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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
Finally finished my build, and of course it a rainy day After a couple of rides I'll give some impressions and specs, with some better pictures. August 27, 2021, 01:54:38 AM |
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Re: Your thought on Sunshine cassette instead of Ultegra
Where did you get the lightwight ones ? https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005002354088200.html Also sold by a couple of other brands like ZTTO, Goldix and so on. August 27, 2021, 09:17:53 AM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
Hi, You'll need something like this: https://a.aliexpress.com/_mr7N1sJ It looks like it actually comes with a proper phone clip so as long as you also have a compatible phone case it should be nice and secure! August 29, 2021, 12:10:41 AM |
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VeloBuild VB-R-068 Build thread
Hey all, so I finally got my frame from VB about two weeks ago and finished building it last weekend but was only able to ride it for the first time this past Saturday and Sunday due to life stuff. I'm coming from riding a Cervelo P3 that I converted into an aero road bike. It was actually really fun and fast but there were some issues that I just couldn't fix/get dialed in to my liking. Seeing as how I'm getting into racing I wanted what I thought would be a good reliable training/racing frame. I did as much research as I could and settled on the VB-R-068 aero frame- I chose rim brakes because all of my wheels and groupos are mechanical rim and I'm also a weight weenie who prefers rim over disc for that reason- I don't ride in the rain often and I've never had any issues with brake fade or anything like that on any of the local descents. The reason I chose an aero frame instead of a climbing/endurance frame is because at 85~kg/185~lbs I'm no lightweight and in my personal experience I go faster on a heavier aero frame than on a considerably lighter climbing frame. I'm still all about the weight weenie-ism but I'd rather get the lightest possible aero frame I can and use the lightest components on it. The P3 had a mixture of SRAM stuff on it- Rival22 right shifter and RD, Red 10s left shifter and a Force (and then Ultegra 6500 b/c the Force FD was quite shitty) FD with Apex brakes and a 6800 crank. I wanted a change and also saw that Merlin was selling Dura-Ace 9100 shifters for $410, R8000 brakes for $87 (the whole set, both front and rear!!) and front and rear Ultegra derailleurs for less than $150. I was going the weight weenie route when I was rocking the SRAM but the front shifting was really underwhelming plus I was ready for a change and honestly felt like spending some money- what can I say. Here's a list of weights for the build: -VB-R-068 frame in 56cm: 1276g -VB uncut fork: 404.5g -VB uncut aero seat-post: 192.1 -ICAN 38mm carbon clinchers: 1394g -Bontrager R3 tires (non tubeless): 415g -Continental/Bontrager tubes: 170g -VB Headset: 130g -BBR60 Shimano threaded BB: 75.6g -Generic Amazon Ti QR skewers: 42.5g -EC90 carbon stem (120mm/-7): 131.9g -Selle carbon saddle clone: 97.5g -Generic Amazon carbon aero drop bars (40cm): 184.1 -Dura-Ace 9100 shifters: 369.1g -Ultegra R8000 FD: 90g -Ultegra RX800 RD: 242g -Ultegra R8000 brakes (with SwissStop Black Prince pads): 367.4g -SROAD 11-32 cassette: 219.8g -Amazon carbon bottle cage: 15.8g -Ultegra R6800 crank- 53/39 and 172.5mm: 696g (as per Shimano's website- I took the crank off the P3 and didn't remove the pedals and forgot to weight everything) -Garmin V2 Dual-Sided PM pedals: 358g~ (I didn't feel like taking them off the crank just to weigh them and I don't have the numbers at my apartment- this is based on Google search results) -The cumulative weight is 7.5kg with bottle cage and pedals I *think* that's about it. The build was fairly straightforward but I'm not sure I'd suggest it for someone that doesn't have any experience in working on bikes. I did a ton of research before buying/building this so I more or less knew what I was dealing with. 2 miles into my first ride on Saturday the rail clamp shifted a few degrees upwards- guess I hadn't tightened it enough. Annoyingly enough, the wedges that I had initially not tightened enough got stuck in the upward position leaving me pretty uncomfortable for the rest of my 30~ mile ride. The drivetrain shifted nicely and was quite in the stand but was noisy once I got it onto the road but that's