Chinese Carbon MTB Forums
News:
Happy Holidays!
See likes
See likes given/taken
| Post info | No. of Likes |
|---|---|
|
Re: Yoeleo G21 - Yoeleo's New Gravel Frameset
Some quick shots of my gravel setup. I originally was running ENVE G23 gravel wheels until my Yoeleo wheels arrived. Obviously...Yoeleo would prefer me to review their matching wheels. June 03, 2022, 03:40:00 PM |
1 |
|
Re: How I painted my frame
amazing work, it will help a lot of people, as well as me. When I check the product you used they look like the one recommended by Etoe on Youtube, maybe you watched his videos. June 05, 2022, 01:51:14 AM |
1 |
|
Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
NS Manual: ".........the frame is disigned to work with single crown xc forks with up to 120mm of travel................use differnet style of forks or forks with longer travel my result in frame failure , possible injury....." The frame is designed for XC in terms of weight. But most people here want to use it for trail or enduro. You can see this in the statements you keep reading: tendency to recommend a larger frame with a very short stem; search for more suspension travel, "spirit of the (I think he means downhill) bike" ......I think: the real spirit (from the manufacturer) is XC with 100/100mm! You can do everything, but please don't be surprised if a part fails. June 05, 2022, 05:38:41 AM |
1 |
|
Re: How I painted my frame
Wow, this was great, thanks for sharing. My good friend is about to attempt painting his son's frame, I'll link him to this thread.
June 05, 2022, 08:48:48 AM |
1 |
|
New Wheelset - Magene Exar DB58Pro Disc
Howdy lovely people, These just arrived from China (technically BC, Canada): Magene EXAR DB58Pro Disc Depth: 58mm External: 27mm (advertised) Internal: 20mm (advertised) Straight pull spokes. Not sure yet if they're carbon or CX Ray Tubeless Rim Tape Installed By Factory So Magene contacted me via IG to review these wheels. Honestly at first I thought it was a total scam because the IG account they contacted me from had literally zero followers and not a single IG post. But two weeks later here we are. There doesn't seem to be much (easily) accessible info on these line of wheels, and I'm still waiting for Magene to provide their official press release details including advertised weight and retail price. Once I hear back I can then begin providing further details in this thread. Stay Tuned! June 06, 2022, 04:13:16 PM |
1 |
|
Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
@carbonazza/@patliean1: Thanks for the advice. The housing was low compression, but I decided not to risk it. No part of this build was hacky (unlike my first one) so I decided to keep its genesis pristine and swap the cables. Wife was happy with its maiden voyage today. I didn't do a great job of cataloging the build process, but you can see some it here along with the bill of materials: https://www.superego.ai/ken/margarets-bike-build June 07, 2022, 04:05:13 AM |
1 |
|
I Am Slowly Getting Fed Up (Crybaby Rant)
This week has been a disaster for Chinese brands. I've seen forum users in here, myself, and viewers of my videos all get treated unfavorable as customers. The same brands I've highlighted on my channel. True we have come to accept the small quirks and extra effort required in exchange for saving a few dollars on a frameset and wheels. Mistakes happen across all price points from bike brands. However, this underlying attitude from these companies is reaching a boiling point for me. I don't believe in the philosophy of "the customer is always right" but..."making things right/fair" should at least be a priority especially if a company actually cares about their public perception. Here are few examples....from just this week. #1 - I recently posted a video about my favorite Chinese cycling apparel brand. Yesterday a viewer subsequently made a purchase of a particular jersey. The brand then contacted the customer to tell him the style he wanted was sold out, despite the website showing in stock in his size. The brand refused to refund him his money and told him simply to "select another style." That's not how customer service works. #2 - Being sent a set of wheels to review only to discover the end caps are faulty. I appreciate the brand immediately responding and admitting fault for sending me a pre-production wheelset. However, I have no assurance (other than their word) this wont affect future (paying) customers in the production version. Why wasn't this issue caught during the testing phase? And how do I know paying customers will be treated with the same level of customer service? #3 - Both the Elite Wheels and VeloBuild wheel issues this week. Ehhhh I'll just leave it at that... This may sound radical but, sometimes the customer is actually right. The sad thing is I have YET to see any of these budget/open mold brands openly take full accountability for the clear cut mistakes. Refusing to honor warrant claims, offering only partial refunds, ghosting customers, bait & switch tactics, and asking the customer to pay for postage for missing components is disappointing. I can't continue to fully support/endorse the sub-$1000 brands if they aren't making strides to improve their customer service. And this is despite personally having a generally positive experience with all of them. The root issue isn't "cHiNeSe bRaNdS" like Reddit wants you to believe. It's customer service. June 17, 2022, 11:22:54 AM |
1 |
|
Re: Onirii M2 and M4 hydraulic disc brakes
