Wow! I was kinda waiting for one of the Chendors to start selling a DW-Link style full suspension frame. Now I wonder if a 29" version will be coming?
Here is a picture:
(http://www.workswellbikes.com/upload/images/20140813144959_73980.jpg)
Is this a better suspension design than the one on the IP-036?
Is this a better suspension design than the one on the IP-036?
Well...I did it. Ordered the frame.
1. BSA bottom bracket
2. Standard QR
3. Matt UD finish
Wow! I was kinda waiting for one of the Chendors to start selling a DW-Link style full suspension frame. Now I wonder if a 29" version will be coming?
Here is a picture:
(http://www.workswellbikes.com/upload/images/20140813144959_73980.jpg)
@RS VR6, I like the lines of your future Hard Tail!
They are somehow more modern, straighter than the 256 / 057.
I'm always wondering if the 10mm shorter chainstay(compared to the 256) makes any difference, or we are just marketing victims.
Did you take the QR as you have existing wheels, or you don't like thru-axle?
Looking forward for the build!
Wow...these guys are slow to ship. Its been 7+ days since I paid...they said it'll be another 2 to 3 days before they ship.
You will have to do a review for us all, detailing how upgrading the frame improved your ride experience.
I'd also like to hear your thoughts on the Syntace P6.. Is it a night and day difference compared to a normal carbon post?
Build looks great - Really dig the wheels.
Looks good bro. So any quick rides as of yet? Wondering if if you can feel any flex or speak to the rigidity of the frame.
This is what I think we'll see a lot more of; Guys buying a chiner frame to swap over from an existing alloy bike.
If you plan on using front derailleur...not sure how your going to do it. There is a small opening behind the seat tube...but no routing for the cable under the bottom bracket.
I'd also like to hear your thoughts on the Syntace P6.. Is it a night and day difference compared to a normal carbon post?
The P6 does take the sting out of some larger lumps. It not a suspension post like a Thudbuster...but it does soften up some hits. It makes an aluminum post feel like a jackhammer. The farther you slide your rear back on the saddle...the more damping you feel.
That looks like some expensive shifter cable!
I'd also like to hear your thoughts on the Syntace P6.. Is it a night and day difference compared to a normal carbon post?
I also own a syntace p6 on my chiner, and would say its about 3x as shock absorbent as I thought it would be, im light at 150lbs and the flex is incredible yet not flimsy, http://velonews.competitor.com/files/2012/05/090_VeloJun.jpg I find it incredible that some stiff seatposts are more dampening then a thudbuster....
The P6 does take the sting out of some larger lumps. It not a suspension post like a Thudbuster...but it does soften up some hits. It makes an aluminum post feel like a jackhammer. The farther you slide your rear back on the saddle...the more damping you feel.
Thanks for the input. I've long considered the short travel version of the Thudbuster and was wondering how the P6 compared as an alternative.
Still like it. Rides awesome.
No I did not. I just don't have enough faith in those particular parts...especially the handlebar.Believe me, there's nothing wrong with these cheap Chinees handlebars, seat posts and stems.
No I did not. I just don't have enough faith in those particular parts...especially the handlebar.Believe me, there's nothing wrong with these cheap Chinees handlebars, seat posts and stems.
I am a big fan of getting the vendor to provide some custom paint, my IP-057 turned out really nice and adds a nice bit of customization for a low price. It may depend on who paints your frame, my IP-036 wasn't painted quite as nicely as my IP-057. Hopefully the paint work would turn out nice for you.
No I did not. I just don't have enough faith in those particular parts...especially the handlebar.Believe me, there's nothing wrong with these cheap Chinees handlebars, seat posts and stems.
I hope so...i was originally going to paint it like a niner, and use the wording "chiner" in the same niner font (axiom regular)...but i didn't want to buy the font, and it just came off as almost racist to me (from an outsider/non mtn biker perspective), so that got scrapped.
Well, I've ordered this frame in UD Matte 18.5" BSA. I hope it fits me:-). Probably build it with a 1x setup of some sort.
How big of tires do you think this frame would be able to handle in the rear. Their page says 2.3 inches.. Do you think that a 2.25 racing ralph sized tire with some mud would rub? Is there anyway you could take a picture of the clearance of the rear tire between chainstays? Thanks a bunch in advance..
Just a question....in aliexpress website there are 4 BB options:Since BB92 means that the BB frame is 92mm, you think that the frame is different (because BSA, BB30 and PF30 is 68mm). Or do you think that the use an adaptor for the BB92 ??
- BB30
PF30
BSA
BB92
- 2
Where do you want measurement at?
Where do you want measurement at?
Where the widest part of the tire sits. Thanks
The biggest issue I had was the rear brake posts. Not enough clearance for the rotor to spin and not perpendicular either. I realize I could get a tool to do this or have a shop do it. For now some washers are doing the trick. A few passes with the dremel got enough clnc for the rotor.
I measure mine at 2.8". with my 1.9" Thunder Burt tire, my calipers show .4" clearance on each side of the tire at the widest point. hope this helps.
Jason
The biggest issue I had was the rear brake posts. Not enough clearance for the rotor to spin and not perpendicular either. I realize I could get a tool to do this or have a shop do it. For now some washers are doing the trick. A few passes with the dremel got enough clnc for the rotor.
I read about the same problem on some 256-sl frames, threads on postmount weren't build perpendicular. I myself was thinking about purchasing this frame, but that issue i pretty big turnoff.
If you're in the US...but Price Point and Jenson are always having sales.
Quick question- what is a cheaper wheel set to get until I can afford carbon?
Is your fox fork a g2 geo?
Kewl Headbadge!
8)
bxcc -- are you going to build it up once you get the frame or is it going to be a slow build? Would like to see another one built up before I order. I hate this "pick your frame" stage as I change my mind every time I think about the frames. It is super hard to pass up the price on the 062, seeing it is at least 100$ cheaper than the cheapest frame from competitors (other than flyxii).
Just pulled the trigger on the 062 this tuesday. Got a mail this morning that is has shipped. Will be building it with Rock Shox SID XX and transfer most of my parts from my current Boardman Alu 29er to this 062. 8)
Someone paid taxes to import frames from china?
Someone paid taxes to import frames from china?
And now some word about building experience. >:(
-Upper hole for rear brake hose was almost impossible to reeve because the frame hose attached to hole was cut to 5-7cm instead off have it ending down at BB hatch. No way I could hit frame hose and pull it outside the upper hole. After so many trials and errors (tried even with NdFeB magnet) I took some cord and pull it down to the hatch, tie it to j-bend spoke and screw the spoke into the brake hose coming/peeping from chainstay direction. I started gently pulling up the cord and somehow the brake hose was out.
-Rear brake postmount wasn't perpendicular to the disc. it wasn't much so I file it down. It's ok by eye, but I'm gonna search for some LBS with ParkTool DT-4 to make it perfectly flat.
-Shifter cable and housing, was nightmare. Any way, if you can try to pull cable housing all the way through the frame from shifter to derailleur, don't combine with those tiny (inner) transparent cable housings.
Sorry for poor image quality, will put some more soon
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/27158202/web%20pic/Bajk.jpg)
I've got a problem with my build. The last parts for my build just arrived from Germany, and the headset I ordered KCKC KHS F13 https://www.bike-components.de/en/KCNC/KHS-F13-ZS44-28-6-ZS56-40-Steuersatz-p36388/ (https://www.bike-components.de/en/KCNC/KHS-F13-ZS44-28-6-ZS56-40-Steuersatz-p36388/) doesn't fit the frame. I thought it would being 1 1/8 to 1,5". I didn't get the original headset supplied with the frame, so does anyone know what I need to order for it to fit this frame and my new Rockshox SID XX Tapered?
