Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29er => Topic started by: drfragnasty on April 11, 2015, 05:38:27 AM
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This isn't my first build, I've put together a few carbon roadies (all from Flyxii) but it's my first 29er from X-Goods.
http://www.x-goods.com/en/products/xg-fr-216-matt.html (http://www.x-goods.com/en/products/xg-fr-216-matt.html)
Frame is 19" and fits v.well, I took it for a spin this afternoon and it's comfortable.
There were three issues with the build, the biggest is the Flyxii headset won't tighten down. The frame is 1 1/8" top, 1 1/2" bottom with a Rockshox Reba constant 1 1/8th steerer tube.
I bought a 1 1/8th to 1 1/2" adapter for the bottom race and I cut the steerer so there's 3 mm clearance for the top cap but it still won't torque up; something seems to be preventing it from
maintaining compression. The cap design doesn't instil confidence.
Here's the headset so where do the paper-thin steel spacers go?
(http://www.x-goods.com/UploadSysFiles/_thumbs/Images/Product/DSC03700.jpg)
XT Groupset included the wrong shifters; Wiggle have come good however and offered to ship me the right ones for no charge and I keep the old ones!
XT Groupset had the brake levers set for US riders (right brake lever operates rear brake) so I've swapped them over and as this was my first foray into hydraulic hose cutting/ swapping it went a bit pear-shaped but nothing a bleed kit can't fix. If could find one locally that is.
No rear brake, I'm waiting on an insert and "olive" for the rear hose.
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Thanks for posting your build experience. The thin metal spacers go under the top cap to provide clearance between the top cap and the frame. There is another recent thread showing the stack up if you do a quick search.
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There is another recent thread showing the stack up if you do a quick search.
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,553.0.html
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Mucho obligato to you both.
It turns out the top bolt had fused with the inner threaded housing and there was no clearance for compression; tightening the bolt did nothing but fuse them even tighter.
I've since disassembled and greased all surfaces (except for the critical interference) ensured there's a gap and it's much better. Hard to visualise I know. If anyone else has trouble I can take photos.
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Took the bike for a 40km club ride today on roads. Shifting is flawless, geometry is pretty much spot on.
Long hours in the saddle is a bind; off road not so much of a problem I guess. 2.2 Maxis Ikons at 50psi
made it plush but it was hard going keeping up with mostly roadies.
Headset isn't right; it creaks and groans despite lots of tweaking.
Anyone recommend a headset to fit a non-taper 1 1/8" fork steerer to the 1 1/8th - 1 1/2" frame?
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Headsets 101
This Slow Twitch article suggests using the star fangled nut for alloy steerers rather than compression nuts
which are for carbon.
http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Headset_How-To_-_Part_2_3159.html (http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Headset_How-To_-_Part_2_3159.html)
Installing star fangled nuts on the cheap, see last post:
http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/star-fangled-nut-install-12784.html (http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/star-fangled-nut-install-12784.html)
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I like the idea of the star nut for aluminum steer tubes but can't cmplain much about the cypress ion nuts I have on my two bikes, I really have had no issues int that respect alough I can feel the tiniest bit of play in my IP-036 stem, which is likely dur to tolerances between the bearing and race, or a mismatch between the bearing taper angle and the angle if the race. I have not botherered to look into it any further as it is so slight I don't notice it but once or so on a ride, just when I hit a rock or root just right.
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Installing star fangled nuts on the cheap, see last post:
http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/star-fangled-nut-install-12784.html (http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/star-fangled-nut-install-12784.html)
Guessing you're referring to the post from Timbo - interesting approach - but who has a length of 5mm threaded rod on hand? I sure don't. Unless he's using a smaller diameter rod and putting a nut on that. Another problem is I've seen a bunch of carbon forks which don't have the bottom of the steerer tube open.
Still, that's a pretty cool approach, and there are a bunch of places that something like that could work - thanks!
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Star fangled nut installed and it's better but there's still play in the headset. Not a lot, but more than both my other bikes.
It's not an issue unless it gets more than a bee's knackers wobble.
Installing the Brake Hose
Installed the rear brake hose starting with surgical precision threading some fishing leader through the plastic tube:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-krheYFej1w0/VSt19UViNwI/AAAAAAAABkU/SXS-Afe-iAc/w1024-h577-no/14.jpg)
Looking good; a self-tapper used to attach the thread to the hose for pulling it through:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1dCb9z2TKJM/VSt19ZWve6I/AAAAAAAABkc/oXj8vcGorXA/w1024-h577-no/15.jpg)
...then it went a bit pear-shaped. Spot the error:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0qIvWQLrzHY/VSt19fB2atI/AAAAAAAABkY/Fdi6T4Z8jiE/w1024-h577-no/16.jpg)
...then it went even further off course when I tripped over the fishing leader pulling it right through leaving nothing in the frame.
