Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29er => Topic started by: Cnasta on February 20, 2015, 02:45:03 AM
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Finished the Bike, editted my opening, edits in bold :)
Ordered a
IP-256SL frame last week of december 2014. I knew it would take around 30 days to ship. After I received the trace-code of Peter, it only took 7 days until delivery! My total order was around 1090 dollar (all parts, paintjob, shipping, paypal). Customs set me back another € 111,00.
In this thread I'll post some pictures and will ask questions about my building problems (will be my very first complete build, until now I only did some minor chain/fork/crank-work).
If anybody has any questions regarding my build, ask and I'll try to answer (I have no digital scale, so weight-questions are hard to answer) :)
I got a lot of inspiration for my build from MTBr and Chinertown. Thanks for all the help until now! Especially: Carbon_Dude, MTB2223 and Vipassana.
First questions: Updates in bold
- Since I don't have a scale, how much will be the weight of the complete bike (in Kilogram) :) I recon about 9kg with 1550gr wheels and single-ring setup. Might even be a bit less?
Still need to weigh, guess about 8.5kg
- I don't have any liners in the frame for my cables. Just keep on pushing/trying until I hit the exit?
Yes, was easy
- Carbonpaste on seapost, steerertube/forktube and no paste on handlebar?
Only used it at seatpost (to be sure, had no problems)
- Grease: white, normal, on all screws and bearing grease on headset.
Used normal "white" grease. The stuff you use for all bike-stuff
[/list]
The parts I ordered from XMIplay (Peter, thanks for the speedy replies):
IP-256SL frame, 17,5", thru axle, BSA, UD matte/glossy paintjob
FK-052 Fork 29'er 15mm, UD matte/glossy paintjob
Front and Rear thru axle
MTB handlebar IP-B04, 700mm, UD matte
Seatpost IP-SP7, 400mm, 31,6, UD matte
2x Bottle Cage IP-BC2, UD matte --> They don't hold my botles, will change them with the Tacx cages of my roadbike
IP-ST1 stem, 90mm, UD matte
Headset NECO
Extra dropout
Seatpostclamp
Chainstayprotector --> which sucks, no use at all
The parts I got in the Netherlands (partly 2nd hand, but new. Partly discounted goods from (dutch) webshops):
Shimano XT, FC-M785, crankset
Shimano XT, BB
Shimano XT, RD-M786 achter derailler, 10 speed, gs --> used a OneUp Components Rad Cage and a Goat Link
Formula C1 breakeset, black/silver, incl. 160/180 discs --> love the simple clean look, brakes quite good. Might change to XT when I have problems in the future. More budget now than a year ago. The Formula's set me back only 125 Euro (incl. discs), new.
Pedal: Xpedo M-Force 4ti (230gr, nice!)
Shifter: XTR SL-M980, 10sp --> best ever
Absolute Black Oval 32t Chainring --> love it, just not for tarmac trail-connecting roads. But MTB is hardly ever used on tarmac, so no problem. Perfect for Dutch Trails
Absolute Black 40t rear-cog range extender --> needed for the hilly courses
ESI Racers Edge grips --> the skinny ones, chunky to big for me
Continental Xking tires, 29x2.2, tubeless setup --> only need a floorpump, easy setup!
Still to buy: all bought
Sadle, will use old one --> still using it, won't change. A Ritchey WC thing I think
Wheels: will be a handmade wheelset with Ryde Trace rims, Novoctec hubs, weigth will be around 1550gr. All black with gold spoke nipples --> Hand build by Eleven Wheelwork (Nijmegen, ask for details). Perfect build, quite affordable, better than any I ever tried.
Pictures (crappy phonepictures, more will follow):
(http://ep1.pinkbike.org/p4pb11908062/p4pb11908062.jpg)
(http://ep1.pinkbike.org/p4pb11908063/p4pb11908063.jpg)
(http://ep1.pinkbike.org/p4pb11908065/p4pb11908065.jpg)
The bike will be black matte, with partly glossy black paint. The build will have some minor golden details (pedal, spoke nipples, chainring-screws, derailler screws and maybe the seatpostclamp --> still in doubt about the Clamp, think I keep it black).
New photo's
(http://ep1.pinkbike.org/p5pb12962926/p5pb12962926.jpg)
(http://ep1.pinkbike.org/p5pb12962925/p5pb12962925.jpg)
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First questions:
- Since I don't have a scale, how much will be the weight of the complete bike (in Kilogram) :) I recon abount 9kg with 1550gr wheels and single-ring setup. Might even be a bit less?
