Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29er => Topic started by: jwilds1 on November 01, 2014, 10:11:09 AM
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Well, parts are rolling in, so I figured I'd start this because I am going to have a *TON* of questions. Build list:
- IP-057 frame, Matte, BSA bottom bracket, 17.5" from XMIPlay
- Neco headset, seatpost, chain stay protector from XMIPlay
- Shimano 2x10 XT Drivetrain, XT brakes from Ribble
- IP-M23C wheels on red Novatec hubs with red spoke nipples, from XMIPlay
- red RaceFace Turbine riser bar
- RockShox 30 Gold 120mm travel
- Kenda Small Block 8
I am new to bike-building, but am pretty mechanically inclined, so I don't envision too many problems, especially with your help and a few riding buddies at work.
So, as I await the frame (should get back in stock in China in the next week), I started putting the wheels together. Went to LBS to pick up some Stan's valve stems and sealant. After watching some of the videos on the Stan's web site, I went ahead and mounted the tires (no rim strips yet) and couldn't get the beads to seat for the life of me. Second attempt was after running Gorilla tape sticky side down, and was much better, but without sealant they wouldn't hold air for more than 15s. Most of the leakage was around the bead, at least according to the soapy water. So my questions:
1) Is that an okay method of DIY rim strips or is there a better method?
2) Am I good to go ahead and throw the Stans in the tire and inflate?
Gotta admit, they look pretty good:
(http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-sc-F8IJ2B_A/VFTzzoweUiI/AAAAAAAAKYU/67DurNyp0Wo/s800/20141101_105217.jpg)
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I am sure you are aware of what I am about to say, although I question some of your reasoning. Perhaps I'm not getting the whole story.
1) On your first attempt, of course the bead would not set without rim strips or rim tape. Spoke holes can't seal themselves. There are only a few wheels in the marketplace that don't have spoke holes drilled into the rim, so a rim strip or rim tape is a necessary item.
2) Your wheels are not UST, this means you will need a liquid sealant such as Stan's or Orange Sealant (my personal preference) to seal the bead, possibly around the stems, and anywhere the rim tape didn't do the job.
3) Gorilla Tape is a common alternative to Stan's rim tape, if you have the correct width of tape for your rim width, you should have good luck using Gorilla tape. If the tape is too wide, it will interfere with the seal between the tire and the rim.
4) Yes, add your tire sealant, shake the wheel like is shown in the Stan's video and get your tire to seal well. A good seal will not lose air for a week or so, however, this depends on the tire as well. Thicker rubber will not lose air as quickly.
Good luck finishing your build, I'm glad someone is still choosing the IP-057 as it seems everyone is liking the IP-256 lately.
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The rim tape is vital as CD pointed out.
From my experience, every tire seems different, even the same models, some pop immediately while other take you a while to get on.
But in all cases, putting soapy water seems to make the tire pop much faster.
Once the tire is seated, don't move it out for the sealant.
I was doing this before and sometimes had to restart the soapy thing again.
Just remove the end of the valve.
And with a 60ml seringue, and a plastic tube, pour the sealant through the valve.
Put the valve back, inflate and shake/rotate.
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Also, I will temporarliy inflate the tire to 45psi or so to ensure the bead snaps firmly into place, then let some are out later and set the tire to say 30psi or so.
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Thanks, everyone. I was able to trim a little of the gorilla tape and re-seat the beads. I bought two of the small Stan's bottles and dumped one in each after removing the cores. We shall see how well it seals up. Seems like I was only able to get to about 20 psi before it started bubbling out.
And I apologize in advance for a lot of what may be dumb questions. Never put a bike together myself and everything I've owned have been Craigslist specials.
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The sealant bubbling out is exactly what it's supposed to do. That is needed are the sealant to do the holes. Just keep shaking the wheel around until you find no more leaks. Soapy water like you've been using is great to check this seal.
Also, whatever sealant you end up with, don't make a habit of buying those small bottles as it's far more costly than the big bottles and you will need to refill the wheels frequently for best results (I average every 3 to 4 months).
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Also, whatever sealant you end up with, don't make a habit of buying those small bottles as it's far more costly than the big bottles and you will need to refill the wheels frequently for best results (I average every 3 to 4 months).
^ this, totally, although hang onto the small bottles, they're the right size for one "dose" of sealant and perfect for injecting the sealant after pulling the valve as you've already found. I refill mine from the big bottle.
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Well, they're finally holding air. With tires (Kenda Small Block 8s, 2.1" width) and sealant, front weighs in at 1550g and the rear at 1960g.
Now, if only Peter will get back to me on the frame. Today is day 25 of the 20-25 day back in stock window...
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Have you ever ridden Small Block 8s on the front wheel? I would be very cautious your first few rides... They are a good, fast rolling rear tire, but tend to slide out easily, especially in the front. I would personally never recommend on for a front tire.
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Have you ever ridden Small Block 8s on the front wheel? I would be very cautious your first few rides... They are a good, fast rolling rear tire, but tend to slide out easily, especially in the front. I would personally never recommend on for a front tire.
Depends on the terrain. If the tire is fresh and you're riding hardpack, SB8s front and rear is fast and fun. Might not have all types of ultimate traction, but I had a blast on that combo. The Slant Six makes a nice front tire if you want a bit more traction. The Nevegals have huge traction, but I felt that they were way too slow rolling.
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Most everywhere I ride around here (Southeast MI) is hard-pack and fast. There are a few exceptions - Island Lake is very sandy - but for the most part I feel like these should be good. Anything's better than the Vee Rubber Mission's I have on my fatbike (horrible).
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Hey John, where in SE Michigan are you? I'm in Oakland Township (Rochester).
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I'm downriver (Grosse Ile), but I have to head north to ride anywhere with more than a few feet of elevation change. Worked this weekend at Hines Park with a few of the MMBA guys on the new trails they're putting there.
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Another SE michigan person here..
Rochester..
I liked SB8 at first but after a few hundred miles they just seemed to loose too much traction for me.
I am a huge RARA fan
I might try out a bontrager xr2 next.. main cuz of the size they can do 2.35..
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I rode SB8s for a year and a half out here in AZ. They were OK on decent clean hard pack. No issues there. But in the slightest sandy or dusty trail they would slide a great deal. And in mud, forget about it; they would pack with mud instantly and become a slick.
I did like them as a rear, but stuck with the Nevegal in the front. I'll be curious to hear your thoughts on them in your terrain.
I also like the RaRas, but the cost and the rate at which they wear has me a bit concerned. I'll probably look elsewhere when it comes time to replace.
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I also like the RaRas, but the cost and the rate at which they wear has me a bit concerned. I'll probably look elsewhere when it comes time to replace.
Agreed on that as well. I've run RaRas before, and they're fast, but I actually found them to be slicker than SB8's in front use. That, and how quickly my wife would kill her Rocket Rons was concerning. Oh, and the budget "performance" line Rons were downright f*king terrifying on wet roots and rocks. The EVO's were better but then they'd wear out quick.