Any help would be much appreciated - feeling kind of bummed not being able to put it together tonight as planned :-[
Looks good - did you start that ride all the way down by the buildings? Looks like you've got a whole bunch of climbing available! :DYes, lots of climbing and lots of descending, and this not even half of height to the peak. :) You can choose either only climb in one direction to 1000m height, and just descent back down to town or ride short climbs/descents or combine both all the way through the forest "hiking" trails.
Maybe not immediately, but I would suggest checking tension on your wheels. Bikestacja has great prices but the lacing skills of the people there are not the highest (I have on set from them for about 6 years now)thanks for information, I would check the tension regularly regardless which wheels I ride :) maybe they are more experienced now after 6 years :D
How tall are you LHSN? And what size of stem are you using?I'm 180cm, 90mm stem. If you're between 175-180cm I would suggest 18.5" and shorter stem rather than 17" and longer stem.
Looks good - did you start that ride all the way down by the buildings? Looks like you've got a whole bunch of climbing available! :DYes, lots of climbing and lots of descending, and this not even half of height to the peak. :) You can choose either only climb in one direction to 1000m height, and just descent back down to town or ride short climbs/descents or combine both all the way through the forest "hiking" trails.
Finally got my Workswell up and running.
Think I'm gonna call it "Black Mamba" or something like that. It's not quite finished yet. Still waiting for a carbon handlebar to finish up the build. And maybe I'll put another stem on the bike as well.
Overall, I'm pretty happy with the build.
I think that stem longer than 100mm is overkill on 29er. You get that truck steering feel :)
Is it possible to mount a 156mm sram xx1 crank on the bb92 version of this frame? My worries are about the q factor
Is it possible to mount a 156mm sram xx1 crank on the bb92 version of this frame? My worries are about the q factor
Q-factor should not depend on BB type. so if I have 156Q with GXP BSA, then you won't have problem with clearance.
Is it possible to mount a 156mm sram xx1 crank on the bb92 version of this frame? My worries are about the q factor
Q-factor should not depend on BB type. so if I have 156Q with GXP BSA, then you won't have problem with clearance.
Yes but is 156mm ok for this frame or do have I to mount 168?
Is it possible to mount a 156mm sram xx1 crank on the bb92 version of this frame? My worries are about the q factor
Q-factor should not depend on BB type. so if I have 156Q with GXP BSA, then you won't have problem with clearance.
Yes but is 156mm ok for this frame or do have I to mount 168?
Mine came with the 142 parts also...which I recently switched to. I like the 142 so much more than the 135 QR! Wheel goes on so much easier, especially on the bike stand.
PS: you should buy a pair of cable cutter. Side cutters don't do a good job as you can see here. I also use cable cutter to shorten brakes hose. Then, you can buy cable ends for maybe 2 bucks the dozen. This bike deserves a nice finishing ;D
Anyone want to venture a guess on the size of this bolt? The set screw threaded into the dropout. I don't have the bike with me. The bolt itself seems like it's real soft and waiting to be stripped. I want to replace it with a grub screw that has no head and will fit flush with the dropout.
I also agree that the threads should be tapped into the dropout. Not sure why they have a separate nut.
Tks ;D
(http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z14/RS_VR6/Bike%20stuff/IMG_20151103_135241_zpsvdd1j4td.jpg) (http://s195.photobucket.com/user/RS_VR6/media/Bike%20stuff/IMG_20151103_135241_zpsvdd1j4td.jpg.html)
I also have a couple of rides with it in "chubby girl" mode. I'm definitely liking it better versus the 29x2.2 tires on 18mm wide rims. The ride seems about the same but there is quite a bit more give. I would still like to try it with some wide 29er wheels with 30mm rims. So now is the big question, do I keep it or sell it for Workswell's plus size frame. I know that that will require new wheels but if I plan on keeping it as a chubby bike, new wheels are inevitable. The only downside is that I would need some new wheels for gravel grinding as the current 29 wheels obviously aren't boost size.
My wife says my combination of being a tweaker and a gear junkie is killing my savings....
I love the flat / ovalised shaping on the top tube and seat stays. i'm not sure if that is how a Stumpjumper looks, or if Workswell has done any design themselves. I usually don't pay much attention to specialized, after their prices sky rocketed.
Although after I'd threaded mine through, I wondered if taping an outer gear cable to the hose would work better to guide it through the tube?
LOL, I used to be a bike shop mechanic. Change of career now, and I try to steer clear of most bike shops. I don't need some kid telling me I need an 10K SWorks! But yeah I may need to drop into the old shop - they'll give me grief for buying a chinese frame!
This might allow you to cut off the Banjo, and thread the hose through from the front:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/191700531574?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
What is EBB? Sorry for my ignorance. I have to buy a frame for an xx1 gxp crank. What do you suggest me, bsa o bb92?
What is EBB? Sorry for my ignorance. I have to buy a frame for an xx1 gxp crank. What do you suggest me, bsa o bb92?
Nice looking bike Viperdriver! Why did you go to geared? I was debating about making mine a SS. Mainly because I ordered a dedicated plus frame from Workswell and the SS conversion would be the cheapest way to keep it in the stable. And I always wanted to try one.
Hi bxcc,
I mean to the quality of the frame. I am not professional biker but I like to ride strongly. I know Chinese 062 frame is not equals to genuine brand but I only would ask a minimum quality to not crash. So I ask those have already tried this frame. I am waiting for your quality opinions about it. Thanks.
Also, check out Workswell's youtube video's. They aren't anything special but it does look like they at least test some of the frames.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-T0NwdQ1b3BnXOSd0dH9uQ
Had mine for 6 months now and several hundred miles, zero issues. Just added some decals this week, to make it look like my first bike, a Dyno Detour, from when I was 10. I'll post photos once the site allows it again.
My build got spun off to this link by the mods: http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,685.msg7546.html#msg7546
062 17" frame painted gloss white , PF30, 12x142 rear axle
beer ebb PF30 to GXP
Light bicycle all mountain carbon rims
Hope pro 2 evo hubs
XTR race M985 brakes
160mm ice tech rotors
Ti rotor bolts
XX1 GXP carbon cranks
Absolute black oval 32t chainring
rocket ron 2.1 and 2.25 tubeless
RockShox XX RCT3 fork w/ 15mm thru axle
Spyder twin tail seat
XX1 derailleur, trigger shift, and cassette
ESI Chunky grips
UNO 60mm stem
xpedo spry pedals
XXF seat post clamp
chinese carbon seat post "Easton"
chinese carbon "Look" bars, 720mm
(http://i63.tinypic.com/x3sfu8.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/34zd3k9.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/33v1b43.jpg)
Is workswell the only place to get it?
Who has everyone else dealt with? I think the main issue is the sales guy not admitting that its his mistake. I sent an email to their info email last night, but haven't received a reply.
I got mine through eBay before the name change to Sobatostore. I have no idea who I dealt with. They did respond reasonably fast though.
How is the EBB holding up in the Carbon PF30 Shell? Any Creaks? How long have you been running it with the EBB for?
How is the EBB holding up in the Carbon PF30 Shell? Any Creaks? How long have you been running it with the EBB for?
About 400 miles. No problems, no creaks. It's great so far.
Bummer man. What are you going to go with now?
Did you tell them that you are opening a dispute with Paypal?
