Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29+ & 27+ => Topic started by: MVinter on August 07, 2017, 02:31:04 AM
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Last year I did build a CS-496, with two wheelsets. 29" carbon wheels with thunder burt and 27,5+ with 3.0 NN. This spring I ordered a FS27 frame to use the plus wheelset.
Spec:
Frame: CS-FS27
Shock: Fox factory DPS
Fork: RS Pike
Crankset: RF Next with absolute black 28t oval chainring
Pedals: CB candy 11
Drivetrain: SRAM X01 11-spd
Wheels: 40mm carbon, DT350, sapim D-light
Tires: 2.8 Rocet ron / 3.0 Nobby nick
Brakes: Shimano Saint
Saddle/post: Fabric Scoop shallow / RS Reverb
Cockpit: Thomson x4 / XM carbon speed riser bar
Weight: 12,1-12,2 kg (26,7 lbs) included pedals. ;)
I'm super happy with the bike, its effective when padeling, snappy and can handle rough terrain! There was no problems building up this frame, and could easily recommend both shopping with Peter and the frame itself.
And now I also have a super snappy no-suspension bike with the CS-496!
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More pictures
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On the trail - Isälvsleden in sweeden
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Drivetrain
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Looks like a very nice plus bike. I wonder how it compares to my Stumpjumper 6Fattie.
In the pictures your seat looks really high compared to your bars, do you think that's normal for that frame?
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I don't know how it compares to the 6fattie, but it is much more nible than what you should expect from a plus bike.
Regarding bar height I don't know, but it's shure feels normal to me. I guess it will be like this if you are quite tall, and would have been even worse if you have shorter fork.
I was about to take the 21", but I was afraid that the long reach could be to much and make the bike to long. I'm 188cm and have seat at 82cm from BB center. I think the bike deserves a 150mm fork to get out the max potensial if you have a rough riding style. The shorter rear travel makes it good to climb as well. I rarely use lock out, even on gravel roads. Last two weeks I have done 170km with singletrack, with all sorts of terrain - from smooth hardpacked soil to rough rocky sections. I think this is one of the best do-it-all trailbikes I have tried. But one big thing where it's not perfect is mud... Plus tires are really poor in mud!
My wife have same frame but with a little less expensive components. 15,5" and 120mm fox 34, and this is perfect as the front end is not to high. Seat height 68cm/height 167cm. She is relly happy, but she does not have to much to compare to.
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At 6'-2" (US measurements) I would have expected you to have a 21" frame but that decision is purely your personal preference. If the size of the bike feels correct to you that's what is most important.
The 6Fattie has 150mm travel front, 135mm rear, which works well for the trails in my area. I miss not having a lockout lever right up on the bars for long steep climbs.
I don't find my plus tires bad in the mud, just the opposite in that I feel I get more grip without sinking as far into the mud. However, I can understand how you may like the skinnier tires that might dig in and have a more natural feel in a mud rut.
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Remember that the reach is quite long on this frame. this 19" is longer than my previous XL Scott Genius.
Among all I have talked to there is an consensus that plus tires are bad in the mud. You could not compare 3.0 nobby nick vs 2.25 NN... The weight and grip in other conditions are very different between these two. If you f.eks. compare 3.0 NN vs 2.4 Magic mary, there are way different grip in mud. The 3.0 does not even get close. Luckily I dont have to much mud on the trails around here, most rock, and then the plus tires really shine!
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Would you mind posting a pic of the unused trunnion shock mount bolts? My frame did not come with them and it would help me find the right ones.
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MVinter,
Mine is size M 17" and I am just 173cm tall, for me that reach is just fit, I need to fit a -17degree 70mm stem with a flat bar for it. I really depends on what kind of riding position you like.
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Are you asking about shock hardware or the bolt that goes thru?
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MVinter,
Mine is size M 17" and I am just 173cm tall, for me that reach is just fit, I need to fit a -17degree 70mm stem with a flat bar for it. I really depends on what kind of riding position you like.
You also need different riding position, for different terrain. For me I don't have same position for my trailbike and Gravelbike... As we have steep and rocky montains around here, i'm happy with the setup.
Difficult to se from lowres photo, but looks like you run dropper post. Any problems to get it far enough down into the seattube? For my wife I had to use the shortest Fox transfer post to get correct saddle height when extended. This is a problem I would gues several bike builders need to keep in mind. ;)
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yes I am running a dropper, mine is a "Brand-X" dropper seatpost from CRC, it`s a 410mm as I remember. the post cant be set any lower because the wire mechanism will hit inside of the frame.....it`s lucky it just fit my height. You are right anyone want to build this frame should keep this in mind....if you are tall enough a longer dropper seatpost will be fine.
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Drivetrain
What size and type of oval chainring are you using?
My drivetrain came with a non boost 32T. It doesnt fit and rubs the chainstay
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I have Absolute black oval 28t. Round 30t will fit, but nothing bigger.
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are you guys running cranks with boost compatibility? I think it moves the chainring out 3mm, but I have no idea if that would help?
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Direct mount cranksets (RF cinch, sram DM...) is not boost specific. You just change chainring with another offset. That way you get correct chainline.
I have RF next with boost specific chainring (AB 28t oval) and the chainline is good.
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So any chance we can run this with a 32t or 34t?
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I would gues a wider chainline is needed. If you run round 32t it should be sufficient with a thin spacer om the drive side.
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Direct mount cranksets (RF cinch, sram DM...) is not boost specific. You just change chainring with another offset. That way you get correct chainline.
Sram makes a DM Boost chainring, I'm running one on my stache.
If you google, you will find 3mm boost offset DM Sram X-sync chainrings.
fyi
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That was what I tried to tell you. The crankset is not boost specific, it's the chainring that makes the chainline 51mm, 54mm or 57mm...
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Like others have stated, it all depends on the crankset and chainring combination. If you are running Sram cranks with a threaded BB and need some extra clearance, you could go with a WolfTooth GXP ring for a BB30 crank. It has 0 offset so it will sit a little further out. Putting a drive side spacer on a GXP crankset doesn't accomplish anything in terms of spacing.
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Sorry, I am a little confused, so with a 0mm offset, will something like 32t fit?