Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29+ & 27+ => Topic started by: Luke.moore on April 25, 2017, 02:57:10 PM
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So I'm going to start off by saying that I'm probably going to need some help figuring this out. Secondly I'd like to thank Peter at xmcarbonspeed.com / carbonspeedbikes.com for his help getting me all the things I need.
Important Build Notes
- Rear shock bushing sizes- 20.2mm wide with 8mm bolt and 50mm wide with 8mm bolt.
I'd recommend getting offset bushings even if you're not wanting to change the geometry. The offset, if both bushings are aimed in the same direction away from the seat tube, will help with any clearance issues with the shock. The control dial on the Manitou McLeod comes in contact with the frame just slightly with normal center drilled bushings. (https://www.offsetbushings.com/) - The cable routing is pretty bad as far as having the shift cable housing running under the bottom bracket shell. Just keep that in mind. It won't bother me too much, but I know some people won't like it.
- If you are getting custom paint and going with a matte finish, have them put a coat or two of matte clear coat on it. The matte paint is fragile.
- The DH940C rims were super easy to mount tubeless. One layer of Orange Seal tape and 1 16g CO2 got it started enough for me to hook up my pump and pop it the rest of the way on. After I got the tire on the rim, I deflated the tire, removed valve core and injected sealant. No leaks at all. I'll post tire clearance photos when the rear tire comes in.
- Rear rotor size is 180mm, not 160mm as listed.
I'll keep editing this post and updating it with anything new that comes up.
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Good luck! Can't wait to see how it turns out. Please document well!!!
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I couldn't resist the weather and ended up going for a ride. Ill start tomorrow. ;D
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That colour looks so good 8)
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The headset should be a drop in type so you can wait until you're about to put the fork in before installing it. You can already press the bearing cup on the fork. Use grease to fit the cup and for all the bearings contact points (frame/cup).
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Well... I would start to move the cables inside the frame first.
As it can help to have the BB and headset holes open to help any difficulty.
And only then, press the BB and headset.
Any remaining operation can be done mostly in any order.
One trick if you go tubeless, as this can be a time sink.
It is to inflate a tube inside the tire( unmounted from the rim ) for a few hours, better a night before.
It takes its shape and pops very easily.
Mount the tire dry first without sealant, and inflate it until it pops.
Then remove the core of the valve and with a syringe fill the sealant.
Re-inflate and shake, or even better go and ride on some bumps.
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Can you guys please stop saying the word "press"?
It's a drop-in headset. You don't need a press. You need fingers. That's it.
You're conveying the (wrong) idea that this frame takes a press-in headset. It doesn't. Stop.
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I will go with the rest of the group and recommend doing the internal cables first. Then the BB. After that, it all depends on what job you feel like doing next. One particular job doesn't rely on another being done first. Except for the chain sizing. That is definitely done last.
Can you guys please stop saying the word "press"?
It's a drop-in headset. You don't need a press. You need fingers. That's it.
You're conveying the (wrong) idea that this frame takes a press-in headset. It doesn't. Stop.
Stop.
Don't get all worked up. This is a friendly forum where things get typed wrong sometimes. ;D
Luke.Moore was asking for help so he probably didn't realize that. lRaphl took care of that and mentioned that they were drop in bearings. Carbonazza, well he probably just had one to many bong hits for breakfast.... LOL. Or realistically, was just helping with the order of things without over analyzing the headset type.
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I'll use the words "drop the headset" in the future.
Although I usually press it with my fingers :) Ok... I stop.
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Frame looks good. Patiently waiting for the finished product. 8)
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Can't wait to see that light blue frame with yellow (or orange) rims bike!!!
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I slapped the parts together to get an idea. I ordered the last few tools, parts and tires yesterday. Only thing i still need to figure out is the rear shock bushings. The control knob/dial for the rear shock touches or almost touches the frame. I'm thinking about getting offset bushings to move dial off the frame. I also need to figure out the bushing sizes. I ordered a digital caliper to get exact measurements. Here's a snapshot from my phone.
I'll be pulling it all back down and documenting the build soon.
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Love it! Some decals to match those rim would make it perfect.
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Love it! Some decals to match those rim would make it perfect.
That is the plan!