Hi everyone. Has anybody know if the carbon frame I write the link is an update of the WCB-M 062?. The seller is COMPETITIVE CYCLIST in AliExpress.
http://es.aliexpress.com/store/product/mtb-carbon-frame-29er-Special-carbon-mtb-frame-27-5-carbon-bike-frame-mtb-frame-29/1943074_32506687329.html?spm=2114.04020208.3.67.7IWGGK&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_3,searchweb201644_3_10001_10002_10005_10006_10003_10004_62,searchweb201560_1,searchweb1451318400_6149 (http://es.aliexpress.com/store/product/mtb-carbon-frame-29er-Special-carbon-mtb-frame-27-5-carbon-bike-frame-mtb-frame-29/1943074_32506687329.html?spm=2114.04020208.3.67.7IWGGK&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_3,searchweb201644_3_10001_10002_10005_10006_10003_10004_62,searchweb201560_1,searchweb1451318400_6149)
Thank in advance.
Actually. The geometry is the same - Sworks copy, but the frame looks a bit different.
The dropouts aren't replaceable, and the rear brake routing looks to be external along the downtube.
Would be good to see the page in English.
Hi everyone. Has anybody know if the carbon frame I write the link is an update of the WCB-M 062?. The seller is COMPETITIVE CYCLIST in AliExpress.
http://es.aliexpress.com/store/product/mtb-carbon-frame-29er-Special-carbon-mtb-frame-27-5-carbon-bike-frame-mtb-frame-29/1943074_32506687329.html?spm=2114.04020208.3.67.7IWGGK&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_3,searchweb201644_3_10001_10002_10005_10006_10003_10004_62,searchweb201560_1,searchweb1451318400_6149 (http://es.aliexpress.com/store/product/mtb-carbon-frame-29er-Special-carbon-mtb-frame-27-5-carbon-bike-frame-mtb-frame-29/1943074_32506687329.html?spm=2114.04020208.3.67.7IWGGK&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_3,searchweb201644_3_10001_10002_10005_10006_10003_10004_62,searchweb201560_1,searchweb1451318400_6149)
Thank in advance.
Well, my refund came through to Paypal.
I got the full refund, which puzzles me. Surely it would have been cheaper for them to send me a new frame, than give me a full refund?
Theoretically, I could now use that cash to buy a new frame from them, at that price including shipping.
Oh well I now need to find another frame!
Actually. The geometry is the same - Sworks copy, but the frame looks a bit different.
The dropouts aren't replaceable, and the rear brake routing looks to be external along the downtube.
Would be good to see the page in English.
Sorry xcbarny. You'r right. Here you are the link in english.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2015-new-model-MTB-SWorks-carbon-mtb-frame-29er-Mountain-bikes-frames-27-5er-headset-15/32462607307.html (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2015-new-model-MTB-SWorks-carbon-mtb-frame-29er-Mountain-bikes-frames-27-5er-headset-15/32462607307.html)
My worry with this company is, they've only been on AliExpress for a year, and most of there frames seem to be knock offs. I imagine that they stay up for a while, until Specialized get them taken down for counterfeiting, then they change their name to something else, and come back up on AliExpress.
I guess this doesn't mean that there'd be an issue with their frames, but they might be a bit hard to track down if you do have a problem.
My worry with this company is, they've only been on AliExpress for a year, and most of there frames seem to be knock offs. I imagine that they stay up for a while, until Specialized get them taken down for counterfeiting, then they change their name to something else, and come back up on AliExpress.
I guess this doesn't mean that there'd be an issue with their frames, but they might be a bit hard to track down if you do have a problem.
Maybe I'm wrong but I don't think Specilized can do jack about Chinese companies selling knock-offs
I did read an article about how specialized has a dedicated team, trawling though Alibaba and Dhgate etc, and getting counterfeit listings removed. I won't list it here, as there was a lot of BS about all chinese frames being inferior.
Hi. I have seen most of you whose have built on wcs-m-062 frame have used forks with 100mm. Spec uses forks with 95mm in Stumpjumpers. Could you feel the difference when riding? Thanks
I have the bb92 version. Got mine from Aliexpress, the workswell page.
I have the bb92 version. Got mine from Aliexpress, the workswell page.
Hey cool. I thought about getting the BB92. Only reason I didn't get it was because I already have the BSA BB. I'm curious, what does it look like on the 062?
My Mach 5 runs a BB92.
I have received the frame with pf30. All of you have received it with the bottom bracket installed? Is it only installed or also glued?
Yes, that's the same as what I received, when I ordered a PF30 frame.
The adaptor is glued in, and can't be removed (even they said that they couldn't remove it after I sent it back to them).
In my case, I couldn't use the frame, as I needed to fit an Eccentric BB in there, but maybe you can just get a 24mm Crankset?
I was dealing with Yoyo Yang, and found him very hard to deal with. On several occasions, I tried to explain to him why this frame would not work for me, but he never seemed to understand. They also wanted me to pay for them to ship a replacement frame back to me, which I refused, and I eventually got a refund. (but it still cost me $50 to ship it back to them.)
Unfortunately, they don't seem to understand what PF30 is, he kept telling me that they sent me a PF30 frame, even though it would no longer accept a PF30 bottom bracket.
Have you been in contact with them about the issue?
I think if anyone is looking to buy this frame, then they should avoid the PF30 option, and go with BB30 or BSA.
Yes, that's the same as what I received, when I ordered a PF30 frame.
The adaptor is glued in, and can't be removed (even they said that they couldn't remove it after I sent it back to them).
In my case, I couldn't use the frame, as I needed to fit an Eccentric BB in there, but maybe you can just get a 24mm Crankset?
I was dealing with Yoyo Yang, and found him very hard to deal with. On several occasions, I tried to explain to him why this frame would not work for me, but he never seemed to understand. They also wanted me to pay for them to ship a replacement frame back to me, which I refused, and I eventually got a refund. (but it still cost me $50 to ship it back to them.)
Have you been in contact with them about the issue?
I think if anyone is looking to buy this frame, then they should avoid the PF30 option, and go with BB30 or BSA.
For me this is ok because I have a gxp xx1 crank. But..is it safe? I am worried about the glue!
Dang, sorry fellas. I got a pf30 and had no such trouble. It showed up with no bb, I put my eccentric in, and it's been great for several hundred miles. I didn't realize how lucky I was.
G'day gent's!
RS VR6: What is the 062 frame's condition now for almost 10 months with your riding style? I guess it is holding up much better than the 256SL.
G'day gent's!
RS VR6: What is the 062 frame's condition now for almost 10 months with your riding style? I guess it is holding up much better than the 256SL.
Hello all, I tried sifting through this thread but I am pretty new to the forum and I can't find any "search this thread" function here. Anyway I've had the M-062 since january, It's done well aside from a few small issues.
1. The rear 142 axle has bent. Does anyone know of a replacement? One user mentioned an Ibis axle but said it wasn't long enough. Is there a DT swiss RWS axle with the correct length an/or thread pitch? A bolt on axle would be awesome.
2. I have mine paired up with bike hub store (bitex) hubs with the XD driver. The chain rubs on the seatstay/chainstay junction when I'm in the smallest cog. I ground down a pedal washer to stick in the droupout and fixed the problem but it's not exactly an elegant solution.
Anyone have these problems? Suggestions to fix?
Thanks in advance!
Hello all, I tried sifting through this thread but I am pretty new to the forum and I can't find any "search this thread" function here. Anyway I've had the M-062 since january, It's done well aside from a few small issues.
1. The rear 142 axle has bent. Does anyone know of a replacement? One user mentioned an Ibis axle but said it wasn't long enough. Is there a DT swiss RWS axle with the correct length an/or thread pitch? A bolt on axle would be awesome.
2. I have mine paired up with bike hub store (bitex) hubs with the XD driver. The chain rubs on the seatstay/chainstay junction when I'm in the smallest cog. I ground down a pedal washer to stick in the droupout and fixed the problem but it's not exactly an elegant solution.
