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Re: Velobuild VB-R-218
so anyone else seen this one by Hambini ? Well I’ve had no less than three of these frames in my workshop for reasons I mentioned earlier. I agree with Hambini for the most part. He’s not talking about thru axle alignment but rather about the brake mounts for the disc callipers. That’s a common issue on many frames. I agree with him that the BB threads are shit. Not very cleanly cut at all. However, on all three frames I was able to thread in BB cups on the first attempt without cleaning anything. And lastly the paintjob. Well, it’s a 50USD paintjob. It’s way better than what I could do for 50USD. But it’s far from spotless. However, all three frames I got were not as badly finished as his frame. I think what this clearly shows is that there’s quite the variation in quality with Velobuild. And that doesn’t inspire confidence in their QC. They do however in my experience admit when they’re at failure and try to correct it. December 17, 2022, 12:51:10 AM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-218
Completed Bike pix Nice One! Congrats on finishing your build. Looking great. I like the Blackbird reference. Glad I could help you on your odyssee January 12, 2023, 01:43:49 AM |
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Re: Carbon Repair - Is my frame fixable?
I had a nice crack in the middle of my top tube, if you want to fix it the "right way" you apply epoxy + a carbon fiber laminate, you can buy DIY repair kits, you get 2 bottles one with the resin and another with the hardener, you need some compression tape to help squeeze excess resin and make it almost a pro job, then after few days of drying just sand the excess resin and ez like new Same here. I successfully repaired the broken seat clamp area on my VB 218 frame (see the VB218 thread). The frame was replaced by VB under warranty. So I thought I'd give it a go. Only thing I would add is that I did actually make sure that the fibres I used for repairing actually had the same tensile strength and e-module (elasticity) than the T700/T800 that the frame is made out of. The shop I ordered this stuff from had many different fibres, weaves and densities on offer. So it took a bit of time to do the research and understand it all. That being said, I would probably never attempt to repair a fork steerer or a handlebar myself. The seat cluster is now holding up fine. I've been riding the frame for around 1000km. No issues. I still haven't painted over the repaired area to be able to inspect it every now and then. January 12, 2023, 06:41:29 AM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-218
2. FD was a lot more challenging because it will now rub on top 2 & bottom 2 (on rears) when the front is large & small respectively Your chain rub problem sounds like a non issue to me. I dunno about you but I’m not using these gears anyway. My experience with Campy is that you could try and set it up with no chain rub in all the gears but that might make Front shifting less smooth because the FD’s zero position is too far inboard. That means that a) you might drop the chain when downshifting unless you’re careful to not shift all the way through with your front shifter. And b) You might struggle to upshift in one go unless you remind yourself to trim the FD and shift one click in the outboard direction before actually doing the shift. I do actually have my limit screws set up so I can slightly overshift on the upshifts and so I can eliminate chain rub in the easiest gear. I love that I can micro trim the FD all the time. It’s become second nature. But you got to get used to this when coming from other systems. January 14, 2023, 01:31:04 AM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-218
@Sebastian No. I’m still running 11sp and on my town bike even 9sp. All Campy. But I don’t see why you shouldnt be able to set up Campy 12sp without chain rub. Provided, that you trim your FD whilst riding, that is. Just like I described above. Just set your limit screws accordingly so you can overshift in both directions If your chain rubs, just move your FD one click in the respective direction to eliminate it. January 15, 2023, 01:05:38 PM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-218
1. This might sound like a dumb question, but when you move the inner or outer limit screws on the FD do you see it move ? Here’s how I do it: Step 1: Attaching the cable to the FD. Put the chain in the small ring on the front and on the largest cog in the back and set the derailleur with the inner limit screw so it just about doesn’t rub. When adjusting the inner limit screw, you will see the FD move. This is the front FDs zero position. Step 2: Pull the cable tight and attach and tighten it to the FD. If it’s a new cable and I haven’t shortened it yet, I might use some pliers to grab and pull it tight. Step 3: Shift to the big ring on the front and to the smallest cog in the back. Adjust the outer limit screw so you can overshift with the FD, but not too far because you might drop the chain when upshifting otherwise. Now upon setting the outer limit screw you will not see any movement on the FD. The outer limit screw provides a stop for the FD to push against when you upshift. It won’t go further outboard than to where you set the outer limit. And as I said: I set it up so it slightly overshifts and once the chain is in the big ring I move the FD one click back. As for your question about shifting on inclines: Yes, I can. But you have to give it some thought and release the power on the pedals a bit whe you do the shift. I understand you’ve been using an electronic groupset on your Madone. Probably the biggest advantage on electronic groupsets in my opinion is how great the front shifting works. The electronic motor will force the chain on the big ring no matter what. You don’t have to think about it. But if you time your shift badly the chain might get severely stuck in a way you wouldn’t be able to do it by sheer hand force. January 17, 2023, 07:14:16 AM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-218
I just realized that my step1 is a bit misleading. Obviously, step 1 is done without the cable attached. that happens in step 2. No matter how stripped the screw head is, if you get it to turn then the FD should move. Unless you've exceeded the maximum inboard position. At that point, the screw will do nothing more but turn further out and FD is as far inboard as it goes. January 17, 2023, 11:42:06 AM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-218
Well, should the FD move with just a quarter/half/full turn on the screw ? Well, I feel like you should take a brief look at how the limit screws actually work. That’s gonna make it a lot easier for you to understand how to set this thing up. You can probably see it better on the RD. There’s tabs in the derailleur that the screws make contact with and then push against as you turn them further in. So the answer to your question is: Yes, the FD should move at a quarter of a turn of the LOWER limit screw, IF that screw is already turned in far enough to actually make contact with the aforementioned tab. The OUTER limit screw will not make your FD move. It will just make it stop further outboard or inboard when you upshift. January 17, 2023, 12:57:39 PM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-218
Yes, I was referring to the inner limit screw (thanks for adding in the outer limit description, which helps) It's hard to diagnose your FD without ever having seen it. Maybe have a look here: It's an 11sp FD but the principle is identical. If your FD doesn't move at all upon turning the inner limit screw, I'm afraid it might just be terminally damaged. January 19, 2023, 02:20:48 AM |
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Re: Carbon Repair - Is my frame fixable?
Great! I think you made the right choice. And also good that you kept this frame out of the landfill. Enjoy riding it!
January 24, 2023, 01:38:55 AM |
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