Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29+ & 27+ => Topic started by: R_Pierce on August 09, 2017, 05:53:23 AM
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Hello guys, I was torn between going with Peter and the FS27 or going with Ican and the P8.
I ended up going with the P8 as it was closest in Geometry to my current bike (which I love)
So, I plan to document the build here for others that may be interested in this frame.
The build will consist of the following:
Ican P8 Medium
Rockshox Reba RL 120mm fork
Rockshox 200 x 51 Monarch RT3 Debonair rear shock
Raceface Atlas 50mm stem
Raceface SixC 785mm Carbon DH bars
Magura MT7 brakes (180 rear, 203 front)
Raceface Turbine Cinch 170mm Crankset
Wolf 32 tooth Oval Chainring
SRAM XX1 Eagle 12 speed drivetrain
27.5 35W Hope Hoops wheel set with Pro 4 hubs and 27.5 x 2.8 Nobby Nics
DNM 100mm Dropper Seat Post with Wolf Lever.
Ill start attaching pictures as I build up the frame, but initial impressions are very good! The frame is awesome build wise, and aesthetic wise. Pivot has zero side to side play, and all of the bearings/bushings move very freely! Rear triangle doesnt bind in the slightest! (I must admit this was a worry after reading about other bike manufacturers with this issue)
And then the custom decals I had NLdesigns draft up. I based the design off of the Transition Patrol Carbon bike.
(http://i.imgur.com/Mb97YTZ.jpg)
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(http://i.imgur.com/kq871gC.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/NvftYPA.jpg)
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(http://i.imgur.com/I8SuCxS.jpg)
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The frame looks great! Good luck with the build.
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Alright, got my old frame stripped of all the goodies, and everything transferred over to the new frame. The brake hose and fittings, as well as the shock bushings didnt arrive until later, so Ill get them all done in the morning.
Went from an e*thirteen 9-44 tooth cassette to the Eagle setup.
Bike complete including rear shock came in at 30.3 lbs. Cant wait to take it for a rip this weekend!
(Yes, Im aware the levers are pointed up. No I will not ride like that. They are set in the bleed position for when I get the hose)
(http://i.imgur.com/1uas7mk.jpg)
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(http://i.imgur.com/epllDBd.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/REeW5US.jpg)
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(http://i.imgur.com/WzAw0D9.jpg)
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Nice bike and nice pictures.
Thanks for the reference of the decals, I might need some in the near future.
As said many times already here, clamping the top tube on the stands should be avoided.
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A little common sense goes a long way when clamping a carbon bike. It's not tight. But yes, that's a solid principal to go by for sure!!
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And I'll post a couple final pictures here in a couple hours. Installing the shock and brake hose this morning.
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Can you post a picture of the holes under the rear shock bottom mount please?
Thank you!
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Can you post a picture of the holes under the rear shock bottom mount please?
Thank you!
Here are a couple that you can see it a little. There is only one exit hole and one entrance hole into the chain stay.
(http://i.imgur.com/hY5zUh4.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/A9JJvHL.jpg)
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And took it for the maiden voyage today! I have a few things that I need to work out on it, and one of them is pedal strikes. GALORE! Im running 30% sag though in the rear shock, so Ill take that down to 15% or 20% and see how that does. Im coming from a hardtail, so it may just be getting used to when to pedal again. And the bike is FAST. First trip out on it today and was just going for a leisurely (or so I thought) slow pace and ended up setting 2nd and 3rd best times in Strava. So it definitely gives confidence!! A couple finished pictures below as well as what I used for travel on the rear shock:
(http://i.imgur.com/qFM1Z00.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/h2VmN3s.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/hZzsZnU.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/BXcnqDO.jpg)
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I think I didn't express myself properly. I'm talking about the place where the bottom of the shock attach. I want to see if there are holes for a remote shock cable. Is the dropper cable goes through there also?
Thanks! :)
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There is no hole where the bottom of the shock attaches. I actually ran my dropper post cable fully internal, but it has an option of coming out of the side of the down tube and then entering back into the side of the seat tube.
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Awesome build, R_Pierce. Cant wait to see some pics with the new fork installed, and maybe a couple ride reports once shes completely dialed in. Bike looks amazing!
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Awesome build, R_Pierce. Cant wait to see some pics with the new fork installed, and maybe a couple ride reports once shes completely dialed in. Bike looks amazing!
I was hoping that the new Manitou Mcleod shock would be here for the weekend rides so I could take a couple new pics, but doesnt look like its going to show up.
Ill grab some new pictures this weekend!
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Alright, final pics! I think Im finally happy! Got the new X-Fusion McQueen installed, as well as the Manitou McLeod rear shock. Bike is a whole different animal!! Cant wait to ride a few more times and get this fork/shock broken in, and get everything fine tuned. But currently its FAST!
(https://image.ibb.co/d45aK5/IMG_20170826_092423.jpg)
(https://image.ibb.co/b96RRk/IMG_20170826_092434.jpg)
(https://image.ibb.co/nOi6Rk/IMG_20170826_092458.jpg)
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(https://image.ibb.co/fjrhz5/IMG_20170826_092719.jpg)
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Nice work..... ;)
How much did the decals set you back, just out of interest?
Cheers
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75 euros. A little pricey but it had design time in there as well. From NLdesigns.
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Hey your bike looks great! I have a black SC and am about to order decals from NLDesigns. How is the quality of the decals?
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Hey your bike looks great! I have a black SC and am about to order decals from NLDesigns. How is the quality of the decals?
It's not bad! But I will say that I liked my graphics from Slik much better! It was much faster service as well. And exactly what I asked for.