- I don't have any liners in the frame for my cables. Just keep on pushing/trying until I hit the exit?
- Carbonpaste on seapost, steerertube/forktube and no paste on handlebar?
- Grease: white, normal, on all screws and bearing grease on headset.
Hi Youri,
1]
I've got almost the same setup as you. I've got a 680mm handlebar, RockShox Reba RL fork and standard SPD (m520) pedals.
I started my setup with a 2x10 drivetrain (XT) and the weight was about 9,5 kg.
Now I'm riding the bike with 1x10 (as we discussed in our PM's) with a Absolute Black 34t chainring (I wanted the oval one, but it wasn't on stock by the LBS Mantel). And still using the standard 11-36 XT cassette. The weight now will probably around the 9,2 kg.
To be honest, the weights are WITHOUT pedals and other accessories (like my Garmin).
I think you setup will be 1 kg lighter, about 8,2 kg ?
2]
I had liners in my frame. It makes it a lot easier.
I running my RD cable full hoses. I had to drill the cable holes at the front and back. At that point, I hadn't a liner for this cable anymore. I used some iron wire (the iron wire (with some thin plastic on it) you're using in the garden to fasten plants to the fence or whatever). I put in the iron wire, which was my liner from that point. And then it's easy again.
The only tricky part is the rear brake cable if you don't have a liner. Try and be patient :) Start at the back and pull it forwards.Don't install your fork yet.
3]
Carbonpaste every where two elements are connected to each other and carbon is involved. So, carbonpaste at your seatpost and handlebar. Connection between stem and fork is aluminium on aluminium. No use of carbon paste needed.
4]
White grease (montagepasta) on all your screws. For some screws it's better to use locktide.
Bearinggrease on your headset and BB.
I've got the same bottle cages as you and these two sucks! When going down on a bumpy trail, I always lost my water bottles. Most of the time I'm riding with a camelback, so it's not a big issue for me.
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Another tip: I fasten my seatclamp with 5nm and used carbon paste. Even then my seat post dropped into my frame. The seatpost was a fraction to thin. So, I used three layers of hairspray on the seatpost and now the seatpost won't drop into my frame again. And is holding now for about 6 months.
I also used hairspray for installing my handlebar grips. When the hairspray is wet, the grips are easily to install. And when the hairspray dried, the grips are fasten very well :) They won't turn around.
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Thanks for the reply! Will keep the hairspray in mind :) I used some soap to get my grips on the handlebar. Using ESI racing edge grips, small hands so Chunky's were not necessary (saved 10gr, yeah! ;) ).
The steerer/fork-tube to stem is a carbon-connection in my build (rigid xmi fork has carbon tube, stem is carbon as well).
Hope the bottlecages don't suck big-time. Otherwise I can change them with my roadbike (tacx carbon bottlecages, working perfectly). Riding with camelbag ofter as wel, but on shorter rides (<50km) I use a botle of water and a botle with tools (co2 pump, inner tire, allen-key).
Setting up tubeless with conti x-kings by the way.
Good to hear that sub 9kg should be easy. Might ad a reba fork later this year for the heavier rides in Belgium.
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I almost use the same grips, but the cheap ones out of china (32 gr/pair).
(http://s25.postimg.org/x02qyih4v/IMG_5546.jpg)
Didn't know the forktube and stem are full carbon. Do you know the weights of you handlebar, seatpost, stem etc ?
For the record, I'm using the heavy Racing Ralph Performance versions (tubeless). I could save some weight if I use the evo versions (save 100gr/each). But I like this heavy version. No flat tires so far :)
(http://s25.postimg.org/4gm7iz39b/image.jpg)
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According to Vipassanas build:
seatpost: 180gr
fork: 720gr
handlebar: 125gr
stem: 143gr
ESI racers edge: 50gr
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Wow! I never knew about the hairspray trick. My grips drive me crazy by moving around. Going to try hairspray tonight. Thanks!
Looking forward to following your build, Cnasta. You mentioned waiting on the frame to be painted, I'm having a hard time seeing it from the pics, but it looks like you have a two tone black paint scheme going on?
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Wow! I never knew about the hairspray trick. My grips drive me crazy by moving around. Going to try hairspray tonight. Thanks!
Looking forward to following your build, Cnasta. You mentioned waiting on the frame to be painted, I'm having a hard time seeing it from the pics, but it looks like you have a two tone black paint scheme going on?