Right now we're on Continentals. The RaceSports are *light* but the sidewall is like paper, so most of our tires are the ProTection models, which has the same Black Chili tread compound as the RaceSports, and are much easier to set up tubeless. I run a Mountain King front with an X-King in the back, and she's got X-Kings front and rear.
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I did like them as a rear, but stuck with the Nevegal in the front. I'll be curious to hear your thoughts on them in your terrain.
I also like the RaRas, but the cost and the rate at which they wear has me a bit concerned. I'll probably look elsewhere when it comes time to replace.
yea a little sand.. mostly soft to hard pack dirt very few rocks..
when i got my RARAs last year i road them for like a month then decided to break my knee.. just started back riding and yea they are not wearing as well as i wish they would..
Points to the people who can guess the trail (SE michigan)
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Stony creek?
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I wouldn't know... I lives in Flint my entire time in Michigan and only rode my free ride bike around the downtown area. I miss Michigan. I don't miss Flint or the winters.
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Pontiac lake...
I dont like riding stoney for some reason.. i live a few miles from it.
If i want a quick ride i cruise up and down Macomb orchard trail.
Vipassana.. yea i grew up just north of flint in Clio..
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I've never ridden a Mtb yet, but all my friends go to Stony, Addison Oaks, or bald mountain. My subdivision borders on Bald Mt South, so with that, the paint creek, and Addison, I should be all set. Looking forward to this!
Any of you guys doing Iceman?
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Today's update: zilch. Nada. Bupkis.
Frame still hasn't been fabbed. Was told 20-25 days from October 13th to coming back in stock. Getting frustrated >:(
In good news, though, I added another 1/2 bottle of Stan's to each wheel and they've now held air going on 4 days. I'm pretty sure I shorted the amount I put into each tire because when I reached the end of each bottle there was a pretty good slug of latex in the nozzle of each bottle. An extra 1/2 bottle (about 1 oz) seemed to do the trick.
Ordered a bike stand to help make things easier once the d**n frame gets here.
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Today's update: zilch. Nada. Bupkis.
Frame still hasn't been fabbed. Was told 20-25 days from October 13th to coming back in stock. Getting frustrated >:(
Ouch, damn. Sorry to hear that. You're at least getting updates that there is no update? For my first attempt at a road frame it was three weeks during which there was no communication and then when I contacted them I was told that what I wanted was out of stock and they started asking me questions. Uh - why weren't you asking me those questions earlier?
I echo the sentiments that whomever figures out to pair these frames with good communication, good websites, and good information - will clean up.
In good news, though, I added another 1/2 bottle of Stan's to each wheel and they've now held air going on 4 days. I'm pretty sure I shorted the amount I put into each tire because when I reached the end of each bottle there was a pretty good slug of latex in the nozzle of each bottle. An extra 1/2 bottle (about 1 oz) seemed to do the trick.
Don't worry too much about tires not holding air for too long before you ride it. Some tires just won't seal up right until the bike is ridden. Older Continentals were notoriously bad (for me at least) at this. Could barely get them to hold air overnight, until I got out on the trail and rode them. That's what really agitates the sealant and lets it finally seal up the little pinholes and such.
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Ouch, damn. Sorry to hear that. You're at least getting updates that there is no update? For my first attempt at a road frame it was three weeks during which there was no communication and then when I contacted them I was told that what I wanted was out of stock and they started asking me questions. Uh - why weren't you asking me those questions earlier?
I echo the sentiments that whomever figures out to pair these frames with good communication, good websites, and good information - will clean up.
I can't say zero communications, but it's definitely lacking. I received the wheels 18 days after I placed the order. I sent Peter a note indicating I got the wheels, and asked what the status was of the frame. I got no response. Waited a few days, and sent another request, got a same-day response indicating that the frame still wasn't fabbed up.
I'm not mad, just a little bummed out. I was thinking/hoping I could get it finished before it started getting cold/messy outside here, but temps in the next week are dropping into the 30's (Fahrenheit), along with rain/snow so I'm thinking the season is over.
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The season is never over!
I'm sorry that you're getting frustrated. I'm not quite at that point, just anxious. My frame (256-SL) was shipped out 8 days ago, and the tracking info hasn't been updated since, so I'm not quite sure where it's at. Hopefully I'll see it any day now. Sounds like that is pretty common with shipping through EMS/USPS though. That's not iPlay's fault though, but I wish there was better communication between the shippers.
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Moral dilemma -
Sent Peter a request for an update. My 057 still hasn't been made. Asked if there was an IP-256 he could substitute. He said there was, and I'd have to pay almost the full cost difference between the two.
Starting to get really frustrated... What would you do? I haven't looked too much at the 256...
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Well, it's been a few weeks, and nothing but good news. First, my frame was finally shipped last Friday!!!!
Second, all the waiting gave me time to fix up the basement and build a little bike workshop - (http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-hCvx_u0mI1s/VHutrh8bHiI/AAAAAAAAKZE/3aXE-0rlG-Q/w1538-h865-no/20141130_175031.jpg)
Ignore home plate :) This used to be a baseball batting cage. Only thing missing is something to hold the bikes and I had a epiphany on it so it's back to the hardware store for stuff...
CAN'T WAIT!!!!
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Well, it's been a few weeks, and nothing but good news. First, my frame was finally shipped last Friday!!!!
Second, all the waiting gave me time to fix up the basement and build a little bike workshop - (http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-hCvx_u0mI1s/VHutrh8bHiI/AAAAAAAAKZE/3aXE-0rlG-Q/w1538-h865-no/20141130_175031.jpg)
Ignore home plate :) This used to be a baseball batting cage. Only thing missing is something to hold the bikes and I had a epiphany on it so it's back to the hardware store for stuff...
CAN'T WAIT!!!!
Nice workspace! What's the fat bike? Due to availability and us getting into the winter I might shelf my Chiner hardtail project for now, but am looking at fat bikes.
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It's a Bikesdirect.com fattie - Motobecane Fantom Pro. It's okay, something cheap to make winter a little more interesting. If I didn't drop every spare penny I had into my Chiner build, I would have purchased some new tires for it - the Vee Rubber Missions SUCK.
BTW, bike is already in New York. Peter must have put it on a plane...
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Question about Customs - when my wheels were shipped, they flew through New York, and don't even think they stopped at Customs:
My frame has now been there for 2.5 days with no movement.
Is this typical??
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Mine never said Inbound Into Customs. Mine looked just like your wheels did. Maybe give it another day or so and then give USPS a call? They might be able to give you more detailed information. Or, you can always start an investigation and they will assign you a case number and have someone call you.
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I wouldn't worry much Peter has always delivered but it takes time to get from China.
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Still in Customs. >:( Contacted the Post Office, and they said it's out of their hands. Not really looking forward to harassing CBP, so I plan on giving it a few more days.
So frustrating...
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How are those Nova tech hubs performing? Im not really an offroad rider, I will mainly be riding on road and hard surfaces with my MTB, and could you give a recommendation on tires also? Thanks and goodluck with receiving your parts.
