Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29er => Topic started by: jwilds1 on September 19, 2014, 09:01:03 AM
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Hey all,
Came here from MTBR. I've reignited the flames of mountain biking from 20 years ago within the last two years and I'm looking to build up from scratch over the winter. I have some minor experience working on bikes, but I'm not too worried about putting it together because I have many coworkers and friends who race and work on bikes on the side. My stable currently consists of Craigslist finds ($400 Specialized Rockhopper 26er and a $350 Specialized TriCross single speed I use for commuting) or cheap bastard bikes ($800 Motobecane Fatbike I bought last winter). So, needless to say I can't see myself dropping $3k on a bike, especially with my use - a few times a month at most and no racing. I'm more focused on building a bike that's reliable and the build experience itself (need to keep my hands busy or I lose my mind). I'm no weight weenie - I figure it would be easier/cheaper for me to lose 15 pounds, which I have to, than find ounces in bike components.
With that said, here's what I'm thinking:
Frame - IP-057 with spare hangers & suck guard = $550 shipped
Drivetrain / Brakes - Shimano Zee = $650 shipped (found on eBay)
Wheels = $350 to $400
Fork = $300 to $400
Tires = $100
Cockpit - ?????
Misc - ????
Are there any other budget-blowers that I'm missing? Looking for recommendations wherever you guys have them. If I don't get a whole lot of use out of the fatbike this winter, I could either sell it or part it for use here. Looking for 1x10, and there's another build here that used Zee components. The costs I listed out comes to about $2k, but if at all possible I'd like to get it down to around $1500. Feel free to smack some sense into me if that's unrealistic.
Thanks!
- John
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The cockpit part is the headset, handlebar, stem and grips.
The missing thing are the seatpost, seatclamp, saddle.
Don't forget the rotors, thay are not always part of a brake set.
For the cockpit, seatpost, seatclamp and sadle, you can look on AliExpress. There are some cheap and descent kits (handlebar, stem, seatpost), less than 100 USD. I got my saddle also from AliExpress. You can find there a lot.
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I gotta plug Merlin Cycles again- http://www.merlincycles.com/mountain-bike-groupsets-44166/
I got my XT 2x10 groupset from them. They have XT including brakes and rotors for around $600 (+ or - depending on options), or Deore including brakes and rotors for $370. Deore is out of stock right now, but if you're not in a hurry this would be a good option. You can convert to a 1x with either set, then put the front der on ebay. XT has the clutch rear deraileur so it may be better for a 1x, but the Deore should work with a chain guide.
To get it to $1500 you could look at an ebay frame (around $425 shipped) and rigid fork. That and all of the Ali express bits are a little of an unknown, but you've got all winter to research. :)
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Well, I've come to the conclusion that $2000 was wishful thinking ;D
I've spent the last few weeks shopping around, and here's what I've come up with:
(http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RWzySdJFA_g/VDaZFiDeEII/AAAAAAAAKV4/Q84Q7zQXjzU/s800/Capture.JPG)
What are your thoughts? The XT Groupset is 2x10, and although I could've gotten closer to $2k going with SLX, what's another $150? Also, there doesn't seem to be a whole lot of Flyxii love, mostly xmiplay? Why is that? Last question - is there an "idiot's guide" or walkthrough for building from scratch? I'm mechanically inclined, but I'd rather do something once than screw up step 1 and not realizing it til step 10...
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You could save 100.00 + on your wheels and get a lighter set in the process.
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Yeah, and why flow rims? They are pretty heavy for the kind of riding these frames are designed for. Definitely a good place to save some weight. And even then at over $700 they seem v.expensive. Hope wheel sets here in the UK are like £350
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You could order a set of 30mm hookless carbon with Novotech hubs for ~$550 from Iplay and combine shipping with your frame and all. They would come in at ~1600-1700g. Very strong and better matched to the type of riding that frame is designed for. They *should* be much more robust than an allow rim.
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Thanks for the advice. I was trying to go "bulletproof" on the wheelset, hence the Flows. I was also comparing Arch EX, but at the same price and same weight I figured it wouldn't hurt. Are these Novatech hubs reliable? I need to do some comparison between light-bicycle and xmiplay...
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Are these Novatech hubs reliable? I need to do some comparison between light-bicycle and xmiplay...
