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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
Quote from: toben on July 21, 2021, 10:36:18 PM
I am trying to find out how to secure the seatpost. Is there a clamp or something that keeps it from sliding down?

Here is my VBR 168 I am finally building. It is a dark metallic red but the pictures do not do it justice due to a lack of light. I will take more pictures in the daylight outside to show it off when I am done.

I went with a size 56 which is down a size so hopefully it fits. I am on the line between 56/58.

There should be a wedge included which you slide in the seat tube from the top, this wedge can be tightened using a hex bolt from the underside. I will share a picture of the wedge later today if needed.
July 22, 2021, 01:10:42 AM 		1
Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame Did my first 50km ride today! Love it!! Build went pretty smooth, only real pain was setting up the rear caliper without disc rubbing, but I managed to get it right in the end. Will post some more details later.
July 24, 2021, 07:14:07 AM 		1
Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame It's in the mail!

Interested to see how it turns out in person.  The chameleon red/black looks almost purple.
Also he said they painted the seat post, which I didn't ask for, but it might work out.

Edit: I am not smoking right? This is clearly Chameleon purple.
Should I care, or leave well enough alone?
August 04, 2021, 10:58:23 PM 		1
Re: Velobuild's price vs other options Here is my experience:

Chris is very responsive, and VB will accept custom paint schemes and decals for a price.
However, with VB it is best to keep the order as simple as possible, as their fulfillment system leaves much to be desired. 

They are prone to making mistakes on orders, even on straight forward items such as frame and handlebar size. 
While responsive, getting them to correct an order after shipping is near impossible.
They may make mistakes or switch parts and not tell you until the item has shipped.  This occured to me with the handlebar (model switched) and seatpost (incorrectly painted).
They will give you the run around, and eventually throw you a bone, but unless the mistake is severe, do not expect good post sales service.

They will quote 21 days, but expect up to 2 months.  Shipping by EMS took about 2 weeks.  I didn't pay duties

The frame I received was quite good.
Geo was correct, and weights were within specified, even with paint, axles, and hangers
A couple superficial scratches.  The carbon was mostly nice and clean internally.   The steerer was smooth, but deep in the fork were a lot of loose fibers. However, I understand this also is the case with some name brands.
The handlebar holes that interface with the spacers was slightly misaligned as were the mounting holes for the rear brake caliper.
The handlebar cavities were the sloppiest, with cables constantly catching on the carbon while routing.

The cable only caught in one place on the chainstay.
The BB hole was round and very clean. Super easy installing the BB

The front fork could use a cable port, as the exit hole for the brake cable is very shallow.  This results in some thin carbon around the hole.   While the brake cable easily went through, it did chip off carbon around the hole in the process.

No torque specs are given other than the thru axles.

In short, they make decent frames for the price.  They are disorganized and prone to making mistakes.
If you are patient, and they deliver as ordered, you'll likely be satisfied.
If you need post-sales help, god help you. 
September 03, 2021, 10:50:52 PM 		1
Re: Pinarello (Chinarello) Dogma F12 build It´s a 595mm frame in Osium White or F1209 as seller calls it. I choosed to replace the black with charmeleon in blue/purple shifting.
September 04, 2021, 05:35:43 AM 		1
Re: Pinarello (Chinarello) Dogma F12 build The battery mount wasn´t included for this frame so a friend printed one from this link. It will work after some sanding.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3305549/comments

A lot of parts to be mounted was orderered in july because of the  stock situation with everything. At this time seller said 67 weeks or 400 days before items come back in stock.

Minor sanding was needed on the fork before it could be fitted.

XLB bearings included with the frameset.

Di2 wires came very long. It was hard to find correct size so a lot of cable isn´t needed. I prepaired guide cables before mounting it.

I took Muc Off bio lube on this bike to everything. Minor sanding was needed to remove paint before bearings could be fitted.

BB68 bottom bracket. Very hard to know what torque should be used. Seller didn´t provide any. Shimano says 35-55 or so. I took 42nm on mine. Filing was needed before Di2 cable could be put into frame. Rubbercover is missing in the kit.
September 04, 2021, 06:03:00 AM 		1
Re: Pinarello (Chinarello) Dogma F12 build Chain has been cut and quick link is used. CN900 link with HG701 chain.

I use GP5000 TL 28mm and they measure 28,45mm on this rim. GP 4000 S2 25mm measured 28,51mm. TL mounted very easy but it was worse to blow them up without soap on the tire. It didn´t slip on easy.

I decided to glue the bar tape.

My front brake locked itself so I removed the hose and pushed the lever. One white plastic thing popped out then. I don´t know where it comes from but it is working good after this. Shimano easy joint hoses is used. I did bleed both front and rear after anyway. No air rear but of course on front.