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First, I can only say that the reviews on the Novatech hubs have been pretty good. If you search around here, there's some more info. I seem to remember someone finding a way to replace bearings as well. I can't speak first-hand, obviously...
Second - SCORE!!!!
(http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tzHljm2YNw4/VIcC2DJqatI/AAAAAAAAKbU/yoxz4QJmFj0/w400/Capture.PNG)
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(http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EF5EHcTjWgc/VIhWvSTphEI/AAAAAAAAKcc/ddSsPc5mmZE/w800/20141209_165915.jpg)
(http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-yuA4Ov6MHEI/VIhWvTy9GMI/AAAAAAAAKcY/5TlzXqtg7MI/w800/20141209_165908.jpg)
Finally, FINALLY arrived yesterday. Got held at Customs for a week, and I ended up owing $25 in duties (sounds like a swag number, if you ask me, but whatever). 1333g with nothing on it for a 17.5" IP-057 with BSA. Box was in pretty good shape, packaging was nice and robust.
Now the fun begins!!! I'm going to be asking a TON of questions, most likely needing a lot of help with the brakes and trying to route pre-bled XT assemblies through the internals. Also, like foamman's build, is there a sequence these things should be put together - ie, fork, then front brakes, then rear der, then???? I don't really want to install something then have to uninstall because it's in the way or makes things harder...
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Progress...
Started fork & headset installation. No issues with upper, ran into issues with the lower. Very similar to what others experienced here. A couple of swipes with 320-grit sandpaper around the inside of the lower, and the bearing popped right in.
Went to install crown race on the fork... Checked garage for right-size PVC - no joy. Found hole saw of appropriate size, but not the washer that seats it to the bit, so I'm going to have to stop by Home Depot tomorrow.
At least I got it....
(http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MdgDVqlyDEg/VIjwjMizYHI/AAAAAAAAKdM/EliqUpIPZFM/w800/14%2B-%2B1)
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Looks like you are on your way. Good luck with your build.
My general build order was:
1) Headset & Fork
2) Bottom bracket & crank
3) Brakes
4) Deraileur & shifter
5) wheels & tires & cassette
6) Seat & post
7) Chain & pedals
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I'm glad you finally got your frame! I know it was probably really frustrating waiting for it to show up.
For the crown race, I covered a flat head screw driver with a bunch of layers of duct tape and used it with a hammer as a tamp to get it to fit.
Another tip, for internal cable routing... pick up one of those telescoping magnetic things that you use to pick up bolts from engine bays. I used that to grab the end of my cable as i was routing it through my frame, worked out really well.
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I actually made a tool to seat the crown race..
just some PVC pipe will work just fine..
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Anyone have issues installing the bottom bracket? I have one spacer on the drive side and none on the other, which I think is right. My issue is tryino to thread the adapter into the bracket. Very rough, and I worry about cross threading.
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My IP-057, both BB bearings threaded in smoothly. On my IP-036, I had one side thread smoothly, the other was rougher so I used a metal pick to clean out the threads which helped a good deal.
As for the spacers, measure the width of your BB, you should either need none or both, depending on if the width is 68mm (2 spacers), or 73mm (no spacers). My IP-057 did not need spacers, but my IP-036 needed both, one on each side.
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The Shimano instructions call for one spacer on the drive side, but when I put it together like that on my IP-057 the chainline was horrible. It worked better with no spacers, but I still get noisy engagement on the big chainring in front if I have it in the largest or second largest gear in the back. Some pics of the chainline halfway down the first page here http://chinertown.com/index.php?topic=139.0
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The Shimano instructions call for one spacer on the drive side, but when I put it together like that on my IP-057 the chainline was horrible. It worked better with no spacers, but I still get noisy engagement on the big chainring in front if I have it in the largest or second largest gear in the back.
Same here on my IP256SL. Don't use spacers, still the same noise like you descripted.
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(http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HJHgD_67cl0/VIr92cHGOXI/AAAAAAAAKdw/k3MV9EDwvz4/w800/20141211_204032.jpg)
Progress made last night - got the race installed on the fork and was able to install the fork, bars, front brake, and started to route the rear derailleur cable. I was really worried about installing the star nut, but lo and behold I didn't have to (told you I'm a novice!). The video posted in the other thread about installing the Neco headset was great. Fork is probably about 1.5"-2" longer than it needs to be, but much like a haircut, it's easier to take more off than put it back.
Rear shift cable housing is still really long, as I initially thought it was routed on the left side of the headset, so I have to shorten that up. I'm using the Jagwire housings from the kit I bought but the Shimano cables that came with the shifters. Do you foresee any problems with that?
I'm going to hold off on the bottom bracket until a) I can clean out those threads, and b) I can borrow a wrench (BBT9) from a guy I work with next week. Will first set it up with no spacers.
So, I think I'm going to tackle routing the front derailleur, and possibly the rear brake.
WARNING - STUPID QUESTIONS AHEAD!!!
1) Once the shift cables are routed internally, I need to remove the white tubes that came from the factory, right?
2) How on earth do I go about routing the rear brake without having to re-bleed?
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Arrrgh... attempted the rear brake today. People reading this, learn from my mistakes if you want to try and do it without bleeding:
1 - when removing the hose at the lever, remember lefty-loosy, righty-tighty.
2 - you can pull the cable routing tube that came with the frame. I sat there puzzled on how it would route without any sort of guide, or pulling the hose through. I used the tube to route some extra shifter cable I had, and tried to use the cable as a snake, but the hose + cable + tape wouldn't fit through the opening. I gave up and just pushed the hose through, and wouldn't you know it, it came out the opening!
3 - because of #1, I ended up totally crushing the olive nut around the nipple. No amout of screwing around with it or cursing at it would get it to budge.
Was able to finalize the shifter cable routing for both the rear and front, and at least installed the rear caliper. Right now, I still have it sitting downstairs with a cut rear brake hose. I'm hoping that no air will get in there for the next few days, because I won't be able to hit the LBS for that long. Hose is still way higher than the caliper. Hoping i don't need to bleed and can just get by with a new insert
(http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-EN9dcM5oRkA/VIuVz54sggI/AAAAAAAAKeM/X4zUJf3yNeA/s800-Ut/14%2B-%2B1)
(http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-28pWDv_UCFg/VIuVzycq3eI/AAAAAAAAKeY/yPtTyXjIcmQ/s800-Ut/14%2B-%2B2)
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Don't worry about the brake line too much, I have gone through a few olives and barbs. Even if you do get a bit of air in the line, bleeding isn't that difficult but you will need a basic Shimano bleed kit. You might as well get one now anyway, unless you plan on just taking it to the shop and having them do it. If you do brake work yourself, it's not a bad idea to have a few spare olives and barbs in your tool kit.
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The olives and barbs are technically meant to be one time use if installed properly. The olive deforms upon proper torquing.
I'm not sure what the aversion is to bleeding brakes on this site! It's so damn easy and the kits don't cost that much, especially if you puck up a generic one on eBay. Though the slack lever kit is really affordable in its own right.