Anyone have these problems? Suggestions to fix?
Thanks in advance!
Hello all, I tried sifting through this thread but I am pretty new to the forum and I can't find any "search this thread" function here. Anyway I've had the M-062 since january, It's done well aside from a few small issues.
1. The rear 142 axle has bent. Does anyone know of a replacement? One user mentioned an Ibis axle but said it wasn't long enough. Is there a DT swiss RWS axle with the correct length an/or thread pitch? A bolt on axle would be awesome.
2. I have mine paired up with bike hub store (bitex) hubs with the XD driver. The chain rubs on the seatstay/chainstay junction when I'm in the smallest cog. I ground down a pedal washer to stick in the droupout and fixed the problem but it's not exactly an elegant solution.
Anyone have these problems? Suggestions to fix?
Thanks in advance!
Hi guys. I need your help. Two issues I don't know how to do. The first issue concerns to q-factor. Based on your experience, what fits better in wcb-m-062 frame: 156 mm or 168 mm?. The second issue is about the rear axel screw. I don't know what kind (or brand) of 142x12 use. Thanks in advance.
Hi guys. I need your help. Two issues I don't know how to do. The first issue concerns to q-factor. Based on your experience, what fits better in wcb-m-062 frame: 156 mm or 168 mm?. The second issue is about the rear axel screw. I don't know what kind (or brand) of 142x12 use. Thanks in advance.
1) I run 168 cranks without any issues. Not sure if the 156 cranks would fit.
2) Check the post before yours as it's covered there with a link.
Thanks a lot for the information.
bxcc:
I had a qoute for $550 (frame + fork)! Your's were well priced for $450. I could add a paint job and a straight carbon 720mm handlebar for $550. Maybe you could direct us followers where to crack that nice deal? I opted to receive the package here in China just to save $ from customs duties (working around China, Japan & Korea).
You're tip is very much appreciated bud ;)
Hi Guys,
I finally got my frame. Unfortunatly it seems like the derailleur hanger is a bit bent. Someone got that problem too?
And what about the rear axle? To me it seems pretty heavy and not really reliable.. and the nut too. Do you know an alternative?
Greetings
Norman
I have the Park Tools derailleur alignment tool, works very nicely. Luckily I have not needed to use it since I built my last bike. I'd bet it's a good idea to check your alignment on any new frame build. The hanger is an easy thing to get bent even if there is no visible signs of damage.
For me it would not even be a question, BSA threaded bottom bracket, SRAM GXP XX1 carbon crank, Q-168. That's what I have on both my 057 and 036 Chiners. However, that's what I like, you may have your reasons for choosing different options.
Yep, appreciate the effort. Any thoughts on the best offset for the fork on this frame? Fox offers 44 and 51mm versions in the 32 factory.
Yep, appreciate the effort. Any thoughts on the best offset for the fork on this frame? Fox offers 44 and 51mm versions in the 32 factory.
44 or 46 will work better on this frame. The G2 51mm offset forks are designed to work on bikes with head tube angles of 69.5 degress or less.
With the workswell having a 71 HTA, the G2 fork would be too twitchy.
I assume this is partially driven by the 29r frame geo? I ordered the 18.5" and I'm 6' 1".
When talking wider bar is 740-780 considered wide?
On another note, what is the lower headset size? I need a new lower unit (or at least a new race) so I can run a straight 1 1/8 steerer. I know it's a fully integrated unit but unsure of size.
On another note, what is the lower headset size? I need a new lower unit (or at least a new race) so I can run a straight 1 1/8 steerer. I know it's a fully integrated unit but unsure of size.
Something like this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/J-L-1-1-8-to-1-1-2-Tapered-Steerer-Crown-Ring-fork-Headtube-Adaptor-Headset/271266207368?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3Dd6140e9173fe4fbf83f99f31a4734a4d%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D361257317902
Survey:
062 on a Niner RDO fork?
Purpose: touring bike with marathon supreme tyres 2.0
Any comments my chiner brothers? :-\
Pic from the weekend. Sorry for the picture faux pas...my shadow and non driveside. Also finally chased away all the ticks and creaks on the bike.
(http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z14/RS_VR6/Bike%20stuff/IMG_20160521_174853_zpsxeu9xh5g.jpg) (http://s195.photobucket.com/user/RS_VR6/media/Bike%20stuff/IMG_20160521_174853_zpsxeu9xh5g.jpg.html)
And I still look for an easy way to silence the rattling brake hose inside the frame. In the best case without loosen the hose.Two solutions:
I had four noises that I was chasing down.
1. I found to be my Nokon shift housing. Some light lube on the links fixed that.
2. Where the brake hose enters the frame. It's a tight fit, so I guess the friction was making a creaking sound when I turn the bar.. Again, some light lube fixed that.
3. Loud creaking from the front end after fixing the creaking from the shift housing and brake hose. Took apart the headset, cleaned and re lubed the bearings and the cups where they sit. I did a ride after and so far...no noise.
4. The ticking...this was the one I was chasing for a while. I initially thought it was the seat rail, cleaned and lubed the hardware. Then I thought it was the seat rail...lubed the rail and clamp...nope. Cleaned and regreased the seat clamp bolt...nope. Swapped saddles...still nope. So out of the blue one night...I turned the seat clamp around 180 degrees. Boom...no more noise. ::)
If the creaking is making noise when you're out of the saddle...it's probably not the seat post. Double check the headset and bottom bracket. If you're running a double chainring...also check that the chainring bolts are tight and greased.
The rattling inside the frame isn't that bad. I'd have to be going pretty fast over some real rough terrain for it to be really noticeable...or maybe I'm just used to it. ;D
And I still look for an easy way to silence the rattling brake hose inside the frame. In the best case without loosen the hose.Two solutions:
- Isolation tube: http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,150.msg2326.html#msg2326
- Sponges: http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/chinese-carbon-29er-640919-320.html#post11461755
I had four noises that I was chasing down.
1. I found to be my Nokon shift housing. Some light lube on the links fixed that.
2. Where the brake hose enters the frame. It's a tight fit, so I guess the friction was making a creaking sound when I turn the bar.. Again, some light lube fixed that.
3. Loud creaking from the front end after fixing the creaking from the shift housing and brake hose. Took apart the headset, cleaned and re lubed the bearings and the cups where they sit. I did a ride after and so far...no noise.
4. The ticking...this was the one I was chasing for a while. I initially thought it was the seat rail, cleaned and lubed the hardware. Then I thought it was the seat rail...lubed the rail and clamp...nope. Cleaned and regreased the seat clamp bolt...nope. Swapped saddles...still nope. So out of the blue one night...I turned the seat clamp around 180 degrees. Boom...no more noise. ::)
If the creaking is making noise when you're out of the saddle...it's probably not the seat post. Double check the headset and bottom bracket. If you're running a double chainring...also check that the chainring bolts are tight and greased.
The rattling inside the frame isn't that bad. I'd have to be going pretty fast over some real rough terrain for it to be really noticeable...or maybe I'm just used to it. ;D
Next thing I will try, is removing the headset, cause it's easier than taking out the BB30 again.. (and probably have to take new ones due to destroying the current while removing).
So you greased the carbon headtube cup itself? I was not quite sure, if it will harm the carbon.. I did it anyway, cause that's the way I know it's been done.
If the noise is still there, I will have to remove the BB...
Do you use the seatclamp that came with the frame?
I run a single chain ring mounted directly to the crank arm. But I will double check those 3 bolts, too.
The creaking at the hose-entry sounds familiar ;) But every bit of grease attracts dust and dirt..
