Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29er => Topic started by: karstenhorn on January 14, 2016, 07:29:59 PM
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Hello all
First of all thanks for providing this huge amount of good info, making it so much easier to choose a good Chinese vendor when in marked for a new MTB. I have just ordered a CS-036 from Peter and I'm presently collecting the few bits and pieces that I'm missing for this build. As I will use a 2 x 10 SRAM X9/X0 gear group, I would like to get a good suggestion of a front dérailleur that will fit the frame? There are so many different 2 x 10 shifters from SRAM and I'm unsure witch one that will fit the frame. Also, I have a tapered Manitou Tower fork and was looking for some advice on a quality headset that will fit.
Thanks in advance and kind regards from Denmark
Karsten
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I don't run a front derailleur on my 036. For the headset, the NECO headset is pretty good and very inexpensive from Peter. If your order has not shipped yet, maybe you can get Peter to add it to your order. Another option that is reasonably priced is the Cane Creek headsets. I don't remember exactly what size to order though.
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Some info about the headset: http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,506.msg9118.html#msg9118
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Thanks, I will contact Peter regarding the headset - No one that do have a 036 with a front shifter to share experience ?
Thanks
Karsten
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I think you need a direct mount front derailleur like the E-type (E2) of Shimano. Be aware, there're two models (S2 and S3). I don't have a 036, but my 256 has these types and on the picture ot hte 036 it looks like the same system. In my topic about my IP-256 there's some information about these two models....
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I think you need a direct mount front derailleur like the E-type (E2) of Shimano. Be aware, there're two models (S2 and S3). I don't have a 036, but my 256 has these types and on the picture ot hte 036 it looks like the same system. In my topic about my IP-256 there's some information about these two models....
Thanks for your feedback, it is indeed very much appreciated. I do find it a little strange that Peter is selling a frame and don't know what FD's that will fit. Did you get more experience using the SRAM FD? I mean, with the lining of the cable on the Shimano E2 type, it looks like a matter of time before I will either break the inner cable or it will cut through the frame exit :( I do plan on a X0/X9 setup, so a SRAM FD will be perfect.
Yet again thanks
Karsten
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I got my frame last Monday and starting to put it together. First issue is the bolts holding the rear shock(Manitou), I do have the shims sorted out but where on eart do I find the bolts holding the shock ?
I need 1 x 34 mm long and 1 x 40 mm long - Both 8 mm outside diameter.
Thanks
Karsten
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Btw here is a few random pictures of today's build, stem/handlebar and rims are interim until I get my permanent stuff.
As you all can see, I got "inspired" by somebody else colour scheme here 8)
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/13B35B64-FC9B-496B-A62D-21F521C32350_zpsdl0yw8vf.jpg)
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/98D8679D-7F14-4643-AD59-7C2545174AE5_zpskujavwan.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/98D8679D-7F14-4643-AD59-7C2545174AE5_zpskujavwan.jpg.html)
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/3A18F519-8B8F-4FC8-B5E6-F90E38020103_zpsxyg1agnr.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/3A18F519-8B8F-4FC8-B5E6-F90E38020103_zpsxyg1agnr.jpg.html)
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/789A89BD-C104-4F12-834F-889DBDC15E28_zpsr74smsnb.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/789A89BD-C104-4F12-834F-889DBDC15E28_zpsr74smsnb.jpg.html)
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/C187747E-CF34-44F6-82F8-E9953EADF044_zpsfdsv2ea8.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/C187747E-CF34-44F6-82F8-E9953EADF044_zpsfdsv2ea8.jpg.html)
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/948C156B-131A-4471-8C76-FFD8849CB3F4_zpsw8e1vfxd.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/948C156B-131A-4471-8C76-FFD8849CB3F4_zpsw8e1vfxd.jpg.html)
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/9C99E0F7-7F10-48A6-9591-1F26EA835DE3_zpsyvh21die.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/9C99E0F7-7F10-48A6-9591-1F26EA835DE3_zpsyvh21die.jpg.html)
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/9DC9873F-0499-43BB-958E-921A46967985_zpspn0qvblp.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/9DC9873F-0499-43BB-958E-921A46967985_zpspn0qvblp.jpg.html)
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/D346CE6C-D91D-41B6-833F-22737B053A23_zpssiwaykf9.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/D346CE6C-D91D-41B6-833F-22737B053A23_zpssiwaykf9.jpg.html)
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/25B0EFB7-4FA6-4236-8F9D-CB72DF185C54_zpsbbvqadhc.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/25B0EFB7-4FA6-4236-8F9D-CB72DF185C54_zpsbbvqadhc.jpg.html)
