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Re: Carbon-repair process of my TFSA (SL6 clone) frame
This morning I removed the tape and protective plastic to see the result. It is not very aesthetically pleasing but that is just because I will be leaving it like this and will not be sanding and painting... Structurally it looks very solid. The sound when tapping on the tube sounds exactly the same on the repair than it does on the rest of the tube and there is no flex. I think I actually would be OK to use this frame as my outdoor frame if I would not have ordered a new one already... Things I could have done better:
 
July 31, 2023, 01:43:06 AM |
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Re: Hygge Aero Carbon Frame
Edit: removed post because of Hygge stealing my pictures.
August 12, 2023, 07:30:35 AM |
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Re: Groupset News
Just spotted Sensah Empire HRD 11 speed for sale on Aliexpress. Price is $249 for shifters, disc brake calipers, and derailleurs. Looks promising! Thanks for that - I've done a little groupset comparison for anyone interested in the current state of the market for hydraulic groupsets. I have used official store prices for Ltwoo and Sensah. All items are shifters, brakes and derailleurs unless indicated otherwise. All prices include postage where relevant (to Australia - not sure how it differs for other markets). Mechanical Code: [Select] | Groupset Name | USD | Link |Electronic: Code: [Select] | Groupset Name | USD | Link | Notes |Gravel: Code: [Select] | Groupset Name | USD | Link | Notes |
September 09, 2023, 11:41:08 PM |
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Re: Chinese cycling clothes
Add my .02$ here https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805157092372.html These are amazing and my favorite bib purchase so far from ali. They fit true to size. 185cm and I am size M https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804601228289.htm These fit a bit tighter at the same size as above and an older style. Not as nice as above I will use for indoor training. A bit tighter fitting also a size M https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805769134049.html Fit of these is inbetween the two above. Only being a little tighter than the top bib. Did a 50 mile ride in them and it was great. Also a size M September 19, 2023, 07:18:24 AM |
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Re: TanTan TT-X38 Build
Quick update on mine. I'm approaching 500km and I've ironed out all the small details and issues. Currently where I live, it's either dark, raining or snowing so I've been riding this bike pretty much exclusively on the trainer for the last few weeks. I faced the disc brake mounts and now the brakes are perfectly free of rub. I bought this little tool from Icetoolz that I really was quite skeptical about. But it worked a treat. It's nowhere near to what workshops are using but it's way better than using sandpaper. Also, I swapped the cheap lockrings for original ones from Shimano. I can still rock the rotors back and forth on the hubs. I used a washer on the front. That improved the issue but it didn't completely stop it. At this point, I'm just going to accept that that's how it is with Centerlock rotors apparently. Still, if you're used to 6 bolt rotors which obviously stay put where they are, are lighter and cheaper, it's a bit hard to accept honestly. I could have bought the wheelset with 6 bolt hubs, had I wanted to. Looking back, I wish I did. Speaking of the hubs. After just two rides in the wet, the front hub started sounding super rough. I popped away the bearing seals to find that they were bone dry. I greased them but it's too late I reckon. I will be able to ride them a bit longer but I guess the bearing races and balls are already corroded to the point where grease will only delay the inevitable. They're regular 6802s and easy to replace. This is a 500 EUR wheelset after all, so I guess it was bound to happen. I put on 175mm Sram cranks and these super cheap pedals from Xpedo (I know, the name). These are real gems. They are rock solid. They have a very wide range of adjustment and they are only around 230g whilst having a very wide platform. They are identical in size with the Favero Assiomas I have on my other bike so they feel like home to me. And they cost just 40 EUR. If you like the Look pedal standard, these are a steal. All in all, I'm super happy with the bike. I will eventually upgrade it to 12sp bc I do notice it compared to my 12sp road bike. There are one or two gear jumps which are a tad too big for my liking. The LTWOO groupset is just super easy to live with. I like it a lot. It shifts very smooth and never really skips a beat. The only criticism I really have is the tactile feel of the shifter buttons. It's too vague for my liking. And shifting feels slow at times. You get used to it and it's not really a deal breaker. But I'm used to Campy Record 12sp on my other bike which is probably the most direct feeling mechanical drivetrain there is. The moment you move the paddle is when the shift happens. Compare that to clicking a button, waiting for the ECU to compute the command and only then does the derailleur move, it just feels slow. It all happens in milliseconds but it's still noticeably slower. Still, I take this over having to route 2 shift cables and 2 brake lines through a headset bearing any day. Sorry for the huge photos. After the lates update, iOS won't let me resize the images anymore. November 28, 2023, 03:47:18 AM |
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Re: Consensus on replica frames ??
Just wanted to update on my "FaCtOr OsTrO VaM" build, weighed in at 6.96 after pedals, cages and comp mount.     December 25, 2023, 10:19:55 PM |
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Re: Consensus on replica frames ??