Had to wait because BSA-frame are hot, not really because of the paintjob. It's hard to see on the crappy pictures, but I have one. It's too close, so the frame looks dirty (greasy hands) :)
(http://ep1.pinkbike.org/p4pb11908069/p4pb11908069.jpg)
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Wow! I never knew about the hairspray trick. My grips drive me crazy by moving around. Going to try hairspray tonight. Thanks!
Looking forward to following your build, Cnasta. You mentioned waiting on the frame to be painted, I'm having a hard time seeing it from the pics, but it looks like you have a two tone black paint scheme going on?
I thought everyone knew the hairspray trick for grips, just something I learned when riding BMX bikes 35 years ago. I wonder how much other knowledge is lost from generation to generation because it doesn't get passed down, probably less now that we have the internet :).
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I thought everyone knew the hairspray trick for grips, just something I learned when riding BMX bikes 35 years ago. I wonder how much other knowledge is lost from generation to generation because it doesn't get passed down, probably less now that we have the internet :).
While I've used the hairspray trick, I find it can make getting the grips back off more difficult. What I've taken to doing, and works flawlessly with the ESI grips, is using window cleaner like Windex to install the grips. I give the top of the bar a quick spray, and it'll get down to the bottom, and then I put the end of the grip over the sprayer and give a quick shot, turn it around and do the same thing. If the grips are used, I can then get them on with no problems at all. If they're brand new, I might have to put a little more on the bar, and maybe wipe it around to make sure the whole surface is wet. Might also need to put on a glove to get a better grip for getting it on the bar. Once it's on the bar in the right place, I'll leave it overnight. Have never had an issue with grips slipping after that.
Now when it comes to taking them off, I've got a wooden chopstick and a small syringe. I put water in the syringe, get the chopstick between the grip and bar, and shoot in some water. I've used screwdrivers or sharpened spokes in the past, but you run the risk of scratching the bar, or poking through the grip, so the chopstick works great. Could be anything wooden that's not too big around. The syringe just makes getting the water into the gap between the bar and grip, and isn't necessary. I've used a water bottle or even drops of water from a wet hand. If the grips are old, that's usually enough, but if they're still new and fitting tightly, I've found that working the chopstick around the bar after getting the water in there helps. (I've used soap and water as well and that'll work better, but don't find it to be necessary, so usually don't bother.) Once the water has gotten between the grip and the bar, I can usually pull the grip right off without any problem.
This technique works so well, I've stopped running bolt-on grips. I used to use those because I make frequent changes to the bike, (can never leave well enough alone!) and there's little that's easier to remove and reinstall than bolt-on grips. However, with this water/windex technique, I've switched to ESI grips.
If you're running conventional rubber grips, this might not work *as* well. My fat bike came with standard grips well over a day after applying the grips with Windex, they were still a tiny little bit wet. My guess is because the solid rubber doesn't breathe like the silicone foam grips, but don't really know because I almost never run that type of grip anymore. This *does* work very well with the super-lightweight foam grips like MTB2223 showed, but those tend to not fit as tight so hair spray might work best with those.
Finally, back to the original topic - Cnasta, that build looks like it is going to be sweet!
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Another good technique for removing grips that were put on with hairspray or some other product is to use an air compressor and an attachment with a pointed tip, which is common and come with many compressors. All you do is lift up one inside edge of the grip, blow in the air and the grip will come right off (just remember to cover the other end of the bar so the air doesn't blow out the other side.
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Another good technique for removing grips that were put on with hairspray or some other product is to use an air compressor and an attachment with a pointed tip, which is common and come with many compressors. All you do is lift up one inside edge of the grip, blow in the air and the grip will come right off (just remember to cover the other end of the bar so the air doesn't blow out the other side.
And with this trick together, try to blow some water under the grips with the air, to liquefy the hairspray and to reduce the resistance.
This weekend I removed my 2-dollar foam grips by using a knife (didn't want to save them) to put on some ergo grips. Made my bike 154 gram heavier :(
Cnasta, sorry to messing up your topic :)
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Another good technique for removing grips that were put on with hairspray or some other product is to use an air compressor and an attachment with a pointed tip, which is common and come with many compressors. All you do is lift up one inside edge of the grip, blow in the air and the grip will come right off (just remember to cover the other end of the bar so the air doesn't blow out the other side.
And with this trick together, try to blow some water under the grips with the air, to liquefy the hairspray and to reduce the resistance.