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/A4071499-E815-42C6-80A8-FB105236AE39_zps0gmnfalu.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/A4071499-E815-42C6-80A8-FB105236AE39_zps0gmnfalu.jpg.html)
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Looking very nice! Yes, your color scheme looks very familiar :). Except I have white wheels.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v193/S2k_Dude/Carbon%20FS%2029er/2807659d-6b15-4d5d-badc-e119616cab8e.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/S2k_Dude/media/Carbon%20FS%2029er/2807659d-6b15-4d5d-badc-e119616cab8e.jpg.html)
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Yes, black and white..... Yin and yang.... I will eventually end up with 3K glossy rims
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If you get 3K glossy rims, then it will look like this ;D.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v193/S2k_Dude/Carbon%20FS%2029er/Carbon_FS_vs_HT-2.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/S2k_Dude/media/Carbon%20FS%2029er/Carbon_FS_vs_HT-2.jpg.html)
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If you get 3K glossy rims, then it will look like this ;D.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v193/S2k_Dude/Carbon%20FS%2029er/Carbon_FS_vs_HT-2.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/S2k_Dude/media/Carbon%20FS%2029er/Carbon_FS_vs_HT-2.jpg.html)
Funny how you get used to the 42t cassette, then I see a 11-36 10spd and I'm like "OMG how do you climb with that?"... but before that it was the 32t cassette.. all the way back to my first MTB with an 11-28 7 speed - that's the range you see on road bikes now, and with the same 110mm BCD on the cranks!
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The last couple of days I have been "fighting" my front dérailleur, no matter what I did the chain would jump off the big cog when shifting up. The dérailleur was adjusted exactly to specs as stated by SRAM but no matter what I did, every third shift it would end up like this:
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/61D4A7FE-4E3D-41F4-A241-B584E728099A_zpsjwwlqlik.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/61D4A7FE-4E3D-41F4-A241-B584E728099A_zpsjwwlqlik.jpg.html)
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/46C15B34-8085-45C5-B236-0D3CB03573E6_zpslv2bzcss.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/46C15B34-8085-45C5-B236-0D3CB03573E6_zpslv2bzcss.jpg.html)
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/2EC8B6A1-50CE-4288-ACF9-FF2713A6706D_zpshoocxxmh.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/2EC8B6A1-50CE-4288-ACF9-FF2713A6706D_zpshoocxxmh.jpg.html)
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/217DACC5-EA2D-4414-B3C5-8FF7360D9AF0_zpss3gykh2b.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/217DACC5-EA2D-4414-B3C5-8FF7360D9AF0_zpss3gykh2b.jpg.html)
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/4E2BB108-12B6-47BE-B2B4-74C8B482D750_zpsmaujgnu2.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/4E2BB108-12B6-47BE-B2B4-74C8B482D750_zpsmaujgnu2.jpg.html)
Right now its a X9 groupset with a FSA Comet 386 chainset and a SRAM 1031 chain, all brand new stuff and only the X9 front dérailleur bought separately. As stated above, no matter what I did it would throw off the chain almost every time I shifted up and as I'm a big 50+ guy (220 pounds) the 1 x 11 setup is not an option :D
Well well, today I took an old worn Shimano 10 speed chain for the hell of it and bingo, it now shifts perfectly and no issues at all. I guess that I will stick to Shimano chains in the future.......
BTW this front front dérailleur fits perfectly on an CS-036 from Peter(not too impressed by the fact that I could not get any help from him what so ever) but if he reads along here he can advice future buyers if needed - front dérailleur:
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/17783F2D-8AC5-4577-9300-8F4AC5D90458_zpsvakl8fpd.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/17783F2D-8AC5-4577-9300-8F4AC5D90458_zpsvakl8fpd.jpg.html)
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Here is a few pictures of the bike as it stands today, I'm still awaiting my SRAM XX 2x10 groupset as well as my new Carbon wheels but could not resist putting another groupset on in order for a quick test ride tomorrow if weather allows here in Scandinavia - Pictures:
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/8AC00F30-0C63-4103-8DE7-947AAC8CECF0_zpsafxextre.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/8AC00F30-0C63-4103-8DE7-947AAC8CECF0_zpsafxextre.jpg.html)
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/D88EFC6A-F72F-4C33-8D55-1D6342CC0C3C_zpsl3tk0sti.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/D88EFC6A-F72F-4C33-8D55-1D6342CC0C3C_zpsl3tk0sti.jpg.html)
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/C5078CA3-CA43-4DF3-8915-07EF4D9E0042_zpsasnlvkbt.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/C5078CA3-CA43-4DF3-8915-07EF4D9E0042_zpsasnlvkbt.jpg.html)
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/FAA09FA1-3F9E-4287-819E-F836D926E11A_zpsrzls1cao.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/FAA09FA1-3F9E-4287-819E-F836D926E11A_zpsrzls1cao.jpg.html)
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/E3C8CF5A-64AE-42DC-85CA-959FC0DFFFA0_zpsibramrxt.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/E3C8CF5A-64AE-42DC-85CA-959FC0DFFFA0_zpsibramrxt.jpg.html)
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I wonder how the saddle rides. Cool build by the way!