Worth checking into them if they have decals for your bike. They also do custom.
http://www.slikgraphics.com
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Do you know what the widest 29" tire this frame will fit? ICAN told me 29x2.1?
I'm trying to decide between this frame and the p9 to move all the parts from my 29er hardtail to. It has newer MAxxis 29x2.35 now
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Do you know what the widest 29" tire this frame will fit? ICAN told me 29x2.1?
I'm trying to decide between this frame and the p9 to move all the parts from my 29er hardtail to. It has newer MAxxis 29x2.35 now
I do not. Sorry
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Have you put many miles on the bike lately? Anything you don't like about it so far? I'm thinking of doing a build this winter using this frame, would love to hear your feedback on it so far.
-Ryan
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Have you put many miles on the bike lately? Anything you don't like about it so far? I'm thinking of doing a build this winter using this frame, would love to hear your feedback on it so far.
-Ryan
I have about 60 miles on the bike. All of that single track. Absolutely love it.
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Cracking bike mate. I really want the P8 frame, but also like the P9. Can't decide which I want to go for but leaning towards P8 for the uphill sections of our trails up here. How were Ican to deal with, and how long from when you paid till delivery? And what was the total spend on that bike with Eagle set up? Cheers Tony
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Cracking bike mate. I really want the P8 frame, but also like the P9. Can't decide which I want to go for but leaning towards P8 for the uphill sections of our trails up here. How were Ican to deal with, and how long from when you paid till delivery? And what was the total spend on that bike with Eagle set up? Cheers Tony
☝️☝️What he said! Exactly same predicament I am in.
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Cracking bike mate. I really want the P8 frame, but also like the P9. Can't decide which I want to go for but leaning towards P8 for the uphill sections of our trails up here. How were Ican to deal with, and how long from when you paid till delivery? And what was the total spend on that bike with Eagle set up? Cheers Tony
They were great to deal with! If you NEED tech support though, you are pretty much on your own. I didnt need it as Im plenty capable of figuring things out/doing my own research so it was a no brainer for me.
I would go with the P8 if you need it for single track use, just put a 56/57mm shock on the back instead of the 50mm it calls for, and toss a 140mm on the front and you have a mid travel bike that will climb just fine.
Took about 10 days for delivery.
I added it up the other day and have roughly 4300.00 in the bike with the Eagle. But this bike would be double that price from any large manufacturer with the parts I have on this bike. There are no low end or even mid end parts on this bike currently outside of the crank set (which is Eagle GX).
Below is the current build on the bike:
Ican P8 frame
X-Fusion McQueen RCP 140mm fork
Manitou Mcleod 200 x 56 rear shock
Magura MT7 raceline brakes
Shimano IceTech rotors (203 front 180 rear)
Renthal stem
Race Face SixC DH carbon bars
Fox Transfer 150mm dropper post with Wolftooth lever
WTB Team Titanium Saddle
Eagle XX1 drivetrain minus crankset (crankset is GX Eagle)
Hope Pro4/Hope Hoops wheel set
Schwalbe Nobby Nics 27.5 x 2.8
(I think thats it?)
And here is a link to an album with measurements for anyone that is wondering about the tire to seat post clearance with the longer travel shock (this gives roughly 135mm of rear travel instead of 120mm) Looks at the caption under each photo for a description of what each picture is.
https://imgur.com/a/QaQM2
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Great detailed info here....Perfect for anyone contemplating doing a build on one of these.... 8)
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Many thanks for that reply. Wow, you spent big, but as you say you got a bike for half the price of the bike shop prices!!
I'm hoping to go for Hope Tech components throughout, all in Anodized Orange, with a Cyan Blue frame....it'll look frickin' wicked!! Rock Shox Pike and Cane Creek DB suspension, and Light Bicycle carbon 29" wheels with Hope Pro4 hubs.
This will set me back about AU$5800 .... or US$4600. But I reckon it would cost about $9000 here in Perth Australia to buy an equivalent spec bike.
I just need to get all the costings and find the parts at the cheapest price. Also to buy from different sellers as I won't have to pay import tax if the parcels are all under $1000 each!!
I'm quite teched up so will be able to suss most things out.... and there's always Youtube, right?!!!
Well I hope you're enjoying that bike. My mates say I'm mad for buying a Chinese frame.... as they all ride round on their Chinese made Giants!!! I reckon the quality will be awesome, seeing as they make every other brand's bikes.
I'll keep you informed on my progress. Why not have a holiday and come and ride the round pea gravel here in Perth...talk about SKETCHY!!! Look what it did for Sam Hill though!
Cheers
Tony
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29er
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Here's mine as it sits. Waiting on more parts
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The build looks awesome. Great work!
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Hey, a couple of questions.
Just ordered P8 frame from icancycling and would like to know before I order the other parts
- what mounting hardware should I use to mount the rear shock (planning monarch RT3 or monarch plus rc3) the size of the shock should be 200x21 right? any links to purchase the mounting kit would be much appreciated.
- since this is a boost frame do you use both boosted front and rear wheels? looking at the yari boosted shock for 29 wheels... but if not regular fork would be Ok i suppose?
- what is the largest 29 tires can this frame handle? as far as i understood 24 fit nicely?
Thanks!
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just got mine 29x2.4 lots of room left
anyone know how to fit a 210mm shock into this thing? need some extreme bushings I think? know where to get them cheap or how to make something?
thank you.