By the way, what rear axle do you use? Looks light :)
Hi Guys,
I finally got my frame. Unfortunatly it seems like the derailleur hanger is a bit bent. Someone got that problem too?
And what about the rear axle? To me it seems pretty heavy and not really reliable.. and the nut too. Do you know an alternative?
Greetings
Norman
Latest version. Got the Roval Control Carbon 29's (non SL). Final weight is 20.5, ready to ride. With the Garmin and bottle cage.
(http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z14/RS_VR6/Bike%20stuff/IMG_20160605_172004_zps7igiwv7u.jpg) (http://s195.photobucket.com/user/RS_VR6/media/Bike%20stuff/IMG_20160605_172004_zps7igiwv7u.jpg.html)
Now is my bike finished and I have test run it two times. The frame is 18.5 and the weight is 9.3kg with pedals. :)
I will in next week run it in a competition of 78km xc race.
Here is a current picture of my 062 in SS mode with a 100mm Sid XX up front. 21 pounds as it sits. I would like to get it lighter but it will have to do for now.
(https://s31.postimg.org/hcu7lu7bf/IMG_0867.jpg) (https://postimage.org/)
Now is my bike finished and I have test run it two times. The frame is 18.5 and the weight is 9.3kg with pedals. :)
I will in next week run it in a competition of 78km xc race.
Beautiful scenery. I wish I lived so close to a ski resort!
What are you using as a tensioner?
Good price for a saddle. Any idea how much they charge for postage?The price is shipping included.
Just wondering if anyone on here has bothered trying to set up a front mech on theirs?
Im either going to go double or single up front, leaning towards a double mainly for loaded adventure duties. According to Workswell you can run a front mech, but the cable routing looks a little suss to me.
Anyone bothered to try it on theirs?
Cheers, Simon
cable guide and cover:
rear derailleur inner cable slot / front derailleur inner cable slot
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-74_vFTpCrQM/V34F8rNQztI/AAAAAAAALbs/38hvVxZuvTc9RZmFmBGmHFQJkdGNrcQMACCo/s800/IMG_1118.JPG)
I run full hose, entering from the left(1x setup) on the 062.
However on the 256 I had to drill to run full hose.
I prefer this option since most of the year I ride on muddy trails.
But on the 041, I was not sure drilling it would work so I kept it as designed with hose fragments, and bare cable inside.
Will use a Jagwire Elite MTB kit first and see if it works. If it doesn't, I can always drill out the hole and use continuous outer shift cable.
New wheels on the 062 Singlespeed. Weight dropped from 1765 grams to 1575 grams.
Total bike weight is down to 21.1 with heavy SLX trail pedals. My goal is to eventually get it below 20 with pedals but I think it's going to be tough without dropping a crap ton of money. I know the stem is one relatively cheap place I could save some weight as it's an OEM stem from my daughters GT Avalanche. The other place is the crankset. I could loose 100 to 150 grams by going with a Sram carbon direct mount setup or 250 grams with a RF NEXT sl crank. But those will be $200 or $400. The seatpost weighs in at 240g, I'm not sure I can save a whole lot there and still have some setback.
So with my wife's build almost wrapped up and starting to collect parts for the builds for my 2 daughters, I don't think there is much bike money left for me. :o
(https://s31.postimg.org/dk4bfwksn/image.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/dk4bfwksn/)
Bxcc,
Now that both of your Workswell bikes weight about the same...which one is your favorite?
Congrats on the build :)
Looks nice, I bet she will really like it.
WOW!
That is one nice looking ride! :o
I have to get some pictures of my whip up soon!
Looks very nice! Great work ;)
And still lots of potential to build it more lightweight! The syntace seatpost, handlebars, and of course the tires.. For me they were difficult to seal too. I changed them for Schwalbes. Lot easier and lighter..
You could also run a 11-speed chain on that 10-speed cassette to save some grams.
What do you use as chainstay protector? Looks interesting!
For what purpose did you build the bike? Do you think the range of the cassette will be enough?
I ran the exact same setup last racing season and found that it is to hard on long distances, especially in steep climbs.
Very cool bike! I get a few questions if you don't mind.Thanks. In answer to your questions:
1) Decals.
Have you applied anything over the decals? Clear coat? Nothing? If nothing, does it get damaged easily?
2) Rotors.
Do you experience any pulsing with these very light rotors? Fork wobbling? Do you feel they don't break as hard as regular rotors?
3) Seatpost.
That seatpost seems very much out of the frame. Are you sure you get enough length inside?
@rapsac, Nice bike! It looks incredibly to mine! Same brakes and rotors, derailleur, and light carbon parts where you have them. Just a Lauf fork that makes it around 500g lighter :)
Do the xpedo pedals offer some play, or are they rigid like SPD?
Finished:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NuNHcG50hq4/V5M6l8SEJMI/AAAAAAAALy0/79SaZwPAm_8199PLz8cTHoJA-LgRvV9PQCCo/s800/IMG_1216.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EVj-TwW2rVw/V5M0m4UMYmI/AAAAAAAALxI/wZF0SNsp_sM4qCxzWAuDKA8CjbeT1DSzACCo/s800/IMG_1213.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mGOfdKHOT2o/V5M0q7n1fFI/AAAAAAAALxI/DSszIP35HoU5Ey0qwX3-XclWCEmYH0hqQCCo/s800/IMG_1211.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x5_7cwV4Ggw/V5M5wI6im3I/AAAAAAAALy4/_1__Wt1IDQctL-PW1gXNLIcjvZQYB05MACCo/s800/IMG_1222.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YYNBvRcIHQo/V5M528BmWtI/AAAAAAAALy4/XnnE6oR3G1IaGghARMZ8Y-wca5tuEtEkACCo/s800/IMG_1219.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EWDaQLOI808/V5M5yifjBLI/AAAAAAAALy4/fSMK9kkaPpUComOKwtcd6mpVtEJxoG3HACCo/s800/IMG_1221.JPG)
Frame: Workswell WCB-M-062 18,5", QR adapters fitted: 1261 g
Fork: Rock Shox SID 29 RCT3 solo air cut steerer: 1541 g
QR15 front: Extralite Blacklock RS: 27 g
QR rear: Extralite Alien 4: 22 g
Headset: noname 1.125" - 1.5" integrated, excl starnut/topcap/bolt: 70 g
Starnut: FSA steel: 10 g
Topcap+bolt: absoluteBLACK alu all-in-one: 3 g
Spacers: noname carbon 2 x 5mm: 4 g
GPS mount: K-Edge stem mount fixed angle, 5mm integrated spacer: 20 g
Stem: Syntace F109 6deg 100mm with titanium screws: 113 g
Handlebar: Niner Flat Top RDO 710mm: 158 g
Bar plugs: ESI logo removed: 4 g
Grips: ESI racer's edge: 43 g
Seatpost: Syntace P6 full carbon 27.2mm/400mm: 231 g
Seatpost clamp: Carbon-Ti X Clamp 3 31.8mm: 8 g
Saddle: Selle Italia SLR kit carbonio flow black: 123 g
Shifter: Shimano XTR 10 speed incl Hope Race lever clamp: 102 g
Crankarms: SRAM X01 carbon GXP 175mm: 476 g
Crankboots: Race Face black plastic (large): 17 g
Chainrings: absoluteBLACK SRAM spiderless 34T Oval alu: 67 g
Bottom Bracket: Hope BSA stainless steel incl 1 spacer + GXP spacer: 116 g
Cassette: SRAM XX 11-36 incl alu lockring: 213 g
Rear derailleur: Shimano XTR 10 speed shadow GS (medium cage): 217 g
Chain: KMC X10SL DLC black: 232 g
Pedals: Xpedo M-FORCE 8-TI: 219 g
Shift cables: Shimano SP41 continuous outer + inner: 90 g
Brakes: Hope Race Evo X2 set, incl pads and clampbolts, excl lower clamp: 400 g
Caliper bolts: Hope titanium: 12 g
Rotor front: KCNC Razor 160mm: 73 g
Rotor rear: KCNC Razor 160mm: 73 g
Rotor bolts: Carbon-Ti titanium M5x10 T25 12x: 13,8 g
Hub front: Carbon-Ti MTB SL X hub 100mm QR15 - 32H: 110 g
Rim front: Duke Lucky Jack 2016 incl white stickers: 355 g
Spokes front: Sapim CX Ray (L+R:32x 292mm): 154 g
Nipples front: Sapim Polyax alu 12mm 32x: 10 g
Rim tape front: Notubes yellow tape 25mm: 7 g
Valve front: Schwalbe black aluminium: 4,5 g
Tire front: Continental RaceKing RaceSport 2,2: 540 g
Hub rear: Carbon-Ti MTB SL X hub 135mm QR - 32H: 197 g
Rim rear: Duke Lucky Jack 2016 incl white stickers: 350 g
Spokes rear: Sapim CX Ray (L:16x 292mm + R:16x 290mm): 153 g
Nipples rear: Sapim Polyax alu 12mm 32x: 10 g
Rim tape rear: Notubes yellow tape 25mm: 7 g
Valve rear: Schwalbe black aluminium: 4,5 g
Tire rear: Continental RaceKing RaceSport 2,2: 542 g
Bottle cage: Tune Wasserträger Universal carbon incl 2 alu bolts: 20 g
Bottle cage bolts: Silicon bolt plug 3x: 0,75 g
Other: latex / frame protection / grease / dirt ---> to reach scale weight: 166 g
TOTAL WEIGHT: 8590 g
A lot of latex in the RaceSport tires, difficult to seal.
