Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: bremerradkurier on August 11, 2024, 11:05:56 AM
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Won the giveaway last month-frame finished painting and is planned to ship this week. Went for 80s vintage Celeste paint as I wanted one as a teenager but Bianchi was way above my budget.
https://imgur.com/a/zGW3oV4 (https://imgur.com/a/zGW3oV4)
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Looking forward to this build!
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Yew! How exciting! Very nice colour choice
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Which BB you took? Can you send me a link
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Which BB you took? Can you send me a link
Frame has arrived and I measured the BB shell at about 85mm in width, so I'll need a T47 inboard BB. Was going to get a Kactus ceramic BB from Ali, but for 10 USD more the Praxis BB is probably a much better option as it includes dust caps.
https://praxiscycles.com/product/t47-i-b-shimano/ (https://praxiscycles.com/product/t47-i-b-shimano/)
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Thoughts on wheels from Carbon Speed? I didn't find many results using the search feature. I think @Serge_K has bought from them.
My interest is in those 65mm deep 34ext 26int wheels. Probably overkill for the road, but I do own a set of wheels from No6 and find them to be wildly comfortable with 30c tires. Stretches them to 32/33mm. No tangible loss in speed. But of course this hasn't been scientifically tested.
https://www.xmcarbonspeed.com/Productinfo.asp?f=1649 (https://www.xmcarbonspeed.com/Productinfo.asp?f=1649)
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Thoughts on wheels from Carbon Speed? I didn't find many results using the search feature. I think @Serge_K has bought from them.
My interest is in those 65mm deep 34ext 26int wheels. Probably overkill for the road, but I do own a set of wheels from No6 and find them to be wildly comfortable with 30c tires. Stretches them to 32/33mm. No tangible loss in speed. But of course this hasn't been scientifically tested.
https://www.xmcarbonspeed.com/Productinfo.asp?f=1649 (https://www.xmcarbonspeed.com/Productinfo.asp?f=1649)
Interesting find - I've been looking for some >25mm internal width wheels for a gravel build, now that I'm used to 24mm IW and 30mm tyres on the road. Not many options out there from the budget Chinese brands so interesting to see wider rims making it into the market.
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I'm currently looking at an Elite Carbon wheelset in 45×24 IW or 38x25 IW for this build. For tires I'm thinking I could get some hilarious lean angles on the road and a super plush ride compared to my current 28c tires on 19 IW rims with either 38c Schwalbe Pro Ones or 35c Conti 5000 AS tires.
Should also have enough volume to handle the light unpaved sections I'd be trying.
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They are solid choices.
However to me it's a bit strange that you won the giveaway from Peter and then buy the wheels somewhere else.
But maybe its just me finding this awkward. :)
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Thoughts on wheels from Carbon Speed? I didn't find many results using the search feature. I think @Serge_K has bought from them.
My interest is in those 65mm deep 34ext 26int wheels. Probably overkill for the road, but I do own a set of wheels from No6 and find them to be wildly comfortable with 30c tires. Stretches them to 32/33mm. No tangible loss in speed. But of course this hasn't been scientifically tested.
https://www.xmcarbonspeed.com/Productinfo.asp?f=1649 (https://www.xmcarbonspeed.com/Productinfo.asp?f=1649)
Correct, i bought 5 sets. we got pretty much the first rims out of the 34mm wide mould for the rear, and 32mm wide or so in the front. 55mm depth front, 58mm depth rear.
Front DC2855 rim 24H T800 UD matt no holes in rim bed, Rear DC93258 rim 24H T800 UD matt no holes in rim bed, Custom hubs made in Taiwan 6 pawl 24/24H 6 bolts for 100*12/142*12 with Shimano 11S driver; Pillar wing 20 spokes with pillar nipples
Very happy with them. I greased the thru axle on the rear wheel on mine because for some reason i dont understand, sometimes it would make a noise. Since greasing it, no noise. I usually dont bother greasing thru axles.
The freehub body is easy to remove, i packed extra grease to silence them.
1 front wheel was a bit of true (my friend noticed, i hadnt), so i spent 5min truing it back a bit.
Beyond that, i'm 8k km into my set, and have no complaints. Probably another 4k km across the other sets, no complaints either. My set has gone through gravel, dirt, very high speeds, very high braking into sketchy harpins, forest roads, wet: it's seen plenty of real world conditions.
The complaints we have on this batch of bikes is with L-TWOO, not the frames, cockpits or wheels. Luckily, everything carbon has been flawless. The rear derailleurs... less so...
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Arrived. 8)
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That’s a pretty!
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Progress! Ended up using Xmcarbonspeed wheels because Elite would have been way too slow.
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So with the inner rim width at 26mm, my Schwalbe 38c tires are a hilarious 38.9mm wide and about 36mm tall-can't wait to see how far I'll be able to lean it over in turns.