I observed a marked improvement with only a lever bleed on the 3 sets of Shimano XTs I installed. And it took maybe 10 minutes per lever. Is it required? Probably not, but the results are better with one. The Shimano brakes seem to tolerate a little air far better than any Avids I've worked with.
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Such frustration this weekend. I didn't have a chance to work on it Saturday, and Sunday I went for a ride on the fatbike and helped build some trails. On my way home (about 1 hour away), I searched out 8 bike stores to try and find the right olive & barb insert. 2 stores were closed, and the remaining 6 didn't have what I needed...
So... Today I hope to find the right part (not-so-local LBS shows having stock when I check online, going to call later), borrowing a bottom bracket wrench from a guy at work, and going to top off the Stan's and re-inflate - tires are flat again.
Really wish I could have finished it last week to ride yesterday, but oh well.
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Did you try Fraser? They always seem to be a cut above the rest...
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Fraser? Are they up by you? I haven't heard of them. I was riding the new trails in Hines Park (I-275 and Hines Drive), and I was working my way south using Google Maps to find bike stores on my way home.
Tree Fort Bikes (in Ypsilanti) said they had some on their web site but I'm glad I called because they didn't have any in-store. I just called Trail's Edge in Plymouth and they have what I'm looking for...
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I dont care for fraser.. they seem to elitist for me..
I like performance in bloomfield, klm off of rochester road.. main street in utica..
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Fraser is in Fraser, MI (which is just east of Warren/Sterling Heights). I think 15 mile and Utica. They are opening a new store in Canton soon.
outriding-
I like KLM too, but the Rochester one is small and usually doesn't carry a ton of stuff. I'm sorry to hear that you feel Fraser is elitist. I've never felt that way, they've always been really great to me. Then again, I'm coming from a road / triathlon background, and those athletes have a stereotype of being elitist too (haha). I usually do all my own maintenance, but I had a warranty fix that needed to be done on my Cervelo, and I wouldn't take it to anyone but them to have the work done.
Another pretty good one is Paint Creek in Lake Orion. Again, a smaller shop but they really seem to know their stuff there and carry a good amount of stuff.
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Ahhhh, progress is good. Bottom bracket, crank installed. Derailleurs hooked up. Was finally able to cobble together the barb and olive nut and hooked up the rear brake and it seems pretty solid, but I have a bleed kit and extra olive nuts on the way.
Buuuut, rear tire won't hold air. Leaking through the spokes, so that means my Stan's is probably under the Gorilla tape. Going to have to pop the tire off, clean it all off and try again. Not looking forward to that mess.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-a0f86U1Cl20/VI9-px6eDKI/AAAAAAAAKe4/aDpsR8b4f88/s800-Ut/14%2B-%2B1)
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98% complete. Two issues holding me back:
1) screw tubeless. I pulled off the rear tire, cleaned up the Stan's, pulled off the gorilla tape, cleaned off the gorilla tape glue from the gorilla tape, reapplied gorilla tape, remount ed tire, filled (with Slime this time vs. Stan's ), and it's still not holding air. Leaking around the bead. I only did it for weight savings (no major thorns or anything around here I need the sealing for), so I'm just going to throw some tubes in and call it a day.
2) front derailleur adjustment. Shifts fine going from big to little ring, but jams up going from little to big. Any words of advice before I look at it?
Getting there!
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1) After adding sealant, mounting the tire, and filling the tire with air, are you shaking the wheel up and down in a horizontal position? Have you watched the Stan's Notubes video on how to get the tire to seal? When I first went tubeless, I was also a bit frustrated. Once you learned how to apply the tape, make sure the valve stem sealed properly, and shook the sealant around to seal the bead, I've not had any problems since getting a tubeless setup to hold air. Make sure you also have at least 2 oz of sealant, don't skimp on sealant if you are having trouble.
2) I run a 1x11 setup so I have no advice on the front derailleur adjustment other than checking out some Youtube videos on the best way to adjust.
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Yup, AFAIK, I did everything right. Did the shake, rattle, and roll, little over two ounces. Not sure if any of the Stan's dried up around the bead and that's what's causing the leaking.
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I had an equally hard getting the tubeless set up. I found gorilla tape to be so much easier to work with than the stan's tape, that really helped. Did you locate the source of the leaks? Is it around the whole rim, or just in a small spot? If it's the whole rim I'm guessing the bead isn't seated perfectly. I'm guessing you did the soapy water / compressor / removable valve core deal? I had a hard time getting my beads to seat until I did that, then they popped right in place. After that, I had a small pinhole leak on the side of my tire that was leaking air overnight. I finally did the "hold the tire horizontal" thing, and you could hear the air leak turn off, it was pretty cool.
So, I understand where you are coming from, it's a pain in the butt to start, but you will get it eventually.
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Took over a hour to tubeless my first maxis aspens. Which aren't tubeless ready. But ever since then I have taken them off tons and put back on. For some reason its instant now.
I feel that air compressor power means a lot on hard to seat tires. Fat bike tubeless experience says this. But with these small tires its the first burst.
I also let the air blow through the holes spitting glue for 30 sec and then stop and repeat. Maybe it does nothing but eventually it seats.
Just so you know it can be done and I never had a flat all year.
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Oh, I'm sure it can be done, but I'm wondering if it's just not my bag... I had it going for a little while myself, and if it wasn't for the Stan's getting under the Gorilla tape, I think it would have been fine.
I tried to get as much of the dried on Stan's around the bead area off before re-mounting, but that may be an issue now as well. All of the leakage is around the bead area. I am using a compressor and Stan's removable core "bolt-in" stems. Beads seated w/o sealant no problem.
I seem to remember my first go-round I kept having to inflate multiple times before it finally held, so all may not be lost (yet). Still going to pick up some tubes on the way home from work today, though.
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I've done two sets, and both needed a while to finally seal. The first pair was with tubeless ready rims and tires- one held air fine even with no sealant, while the other only took a couple of days before it held well. The second set was with iPlay hookless rims and tubeless ready tires- those took at least a week to hold pressure overnight, and one wheel had a slow leak for even longer, but they eventually formed a good seal and have worked well. No flats at all, but I did have to pump up the front a bit on the first ride after I skidded it through a corner and burped it.
What pressure are you getting them up to? A higher pressure may help to get everything seated, and flatten out any wrinkles.
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Merry early Christmas to me!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-fWZj-1iO-1w/VJIa0IRTrSI/AAAAAAAAKfk/Hul7eIirT8w/s800-Ut/14%2B-%2B1)
Not only did I find out I got a promotion at work today, I was able to kinda finish it up. 23 pounds by my bathroom scale. It's still stuck at 1x10 because of the front derailleur, and I bit the bullet and threw a tube in the rear. Not extremely pleased with how the red accents worked out - the hubs and bar match okay, but the cables are BRIGHT red, and the pedals are almost magenta, but this is a rider not a wall-mounted queen. Will probably need a longer stem but that can wait a little.