FYI - If you go with Peters matte finish, make sure to add a matte clear coat. The paint is fairly fragile without it.
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I see you went with a 140mm fork, what size shock are you running in the back? 165x38 like the site says?
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So I talked to the graphics people today. I'm going hand the frame over to them (stripped down) before I complete the build. They are working up an idea of what needs to be done to protect the paint. I'll let everyone know details as soon as I get some.
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FYI - Rear rotor size is listed as 160mm. I have 180mm rotors with a 20mm spacer. I put the spacer and caliper on and it was 20mm too tall for the rotor. I direct mounted the caliper and it fit the 180mm rotor perfectly. I don't have any 160mm rotors to test with but i would guess that they would be too small.
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Does anyone know how to unlock the rear triangle? It's rigid right now...probably that way for safer shipping.
Speaking of shipping it only took a week for the bike to show up after it was shipped. No custom issues at all.
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One week is awesome!
What do you mean by locked? Once the dummy shock is removed, it should go through its travel pretty easily.
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One week is awesome!
What do you mean by locked? Once the dummy shock is removed, it should go through its travel pretty easily.
It didn't come with a dummy shock...nothing at all in there. Its just solid, like it's locked somewhere.
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So...I'm pretty sure I mounted my tubeless Maxxis Ikon tire backwards. I don't think I want to fix it. Thoughts?
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Your shock situation is certainly an odd one.. I'm wondering if one of the bolts is seized? I'm curious to hear how you fix that issue. In terms of the tire I ran a tire backwards for a few months and I honestly didn't notice a huge difference. You might wear the tread down faster if the treads are angled towards the intended direction of travel though. I'd ride it a bit and if you get bored one day then flip it around. I've found resealing my tires to be a breeze once they're ridden for a bit.
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I'm really curious what's going on with your rear triangle. I would loosen all the suspension hardware half a turn and see if it moves freely then.
As an aside, do you own a torq wrench? If not I would definitely recommend getting one. I have a park tools set which includes a 1/4" drive wrench, Allen and torx bits, it was like $80. I couldn't help myself on Black Friday and bought basically the same thing at harbor freight for < $10. Without a sale you can probably get a 1/4" torq wrench and bit set from harbor freight for $20.
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I'm really curious what's going on with your rear triangle. I would loosen all the suspension hardware half a turn and see if it moves freely then.
As an aside, do you own a torq wrench? If not I would definitely recommend getting one. I have a park tools set which includes a 1/4" drive wrench, Allen and torx bits, it was like $80. I couldn't help myself on Black Friday and bought basically the same thing at harbor freight for < $10. Without a sale you can probably get a 1/4" torq wrench and bit set from harbor freight for $20.
The frame and wheels are at the graphics place. I'll try loosening the triangle as soon as i get it back. I also emailed Peter about the issue. Hope it's something easy.
I did get a cheap torque wrench from Amazon and it works great so far. Figured that and a bike repair stand were pretty important.
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Definitely keep us posted on the lock up issue.
As for torque wrenches, it's good to get them calibrated when you first get them if they haven't been at the factory. If you can get them checked periodically, that's good too. If they stay in a case and aren't abused, once every few years is fine. I use them almost everyday so mine are checked every 6 months but that is quite excessive for most. Dropping them on concrete, say off of a toolbox, voids the calibration too. That's just a PSA about torque wrenches.
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Definitely keep us posted on the lock up issue.
As for torque wrenches, it's good to get them calibrated when you first get them if they haven't been at the factory. If you can get them checked periodically, that's good too. If they stay in a case and aren't abused, once every few years is fine. I use them almost everyday so mine are checked every 6 months but that is quite excessive for most. Dropping them on concrete, say off of a toolbox, voids the calibration too. That's just a PSA about torque wrenches.
What kind of place calibrated a torque wrench?
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You get this thing built up yet? Any rides?
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You get this thing built up yet? Any rides?
Not yet. The paint protector film guy is taking forever. Over three weeks now. Never using him again. Sorry for the delay in the build.
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3 weeks? Is he wrapping every bolts and nuts individually too?
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3 weeks? Is he wrapping every bolts and nuts individually too?
So i got it back today. He used his plotter/cutter to make a template so there are no visible seems. It looks really good. Pics in the morning.