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I'm not a small guy and run a 1x11 setup, after going to a 1x setup I've never looked back, I've not had a chain jump off the chainring, no annoying rubbing of the chain on the front derailleur, no shifting problems. I believe that a 1x setup will work for most people if you choose your chainring according to the trails you ride in your area. Admittedly SRAM's 1x11 setup was originally designed for racing, and because of that, they designed the front chainring to be changed out easily without the need to remove the cranks. I've ridden lots of trails, and all the standard setups, 3x9, 3x10, 2x10, 1x9 and now 1x11. By far my favorite setup has been 1x11. It gives me enough range, very fast shifts, and a level of reliability I have never known until now.
Happy to see you got your issues sorted out with the front derailleur, I would not have guessed that changing the chain would have fixed the problem. Reading your post initially I thought you did not have enough throw on the front derailleur, bad chain line, or a bad chainring but you have proved the problem was with the chain. Understanding why moving to a Shimano chain fixed the problem would be interesting to know.
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Honestly I can follow you regarding the 1x11 setup but I need a 42 back and a no bigger than 27 in the front to climb the long steep sandy hills around here and at the same time racing some fast Enduro sections with 30+ km/h - I cannot see how I could manage that without some crazy 120+ on the pedals :D
Regarding the chain issues, the chainrings are brand new same as the chain and the testing was done with the chain in a straight line in order to eliminate chainline issues. To be honest I did not even consider the chain itself but that was the only part that I had a spare one and it turned out to be a good idea, not too impressed with the SRAM combo to be honest.... I hope that XX will be better than X9 or I will change for a XTR setup.
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Unless you are doing the long steep sandy climbs and the fast enduro sections on the same ride, the 1x11 would still work, however, if that's the trails you have, I agree that you are one of the few that need a huge range of gearing. What drew me to a 1X setup is how much overlap there is on multi-chaingring setups. I had already moved from a 3x9 to a 1x9 setup and while it was more difficult to climb hills, it was doable and made me a better rider. I'm not quite a single speed guy but I can appreciate the simplicity.
On my ride last we had a guy running a 2x10 X9 setup and was having nothing but drivetrain issues. Next time I see him, I might mention to him to try replacing the SRAM chain with a Shimano XT chain.
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@Carbon_Dude:
what trails are you riding? I never rode 1x11 and I really should. But I doubt that I would be happy with 1x. (I'm rather light compared to size.)
Firstly, the range for the marathons I ride would probably not sufficient. If I chose a gear to climb 3000ft with steep sections I would not be able to keep up on the long descents.
Secondly, the gear jumps would be too big on sections with little speed change.
Still I need to try a 1x11 to see if my theory is correct.
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Not saying a 1x11 setup works for everyone, but many of the pros have switched to it. Here is one of my favorite trails that's just 15 min from where I live.
(http://www.bike198.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/chicopee-map.jpg)
This trail has a decent amount of elevation change, some good long climbs, and some fast sections with max speeds around 22-24mph. I think it's a great all around trail and it works well with my 1x11 (32T, 10-42) drivetrain.
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Unless you are doing the long steep sandy climbs and the fast enduro sections on the same ride, the 1x11 would still work, however, if that's the trails you have, I agree that you are one of the few that need a huge range of gearing. What drew me to a 1X setup is how much overlap there is on multi-chaingring setups. I had already moved from a 3x9 to a 1x9 setup and while it was more difficult to climb hills, it was doable and made me a better rider. I'm not quite a single speed guy but I can appreciate the simplicity.
On my ride last we had a guy running a 2x10 X9 setup and was having nothing but drivetrain issues. Next time I see him, I might mention to him to try replacing the SRAM chain with a Shimano XT chain.