Finally got round to fitting them a few days ago, after a bout of illness has stopped me going out. So not used in anger yet, but I thought I'd give a few details on how it's gone. Firstly, they come set up front left hand. which, being British is all wrong for me. First thing to do was swap the levers. This was as easy as it is with any brake. 8mm spanner at the lever, undo, pull out hose, swap round and luckily no need for a new olive. The hose is fairly flexible, but doesn't seem to need, nor come with, a barbed end reinforcing thingamy. Now, I said the separate lever and caliper and hose didn't come filled. that was wrong. the lever has a screw in cap in the end with 10mm spanner flats. the hose has a small screw with a rubber seal to seal the end. fitting is a doddle. cut to length, remove caps and screw, fit lever rubber cap, screw thread compression bit and olive. pop it all together and nip it up. in theory you shouldn't need to bleed it. however I will. I say will, as the bleed nipples are not a size I've got. the caliper end is M3 (I think), the lever end is M5. I have a multi size kit coming, so I'll update on ease of bleed and exact sizes. Fitting the calipers to the bike is easy, as you'd expect. The levers are easy enough, it's a similar type setup as avid/sram used, a wrap around clamp with a bolt that runs through the lever but it's worth noting that the edges of the clamp are quite sharp, so watch those carbon bars and make sure the bolt is undone more than needed when adjusting the angle of the lever. The lever fixing bolt is a torx, couldn't say exactly which size, a T20 sort of fits, but is slack. T25 doesn't fit. it's like a t23, if that was even a size. fairly typical for chinese bolts to be a more vague size than expected. it is steel though, and you do need to give it a bit more effort to close the clamp. I'm going to look for replacements fairly quickly. Back to the calipers, the pads on the X2 are shimano G04/G03 size. The stock pads look cheaper than anything I've seen before. I swapped them out with a set of used pads from my SLX/XT brakes to give them a try. Aligning the calipers is easy, but for my bike needed a little fine tuning as they run close to the rotor. first 'up and down the road' brake test was a little underwhelming. modulation was good, but ultimate power seemed to taper off a little. Now, I'm 90kg (give or take a few portions of cheesecake) and run a 180 rotor up front and 160 at the back, so figured maybe that was it. Then they started to squeal...and squeal. so, back to the workshop to remove the glazing from the pads and clean them up. decided to go with new pads instead of the well used ones, just to give the brakes a fair trial. bought new resin pads, didn't want to risk the additional heat build up from sintered, even though they are my preferred in shimano brakes. Cleaned up the rotors with brake cleaner, cleaned up the caliper pistons, just to make sure there was no oil in there too, a light sanding of the new pads prior to fitting and out I go for a couple of road hill reps to bed the pads in. immediately different from the near outset. Modulation is on par with my shimano's, albeit the final bite comes a little longer in, but ultimate power had me endoing down the hill, even with my butt hanging off the back of the saddle. All pretty controllable too, had a couple of nice nose rollers balanced, to my surprise. The lever feels firm to use, little flex in the lever and only a bit in the lever body on the bar. It has enough shape not to be too narrow and not to wide. it reminds me of the feel of my old Hope Mono Mini's, but with more bite. ultimate proof will be in the longer riding though, but so far, I'm hopeful (no pun intended) :-) July 04, 2022, 05:55:50 AM |
1 |
|
Re: Chinese Carbon 29er Pic Thread.
A few different angles:
July 06, 2022, 12:21:05 PM |
1 |
|
Re: Himalo Frames?
Still using 'er daily! Decided to get a cumulative weight. Me, with clothing, shoes, pocket schmoo: 180lbs bike: 40-45lbs Motor+battery: 20lbs Other accessories - rack, headlights, kickstand, panniers: another 8-10 or so Backpack: ~5lbs Lock: ~5lbs Groceries: 30-40lbs Total rolling weight? Just shy of 300. Not the heaviest thing out there. But definitely far from lightweight. Frame and other components have yet to skip a beat. Get shat on by the bike guys for using 'cheap' parts. But ya know what? 300lbs with a motor on it and nothing's showing any fatigue as of yet? I'm pleased as punch. For the himalo 180 fork: it's not an oil bath system. It's just greased internally. The grease gets wiped away from the moving parts periodically. What I've done to minimize maintenance and labor time after seeing the inside (it's literally just bushings and a dust wiper) is replace the screws on the back of the fork with some low-profile grease fittings. Whenever it starts to feel like it's moving low speed bump sensitivity, I toss a pump or 2 of grease in there and cycle the thing. The stuff I'm using is just what I had on hand, NLGI2 silicone grease. Using a grade 0 semi-fluid grease would probably be better. But meh. Cheap fork = I can't be bothered to split hairs on maintenance. But so far, it's been a champ. I also put about 5ml of motor oil into the air chamber to take up some volume as I found I was hitting my front fender on bottom-out. Only thing I've noticed is that the compression adjust (lockout) seems to spin at the end of the clicks vs. coming to a firm stop. Functionality doesn't seem to be otherwise affected. Happy with it so far! On the DNM rear shock: Nothing to note there. Haven't paid close enough attention to see if I've needed to add air or not since I tend to adjust it quite a bit depending on the riding I'm doing. For the frame: Haven't had any issues with the bearings in there, or the pivots loosening up since I did that loctite+retighten operation. The paint on there will chip if it gets smacked by a rock. But the cheapest black satin primer/paint from the local store matches it close enough for my needs. Rolling weight: https://imgur.com/DJFJE0w Grease fitting: https://imgur.com/Wa8cd72 July 07, 2022, 12:07:14 PM |
1 |