This weekend I removed my 2-dollar foam grips by using a knife (didn't want to save them) to put on some ergo grips. Made my bike 154 gram heavier :(
Cnasta, sorry to messing up your topic :)
Haha, no problem. My bad, should have been working on my bike and posting pictures instead of drinking beer :)
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Next question :)
Today I took the crank and BB out, as well as the fork and headset. I knew they had to be removed when installing the rearbrake and shiftercable, my next step.
Is this the correct order:
Feed inner shiftercable from top to bottom
Connect shifter on handlebar
Assemble derailleur
Put outher cable on (right lenght)
Connect cable to shifter
Connect cable to derailleur
Feed brakeline, from bottom to top
Bleed, when needed
Assemble caliper a
Assemble brakelever
If not, what order would you use?
Both cables enter on the left-side of the frame. Top hole for brakeline/hose and bottom hole for shifter, right?
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About the shiftercable:
- first make the correct length of the housing (you call it outer cable) for the part between frame and shifter (don't make it to short)
- install end cap on the housing/cable
- Connect cable to the shifter
- Put the cable in the housing
- put the cable then in your frame
- when it comes out the frame, install last part of the housing (don't forget the two end caps)
- install shifter to the handlebar (you could do it some steps earlier)
- install the derailleur
- connect cable to the derailleur.
Please consider running the shifter cable full housing through the frame. I did. I drilled out the cable stops in the frame (at the top and at the rear). I hope this won't happen to me: http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/chinese-carbon-29er-640919-post11778869.html#post11778869
About the brakeline:
... no comments ...
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,375.0.html
Yes, both on the left. The cables will make a nice curve.
And take a look to these instruction video's, especially this one: "How to Adjust Shimano Rear Derailleurs"
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Thnx for the reply. Thought about running housing through the frame, but not quite ready to start drilling my frame :) Think I'll try without first, if problems occur, I'll be running full lenght later.
Guess this would be the time to insert the noise-cancelling foam as well?
The order is clear to me now, however the lenght of the housing is a bit difficult to guess (the handlebar is not on the bike). Offcourse I can do an educated guess. And too long is better than too short, but still. Is there anybody with a 17,5" frame and a 700mm handlebar that can measure the lenght of the housing? The backside is no problem, the derailleur is allready on, and the lenght can be more or less the same as on my previous bike.
I never build up an entire bike, but did do maintenance. Ajusting the derailleur should not be a problem (allthough it's a shitty job) :)
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Guess this would be the time to insert the noise-cancelling foam as well?
This is the last step. You can do it before installing the handlebar and fork, but reinstalling the handlebar and fork isn't that difficult.
The order is clear to me now, however the lenght of the housing is a bit difficult to guess (the handlebar is not on the bike). Offcourse I can do an educated guess. And too long is better than too short, but still. Is there anybody with a 17,5" frame and a 700mm handlebar that can measure the lenght of the housing? The backside is no problem, the derailleur is allready on, and the lenght can be more or less the same as on my previous bike.
My housings are long enough it won't touch the frame when I pull the steer complete to the right or to the left.
So, turn your steer complete to the right (shifter installed, uncut housing attached to the shifter (somehow)), guide your housing to the insert point of the frame, keep 2 cm clear between the curved housing and the frame. And this is the length you need. That's it.
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Guess this would be the time to insert the noise-cancelling foam as well?
This is the last step. You can do it before installing the handlebar and fork, but reinstalling the handlebar and fork isn't that difficult.
The order is clear to me now, however the lenght of the housing is a bit difficult to guess (the handlebar is not on the bike). Offcourse I can do an educated guess. And too long is better than too short, but still. Is there anybody with a 17,5" frame and a 700mm handlebar that can measure the lenght of the housing? The backside is no problem, the derailleur is allready on, and the lenght can be more or less the same as on my previous bike.
My housings are long enough it won't touch the frame when I pull the steer complete to the right or to the left.
So, turn your steer complete to the right (shifter installed, uncut housing attached to the shifter (somehow)), guide your housing to the insert point of the frame, keep 2 cm clear between the curved housing and the frame. And this is the length you need. That's it.
Thnx, got the lenght figured out more or less (at least, on the front). Confused with the parts I should use when installing the housing.
I've got an XTR shifter and it came with 1 cable (which I cut in two parts), 2 end caps, some other stuff (guess for frames using external routing).
I think this should be the right way:
FRONT
housing goes into shifter without end cap [edit] wrong, it looks like I should use an end cap here [/edit]
housing goes into frame with end cap
BACK
Frame to cable, with end cap
Housing to derailler, whith end cap with tongue
Unprotected cable to last part of derailler, partly shielded
This makes 3 end caps, than why are the only 2 included with the XTR shifter??