Unfortunately you are correct, the local terrain here is a good combination of quite flat terrain with some very steep climbs up to 25%. As Denmark is very flat we do not have long climbs like you guys have but we still have trails that can keep my average pulse at 160+ and I'm 53 :D
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Hi Karsten
How do you like your 036 frame?
I'm looking at the same frame and will be buying one soon too from Peter.
Ps. Where in DK are you riding?
Best regards
Kim
DK :)
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Hello Kim
I'm located in the northern most part of Denmark(Jutland) and mainly riding in that area - I have yet to take the bike for a test ride as the weather have been really bad the last few days with snow, hail and rain. I don't want my first ride to be too muddy/wet.
I will give a good feedback here when I have something to share
Karsten
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cool , look like a dream bike. nice painting design either. :P
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I finally got around to take the 036 for the first testride yesterday, weather here in Scandinavia have been terrible and I was awaiting the last bits and pieces for my XX groupset. Anyway, it became a very short testride as my MTB shoes are hitting the seat stay :( My crankset is a Truativ XX 2 x 10 with a 166 wide Q-factor and my pedals are the CB Candy. I'm hitting quite hard especially on the right side and I have to force my shoes out in the cleats, making it very hard for my worn knees after even a very short ride. Do any of you have the same issues on the 036 frame ?
I'm now looking into longer spindles for my Candy's and apparently I can find a ultra long kit on eBay, problem is that I can only find them in Titanium and I'm afraid that I'm too heavy for Titanium - Any suggestions ?
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I've had no problems with my shoes hitting my seat stays on my -036, I am not sure how much clearance I have but I don't think I've ever brushed the frame with my shoes.
I assume you mean that you have a Q-factor of 168mm not 156mm, that would make a difference. Also, when I installed my SRAM GXP bottom bracket on my BSA threaded BB -036, I needed to add the included 2.5mm spacers to either side to compensate for the 68mm wide frame and move it out to 73mm.
You might be able to get a few millimeters of clearance just by adding a washer to your pedal spindle. Of course you want to still have a minimum thread engagement equal to the diameter of the shaft.
You may also pick up a millimeter or two by adjusting your cleats, or by changing to a different brand of clipless pedals.
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I've had no problems with my shoes hitting my seat stays on my -036, I am not sure how much clearance I have but I don't think I've ever brushed the frame with my shoes.
I assume you mean that you have a Q-factor of 168mm not 156mm, that would make a difference. Also, when I installed my BSA bottom bracket on my -036, I needed to add the included 2.5mm spacers to either side to compensate for the 68mm wide frame and move it out to 73mm.
You might be able to get a few millimeters of clearance just by adding a washer to your pedal spindle. Of course you want to still have a minimum thread engagement equal to the diameter of the shaft.
You may also pick up a millimeter or two by adjusting your cleats, or by changing to a different brand of clipless pedals.
On the SRAM/Truativ XX 2 x 10 speed GXP crankset the Q-factor is either 156 or 166 mm. On my set its stamped 166 mm at the sides of each arm. I have already tried with a small extra washer as well as mingling with the cleats but it is unfortunately not enough. I will need at least 5-7 mm more to stay clear. I either have the choice of finding a longer spindle for my Candy's or maybe another pedal system - However I love the Eggbeaters and would hate to change to another setup. Also, the "knee saver" adapter is a no-go as they move much too far out for my liking.
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I went on a longer ride today and I definitely have to do something with regards to rubbing, I have just ordered those:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161834958088?euid=98fe02d81c3040c99080b2d7e952281b&cp=1
Its either them or another click system :(
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Hope they work for you. How much extra clearance do the longer spindles provide?
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Around 10mm each, OEM are 95.5 mm long if I remember correctly.
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Around 10mm each, OEM are 95.5 mm long if I remember correctly.
Correct, Crank brothers do have two lengths, short 88 mm and normal 95.5 mm. On eBay one can find everything from ultra short to ultra long but only US produced product is the one I linked to. By reading around on the Internet you should stay away from the China produced Titanium as it is very weak and often poor quality. The one I'm linking to is claiming that their Titanium is stronger than what CB use them self and they do have lots of positive comments on MTBr forum. Basically you can turn your Eggbeaters 1,2 or 3 into Ti11 for a fraction of CB cost and have sub 200 gram pedals 8)
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I finally got around to take the 036 for the first testride yesterday, weather here in Scandinavia have been terrible and I was awaiting the last bits and pieces for my XX groupset. Anyway, it became a very short testride as my MTB shoes are hitting the seat stay :( My crankset is a Truativ XX 2 x 10 with a 166 wide Q-factor and my pedals are the CB Candy. I'm hitting quite hard especially on the right side and I have to force my shoes out in the cleats, making it very hard for my worn knees after even a very short ride. Do any of you have the same issues on the 036 frame ?
