Chinese Carbon MTB Forums
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Re: RIRO cassette failure
It shouldn't break like that if it's a decent grade of well machined alu. But it probably isn't, hence the result. If you have an all alu cassette, then the smaller cogs are vulnerable. But big cogs after very little riding is a sign of poor quality.
May 06, 2024, 06:23:22 PM |
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Re: Tavelo Aero Frame
The overwhelming majority of frames I've been able to review were paid for out of pocket. At full price. I would love to review the new SEKA Spear or Tavelo Arow, but the price point is difficult no matter how excited I am for both of them. I've actually been saving up to purchase one of these frames or the Bross Zenith. However, earlier this week I was offered a deal on an SL8 Pro (non S-Works) frameset. It wasn't a huge discount, but enough to sway me away from Tavelo/Seka/Bross. And this is the conundrum I see customers facing. Spend a little more to get local bike shop support and a western brand warranty. May 09, 2024, 09:43:06 AM |
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Re: Tavelo Aero Frame
Current Fleet - This is abhorrentSomeone buy this man a bigger garage May 10, 2024, 03:14:48 PM |
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Re: Any idea of Serenadebikes carbon wheelset?
I'll chime in here. I've done 3000k on this set of Serenade Wheels. They market this as their Allroad/Gravel wheels but I think it really is basically a modern road wheelset. 55deep/31wide/25internal, DT Ratchet style straight pull hubs compatible with DT Swiss freehubs, Pillar Wing 20 spokes (24 front and back) and aluminium nipples, 1450g total weight. I bought them with hooked sidewalls, but they're also available in hookless if that's what you want. The pictures show these with 28mm Vittoria Corsas. They come up just shy of 31mm on these wheels and form a nice transition between rim and tire, as you can see. Performance wise, they're fast. I paid roughly 480 EUR including shipping and taxes and I think this is all the wheelset you could ever ask for for that kind of money. The only thing I can criticize is the hubs. I rode these through a very wet winter. The bearings in the front hub started sounding rough in very little time. They turned out to be basically dry with no grease, so they corroded quickly. I replaced them with a set of high quality SKF bearings. The wheels roll fine ever since. The rear hub bearings are still smooth. But I think if you wanted a tad more performance, you should opt for better hubs. Serenade offers all kinds of hub choices including genuine DT Swiss hubs. Also, I think Centerlock is a useless standard. The rotors are more expensive. The fitment is not a good as 6 bolt. Just my personal opinion. If I was given the choice again, I'd probably go with 6 bolt interface hubs. Buying experience with Serenade was OK but not stellar. While pricing is good, the communication was a bit lacking at times. That's one thing I'd recommend you guys improve on. I only really received updates when asking. They were quick to answer any questions upon ordering and VERY SLOW to answer questions on delivery, once the payment was made. That's a bit of a pattern with a lot of chinese sellers IME. All in all, I can recommend SERENADE. Please note: I was told that they are a reseller rather than a manufacturer, sourcing their parts from all kinds of factories. Maybe you can tell us more about that here. May 15, 2024, 05:30:34 AM |
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Re: Deerobust/Goldix wheel build 50/55mm 1319g
If this really is your first ever wheelbuild then you chose something with quite the steep learning curve  I've been building wheels for many years. I started out with rim brake alloy wheel stuff mostly for commuters and urban bikes, like lacing wheels with hub dynamos and stuff for myself and friends. From there I went to building more complex spoke patterns and carbon wheels and so on. I agree with most of your choices except for two: A 2:1 spoke ratio made a lot of sense on rim brake rear wheels IMO, where one side took all the torsional load and therefore is laced in a 3 cross pattern while the other side can be laced radially (which is how the Ford factory did it way back on laced car wheels when they invented the idea). It made sense because of the drastic difference in spoke angles with the DS spokes being much further inboard due to the cassette. Ever since disc brakes, both side's spokes had to move inboard and the difference