Where did you source the chain stay protector? Looks like it was molded for the frame...
The protector is Slapper Tape.
The protector is Slapper Tape.
There you go. And here's a link: https://www.bike-components.de/de/MarshGuard/Slapper-Tape-Kettenstrebenschutz-p40724/
Thanks! Great looking bike BTW... I'm working on #2 which is the same frame in the 27.5" version for my brother. Can't wait to log some miles.
Hello!
New to the forum, new to 29"-bikes...
Planning on a new bike to build up over the year - so i'm collecting parts and infos at the moment.
The idea is to create something which i can use for touring, getting out and do quite some miles a day, without caring about the terrain - aka a Gravelgrinder.
Therefore I would like to use a big chainring, something around 50T to be able to put up some speed.
But Iam wondering:
Does the M-062 fit such an big chainring? The Diameter of a 50T chainring is ~21cm.
Would somebody who runs the frame, measure it and give me note if it would interfere with the frame or not?
Thanks and hello from germany.
(http://peterschwartz.de/Uploads/chainring-diameter.jpg)
How many rings will it have up front? The more rings you have (1, 2, or 3) the further out the largest ring is. We need to know the effective chainline of the 50t ring to get an accurate measurement.
How many rings will it have up front? The more rings you have (1, 2, or 3) the further out the largest ring is. We need to know the effective chainline of the 50t ring to get an accurate measurement.
Thinking about getting an SRAM CX1 / 1x11. So it would be just the one 50T-Ring.
I would probably also go with an BSA-bb.
(Do the different Bottom Bracket have an significant difference in width - meaning the resulting chainline / distance to the frame?)
Hello!IMHO 50T is way too big to be running on that type of bike.
New to the forum, new to 29"-bikes...
Planning on a new bike to build up over the year - so i'm collecting parts and infos at the moment.
The idea is to create something which i can use for touring, getting out and do quite some miles a day, without caring about the terrain - aka a Gravelgrinder.
Therefore I would like to use a big chainring, something around 50T to be able to put up some speed.
But Iam wondering:
Does the M-062 fit such an big chainring? The Diameter of a 50T chainring is ~21cm.
Would somebody who runs the frame, measure it and give me note if it would interfere with the frame or not?
Thanks and hello from germany.
I'm afraid it won't work.
I run an oval 34 on it, that makes 15cm.
There would be enough space for 16, maybe 16.5cm but not more.
The chainline of the CX may be different, but I doubt you could add 4-5cm to it.
I highly doubt it will work with a 1x setup. For reference, I have the BSA bb with a SRAM GXP crankset / bottom bracket setup. The crankset is made for a 3x setup but I'm using the middle spot for the 32t ring and the outer spot for a bash ring. If I increased the diameter of the bash ring to match your 21cm measurement, it should work but will be very close. The downside is you would have to use the outer most option and the chain line really wouldn't work when you're in your granny gear. That being said, you might have to look at different frames or consider a different gear ratio as there is no way a 50t would fit in the middle ring option.
IMHO 50T is way too big to be running on that type of bike.
Im building up a similar style bike around one of these frames at the moment, actually most of my parts arrived today, just waiting on the workswell frame/fork :D
Im going to be running 2 x 10sp XT, will have plenty of range for speed on fireroads etc and also to easily climb whilst loaded up with bikepacking bags etc.
Ive also got a touring/gravel grinder/cyclocross bike which is set up with 11speed shimano, currently have a 48t big ring and would not want to go any bigger on that, off road with decent tires (even on road on this type of frame) i think you'll find 50T waaaay to big.
Anyway thats just my 2c.
| Chainring | Sprocket | Ratio | Feel | |||||
| Fixed | 50T | 18T | 2,77 | mostly good | ||||
| MTB | 46T | 16T | 2,87 | average gear | ||||
| MTB | 46T | 14T | 3,28 | good speed - could go higher | ||||
| Road | 50T | 17T | 2,94 | average gear | ||||
| Road | 50T | 11T | 4,54 | Never really used |
Your best option is the CS-MB001 frame that can accommodate up to 40T 1x11 chainring.
http://xmcarbonspeed.com/Productinfo.asp?f=1392
http://chinertown.com/index.php?topic=650.0
Usual MTB frames allow up to 36T 1x11. There is a thread about this here: http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,627.0.html (in those days fast-geared MTB bikes were not a thing so a lot of discussion is about why the hell I would need a bigger chainring)
To have 50T chainring you need a 3xsomething setup for sure. Or you need a cyclocross frame with some big tires.
My normal Ratio is somewhat around 2,9. Highest speed should be okay with something around 4.0.
Thanks! Great looking bike BTW... I'm working on #2 which is the same frame in the 27.5" version for my brother. Can't wait to log some miles.
Are you talking about the Workswell WCB-M-062 as an 27.5"?
If yes: Where can I find it?
Snakeskin is a must with such deep tires.For the rear wheel, sure. But even for the front ?
I'm new here and would like to order a workswell WCB-M-062 or the new version. But I have a few question about the frame.
At the site of workswell there are 2 frames:
New version:
http://www.workswellbikes.com/web/view/223.html
Old version:
http://www.workswellbikes.com/web/view/149.html
Are there experiences with the new frame? Can I order it without the chance of early braking? Which frame do you recommend?
I'm a bit afraid if the frame will go well with my weight of approximately 200 pounds. I will use it as a beachracer so it won't be used in heavy environments.
Hello Guys,
I'm new here and would like to order a workswell WCB-M-062 or the new version. But I have a few question about the frame.
At the site of workswell there are 2 frames:
New version:
http://www.workswellbikes.com/web/view/223.html
Old version:
http://www.workswellbikes.com/web/view/149.html
Are there experiences with the new frame? Can I order it without the chance of early braking? Which frame do you recommend?