not all that uncommon- just need to finish dialing in the indexing and maybe the front mech to get it perfect. About 20 miles into that ride, I realized the saddle must've slipped way down because I felt like I was on a clown bike- from from I've read, this is a super common issue on the open mold bikes that have aero seat-posts. I ended up riding out of the saddle for a lot of those 10 miles (silver lining, I set 20s, 30s and 60s power PRs because of that lol). I get home and remove the saddle and get a flat-head screwdriver and a soft mallet to knock the wedges out of the seat-post and tightened it a little tighter (12nm instead of 8.5nm). I got a piece of plastic from those bags that linen comes in- for some reason that's the shim of choice for these seat-posts- and I rubbed some carbon paste on a piece and wedged it in the back of the seat-post and tightened to 4nm. I also changed the bar tape- I had originally bought some pink Supacaz knock-off tape and it was AWFUL- without a doubt the worst tape I've ever used. The Marque tape I'd ordered two nights before had come so I used that instead. Oh, and this was a first, I noticed that whenever I turned the bars sharply to the left, the front brake would tighten a little bit, so I had to redo the tape holding the cable- I even cut a new length of housing but it wasn't needed. I went on a longer 50 mile ride yesterday and it was considerably better- I put on a different saddle just to try it out on this bike and it wasn't nearly as comfortable as I recalled- but aside from that it was a fun and dope ride. Two things to note: the front shifting on the 9100/8000 shifter/FD combo is absolutely phenomenal- like, all I have to do is barely even touch the lever and it'll shift from small to big with the utmost of ease- it's honestly so amazing. Gotta say that I'm still getting used to the trim function on the front shifter- having been using SRAM for the past 2000+ miles and having used 1x for a while before that, sometimes I'll downshift when I mean to trim. The other noteworthy thing is the brakes- I was super hesitant to buy Ultegra brakes that were actually a good bit HEAVIER than my Apex brakes but I kept reading about how good they were and since they were on sale, I pulled the trigger and got them. I'm glad I did, I thought I'd felt good to decent braking before but the Ultegra brakes are something else entirely- the modulation, the precision- I'll gladly take a weight penalty to run brakes like this. I tried indexing the RD a little bit before the ride but it was still a bit noisy- I ended up getting the rear shifting dialed in nicely last night once I got home but it's still being a bit loud for my taste- I'm thinking running a 6800 crank with the SROAD cassette and a current gen Dura-Ace chain might just make for a noisier than usual drivetrain. I'm installing a 36 tooth chainring today so I'll make sure there's no undue noise from the FD/crank area. Here's a few pics- I can always post more if anyone would like. August 30, 2021, 10:49:27 AM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
Finally! I've only had time to pick at the build 15-30minutes at a time so it took forever. Wrong paint color notwithstanding, here are the other hiccups I experienced(mostly trivial): - Brake cable exit hole on fork had some flaking carbon - One of the Front brake mount screw holes was not deep enough, requiring use of an extra washer as a spacer - Handlebar carbon is a bit messy inside making routing fiddly - Rear brake mounts slightly misaligned, resulting in the slightest rub once per revolution (even if I manually open the Juin Tech calipers the whole way). It'll probably be fine once the pads are bedded - some minor cosmetic scratches And here is the good: + Weight was within specified, including hardware + Other than handlebars routing was super easy + Carbon looked super clean on the inside, other than deep in the fork + BB pressed in very cleanly End build is a 1x12 based on the Sensah Empire Pro. Showroom weight (without pedals) = 7.58kg Weight with pedals and cages = 7.79kg Real-world weight (with computer mount, computer, lights, Airtag, repair kit) = 8.6kg UPDATE: Included my parts and pricing. All prices are Canadian Dollars, incl. taxes, duties, and shipping where applicable. Weights are a mixture of estimates and actual, so differ from the final measured weight (probably some parts came in lower than advertised, and losses from cutting cables, handlebar tape, steerer, etc.) September 09, 2021, 07:04:51 PM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