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just thought id add that on amazon this frame says it will also accept 200x57mm. i found a brand new reaktiv shock on amazon as well from a 2015 9.9 remedy for $99 it is 197mmx54mm i figure that should be ok. but we shall see when i get it. i have a 2107 reaktiv on my fuel ex 8 and as long as its similar to that im think $99 for a brand new 2015 fox shock is a smoking deal...?
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Did you see that on a review on there? If so, thats my review. Im running a 200 x 57 shock on mine without issue. As well as a 140mm Manitou fork.
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yeah i think i saw it on a review. good to know it has worked well for you. i also ordered a 140mm revelation fork. how much did your frame weight in at? heres mine. i think the shock and cage are around 300-350 grams. so the frame is around 2500 grams bare.
sorry going to work on adding the pics (they are too big)
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Is this the shock used?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M2U6IA7/ref=mh_s9_acsd_simh_b6yPEDb_c_x_1_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-3&pf_rd_r=A4NCTA1DHWWAW1NTEZ74&pf_rd_r=A4NCTA1DHWWAW1NTEZ74&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=87f0ef66-879e-5c88-88d7-e099502d76b0&pf_rd_p=87f0ef66-879e-5c88-88d7-e099502d76b0&pf_rd_i=6389390011
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2015 Fox Racing Performance Float DRCV CTD Re:Aktiv Shock // 7.75 x 2.125" is the shock I ordered. haven't tried it yet though.
they had it on eBay too for $99usd as well.
https://www.amazon.com/2015-Fox-Racing-Performance-Float/dp/B01M21JKLW
the one you listed looks like it might work too. I don't know though if mine will actually be ok either.
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Hi, nice build ! I'm about to buy this frame but a little in doubt about seat angle; it seems too low and I'm concerned about climbing performance.
Thanks in advance
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Did you see that on a review on there? If so, thats my review. Im running a 200 x 57 shock on mine without issue. As well as a 140mm Manitou fork.
just wanted to double check with you. are you sure the 57mm stroke being longer doesn't cause the frame linkage to bind up when the shock is bottomed out? thanks!
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Did you see that on a review on there? If so, thats my review. Im running a 200 x 57 shock on mine without issue. As well as a 140mm Manitou fork.
just wanted to double check with you. are you sure the 57mm stroke being longer doesn't cause the frame linkage to bind up when the shock is bottomed out? thanks!
100% positive. There is tons of room left. No linkage binding.
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Hey I'm planning on using the Rockshox Monarch RT3 (200x51) rear shock. Could you please tell me what size mounting hardware to buy (I believe you used this shock initially)? Thanks in advance!!
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CK0MQY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
22.2 x 8
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mostly bare p8 medium 17.5 shock weight around 250-300 grams.
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my p8 build is progressing.. i got almos all parts. i went with 29er ican 35 mm rims with 2.4 tires the shock is monarch plus rc3 200x57. i'm almost sure the fork will be rockshox pike. i wonder though should i go for 140 or 150 mm. what head angle do you guys have with 140 forks? i d like to get mine close to 67.5 at least.. will 150 be ok with 29 inch wheels?
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my p8 build is progressing.. i got almos all parts. i went with 29er ican 35 mm rims with 2.4 tires the shock is monarch plus rc3 200x57. i'm almost sure the fork will be rockshox pike. i wonder though should i go for 140 or 150 mm. what head angle do you guys have with 140 forks? i d like to get mine close to 67.5 at least.. will 150 be ok with 29 inch wheels?
It would be fine on a 150 fork. I just responded to your post on MTBR as well, but mine is a measured 67.8 degrees with 27.5+ tire and a 140mm fork.
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thank you for the help!
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Whats the difference between the a P8 and P9? Are they both 29er capable?
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Whats the difference between the a P8 and P9? Are they both 29er capable?
Yes. Go take a look at both of their geometry sheets. You will see the difference. P9 is designed for more travel. As well as a slacker HTA. Different size seat post, etc. Just go look at the geo sheets for each and you will see clear differences.
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The seat tube looks so slack! Theres no way thats 74 degree. What is the travel for the 29in version?
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The seat tube looks so slack! Theres no way thats 74 degree. What is the travel for the 29in version?
Actually, it is. You need to remember how seat tube angle is measured. It just looks super slack because of the bend in the tube. Draw a line from BB center line to top of seat post. And there is no 29er version. The same frame fits both.
Or were you referring to endo_alleys post?
Mine will be a 29er this year. 150mm front fork and a 200 x 57 rear shock. I can measure the actual rear travel and let you guys know. But Im assuming its around 130-135mm of rear travel with the 57mm stroke.
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True true... my eyes fail me lol. Im debating on a P8 or P9. Im leaning on the P9 even though a P8 would be a better choice.
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True true... my eyes fail me lol. Im debating on a P8 or P9. Im leaning on the P9 even though a P8 would be a better choice.
I'm quite like you, numbers say P8 but looks say P9.
I will be using moderate 29x2.25", a shock with only 50mm of stroke to set the P9 with 135mm rear travel and a 140mm fork.
I will have to wait for a few months to start ordering parts, but I have almost everything checked.
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What makes your guys want the P9 over the P8? travel?
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Longer travel, extra baddassness... more is better right! Thats what she said! Lol
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Longer travel, extra baddassness... more is better right! Thats what she said! Lol
Looks like about 136mm of rear travel on the P8 with a 200x57 rear shock. Also just took my fork out to 150mm.
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What is your seat angle with a 150mm fork. Isnt the frame designed for a 120mm fork and that would give you a 74 degree seat angle?
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What is your seat angle with a 150mm fork. Isnt the frame designed for a 120mm fork and that would give you a 74 degree seat angle?
