carbonfiber with a thin alutube on the inside And I used a star-nut.
Ah, with the aluminum liner tube, it'd be okay. Good. I think star nut vs. carbon might be bad.