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Re: Interesting Aliexpress finds! - good deals, interesting stuff, new products etc! Same. Ordered a pair of black Onirii BR05. All my recent purchases from Aliex have arrived within 2 weeks even though the delivery estimate said a month. I actually ordered Tanke earlier but canceled after reading up on it here. Thanks guys.
November 09, 2022, 10:08:23 AM
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Re: ICAN triaero A9 Have pulled the trigger and ordered ICAN A9 frame. The communication with Peggy was very nice, he could answer all my questions.
Ordered shipping to be scheduled on specific date. All in all with black friday discount was 1002 USD incuding shipping to Germany.
I will post here the pictures what I will get and hopefully the complete build.

December 03, 2022, 03:01:07 AM
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Re: LTWOO RX hydro sets I love that something like this finally exists. Groupset prices have gotten out of hand. However, this has Campagnolo written all over it. At least the shifters look like they're very closely "inspired" - the mechanism seems like a blatant copy of Campag's Power Shift. I wonder how they're getting around Patent infringements on this one.
The front derailleur is intriguing. It seems to be a genuine original design and I love that it incorporates a cable tensioner.

Question: What kind of pads are these calipers using? Is it an existing standard and are they easy to source? Or is it a proprietary design?

December 07, 2022, 03:38:20 AM
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Re: ICAN triaero A9
My A9 is finally arrived. Video review will follow, but here are some things I have noticed, which I can not judge myself, especially in the headset area.

That's a definite no from me. Bearing seat looks rough....

January 03, 2023, 10:48:03 AM
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Re: LTWOO RX hydro sets
Have you seen this video regarding the issues with shimano derailleur and aftermarket casettes? Maybe it is not the problem of the casette after all, but a change in Shimano designs to be compatible with no one else hahahhaa


I'm not entirely convinced with Trace Velo aka Luke's argument regarding aftermarket cassettes. I'm currently using 105 5800 11 speed shifters and R7000 RD + lightweight aftermarket 11-32t cassette. My setup shifts perfectly fine and that's also using an AliEx cheap OSPW cage. My belief is that shifting issues has more to do with the shifters themselves. Having used both Sensah Team Pro and LTwoo 11 speed Shimano compatible shifters, neither one can spot-on index like my current 105 and GRX shifters. I believe the shift tolerances are a bit more sloppy on aftermarket shifters. I think SRoad updated their road cassettes to shift a bit better as well.

Also I tend to prefer the shadow style RDs, I have a bad habit of dropping my bike on the drive side and the shadow design has saved my RD hanger from getting bent numerous times.

January 03, 2023, 03:06:03 PM
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Re: LTWOO RX hydro sets My opinion after dealing with countless issues is these aren't worth the price and there is no help. With sensah you basically received a sram clone easy to work on at a bargain price. These ltwoo are campy clones not easy to work on (no guides) and not cheap.


I've fixed a ton of issues on my own with no support from the seller or ltwoo.  Once more people run into issues the lack of help will show the frustration. 

There is 2 ways for replacing shifter cables.  Both ways are a pain.

 Shifter position and how much forced needed isn't easy to understand and I'm still working on it. Poorly adjusting or assembly can't really mess up the shifters. My shifters weren't assembled correctly and shifted like crap. To make the adjustments you need to remove the brake lever with two t10 then hope you can get a 3mm onto the screw for adjusting. At least that what I'm assuming.

Bleeding brakes is more effort than I've ever needed. The procedure to fully remove air isn't what I've ever done. I need to syringe from both the shifter and caliper. Caliper needs another t (star) Allen, I forgot the size).  You have to own a bleed kit with screw on fittings for the syringe. I'm guess the design is trapping air unless you force it out.

 You need a 10 and 8mm wrench or you will destroy the shifters brake line. The 10mm barely holds onto its bolt.

I hate the extra hardware needed for mounting brakes. I want a nice clean look not all these adapters and screws.

You're going to see a ton of positive unboxing vids but no experience really working on these.

I currently am using my gravel right shifter and road left. They have obviously changed something beyond just screening some words on the shifters. I haven't nor do I want to attempt to fully disassemble the internals without a guide.

In all the last 6 months of cycling products I've purchased so many have been worthless half finished products at excessive pricing.

January 26, 2023, 11:45:27 PM
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Re: Elves Falath EVO 2023 After watching the Cam Nicholls video, am I the only one who doesn't think this bike looks fast? It looks like it was designed to have the appearance of being aero from the side profile, but clearly fails in several areas. The frontal profile on the head tube and fork is super chunky compared to the Falath Pro. Everyone knows frontal area=drag. There's also a lot of weird tube profiles, the seat tube and gusset have a really square frontal profile, and the top-down cross-section of the head-tube right behind the steerer doesn't really taper, instead terminating in a chunky square flat back like on a Trek Madone. This area of the head-tube is probably the most important part to make as narrow as possible since it gets the cleanest air. But then the downtube narrows and never widens again to shield the water bottle. It's backwards of what you want, which is narrow up top and a wider, flatter back down low to shield the bottle. I just don't get it. I'm not an aerodynamics expert but this bike seems to just violate a bunch of aero principles I know of. I wouldn't be surprised if the outgoing model is faster with bottles on.

That and it's heavy. I initially saw online rumors that the frame would be ~900gr. Now 400 grams over that? Even heavier than the outgoing model? I can't see this being popular.