There is a lot of space between a frame being safe to ride and being the quality you see even on second tier frames from the big brands. It’s worth thinking about the economics of a replica frame selling for $500 painted up as a Factor or Pinarello. I know that it would cost me about $2000-$3000 USD to get a contract manufacturer to make, design a layup for and test a handlebar. I would guess that a frame would be on the order $10k-$12k. It’s probably a breakeven at 50 units at a factory cost of $300 and 30 at less than $200 to make money on a replica frame. To sell 30 frames, you probably need them to pass basic fatigue and safety tests to make sure you can sell even that many. Your don't have much additional budget for development so other than a 3d scan of each frame size to get the shape right and some basic cad work to smooth out the details from the relatively low resolution of that scan, and then work to get the layup good enough to pass the testing. There isn't much budget for additional work. While external tube shape is the majority of the strength of a tube, thickness still matters for stiffness. Because you are using lower quality materials you will end up with thicker tubes, a really stiff bike, and a heavier frame. Its probably been tested enough that it wont break, but will also likely inherit the flaws of the original design because on the outside, it needs to look like the same. In the case of Factor, they replaced their headset assemblies and changed the design since the Ostro VAM was pulled from competition in 2021 due to sheared steerer tubes. Are you getting the corrected versions of the parts on the Ostro VAM replica? Are the parts even of sufficient quality to avoid the problems that led to the re-design? Can these replica makers get the details of a C shaped steerer right enough to be reliable in the long run? What about the headset and derailleur hanger hardware? Potential headset issues also track with the flaws seen on Cervelo replicas which also use a non-round steerer. The Pinarello Dogma F suffers from a surprisingly high incidence of cracked seatstays and chainstays as a result of the asymmetric design. The Velobuild version also seems to have this problem. Plus you get bonus headset problems. An open mold is usually a little more expensive. But, because it's a clean sheet design, they are going to design it in CAD and run the basic FEA stuff and use the results to iterate the design. They have both a good understanding of where / how to adjust the layup and the freedom to change tube shapes to get the performance they are looking for. It looks more generic, but the engineer and designers are incentivized to maximize compatibility with 3rd party components and make the best riding bike they can within their budget because they are looking to secure sales for dozens of bikes with multiple small brands. As a result, these bikes almost always use forks with round steerers and common headset sizes that are easier to design, to make to a high standard, and possible to source from 3rd parties. A branded version of one of these open mold frames from a brand that does development like a Cinelli or a Guerciotti might ask for layup adjustment, will do some additional QC and swap out the generic hardware for branded FSA or Deda versions. They might stick them in a wind tunnel to help find the right handlebar and wheels to sell with the frame. They might also swap the fork. These bikes win big races at the U23 and junior levels, cost 3x as much, but generally speaking most reviewers will say they fall short of the mid-range bikes from the big brands. Is the replica safe to ride? Probably, but the commercial motivations are totally different and there is a reason why the open mold is more likely to have the details sorted. So yes, there is an inherent reason why the replica is likely to be a worse bike. January 01, 2024, 04:19:05 PM |
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Patty's Long Rant and Guide To Affordable Frames
I’m going to be honest here: I very much miss the glory days of this forum during the pandemic years. It was a perfect storm. People were stuck at home with extra discretionary income and free-time, while major bike brands were dealing with fulfillment delays. The rise of Chinese alternatives during this time brought so much excitement to this forum. Forum members were passionate about helping each other, and the overall vibe felt like a positive community of budget-minded enthusiasts. You could easily spend hours each day reading pages upon pages of new posts. The forum was basically a party everyday. I’m lucky to have joined during COVID. Now I don’t proclaim to be perfect or infallible to constructive criticism. Quite frankly, the support of this forum is a large reason why my YouTube platform even exists. I cannot thank you all enough. Sadly, a lot of the super experienced members don’t come here as often anymore. Perhaps the negative vibes these past 12 months ran them away or just simply their needs changed. Who knows… What I do know is I plan to keep supporting the forum as long as it makes sense. I’ve started to review more mainstream bikes, but my heart will always have a place for affordable Chinese frames/wheels. It’s how I got my start (Yoeleo R6). I wanted to write up a quick guide for anyone looking to jump into the world of “cheap” Chinese bikes. While I made a video on this very topic over a year ago, a reminder never hurt anyone. PLEASE feel free to add your insight and guidance below. Step 1: Passion Project vs Functionality As a cycling reviewer, I obviously don’t have any emotional attachments to my bikes. Except for my believed T1500. To me it’s about being functional and fast. If the “best” frame for (my) price range and riding style only offers matte