I'm now looking into longer spindles for my Candy's and apparently I can find a ultra long kit on eBay, problem is that I can only find them in Titanium and I'm afraid that I'm too heavy for Titanium - Any suggestions ?
Issue Solved with the new extra long spindles from the link I posted previously - Pictures:
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/67743E06-2604-44E4-9596-D4B0C510EDD7_zps0pq5w9h1.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/67743E06-2604-44E4-9596-D4B0C510EDD7_zps0pq5w9h1.jpg.html)
New spindle Q factor is around 9,7 mm higher and I do now have loads of space to move my feets around in the cleats without hitting the frame.
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/DFE9BDAD-96E0-4E90-87EF-9A6D82525398_zpskfq7wpkm.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/DFE9BDAD-96E0-4E90-87EF-9A6D82525398_zpskfq7wpkm.jpg.html)
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/3AC9E5AA-FD41-4811-80FD-D0E8290C5253_zpsmomyagny.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/3AC9E5AA-FD41-4811-80FD-D0E8290C5253_zpsmomyagny.jpg.html)
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/3E95E0A1-F69F-4959-9CD3-F4558B61CCAD_zpsnnigmcoq.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/3E95E0A1-F69F-4959-9CD3-F4558B61CCAD_zpsnnigmcoq.jpg.html)
Another big benefit is the weight savings between titanium and steel spindles, I do now have a set of Eggbeater Candy 1 that is 20 g lighter than a set of Candy TI 11 for around 1/5 of the cost. Seller claims that the titanium used is quite a bit stronger than the type Crankbrothers provide - Time will tell if they can stand up to my 200+ pounds :D
Kind regards
Karsten
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I had a CB Eggbeater spindle fail on my last year. They had a known issue with a stress concentration on the spindle shaft. You could see the sharp edge they had in the machining process. New replacement spindles from CB have a tapered section rather than a sharp step in that area now. I think I posted about this in one of my threads.
I was also looking into the Ti spindles on eBay when I had this issue, however I was reluctant due to them saying there is a weight limit on the Ti spindles. I'm also about your weight karstenhorn so I will be curious how well the new pedals perform.
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I had a CB Eggbeater spindle fail on my last year. They had a known issue with a stress concentration on the spindle shaft. You could see the sharp edge they had in the machining process. New replacement spindles from CB have a tapered section rather than a sharp step in that area now. I think I posted about this in one of my threads.
I was also looking into the Ti spindles on eBay when I had this issue, however I was reluctant due to them saying there is a weight limit on the Ti spindles. I'm also about your weight karstenhorn so I will be curious how well the new pedals perform.
"Titanium Spindles" placed a weight limit around 220 pounds(CB placed a 200 pounds weight limit on stock length ti spindles) on their extra long version as they claim to be using some special military grade Titanium much stronger than the ti version used by CB and it is a US based brand producing the product in USA. That being said, it can still break for sure and I have focus on the issue. The way I ride however will not put extreme stress on the part as I do not jump or riding very rough sections while standing. However, I am just around 220 pounds(6.3" and in good shape) even I'm 53 - I will give an update if they break :D
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I got my frame last Monday and starting to put it together. First issue is the bolts holding the rear shock(Manitou), I do have the shims sorted out but where on eart do I find the bolts holding the shock ?
I need 1 x 34 mm long and 1 x 40 mm long - Both 8 mm outside diameter.
Thanks
Karsten
Karsten,
Did your frame not come with the bolts to mount the shock to the frame? Did you end up needing to purchase them? Hope your bike is still running strong. I'm about to build up a 2x10 XX 036 so trying to figure out all the little parts I need to order.
-Midwest
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I got my frame last Monday and starting to put it together. First issue is the bolts holding the rear shock(Manitou), I do have the shims sorted out but where on eart do I find the bolts holding the shock ?
I need 1 x 34 mm long and 1 x 40 mm long - Both 8 mm outside diameter.
Thanks
Karsten
Karsten,
Did your frame not come with the bolts to mount the shock to the frame? Did you end up needing to purchase them? Hope your bike is still running strong. I'm about to build up a 2x10 XX 036 so trying to figure out all the little parts I need to order.
