Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: tgarne on January 03, 2025, 01:45:31 PM
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Hi all.
Seems like I am finally going to receive my Speeder SC-R55D this monday.
I have bought all the parts except the BB.
I find it very hard to make the final decision to match my Sram Red crank arms.
Currently deciding between:
- Tripeak twistfit ceramic - BB86 SRAM DUB
- Token Ninja TK4129QB BB86 DUB
- The standard Sram DUB
Am i missing anything good?
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You aren't missing anything good because there is no such option for that combo. I would try cheap original SRAM dub bottom bracket, see how it works in your setup and decide afterwards what to install.
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Im considering the SC-R55D. What groupset did you go with? I'd like to go mechanical but since its basically a Tavelo Arow not sure if its supported. Also does it have the same D shaped steerer?
sorry I can't answer your question but following cause if I build, I'll build with either 30mm or DUB crank.
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Im considering the SC-R55D. What groupset did you go with? I'd like to go mechanical but since its basically a Tavelo Arow not sure if its supported. Also does it have the same D shaped steerer?
sorry I can't answer your question but following cause if I build, I'll build with either 30mm or DUB crank.
Round steerer with FSA ACR headset as on photo:
https://i.imgur.com/tYaEtpk.jpeg (Photo borrowed from @precision6625)
I am running
Hoods: New Sram Red
Crankset: Sram Red Crank arms with Xcadey power meter and singe 50t Pass quest chainring
RD: Sram Force with Tripeak OSPW (Will upgrade to Sram Red XPLR 13-speed at some point :))
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You aren't missing anything good because there is no such option for that combo. I would try cheap original SRAM dub bottom bracket, see how it works in your setup and decide afterwards what to install.
Also my conclusion after a bit of research. Found the Token Ninja for 70 USD might go with that.
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Also my conclusion after a bit of research. Found the Token Ninja for 70 USD might go with that.
You're also not missing anything good because there is no good bearings for such small diameter. I have the same problem and decided to go for marginally inferior 24mm cranks and the same power meter. For now.
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I would run the SRAM BB. I believe the design uses a 30mm ID, 40mm OD bearing which is pretty much what you would expect, but they have a cleverly designed middle section, rubber seal, and ID reducer to 29mm that gets you an extra seal in each direction. IMO, the design is worth it vs. a fancier bearing.
The crazy thing is that the SRAM BBs largely use the same bearing size across the range, and there aren't too many complaints about longevity.
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I’ve been running the DUB for Shimano for a couple of years now. I’ve run the cheaper Wheels Manufacturing version with no center section which didn’t last very long. I haven’t seen it advertised for awhile now, so they may only be offering the expensive version now. I completely trashed the cheapie SRAM in a couple of months. I ponied up for a HSC ceramic BB which had lasted a year before it statyed clicking last month. Because of the cost, I tried servicing it, which did stop the clicking. Spins fine, but makes more noise bearing noise now.
went ahead and ordered an $80 usd Token BB, anyway, which I just installed tonight. It’s got steel cups instead of plastic like all the other ones, but it’s seems robust. The only minor issue, maybe, is that the cups seem undersized. I basically pressed the driver side cup in with only whatever force I could generate with my arm. Went in pretty smoothly with a firm fit, but definitely seemed a few micrometers undersized compared to all the other brands.
Any thoughts on the fitment issue with Token?
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Just go SRAM, I had to do the same for a different build and it works great.