black…I’ll take it every time. Custom paint means nothing to me if the frame is either a noodle or destroys my back. But I’m a performance-first person. Step 2: Riding Style and Geometry Can you slam your stem? Cool for you. Do you prefer an endurance style bike? Also very cool. Geometry is critical obviously. I cannot stress seeking a professional bike fit enough. Or just comparing your current bike to your target bikes using something like Geometry Geeks. Step 3: Budget vs “True” Budget If your budget is “only $600” for a frame, ask yourself if an extra $300 will be significant to you a year from now. How about an extra $500? How about two years from now? Buy nice or buy twice. Might be worth spending the extra money if you plan to keep your bike for longer than two years. But be warned: cheap bikes are addicting. Step 4: What is your “pain” threshold for cheap bikes? Cheap bikes are cheap bikes for a reason. Sort of. The value-add for these types of bikes is you are willing to put in the work yourself to troubleshoot, should bike build problems arise. If you do however find yourself frustrated, fear not! The forum is here to help. Typically the more you spend, the less potential for problems to arise. Or the brand will be faster to rectify. Unless you’re Yoeleo…  Patty’s Brand Picks $500 - VeloBuild - Custom paint, decent customer service, and solid provided hardware. Both the VB-177 and CX002 are very solid frames for the price. Won’t be the best performing frames ever, but they are “good enough.” You won’t get dropped from a race or fast group ride due to these frames. $1000 or less - Yishun/Light Carbon - No question one of the best affordable brands/frames you can buy without spending money on a Winspace. Sadly…paint options and frame availability may be questionable since (Yishun) is setup for B2B. But the quality and performance is all there. Fit and finish is really good, except for the plastic headset dust cover on my particular application. $1600 or less - Winspace - The T1500 has been talked about to death now for 4 years so there really isn’t anything left to cover. If you have the budget for it…buy it. Proven race bike. Fit and finish on par with the major brands. Wheel Brand Recognition - Elite Wheels, Winspace, and Magene - All 3 brands are great at what they do. The main thing these brands all have in common is they offer solid customer service. Each of them secretly lurk these forums, which means they are making an effort to listen to what customers want. Despite the fact Yoeleo makes solid bikes too, their customer service has been awful (again) based on customer feedback sent my way. Unfortunately my dealings with these brands for reviews does not translate to me being able to escalate customer complaints. Always remember the forum is here to help. There are no stupid questions if you’ve taken a little bit of time to research previous threads and watch a few YouTube videos. The more honest and transparent we all are with our questions, the quicker and meaningful the responses will come. Spend the love! January 25, 2024, 04:12:15 PM |
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Re: Patty's Long Rant and Guide To Affordable Frames
Great post Pat! 10. VeloBuild VB-168 9. Dengfu R12 (harshest on the list) 8. TanTan X38 7. VeloBuild VB-177 6. Yoeleo R12 5. 2022 Allez Sprint (most versatile) 4. Yishun R086-D 3. Tavelo Attack (lightest frameset) 2. Giant Propel Advanced Pro 1. Winspace T1500 (best value) Notes: -The Dengfu R12 is SUPER stiff. Stiffer than the 168, 177, X38, and R12. Perfect if responsiveness is important to you. However, even with 28c tires it’s tough to live with everyday. Although I've done 160km rides on it LoL. Dengfu discontinued it I think. -I’m planning to rebuild my X38 this season. Originally I had to donor the SRAM eTap groupset for my Yishun build. It’s a great looking frame, stands out among other Chinese builds. Makes for a good coffee ride bike, but it could not be my only road bike option. I just found the overall ride dynamics to be neutral and somewhat clumsy, even after initially thinking it was a super stiff ride. YMMV. -Had I bought my Tavelo Attack before my Giant Propel…I probably would not have bought the Propel. The Tavelo offers 9/10 the dynamics of the Propel for half the price. However, the extra 10% is still noticeable. Having the support of a local bike shop/Giant dealer and essentially a “no questions asked” warranty policy has come in handy for me. -The biggest disappointment has been both the VB-168 and the Yoeleo R12. The 168 (my particular frame) is a noodle. But the geometry works so well for me. Yoeleo advertises the R12 has a race bike. It is not. Big brand quality paint, 32-34c tire clearance, and great fit and finish. Packaging is some of the best in the biz, better than Giant and Specialized. But it truly is an endurance bike. For the price of the R12 you could almost buy a Yishun/LC frame and a set of wheels from Leon/Yuanan which is a far more compelling offering. January 26, 2024, 09:30:14 AM |
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Re: Patty's Long Rant and Guide To Affordable Frames
Is there anyone else on here who just rides for fitness? I actually don't follow bike brands, components, etc. as long as it's functional and hits a target price point. I just try to make sure my bike fit is good, mechanics are pristine and weight+aero positioning is optimized. I'd rather focus on nutrition, rest recovery, cardio and strength training. Plus I guess I'm more down the rabbit hole than most, since I can take advantage of questionable weight limited components and smaller/stiffer bike frames. I somewhat enjoy trying obscure and unknown bike frames/parts!
January 30, 2024, 11:57:37 AM |
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