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Re: Elitewheels Drive 50D --> Rim Failure
Thanks! Yeah, i'm no expert but it would be a bit sad to hit a pothole at 70kmh and for the rim to disintegrate because of this point of weakness. if you take a video where you can show that there's material missing / it sounds different, you should get aliexpress to take your side even if elite is reluctant. If they're being unfair / trying to hard ball, you can tell them you will leave negative comments with your experience on the last 20 GCN videos to expose them as crooks or something. Their reputational risk is very high if they refuse to replace stuff when their QC misses material defects in stuff. April 16, 2024, 07:35:10 AM |
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Re: Yishun R1088-D Aero Road
These guys use ASC for threads in thread together(thread fit) bottom bracket - https://youtu.be/84Ut53i17iQ?si=M2J55_MzgPmmvgRz&t=303 Just to quote one that involves a ridiculously pretty girl, look up DREAM BUILD ROAD BIKE - Puck Moonen - Pinarello Dogma. If you can get it for cheap, get liqui moly 3312 and put that on carbon to BB interface. That was the whole point of my earlier message. And regular bike grease on the thread that links the 2 bits together. If you want to retrace the rabbit hole shenanigans, google liqui moly 3312 and or that japanese silicone grease thing (which you'll find on that YT video from rides of japan), you ll find the weight weenies thread on it, and you ll see the various points i've made (Cannondale mechanics being for me the most compelling argument). April 16, 2024, 10:40:44 AM |
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Re: Carbon Wheels- Carbon Vs Metal Spokes
Aliexpress has a sale from Apr15 to Apr20, so you may have luck with farsports or elite wheels, for example. Other than that, peter from carbon speed, whom you can find on the forum (petercycles@foxmail, i think? - do a forum search), has good deals. Ditto on Leon from Yuanan (OEM for Elite wheels, also on the forum). Yes, you would have more comfort with steel spokes because steel is compliant in a way carbon isn't, and sapim cx ray / pillar wing 20 spokes are nice spokes. I can't speak for cheaper ones, i would not cheap out on that. One thing you dont mention is tyre, tyre width and pressure. If you go wider / put latex tubes vs butyl / put TPU tubes vs butyl / go tubeless / lower pressure, you will also gain in comfort, so you may not have to change wheels. The gold standard in tyres is conti GP5000, if you run crap tyres, that'd likely be your best return on investment. Power transfer is a vibe that's used to sell bikes so we can identify with Pogacar. A comfortable bike is far more important than optimizing the last watt of power transfer. If your bike hurts you, you'll ride it less, which makes it a bad bike. April 16, 2024, 12:59:26 PM |
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Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame
Correct. First impression video and then long-term video per usual. Even if I were to conduct standardized test, I would get called out for doing "bro science" as other YouTuber's have. Thankfully the support of this very forum over the years is what allows me to continue and make content. I'm very grateful. Using the same wheels, could you do a NorCal kind of video on a loop you know well, swapping 2 or 3 bikes? You have to use the same wheels for any credible kind of comparison. Your times would be interesting, but equally interesting would be your impression. I take issue with the "because it's 500usd it can never compete with a 1500usd frame", given the 268 is t800&1000, EPS moulded, proven geometry & shape: it's latest best practice afaik. Now yoeleo or the likes are, afaik, just taking oem frames and branding them for a premium, just less of a premium than western brands. Having looked at their specs sheet, manufacturing methods, reputation for QC, the reason why I don't buy them is because I don't see that my money would go into the frame. I'd like to be proven wrong, because I can afford to pay 1500 for a frame, or 5000 for that matter, but i care about relative value. Last, i saw you have a colnago video, any chance you would test ride that with your own wheels for comparison? Colnago Vs velobuild video would break the internet 
April 17, 2024, 02:00:09 AM |
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Re: Lightcarbon: New LCR017-D (or Yishun R1058-D)
Got roasted for opening a new thread regarding this frame. Moving the info here Don't worry, the guy who made the comment often sounds like a dick. I don't mind either way if you post on that thread or as a standalone one, I doubt I'm an outlier, as a detailed thread can be helpful. Anyhow. Looking forward to seeing your build! What kind of lead time have they announced? April 17, 2024, 04:54:26 AM |
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Re: Value of Orome Valar TH50D
