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Re: Velobuild VB-R-218
The 218 is massive at the bottom bracket. Plenty of space there. I found it easier to route the cables above the crank spindle. You could route it below. But it’s tighter there. And particularly with the front rd I’d be worried that the cable moves and rubs at the crank spindle.
November 13, 2022, 01:43:59 AM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-218
Here's the pix of all the parts that fell into & out of the box as soon as it was opened #9 is the top headset bearing dust cover. Contrary to the spacers, this one is mandatory because it seamlessly integrates between the handlebar and the frame #10 and 12 is the two piece wedge that goes into the little pocket behind the seatpost. #11 is the wedge that goes inbetween the handlebar and the steerer tube. #13 is the Di2 adapter. You won't need that for your build. Be careful with #5 - I found it to have sharp edges and sanded them smooth to protect the carbon steerer tube. But the aluminium is super thin in places and it can easily bend and break if you're not careful. I've bent mine back in shape but ordered a replacement just to be safe. November 30, 2022, 05:05:26 AM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-218
For the freehub, do you guys put any lubricant on the hub before adding cassette or just add cassette & then anti-seize lube to threads on lockring ? Never. And I don't see why you should, at least with aluminium freehubs. If the cassette is hard to get off, it's usually because of cassette bite. Grease will do nothing to alleviate that problem. Campagnolo freehubs have taller splines however and cassette bite is much less of an issue. December 01, 2022, 07:45:53 AM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-218
Post a link to the dead plug or let me know if this one will fit This is the one I’m talking about: https://dedaelementi.com/expander-70 You can of course use any other top cap with it. The original Pinarello expander is fine as well, obviously. It seems to be around 40mm long which is pretty standard. Like I said before, I prefer longer expanders. December 03, 2022, 01:56:22 PM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-218
See I installed it the other way round. Longer hardware in the seat post and shorter in the stem. It also material. I don't know what the stock hardware is made out of but the Home Depot stuff tells you right there. Thanks again. Some good info, there. Interesting: The rear brake housing for rim brakes is supposed to be routed through the hole on the right hand side of the steerer. I did route it like that but thought I've done it wrong after assembling the bike. Because traditionally with external routing, the rear brake would be routed around the steerer on the opposite side. AND: If I turn the bars all the way to the left, I cannot pull the rear brake. I'm not sure why. The cable seems to be compressed in a way that completely stops the cable from moving. It doesn't bother me. I would never have the bars in that position on the road anyway and braking is perfectly smooth otherwise. Still, instinctively I would route the cable on the other side. December 05, 2022, 10:13:14 AM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-218
and fixed...... There's only one piece of rubber on the rim brake frame - where the rear derailleur cable exits the frame. Also, my advice is to keep the cables in the shifters when installing them. They do a really tight bend on top of the shifter and it's easy to kink the cable when routing it through there. Lastly on the housing: Yes, 5mm is for brakes, 4mm is for shifter cables. You can also tell them apart because shifter housing is compressionless and much harder to cut. You can see that the housing is reinforced with lots of wires in circular order. DO NOT run the cables bare through the frame without anything to guide them. The frame is designed for full length housing. Campagnolo annoyingly does not deliver housing long enough. The pieces they deliver are designed for traditional externally routed frames. Also, they do not sell their housing any longer to my knowledge. So just go to your LBS and get brake and shifter housing long enough. They sell it by the meter, or whatever unit you guys are using in California  . If you run the cables bare, I can't imagine it will shift right. There are no cable stops inside the frame so the cables won't be under tension AND even if it did work, the cable would most likely rub through the carbon over time. I might try and install cable stops with heat glue on my replacement frame. At least for the rear brake. But not sure yet if it's worth it. December 06, 2022, 12:18:23 AM |
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Re: LTWOO RX hydro sets
I love that something like this finally exists. Groupset prices have gotten out of hand. However, this has Campagnolo written all over it. At least the shifters look like they're very closely "inspired" - the mechanism seems like a blatant copy of Campag's Power Shift. I wonder how they're getting around Patent infringements on this one. The front derailleur is intriguing. It seems to be a genuine original design and I love that it incorporates a cable tensioner. Question: What kind of pads are these calipers using? Is it an existing standard and are they easy to source? Or is it a proprietary design? December 07, 2022, 03:38:20 AM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-218
Spoke with 4 different local bike shops & every single one of them declined to work on the frame & drill the rear brake hole. You’ll be fine. The frame is not that fragile. Just use a drill. Be careful. Widen the hole. Use a round file to smooth the edges or a bit of rolled sand paper. Run full length brake housing and that’s it. That’s what I did. Everything else will be a bodge. No rubber grommet is needed for that hole. It’s not in a position where water ingress is an issue. In the early Di2 days Cervelo actually advised customers to drill their frames because they did not come stock with the respective holes. It’s not like you’re drilling the fork steerer or the handlebar. Same with the FD and RD. Run full length housing. There’s really no other way of doing it with this frame. December 08, 2022, 12:28:13 PM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-218
Use actual drills. Start small and go wider gradually. Don’t force it in but rather let it gently eat its way in. 5mm is the diameter of the housing. You’ll need it slightly bigger because the housing enters at an angle. Once it’s big enough you can use those bits to smooth the edges. You need something straight rather than comically shaped to smoothen it evenly throughout. It’s really not that difficult. The carbon won’t fray or crack that easily. Don’t worry. I mean be gentle and don’t butcher it. But it’s really unlikely that you’ll ruin the frame there in my opinion as long as you go easy and gradually and use good tools. For what it’s worth: I just used drills and carefully scraped my way through by hand and tested it again and again until the housing fit the way I liked it. December 08, 2022, 02:07:39 PM |
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Re: LTWOO RX hydro sets
The right shifter hood rubber pinches the thumb shifter causing it to get stuck and not returning up. I trimmed the rubber away so it will click back smoothly. The shifter allows multi shifts in both directions with the right hand levers. Have to see how the indexing is for the front. Then see what the hydros are like. If it does multiple shifts in both directions then I correct myself. It's a copy of Campagnolo Ultra Shift then. It actually seems to be absolutely identical judging from the shots of the ratchet ring. This design has been around ever since Campagnolo first introduced their first generation of brifters in the early 90s. They only really ever updated the number of gears it can shift starting from 8sp until 12sp today. So maybe the design itself is not protected anymore since it's that old? December 12, 2022, 09:42:56 AM |
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