I'm a bit afraid if the frame will go well with my weight of approximately 200 pounds. I will use it as a beachracer so it won't be used in heavy environments.
Greetings, Gert-Jan
I'll jump in as well and also new. I'm looking at the Workswell WCB-M-062, the CS-057 and the FR202. This last week I cracked my old 2009 Gary Fisher X-Cal 29er at the top of the seat tube. I'm hoping that I can find a frame that will accept most of my components. Does the 062 accept 2.4" tires? I just bought a Goma for up front and Saguaro for the rear and would hate to lose new tires if my new frame doesn't fit them well. Also, I love my Fox F80RL. I'm hoping I can convert it to a 100mm fork and if I can, I plan to use it on my next build. Any issues with using some type of adapter for this 1 1/8 fork with an 062 tapered head?
I'll jump in as well and also new. I'm looking at the Workswell WCB-M-062, the CS-057 and the FR202. This last week I cracked my old 2009 Gary Fisher X-Cal 29er at the top of the seat tube. I'm hoping that I can find a frame that will accept most of my components. Does the 062 accept 2.4" tires? I just bought a Goma for up front and Saguaro for the rear and would hate to lose new tires if my new frame doesn't fit them well. Also, I love my Fox F80RL. I'm hoping I can convert it to a 100mm fork and if I can, I plan to use it on my next build. Any issues with using some type of adapter for this 1 1/8 fork with an 062 tapered head?
So I had time to read the thread today. As I understand it, the Workswell 062 will fit Goma's and Saguaros on 29er rims. From activ3's post, the 27.5+ tires look sweet and doable as well. I've also read today that the CS-057 might have issues with larger tires..that coupled with the price premium, has taken it off my list. As the FR202 is only 135mm and I've read some not so complimentary reviews of Flyxii's service, I'm thinking I may cross them off as well. So that leaves the Workwell. Pretty close to pulling the trigger on it, any issues with using the Fox F80RL 1 1/8 fork with it? I think I read somewhere that the G2 51mm might be more "twitchy" with less slack head angles...I'm a little concerned about that, but with my plans to eventually go plus when I can afford it, it might be better to have a bit of fast steering to it to counter the slow steering of a plus size tire. Thoughts?
I'm not sure that the 062 has a lot more tire clearance than 057. Activ3 could not use 2.8 650b + on 29mm internal width wheel. Patrick C was using a wider rim. 34mm internal width and the 2.8 tire rubbed the frame.
Hi I'm new in the forun ;D can anyone confirm if the frame sold by Sobato bikes on Ebay is in fact the 062The company behind Sobato and Workswell is the same. The Sobato is the retail brand, Workswell is the wholesale brand. That's what a employee told me.
Seems to be close and the price is great thanks.
The BB shell of my PF30 frame is only carbon.
Nothing is glued or any aluminium part(from what I read in this thread, I prefer this).
I find it interesting that I've had two Chiner bikes with BSA bottom brackets, around 3500 miles combined between the two bikes over the 2-3 years of ownership, and I never replaced the bottom brackets. Everything was running smooth when I sold them. Bottom brackets were nothing fancy, just $30 SRAM GXP parts. I ride a variety of conditions from dry and dusty, to damp or muddy. I wash the bike after really muddy rides or when it starts getting mud and dust caked on.
I ll need the measurements / angles of the headset to use with m062 . What are the crown race angles? Is it 36°x45° or 45°x45° or something else?
It seems my 062 has a small crack. http://imgur.com/gallery/NZiPN the first picture shows the first cracking i noticed. The second picture shows a small crack that i cant feel, however every 2 days it leaks out white stuff.. I asked workswell what to do.. they said ride it harder to see if it is a paint crack or a structural crack. I have since ridden it 500km standing more and mashing it as much as I can.. I really can't say if it has gotten any larger, but we will see since I have only had my frame for 1 year/1500km.. I weight 200lbs and ride 99% xc trails with no major jumps/drops..
Will keep others up to date on the process with them.
It seems my 062 has a small crack. http://imgur.com/gallery/NZiPN the first picture shows the first cracking i noticed. The second picture shows a small crack that i cant feel, however every 2 days it leaks out white stuff.. I asked workswell what to do.. they said ride it harder to see if it is a paint crack or a structural crack. I have since ridden it 500km standing more and mashing it as much as I can.. I really can't say if it has gotten any larger, but we will see since I have only had my frame for 1 year/1500km.. I weight 200lbs and ride 99% xc trails with no major jumps/drops..
Will keep others up to date on the process with them.
X9 and X0 cranks both work fine. 2 questions though. 1) Does the power meter add thickness to the crankarm? 2) what is the q-factor of the crankset?
Thanks for your answer.
1) The powermeter does add thickness to the crankarm. Should be around 6-7 mm on the inside of the crankarm.
2) The Q-Factor of the X0 crankset is 168mm. The X9 crankset has 171 mm. As I use X0 (right) und X9 (left) I end up with 170 mm. (with a little error in the measurement maybe..)
Thanks for your answer.
1) The powermeter does add thickness to the crankarm. Should be around 6-7 mm on the inside of the crankarm.
2) The Q-Factor of the X0 crankset is 168mm. The X9 crankset has 171 mm. As I use X0 (right) und X9 (left) I end up with 170 mm. (with a little error in the measurement maybe..)
With the wider q-factor cranks, you should be all set. I can measure the clearance when I get home on Sunday. If you go with the BSA threaded BB, you can put a spacer under the non drive side cup to help a bit too. I run a spacer of sorts (chain guide) under the drive side and everything still clears with plenty of room.
It seems my 062 has a small crack. http://imgur.com/gallery/NZiPN the first picture shows the first cracking i noticed. The second picture shows a small crack that i cant feel, however every 2 days it leaks out white stuff.. I asked workswell what to do.. they said ride it harder to see if it is a paint crack or a structural crack. I have since ridden it 500km standing more and mashing it as much as I can.. I really can't say if it has gotten any larger, but we will see since I have only had my frame for 1 year/1500km.. I weight 200lbs and ride 99% xc trails with no major jumps/drops..
Will keep others up to date on the process with them.
Terrible experience with Candy Wang on Aliexpress.
20 days from the order and they refuse to ship the frame.
Be aware.
After reading that, I would say their responses are totally unacceptable and I would never order from them in the future.
the beast is complete
some small dramas;
cable routing was a major pain in the ass and I didn't realise i ordered remote lockout forks!
I must have thrown out the lever with the box :(
(https://s13.postimg.org/9fpzkatfr/IMG_20161201_082028.jpg)
(https://s11.postimg.org/d7adytnub/IMG_20161201_082032.jpg)
In a couple of weeks I will shorten the steerer (once I figure out how high i want my bars)
Those forks didn't come with a lockout, even though the description said they did. I ordered the same ones, and then nothing came with the forks. I wrote CRC and they gave me an $80 canadian funds discount on top of their cheap price, so I only paid $250 canadian for them.. Those remotes are pricey though.
KS Lev makes one in 27.2
Can this frame handle internal cabling for the dropper?
If you run a 1x drive train, there are enough holes.
By hijacking one of the derailleur cabling.
BSA is generally a closed aluminium shell and you won't be able to guide the hose from the down tube, up to the seat tube around the BB with your fingers.
I´m looking for this frame but a dont know what size fit me better. With a 81.5cm leg inseam and 1.78cm height, 17" or 18.5"?
Greetings
I´m looking for this frame but a dont know what size fit me better. With a 81.5cm leg inseam and 1.78cm height, 17" or 18.5"?