in spoke angle and tension isn't as bad as it used to be. So the advantage of 2:1 isn't really as big as it used to be. Personally, I stopped doing it. I do think that asymmetric rear rims with a slight offset to the NDS make sense to further correct the difference in spoke angles. But that's about it. The other thing is internal nipples. I think it's not worth the hassle. Sure, you chose superlight rims so it might be better to err on the side of caution. But I think Enve's argument that this makes a sturdier rim is marketing bogus. What is much more important is that the rim bed is reinforced as a whole, which is the case with most carbon rims. And it's important that the spoke holes are drilled cleanly and accurately in exactly the correct angles, so as to not cause stress at the nipples and threads due to bending moments. This is the case with most well made rims, but I had bad examples from some Chinese sellers. Like you, I've sourced rims from various Aliexpress sellers over the years. The aero benefit of internal nipples might be there. Honestly, I don't care. If you ever choose to run your wheels tubeless it'll be a huge PITA to access the nipples should you ever have to. Also, since weight seems important to you, it'll increase spoke length and therfore makes the wheel marginally heavier. A well built wheel will usually not go out of true. But there can be incidents like hitting pot holes in a race or whatever. But like many things in wheelbuilding, this is just my philosophy. I think you did a stellar job and built a super impressive wheelset. Congrats! And it's a really nice feeling to be riding around on one of a kind wheels that you yourself built. May 16, 2024, 12:29:06 AM |
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Re: Transferring Components from a Damaged Giant Defy 1 to a New Frame
I am considering either an ICAN A22 (I love the black color) or an ELVES Avari Pro. The ELVES is UCI approved, unlike the ICAN. the ican is quite old with recommended 25/28C tyres. That's very much not future proof. the elves is surprisingly heavy (baby size 990g) and maxes out at 30C. Have a look at sp cycle SP-R025-SL - you can get it for cheaper than what the website says. SP cycle = Tideace = haidelibicycle.com = disai. So if you email all of them you'll get the best deal. SP Cycle has several models you may like. Lightcarbon has a model or 2 you'll like I really like my long teng 268. Velobuild is now consistently making nice frames, the 268 is proving very popular. Given the elves look like an endurance bike, the yishun R1018 may be good for you - super light, monocoque -. I would never buy an ican nor an elves myself  Re. tools, have a look at a few bike builds video on YT. you'll quickly notice what tools you need. May 22, 2024, 09:24:50 AM |
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Re: Transferring Components from a Damaged Giant Defy 1 to a New Frame
I've transferred components multiple times to different frames. You'll most likely run into issues, spilt hydraulic fluid and questioning your life decisions. At that point go to bed and start fresh the next morning! The bike building skills you'll develop will rival all but the most old school LBS mechanics. Nowadays, I feel I can tune any bike into perfection. Don't be shy and feel free to ask questions! May 22, 2024, 09:36:02 AM |
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Re: Looking for a gravel frame closely similar to the Specialized Crux
The new Ican Gaero 2024 seems like it may be worth a look
May 25, 2024, 03:20:53 PM |
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Re: Interesting Aliexpress finds! - good deals, interesting stuff, new products etc!
Ryet is trash
June 03, 2024, 12:08:07 PM |
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Re: Interesting Aliexpress finds! - good deals, interesting stuff, new products etc!
That's not shimano spacing but I'm sure you're already aware of thatThe one I purchased has very close to Shimano cog spacing. It is specified for R9270 and R8170 Shimano groups. I am running one of these. Spacing between cogs is very close to 3.55mm, and not SRAM's 3.65mm. (I have assumed that the "ULT Series" is referring to Ultegra, not its weight.) I could be wrong, but I was running a Shimano Ultegra 12 speed cassette, and had another 700C rear XDR wheel. I put on the new wheel with this ZTTO cassette and I didn't have to make any adjustments. Shifts are as smooth as the Ultegra cassette I was running. June 16, 2024, 07:52:34 PM |
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