Yes. Frame is designed for a 120mm travel fork. I don't want a way to accurately measure the seat angle. But it will be slacker obviously. It hasn't caused any issue climbing at 140mm. It will be fine at 150 as well.
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Thats cool. Im trying to compile pros and cons to the p8 and p9. I like the geo better on the p9 but i have a rad shock and dropper that would fit the p8. Decisions, decisions...
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Thats cool. Im trying to compile pros and cons to the p8 and p9. I like the geo better on the p9 but i have a rad shock and dropper that would fit the p8. Decisions, decisions...
Honestly if I was to do it all over again and had no parts, I would buy the P9. But, since I have a shock and dropper that wont fit that new frame... Ill stick with the P8. Not to mention the bike feels like its got a lot more travel than 135 in the rear (with the 200x57 shock).
Overall I cant complain about the bike really. A little slacker might be nice (I actually ordered an 18mm spacer which would get me about another degree or so of slackness at the HT) But am unsure if I want to put that on there or not. And we have some tight twisty single track here, so the extra slack HA might make it a bit tricky getting around the tight twisty stuff at slower speeds.
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so I stumbled across this when searching for a frame weight on the p8. sorry if this has already been brought up. but it looks like there is a company selling complete bikes with an almost identical frame (looks the same to me) its called a Barghest NX. there are some reviews and stuff on other websites too, which is nice.
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so I stumbled across this when searching for a frame weight on the p8. sorry if this has already been brought up. but it looks like there is a company selling complete bikes with an almost identical frame (looks the same to me) its called a Barghest NX. there are some reviews and stuff on other websites too, which is nice.
Yes sir. Its a P8 frame with what appears to be a different linkage (I couldnt get any information out of Ican about that linkage either) Evolve Bikes out of Canada also sells a P9 frame that they are calling the Alpha 29.
https://evolvebikes.ca/products/copy-of-evolve-alpha-29-pre-order
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so I stumbled across this when searching for a frame weight on the p8. sorry if this has already been brought up. but it looks like there is a company selling complete bikes with an almost identical frame (looks the same to me) its called a Barghest NX. there are some reviews and stuff on other websites too, which is nice.
You can still likely build the P8 cheaper yourself with better parts. Im a HUGE fan of Manitou stuff, so I actually am currently running a McLeod rear shock and this year running a Manitou Magnum Pro that I have stretched out to 150mm (same thing as the current Mattoc Pro)
I cant wait to get out on the trail!
I also converted the bike to a 29er for this year with 2.5 Maxxis Minion DHF in the front and a 2.4 Maxxis Ardent in the rear. Looking forward to the trails drying out so that I can go for a rip.
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cool another one! must be a good frame then. I can't wait to ride either summer is commi ng! so here my work in progress. stuck a 100mm fork on there I don't need 120mm. stuffed an old trek shock in there. Mr hacksaw mr angle grinder and Mr drill had and Mr tap and die all had to make appearance to squeeze it in there. but feels good so far. haven't had it out for real yet though. you guys run fill cable housing for the shifter?
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For the Barghest the HA seems to be 68.5 which is pretty steep nowadays. Is the p8 slacker? How low is the BB? I would be putting on 200x57 shock to steepen up the that HA. It could be an optical illusion that its 74 degrees but i don't believe it. The Followings SA is allegedly 74 and everyone complains that its way too slack.
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cool another one! must be a good frame then. I can't wait to ride either summer is commi ng! so here my work in progress. stuck a 100mm fork on there I don't need 120mm. stuffed an old trek shock in there. Mr hacksaw mr angle grinder and Mr drill had and Mr tap and die all had to make appearance to squeeze it in there. but feels good so far. haven't had it out for real yet though. you guys run fill cable housing for the shifter?
I do run full cable housing on everything with this bike.
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For the Barghest the HA seems to be 68.5 which is pretty steep nowadays. Is the p8 slacker? How low is the BB? I would be putting on 200x57 shock to steepen up the that HA. It could be an optical illusion that its 74 degrees but i don't believe it. The Followings SA is allegedly 74 and everyone complains that its way too slack.
The P8 is 68 degrees with a 120mm fork. Also running a 200 x 57 shock won't steepen the seat tube angle. The eye to eye is the same length. Just more stroke. It is 74 degrees. And it's easily rideable. If a person can't learn to lean weight forward on clinbs then this is likely NOT the bike for you. Neither are 80% of the mid to long travel bikes on the market in that case.
My current HTA is 66.5 degrees with a 150mm travel fork just for reference.
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can anyone confirm that mine is a p8 because I had to make a couple small notches in the linkage so that it wouldn't bind on bottom out and my shock only has a 53mm stroke. and you guys run a 57? bought it used so I actually don't know for sure maybe cuz my eye to eye on shock is 7.75 inches?
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can anyone confirm that mine is a p8 because I had to make a couple small notches in the linkage so that it wouldn't bind on bottom out and my shock only has a 53mm stroke. and you guys run a 57? bought it used so I actually don't know for sure maybe cuz my eye to eye on shock is 7.75 inches?
Post a picture.
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I hear ya. My Carbine 29 is about 71/72. With the fork at 150 i guess it would make the seat angle about 72. It would also raise the bb which might be good bc i hear its quite low.
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I hear ya. My Carbine 29 is about 71/72. With the fork at 150 i guess it would make the seat angle about 72. It would also raise the bb which might be good bc i hear its quite low.
Ill actually try and get a "close to accurate" measurement of the seat tube angle for you this weekend sometime. Remember though that mine will be slacker than listed more than likely due to the increased fork height. Ill measure it at the current seat height and then measure it correctly (seat level with stem instead of above it).