the question is : is it the same thing : BBR60 and BB86 ? nope. BBR60 is threaded while the frame accepts pressfit BB. You'd need to get https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/ultegra-r8100/SM-BB72-41.html or get something with ceramic bearings while at it. September 13, 2021, 11:06:10 PM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
You have to pay attention to: the frame is 86.5 bearing width Pressfit and your shaft is 24mm https://de.aliexpress.com/item/32864474260.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.6e0b4cb90vWN0T&algo_pvid=f5bab720-3582-4e38-a6e7-6472943eb0a8&aem_p4p_detail=2021091400562314440215575003900076337371&algo_exp_id=f5bab720-3582-4e38-a6e7-6472943eb0a8-1&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2210000000104063656%22%7D September 14, 2021, 02:59:53 AM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
Hi, Yo can use the Shomano SM-BB7241 bottom bracket for the R8000 in BB86 September 14, 2021, 06:57:23 AM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
In fact i just notie this frame is press fit. I do not think it does. Although, I had great success using a threaded PF bottom bracket. No BB press, self-aligning, creak resistant, installs with a normal Hollowtech II BB wrench Took me 2 minutes to install https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32856311570.html September 14, 2021, 12:16:17 PM |
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Magene P325 CS - First Impressions
I really wanted a power meter for my bike, but did not want to pay the normal rates for the a dual-sided meter Noticed the Magene P325CS was a dual meter option for a reasonable price, so I pulled the trigger. I think it retails for about $450/$550 CAD, but I picked mine up for about $350 CAD. I got a standard 53/39, with 170mm cranks. Packaging: It comes in a pretty box, and is well-packaged. Left crank is packaged in a separate box within, and the crank set protectected with a custom-cut piece of packing foam. Includes: Chainrings, Cranks, magnetic charging cable, instructions Build: Everything looks well-machined. Smooth, with no burrs. All parts fit perfectly. The cranks are hollowed with 3-holes, 2 of which are visible. Anodization does not run the length of the holes, and stops about an inch in They are a bit chunky at 775 grams. The power meters are rechargeable, and come with a charging cable that magnetically sticks to the charging ports on either crank There are reports of chainring flex under sprinting conditions, but I cannot comment as I swapped out the rings for 1X. The spider LOOKs like a direct-mount SRAM 8-bolt AXS interface, but it is not. The SRAM 8-bolt interface has one shorter spline. This means that if you switch chainrings, you will need to take a round file to one of the splines to get it to fit on the cranks. (I had to do this with my Stone AXS-to-5-Bolt Adapter) Note: If you want to switch out the chainrings, you will need to get one that allows access to the drive-side charging port. Installation: As easy as can be. Fits standard BB road shell width, with 24mm crank shaft. Slide through BB, pre-load with 10mm hex bolt, tighten left-side pinch bolts. done Accuracy: Can't speak to this, as this is my first power meter. GP Lama reviewed, and it is not as accurate as he would like. This was also looked at by Ronald Kuba, and to a lesser degree Charles Ouimet. Both of them believe it is fit for purpose, unless you are at a competitive level (which I am not, and early data from the power meter backs this up - lol) At the end of the day, I am only competing against myself. At the very least, it will be useful in trending performance changes. Set-up: Connected easily to my Magene C406 using the Onelap utility, which then syncs with Strava. No issues here One a few rides, but so far no signal drops Features: The Onelap utility provides all the metrics you could ever need. Basic things it does track are: Power, cadence, left/right balance, pedaling efficiency, torque effectiveness. It then makes other calculations, such as Power Zones (Anaerobic, VO2 Max, etc.), Watts/kg, Training stress, intensity, normalized power, etc. All in all, I am quite happy with it. For the same price, I could have gotten a single refurbished 4iii or Stages crank. Whether it is as accurate as a pair of Assiomas is irrelevant for me. It is accurate enough for my purposes. September 16, 2021, 11:06:15 AM |
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