Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29er => Topic started by: Sussed. on July 08, 2014, 11:38:14 AM
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This occurred to me today so i'll go first !
What has everyone running XX1 done with their front mech bracket that came on the frame ?
Ive taken mine off and replaced the bolts.
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most of us have 056/57 frames that didn't have the direct mount.
not many 256 frame owners yet - does it look clean without it?
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It will when I find something a bit more low profile to replace the hex bolts with ! :) I just chucked em back in to stop any water/dirt accumulating in there !
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On my IP-036 I just removed the bracket, left the holes alone.
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I just left the hole for mine empty, was gonna squirt some silicone over it but never got round to it, I know a company are now doing blanking plates with a bottle opener for the high mounts, but can't remember who!
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Bottle Opener Blanking plates ! What a great idea 8)
Popped into my LBS for a helmet and he (Hello Leigh !) had a rummage around and came up with these .....
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/60022025/Low%20profile%20Bolts.jpeg)
Happy with the finish.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/60022025/Low%20Profile%20Bolts%20Fitted.jpeg)
As I don't use a bottle cage two went into those !
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So after my last ride round a local trail a rattle has appeared >:(
Offending item -
(https://db.tt/q2Xkhs2Z)
I was so impressed with the engineering of the whole group set this has annoyed me immensely ! Such a little thing but a rattle is a rattle....
Time to investigate !
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When I had the XX1 gripshifter, I had the same rattle. It was just another characteristic I was not crazy about which drove me to go back to a conventional trigger shifter. That was a year ago, and it appears SRAM still hasn't fixed that problem.
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I have just stripped down the GS and put two small sticky foam pads under the offending cover to take out any play. Re-assembled and then each end of the GS clamped together tightly which has removed the rattle. Not something I should have to be doing with a top end component >:(
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After a particularly sandy, gritty ride at Sherwood Pines UK I stripped down the drivetrain and gave it all a good clean and service. Once reassembled everything was back to being as smooth and crisp as the day it was installed. (I reckon i have 600 miles on the bike)
I checked everything for wear and tear as it came off and to my untrained eye it all looked like new except for the chainring where the black coating had worn on the teeth which was to be expected. I was surprised the jockey wheels had no wear at all as they are plastic !
I haven't checked the stretch on the chain but will do that later this week when I ride past my LBS
I have been looking ahead at replacement parts as they become worn. XX1 is an expensive drivetrain but so far worth every penny.
After stumbling across an absolute steal on ebay for an FSA Ceramic BB30 I have been looking at other upgrades, mainly chainrings, chains, jockey wheels and the 42t cog.
Has anyone reading this upgraded/replaced XX1 with non standard parts.
The main component catching my eye is a one piece chainring by absolute black !
(https://db.tt/JbYFu3Xz)
http://absoluteblack.cc/sram-spiderless.html
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Typically, jockey wheels are made from a ceramic material, never heard or seen a plastic one, at least not on either of my XX1 setups.
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They certainly felt like plastic in my hand ! I know the bearings are ceramic.
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Sorry I wasn't more specific, the XX1 r/d uses ceramic jockey wheels. However, I've seen some Shimano parts that are plastic.
Sussed, I like the absoluteBlack chainring, particularly the fact that it's made from 7075 aluminum, not sure what the SRAM OEM ring is made from, however, I wore out one in 1 season, IMO, it should have lasted at least a few years. Luckily SRAM gave me a warranty replacement. When I'm ready to buy a replacement I will look for a chainring with high wear characteristics.
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I went with Wolf Tooth.(http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0230/9291/products/WTC32tBlack_1024x1024.jpg?v=1387506380)
So far so good no signs of dropping.
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Like it ! Do you have a weight for that 325 ? The one I would need doesn't advertise its weight on the website !