Straw poll - how many of you added the carbon grip stuff to the seatpost? I've cranked on the clamp as much as I feel comfortable doing and it's still slipping a little
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Looks good jwilds1, I like the Christmas tree behind in the shot.
I have yet to see someone beat my 19.5 lb IP-057 1x11 build :), but then again everyone seems to be building IP-256 frames these days.
As for the carbon paste, I didn't use any at first then I spoke with two local bike shop master techs, they both highly recommended carbon paste on the seatpost and on my carbon bars. Even though nothing was slipping, the paste also keeps the dreaded creaks away. Just make sure you use a good brand like Finish Line or one of the other popular brands.
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I used it on mine. Relatively cheap add-on when you're ordering a bunch of components. Hopefully you can pick it up locally.
Forgot to add- awesome Christmas present!
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Looks great dude! And congrats on your promotion. That means you can buy more bike stuff!!
I use Carbon paste on my road bike, but it has an aero seatpost and have been known to slip. With the carbon paste (Tacx), it hasn't.
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My previous bike i could not for the life of me get the seat to stay (it was an alu frame)..
I picked up a Thomson seat clamp and torqued it to spec and bam it works. I move the seatpost and seat clamp to my 057 and it works with no issues.
I was going to put carbon paste on mine but i went to RBS (downtown Rochester) and the peeps there never heard of it..
<facepalm>
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I did a carbon fork and XT and my bike ended up being 21.6 lbs so yours with a fork is right on target..
Carbon Dude.. no one likes a show off ;D (but if my bike was sub 20 i would be talking it up)
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I have to give credit to the very light DT Swiss wheel set and XX1 setup for that sub 20lb light weight measurement.
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My wheels are pretty sweet.. carbon rims, dt swiss revo spokes, alloy nipples, hubs are decent (mtb270/mtb180) ..
I put 180mm rotors on mine..
And your xx1..
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I wasn't going after major weight loss here - if I had been it would have been a 1x setup and a carbon bar, and I would have been more dilligent on the quest for tubeless. I wasn't keeping track of every gram here and there... I'll just say it's muuuuuuuch better than my 36 pound fatbike :)
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(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-VjIwnZPISho/VL1bwuqEBlI/AAAAAAAAKjQ/a85aaastx30/s800-Ut/15%2B-%2B1)
Was finally able to make it out on the Chiner this morning. About 34 degrees out, and we had a big thaw over the eek end but everything was frozen pretty well. I just cruised around my local spots - we have a lot of hiking and multi-use trails.
The good - everything worked really well. Brakes seemed to have a lot of lever travel before engaging but they clamped hard once engaged. Sizing was good, and I'm having third thoughts about my stem length. No burps from the one (yeah, one) tire I have tubeless and that was at about 10 psi.
The bad - this @$!# carbon seat post will not stay clamped!! Even with carbon grip, and with me cranking as much as I'd like to, it turned into a dropper about a third of the way on my trip. I felt like a 13 year old on a BMX bike with my knees hitting my chest. I also had one instance where the chain dropped to the inside - I was able to catch it in time before it caused any damage. It's weird too, because I was on the big ring at the time.
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Looking good, man.. love the black and red.
Just be patient, you'll get all the little kinks worked out. It's odd that you can't get you post to stay put even with carbon paste and tightening it down all the way.. This may seem like a captain obvious moment but have double/triple checked to see if you have the right size post diameter for your frame?
As for the chain drop.. I'm no pro at drive trains so I'll let someone else chime in there.
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Great shot in the snow!
Wow, only 10 psi? Was that front or rear? I'm still a noob at tubeless, but I'd be worried about bottoming out and damaging the rim.
Any guesses on what caused the chain drop? Were you pedaling, did you hit a bump, etc.?
Edit- meaning, did anything happen that may have contributed to it jumping off?
I also have the XT 2X10 and it's been great. I think it actually shifts smoother in the front than in the rear when I'm going up a steep climb and have to downshift- it just drops right on to the little ring, very smooth.
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Really awesome bike!
About the seat post: use hair spray to make your seat post a little bit thicker. I had the same problem and this with carbon paste solved it for me and it hold now for months.
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About the chain drop: isn't your chain to long? When the chain is on the smallest cog and on the biggest chainring, the two dérailleur wheels should stay above each other, they should make a vertical line. And are you using a rd with a short cage? I'm using a long cage and no problem. Not even chain slapping the frame.
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Chain length - will try and get some pics of the driveline tomorrow (too much stuff going on tonight). I do remember that when I was in little/little I had to do a lot of adjustment on the "B" adjustment on the rear derailleur. Now that I think about it, I remember having a PITA getting the pin back in the chain after removing the links - maybe the pin isn't fully in. Will have to check it out...
Seat post - instead of hair spray, could I build up the finish coat with some matte Polyurethane clear coat? have some of that left over from a woodworking job.
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Little/little ? Shame on you ;D You never ride you bike little/little. You use the granny only for climbing. And in little/little you're not climbing :D
I don't think the matte clear coat is a problem ...
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Did you get a shadow + rear derailuer?
if you did, did you try to move the clutch lever to on?
I think that is suppose to help with not having the chain dropping.
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Yes, I have a shadow+ rd. But I don't lock it, because sometimes I want to shift 3 gears in ones. When the shadow+ is locked, I couldn't do that. But last month I changed from 2x10 to 1x10. But I had never a chain drop or even a chain slap with 2x10.
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Yes, I have a shadow+ rd. But I don't lock it, because sometimes I want to shift 3 gears in ones. When the shadow+ is locked, I couldn't do that. But last month I changed from 2x10 to 1x10. But I had never a chain drop or even a chain slap with 2x10.
No reason beyond a stiffer shifter that you shouldn't be able to do a multi-gear jump with the Shadow + in the "on" positiion. My wife's bike has a XT Shadow+ and multi-gear shifts are no problem. Definitely a firmer shift lever feel than my bike with the non-shadow RD, for sure.
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First, I'll answer questions. My reference to little/little was when the bike was in the stand and I was getting everything adjusted. I don't have Shadow+, so no lever to adjust.
Took a look at the driveline and found the culprit:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-yM2Qq5o_WHU/VMBQkuvpT0I/AAAAAAAAKkA/3DfsDWP3nTc/s800-Ut/20150121_194754.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-z0ztLQ9oNLM/VMBQkoO8eyI/AAAAAAAAKkA/lB-OcsyydDg/s800-Ut/20150121_194509.jpg)
Yup, that'll do it. Pin was falling out. Off to the LBS for a new pin, but I have a question:
I was reading my Zinn book and it referenced that Shimano chains have an outside and inside, with the logo going on the outside. True? Mine was on backwards.
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Yes, a Shimano chain have a inside and a outside. The outside contains characters on it. So, on the picture, the chain isn't correct installed.
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I use a sram link instead of using those pins
Works great and have 1k miles on with no issues
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I use a sram link instead of using those pins
Works great and have 1k miles on with no issues
I agree, either the SRAM power link or KMC missing link both work well if you do not already have a master link in your chain. I would also highly recommend you also carry a spare one of those when trail riding, a spare link is a lifesaver when you break a chain 10 miles out from the parking lot.