-Midwest
The bolts provided with the frame was around 4 mm too short and 0.3 mm under the 8.0 mm bushing diameter in my shock. They seemed of very low quality and I bought new ones before I took it for the first ride. I have similar issues with all the bushing bolts holding my chain stay together, causing a lot of flex.
Do yourself a favour and take everything apart and inspect/grease all part before first ride - My frame came dry at all joints from the vendor.
Karsten
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However, I am just around 220 pounds(6.3" and in good shape) even I'm 53 - I will give an update if they break :D
6'3" and 220lb and chasing a handful of grams... :o
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However, I am just around 220 pounds(6.3" and in good shape) even I'm 53 - I will give an update if they break :D
6'3" and 220lb and chasing a handful of grams... :o
Absolutely not................ I needed some longer axles in order for my shoes to clear the chain stay and TI was the only longer axles that I could find.................
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I finally got around to get my new wheels build and and installed on the bike. Rims are 30 mm hookless and is bought from a Hong Kong well trusted Ebay seller and I had the hubs already. Rear hub is Hope Pro 2 EVO and the front is the new Pro 4, spokes are Sapim Laser. My rims are not built to be light but stiff and strong for a heavy guy like me, test ride indicates that there is a significant change from my old heavy Marvic CrossRide almost 400 grams heavier.
A few pictures:
Rear wheel
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/CAE8469D-AD2D-479E-8E64-E24537A0D4B6_zpsdbyfjfm3.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/CAE8469D-AD2D-479E-8E64-E24537A0D4B6_zpsdbyfjfm3.jpg.html)
front wheel
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/42D085D4-D90A-419F-B40B-091E60843B1E_zps1ige04ar.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/42D085D4-D90A-419F-B40B-091E60843B1E_zps1ige04ar.jpg.html)
Rear hub
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/1028C33B-A295-45F3-BABD-448F9DECCA5F_zps4xsu7ndu.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/1028C33B-A295-45F3-BABD-448F9DECCA5F_zps4xsu7ndu.jpg.html)
Front hub
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/701D3A94-6BCD-431F-99AD-DAE09496030B_zps4grm4pzk.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/701D3A94-6BCD-431F-99AD-DAE09496030B_zps4grm4pzk.jpg.html)
30 mm hookless
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/246778B1-1B81-4C94-83F4-7D833EFA8BBF_zpsdcsot1cl.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/246778B1-1B81-4C94-83F4-7D833EFA8BBF_zpsdcsot1cl.jpg.html)
My local bike store who built the wheels were quite impressed by the quality of the rims and also quite surprised of the total cost
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/F376AACC-14BA-476D-8E7B-78CEAD25CA11_zpslwpgl1ba.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/F376AACC-14BA-476D-8E7B-78CEAD25CA11_zpslwpgl1ba.jpg.html)
Regards
Karsten
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Will you be running them tubeless?
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Will you be running them tubeless?
I have considered to try as I have never done that before. Our grounds here are not so hard at the tires and until now I have had about 1 puncture per year as an average so i'm not in a hurry. Especially when reading about all the hassle people have, I think that I will stick to my tubes for now.
Karsten
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I finally got around to get my new wheels build and and installed on the bike. Rims are 30 mm hookless and is bought from a Hong Kong well trusted Ebay seller and I had the hubs already. Rear hub is Hope Pro 2 EVO and the front is the new Pro 4, spokes are Sapim Laser. My rims are not built to be light but stiff and strong for a heavy guy like me, test ride indicates that there is a significant change from my old heavy Marvic CrossRide almost 400 grams heavier.
A few pictures:
Rear wheel
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/CAE8469D-AD2D-479E-8E64-E24537A0D4B6_zpsdbyfjfm3.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/CAE8469D-AD2D-479E-8E64-E24537A0D4B6_zpsdbyfjfm3.jpg.html)
front wheel
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/42D085D4-D90A-419F-B40B-091E60843B1E_zps1ige04ar.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/42D085D4-D90A-419F-B40B-091E60843B1E_zps1ige04ar.jpg.html)
Rear hub
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/1028C33B-A295-45F3-BABD-448F9DECCA5F_zps4xsu7ndu.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/1028C33B-A295-45F3-BABD-448F9DECCA5F_zps4xsu7ndu.jpg.html)
Front hub
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/701D3A94-6BCD-431F-99AD-DAE09496030B_zps4grm4pzk.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/701D3A94-6BCD-431F-99AD-DAE09496030B_zps4grm4pzk.jpg.html)
30 mm hookless
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/246778B1-1B81-4C94-83F4-7D833EFA8BBF_zpsdcsot1cl.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/246778B1-1B81-4C94-83F4-7D833EFA8BBF_zpsdcsot1cl.jpg.html)
My local bike store who built the wheels were quite impressed by the quality of the rims and also quite surprised of the total cost
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a419/karstenhorn/cycling/F376AACC-14BA-476D-8E7B-78CEAD25CA11_zpslwpgl1ba.jpg) (http://s1033.photobucket.com/user/karstenhorn/media/cycling/F376AACC-14BA-476D-8E7B-78CEAD25CA11_zpslwpgl1ba.jpg.html)
Regards
Karsten
What width and depth ? Looks like 30mm width and 23.5mm depth ? What's the inner width ?
