Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29er => Topic started by: lukedwr on August 10, 2014, 09:35:57 AM
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I was going to re-use my hope minis on my new 057 frame, with the +20mm adaptor (IS to PM) and have 200/180 rotors, however on the rear with a 180 rotor it's still not a big enough rotor!
(http://s26.postimg.org/x2ufqwv3d/2014_08_10_14_42_48.jpg)
So am i doing something stupid (always a possibility!)?
I have budgeted for new brakes, something from this decade!, so any suggestions welcome (and if/what adaptors i would need, fork is rockshox pm)
Thanks
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That is odd for your rear brake. The IP-057 is designed for a 160mm rear brake rotor and post mount caliper with no adapter. My XT caliper bolts straight onto the frame, if I wanted to use a 180mm rear rotor, I would need an adapter that would move the caliper 10mm outward. You need your caliper to move another 10mm inward. I've never used IS mount calipers on the Chiner frames so I don't have any advice for you other than go ahead and upgrade your brakes to Shimano XT, you will be very happy with how well they perform.
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I was going to re-use my hope minis on my new 057 frame, with the +20mm adaptor (IS to PM) and have 200/180 rotors, however on the rear with a 180 rotor it's still not a big enough rotor!
(http://s26.postimg.org/x2ufqwv3d/2014_08_10_14_42_48.jpg)
So am i doing something stupid (always a possibility!)?
I have budgeted for new brakes, something from this decade!, so any suggestions welcome (and if/what adaptors i would need, fork is rockshox pm)
Thanks
I also don't have much of a clue about IS mounts but can the mount be reversed ? That looks like it would bring the left hand side of the calliper down and closer to the rotor. However it may take the RHS up and away, difficult to tell without it being in my hands !
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I agree, possibly flip it left-right, that might bring the caliper closer. Although, I would think you would have already tried that.
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are both your brakes IS mount?...if not, get new hose for front and run to the back...shorten the current back to work on the front with the adapter.
Try the adapter on your PM fork - you will find it will work there - set up differently then you have pictured.
If you transition from front to back...part of the PM gets in the way....now, do you cut a little away to make it fit?
I was in somewhat the same boat with some KCNC X7's...I decided on the easy route and got Shimano brakes.
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Unfortunately that's the only way if fits on, and both are identical (IS mounts). :( I'll put it in the spares box, it is ancient anyway!
So what brakes? If XT, do they just bolt on, and what would be the rear rotor size? Any preferred rotor makes?
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XT M-785 are the brakes I have with Icetech rotors. There are lighter rotors out there but I've had very good experience with the Shimano rotors. The M-785's are the best brakes I've ever ridden with, yes they just bolt on but you will need to shorten the brake lines. They come with a spare insert and olive so you can shorten the line once easily. If you have never worked with hydraulic lines before, do some research. You will find lots of Youtube videos that show the process. You can even shorten lines without the need to bleed the line if you are careful. I have 180mm fr/160mm rear 6-bolt rotors. However, the front needs a Shimano adapter to space the calipers out for the larger rotor. Some people prefer even larger rotors but then you need the appropriate adapters.
XTR brakes offer pad spacing adjustment which I have not found is necessary and they cost much more. If your budget allows, it's nice to get the best but XT brakes are very good.
Brake levers and calipers:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/mr-ride-2014-Shimano-XT-M785-B-DISC-BRAKE-Hydraulic-Set-Resin-Pad-w-Fin-Black-/331263104514?pt=US_Brakes&hash=item4d20d1d602
Rotors:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/423968-70-New-Shimano-XT-RT86-Ice-Tech-6-Bolt-Disc-Rotor-Variable-Item-/201111419236?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&var=&hash=item2ed32cb964
Not sure what part of the world you are in but the above links are just examples. You will also need the spacer from the front post mount.
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Thanks for that, it's likely i'll be getting those. I'm in the UK and the prices look similar.
I'm quite happy working with the hydraulics so shortening lines isn't a problem.
Thanks again for the advice!
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Chain reaction has better pricing on XT than that. Only bummed they don't have US standard left hand front brakes in stock..
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You could buy the
proper euro standard F/R and swap the hoses?
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Chain reaction has better pricing on XT than that. Only bummed they don't have US standard left hand front brakes in stock..
I just bought the left hand lever rear system from Chain Reaction and shortened the line. It's the same otherwise.
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Since you are in the UK, you should look at Wiggle.com or merlincycles.com
I went with Shimano from merlincycles...they came moto style...I reversed and shortened them and didn't need to bleed them.
Also, I didn't get the yellow vice-block: the plastic piece that holds your cable in a vice while you tap the 'needle' in
I found if I put some mineral oil on the 'needle', wrapped some tape on the hydraulic hose and then grabbed the hose where the tape was(1 to 1.25 inches down) with an adjustble pliers(so teeth/jaws graw it flatly and not one part of the tool)
I could hold the cable with the pliers, put the needle in the cable and use a hammer to tap it in.
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Interesting- I also got mine from Merlin, and I got the typical US set up (front brake on left). The site doesn't ask which side you want as far as I can tell.
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Got them from Chain as were £54 each.
Shortening/bleeding was easy, just trying to adjust the calipers/pads so they don't rub....grrr
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Take the caliper off, remove the pads, push the pistons in with a plastic tire lever, re-install the caliper loosely, clamp the lever down so the pads align to the rotor, tighter the caliper down, release the brake lever, spin the wheel, should not be rubbing.
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If the pads touch the rotor only sometimes.
You may have the rotor that is not perfectly flat.
It occurs, even on new ones.
If you are in this case. Rotate the wheel slowly.
Remember the spoke, in front of the brake pads, where the noise starts.
Rotate until the noise stops, and look at the spoke too.
Take the rotor at the middle between the two spokes, with your hand.
And try to push(very gently) the rotor inside.
If it gets better, but still hearing a noise, push a bit harder.
If it get worse, pull the rotor outside instead.
After a few trials, you should get the rotor flat enough to avoid any noise.
I had this on my build with Hope's rotors.