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So with the inner rim width at 26mm, my Schwalbe 38c tires are a hilarious 38.9mm wide and about 36mm tall-can't wait to see how far I'll be able to lean it over in turns.
Ah, i was wondering what kind of big ass tyres you were running. 38C slick? Nice! Never seen that before. The new Long Teng 301 can clear 38C as well, so it means these could fit.
Please let us know after you've ridden them how that feels.
I love my 30-32C combo on wide rims (from Xmcarbonspeed in fact), but given how wide they get, i'm thinking of going 28&30 tubeless next time (in GP5000 still), because that would still be super wide. To respect more the 105 rule.
38 slicks is next level after the next level, idk what to expect!
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Ah, i was wondering what kind of big ass tyres you were running. 38C slick? Nice! Never seen that before. The new Long Teng 301 can clear 38C as well, so it means these could fit.
Please let us know after you've ridden them how that feels.
I love my 30-32C combo on wide rims (from Xmcarbonspeed in fact), but given how wide they get, i'm thinking of going 28&30 tubeless next time (in GP5000 still), because that would still be super wide. To respect more the 105 rule.
38 slicks is next level after the next level, idk what to expect!
My first choice was actually going to be Conti GP5000 AS in 35c but they were out of stock at Merlin-Bicycle Rolling Resistance website had some comments on the Schwalbes that they were undersized for a 38c.
So my handle refers to being a bike messenger in Northern Germany in the 90s and we were huge into maintaining momentum (and speed) over poorly paved roads and cobblestones. Best tire choices were usually tubed wide slicks/semi-slicks on 26" wheels but as was the practice at the time, on typically 17-19 at most IW rims at the max pressure on the tire sidewalls to prevent pinch flats. I once managed a deep two wheel drift without crashing on a pair of 26x1.75 Michelin Wildgripper Rock tires where I was completely puzzled as to why I didn't crash hard-this is the kind of moment I'm looking to relive with far better equipment. ;D
ETA: Was also considering the Challenge Strada Bianca in 45c, but there were a lot of comments about them unpredictably loosing grip in dry sand/gravel over pavement conditions.
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Very nice! just checked out bicycle rolling resistance, your 38C is only 3W slower than a GP5000 in 32C for a pair, that's legit!
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Wasn't this supposed to be a gravel bike? :D
38C slicks - I didn't even know they come that wide!
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I took the bait and merge two brands :)
Astana Qazaqstan for the win
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I took the bait and merge two brands :)
Astana Qazaqstan for the win
Niiiiiiiiice! is the paintjob good? looks great on pics. I dont think many OEMs are able to do such a paintjob on all the components.
Definitely brings an extra 10 points of bling.
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Niiiiiiiiice! is the paintjob good? looks great on pics. I dont think many OEMs are able to do such a paintjob on all the components.
Definitely brings an extra 10 points of bling.
I don’t have the expertise to judge if it is really good or excellent. Do you have a few points I could check to provide you a score?
To my naked and easy eyes, the paint is awesome. The only downside [which was expressed by Peter] is that is might be hard to insert the seatpost, so I might remove a bit of paint for a full insertion.
I am honestly really happy about the paint job, it was the main selling point to my wife as well [I bought 2 frames
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I'm definitely not a paint expert. If the paint looks consistent and you can't see spray patterns, that's a good sign. On bad paint jobs you can see droplets.
There's also the question of durability, whether they use expensive and really hard epoxy top coat (the kind that straight up kills you if you dont wear the right kind of mask when spraying), or a cheaper one that will be softer and last less.
The risk around paint on seatpost is valid for all brands. Make sure you know your seatpost height to avoid pushing the post too low, scraping the paint, then pulling it up again, because that can look bad really fast.
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I took the bait and merge two brands :)
Astana Qazaqstan for the win
Was that painted directly by xmcarbonspeed? Seatpost, handlebar and all?
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Built up and ready to ride at 8.77kg. Sunny day in the mid 70s F, high 20s C-time to rock and roll and play the song of the angry AF bees in the freehub.
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I don’t have the expertise to judge if it is really good or excellent. Do you have a few points I could check to provide you a score?
To my naked and easy eyes, the paint is awesome. The only downside [which was expressed by Peter] is that is might be hard to insert the seatpost, so I might remove a bit of paint for a full insertion.
I am honestly really happy about the paint job, it was the main selling point to my wife as well [I bought 2 frames
I had the same problem with seatpost insertion on my frame. Put the wedge in a vise and used sandpaper around the front edge of the seat post to remove material from the inside of the wedge.
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The Thicc Slicks were so fun. Roll great at 50 PSI front, 55 rear and smooth out everything from cracked asphalt up to expansion joints and make a quality woosh tone that makes you want to give them more watts.
Leaned over a bit and they plant like rock climbing shoes. Grabbed a good fistful of brake doing break in cycles and not even close to skidding.
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Wasn't this supposed to be a gravel bike? :D
38C slicks - I didn't even know they come that wide!