First ride has been made. 28mm is a bit more heavy to steer. They feel softer on rough tarmac. Di2 programming need to be done with some shift points. B screw need minor adjustments to become tighter. Fork should be cut a bit lower for more aero position after bikefit. Probably 25mm instead of the current of 55mm.
September 04, 2021, 06:03:46 AM 		1
Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame Finally!  I've only had time to pick at the build 15-30minutes at a time so it took forever.
Wrong paint color notwithstanding, here are the other hiccups I experienced(mostly trivial):
- Brake cable exit hole on fork had some flaking carbon
- One of the Front brake mount screw holes was not deep enough, requiring use of an extra washer as a spacer
- Handlebar carbon is a bit messy inside making routing fiddly
- Rear brake mounts slightly misaligned, resulting in the slightest rub once per revolution (even if I manually open the Juin Tech calipers the whole way). It'll probably be fine once the pads are bedded
- some minor cosmetic scratches

And here is the good:
+ Weight was within specified, including hardware
+ Other than handlebars routing was super easy
+ Carbon looked super clean on the inside, other than deep in the fork
+ BB pressed in very cleanly

End build is a 1x12 based on the Sensah Empire Pro.
Showroom weight (without pedals) = 7.58kg
Weight with pedals and cages = 7.79kg
Real-world weight (with computer mount, computer, lights, Airtag, repair kit) = 8.6kg

UPDATE:  Included my parts and pricing.  All prices are Canadian Dollars, incl. taxes, duties, and shipping where applicable.  Weights are a mixture of estimates and actual, so differ from the final measured weight (probably some parts came in lower than advertised, and losses from cutting cables, handlebar tape, steerer, etc.)
September 09, 2021, 07:04:51 PM 		1
Re: Carbonda Cfr 1056 So, after the first few rides and tinkering a bit with setup, brakes etc I'm Really happy with the bike. It rides really well, handles nicely and predictably and is comfy for long rides (3h +).
In direct comparison with my other bike it takes slightly more effort to keep up higher pace. I wonder if I'd notice if I would not have been able to ride the bikes back-to-back.
It also "feels" slightly slower generally but I think that's due to the different tyres, where I ride this bike on vittoria corsa controls at 29mm wam (5 bar ~70 psi). The other bike is rim brake and I use pirelli race 27mm wam (5.4 bar, ~80 psi) . Power wise it's not noticeably different at anything other then the above mentioned higher pace. Maybe the extra 0.5kg also matters slightly.

The build is a mix of GRX and Ultegra components, due to availability and cost as well as preference for hood shape, ergo wave braking and (now it finally functions) the clutch on the rear derailleur for the "light gravel" round I intend to ride too.
I routed the shifter cables outside to prevent shifting issues (it shifts better then my other mech shifting bike where everything runs internally).

Main components:
1056 frame (58) and 1036 handlebar (11x42cm).
Grx 810 shifters, hydro brakes and rear derailleur.
Ultegra 50-34 crank175mm, 11-32 cassette, Rd8000 front derailleur and hg701 chain.
Ultegra pedals.
Farsports Feder 45mm, 28mm outside 21 inside on carbon ti hub, brass nipples and cx sprint drive side spokes (unbelievably light combination), vittoria corsa control 28mm, latex tube.
Xtr rotors 160mm front and rear

Small parts:
Sq labs active 612 14cm
Close the gap garmin mount + bell
ZTTO handlebar tape (very much like lizardskin, recommended!)
Tacx bottle holders
Bontrager flare light

Total weight 8.3kg


Issues while building :
The front cable guide  :o, with the new guides in the house I'll replace it with a proper one as soon as I feel like swapping the front derailleur cable.
The rear axle drive side "holder" was tight. Replaced it with one of the spares and problem solved.
The lower screw of the front brake caliper is quite tight, I guess some resin left over, it works and holds well however it was not super easy to get the caliper in perfect position.
And I forgot to add cable foam on the rear hydro brake cable  :-\ brakes are super tight now so I don't feel undoing "just because".

Left to do:
Find rubber grommet for the hydro hose entry point on the front left, which I don't use. Anyone know a fitting one?
Decide whether I want to go down another 5mm or keep it like this.




September 10, 2021, 06:07:21 AM 		1
Re: Carbonda Cfr 1056 Hi, yes 160mm fits with adapter.

Advice: read the whole topic and note all the issues, remarks, tips in there. If you build yourself it is useful to have, if you'll ask a shop it might be useful for them.

If you have mechanical brakes the ztto hydro-mech brakes are ok, the juin tech apparently are really good(no experience myself). Do use compressionless housing, and consider external routing because they are hard to route internal.

Some tips:
Decide if you want internal routing or external to figure out which fork.
Do you want it painted? Go check what you like and pantone colours.
Headset is choice between Carbonda or FSA. The latter is slightly nicer, especially the expander works better.
Thru axles from Carbonda are OK (they used to be a bit soft, the newer ones are much better), there are better options on the market at a cost (120usd vs 25 usd for a set of fr+re).
Ask for/order extra spare parts. Specifically seat tube clamp and bottom frame guide for front derailleur cable.



September 20, 2021, 02:54:02 AM 		1