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Well, looks like after 800mi and a little more than a year of riding with XX1 on my hardtail, I have a worn out XX1 cassette. It's a pisser as a replacement cassette is up to $400. I had the LBS contact SRAM and I am getting a warranty replacement as SRAM says there was a wear issue with the early XX1 parts that they now have addressed. Now I'm wondering if I need to call them and ask about the XX1 cassette on my IP-036.
I really like how nicely the XX1 drivetrain works, not so happy with the wear issues I'm having with the chainring and cassette.
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Not a good news, for all of us.
Did you see it coming, or you saw the wear all of a sudden?
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Like it ! Do you have a weight for that 325 ? The one I would need doesn't advertise its weight on the website !
Sussed, the WolfTooth 32 tooth is 73 grams. The stock spider alone is 43 grams.
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Can you post pictures of the wear? How did you know it was worn? I have well over 450 miles on my X01 cassette and the only defect I can find is the black coating is worn down on the most commonly used cogs.
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SRAM's explanation was the chain would out last the chainring & the cassette. The chain was approx 4X harder, or more wear resistant than the the other components.
Below are photos of the XX1 cassette. Pic #1 is a stock SRAM XX1 photo. Pic #2 is my IP-036 XX1 cassette with 400 miles. Pic #3 is my IP-056 cassette with 800 miles. It might be difficult to see in the photos but look for the DEPTH of the root between the teeth. The cassette with 800 miles has deeper spaces between the teeth. When I get the new and old cassettes next to each other I will upload another picture showing them side by side.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v193/S2k_Dude/sram_mtb_xx1_cassette_new.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v193/S2k_Dude/XX1_cassette_400mi-1.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v193/S2k_Dude/XX1_cassette_800mi-1.jpg)
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Sorry, no time to clean everything prior to posting thee pictures. When I post the new next to the worn cassette, it might be easier to see the wear between the two.
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So after my last ride round a local trail a rattle has appeared >:(
Offending item -
(https://db.tt/q2Xkhs2Z)
I was so impressed with the engineering of the whole group set this has annoyed me immensely ! Such a little thing but a rattle is a rattle....
Time to investigate !
Had the same rattle. All you have to do is wrap electrical tape around the carbon cage. Cheap and easy way to get rid of it. I find electrical tape works wonders on my bike for lots of easy fixes. LOL
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Like it ! Do you have a weight for that 325 ? The one I would need doesn't advertise its weight on the website !
Sussed, the WolfTooth 32 tooth is 73 grams. The stock spider alone is 43 grams.
Cheers mate !
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Update:
Received the new XX1 cassette & XX1 chain from SRAM. Upon comparing the new to the cassette with 800 miles, I didn't see a huge difference in wear between the two, so I am now thinking there really isn't much wear on the original XX1 cassette. Also, I did not see any visual differences between the old and new, materials and plating all look the same so when SRAM says they made changes, they are not changes you can see with the naked eye.
I first installed the new cassette with the current XX1 chain that has maybe 100 miles on it. The top seven gears were smooth and quiet, but the lower four gears now had a bit of grinding. I adjusted the derailleur a couple time with no improvement, I removed and reinstalled the cassette, double check that I torqued it to 40 N-m but the bit of grinding in the lower gears was still there. Thought it was odd since it was just a few of the gears, yet every part of the drivetrain did not have many miles of use.
Finally I tried flipping the chain over just to see what would happen. I saw an improvement after flipping the chain but still has some grinding so I decided to install the new chain. At this point I have a new chain, new cassette, chainring with about 100 miles on it and r/d with about 100 miles on it.
Finally everything is smooth again. I take it for a ride on the trails, and wouldn't you know it, I am back to having my original issue with an occasional pop out of the rear of the drivetrain after shifting. The scenario is, I drop down a gear, I apply about a half to a full rotation of the crank, and POP! I get a clunk sound out of the drivetrain. It only happens once after shifting, doesn't happen again as long as I maintain the same gear. If I go up a gear, then drop back into the same gear again, it may randomly clunk or it may not.
