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Re: Magene P505 PES Base Spider Powermeter
So I put the Assiomas on the bike. I did a ramp test and a quick workout in Zwift and recorded both the Magene P505 and the Assiomas. The Magene consistently overreads by around 5% while the cadence is pretty much identical on both units. I did a zero calibration with both units prior to comparing them. I adjusted the power scaling accordingly in the Magene Utility app. I'll give it another go shortly to see if I can get them to match up. November 21, 2023, 06:04:04 AM |
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Re: Magene P505 PES Base Spider Powermeter
Just a clarification. Is the higher reading from the Magene while you ride? Or did you do an analysis of the power data after recording? If you’re just looking at the two numbers during the ride it may be hard to get an accurate comparison based on how each unit reports the data. The best way to do it record each device to a separate head unit, or one device to Zwift and one to a head unit. Then pull each file and do a direct comparison. ZwiftPower has a free tool. DC Rainmaker has the most well known but costs money. There are some others out there. I’ve used compare-the-watts.com and recorded both powermeters. One with Zwift and one on my Wahoo. The average wattage for the Magene is 5.14% higher than the Assiomas according to the website. Looking at the power curve, the deviation is pretty much consistently higher by 5%, meaning that the gap increases, the higher the wattage. Thanks for the tip with this website by the way. I did use DC Rainmaker’s tool in the past. This is just as good. November 21, 2023, 11:38:21 AM |
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Re: Magene P505 PES Base Spider Powermeter
3rd run - issue solved. I did a test run of 55min of free riding on Zwift. I set the Magene P505 to 101%. The Assiomas and the Magene were within 0.1% of each other according to compare-the-watts.com The curves are basically indistinguishable from each other. Also the cadence reading is identical. Very happy with that. November 22, 2023, 08:26:03 AM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-218
I replaced the bottom headset bearing. To my pleasant surprise it wasn't actually worn out. It was just the dirt and grime that got in there that produced noise when turning the bars. I could have just cleaned it. Since I had the new Cane Creek bearing and crown race lying around I figured I might as well put that in and keep the original bearing as a spare. I took the opportunity to cut down the steerer a bit more and take off the single spacer I still had on top of the stem.
November 23, 2023, 06:34:58 AM |
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Re: TanTan TT-X38 Build
Quick update on mine. I'm approaching 500km and I've ironed out all the small details and issues. Currently where I live, it's either dark, raining or snowing so I've been riding this bike pretty much exclusively on the trainer for the last few weeks. I faced the disc brake mounts and now the brakes are perfectly free of rub. I bought this little tool from Icetoolz that I really was quite skeptical about. But it worked a treat. It's nowhere near to what workshops are using but it's way better than using sandpaper. Also, I swapped the cheap lockrings for original ones from Shimano. I can still rock the rotors back and forth on the hubs. I used a washer on the front. That improved the issue but it didn't completely stop it. At this point, I'm just going to accept that that's how it is with Centerlock rotors apparently. Still, if you're used to 6 bolt rotors which obviously stay put where they are, are lighter and cheaper, it's a bit hard to accept honestly. I could have bought the wheelset with 6 bolt hubs, had I wanted to. Looking back, I wish I did. Speaking of the hubs. After just two rides in the wet, the front hub started sounding super rough. I popped away the bearing seals to find that they were bone dry. I greased them but it's too late I reckon. I will be able to ride them a bit longer but I guess the bearing races and balls are already corroded to the point where grease will only delay the inevitable. They're regular 6802s and easy to replace. This is a 500 EUR wheelset after all, so I guess it was bound to happen. I put on 175mm Sram cranks and these super cheap pedals from Xpedo (I know, the name). These are real gems. They are rock solid. They have a very wide range of adjustment and they are only around 230g whilst having a very wide platform. They are identical in size with the Favero Assiomas I have on my other bike so they feel like home to me. And they cost just 40 EUR. If you like the Look pedal standard, these are a steal. All in all, I'm super happy with the bike. I will eventually upgrade it to 12sp bc I do notice it compared to my 12sp road bike. There are one or two gear jumps which are a tad too big for my liking. The LTWOO groupset is just super easy to live with. I like it a lot. It shifts very smooth and never really skips a beat. The only criticism I really have is the tactile feel of the shifter buttons. It's too vague for my liking. And shifting feels slow at times. You get used to it and it's not really a deal breaker. But I'm used to Campy Record 12sp on my other bike which is probably the most direct feeling mechanical drivetrain there is. The moment you move the paddle is when the shift happens. Compare that to clicking a button, waiting for the ECU to compute the command and only then does the derailleur move, it just feels slow. It all happens in milliseconds but it's still noticeably slower. Still, I take this over having to route 2 shift cables and 2 brake lines through a headset bearing any day. Sorry for the huge photos. After the lates update, iOS won't let me resize the images anymore. November 28, 2023, 03:47:18 AM |