The rear triangle just needed to be loosened at the top pivot an 8th turn and it swings freely. I've got it roughly together and the build was easy. I ran the rear break outside until i figure out how to cut the hose to feed it through the top tube. Ill need a bleed kit then too.
Another problem with the rear shock is that it will be impossible to attach the pump to the stem on the shock with the shock mounted. Ill play with the offset bushings tomorrow to see what i can do about that. The stem is too close to the frame right now.
I'll update more in the morning.
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Any chance to try the bike? Got some pictures also?
Thanks!
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how are you running your rear brake cable?
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So i got it back today. He used his plotter/cutter to make a template so there are no visible seems. It looks really good. Pics in the morning.
I ran the rear break outside until i figure out how to cut the hose to feed it through the top tube. Ill need a bleed kit then too.
Not if you use the "no bleed" method to shorten the brake line and run it internally. Look on YouTube, there are some good procedures posted. I have a bleed kit and have not needed to use it the last few times I installed new brakes and ran the lines internally.
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I'm going to look at the no bleed method tonight and see what I can learn.
So, for photos, here they come. As for ride review, my wife has had about 8 miles of single track on it and she is in love. We will be riding every dry day this week, so I'll listen to her concerns and comments and pass them along. I'd sit down on it and go for a spin, but I'm a little too tall and heavy for this setup to give any real feedback. Next post will have pics!
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Link to album. These outside pics kinda washed out the color a little. The inside pics I'm adding to the album are fairly accurate color representations. Also I jacked up two of the plastic cable housing guides so I'll be ordering some more of those from Peter soon.
https://goo.gl/photos/RerjCZaA4uxu9aVm9 (https://goo.gl/photos/RerjCZaA4uxu9aVm9)
Additional notes I'll add to first post...
- The Minion SS 29x2.3 probably wouldn't have fit if it wasn't the semi slick version. Take a look at the clearance shot of the back tire. Any knob height would have been rubbing. That being said, I think the Maxxis Minnion SS is a pretty good choice for what my wife will be using this bike on. This probably won't go in too much mud and she doesn't ride when it's wet/raining.
- Chain length... wrap the chain around the biggest cog in the back and the chain ring in the front, NOT weaving through the derailleur, then add 4 links. Anything less (with the xx1 derailleur) will cause shifting while riding when the suspension compresses.
- I don't have the weight yet, but it's really light...but all I have to compare it to is a Stache 9 and a Trek Fuel EX both in 21.5.
- Tires are Maxxis Minnion SS 29x2.3 rear and Maxxis Ikon 2.35 (mounted backwards by mistake) on the front.
- I tried to take a few pics of the chain ring clearance. It doesn't look like you're going to be able to go much over a 30T, but I really don't know that for sure. The teeth are super close to the rear triangle.
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how are you running your rear brake cable?
Jagwire adhesive cable guides under the top tube. See pics
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I like your choices of components!
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I like your choices of components!
I figured Deity would play well as a "brand" to gift to the wife/goddess in my life. Not the cheapest stuff, but this experiment was about the experience rather than money. She does say that the saddle is murder on her "seat", but she said that about her Evoke RL Womens saddle, that she rides and love now, for the first two weeks. Maybe Deity should make a female oriented saddle? Thanks for the comment Carbon_Dude!
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Hey guys,
Got the CS-FS27 27.5+ frame
I purchased the Roxshox Monarch rt3 165x38 shock.
I'm having hard time finding the right Hardware (bushings) for the frame.
Can anyone help?
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Hey guys,
Got the CS-FS27 27.5+ frame
I purchased the Roxshox Monarch rt3 165x38 shock.
I'm having hard time finding the right Hardware (bushings) for the frame.
Can anyone help?
https://www.offsetbushings.com
Rear shock bushing sizes- 20.2mm wide with 8mm bolt and 50mm wide (if painted go with 49.9mm) with 8mm bolt.
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Thats Strange...mine is 22mm upper and I put in a 21.85 hardware directly....I will measure again tonight.
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I have 21,84mm upper and 49,78 lower. No problems or free play in the bushings.
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Congrats on the new build, looks awesome :)
I'm sure your goddess is going to love it.