If you want a steeper seat tube you can check out Transition with their new geometry but man they are expensive!
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That would be great! The fork i would be using is 150 29er fork. It really sounds like i want to build a rig close yours.
The Transitions are nice but very expensive!
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That would be great! The fork i would be using is 150 29er fork. It really sounds like i want to build a rig close yours.
The Transitions are nice but very expensive!
No problem! Ill try and get this for you Saturday night or Sunday morning. I have to go out to storage and get a level and my angle finder.
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Take your time☺ Do you have any pictures posted anywhere on here?
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Take your time☺ Do you have any pictures posted anywhere on here?
yes, you are on my post :) There are tons of pictures in this thread. But below is a new one that I just took with the 29" wheels.
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Take your time☺ Do you have any pictures posted anywhere on here?
Alright, mine currently measures about 73 degrees measuring to the center of the seat post at ride height for me. So pretty slack. Measuring how bikes are measured (top of head tube level to where it intersects the seat tube) its 74 degrees just as stated.
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Here it is with the 29ers. This is how the bike currently sits.
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Ok cool man! Looks rad and that helps a lot!
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my bb is 11.5 inches unsagged with a 100mm fork. how about you guys?
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my bb is 11.5 inches untagged with a 100mm fork. how about you guys?
Thats going to cause you issues. That is LOW. Mine is right at 13" to center of BB on the 29" wheels and 150mm fork.
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what do you think would be the minimum for xc racing?
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what do you think would be the minimum for xc racing?
You may be OK depending on how low your obstacles are (roots, rocks, etc) But I would say you should run 120mm in the front at a minimum.
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Hi Guys
I'm New to Chinertown. Some great looking bikes on here. The posts on the P8 has been very helpful. Im looking at ordering one for myself. I've been in contact with Melody but I dont think the is to techninally clued up. I will apprechiate some advice.
What comes included with the frame?
Any Headset?
Rear through axel?
Shock mounting bolts/Bushings?
I will be doing just as much climbing and endurance riding as I will be doing trails. I will be running a 29'' RS Revelation 130mm on this bike with 2.3 inch tyres. Its mentioned on some threads, especially MTBR that the seat angle of the P8 looks deceptively slack but that it is the way the tube runs, and not the effective seat angle that is actually slack. So can you guys confirm, Its not a problem?
The BB height seems a common topic on all threads about the P8 but most of you seem to live with it. I will however not be running crown race spacers and 140mm forks to slacken things out since the 68 deg is kind of OK for me. I have 175 cranks and since I'm 6'' on the dot I wont be looking at getting shorter cranks to combat rock strikes. Any comments on this?
Thanks in advance.
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Hi Guys
I'm New to Chinertown. Some great looking bikes on here. The posts on the P8 has been very helpful. Im looking at ordering one for myself. I've been in contact with Melody but I dont think the is to techninally clued up. I will apprechiate some advice.
What comes included with the frame?
Headset, through axle, bolts for the shock (no bushings. Read back through my thread here and you will see what size bushings you need)
I will be doing just as much climbing and endurance riding as I will be doing trails. I will be running a 29'' RS Revelation 130mm on this bike with 2.3 inch tyres. Its mentioned on some threads, especially MTBR that the seat angle of the P8 looks deceptively slack but that it is the way the tube runs, and not the effective seat angle that is actually slack. So can you guys confirm, Its not a problem?
I just measured the seat angle and its just as the drawing says. Its an effective STA of 74*. Thats right in line with what every other top tier bike runs of thi caliber.
The BB height seems a common topic on all threads about the P8 but most of you seem to live with it. I will however not be running crown race spacers and 140mm forks to slacken things out since the 68 deg is kind of OK for me. I have 175 cranks and since I'm 6'' on the dot I wont be looking at getting shorter cranks to combat rock strikes. Any comments on this?
Thanks in advance.
The BB height is low on this bike. But its not much lower than a lot of other similar bikes (Transition, Norco, Ibis, etc current generation of bikes) I would advise you to keep an open mind about going to 170mm cranks though. That 5mm really does make a difference and you wont notice any power loss contrary to what a lot of these forums threads will have you believe. Im 5'11" tall and running 165's. Didnt notice a lick of difference. Anywhere.
Honestly you cannot go wrong with the P8. Its a very solid bike! And the geo charts are pretty damn accurate.
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Thanks for the awesome reply bro. Seems there is nothing to fear, just need to hit it.
I have the option of getting a Cane Creek DB Inline 200mm X 50mm at a steal. The other option would be a plain old Float Evolution which seems to be quite widely available off Giant Trance's They are the 200mm x 57mm though. So I'd get that extra 15mm of travel. However it might come down to quality not quantity in this case.
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Thanks for the awesome reply bro. Seems there is nothing to fear, just need to hit it.
I have the option of getting a Cane Creek DB Inline 200mm X 50mm at a steal. The other option would be a plain old Float Evolution which seems to be quite widely available off Giant Trance's They are the 200mm x 57mm though. So I'd get that extra 15mm of travel. However it might come down to quality not quantity in this case.
I would look at the Manitou Mcleod to be honest. You wont find a better rear shock for twice the money.
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Thanks Bro. I will check it out seems good value..
With regards to the sag & BB height. I'm in two minds about which length stroke shock to get. I don't want the extra 15 mm of rear travel to take away from the endurance capabilities. I could probably still set the sag the same as the shorter travel option but I will be paying for it in small bump sensitivity a little bit.