You can get cheaper with the same specs, without all the Xmas tree decals. You can look up Yuanan on this forum and chat with Leon on whatsapp, or with Peter from carbonspeed (petercycles@...). Both are 1 forum search away. That said, the price difference won't be huge. With the current aliexpress sale, you may get something from farsports for the same price, and i'd go farsports over elves any day of the week. If you want to future proof your wheelset, you may want to buy 31-32mm wide rims, that's what i'd do. Have you looked at Elves on this forum? I have the impression that their frames have a pretty bad reputation, especially given the price point. April 17, 2024, 12:53:56 PM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-177
177 riders, how are you finding the bike, especially those who use non VB / legit bars? Any points of comparison with known bikes? April 19, 2024, 02:17:45 AM |
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Re: Lightcarbon: New LCR017-D (or Yishun R1058-D)
To be very clear, your frame is broken, do not ride it, get a replacement, and don't pay for it. FYI, it's obvious with the video, but impossible to tell with the picture alone. For any kind of warranty question, i find that video is the way to go. I guess it makes you question the whole "affordable chinese yet ultra light carbon frame" thing a bit... Yishun / Light carbon have excellent reputation, yet less than 5 frames of the LC17 on this forum, and one's cracked out of the box. Not the kind of failure rate we want to live with, and it's infinitely more serious than a shitty C ring causing headset play, flexy bars that can be swapped for 100$ or a slipping seat post we can shim with a piece of soda can or some fiberglass cloth. That is really, really not good. April 19, 2024, 02:27:25 AM |
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Re: Velobuild GF-002
Just realized i never posted pics of the 2 GF002 i built. The orange is mine. I ghetto painted it myself. Farsports wheels, hookless (so my fat ass can hit rocks tubeless without worrying about breaking the rim) Conti Terra Speed 40C tubeless w sealant - nice, but wears out fast. Sensah 2x11 mech. Horrendous FD. Wouldn't recommend Sensah, i built 4 bikes w Sensah 2x11 mech, had a RD die for no reason, and Sensah told me to eat a *ick. And the FD is trash. Jagwire keb-sl brake housing. I do not love the brakes now that i have ltwoo er9 hydraulic on my road bike. in fact i will not build another non hydraulic bike for myself (i'm 80-85kg though). All frames are Medium. I had a lot of fun with the bike last year, put 3.2k km on it, as well as quite a few hours on the trainer. This year it's in fact been by home trainer bike, and it's developed a bunch of creaks i need to diagnose (almost certainly my fault / sweat). The road one is the VB 168 with gangster deep wheels (Farsports too). I find it helpful to see them by side to realize how different the geometry is. It was my 1st gravel bike. I quickly then bought another road bike, because this absolutely does not feel like a do it all road bike. The geometry just doesn't work for me on the road (too high, too slack, doesnt feel good going down hairpins). The vast, vast, vast, vast majority of my riding is road. I kind of wish i had more occasions to ride gravel, because i did enjoy it. But i find myself going for the road bike all the time. My buddy with the black one is a runner so he bought it mostly because he's a lawyer and wanted a pretty bike / FOMO. He's happy with it though, the bike is a head turner. He uses it as a road bike. April 19, 2024, 03:02:18 AM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
I dont think i ever posted my 168 build. built it for a friend and rode it myself for 1600km. I didnt sprint with it, mostly used it on the flat. It is fast. I had a lof of fun with it. It really goes vroom. Definitely comfortable. Dont use such wheels in the mountains, you can't turn, crosswinds are sketchy. On the flat though, it's NICE. I have a rim brake giant propel w 60mm wheels (the one that won bike of the year whenever it came out) and a cannondale supersix himod with campag bora 50 wheels. A bit of an unfair comparison because 25mm vs 28mm, and i didn't do side by side comparisons, and my supersix isn't even in the same country, and my propel is arguably too big for me, and i didn't ride the 168 enough, and i didn't sprint with it / try to make it flex. BUT: i loved it. For context, I have logged 36+k km on strava, so i'm not new to cycling, but i'm not good either. I'm 80-85kg, my ftp is around 280W so when we do group rides we routinely do pulls at 40+kmh, in fact i'm often the guy in front at 50kmh acting as the group tractor, and at no point did i feel "oh i wish i hadn't bought a chinese frame". Again, unscientific, & my branded bikes are arguably "old", although they probably were peak rim brake, both of them. My supersix is the himod version peter sagan had (the green / white / black one). I would like to ride the 168 again to compare it to my LT268, with which i have been doing sprints, and on which i've put 2.5k km this year so far. Entire build was under 2k USD. Conti gp5000 28C w latex tubes, sensah 2x11 mec, jagwire kel-sl brake housing, mech brakes, farsports wheels in gangster depth. I never weighed it but it's probably 8kg, maybe less (w/o pedals). I used an ultralight k7, but the cransket is heavy, and tubes are latex not TPU. I'm posting because i'm looking for a new bike to retire my supersix as my climbing bike, and i find very helpful to see people's build & their experience with it. April 19, 2024, 03:26:44 AM |
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