Yes, they are reliable. They're coming with 'cheap' bearings. But you can easily replace them with ceramic bearings and then you've really great hubs.
I've got two 30mm hookles wheel sets with Novatec hubs. And I will replace the bearings with ceramic bearings when the old one needs to be replaced. There is no need now, they running very smooth and without resistance.
Light-bicycle and xmiplay ? Both are good. Got mine from xmiplay, because the good communications. Didn't had contact with LB, but someone on this forum had. I think they've got the same wheel sets. So, that's up to you.
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Hey MTB, you have a link to those bearings? I think I've seen it linked to before but I can't find the thread.
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Sorry, don't have it yet
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Thanks, all.. I'm committed now -
$1300 to XMIPlay
$575 to Ribble
$600 to Amazon...
I'll start up another thread when I get to building, which probably won't be until Christmas-time.. I know I'm going to have TONS of questions.
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Hey MTB, you have a link to those bearings? I think I've seen it linked to before but I can't find the thread.
I found an eBay page with bearings:
http://stores.ebay.nl/TheHubDoctor/Novatec-MTB-bearings-/_i.html?_fsub=3504825016&_sid=1012926&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322
For the hubs I've got, the 771 and 772 , I need 6902-2RS Bearing, also known as 61902-2RS ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOVATEC-D712SB-REAR-HYBRID-CERAMIC-BALL-BEARING-REAR-HUB-REBUILD-KIT-/231016322239?pt=US_Hubs&hash=item35c9a554bf ).
[edit]
Interesting topic on mtbr about Chinese (Hybrid) Ceramic bearings:
http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-components/anyone-using-boca-ceramic-bearings-their-29er-814033.html
In that case, stay on steel ball bearings. Much cheaper: http://www.bearings.uk.com/acatalog/6902_Bearing.html .
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Where did you find the weight for the Kenda tires? On the Jenson USA site they are showing 671g +/-30g. Is that weight for a 29er 2.1 tire? That is light and cheeeep!
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Where did you find the weight for the Kenda tires? On the Jenson USA site they are showing 671g +/-30g. Is that weight for a 29er 2.1 tire? That is light and cheeeep!
Not sure where I found it, but yes that's the 2.1.
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I think that weight is for a 26"
Here is a quote from Singletracks: http://www.singletracks.com/blog/mtb-gear/kenda-small-block-eight-tire-review/
"Each tire weighs a respectable 520g (26 x 2.1) which means they aren’t super light but the upside is they are mega durable and stable at high speeds."
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guys,
do you know a european source for a 15mm axle? I've recently got my rigid fork bought from ebay and realized the one I'm using in susp fork is not matching. The rigid has not thread in it and accepts flat headed axle not tapered as my syntace.
I know I could by it from the seller who sent the fork but that takes a month to arrive at least... :(
Thanks!
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Coming into this late, so you might have made your decision, but re: XT vs SLX, my Rumblefish came with all SLX back in 2011, and I figured, no worries, I'll upgrade to XT as things go. Well, it's been a couple years, that bike's had all types of use, and I am now a massive fan of SLX. In fact, there are some ways that I personally prefer SLX to XT/XTR, having had the chance to ride both higher groups on other bikes. Now, obviously, that's not to say that if you went with XT you've done badly, I love the Shimano stuff. I'm just surprised _how_ good the new SLX is. I would say without reservation that new SLX is notably better than XTR from only a couple of years ago. Seriously.
Re: the Flows, those things are freakin' bomber. Depending on your weight, they're probably far more than you need. I once hit a 3" raised concrete lip at about 20mph hard enough to double-pinch flat a Kenda Small Block 8 (not the thinnest sidewall, either) and the rim showed _nothing_ after the fact. Just happened to catch it, you can just see the edge on the little bridge at the beginning of the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aLEoq9xsX-U
I've been running an Arch wheelset as well for a couple years, and even those have been bombproof, and the Arch EX should be even moreso. I'm 210-220lbs just for reference. Even the Crests are surprisingly strong, but if you're in my weight class, they might not be _quite_ enough. Although it's not cheap, I think a Stan's ZTR/Hope Pro wheelset is close to the perfect MTB wheelset. No experience with the Chiner carbon rim wheels, at least not yet.
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To add about wheels, esp. Crests - they are/or were weight limited