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Re: Lightcarbon: New LCR017-D (or Yishun R1058-D)
Got roasted for opening a new thread regarding this frame. Moving the info here Don't worry, the guy who made the comment often sounds like a dick. I don't mind either way if you post on that thread or as a standalone one, I doubt I'm an outlier, as a detailed thread can be helpful. Anyhow. Looking forward to seeing your build! What kind of lead time have they announced? April 17, 2024, 04:54:26 AM |
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Re: Value of Orome Valar TH50D
You can get cheaper with the same specs, without all the Xmas tree decals. You can look up Yuanan on this forum and chat with Leon on whatsapp, or with Peter from carbonspeed (petercycles@...). Both are 1 forum search away. That said, the price difference won't be huge. With the current aliexpress sale, you may get something from farsports for the same price, and i'd go farsports over elves any day of the week. If you want to future proof your wheelset, you may want to buy 31-32mm wide rims, that's what i'd do. Have you looked at Elves on this forum? I have the impression that their frames have a pretty bad reputation, especially given the price point. April 17, 2024, 12:53:56 PM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-177
177 riders, how are you finding the bike, especially those who use non VB / legit bars? Any points of comparison with known bikes? April 19, 2024, 02:17:45 AM |
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Re: Lightcarbon: New LCR017-D (or Yishun R1058-D)
To be very clear, your frame is broken, do not ride it, get a replacement, and don't pay for it. FYI, it's obvious with the video, but impossible to tell with the picture alone. For any kind of warranty question, i find that video is the way to go. I guess it makes you question the whole "affordable chinese yet ultra light carbon frame" thing a bit... Yishun / Light carbon have excellent reputation, yet less than 5 frames of the LC17 on this forum, and one's cracked out of the box. Not the kind of failure rate we want to live with, and it's infinitely more serious than a shitty C ring causing headset play, flexy bars that can be swapped for 100$ or a slipping seat post we can shim with a piece of soda can or some fiberglass cloth. That is really, really not good. April 19, 2024, 02:27:25 AM |
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Re: Velobuild GF-002
Just realized i never posted pics of the 2 GF002 i built. The orange is mine. I ghetto painted it myself. Farsports wheels, hookless (so my fat ass can hit rocks tubeless without worrying about breaking the rim) Conti Terra Speed 40C tubeless w sealant - nice, but wears out fast. Sensah 2x11 mech. Horrendous FD. Wouldn't recommend Sensah, i built 4 bikes w Sensah 2x11 mech, had a RD die for no reason, and Sensah told me to eat a *ick. And the FD is trash. Jagwire keb-sl brake housing. I do not love the brakes now that i have ltwoo er9 hydraulic on my road bike. in fact i will not build another non hydraulic bike for myself (i'm 80-85kg though). All frames are Medium. I had a lot of fun with the bike last year, put 3.2k km on it, as well as quite a few hours on the trainer. This year it's in fact been by home trainer bike, and it's developed a bunch of creaks i need to diagnose (almost certainly my fault / sweat). The road one is the VB 168 with gangster deep wheels (Farsports too). I find it helpful to see them by side to realize how different the geometry is. It was my 1st gravel bike. I quickly then bought another road bike, because this absolutely does not feel like a do it all road bike. The geometry just doesn't work for me on the road (too high, too slack, doesnt feel good going down hairpins). The vast, vast, vast, vast majority of my riding is road. I kind of wish i had more occasions to ride gravel, because i did enjoy it. But i find myself going for the road bike all the time. My buddy with the black one is a runner so he bought it mostly because he's a lawyer and wanted a pretty bike / FOMO. He's happy with it though, the bike is a head turner. He uses it as a road bike. April 19, 2024, 03:02:18 AM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
I dont think i ever posted my 168 build. built it for a friend and rode it myself for 1600km. I didnt sprint with it, mostly used it on the flat. It is fast. I had a lof of fun with it. It really goes vroom. Definitely comfortable. Dont use such wheels in the mountains, you can't turn, crosswinds are sketchy. On the flat though, it's NICE. I have a rim brake giant propel w 60mm wheels (the one that won bike of the year whenever it came out) and a cannondale supersix himod with campag bora 50 wheels. A bit of an unfair comparison because 25mm vs 28mm, and i didn't do side by side comparisons, and my supersix isn't even in the same country, and my propel is arguably too big for me, and i didn't ride the 168 enough, and i didn't sprint with it / try to make it flex. BUT: i loved it. For context, I have logged 36+k km on strava, so i'm not new to cycling, but i'm not good either. I'm 80-85kg, my ftp is around 280W so when we do group rides we routinely do pulls at 40+kmh, in fact i'm often the guy in front at 50kmh acting as the group tractor, and at no point did i feel "oh i wish i hadn't bought a chinese frame". Again, unscientific, & my branded bikes are arguably "old", although they probably were peak rim brake, both of them. My supersix is the himod version peter sagan had (the green / white / black one). I would like to ride the 168 again to compare it to my LT268, with which i have been doing sprints, and on which i've put 2.5k km this year so far. Entire build was under 2k USD. Conti gp5000 28C w latex tubes, sensah 2x11 mec, jagwire kel-sl brake housing, mech brakes, farsports wheels in gangster depth. I never weighed it but it's probably 8kg, maybe less (w/o pedals). I used an ultralight k7, but the cransket is heavy, and tubes are latex not TPU. I'm posting because i'm looking for a new bike to retire my supersix as my climbing bike, and i find very helpful to see people's build & their experience with it. April 19, 2024, 03:26:44 AM |
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Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame
Has anyone else experienced any issues with the seat clamp? Mine isn't securely holding the seat rail at all. I've torqued it down to 9Nm, but I still feel a pinching force on the carbon rails, which doesn't seem right. people have had success fixing slipping seat posts with fiberglass cloth (in roll format). I think I'd try a bit of duct tape on that rail, the kind that has some cloth waved through. 9nm sounds right, idk if i'd want to go much higher. April 19, 2024, 04:41:39 AM |
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Re: LTWOO ER9 & ERX - Electronic groepsets
PEOPLE I HAVE FOUND THE FIX AND MIGHT HELP YOU. I can't read your scribbles, but I'm very interested. Would you mind using Paint and the text function, or PowerPoint with text boxes over the photo instead? Thanks! April 21, 2024, 10:47:50 AM |
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Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame
Hi, That metal lip of the plug is going to sit at the top of the steerer column. You have to cut that steerer so that there's space to compress the whole system. A few mm more won't make a difference, but measure twice cut once, ofc, you do want the stem to clamp on the steerer and not half void... If that's unclear (it used to be unclear to me), there are YouTube videos that explain everything. April 21, 2024, 10:55:00 AM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
Wow. Thanks Serge for posting. . I am using similar break calipers (hydro piston with mechanical cable actuation) , I like them. So far they are dependable and easy to adjust. What’s your take on them? They work, but I've since used L-TWOO hydraulic brakes and i like that better. I'd again have to ride back to back, but save for niche things like bike packing in weird places, I think i prefer hydraulic. All of this is subject to riding more over a longer period of time though. Bike parts need to stand the test of time. I've also since then converted my bikes to 180 rotors at the back because I found cheap adaptors. I'm c.83kg, for me it's a no brainer. On long steep technical descents with bad road surface I need all the help I can get. April 21, 2024, 11:11:38 AM |
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