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Its a 30 x 25 mm rim and the inner width I cannot remember
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Hello , I am new to this forum, I am Spanish , sorry for my english. I have a question , I have the fm- 036 frame and can not find the right measure of the upper bearing direction. I be that is 1 1/8 but the lid is lifted me , do not touch the quadro . It is as if the bearing was too high. M'he podiais say the exact size of the bearing?
Now I 've ridden this :
https://www.bike-components.de/en/Ritchey/Comp-Cartridge-Drop-In-IS42-28-6-Steuersatz-Oberteil-p41969/
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I'm using the headset that Peter from Carbon speed provided when I bought the frame from him. It is maybe not the lightest headset around but it fits perfectly with my fork. I suggest that you get in contact with Peter here at: petercycles@foxmail.com and I'm sure that he can help you out.
Karsten
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How did it go with the bolts in the rear?
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How did it go with the bolts in the rear?
I found some bushing bolts originally designed for the installation of a rear shock that fitted just perfectly diameter vice. They had to be shortened a bit but that was an easy task. The longer bolts reduced the flex in the rear triangle significantly and I'm sure that many of the 036's out there could benefit from this simple upgrade. All forces in the lower rear part of the chain stay connection is mainly applied to only one side of the connecting fork causing more flex and excessive wear in the end.
Karsten
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Seems like an easy fix. It is interesting if Peter/xmcarbonspeed also fixes this for new frames being sold.
Are you happy with the frame now?
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Seems like an easy fix. It is interesting if Peter/xmcarbonspeed also fixes this for new frames being sold.
Are you happy with the frame now?
I'm quite happy, however there is still a bit of flex in the chain stay area but I guess it is due to the design. I would not recommend this frame for heavy rough riding/big jumps etc.
Regarding quality control I have been told by Peter that there is only one length of bushing bolts so it all comes down to how the frame was built. The fact that there only exist one length of bolts tells me that no-one cares about quality control. In the end I guess it comes under the statement; "You get what you paid for" and for the money I spent on the frame, I'm happy about the outcome. Would I buy a FS China frame again the answer is a clear no, I would bite the dust and buy a known brand of better quality no matter that the cost would be 4 times higher.
Also, the seller could not even give me advice of for example what front dérailleurs that would fit my 036 frame - In the end that tells me that they don't know much about what they are selling and basically you are on your own when it comes to building the frame afterwards.
Karsten
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That dosen't sound good :(
I'm looking at the Pronghorn full suspension then, it's also a danish design 8)
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That dosen't sound good :(
I'm looking at the Pronghorn full suspension then, it's also a danish design 8)
Pronghorn have gotten some very good feedback here in Denmark and I'm sure that they are not far from international success, however I do not like the way that they locate the rear shock on top of the top tube but that's only my personal opinion. My next FS MTB frame will be a S-WORKS Stumpjumper FSR 29 - My other FS bike is an old Enduro FSR and I love the bike and are now using it for a a bit of downhill and stuff like this.
Don't rely only on my experience with Peter, lots of other people are very satisfied with him and the product/service they received. However when he started to call me a liar(I can document that he was wrong) I stopped the conversation right away and simply accepted my loss. Just recently I bought a road frame from DENGFU and got outstanding treatment and first class support after the purchase. Should I buy from China again, they will get my money for sure.
Karsten
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That dosen't sound good :(
I'm looking at the Pronghorn full suspension then, it's also a danish design 8)
Pronghorn have gotten some very good feedback here in Denmark and I'm sure that they are not far from international success, however I do not like the way that they locate the rear shock on top of the top tube but that's only my personal opinion. My next FS MTB frame will be a S-WORKS Stumpjumper FSR 29 - My other FS bike is an old Enduro FSR and I love the bike and are now using it for a a bit of downhill and stuff like this.