Melody from ICAN just informed me that they are out of stock in size L. I'm quite upset because just last week I asked her about stock levels and she said not to worry. Reason for my concern is that I have a "lift" back from China for the frame to save the airfreight. My lift is returning by April 12. Have any of you had to wait for production? How reliable are they when it comes to deadlines. My past dealing with chineese factories makes me a little nervous.
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Thanks Bro. I will check it out seems good value..
With regards to the sag & BB height. I'm in two minds about which length stroke shock to get. I don't want the extra 15 mm of rear travel to take away from the endurance capabilities. I could probably still set the sag the same as the shorter travel option but I will be paying for it in small bump sensitivity a little bit.
Melody from ICAN just informed me that they are out of stock in size L. I'm quite upset because just last week I asked her about stock levels and she said not to worry. Reason for my concern is that I have a "lift" back from China for the frame to save the airfreight. My lift is returning by April 12. Have any of you had to wait for production? How reliable are they when it comes to deadlines. My past dealing with chineese factories makes me a little nervous.
oh man, that sucks! I wouldnt depend on a deadline from ANY chinese factory. With that said, Ican in general has been VERY good to deal with, and very responsive to messages! So I guess you never know.
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Thanks Bro. I will check it out seems good value..
With regards to the sag & BB height. I'm in two minds about which length stroke shock to get. I don't want the extra 15 mm of rear travel to take away from the endurance capabilities. I could probably still set the sag the same as the shorter travel option but I will be paying for it in small bump sensitivity a little bit.
Melody from ICAN just informed me that they are out of stock in size L. I'm quite upset because just last week I asked her about stock levels and she said not to worry. Reason for my concern is that I have a "lift" back from China for the frame to save the airfreight. My lift is returning by April 12. Have any of you had to wait for production? How reliable are they when it comes to deadlines. My past dealing with chineese factories makes me a little nervous.
BOS, are you in the US? And do you need a large? Im thinking about transferring parts from my medium over to a large size frame just to see if I like the extra reach on the large or not. If I end up doing that, I would likely put my medium frame up for sale.
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Pierce, I'm afraid I'm not. Bad luck there.
Melody came back to me and said If I made payment they could manufacture in 10 days time. So I'm in luck.
Have any of you done a transfer to their Western Union account? Or have all payed by PayPal.
Getting quite excited now.
Can you see any problems If I asked them to disassemble the frame so they can use a smaller box? How complicated are the small parts?
Regards
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Pierce, I'm afraid I'm not. Bad luck there.
Melody came back to me and said If I made payment they could manufacture in 10 days time. So I'm in luck.
Have any of you done a transfer to their Western Union account? Or have all payed by PayPal.
Getting quite excited now.
Can you see any problems If I asked them to disassemble the frame so they can use a smaller box? How complicated are the small parts?
Regards
use paypal. and i doubt they will break it down.
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Yes, use Paypal. Paypal fees are your only insurance in case something goes wrong. Not that I don't trust Ican but Moore's law is everywhere in this world! ;)
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Great. Thanks again for the advice. I'll go with PayPal then.
Can't wait to post my P8. I am thinking of getting a paint job done on it. I'm not stripping it down after I build it up. I have gone the decal route before and it starts wearing after a year or so. I guess one can just do another set.
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Hey guys, so I pulled the trigger on another frame. My medium P8 will be up for sale very soon. Im thinking 400.00 plus actual shipping cost via bikeflights to anywhere in the US. I think thats roughly half what it would cost you to get a new P8 stateside. So I think thats fair.
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You sticking with the P8? That's a good review right there. The P9 does look nice, and apparently the same weight according to the Ican website. However 150mm is just a bit to much for what I do 90%of the time. Besides. Some 27.5+ tyres will add an inch travel anyway.
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You sticking with the P8? That's a good review right there. The P9 does look nice, and apparently the same weight according to the Ican website. However 150mm is just a bit to much for what I do 90%of the time. Besides. Some 27.5+ tyres will add an inch travel anyway.
I actually picked up an Intense Recluse for about the same price as a P8 would have cost me to get here. That was the initial plan though! Had I not wanted more reach it wouldn't be for sale.
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Nice one. I've always had a soft spot for Intense.
Sorry, another question: What was the BB shell width on the P8?
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Nice one. I've always had a soft spot for Intense.
Sorry, another question: What was the BB shell width on the P8?
traditional 68/73mm BSA BB.
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And the frame will be on its way to its new home in Canada on Friday :)
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So I received my frame this weekend. Hardly excited because not fully prepared and waiting for parts.
I'm going to post what I rode before so that you have an idea of what I will be comparing the new P8 to.
The highlights of my current build is:
110m travel Silverback Sprada 29
Revelation XX WC 120mm
WTB KOM I23 '29 on American Classic Disc hubs
Specialised Comand Post dropper
XT 1x11 drivetrain
Crank Bross Opium 3 15mm rise Bars 640mm
Picture Below
I do a good mix of endurance and trail riding. My weekend rides are either trailpark style or 2-3hour marathon type riding. dudes while mid week rides are a mix of rocky singletrack and fire roads mostly solo. I'm really enjoying my current build apart from the realization that my ride will only be getting heavier the more burly I go (duh what did I expect) Point is, with a carbon frame It affords me some extras without going over 13kg(28lb) which if you do any kind of marathon style racing is a no-no. I had a history in dirt jumping and dual slalom in the late 90's and Early 2000's so I can probably get away with a little more on a 120mm bike than most however I am considering an upgrade to a Fox 34 or Pike 130mm fork at a later stage.
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I forgot the photo of my current steed before I post the new frame.