Correct?
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Guess this would be the time to insert the noise-cancelling foam as well?
This is the last step. You can do it before installing the handlebar and fork, but reinstalling the handlebar and fork isn't that difficult.
The order is clear to me now, however the lenght of the housing is a bit difficult to guess (the handlebar is not on the bike). Offcourse I can do an educated guess. And too long is better than too short, but still. Is there anybody with a 17,5" frame and a 700mm handlebar that can measure the lenght of the housing? The backside is no problem, the derailleur is allready on, and the lenght can be more or less the same as on my previous bike.
My housings are long enough it won't touch the frame when I pull the steer complete to the right or to the left.
So, turn your steer complete to the right (shifter installed, uncut housing attached to the shifter (somehow)), guide your housing to the insert point of the frame, keep 2 cm clear between the curved housing and the frame. And this is the length you need. That's it.
Thnx, got the lenght figured out more or less (at least, on the front). Confused with the parts I should use when installing the housing.
I've got an XTR shifter and it came with 1 cable (which I cut in two parts), 2 end caps, some other stuff (guess for frames using external routing).
I think this should be the right way:
FRONT
housing goes into shifter without end cap [edit] wrong, it looks like I should use an end cap here [/edit]
housing goes into frame with end cap
BACK
Frame to cable, with end cap
Housing to derailler, whith end cap with tongue
Unprotected cable to last part of derailler, partly shielded
This makes 3 end caps, than why are the only 2 included with the XTR shifter??
Correct?
The number end caps you need is correct. I used a Jagwire kit but my XT shifter came with 2 end caps on the housing plus a few in the bag. When you say there are only 2 end caps are you counting the ones that ware already on the housing?
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Guess this would be the time to insert the noise-cancelling foam as well?
This is the last step. You can do it before installing the handlebar and fork, but reinstalling the handlebar and fork isn't that difficult.
The order is clear to me now, however the lenght of the housing is a bit difficult to guess (the handlebar is not on the bike). Offcourse I can do an educated guess. And too long is better than too short, but still. Is there anybody with a 17,5" frame and a 700mm handlebar that can measure the lenght of the housing? The backside is no problem, the derailleur is allready on, and the lenght can be more or less the same as on my previous bike.
My housings are long enough it won't touch the frame when I pull the steer complete to the right or to the left.
So, turn your steer complete to the right (shifter installed, uncut housing attached to the shifter (somehow)), guide your housing to the insert point of the frame, keep 2 cm clear between the curved housing and the frame. And this is the length you need. That's it.
Thnx, got the lenght figured out more or less (at least, on the front). Confused with the parts I should use when installing the housing.
I've got an XTR shifter and it came with 1 cable (which I cut in two parts), 2 end caps, some other stuff (guess for frames using external routing).
I think this should be the right way:
FRONT
housing goes into shifter without end cap [edit] wrong, it looks like I should use an end cap here [/edit]
housing goes into frame with end cap
BACK
Frame to cable, with end cap
Housing to derailler, whith end cap with tongue
Unprotected cable to last part of derailler, partly shielded
This makes 3 end caps, than why are the only 2 included with the XTR shifter??
Correct?
The number end caps you need is correct. I used a Jagwire kit but my XT shifter came with 2 end caps on the housing plus a few in the bag. When you say there are only 2 end caps are you counting the ones that ware already on the housing?
Mine only came with 2 on the housing. In the bag I only found the longer ones (with tongue) and some of those longer rubbery protection things (for external routing)...
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Too busy with other stuff, but made some small progress:
Installed brakeline of rear brake. Can't connect because I had to order the olive for my Formula C1 :( Couldn't re-use the old one.
Finished my rear wheel (or at least, the wheelbuilder did, and I helped). Installed AbsoluteBlack rear cog and discs. Now waiting for front wheel.
Got myself the missing end-cap for the shifter cablehousing, ready to cut to lenght now.
Problems:
Handlebar seems to thin for my brake-lever (completely closed, it can still move). Anybody any ideas?
Disc fits quit nice, but how do you correctly install the brake-caliper? Just try to center the disc?
Picture:
(http://ep1.pinkbike.org/p4pb12014120/p4pb12014120.jpg)
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Problems:
Handlebar seems to thin for my brake-lever (completely closed, it can still move). Anybody any ideas?
Use an old inner tube.