February 01, 2023, 09:17:49 PM
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Re: ICAN triaero A9
Any updates on this one Oleg? How was the warranty return experience?

So, good thing is that return is fully completed.
1. Money for the frame came immediately after I showed them post tracking.
Still I have lost 80 Euros on currency EUR-USD conversion from my credit card.
2. They have paid me return shipping, but after they have received the package, so 1 month later.

From that point of view, ICAN is a fair company. Peggy is also nice, but he can not handle the absence of QC in ICAN.
Timewise, I lost 1.5 month on handling the faulty frame. All in all, I went with Winspace T1500 frame, bought used. Now my LBS builds a bike for me.

February 06, 2023, 01:50:17 PM
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Re: Racework carbon fiber crankset feedback thread I'll post my general impressions first! I actually bought two Racework CF cranksets for my 2x road bike and my 1x gravel bike.

My positive impressions first:
The build quality at least for the drive side crank seems well-built. The axle despite being alloy seems fairly sturdy and the left crank arm is lightweight coming in at around 150g. The Racework 2x and 1x chainrings are actually quite nice and the 2x chainring is also lightweight compared to the other direct mount chainrings selling on AliEx. Shifting with the 2x chainring is actually really smooth on my Ultegra R8000 FD. The Racework 1x chainring also looks quite good and the teeth allow adequate engagement on the chain. It's also worth noting that the Racework crankset can mount Shimano left crank arms.

Now the cons:
There is zero documentation regarding torque specs or mounting the Racework crankset. In fact I had to do quite a bit of exploration myself to figure it out. First problems with the 2x setup: I ended up having to use 3 spacers that came with the supplied BB. My original 105 R7000 crankset worked fine with no spacers. I hadn't intended using the cheap AliEx BB, but there was definitely ramping pin rub when in the small 2x chainring when using no spacers. I ended up putting 2 spacers on the drive side and 1 spacer on the non drive side in order to make room for my cadence sensor. Yet in doing so this caused another problem. I ended up cracking my non-drive side crank arm when I was tightening the bolts. For my 2x setup, I ended up replacing the non-drive side crank arm with an Ultegra crank arm which ended up working quite well. The difference in weight is about 50g, but using a Shimano left crank arm is definitely more sturdier. Though if using the Racework carbon crank arm, I'd probably not mount any spacers on the non drive side. My high and low screws on the FD had to be readjusted as well. Once everything was sorted it, it does work well and you can really feel the weight reduction. The Racework Store I purchased the crankset from, promised to send me a replacement crank arm, but unfortunately I haven't seen or heard back anything from them.

Now the cons for the 1x setup. I first tried the 1x crankset on my press fit bike and I didn't use any spacers. Unfortunately this setup probably requires 1 PF compatible spacer between the PF BB and crankset either on the drive or non-drive side because there was noticeable creaking and I believe there must have been slight play. I eventually removed the 1x Racework crankset from that bike and placed it on my threaded BSA gravel bike and put 1 spacer on the non-drive side threaded BB cup in order to allow more room for my cadence sensor. With this setup, there was no creaking and I was able to use the left crank arm with no issue.

Regarding torque specs I've settled on 8nm for for the direct mount chainring bolts (which seems to be what SRAM recommends) and 8nm for the carbon crank arm. I'm hesitant to push Shimano's 12-14nm torque specs on the left crank arm bolts for fear of cracking my remaining carbon left crank arm.

My overall feedback is that you may or may not have issues depending on your BB type (PF or threaded) and also if you're running 1x or 2x. I think this crank probably works best on a thread BSA setup and most definitely in the 1x configuration. Chain line is very finicky when running 2x and takes a bit of tuning since it isn't a plug-n-play type affair. The biggest drawback for me is the crappy implementation of the left crank arm. The bolts are smaller than the Shimano left crank bolts and overall quite fragile. If you have a 170mm 105/Ultegra/Dura-Ace crank laying around, I'd just use that instead and remove 50g (150g vs 200g) elsewhere on the bike. You'll have peace of mind that your left crank arm won't break and you'll still benefit from the weight reduction of the entire setup.

BTW - I'm about 150 lbs./68kg and 174cm tall. I do mostly hill climbing and quite a bit of out of saddle riding, so far no issues regarding the alloy axle, though I'm keeping an eye on it.

February 27, 2023, 08:10:23 PM
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Re: Racework carbon fiber crankset feedback thread
Thanks for the info!  I've been looking at these because my Sram rival 1 crank is very heavy.  Sounds like a 1x with BSA threaded BB would be a safe option, so great writeup!

Once the crankset is dialed in, it works quite well. I did some heavy duty trail climbing yesterday on my 1x gravel bike and the crankset worked with no creaking and it was spinning smoothly. Also my 2x crank is properly setup and it's been working quite well. I believe the Racework 2x chainring is a ROTOR knock-off, but I actually like it. The flat chainring profile minimizes scratches and there's an outer chain catcher pin in case you get a chain drop. The back of the chainring has aero type ducts similar to Shimano 2x cranksets.

I am curious as to how production works with these AliEx components. For example, the alloy 7075 axle is the same one used on the direct mount Goldix cranksets. Also the Racework chainrings are sold under the Goldix and Zeroing brands. Though the Racework CF crankset so far appears to be exclusive to Racework. Also I did apply Wolftooth crank decals for extra protection.

February 27, 2023, 09:56:20 PM
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