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So Here's my new frame! I must say, much burlier in real life. The P9 must be awesome, because this alone was - WOW.
Sure, There are small imperfections on here that are probably not there on a Santacruz or something, but at just 100g heavier than a Tallboy and 1/3rd of the price, who's smiling?!
I am struggling to find the boost converting kit for my rear 12x142mm hub. I just rebuilt these so I'm not that keen to break them up again right now since I will most probably get a few other things I need to replace during the build.
So, I put my wheel in the dropouts and threaded the axel through.(pic attached) the gaps on the side of the wheel axel were seriously 2mm a side. I guess it could have been 3+6 which =6mm. The "standards police" will probably flame me for saying this but what the heck, It took no effort at all to flex the frame back to 142mm. Which I know... you lose the benefits of Boost, you might be cross threading it by 0.5degrees, your chain line will be out by 0.5 deg(I checked) But for the moment until I get new hubs and a new wheelset built up, how bad can it be?
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Its stressing the carbon and will only get worse when you ride it. Yes, they flex. But they are designed to support load at 148mm spec. I wouldnt personally risk that myself without knowing any long term effects. But with that said, to each their own 8)
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Have you considered something like this:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Bicycle-Boost-Hub-Conversion-Kit-Hub-Adapter-12-x-142mm-thru-axle-to-12-x-148mm/32829533376.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.2.41431822kW2IGS&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10152_5722813_10151_10065_10344_10068_10342_5722613_10343_5722913_10340_10341_10698_10697_10696_10084_10083_5722713_10618_10307_5711213_10059_10534_308_100031_10103_441_10624_10623_10622_10621_10620_5722513_5711313,searchweb201603_2,ppcSwitch_2&algo_expid=9ac71a7b-74ea-427a-82ee-9104eb3f0deb-0&algo_pvid=9ac71a7b-74ea-427a-82ee-9104eb3f0deb&priceBeautifyAB=0 (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Bicycle-Boost-Hub-Conversion-Kit-Hub-Adapter-12-x-142mm-thru-axle-to-12-x-148mm/32829533376.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.2.41431822kW2IGS&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10152_5722813_10151_10065_10344_10068_10342_5722613_10343_5722913_10340_10341_10698_10697_10696_10084_10083_5722713_10618_10307_5711213_10059_10534_308_100031_10103_441_10624_10623_10622_10621_10620_5722513_5711313,searchweb201603_2,ppcSwitch_2&algo_expid=9ac71a7b-74ea-427a-82ee-9104eb3f0deb-0&algo_pvid=9ac71a7b-74ea-427a-82ee-9104eb3f0deb&priceBeautifyAB=0)
Never tried it myself, but maybe a good solution?
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I'm having the spacers made as we speak guys. Was more wondering how something so subtle can really damage a part thats designed to take pretty major forces and that normal riding will exert forces at far more critical angles.
What was far more important was when I popped one of the pivot bolts out. Being a Chinerello virgin the little voice inside my head said.. just check the pivots for grease before you try ride it. To be honest. I guess one will never know exactly what the carbon layup looks like inside the frame, but one area where one can kind of see that you're not buying that Tallboy is the pivots. The holes where carbon were wrapped around bushes(plugs for pivot holes) were done pretty roughly. Its all covered up pretty nicely but there are a couple of voids in pretty high stress places on some of the seatstay pivots on my frame.
There's some photos below but not of the voids. Took me about 3 hours to do all pivots. Should have done it before the bike was assembled but I had a local bike shop assemble it to save time.
Something else I noticed. The pivot near the rear axel had a steel bolt which at 30g a pop is some unnecessary weight to be adding so close to the suspended end of the bike. Maybe room for improvement in the future. I see they hollowed them out to try save weight. I bet it can be made from high grade Ali. All my bikes Iv'e ever had had Ali bolts at all pivots. But this is a minor. Just thought I'd share.
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You can see all the way down the head tube and inside of the down tube if you remove the fork. The layup on these is just as strong any any other IMO.
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Have you considered something like this:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Bicycle-Boost-Hub-Conversion-Kit-Hub-Adapter-12-x-142mm-thru-axle-to-12-x-148mm/32829533376.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.2.41431822kW2IGS&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10152_5722813_10151_10065_10344_10068_10342_5722613_10343_5722913_10340_10341_10698_10697_10696_10084_10083_5722713_10618_10307_5711213_10059_10534_308_100031_10103_441_10624_10623_10622_10621_10620_5722513_5711313,searchweb201603_2,ppcSwitch_2&algo_expid=9ac71a7b-74ea-427a-82ee-9104eb3f0deb-0&algo_pvid=9ac71a7b-74ea-427a-82ee-9104eb3f0deb&priceBeautifyAB=0 (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Bicycle-Boost-Hub-Conversion-Kit-Hub-Adapter-12-x-142mm-thru-axle-to-12-x-148mm/32829533376.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.2.41431822kW2IGS&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10152_5722813_10151_10065_10344_10068_10342_5722613_10343_5722913_10340_10341_10698_10697_10696_10084_10083_5722713_10618_10307_5711213_10059_10534_308_100031_10103_441_10624_10623_10622_10621_10620_5722513_5711313,searchweb201603_2,ppcSwitch_2&algo_expid=9ac71a7b-74ea-427a-82ee-9104eb3f0deb-0&algo_pvid=9ac71a7b-74ea-427a-82ee-9104eb3f0deb&priceBeautifyAB=0)
Never tried it myself, but maybe a good solution?
