Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29er => Topic started by: carbonazza on December 18, 2015, 06:32:58 PM
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First of all some picture of the new beast 8)
I wanted it fluo green or yellow, but didn't want to deal again with the hassle of the Belgian customs, so it ended again all black.
(http://i.imgur.com/XrgoxPm.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/YfE6N4m.jpg)
As many others here, dealing with Peter for this frame was a pleasure.
And luckily he had it in stock.
I took most parts from the 256:
- Lefty( freshly back from a warranty repair, the bottom piston was scratched/toast)
- 30mm carbon wheels, with a rear DT swiss axle
- XX1 cassette, this was my second and probably the last. Even with a new free hub, Shimano's are much cheaper
- XTR rear derailleur and shifter
- KMC X11 SL chain, as it was new, I reused it
- Hope Evo E4 brakes with KCNC Razor Rotors
- Crank brothers pedals
- my beloved "aliexpress" carbon seat
- stem and bar that came with my 256
Unfortunately the bottom bracket was only available in BB92 and the seatpost diameter is 27.2, not what I had previously.
- I got a discounted Procraft seatpost from a shop here.
- A carbon seat clamp from aliexpress
- And had my "carpe diem" moment for the crankset and felt for a Next SL
- An Absolute black oval of 34
It weights a nice 8.6Kg( 19 lbs ) with pedals and tire sealant.
Here are some random impressions from the build and my first rides with it:
- The frame is clearly stiffer than the 256.
I was used to feel a little flex when sitting just before riding. Here nothing, it is hard as a bench.
This probably comes from a much stronger rear triangle
Well, it is strange. When hammering the pedals or cornering it feels definitely stiffer, and do not forgive when you hit bigger bumps
(http://i.imgur.com/Wv2lHMw.jpg)
But at the same time, the 27.2mm seatpost is kind of elastic, and eats the small bumps
For instance making our awful Belgian paved roads, all of a sudden, much more comfortable.
Although, it took me a couple of rides to be used to this strange new floating feeling.
(http://i.imgur.com/hpZCi5o.jpg?1)
- The oval ring, is something I would suggest all 1X riders to try.
It is not a very expensive test and it can make a big difference(it did for me)
Especially on steep climbs or when you push hard.
As stated by Marcin from Absolute black, it definitely gives you an unfair advantage over your friends
On the 256, I started with a 28 XX1, then moved to a 30.
Then I tried the 32 oval, it was a revelation.
But then the 4 smaller sprockets of the XX1 cassette were toast after just a year( I'll go Shimano after this one ).
So I was definitely too small in front. And jumped directly to an oval 34(an "ovality" of 32/36)
I clearly suffer more on some climbs, but I use the whole cassette evenly, and can even challenge some roadies now.
Just have a look at the design of the BB30 ring: http://www.absoluteblack.cc/sram-oval-bb30.html (http://www.absoluteblack.cc/sram-oval-bb30.html)
For me it is an engineering work of art. The one I took off my 256, decorates my desk now :)
(http://i.imgur.com/kWFnAQb.jpg)
- The frame arrived in perfect state, well packed and protected.
The cable stops looks more finished than the 256.
With various options to nicely plug the unused holes.
Sadly the rear brake entry is still a simple and quite ugly hole in the frame.
The internal routing was dead easy for the rear brake.
For the derailleur, the inner hose looked well done, so I decided to try it(no frame drilling this time)
It was very easy to route as well.
Unfortunately the cable enters the frame on the right, and it makes a rather ugly curve, an need a sticker to protect the frame.
(http://i.imgur.com/KHq9tiI.jpg?1)
Hopefully it will stand the mud I live in most of the year( I added some teflon at the cable end ).
If not, I will go again full hosing, but it will probably be a pain to drill and route.
And finally some minor issues:
- The drop out on the derailleur is different, there is no more an option to put a headless screw to tighten the nut
And the axle seems 5mm too short, not coming flush with the nut. Not sure what I will do, but my rear-axle-peace-of-mind is gone.
- The cable stop for the front derailleur is ugly and riveted( can't be removed easily ).
(http://i.imgur.com/nainr42.jpg)
- The headtube is 5mm shorter, making the lefty assembly less compact than on my 256
(http://i.imgur.com/lRGjc5L.jpg)
A couple more pictures before leaving:
(http://i.imgur.com/n8q7L6h.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/eATEHIK.jpg)
Sorry my ex-256 colleagues :P, but I definitely feels it as an upgrade.
It makes a more racy/radical bike.
The 256 was already great and sharp, but this one is some steps higher.
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Sweet ass build! This will be good that we get a direct comparison between the 256 and 041.. seems initial impressions favor the 041. Interested to hear your thoughts comparing the two as you get more trail time with the new beast
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Great looking build! 8)
The lines of the 041 are starting to grow on me.
Man...I'd love me some Lefty.
Question on the Lefty. Is there a Lefty where the two crowns are adjustable in height? I've seen some that look like you can. I ask that is because if I mount the stem above the upper crown...the bar will be too high. I already run a slammed Syntace Flatforce. I'll have to mount the stem under the upper crown. I've seen some people run it that way...but don't really know which Lefty or what adapter they used to mount it. ???