On the bike stand, the drivetrain shifts perfectly. On the trail the drivetrain shifts perfectly, accept with I get a pop/clunk once in a while after shifting.
After all this, I just don't know what the problem is. It's just an annoyance, and SRAM has been great about swapping out parts for me but I'm to the point where I'm not sure what's left to do. I'm thinking I may just have to live with it.
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On my XX1 I get some grinding when I am standing an pedaling but nowhere else. I messed around with the barrel adjuster but not sure that helped. I am wondering If i am getting wear on the cassette. I checked the chain with the chain tool and its not stretched.
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My cassette had over 800 miles on it, it's most likely not your cassette. The chain will make a little noise in the extreme ends of the cassette since your chain is being pulled on an angle. However, I've heard nor felt any more grinding while pedaling hard versus pedaling lightly.
If I get a chance I will get out my calipers and see if I can measure any differences between the old and new cassette.
I've yet to wear out a chain to the point where my chain gauge shows even .75 of wear, what ever that really means. So far the chain life has been great. The only thing I can say for sure is the front chain ring wore out in 700 miles, when I put a new chain on it was very clear the front ring was not meshing well with the new chain.
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The grinding for me was cured with the line adjustment screw on the reader of the derailuer. I'm not referring to the high and low adjustment screws but the other one. I did find the derailuer hard to adjust at first. And it will feel a bit like grinding in the smallest cog no matter what simply because of the sharp radius the chain is subjected to. It really can't be as smooth as the other gears.
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The grinding for me was cured with the line adjustment screw on the reader of the derailuer. I'm not referring to the high and low adjustment screws but the other one. I did find the derailuer hard to adjust at first. And it will feel a bit like grinding in the smallest cog no matter what simply because of the sharp radius the chain is subjected to. It really can't be as smooth as the other gears.
I agree, there is a bit of roughness in the smallest cog with both my XX1 setups, but that is to be expected. Like you said, wrapping around the 10T cog causes the chain to turn in a very tight radius.
It is seeming more and more to me that, with XX1, all the components will wear out together and when the time comes you replace the cassette, chain, and chainring at the same time. Unlike a normal drivetrain, where you would replace the chain up to 4 times before replacing the cassette and chainring.
I guess I will wait and see how long the components last.
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It is seeming more and more to me that, with XX1, all the components will wear out together and when the time comes you replace the cassette, chain, and chainring at the same time.
Hi Carbon_Dude, I cleaned my 28T chainring yesterday.
And saw some clear wear marks on it, and it has only 500km.
The cassette is fine.
I don't have a tool to measure my chain.
So I don't know about it.
What explanation did you/your lbs gave to SRAM so they replaced it for you?
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Premature wear out. 500km (310 mi) seems awfully soon for a chain ring. However, in my case I had put a new chain on and found, after 700 mi, my 32T chain ring would not mesh well with the new chain. Keep in mind, the old chain was not yet measuring much wear using my Park Tools chain gauge. SRAM has stated the XX1 chain does not wear quickly since it was made to have very high wear resistance. However, the next component to wear out is the chain ring. SRAM is aware that the chain rings wear quickly. I had thought the rear cassette was worn but upon receiving a warranty replacement I could not see a difference between the new one and mine with 800 miles of usage.
At this time I would probably consider going with an aftermarket ring once my SRAM ring wears out again.
Hope that helps.
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I don't have a tool to measure my chain.
Sure you do - if you have a ruler. Measure out 12" along the bottom run of chain (derailleur keeps it under tension so this is a good place to measure) and 0" and 12" should happen at the same point - center of a pin, end of a plate, whatever. If it's off by less than 1/8", you're good. 1/8" or more, replace the chain.
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carbon_dude, I will try to get the SRAM replacement.
But as you say, trying another brand may be the best.
cmh, thanks for the measurement trick.
I'm just coming from a night ride, and will check tomorrow if I'm still within the 1/8" range.