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Re: TanTan TT-X38 Build
Intrerested in the Icetoolz Shuriken #E272 facing tool that you used: I understand how the screw mechanism would work for postmount. It’s really only a tool that scrapes the paint away and creates a paint free surface where the caliper sits. It’s way too blunt to do any actual milling and cutting. On my frame it was all that was needed to have the caliper sit evenly against the metal inserts in the fork and against the frame in the back. I’d say it’s worth it if you can get it cheap enough. It’s quicker and much more convenient than sandpaper. I don’t think it’s really any different with postmount. The bolts are just sitting further away from each other. November 30, 2023, 04:28:39 AM |
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Re: LTWOO ER9 & ERX - Electronic groepsets
My 500k update on er9. I’m pleased with it. It works very well. No issues, despite a few rides in really grim weather conditions. I’ve also washed the bike quite a few times now. No problems. I’m interested to know if someone here can compare it with other electronic groupsets. I’ve only ever ridden the last generation 11sp Ultegra Di2. But that’s quite a while ago. I wish the shifting was a bit quicker with er9, particularly when going to bigger cogs/easier gears on the cassette. The time it takes from clicking to the chain making it to the next cog sometimes feels rather slow. Especially compared to the mechanical groupsets I got on my other bikes. Also: More feedback from the shift buttons would be nice. Other than that, no complaints. November 30, 2023, 04:44:46 AM |
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Re: TanTan TT-X38 Build
I can see how you used it with the fork, screw in the screw and then turn the tool. But at the rear? There is no thread in the frame, so any bolt or adapter might misalign the tool? I used a long screw, a nut and a washer. Worked well enough. November 30, 2023, 05:05:57 AM |
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Re: TanTan TT-X38 Build
Does anyone have an update on the ride experience of this frame after some more mileage? Any issues, creaking or slippage to worry about? No issues for me except for the usual sharp edges inside the frame at cable entry and exit ports here and there. But I consider this normal for a frame in this price range. No issues with the BB threads. It's too early however for a verdict. The bike is sitting on the trainer most of the time ATM and I've literally done the first outdoor ride in weeks yesterday. I'm still dialing in my position on this frame. Not 100% happy with it yet so I need more time on it. What I can say is that it feels surprisingly comfy. But I do ride wider tires on this so I can't compare it like for like with the road bikes I had before. The beefy BB area feels plenty stiff. More so than on my other bikes which is particularly noticeable (and visible) on the turbo. I like that. All in all, the bike feels good for sustained efforts and holding a high average speed. I also like the feeling when sprinting (though I suck at sprinting so my opinion might not be worth much). I like the feeling less when climbing which might be because I'm not yet 100% satisfied with my seated position. But also during standing efforts, the bike feels somehow slower on climbs. I feel it has to do with the bigger tire volume and the tires squishing more during standing efforts. I'm still experimenting with tire pressure. I'm at around 60psi up front and 65 in the back for 28c tires (measuring 31mm). But particularly when doing standing efforts, it feels a bit soft to me. I'm 82kg, so on the heavy side. December 13, 2023, 12:55:44 AM |
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Re: TanTan TT-X38 Build
Another small issue I found: The seatpost wedge will suffer from water ingress, almost by design since it's sitting on the top tube in front of the seatpost. The rubber cover does practically nothing to keep water out there. It just does not sit tight enough. IME most of the steel bolts that come on the hardware with frames like these are of a very low grade steel. So they rust - very quickly. The bolts in the seatpost wedge were rusty. And on my VB-R 218, the retaining bolts for the BB cover under the frame did rust very quickly as well. So it's best to use something to alleviate that problem. Grease, copper paste or something else. I've also put a layer of protective paint on bolts in the past (nail lacquer works well, I found). December 15, 2023, 04:51:02 AM |
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