No matter! Out of curiousity I pushed the hose through from the bottom (without the hose nut and cover) and it went straight through emerging at the top exit point.
I don't know why they leave the plastic tube in, it wasn't needed.
Weight
AUW is 10.43Kg or 23.1lbs for the Liberians, USA and Burmese.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-OHVymhwenUY/VStxzojt4BI/AAAAAAAABjw/blxpDFrD4yQ/w1024-h577-no/13.jpg)
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wow looks great!!
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Thanks Byrt!
Please ignore the crappy pedals, they're going as soon as the Expedos get here.
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Looks good! Let us know how you like the ride.
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Spent today at Hollybank Juggernaut and with tyre pressure TBH too high it copped a hiding but still held together. The headset was a concern but was fine.
Rigid BB/ chainstays allow all your efforts to be channelled into propulsion. This is a very stiff frame. Everything else held together and the XT gears are great.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7pXjo00ToaA/VSzmxUvhY2I/AAAAAAAABlA/eTmX2rnLclE/w1024-h577-no/3.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-YQIlJDjuyP8/VSzmxUlVscI/AAAAAAAABlE/X8a95YZyosY/w1024-h577-no/4.jpg)
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Very nice bike!
But, where is your front derailleur ? I can see you're riding the bike with 2x10, but your FD is missing ?
Please keep in mind the chainrings aren't narrow wide, which means the chain can fall of 'easily'. It's a pity if you mesh up your frame because you aren't using a chain guide/FD..
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Thanks.
TBH I'm not sure if I'll bother with the front DR, there were enough ratios there for today.
The rear DR is clutched and the chain didn't come off.
If it does I'll defo look at a guide.
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Bike continues to impress.
XT geartrain worked perfectly with factory lube but not so much after dusty ride and cleaning with CRC 5-56.
It started to mis-shift. All fixed thanks to Prolink Chain Lube and a rag.
Xpedo XMX24MC pedals save a little weight and offer a wide platform. Whether they stand up to prolonged use remains to be seen.
Anyone else had experience with them?
Old cheap plastic pedals:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-mZbgq7dj2Gg/VTEVLptOnsI/AAAAAAAABlo/kiwk--zDQnU/w1024-h768-no/17.jpg)
Xpedo:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-lUYsaMV4w4Q/VTEVPrbvl_I/AAAAAAAABmA/fkM5KZgiS6U/w1024-h768-no/18.jpg)
AUW 10.43 - .54 = 9.89Kg.
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I think what you are calling a "factory lube" is little more than a sticky coating of rust inhibitor. At least that's what I've seen on all the new drivetrain parts I've purchased. I've always cleaned this coating off the chain and lubed with one of the recommended lubricants.
Everyone has a favorite chain lube, currently mine is White Lightening Clean Ride Wax Lube. It's reasonably priced and keeps the drivetrain cleaner than any other lubricant I've used. I always apply some to the chain when loading my bike on the car, giving it a chance to dry before I ride.
As for pedals, if you ride your mountain bike off road, my opinion is there is no better, safer pedal than a clipless design. When you combine a good pair of mountain biking shoes with a clipless pedal you get so many benefits that I would not consider riding these days without clipless pedals. I know many people are intimidated by having your feet clipped in, but I find that the level of control, and in effect safety, cannot be matched by any platform design. I'm not trying to be a "pedal snob" here, I know a few people who ride with platforms and they are very happy with doing so but they will never get the benefit of what clipless systems have to offer.
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I have been using Squirt on all my chains lately and really like it. The fine dust we have here and especially in places like Moab destroys chains, but Squirt has prolonged chain life and I can go longer between applications.
As far as pedals I use both. I mostly use clipless, but if I do a trail that has a lot of gnar and technical challenges I throw on some platform pedals.
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That's what I never understood. I can see not being attached if you are doing tricks or very likely to bail as in dirt jumping, but for rock gardens, rough and fast descents, or anything else where the bike is bouncing around I greatly prefer to be attached to the bike.
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Blue Derby
The Expedos saw some action today at Blue Derby Trail | North-East Tas.
Just 20m in, the left pedal produced an unwelcome "click" but it cured itself after a bit more riding.
More than likely not enough lube from the factory.