Karsten
I agree with you on that Pronghorn FS bike, putting the shock in that location appears wrong in my opinion. As you know, I am very happy with my SJ FSR Carbon 27.5+ frame and it's not even the S-Works model. In my experience, I think the Chinese hard tail frames are a better choice than the Chinese FS frames. Although, my -036 rode well for the 2 years I had it, and was about 1/4th the cost of something like an SJ S-Works frame. In the end though, I am happy I built the -036, it was a stepping stone to where I am now.
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Although, my -036 road well for the 2 years I had it, and was about 1/4th the cost of something like an SJ S-Works frame. In the end though, I am happy I built the -036, it was a stepping stone to where I am now.
I totally agree, I do still believe that the value for money I got when I bought my 036 was fair - Would I buy another Chinese FS bike ? That would be a clear no as they are not far enough in their development and they are not yet ready to provide the necessary quality control needed when selling a more complex product. After all it is not only the brand name causing the price to be 4 times higher, it is also a matter of comprehensive research and development. As I have a brand new SRAM XX groupset, I'm slowly waiting for the right S-WORKS offer and will simply move all my parts to the new frame. Only challenge will be my GXP BB but if no adapters can be found, I will sell my GXP chainset and buy another that will fit.
Karsten
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The bolts provided with the frame was around 4 mm too short and 0.3 mm under the 8.0 mm bushing diameter in my shock. They seemed of very low quality and I bought new ones before I took it for the first ride. I have similar issues with all the bushing bolts holding my chain stay together, causing a lot of flex.
Do yourself a favour and take everything apart and inspect/grease all part before first ride - My frame came dry at all joints from the vendor.
Karsten
4mm?! :o Jezuz! No, mine are only about 2.1mm too short and diameter is spot on. Nevertheless I'm myself still entertaining the idea of substituting them with Titanium ones (again Chinese :)). I asked one vendor and he mailed me pictures. Tolerances are ok. The diameter is 7.93-7.96mm. I'm not sure about buying longer ones and shortening them myself...
I actually wanted to ask about greasing of all the pivot joints though. What did you actually grease? You opened bearing seals? I'm obsessing about the joints and want to fix them before mounting all the components on.
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The bolts provided with the frame was around 4 mm too short and 0.3 mm under the 8.0 mm bushing diameter in my shock. They seemed of very low quality and I bought new ones before I took it for the first ride. I have similar issues with all the bushing bolts holding my chain stay together, causing a lot of flex.
Do yourself a favour and take everything apart and inspect/grease all part before first ride - My frame came dry at all joints from the vendor.
Karsten
Don't open a sealed bearing as they are greased already. Only put grease where it is bolt and bushing. When I got my frame it was painted from CS and apparently they did not cover the bushings before painting. When they assembled the rear triangle they did not clean the bushings and they did not put any grease at all. Again, quality check is non existent and it is a hit or miss if you are lucky or not. I was not lucky.........
Karsten
4mm?! :o Jezuz! No, mine are only about 2.1mm too short and diameter is spot on. Nevertheless I'm myself still entertaining the idea of substituting them with Titanium ones (again Chinese :)). I asked one vendor and he mailed me pictures. Tolerances are ok. The diameter is 7.93-7.96mm. I'm not sure about buying longer ones and shortening them myself...
I actually wanted to ask about greasing of all the pivot joints though. What did you actually grease? You opened bearing seals? I'm obsessing about the joints and want to fix them before mounting all the components on.
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...still entertaining the idea of substituting them with Titanium ones (again Chinese :)). I asked one vendor and he mailed me pictures.
Would you mind to share the references ? Thanks.
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Sure! I asked this one:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Titanium-Ti-Recessed-Bike-Bicycle-Brake-Bolt-Nut-13mm-17mm-21mm-25mm-31-5mm-35mm-37mm/32551496712.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Titanium-Ti-Recessed-Bike-Bicycle-Brake-Bolt-Nut-13mm-17mm-21mm-25mm-31-5mm-35mm-37mm/32551496712.html)
Those are actually brake posts for older type frames. They cost a penny, taking into account that recessed steel bolts cost under a dollar. Still... :)
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Every start has an end and this is the end of me riding my first chiner, the good old CS-036. to be honest I did not ride that particular bike that much due to the way too much flex in the rear triangle. My new MTB is already in my garage and in 4 weeks I have ridden more than I did in 2 1/2 years on my old chiner. But always something old together with new so my win from last Xmas is rolling beautifully under the new MTB and what is it that I have bought - anyone can recognise?
(https://s19.postimg.cc/abiqy7b4j/IMG_1408.jpg)
Karsten