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Thanks a lot. I thought about using a Missing Link, but wasn't sure it would work (novice here). I'll grab one (or a few) of those on my way home.
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I have never used the KMC one.. They say it is reusable but the SRAM says noooo.. (i have reused a SRAM with no issues)..
I like the link option... i like to clean the chain off the bike.
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Problem #1 solved:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MOlRwMA8xYg/VMGSBksnrfI/AAAAAAAAKk4/9v4B8bgWoJM/s800-Ut/15%2B-%2B2)
Problem #2 is the seat post. It is now drying with its second coat of clear poly. Going to do that and the carbon grip. And now for another stupid question - clamp positioning shown below is correct, no?
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-qdwTHBpoeIA/VMGSBsxBjWI/AAAAAAAAKks/k3lsXltVxFk/s800-Ut/15%2B-%2B1)
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I would say yes, that is correct. The opening of the clamp is opposite the large vertical notch in the seat tube. It may not matter that much but that is the way I have both of mine.
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I would say yes, that is correct. The opening of the clamp is opposite the large vertical notch in the seat tube. It may not matter that much but that is the way I have both of mine.
Agreed - most everything I've seen about using seat clamps with carbon posts says to put the clamp opening opposite the slot in the seat tube. Here you've got two but as CD pointed out, you've got it opposite the larger one.
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First REAL ride update:
Went on the annual "Worst Day of the Year" ride in Ann Arbor MI this weekend. Forecast initially started out as 35 degrees F and sunny, but as the date grew closer, started falling. Morning started out at 27 degrees, and by the time we went off at 1:00 was 23 degrees with a 15mph wind. Lots of compliments on the bike from friends, including a guy I work with who kills the hills on a 196x Schwinn with 2-speed kick transmission.
Zero issues with the drivetrain this time around, and zero issues with the seatpost, and amounted to a very good ride (all roads, except for a small section that was frozen - Small Block 8's were surprisingly good, almost acting like studded tires).
One thing that I thought of, with regards to the seatpost, was torque falloff. I did the poly-spray Thursday night, carbon grip and reassembled Friday. When I tightened the clamp post down, I got it pretty d**n tight. On Sunday, before loading it up, I did one last check and it felt looser than how I'd left it. Tightened it up again and rode with no issues. Wondering if it may be the clamp or the fastener or both. Will check it out tonight, and try and figure out if I can get a torque wrench on it.
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Torque on a carbon seat post should be around 5N-m. I have a Bontrager torq Key that's preset for 5N-m, works nice and easy to carry on a ride if your are not sure your clamp is staying tight. I've never seen a clamp loosen over time, maybe it's your coating getting squeezed down a bit :).
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Just ordered a six pack of KMC missing links off Amazon. I'll be thanking you guys when I'm not walking out of the woods :)
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Just ordered a six pack of KMC missing links off Amazon. I'll be thanking you guys when I'm not walking out of the woods :)
One on the chain, and one in the bag, just in case. I managed to help a lady get riding again with one of my spares - she had broken her chain out on Gooseberry Mesa in Utah and was not close to the parking lot. Got rid of the broken outer plates, popped in the KMC quick link, boom, done.
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Now have two road rides and 45 miles total on the bike. Only issue that's popped up is a creaking from the headset. I took it apart this evening and didn't find anything amiss - everything was tight. I applied liberal amounts of grease to both the lower bearing and upper - I have the Neco headset and put the grease between the upper copper colored ring and the upper bearing. Anything else I should be looking at? I do have multiple stacks of spacers - 4 below the stem and 3 above, each 0.25".
Another minor nit is that I need to get a longer stem. I bought a short one (70mm?) And probably need a 100mm.
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Now have two road rides and 45 miles total on the bike. Only issue that's popped up is a creaking from the headset. I took it apart this evening and didn't find anything amiss - everything was tight. I applied liberal amounts of grease to both the lower bearing and upper - I have the Neco headset and put the grease between the upper copper colored ring and the upper bearing. Anything else I should be looking at? I do have multiple stacks of spacers - 4 below the stem and 3 above, each 0.25".
Another minor nit is that I need to get a longer stem. I bought a short one (70mm?) And probably need a 100mm.
Sometimes it's difficult to know exactly where a creaking noise is coming from. If you have carbon bars, try putting some carbon friendly lubricant like Finish Line Fiber Grip or similar between the bars and the stem. If your bars are aluminum then just some grease. Ensure the stem is torqued correctly. Also check your seat post as well.
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Definitely not the seat post (don't jinx it! I fought that a while). Aluminum bars. Hoping the grease will help. Will report back later this week.
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Just ordered a six pack of KMC missing links off Amazon. I'll be thanking you guys when I'm not walking out of the woods :)
I guess I can predict the future? :)
On my last ride (easy paved trail) the chain kept jumping around in the rear- ghost shifting, popping on and off the cogs. I adjusted the derailer but it turns out it was the chain- the Shimano connector pin had worked its way out, and going up a climb today the chain fell right off. I wasn't pedaling very hard when it happened, so nothing else was damaged and I didn't fall over. Gettting the other pin out was no trouble with the Crank Bros multi tool, and the KMC link was simple to put on. It takes a fair amount of force to pull it into place, but that is easy to generate by standing on the cranks to pull it tight.
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Those Crank Bros tools are nice. Mine's paid for itself a few times...
In other news, I changed out the front tire to a Slant Six (with a SB8 on the rear), and was finally, FINALLY able to get both wheels tubeless!!!! Took them both apart, cleaned off the old Stans & Gorilla Tape residue, re-taped with some different tape (forget the brand and I'm at work - I think it's a 3M product), new stems, Orange seal instead of Stan's and they've held now for a little over a week...
Planning for the first ride "in anger" this coming weekend.
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So, my first official ride was this weekend, and it wasn't without incident >:(
Some racer buddies of mine put on a skills clinic at a local trail. Skinnies, log piles, jumps. Considering I have very little skills, I went out to practice.
First up were the log piles, going both up and down hill. Zero issues with that, and the bike behaved flawlessly. Next up were the skinnies, which I've always had a problem with. With some tips, I was able to clear all of them start to finish.
Next were the drops/jumps. I've always had difficulty - not sure if I tense up or what, but they've always given me issues. The first setup was only a 6" drop, and I was landing flat every single time. After 5-6 of those, I moved onto the 12" ramp. First time, great. Second time, not so great... Front tire first...
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-hzxn7lLEOHw/VTUATxtKq9I/AAAAAAAAKro/vHTvELQ6CcM/w843-h474-no/15%2B-%2B1)
I did push on though, and when we went out onto the trails I conquered a lot of stuff that I would have skipped - either it was the newfound skills or the extra motivation of a group ride...
Let's just say that I've got another tab open with Amazon looking at shin guards.
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Enough about the loose nut behind the wheel, on to the BIKE!
