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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
Quote from: kbike on October 20, 2021, 07:03:10 PM
I will make full build post. hopefully within a week. 

I ran the 4 cables via the large opening of bars.  I figured there would be less tight bends. Plus I wanted fully internal.

Fork
I ran two housings left and two right of fork. One housing on right going into the fork. If you run housings same direction around fork it wants to pull and or pinch.  I ran cables into housings before fully compressing everything.

I slammed the stem no spacers needed and I used jagwire keb-sl and lex cables.

The fully internal route on these bars is a nice option.

Yeah, +1 for making sure the cables and hoses to/from the right and left shifters are routed down the headtube and around the steerer accordingly. Also, taking a look a kbike's photo, I'd highly recommend running the cables and hoses parallel to each other through the handlebars and down the head tube without crossing over, especially if you are using spacers. Looking at that space right before the cables and hoses take the 90 degree turn down, there is actually enough room to run them all parallel to each other all the way through the bars, through the bend, and down into the headtube.

I found that if I crossed them over anywhere along that length, the pinch point eventually caused the housings to buckle making for stiff shifting and squishy braking. It's a tight fit to get them all parallel, but I used dental tools and a small flathead screw driver to get them all into correct orientation. I believe I had the brake hoses sandwiched between the shifter cables all the way through the bars, stem, headset, and headtube. Worked great even after I cut the stem down further and removed some spacers.
October 21, 2021, 11:39:33 AM 		1
Re: Internal cable routing problem Your routing through the handlebars is fine. You'll have to cross your brake lines, but do it after they go through the top headset bearing and the space in the lock ring so that your 2 brake lines and 2 cable housings run parallel through the lock ring in the same orientation as they are through the handlebars. You should be able to cross the brake lines in front of the steerer down the front of the headtube.
November 29, 2021, 12:43:01 PM 		1
Re: BXT Road 115 (BXT-ROAD-115) The big issue with the Press Fit is creaking. I had some minor creaking issues from my PF 86/92 Wheels Manufacturing thread together BB, but when I switched over to a SRAM DUB 29mm spindle Wheels Manufacturing BB, I have had no issues across two different frames. The biggest issue was the cost of all the tools to remove and install a traditional PF. On the other hand, I had a BSA on my aluminum frame Giant road bike that I ended up stripping clean in around 2000 miles of riding. The frame was trashed but Giant replaced it, no questions asked.

Other things that get talked about are the big fat bottom areas that builders can design because the PF BBs sit flush with the frame.

Anyway, with a little research, you can read all about PF versus BSA but it all just comes down to what's cost effective and worth your time.
December 10, 2021, 11:00:53 AM 		1
Re: My Dengfu R12 - First Impressions and Video
Quote from: patliean1 on December 13, 2021, 11:11:23 AM
For some reason...the forum can't/won't load my YouTube URL. My apologies if this is against the rules.
Here is the title of the video: I May Have A Problem - Dengfu R12 First Look

A couple of other thoughts:
1. This was my first time building up a hydraulic disc brake frameset. It absolutely was AWFUL and thankfully all the learning lessons means that I could probably build my next disc bike in a single day....rather than over four days  :o

2. What took the longest during the process was undoubtably routing the cables and bleeding the brakes. And that's including using the Park Took internal cable routing guide tools as well as a legitimate brake bleed kit. While routing from the calipers to the lever is easier...next time I'd rather start from the levers. I initially had some brake oil leak from the levers so I'd rather have that setup properly first.

3. Having now built 3 bikes in the span of just over one year, I've learned that you really have to take your time. Watch as many YouTube tutorials as you can and don't skip or fast forward like I did haha. I originally overlooked the "burping" of the levers by tilting the bike up/down at 45 degree angles.

I'll upload a couple of finished photos later today.

Thanks for sharing your videos! I think I might have watched your PRO Stealth review awhile back before pulling the trigger on a practically new PRO Stealth carbon on EBAY for $100.

Definitely a learning curve with any bike build, but Chinese open mould frames are super special. I've also built up 3 separate frames since COVID, but I've rebuilt my Chinese frame at least three times, not including cable and hose changes which practically require a entire rebuild. Does get easier each time. The problem with disc brakes is that the routing issues make the brake bleeding much more complicated. What you think may be a bleeding problem is just a hose that's pinched somewhere because of all the 90 degree bends and choke points from the levers through the headt tube.
December 13, 2021, 01:36:24 PM 		2
Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame Nope. No problems, but YMMV. It's a great frame. One of those "would be nice if" issues with a Chinese frame is not being able to get a bike fit before purchasing. I should probably have gone with a 54 instead of a 56, but even being on the big side, there's plenty of range to get a decent fit, for me anyway. /shrug
December 16, 2021, 11:04:39 AM 		1
Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame 5' 10"/178 cm, 32"/ 81 cm.
December 17, 2021, 07:07:47 PM 		1
Re: Velobuild VB-R-177 Thanks for the video! Nice to see our own Snacks  commenting.  ;)
December 23, 2021, 02:00:42 PM 		1
Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
Quote from: hazzer19 on February 02, 2022, 10:05:35 AM
I actually took off the stem so am confident there was no force compressing the steerer.

At first I just wanted to switch to something "safer", however now it's more out of necessity as the stock expander is not gripping well internally and slipping up when I compress the headset (using carbon paste as well).

I switched to this one. Works a lot better, no slipping issues.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/274059545505?hash=item3fcf38cba1:g:dJMAAOSwuShai4Wg
February 02, 2022, 11:31:12 AM 		2
Re: TanTan TT-X21 frame The compression ring from the FSA headset worked fine with my TanTan headset cover. I did cover the top surface with some tacky tape but it probably didnt need it. Not sure what else to suggest other than to let a tech take look a it.

I'd show you my set-up but it's currently mothballed.
February 21, 2022, 07:40:50 PM 		1
Re: Velo Build R-099 Build
Quote from: RDY on February 23, 2022, 04:00:50 AM
Ok, good news.  Chris has said that $350 from us is enough to start the zero offset mould.

We'll PP our $50 each and then they'll begin.

The following expressed interest in paying $50 each for the mould.  If you don't want to go ahead, please indicate now and we'll try to find others to fill your place. 

Me.
@J-S-Q
@Velovelo
@FHS
@zaphodbeeblebrox
@Bikeoiv
@BiciDomingo

When Chris gives me the PP address he wants to use, I'll post it here.  Reference will be "099 zero offset mould".   When you've made the payment, you can post a screengrab here of it - of course feel free to obscure personal details. 

I've also asked him to indicate what the final price for the seatpost will be.

Thanks for organizing!

If possible, could you ask Chris if he can apply a portion the payment for the mould to the payment for the actual seat post? It doesn't necessarily have to be the full amount, depending on the final price, but even a discounted price would be a nice gesture for getting this made for all of us to be able to pick up.

Thanks!
February 23, 2022, 01:43:28 PM 		1