Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: Manfrotto on June 13, 2024, 01:42:46 AM
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After long deliberation and a lot of comparisons, ordered the C5 in Roubaix colour. Any tips on Ali Express sites for groupsets appreciated. Looking for wireless Di2 Ultegra. Probably will not worry about a crankset because will get a Magene spider power meter.
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Check out Merlin cycles. They have the best prices on shimano and actually have sales on the Di2 stuff. Usually their groups come with a crank but you could always sell it. They rival Ali express in price and for me in the US at least the shipping is like 2 days vs a a few weeks. Plus it is all legit and covered by warranty since it is an actual shop selling it.
Otherwise just search Ali express ad piece together what you want. Most sellers tend to have and then not have stock so I have to source from different ones each time I am looking.
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I've bought grey market groups on Ebay for both Shimano and Sram, last one was 105 Di2 with good luck.
Massive discount with the caveat that there is most likely no warranty.
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After long deliberation and a lot of comparisons, ordered the C5 in Roubaix colour. Any tips on Ali Express sites for groupsets appreciated. Looking for wireless Di2 Ultegra. Probably will not worry about a crankset because will get a Magene spider power meter.
I'd probably go the Ebay or used route for Ultegra Di2. 105 Di2 seems plentiful on AliEx though.
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Check out Merlin cycles. They have the best prices on shimano and actually have sales on the Di2 stuff. Usually their groups come with a crank but you could always sell it. They rival Ali express in price and for me in the US at least the shipping is like 2 days vs a a few weeks. Plus it is all legit and covered by warranty since it is an actual shop selling it.
Otherwise just search Ali express ad piece together what you want. Most sellers tend to have and then not have stock so I have to source from different ones each time I am looking.
Yeah good point. Been waiting 4 months for Merlin to get 165mm cranks. So I guess I could just suck it up and sell the 170s when they arrive
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Keep us update on the build and please let us know how the bike rides. I'm also interested in this bike but can't find many reviews on it.
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Yeah good point. Been waiting 4 months for Merlin to get 165mm cranks. So I guess I could just suck it up and sell the 170s when they arrive
165mm cranks have been sold out or on back order for ages. Has everyone been moving to 165mm length cranks? Is there a fad or some recent sport science that came out showing clear benefit of 165? Or is it just the upcoming Tour de France and Olympics that teams are hoarding them? Just a few thoughts I've had.
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Probably just lower supply because of the outdated standard of 170+ cranks
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After long deliberation and a lot of comparisons, ordered the C5 in Roubaix colour. Any tips on Ali Express sites for groupsets appreciated. Looking for wireless Di2 Ultegra. Probably will not worry about a crankset because will get a Magene spider power meter.
Just a note about the magene PM. I have the PES P505 base, and with 105 di2 the front derailleur will sit really close to the crankarm less than 1mm gap, no matter how you adjust it, to avoid chain rub. This wasn't an issue on 105 11 speed.
I've seen on forums like weightweenies, people has also complained about this with this crankset. Just so you are aware.
I've tried spacing it out, but that didn't help :/
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165mm cranks have been sold out or on back order for ages. Has everyone been moving to 165mm length cranks? Is there a fad or some recent sport science that came out showing clear benefit of 165? Or is it just the upcoming Tour de France and Olympics that teams are hoarding them? Just a few thoughts I've had.
This is the "pogacar effect". Everybody wants shorter cranks now.
In my case 165 for road bike feels more natural, is great for cadence, without thinking i gain between 5 and 10 rpm, a bit easier to accelerate and put immediate power.
For me it's another way to pedal and produce power with more cadence so less torque to apply.
On mtb i will probably stick to 170 because it's harder to just sit and pedal 90-100 rpm, but i'm probably sure i won't go back bigger crank arms.
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Just a note about the magene PM. I have the PES P505 base, and with 105 di2 the front derailleur will sit really close to the crankarm less than 1mm gap, no matter how you adjust it, to avoid chain rub. This wasn't an issue on 105 11 speed.
I've seen on forums like weightweenies, people has also complained about this with this crankset. Just so you are aware.
I've tried spacing it out, but that didn't help :/
You been happy with the magene?
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Probably just lower supply because of the outdated standard of 170+ cranks
no it is the correct size for short people.
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Everything ordered.
- 9Velo wheels. Used the Hambini 10% off.
Hambini BB
Ali Express for Lizard Skin bar tape, Ryet 3D saddle, carbon bottle cage holders, TPU tubes, pedals, chain stay protector
Facebook market place got a brand new Dura Ace 9200 groupset for half price after an aborted build by a guy
Transferring the 165 cranks off my BMC and will put the 170s back on to sell it
tyres the only thing I bought local and found a 10% coupon for P7 Pirellis.
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Just a note about the magene PM. I have the PES P505 base, and with 105 di2 the front derailleur will sit really close to the crankarm less than 1mm gap, no matter how you adjust it, to avoid chain rub. This wasn't an issue on 105 11 speed.
I've seen on forums like weightweenies, people has also complained about this with this crankset. Just so you are aware.
I've tried spacing it out, but that didn't help :/
I just added a 2mm shim on the drivetrain side and it resolved the issue for me. The Magene has a different crankarm shape than Shimano plus a 1mm smaller Q factor makes it tight
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You been happy with the magene?
Overall yes, it is differently good for the money. I've had it for over a year now.
There has been no issues with the app, or calibration. Never lost connection or anything.
If I were to put some negatives on it it would be:
- Power meter spider has proprietary to magene crank interface, so you cannot swap crankset with this powermeter.
- The preload bolt has a tendency to come loose, after you torque the crank arm bolt, the manual says to torque the preload bolt to 10nm. But it still comes lose after 10> rides. Might try some locktight to resolve it.
- I can't tell for sure, but looking down on the power meter, it seems to flex when I push hard down on the pedal from the right side. It looks like the chainring is moving towards the front derraileur making it rub
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I just added a 2mm shim on the drivetrain side and it resolved the issue for me. The Magene has a different crankarm shape than Shimano plus a 1mm smaller Q factor makes it tight
Are you using 105 di2 FD? And how long or your crankarm?
I've added 1mm shim to the drive side which didn't seem to fix anything. I played around with the app and am able to make it "just" work. But it's really really tight.
It on the very limit to rub on the outer plate of the front derailleur, but if I move the limit screw it will hit the crank. Therefore I don't really see how adding more shims fixes this problem?
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Normal 105 12 spd derailer. I am using a 175mm crank arm, and after installing the crankI really had to take alot of time to fine tune my upper limit screw. You need to move both the crank and the FD out to fix the alignment difference with the smaller Q factor. Either way the space between the FD and the crank is scary slim, mine is less than credit card thickness
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Ah okay, so it seems to be a general 12 spd shimano FD "issue" with this crank. Mine is just like that with creditcard thin spacing between upper limit and crank ???
Also I noted about it seemed the chainring flexed when pushing in the right side pedal. However I took the crank off and tighten the lockring, and that was a bit loose. It looks like it has fixed the problem ;D Now I have no rub, but still scary close
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Mine is very close as others have described (same again, 105 Di2 and P505) but after 7,000km there is no sign of rubbing.
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Same experience here. The preload bolt came loose During one of the early rides, but I just screwed it back on and there haven't been any issues since. I also see the smae flex but I wouldn't be confident in singling out any particular part as cause for it.
Overall very happy