After the crash, the #$%^^&**( seat post came loose again. I am cranking on it so hard that it's just a matter of time before it breaks. I'm looking to you all for guidance. I have the IP-057, the IP-SP5 seat post from XMIplay, and this clamp - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NSFOBMM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NSFOBMM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
If that's the incorrect clamp, I'll eat my hat.
Good news / Bad news on the headset. Good news is the creaking is gone now, after liberal application of grease. Bad news is I've developed a wobble. When I took it apart to grease, I did the final cut and put some different spacers in. It's possible I didn't put it back together correctly or something came loose. TBH, after the crash
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For the seatpost, do you have a set of calipers to measure the ID of the frame and the OD of the post? You should start with knowing what gap you have.
First remedy is applying some carbon paste, like Finish Line Fiber Grip. The grit in the paste helps with gripping the seatpost.
Second remedy, and it has been discussed in this forum, if you have more gap then clean the seatpost and apply additional clearcoat to the post to add thickness.
For the clamp, you could try a wider clamp like a Thomson seat post collar: http://bikethomson.com/seatpost-collars/ (http://bikethomson.com/seatpost-collars/)
Double check the assembly and the preload you have on your headset. If it all looks good then, measure the bearings (OD) and the cups (ID) and check your gap, we can go from there.
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+1 on the Thomson seat clamp..
I have one one my 057 and it works great. Note I got the 34.9 size.
Note the torque on the bolt.. It is not as much torque as you would think to apply.. (2.8nm)
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Carbon Grip? Been there. Clear Poly? Done that.
Am I too fat? Entirely possible. Getting awfully frustrating.
I'll take the calipers home from work and check everything tomorrow.
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Carbon Grip? Been there. Clear Poly? Done that.
Do it again. I used hair spray to make the seatpost a little bit thicker. Three layers was enough. And now, after 8 month, still no problems. I'm using the same seatclamp as you. First cleanup your seatpost and frame, than the extra clearcoat/hairspray, than carbon paste. And please, don't tighten the seatclamp to much, have respect for the nm (max 4nm).
Am I too fat? Entirely possible. Getting awfully frustrating.
No, you aren't!
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4 nanometers? How are you measuring that? :)
Sorry, geek 'humor'. I also get twitchy when people use 'ID' for the inside width on rims.
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newton meters..
or 25 in-ft..
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4 nanometers? How are you measuring that? :)
Sorry, geek 'humor'. I also get twitchy when people use 'ID' for the inside width on rims.
It could be "inner dimension", but I know what you mean. :)
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We have a measurement scope here at work that can measure into the micrometer range, not quite nanometer. You'd almost need a scanning electron microscope (SEM) for that, which we have used quite often at Georgia Tech.
Our scope is made by Keyance: http://www.keyence.com/products/microscope/digital-microscope/vhx-5000/index.jsp
Among other things, we use it to measure the thickness of gold plating on electrical contacts.
Sorry for the off topic post.
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I see a fellow scientist here :D I've used both SEM and TEM, getting down to atomic scale eventually. It will not be needed in the bike industry anytime soon though, I believe.
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Well you got your top tube, down tube, nanotube, etc.
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Measured today. Seat tube is 31.6 dead on, measured in 3 places. Seat post ranged from 30.8 to 31.2, average of 30.9. Problem?
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I didn't measure my frame, sorry too much trouble to take the seat post out tonight. However I did measure each of my seat posts:
XMIplay post (3k Gloss finish): 31.5mm
Easton EC90 post (UD Matte Finish): 31.6mm
Based on my two measurements, your post seems to be on the small side. When I slide either of my seat posts into my seat tube, they don't drop in, I have to work them back and forth to get them to slide up or down.
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Problem, these are 2 different official sizes. One is 31.6 and another 30.9. You'll have to find a 31.6 seatpost.
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Dammit... That's what I thought. So this is the second time Peter hosed me - I didn't say anything about the first time when he missed the chainstay protector.
Off to amazon...
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I wouldn't say that he hosed you, since building a frame from the ground up would typically be something you would undertake after having a pretty well rounded understanding of different bike standards. Not trying to bust your chops, I just don't think it would be quite fair to blame it on the seller though since you did not buy the post from him to go with the frame (making an assumption on that one). Just a lesson to learn for your next build!
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No, I got hosed. Both were ordered from him.
Order was IP-057 and IP-SP5 seatpost. 057 is a 31.6mm frame, SP5 is a 31.6mm post.
There is no identification on the post indicating part number or diameter. They grabbed the wrong post and threw it in the box, and forgot to throw in the chainstay protector.
When I told him they missed the protector he asked for more shipping. I said forget about it.
I'm not complaining, just annoyed. Cost of doing business, I guess...
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well then I certainly agree with you, sorry for jumping the gun there.
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When I ordered my IP-057 I made the point of asking Peter to test fit the seat post into the frame, to ensure the two fit snugly. I can't be sure they did the test fit but I did receive parts that fit well together. Assuming they sent you the wrong post to start with and forgot something else, maybe talk to Bert and see if they can send you both for a nominal shipping charge.
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Having worked with companies in China before and then working with Peter, I have learned you really have to be very very specific with what you want. When I placed my order I made sure to tell them EXACTLY what I wanted including specifications for the seat post etc. Then I made them put it in an invoice as well. I think a lot of people feel like companies in China are really trying to screw them over but their culture is just so different. Combine that with the language issues and things can really get screwed up fast.
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Having worked with companies in China before and then working with Peter, I have learned you really have to be very very specific with what you want. When I placed my order I made sure to tell them EXACTLY what I wanted including specifications for the seat post etc. Then I made them put it in an invoice as well. I think a lot of people feel like companies in China are really trying to screw them over but their culture is just so different. Combine that with the language issues and things can really get screwed up fast.
nevertheless it could go wrong.
They send me the wrong wheelset. I asked for red hubs and red nipples, but they sent me black. Got it all in my email. But it was an hassle to get it right.
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Like I said, I've just attributed it to the cost of doing business. So its an extra $40 to buy another post. It's still way cheaper than anything else I could have bought.
Rant over. New seat post is on its way, and I'm digging into the headset tomorrow.
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Hi John, so sorry about this. Could you send me some pictures to me ? petercycles@foxmail.com
THis is the second SP5 seat post that is not standard size 31.6mm, or close to 31.6mm. I know you bought this one from me when I was at Iplay, that is OK. I can send you replacement and chainstay protector from my own new company Carbon Speed.
I hope you could send me some pictures and I will pass them to our factory, I have to require them to check out the diameter carefully before giving seat posts to me.
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Hi John, so sorry about this. Could you send me some pictures to me ? petercycles@foxmail.com
THis is the second SP5 seat post that is not standard size 31.6mm, or close to 31.6mm. I know you bought this one from me when I was at Iplay, that is OK. I can send you replacement and chainstay protector from my own new company Carbon Speed.
I hope you could send me some pictures and I will pass them to our factory, I have to require them to check out the diameter carefully before giving seat posts to me.
Nice. Way to step up and take care of the customer, Peter.
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Thank you for the offer, Peter. I do appreciate it. I have already purchased those components and they are arriving within the next few days.