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Really liking the 041SL! If anything ever happened to my 256 I would do the same as you.
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@RS VR6, The Lefty 2 comes with 3 different distances between clamps (100, 113 and 126, but not adjustable)
http://eighty-aid.com/sites/default/files/lefty%202.0_EN_0.pdf
And there are XL Lefty forks, that have 163mm between the clamps.
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Very nice build. I am on the fence about upgrading to the 041 and Lefty/RS-1 this next year or trying a Specialized Epic Carbon. Either path will be a lot of money. :( You make a very convincing case for the 041, but new seat post, crank, BB, and fork will be expensive; that pushes me towards the Epic so I could have both hardtail and a FS bikes in my fleet.
I am curious about how you determined your rear cassette was worn out. Mine shows wear, but it still shifts crisp and with no noises. I've got thousands upon thousands of mines on it at this point including many races and century rides (no relubes). Could our riding conditions explain the difference? Is mine worn and I simply do not realize (there appears to be no ill-effects)? They are expensive so I understand your hesitation to replace. I haven't even changed my chain yet. I did need a new front sprocket due to extreme wear and I went Absolute Black Oval (which I agree with your assessment on their product and will try a 34T very soon).
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The chain was jumping teeth from the 4 smaller sprockets when pushing.
Something you would definitely feel/hear. But it was still fine on the 7 bigger sprockets.
Putting a new chain didn't improve.
Visually, the cassette still looked good.
I contacted the seller( bike24.com ) send them a picture, and tried to get some warranty.
They told me it was worn out. And that many riders had the same issue, depending on how they cared about it...
I explained them I was cleaning/lubing the chain after each ride, and changed 3 times the chain. To no avail.
When I got the new cassette, I just swapped.
With the same chain, derailleur settings, etc. The problem disappeared immediately.
You are very lucky to have that mileage, with a single chain and cassette.
May be it is the mud. Or I may do something very wrong.
My upgrade was expensive indeed. But the business was good this year.
If my 256 was still fine, I could go for the Epic too.
Well... after a road bike, and may be a trial bike :)
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@RS VR6, The Lefty 2 comes with 3 different distances between clamps (100, 113 and 126, but not adjustable)
http://eighty-aid.com/sites/default/files/lefty%202.0_EN_0.pdf
And there are XL Lefty forks, that have 163mm between the clamps.
Thanks! I'll check those out. :)
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It's a nice build!
Got the same oval ring (but in 32), and it works flawless. Might need a 34 as well for the flat parts on hard forest ground. Does that fit on a 256sl?
The 41 might be stiffer, think I like the looks of the 256 better. Lefty is awesome though :)
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I can only say that Garbaruk 34T oval fits on 256 but very narrowly, AB ring is almost the same
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Got the same oval ring (but in 32), and it works flawless. Might need a 34 as well for the flat parts on hard forest ground. Does that fit on a 256sl?
I have an AB 34 tooth oval direct mount ring for the RaceFace NextSL cranks on my 256 and it fits nicely.
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Thnx, an update I might consider when I notice to much wear on the smallest cogs in the back :)
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@cnasta, I was riding an AB 34T with my 256 without issue.
It was the one for SRAM BB30 I referred above http://www.absoluteblack.cc/sram-oval-bb30.html
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Very nice build. I am on the fence about upgrading to the 041 and Lefty/RS-1 this next year or trying a Specialized Epic Carbon. Either path will be a lot of money. :( You make a very convincing case for the 041, but new seat post, crank, BB, and fork will be expensive; that pushes me towards the Epic so I could have both hardtail and a FS bikes in my fleet.
Re-reading posts on the 041 and I noticed I missed this. If I had to choose between an Epic Carbon and just about anything, I'd be choosing the Epic.
Still, looks like we're going to be getting an 041 for my wife, pretty stoked to get that build happening!
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If you find your gear cable clogging up, before drilling out your frame, you could try these:
http://www.wiggle.com.au/transfil-flying-snake-gear-cable-set/
They come with a liner that goes between the inner and outer cables, and completely seals the inner cable from mud and water. I have then on a few bikes, included my road bike which has internal routing, and they work well.
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If you find your gear cable clogging up, before drilling out your frame, you could try these:
http://www.wiggle.com.au/transfil-flying-snake-gear-cable-set/
They come with a liner that goes between the inner and outer cables, and completely seals the inner cable from mud and water. I have then on a few bikes, included my road bike which has internal routing, and they work well.
I haven't used that specific brand, but I've used Gore, which is very similar, offering the plastic tube from shifter to derailleur. Worked well, especially since it was teflon coated cable inside teflon tubing, but I found that it would still wear through if the cable entrance/exit wasn't perfect, and then you'd be in the same spot. The stuff you link is not bad, $28 for a set, but the Gore stuff was ridiculously expensive, about twice that last that I looked. I've also used Nokon (because weight weenie) and the liner tubing is much more durable, but that's even more expensive, and ultimately I didn't think it was that great. One thing it is good for, and I still use it for, is exceptionally weird cable routing - somewhere where it makes tight bends. It does that very well. I've tried the Jagwire aluminum sectional housing, I tried someone else's aluminum sectional housing, I've tried a whole bunch of different shit... but ultimately I found that plain stainless steel cable with full run of Jagwire or Shimano housing is the best combination of price and performance. I found with the pricey shit, I resisted replacing it when it should have been because pricey - but with the basic stuff, if it hesistates a little in a shift, I swap out cables and housing and don't blink an eye.
