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Re: LTWOO ER9 & ERX - Electronic groepsets
I'll post more eventually, but i bought 5 er9, i've installed 4 so far, ridden 1 over 5 rides (300+km) and i LOVE it. The app is great, calibration is easy, and you can fit 11-34T. Being able to switch between 11 and 12s in app is amazing. Battery & cables (w/o the 2x14500 batteries). 50g Shifters (pair) 453g. There's oil inside, as well as batteries. RD 297g FD 143g Brakes w housing 351g. You end up cutting 20-40cm of housing, can't weigh much. There's oil inside. Hardware 72g (using 160mm mounts). Subject to which bolts you use though. Together: 1386g assuming 2 batteries weigh 20g. I didn't buy the right bleed tool originally (ZMTB), and given there's oil in both the shifters and the housing, so far i've gotten away without bleeding the brakes, they work fine out of the box. I used the video from Klein Concept on Youtube as a guide. Great dude. February 12, 2024, 09:49:43 AM |
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Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame
From last year, i dont think I posted these. Very nice frame, wants to go fast, and compliant / elegant. Wheels that deep in a cross wind in the mountains though... meh. February 12, 2024, 09:53:56 AM |
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Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame
It's really interesting how quickly these brokers / producers are iterating. Now a frame that doesn't have EPS moulding feels ancient, 2-3 years ago it was pretty high end. Forks are getting wider. Holes are getting rounder, brake mounts are getting flat / faced. C rings are iterated so headset play is no more QC is getting better. It's great. Next frontier is probably weight. In the last year / months, light disc bikes are becoming the rage again, after being told weight didn't matter by the big brands. But light weight means catastrophic failure if done wrong, or bikes that feel like noodles under heavy guys. February 14, 2024, 03:35:34 AM |
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Re: Velobuild GF-002
From memory, I may have used a few 3d printed shims on the drive side on the GF002. Barely any thickness, so that 34 inner ring doesnt eat the chain stay. Not all cranks are the same btw, so mileage will vary.
February 15, 2024, 03:22:53 PM |
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Re: FM368 Winow frame
7.6kg. Havent ridden it. I'll deliver the 2nd one in a day or 2. I'll try to ride one a bit to see how it compares with mine. The battery of the L-twoo Er9 doesnt fit in the seat tube, so i had to be creative. February 15, 2024, 03:35:06 PM |
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Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame
I have built 4 velobuild frames with sensah mechanical. it works. It's a MAJOR pain, but it works. Front derailleurs tend to be the worst performers. You kind of NEED to buy brake cables that are road specific. that way the other end is smooth and slides in housing despite the shitty angles. if you have cables that you snip on one end, unless you're a soldering maestro, the end of the wire catches in sharp angles in the housing and after a while you want to burn society to the ground and go live in the woods. I havent ridden more than c.450km on my ltwoo er9, but so far i LOVE it. it means 2 cables instead of 4 to route via the headset area, which makes it a breeze in comparison. The geekiest may be mechanical at the back, and electronic at the front. that would a frankenbuild though. 3 cables much better than 4 still. You could do mechanical disc and mechanical shift at the rear, and hydraulic and electronic at the front. You would woo the ladies with your engineering acumen. They'd be like "please take me here now". Maybe. February 18, 2024, 05:02:01 AM |
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Re: LTWOO ER9 & ERX - Electronic groepsets
My eRX Rear Derailleur stops working during ride. Anybody have a fix? Do you have the version of the battery that holds batteries with tabs or springs? It's been established that the tabs version led to problems, vs i'm unaware of problems with the springs version. I would start there, because if you have the tabs version, contact LTWOO and get a springs version. The battery housing weighs nothing so shipping it to you should be super cheap for them. And in the meantime, you can add shims to increase the pressure / tension on the system. It is unlikely that any of your group is broken, stuff typically doesnt randomly breaks just like that, especially when it's new and you weren't doing anything weird with it. February 19, 2024, 03:52:32 AM |
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Re: Seka Exceed RDC Broken Frames: Source of Concern?
How much do you weigh and how hard do you ride? Assuming you're not too light, from a risk / reward standpoint, buying a Chinese frame that's not the lightest means there will be more material everywhere. And it will likely be stiffer, which is a good thing up to a point. Although more recent frames (1 year or so) are all EPS foam moulded, which should mean a cleaner inside & better layer compression / adhesion. Which in turn should mean you can go with a lighter frame. I'm building my 9th Chinese frame in 2 years right now so i've handled a bike or 2. My Facteur (i'm trolling Factor) is a Long Teng and the other one is a Winow. It's early days (<500km) but so far I love the LT. Which looks a LOT like the 2024 velobuild (268). The Winow weighs c.7.6kg. Didn't weigh mine, probably the same or a bit less. I'm c.84kg and my FTP is somewhere between 275 & 300W, and I suck at sprinting. Because of that, I went with chunky frames, wasn't man enough to risk building a lightweight frame blind. The Facteur is stiff AF, the only things i can feel flex (when doing 800+W) are the tyres & the spokes on the front wheel (I went with steel & not carbon spokes because 1. cheaper but also 2. was afraid of excessive stiffness). February 19, 2024, 09:27:55 AM |
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Re: LTWOO ER9 & ERX - Electronic groepsets
I've installed 5 ER9 groups in the last 2 weeks. 1 gave me issues for some reason, but it was my fault. Make sure the limit screws are set properly, as well as the 3rd screw that sets the tension on the cage. The RD protects itself very quickly, so if any of the 3 screws are off, the cage wont shift. It's given me a new appreciation for my own incompetence and the fact that stuff usually works as long as it's installed and setup properly. During the builds i'm often thinking "this is such POS" but then an hour later, or a week later, i realize it's just me being incompetent / thick / tired. Did you unplug and reset? battery's charged? If you remove the wheel, does the RD shift? Are both FD & RD running the latest firmwares? EDIT: setting the 3 screws and calibrating the gears (as well as the FD) is somewhat of an iterative process. If you change a limit screw, your calibration of the RD is likely to need updating. I wont pretend that I understand how everything affects everything, but the point is the moment you change the tension on 1 screw, there's a decent chance the rest of the system is affected. And if ONE thing is off, everything can be off, and the RD tends to protect itself and refuse shifting until it's happy with alignments and what not. February 19, 2024, 09:39:54 AM |
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Re: My TanTan TT912 build
That looks GANGSTA! I suspect you're light and small, otherwise you wouldn't use a 50/34 on a TT bike, but FYI, you can get a REAR 140 to 180mm adaptor for cheap these days. Peak Torque sells expensive ones (I'm sure they're wonderful) but I found a cheap REAR one on bikeinn, and with mechanical brakes at the very least, bigger disks are better. I'm yet to find affordable front adaptors. I've built 4 bikes with these brakes, and 5 bikes with hydraulic brakes. I've used this very same BB. I tried using these bottles but they flew off the bike, they lasted me 1 ride. Best of luck with the mechanical shifting, will be curious to hear how it's working. Kudos on the KEB-SL compressionless Jagwire brake housing, I've used that too, and you can absolutely feel the difference compared to cheaper housing. It's a pity you're stuck in the middle of the build because of seller's mistakes though. Keep us posted. February 20, 2024, 07:20:23 AM |
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