Aren't those rotor spacers? I had those on my current setup (CS-496). My boost hubs & frame combo sort of misalignment the rotors & caliphers, so the mechanic installed one of those on each rotor. They work fine now.
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So I Stuck my normal rear wheel in there and went for a ride... You guessed it. Nothing happened.
The rear shock I have in there has a firm compression tune and its not ideal. The suspension works but its not what It should be. I can feel its just a little harsh. I found a 200 x 57mm Float Performance DPS EVOL on Ebay UK which I'm going to pick up on a business strip in 2 weeks.
Another thing that didn't work out so well; The Dropper post I had is also not working out very well at the moment. Though the effective seat angle might be 73 deg on paper It gets slacker the higher the seatpost is raised. Does that make sense? My seatpost had a setback which stretched out the cockpit completely. I don't have a shorter stem than the 75mm at the moment, so I will test it with a 50mm and see if it helps, but in my experience it just feels like I'm sitting further over the back wheel.
So I'm selling off my old frame and dropper before buying more stuff. But I'm getting a dropper with Zero offset.
So how was the ride? Coming from a Ali FS frame I could feel the lighter weight immediately. The frame is also very stiff. Besides the carbon which is naturally stiffer, the wide rear end which dwarfed my 2.25 Ardent Race 29'er tires must play a part.
The geometry feels pretty good so far. I'm actually quite enjoying smacking corners and lofting off kickers. Its got more pop than my old bike thats for sure.
Need to do a "proper ride" on proper trials for a couple of hours to give a better report so, Until then..
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You can measure the seat angle yourself by using a ruler or other long straight object and run it from the center of the BB to the center of the seat post at the top.
Mine measured about 73 degrees measuring to the center of the seat post at ride height for me. So pretty slack. Measuring how bikes are measured (top of head tube level to where it intersects the seat tube) its 74 degrees just as stated.
Also, why wouldnt you just buy the adapters for the rear wheel? There is no way the drop outs are setting in their square without pinching the frame. Its not possible. The bikes designed for a 148 drop out spacing, not 142. Thats a 6mm (nearly 1/4 inch) difference.
To each their own I guess.
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Regarding the seat angle:
It would seem the Effective seat angle is slightly flawed because the longer/higher the seat post the slacker the effective seat angle becomes. It is correct for a sweet spot but I'm perhaps at the upper limit on a Large.
Regarding the wheel spacing. I wouldn't do it if it would damage anything. I will upgrade my wheelset eventually and have had some spacers made. Like I said 3mm per side / make that 2mm per side. (my frame was closer to 146mm spacing anyway) I had some spacers turned in the workshop here at work but I need the disc spacer.
I have done 3 rides since and I'm really enjoying the bike. Its a pity I don't have a dropper post at the moment since it definitely gives one an edge in hairy situations. The 120mm feels plenty right now and I'm starting to wonder what the 135mm is going to feel like once I get my shock next week. Will be nice to do a comparison though. The EVOL airspring should allow me to sit higher in the travel anyway which is what I'd like.
I think a remote for the rear shock will be a nice upgrade since I'm only really using the full open mode for downhills at the moment. Its just to active to use when not necessary, especially when at the flick of a switch it can feel like my Rocky Mountain element did. This is nice though and a perfect compromise if it can be controlled through a remote. Bending down to flip the lever on the shock is going to get tired pretty quickly.
One last thing. is it just me or do the cables inside the downtube rattle like hell? I'm considering shoving some foam in there to quiet things down.
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Hello, I wonder there will be any clearance issues with rear shock with reservoir like rockshox monarch plus rc3?
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One last thing. is it just me or do the cables inside the downtube rattle like hell? I'm considering shoving some foam in there to quiet things down.
There is an existing post here about using some foam. But I can't find it...
On my bikes I did cut an insulation tube used for heating pipes.
Cutting a section of about 30mm by 20mm, and about the length of the downtube.
Then remove the fork, and insert it from the headtube down to the bottom bracket.
Canyon have an interesting approach.
They have a hole between the two inserts to screw the bottle cage in the downtube.
And a special plastic hook, grabs the cable suspending them in the middle of the downtube.
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Foam sleeve... there is an actual bike product, norattles and another but I cannot remember the name.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00K85ASYA/?coliid=I1QUYQ9S8X7AWY&colid=3511P7RWFNKOU&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
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Foam sleeve... there is an actual bike product, norattles and another but I cannot remember the name.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00K85ASYA/?coliid=I1QUYQ9S8X7AWY&colid=3511P7RWFNKOU&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
This is a very cleaver Idea. Thanks!
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Foam sleeve... there is an actual bike product, norattles and another but I cannot remember the name.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00K85ASYA/?coliid=I1QUYQ9S8X7AWY&colid=3511P7RWFNKOU&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Is it easy to perform maintenance and replace cables after inserting the foam into the tube?
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Foam sleeve... there is an actual bike product, norattles and another but I cannot remember the name.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00K85ASYA/?coliid=I1QUYQ9S8X7AWY&colid=3511P7RWFNKOU&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Is it easy to perform maintenance and replace cables after inserting the foam into the tube?
What maintenance are you going to do on it besides replacing housing? In either case it will be as difficult or easy as it was getting the sleeve in there in the first place.
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Is it easy to perform maintenance and replace cables after inserting the foam into the tube?
If you go full hose.
An easy way to replace it, is to have a ~1mm steel cable, with 2x the shifter length that you put into the hose.
Then into the new hose, in a row, so they touch each other, with the cable going out of the end of the two hoses.
Pull the old out of the frame, while pushing the new inside, insuring they stay in a row together.
So even if you have foam, the new hose follow the path of the old.