Greetings
years ago I had a 17" frame and broken in the seat clamp zone after 3000km (Marin Team Issue) but I dont know caused the seat post, use a 27.5 wheels in a 26" frame or a material fatigue. if I choose the 18.5" I need a 80 or 90mm stem I think.
I do not buy expensive headsets anymore, it is waste of money, they all rust in the end( I tried Cane creek for instance ).Exactly what I do. The expensive one maybe last a little bit longer, but not that much to justify the price difference.
Instead I buy cheap ones on aliexpress for about $12-15, which are the same more or less we get with our new frames.
And change them when they do not work well anymore( often the bottom bearing fails first ).
I do not buy expensive headsets anymore, it is waste of money, they all rust in the end( I tried Cane creek for instance ).Exactly what I do. The expensive one maybe last a little bit longer, but not that much to justify the price difference.
Instead I buy cheap ones on aliexpress for about $12-15, which are the same more or less we get with our new frames.
And change them when they do not work well anymore( often the bottom bearing fails first ).
Recently I bought a couple of these ones for $10/each: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Road-Bike-Headset-1-1-8-1-1-2-Top-Cap-MTB-Tapered-Headset-Spacer-Integrated/32758312564.html
I recommend this shop, very good communications with Tang Zhilin.
Very good news!
Candy just removed all the doubts we may have had recently about Workswell :)
Very good news!
Candy just removed all the doubts we may have had recently about Workswell :)
Lol...maybe the mods deleting a few of her spam threads helped her along in the "right direction. ;D8)
Now i discovered i have the classic seatpost creak :-\ Took that out, cleaned the frame (as much as i could reach) the seatpost and put it back together with carbon assembly paste. It is much quieter but still makes a little noise. I could chase this around forever (as i know this is a common problem with carbon frames and posts) but as long as it doesn't get any worse i'm sure i won't hear a thing on the trail (i hope).
If you're seat clamp is facing the front...try turning it around so that the bolt is pointing towards the front of the bike. It worked for me.
Nice ride! Is there still space for larger tire? How wide rims you have? Have the 27.5+ effect to geo or did the bb drop much?
The weight im aiming at is around 7,7kg 8)
I hope that the frame will weight MAX 1200g with headset.. if so, i will hit my target easy
I'm running mine with a 120mm SID now and I have no complaints. I upped the fork from 100 to 120 last winter so there were no good "back to back" rides to compare the two. I can say that I love how the bike rides and I hope that it lasts. I'm not sure what I would go with if it fails. Trek Procaliber, Transition Vanquish, or the CS-496 built as a standard 29er are all on my list.
That's a similar issue I'm dealing with. I changed the crankset, pedals, etc and it did not go away. I'm thinking it could be from where the metal BB insert meets the carbon frame.
My BB shell is now creaking, too... I contacted Workswell and they offered me to send me a new BB shell and some glue.With workswell customer has to repair his frame by itself? Do they sent you carbon sheet and resin if frame breaks?
That's a similar issue I'm dealing with. I changed the crankset, pedals, etc and it did not go away. I'm thinking it could be from where the metal BB insert meets the carbon frame.
Hi, do you still ride the frame/have the problem?
My BB shell is now creaking, too... I contacted Workswell and they offered me to send me a new BB shell and some glue. But I'm sure anyway that taking out the aluminum insert will damage the frame irreversible.
I'm still a bit confused about these. BB standards. My crank is a shimano fc m8000 single 34T chainring, what BB type of the frame will I specify?
Thanks! Another question: would a 6" steerer tube work with the workswell 062?
I'm planning on a 15.5 small size.. I bought a Fox 32 SC from ebay but the steerer tube is already cut to 6".
Another question, please bear with me. Will my m8000 single chainring 34T crankset fit in this frame?
Another question, please bear with me. Will my m8000 single chainring 34T crankset fit in this frame?
Search through this thread, I'm sure someone has posted about it.
Hello
At monday when I wash my bike, I found that cracked on the top tube!
Game over :-X :-[
(http://www.clanload.com.br/images/TD0gv.png)
(http://www.clanload.com.br/images/t0kY5.png)
... don't worry , it won't broken ...
In my experience, this is a general thing with Chinese retailers, not limited to Workswell. They seem to think that saying "don't worry" will reassure the customer. What they don't realize is that for the customer to believe in it requires a certain degree of trust, which they in most cases have not earned.... don't worry , it won't broken ...
This is so Workswell...
Here is the one I put on all my bikes: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Bicycle-Accessories-headset-1-1-8-1-1-2-for-headset-spacer-bicycle-headset-top-cap/32786785084.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4d004cL9
Even if you prefer something more exclusive, you can find the dimensions on that page.
It's possible that its the top "cosmetic" layer that cracked. You can try taking a coin and tap along the tube thats cracked and see if the sound changes. The cracked portion of the frame should have a more dull sound than the area around it that's not cracked.
HelloThat's not what cracked carbon looks like. That's where the two sides of the mould come together. These guys just didn't sand it down as nice as they should have before painting it.
At monday when I wash my bike, I found that cracked on the top tube!
Game over :-X :-[
(http://www.clanload.com.br/images/TD0gv.png)
(http://www.clanload.com.br/images/t0kY5.png)
That's not what cracked carbon looks like. That's where the two sides of the mould come together. These guys just didn't sand it down as nice as they should have before painting it.
I bend my derailleur hanger and need a replacement I contact workswell but seems to be out of stock for the moment and they need to "produce" they tell me.Did somebody knows of a replacement I can use on this frame?
Thanks for reply so quick I'm in Puerto Rico and the one I need is the thru axle.I bend my derailleur hanger and need a replacement I contact workswell but seems to be out of stock for the moment and they need to "produce" they tell me.Did somebody knows of a replacement I can use on this frame?
Where are you located? I have spare derailleur hangers. QR or Thru Axle?
They make it easy for us, alternate search page here https://derailleurhanger.com/alternate-search
I find them on aliexpress. The geometry of this frame is looks OK for me. I will check the quality of this frame, but it's look OK on users photos.
I receive this frame few days ago.
First impression:
- the bottom bracket holes is not perfectly rounded, but I don'y have any issue when I use BB press to install BB92 shells.
- holes for the cable/hose is very sharp inside frame. This can damage the the hose.
- building quality and stiffness is perfect (excluding previous 2 points)
- I use Continental Race King 2 2.2 and have very big clearance between frame and wheel
- after 100km I can say, that this frame is more predictive than M062
More ...
- the bottom bracket holes is not perfectly rounded, but I don'y have any issue when I use BB press to install BB92 shells.This is where mine faulted, I did put a BBInfinite inside, but the frame didn't like it, and at some point developed a play making the BBInfinite unusable.
- holes for the cable/hose is very sharp inside frame. This can damage the the hose.Hose will damage the carbon before themselves I think
- after 100km I can say, that this frame is more predictive than M062What do you mean predictive ? I did find the M062 was quite sharp to ride.
Hose will damage the carbon before themselves I thinkI hope I will can use this frame after that :)
What do you mean predictiveWhen I use M062 bike sometimes I feel that I fight with the bike and I must focus to hold handlebar strait. Especially when I climbing. I use "short" stem 7cm. Currently I notice the turning it's easier and more smooth (this is my feeling only - I can't measure).
When I use M062 bike sometimes I fill that I fight with the bike and I must focus to hold handlebar strait. Especially when I climbing. I use "short" stem 7cm. Currently I notice the turning it's easier and more smooth (this is my feeling only - I can't measure).Thanks !
Ad. 1 - I use oval 34T
Ad. 2. I ordered with ball bearings (was send me as a gift)