Disc fits quit nice, but how do you correctly install the brake-caliper? Just try to center the disc?
Loosen the screws of the brake-caliper, pull the brake-lever multiple times and then keep pulling, tighten the screws. Don't tighten the one full and then the other (like shown on youtube), but one by one a little till they both tightened. (you can only do this installation step when the brake is fully installed).
At 4:59 ( and at 6:52 a great tip ):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XAUTCZ3gIyU&t=299
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Thnx, thought of the inner-tube solution as well, think that is de way to go.
The caliper alignment sound logical, could have thought about that myself (but didn't :P ).
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You can already wrap some Gorilla Tape around your handlebar if you don't have an old tube.
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Problems:
Handlebar seems to thin for my brake-lever (completely closed, it can still move). Anybody any ideas?
One thing that comes to mind is teflon tape. When I rode dirt bikes I would always put a couple wraps of teflon tape around the bars where the clutch and brake attached. When I crashed the teflon tape would allow the levers to spin instead of breaking. Point being the teflon tape is cheap, easy to use, clean, and will take up some space.
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Thnx, fixed it with an old inner tube. Now I just have to wait for the olive to arrive so I can attach the brakecable to the lever.
After that, I think I have all part to finish the build.
What do you guys recon for the routing of the cables? Does the frontbrakecable go between the frame and the right shifter- and brakecable, or outside?
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What do you guys recon for the routing of the cables? Does the frontbrakecable go between the frame and the right shifter- and brakecable, or outside?
This is the routing of my cables. It's not an actual picture. I have removed the FD and the FD cable and FD shifter:
Routing the cables this way, it never touch the frame, even when I turn the steer completely to the right or the left.
(http://s25.postimg.org/6rlbugpfj/image.jpg)
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Thnx, my routing will be a bit closer to the frame (brakeline is quite short, and not happy to replace the whole line :) ). Will put some protective tape under. When upgrading brakes (if C1's really suck as much as I read no the internet), I'll buy some longer lines.
Main thing to see is that the front brakecable goes in between the frame and the cables coming from the right). I ride with a rigid fork, and the front brakecalbe is attached on the backside of the fork (yours is fixed in the front), so mine cable will go on the topoutside of the fork I recon.
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Hey,
It's been a while since I worked on the frame. Did roadracing during summer, and ran 2 marathons. Used my fully in the hills, now ready for the mud-season, so finishing my bike.
I have BIG problem I'm afraid. I have tru-axle drop-out. When I loosely insert my wheel (axle through the holes, not tightens) the wheel tuns both ways. When I tighten the axle, the wheel one turn one way (forward spinning, cassette is freewheeling). The other way, it makes noise and hardly turns. I looks like my cassette (10sp XT, 36T or 40T, both a problem) rubs the drop-out or something.
Anybody any clue??
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There's something wrong with your freehub.
If it rubs your frame, you can see that. But I think that's not the problem.
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It looks like the part of the hub is to small/thin. When I close/tighten the axle it comes too far inside the dropout. Hard to explain, but I hope this clearyfies it a bit. Don't think the frame is wrong, i might be the hub?
I used novatect 4-in-1 hubs
[edit]
No problem when I take the wheel out and spin it in the air (both ways are fine)
[/edit]
[edit2]
Looks like the axle is too short on the cassette-side. With axle I mean the part of the hub that sticks out from inside the body (in which you put the tru-axle)
[/edit2]
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Aren't you missing a washer?
I do not have Novatec's hub.
But on Hope's rear hub, there is a small cylinder that you insert in the cassette at the axle, that makes some distance between the cassette and the frame.
Did you check if the cassette is fully pressed on the freehub. Or if the free-hub is not fully pressed inside the hub?
Take some pictures.
May be Novatec's owners will be able to spot an anomaly if any.
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measure your rear hub and dropouts without the wheel first of all
like, using a spoke or something similar
the dropout inset might be too deep (the insets are supposed to be 3.5mm deep), or the right endcap might be too short
that'll allow you to find out which part (hub/frame) is at fault
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Thnx for the help guys, probleem was in the hub. The inner axle was wrong (or the shaft, not sure what de right name is). De thru-axle itself was ok, but not the innerwork of the hub. The wheelbuilder fixed it, and the bike is rolling now :) Will try to post some photo's soon.
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Hi, finally finished my bike. And finally did my first ride on it. For those from NL: Rondje Drunense Duinen.