I will followup with the pictures you want on the seat post.
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That is very good customer service from Peter.
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Peter, I sent you the picture. Keep in mind as you start up your company that there are now at least 5 or 6 companies doing what you intend to do, all with very similar pricing. The only major way you can stand out from the rest is by good customer service. Considering that you've left XMIplay, your offer is above and beyond what you needed to do. Remember though, the best way to react to mistakes is to prevent them from happening in the first place. If I were to take you up on your offer, it would have been a least a week to two to get here - I was able to go on Amazon and order the right seat post and have it at my door in two days for only a small amount more than if I were to purchase from you.
Anyhow, I fixed the headset issue by taking another 1/4" off the steer tube. The cap was bottoming out before providing any clamp force.
Drivetrain is funky. I am running XT 2x10, without Shadow+. When in big/big, if I were to backpedal, the rear derailleur shifts and the chain jumps down the sprocket to the smaller gears. I have tried adjusting things as best I can but look to you for guidance. There is a third screw on the rear derailleur near the travel stops that appears to adjust some sort of spring tension? Should I play with that?
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I'll bet your derailleur hanger is out of alignment. Have you tried aligning it with the proper tool?
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Keep in mind as you start up your company that there are now at least 5 or 6 companies doing what you intend to do, all with very similar pricing. The only major way you can stand out from the rest is by good customer service.
Customer service and some good marketing and advertising. Personally, I think it would be extremely easy to stand out in this market.
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First frustration-free rides of the year this weekend, after installing the right-size seatpost.
After work on Friday, I hit some new-to-me trails about 5 minutes from work. Fiddled with the seat positioning a little bit. The trails (Dearborn, MI - right along Hines Drive) are relatively flat, twisty, but every-so-often you have a short, wicked climb of about 30 feet when you come up from right next to a river up to the upper banks (hard to describe). Couldn't do most of those climbs. Because this was my first time there, I got lost a few times into some areas with standing water, but at the end I did two laps of about 8 miles a piece.
Sunday was gorgeous - low 70's, sunny, and I had already gotten the yard work done on Saturday so I went out to some trails I helped build at Hines Drive in Plymouth. There are two sections - Lakeview & Riverbends. Lakeview is just that - up and down the shores of Newburgh Lake. There are some flowy sections, but it's still fairly technical (at least to my novice skills). The good news here is that I'm making climbs I wasn't able to do in the fall - 50% bike, 50% the engine.
Riverbends is more flat, and shorter, but faster. Because this goes right down to the shore of a river, it tends to dry out really slowly. When combined, the two sections are about 3-4 miles, so that was 7 or 8 miles down & back. Was still feeling it, so I went to another trail that is notorious for drying out slowly, and that was the case Sunday. Had to hop on the gravel two-track after only a mile or two - shoulda stayed at Lakeview/Riverbends. By that time though, I had developed a small issue and my a** was sore so I headed home.
The issues I've got now:
1) bottom bracket has developed a creak, only under power. I'm used to this with my old SS CX bike with a press-in bottom bracket, so this is new to me. I think I'm going to spend this week looking into the drivetrain issues (creak, and my rear derailleur issue pointed out prior). I'm also wondering if my spacer use is correct on the BB. I *think* I have zero on the non-drive side and 1 on the drive-side (XT 2x10).
2) I can't seem to get this seat to be comfy. I've been playing around with the position (fore/aft, angle), and I'm almost out of angle adjustment (tilted nose-down). I'm going to throw on an old seat I have to see if that fixes it - didn't have any comfort issues, but it's a boat anchor.
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1) bottom bracket has developed a creak, only under power. I'm used to this with my old SS CX bike with a press-in bottom bracket, so this is new to me. I think I'm going to spend this week looking into the drivetrain issues (creak, and my rear derailleur issue pointed out prior). I'm also wondering if my spacer use is correct on the BB. I *think* I have zero on the non-drive side and 1 on the drive-side (XT 2x10).
This weekend I had also a creak, which I thought it came from my BB. After replacing the BB with another one, still the same creak. Finally I found the creak, it was some friction between the rear axle and the drop-out. I cleaned both parts and now it's quiet again.
So, don't only focus on your BB.
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I'm spent. 35 miles this weekend. I installed my clip-in pedals and just went for a ride around town to get used to them. By the time I got back I was wondering why I didn't do this before. To those of you who are on the fence, DO IT. So much more efficient.
This morning I went on a group ride and the area in my prior post. New-old seat is so much more comfy (now to see if I can find an exact match online or I'm going to have to swap seats across 3 bikes). Started getting the creak again at the end of that ride (10 miles). Also had no rear brake for the entire ride cuz I messed it up bleeding it the other day.
With a wonky rear brake and a mystery creak, I said what the he** and drove up to Maybury, about 15 minutes from spot #1 . Checked out the creak - rear axle was TOTALLY loose. One problem down, one left (no rear brake). Made it through both spots, 28 miles total, and only fell twice - no fault of the clipless, I was trying to manage downhills with only a front brake which isn't fun.
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Wow, bump of a really old topic - haven't been able to access from work for a while (some IT-type stuff about "Categorization")...
After what amounts to almost a full season on my 057, I have to say I am very pleased with the bike. I've fallen considerably, with a few of them being "bike flying in the air" crashes, and it's handled everything very well. Things I would have done different:
1) Gone with a 1x setup. I've been doing a lot of research on next spring's project (read further below), and it is now definitely within my level of comprehension. Remember, I had never so much as adjusted a derailleur or brakes before this build, so I was a little apprehensive when it came to sourcing parts. Going with a full drivetrain/brakes groupset from Ribble was the easiest way for me to ensure I got everything I needed and that it all worked together.
2) Gone 27.5". I'm a rank novice when it comes to the trails, and our trails around here make up for their lack of elevation change with tight turns and some technical stuff. Coming from a 26er, the jump to a 29er (at least for me) was drastic in terms of bike handling in the twisties.
So. What's next?
My son (age 11) and I have a long weekend trip to Brown County next weekend. I just finished tuning up his bike (Trek MT220) for the trip, and I have some tires to throw on mine (Rons/Ralphs) and do a last-minute tune-up/shake-down ride. We did the same trip last year, and he wants to start tackling some of the more difficult stuff while there.
Also, I'm finalizing plans to put together a bike for him in the late-winter/early-spring. Peter sent me the geometry of his 14.5" frame, and the reach is remarkably long (560mm ETT), so I'm looking into eBay frames. His current bike has a 21" ETT, so I don't want to go much bigger than that. His bike will also probably have a better drivetrain than mine, as I spec'd out a RaceFace Cinch 1x crank with the XT 11-speed rear (11-42). Also, I'm planning on going BB7 for his bike.
I realize it's a ton of money to spend on a bike that he'll only be in for a few years, but without going into details, he's had a rough year or two and he's an amazing kid. Biking is our chance to bond, and I'm going to have him do most of the build on the bike so he can put in some sweat equity.
Pics from Brown County to follow...