Having shop lengths of housing and buying cables in bulk helps there, too.
Full run housing is one decidedly counter weight-weenie thing that I do in almost all situations. The wife's bike doesn't have it, but I've been considering it. Only problem is that's a non-reversible change.
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I've used gore as well - the original stuff, when it first came out. I think the liner on the Transfil set is more durable, as I found it used to kink more easily on the Gore set.
I'm not saying its better than running full length housing, but sometimes that isn't really an option.
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I've run Gore before. You have to be careful when you cut the cable. If you' don't use care when cutting it...the lining on the cable can fray.
I really like the Nokon housing. It can bend where a normal housing would kink. Only drawback is that they can creak on the front portion of the bike. At least mine do...on both bikes. ;D
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A month or so ago, when washing the bike after a ride I noticed a crack at the back of the seat tube.
(http://i.imgur.com/UpMC0G6.jpg)
I contacted Peter that told me to bravely cut out the cracked part like this:
(http://i.imgur.com/ym38wZD.png)
Which I did... If you wonder, yes it hurts doing this :-\
I was quite surprised to see the top and bottom parts of the seat tube not being the same piece.
I sent the piece by post, Peter then sent it to his factory.
And now I'm waiting, not sure what, but it takes a veeeery long time to get news.
While my 256 breakage was due to a stupid fall.
This time, there was no fall or crazy things involved.
Just normal XC rides. The frame was still mint :(
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Damn, that's not so nice! Strange the seat tube isn't made out one of the same piece.
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Wow... the part of the 041 that I deemed to be my favorite part of the frame looks to be turning out to be the biggest issue on the frame. Granted, that conclusion is based on two datapoints, but still... :D
You've got a bunch of post outside the frame - do you know if the post extends down to the broken area? In other words - how much post was inside the frame? I wouldn't think the leverage of a long post inserted only a short amount would cause that problem - honestly I have no idea what WOULD cause that problem. That's a strange place for a crack to happen.
Keep us posted on your results... sorry to hear it!
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The seatpost was a bit more than 10cm inside( exactly at the limit mark given by ProCraft )
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Yikes! Sorry to hear. :( I was considering the 041...this is giving me 2nd thoughts.
Looking at the geometry, does the 10cm insert allow it to catch the top edge of the top tube, or are you just above it? Wondering if there was additional stress on the seat tube without the extra seat post/tube overlap length. Problem is, if you drop it further, you're compromising your riding position...and you were within the tolerance.
Please keep us posted.
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The seatpost was a bit more than 10cm inside( exactly at the limit mark given by ProCraft )
So does that line up above or below the cracked area? Looking at the photos, it's hard to tell - looks like it should be right around there.
Still doubt that has anything to do with the cracking... but just something I thought might maybe possibly on the outside chance have contributed.
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I guess the reinforcement between the top and seat tube is made for that.
And not a handle to carry the bike :)
One other thing I noticed when cutting it.
The below part of the seatpost had some delaminated carbon fiber inside.
Not sure if it was due to a defect or me cutting it with the saw.
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I must have missed this thread update. Could it be the result of an exterior impact from a rock?
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Peter replied me few weeks ago, the factory concluded on a frame defect.
A replacement frame should arrive.
Today I even noticed another delamination inside the bottom bracket shell on one side.
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Lol...seems like the customers are also the product testers. ;D
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Did you take any pictures of the frame after you cut it? Would love to see them.
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Here are some pictures. Let me know if you'd like to see some parts in particular.
Beware, it hurts !-)
(http://i.imgur.com/jNC4Jvt.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/41yUNQW.jpg)
Here is the drive side, with a layer that goes out.
(http://i.imgur.com/3A6x0Lc.jpg)
And here is the bottom of the seat tube.
Where you may see some carbon fibers going out too. But this is maybe due to the saw.
(http://i.imgur.com/Q4ZjRAo.jpg)
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I'll make refresh here:
1. Do you know what tires can be fitted into this frame?
2. Did you have your frame replaced without issues?
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1. I ride thin tires, 2.1 or 2.25.
A 2.35 could fit, but it depends on the rim width.
Do you know the width of the rim/tire combo you'd like to put?
2. Yes, the replacement arrived without any surprise or issues. The warranty from Peter is real.
It was a first batch problem it seems. After ~5000Km of hard rides, the replacement frame is still going strong.
I love this frame, it is the stiffest I tried( direct from China or some branded bikes ), and coupled with the Lauf fork, it is a bomb :)
If I would crash it today, I would probably order another one.
Just to temper. This can be very personal obviously.
For instance the wife of cmh who rides strong, tried one, and wasn't happy at all from the frame:
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,848.0.html