Love the ride. Needed no time to adept! Off course, compared to my 26"fully, it's less comfortable. But faster on the straight for sure. Comfort overall didn't disappoint me, especially since it is still rigid (might try a SID in the future, blackblackblack, or DT Swiss)
Any questions, let me know! Thanks to MTB2223 for anwering mine :)
(http://ep1.pinkbike.org/p5pb12962926/p5pb12962926.jpg)
(http://ep1.pinkbike.org/p5pb12962925/p5pb12962925.jpg)
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Nice job Cnasta!
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Nice build and pics mate! You made quite the leap from 26 full squish to full rigid 29er.. Do you plan on riding both, or do you think you'll tend to favor one moreso than the other?
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Nice build and pics mate! You made quite the leap from 26 full squish to full rigid 29er.. Do you plan on riding both, or do you think you'll tend to favor one moreso than the other?
I do like to ride the Specialized Epic fully in rough terrain (Belgium Ardennes), but I don't like the costs that come with al the fancy things (rear damper, brain, pivotpoint-bearings). I'll keep the fully for the heavier rides, but think I'll be spending about 90% on this new rigid bike. Might try a RS SID or DT Swiss in the future, if I need more comfort :)
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Great looking bike! I always think it's strange to paint one black, but the gloss/matte effect looks really nice. If you need a little more comfort, it looks like you've got plenty of room for fatter tires :)
That area looks crazy- like the Sahara in the middle of the Netherlands. I found the Dutch wikipedia page, but couldn't find anything in English about it. How did the area form? Is the sand hard packed and easy to ride on?
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Great looking bike! I always think it's strange to paint one black, but the gloss/matte effect looks really nice. If you need a little more comfort, it looks like you've got plenty of room for fatter tires :)
That area looks crazy- like the Sahara in the middle of the Netherlands. I found the Dutch wikipedia page, but couldn't find anything in English about it. How did the area form? Is the sand hard packed and easy to ride on?
I guess (not sure) it's formed during the ice-ages (like al interesting area's in NL). The MTB Trail in the "Drunense Duinen" twists around the big sandy area's (with some sandy crossings). Most of the route is "normal" loose forest ground, with only a few vertical meters. But it's a beautifull area. On the photo you see a big "dune"-area in which you cannot really bike (well, with a fatbike you could).
The tires I have are 2.2 xking. Not really wide, but wide enough for 90% of what I do. Could go to racekings for really fast and dry conditions, or mountainkings for more grip. Think I won't changing to much, a midle-of-road tire suits me fine :)
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Got some very muddy miles on my Chiner now. I notice that the headset is sounding like it has a lot of dirt in/between it. Guess the Neco Headset is shit anyway, what should I buy to replace it with? Any good recommendations?
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I think the neco headset isn't worser or better than a fsa or ritchey headset. You need to do regular maintenance on the headset. It's important to prevent water in the headset by using enough grease. Just before the winter do some extra maintenance.
For now, you can clean the bearing in your headset, re-grease them and use them during the winter period. And replace them after the winter.
In the 1,5 year I'm riding with my Chiner and Neco headset, I replaced the bearing recently.
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My Neco headset has lasted over two years so far on my 057 hardtail and over a year so far on my 036 FS bike. I would not say NECO headsets are terrible, many people have posted they go through FSA headsets pretty quickly as well. I typically service them every 6 months or so.
If I were to replace the NECO, I would look at a Cane Creek replacement.
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Will give it look later this month, when I have time. But it's def sounding worse than my other headsets (26"fully, no service ever, still going strong after 3 years).
There is more that enough grease in there, but I will check it out :)
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When you do a service on the bearings, you can take out the sealing ring. Spray WD40 on the bearing balls, to remove the old grease, and then with an air compressor blow out all the WD40 and re-grease the bearing and put back the sealings. Now there're as new.
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I started with a Cane Creek 40 on my 256 frame.
The bottom bearing was so rusted it seized after a few (muddy) months.
I replaced the bottom bearing with the Neco that came with the frame.
Took it off when I changed to my new frame, and it is still running smooth.
I bought some cheap bearings from aliexpress, to replace when this one will die.
I see them(as well as bottom bracket bearings) as cheap and disposable bike parts now.
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Thnx, will need to check which cheap one I should order than :) Do you, by any chance, have a link to the seller you're buying from?
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When you search for "H373" on AliExpress, you find some cheap Neco headsets (complete).
The bearings are:
- NHB-6B (7H * OD41.8 * 45° * 45°)
- NHB-15 (8H * OD52 * 45° * 45°)
Don't know how to find only the bearings ...