Pirelli make a 40C road slick
https://www.pirelli.com/tyres/en-ww/bike/tyres/catalogue/p-zero-race-tlr/40-622
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Was that painted directly by xmcarbonspeed? Seatpost, handlebar and all?
Yes!
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8.7kg with pedals and a mid tier groupset looks like a super competitive weight/cost ratio.
New Ridley halo gravel bike at a 9000ish Euro price point with 1 x Red is only in the low 8kg range with pedals-with the same tires I'd probably still be under 9kg.
https://bikerumor.com/ridley-astr-rs-gravel-bike-balances-race-ready-speed-all-rounder-versatility-review/
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So with the inner rim width at 26mm, my Schwalbe 38c tires are a hilarious 38.9mm wide and about 36mm tall-can't wait to see how far I'll be able to lean it over in turns.
Have you been able to test ride the bike and wheels yet?
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Have you been able to test ride the bike and wheels yet?
Rides great and appears to offer real aero advantages compared to my non-aero optimized road bike (my OG Evkin CF025, Di2, integrated handlebar with 31mm deep rims, Conti GP 5000s in 28c).
Same 3km no stop Strava segment rode a day apart was two seconds fast on the road bike but took 14w more average power to do so, both based off of Stages ND power meter data
I do have one small, maddening issue to resolve with a howling front wheel/disc rotor.
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5302.0.html (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5302.0.html)
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How would you rate it against your OG Evkin?
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How would you rate it against your OG Evkin?
Worksmanship is much better and T47 is a big plus over BB86, but to be fair my OG Evkin is six years old now so of course not as clean on the inside.
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I just finished to build he frame, and here is my observations:
1. Paint choice consequences (part my responsibility). This is the most frustrating part of the build: I had to sand the paint the seat post a lot to make it enter into the frame. Moreover, it was also really hard to put the shifters on the handlebar, I had to destroy the paint at the curve of the handlebar. Solution: only paint the upper side of the seatpost, and only paint the stem and the part of the handlebar from the stem until the shifters clamp area.
2. Handlebar design. I find two issues: it was impossible to pass the cable inside the stem, and there is not enough space underneath the stem for the 4 cables to pass without being squeezed. I could not pass the shifting wire while the handlebar was installed. Hopefully, I manage to make it work. It took me a lot of experimentation to find the solution haha.
3. I am not a fan on the design of the derailleur hanger with the double screw system.
Basically, I spent a lot of time (a few days more than my usual builds) because of the paint, but it looks gorgeous otherwise :)
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Hi guys,
I just finished a build with this frame and am left with quite a gap below the bottom spacer and frame. Peter said someone here may know what's up. Does anyone know what I may have done wrong or if there is a fix for this?
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Got photos from Peter today, looking forward to the build.
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Hi guys,
I just finished a build with this frame and am left with quite a gap below the bottom spacer and frame. Peter said someone here may know what's up. Does anyone know what I may have done wrong or if there is a fix for this?
Looks great-what width are the Pirellis?
Since you're using Shimano, you can get a bit crisper shifting and save a little weight with a direct mount UDH hanger-I got this one with the 1.0mm thread pitch and the fit was perfect.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807539398396.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.49.24f01802AeFswW&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807539398396.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.49.24f01802AeFswW&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa)
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Hi guys,
I just finished a build with this frame and am left with quite a gap below the bottom spacer and frame. Peter said someone here may know what's up. Does anyone know what I may have done wrong or if there is a fix for this?
I have exactly the same problem, a very large gap.
Have you found a solution?
The bearing is fairly flush with the bearing seat.
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Looks great-what width are the Pirellis?
Since you're using Shimano, you can get a bit crisper shifting and save a little weight with a direct mount UDH hanger-I got this one with the 1.0mm thread pitch and the fit was perfect.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807539398396.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.49.24f01802AeFswW&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807539398396.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.49.24f01802AeFswW&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa)
They are 35mm. Thanks for the udh tip!
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I have exactly the same problem, a very large gap.
Have you found a solution?
The bearing is fairly flush with the bearing seat.
Unfortunately no solution yet. Bearing is flush on mine too... :(
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Unfortunately no solution yet. Bearing is flush on mine too... :(
OK, so I fixed the situation pretty easily. I bought the Deda compression ring 45 degrees.
First I sawed off most of the top section about 2mm to 3mm I estimate with a hacksaw and then I sanded the top section with a Dremel tool piece by piece until it was at the right height to press it together properly, but also to leave a small gap between the frame and the headset cover.
I also had to sand down the inside of the FSA ACR headset cover. The NO.55R ACR headset also brings the bearing down by about 0.5 to 1mm.
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I took the bait and merge two brands :)
Astana Qazaqstan for the win
That looks great. How much did they charge for the painting? How much was that frame if you care to share?
Thanks
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Very interesting on most of their road bike frames they are for rim brakes and not disc brakes. At least that is what I see.