The bike feels solid, no rattles or creaks. I'm very happy with it although some artwork / paint is needed.
The dam above Derby:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-v66rFl14D9E/VTIOCZtsD9I/AAAAAAAABmk/EzklH3l5Qmk/w1280-h722-no/1.jpg)
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Nice scenery!
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Spent a day on the newly re-surfaced Scottsdale (Tasmania) Rail Trail. The bike performed impeccably but TBH the surface wasn't harsh.
No mechanicals, no fuss. OK, maybe it got a bit dirty thanks to a wet track but apart from that it was brilliant.
This is my first 29er and I love how low the rolling resistance is even at around 45psi front and rear.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7Jwp682e8DQ/VVAYKUdg4RI/AAAAAAAABqE/WXjFKWncAGQ/w1534-h865-no/IMG_20150510_120132.jpg)
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Spent a day on the newly re-surfaced Scottsdale (Tasmania) Rail Trail. The bike performed impeccably but TBH the surface wasn't harsh.
No mechanicals, no fuss. OK, maybe it got a bit dirty thanks to a wet track but apart from that it was brilliant.
This is my first 29er and I love how low the rolling resistance is even at around 45psi front and rear.
Wow, that's really not awful. Quite beautiful!
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Awesome pictures!
Make sure to post up your ride details and pictures here so we can all enjoy them and compare our terrains:
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,576.0.html
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My aluminum bike weighs too much...one day though...
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Nice build mate! I'm in Victoria (Geelong) those trails you have in Tassie look well worth a trip across the pond for a roll!
How did you decide on that frame out of interest, did you look at the two more popular 057 and 256 frames also?
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The 057 was my next choice but I liked the "twist" in the downtube on mine.
The 057 @ 19" actually has 120mm head tube whereas mine is only 100mm.
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y135/ggomez1/C72F210E-74A5-4208-8052-D514CBE05F3B-2576-000000FBDFCAE385.jpg)
There's not much in it TBH. IMHO you can't go wrong with any of these three moulds.
As for MTB in Tassie, it's finally coming together down here. Derby, Hollybank, Meehan Range Hobart Eastern Shore and Hobart Mt Wellington all offer first-rate tracks.
I haven't riddden Hobart but have found the other two to be fantastic.
FYI
The North East Rail Trail now has support (Fed Gov $1.43million) to help develop Launceston to Scottsdale rail trail.
http://www.ridebluederby.com.au/ (http://www.ridebluederby.com.au/)
http://flowmountainbike.com/features/must-ride-derby-tasmania/ (http://flowmountainbike.com/features/must-ride-derby-tasmania/)
http://www.ridetassie.com/ (http://www.ridetassie.com/)
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With a few kms under its belt, here's something to look out for.
With road tyres on I went for a 100km spin (and rode through a blizzard which was memorable)
and a day later found the bike had an annoying creak. I thought it was the BB so disassembled
the cranks and BB although it's an XT 86MM BB so the bearings can't be accessed.
Re-assemble and it still creaked. One characteristic of carbon frame sis their capacity to radiate
noises throughout the entire frame so isolating the noise is tough.
I tried the head-set; cleaned and lubed, it wasn't that so finally tried loosening the rear QR and that
seemed to be the source and more correctly it was the drop-out brackets. They had come loose both on sides.
Cleaned and tightened with a 2.5mm allen key and all was fixed. Took it for a 60km spin today and it's becoming my
favourite bike. AUW 10kg (22lbs) and solid as a rock.
XT groupset is fantastic. The brakes peerless.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OHJvTlPBvSlri7Yk4KTsbDRmjX5ClYvNtov9eVqqaYg=w1280-h786-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vJ8gvLf2FZNSzYbo8vhAug4R5Tugs0spUQ6M0PR5OsE=w1274-h955-no)
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Good you find it.
Where's your FD ? Aren't you afraid the chain will get of? I don't see a chain guide either.
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Chain catcher? It's not really a concern, I commute on it mostly so kerb jumping is about as extreme as I go.
I could likely lose the inner chainring too; I've yet to find a hill that needed it but you never know.
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I think the FR-216 is either the same frame or very close to my IP-057. Had the same issue with the drop out screws being loose. Added some blue Loctite to the screws and tightened them up. Hopefully not something I need to check regularly.
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Blue Loctite is a good idea for the small screws on the frame. I put a dab on each screw when I put the bike together. It'll keep the screws from vibrating loose.
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re: Blue Loctite
Roger that. I'll grab a bottle asap. Thanks for the info.
Chris.