Edit:
Use "ACB4052" to find some cheap NHB-15: 4 pieces for 17 euro ( http://www.aliexpress.com/item/4pcs-lot-ACB4052-40x52x7mm-45-45-degree-bicycle-headset-bearing/32501556182.html )
Edit 2:
Use "MH-P08F" / "TH-870" / "ACB845F" for a NHB-6B
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Here is the last one I ordered: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-1-2-tapered-headset-bearings-SMH-P16-40x52x7-SUS440-stainless-steel-material/32241211712.html
This time it is stainless steel. A bit more expensive but just to test if it lasts longer than steel ones.
42x52x7 45/45 degrees is all you need to look at. There are plenty of sellers like MTB2223's reference.
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The rear axle is coming loose every now and than. Really need to tighten the small screw (hex), which is annoying if you ever get a flat. Does anybody know a better solution/better axle?
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The rear axle is coming loose every now and than. Really need to tighten the small screw (hex), which is annoying if you ever get a flat. Does anybody know a better solution/better axle?
Not a better solution, but a solution. Take a old inner tube. Cut it in a circle, with the diameter of the axle nut. Cut a small hole in the circle, a little bit smaller than the axle diameter. And put this piece between the frame and nut. It solves your problem. It did for me.
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The rear axle is coming loose every now and than. Really need to tighten the small screw (hex), which is annoying if you ever get a flat. Does anybody know a better solution/better axle?
Not a better solution, but a solution. Take a old inner tube. Cut it in a circle, with the diameter of the axle nut. Cut a small hole in the circle, a little bit smaller than the axle diameter. And put this piece between the frame and nut. It solves your problem. It did for me.
Thnx, I'll give that a try. Not sure why it would work (as long as it works, I don't care I don't understand ;D )
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The rear axle is coming loose every now and than. Really need to tighten the small screw (hex), which is annoying if you ever get a flat. Does anybody know a better solution/better axle?
Not a better solution, but a solution. Take a old inner tube. Cut it in a circle, with the diameter of the axle nut. Cut a small hole in the circle, a little bit smaller than the axle diameter. And put this piece between the frame and nut. It solves your problem. It did for me.
To be sure, the piece of inner tube sits directly between nut and frame and gets 'squashed' when tightening? Can you than go without the small screw? Or do you still need it?
What axle do you have? Any specific one that work really well?
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The rear axle is coming loose every now and than. Really need to tighten the small screw (hex), which is annoying if you ever get a flat. Does anybody know a better solution/better axle?
Not a better solution, but a solution. Take a old inner tube. Cut it in a circle, with the diameter of the axle nut. Cut a small hole in the circle, a little bit smaller than the axle diameter. And put this piece between the frame and nut. It solves your problem. It did for me.
To be sure, the piece of inner tube sits directly between nut and frame and gets 'squashed' when tightening? Can you than go without the small screw? Or do you still need it?
What axle do you have? Any specific one that work really well?
Yes, that's correct. No need for the small screw. I'm using a DT Swiss axle with nut. But the axle doesn't matter.
Without the piece of inner tube, the nut getting loose because of the vibrations. Using a piece of inner tube, the nut won't spin that easy anymore. That's why this solution will works. And tighten the axle/nut more isn't the solution.
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Regarding the nut getting loose from the axle:
While I never tried this as the problem had not arise, I was thinking using teflon tape (aka PTFE or plumber's tape) might help. They are really cheap and you probably have it already.
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The rear axle is coming loose every now and than. Really need to tighten the small screw (hex), which is annoying if you ever get a flat. Does anybody know a better solution/better axle?
Not a better solution, but a solution. Take a old inner tube. Cut it in a circle, with the diameter of the axle nut. Cut a small hole in the circle, a little bit smaller than the axle diameter. And put this piece between the frame and nut. It solves your problem. It did for me.
To be sure, the piece of inner tube sits directly between nut and frame and gets 'squashed' when tightening? Can you than go without the small screw? Or do you still need it?
What axle do you have? Any specific one that work really well?
Yes, that's correct. No need for the small screw. I'm using a DT Swiss axle with nut. But the axle doesn't matter.
Without the piece of inner tube, the nut getting loose because of the vibrations. Using a piece of inner tube, the nut won't spin that easy anymore. That's why this solution will works. And tighten the axle/nut more isn't the solution.
While I only did a short test ride, it seems to be a good solution. Thnx for the advice. Will now cut a few extra's a spares :)