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Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
Then it's quite obvious this happened. With an electrically conducive medium like tubeless milk (electrolyte) there is a electrochemical corrosion going on. The Aluminum has a lower valence than the carbon so there is a constant ions transport from aluminum to carbon. Ths makes the aluminum corrode. It really dissolves. This can even lead to a complete nipple head failure and the ripping apart of nipple head and rest of nipple. This also happens with water, but it takes longer as water is faster evaporating like the persistent milk.
ALWAYS use brass nipples when buildung carbon rims you want to run tubeless and you want to ride your bike also in wet weather conditions. Salt from the winter times, even help the corrosion.
The avaiation learned it the hard way, as they were placing aluminum ribs on bare carbon. Nw they are using a insolation layer between the both like glassfiber.

Awesome info.  Any you're right.  The tips of the nipples were nearly gone.  Putting a screw driver in them was not possible as the slot was missing in most cases.  I'm surprised I had not had complete failures up to that point.  I think the stainless steel washers used were the only thing holding them in.  These were black Sapim aluminum.  6 years old.  Maybe 2-3 rim tape failures in the time I had them, so plenty of sealant contamination opportunities.

Brass ones arrived Monday and brass ones will be used on all future wheels as well.  Because this was a PITA and cost me $114 in spokes.

That's for dang sure. I wanted those rims this time, but as I build them my own, I prefer not to have to fiddle that much with all those nipples. As brass nor aluminum are magnetic, this won't help you here

I read that people thread a tiny steel bolt into the nipple and then use a magnet to pull them into the holes.  Seems like a PITA.  But I might try hole-less with the next set I built up.

July 31, 2020, 11:43:12 AM
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Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
Holy moly, these are looking bad. You had black sapim aluminum spacers under the nipple heads? And these looking great? Are you sure they are aluminum? You could try a magnet on them to find out.

I wasn't very clear on that point.  Nipples were aluminum, black Sapim.  But under them were some stainless steel washers/spacers; definitely steel, probably stainless given that they had zero corrosion and could be removed from the nipples easily.

Should I reuse these spacers on the new brass nipples?

July 31, 2020, 12:06:14 PM
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Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts XL SL frame came in at 2,012g. Everything was removed except for the cable liners.

Here are the weights of the attached items.

I will consider a RWC Shock Eye Needle Bearing Kit

Frame, shock, and all frame bits is 2,329g.

July 31, 2020, 02:12:09 PM
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Re: ZTTO MTB M1 Boost hubs 28H 54T Ratchet It looks they even copied the hard to remove end caps from DT Swiss  ???

To remove them without scratching you need a bolt or a cylinder of the same diameter of the axle. You can use the axle too, but you may damage the thread.
Put the bolt a little inside the end cap hole, force the bolt to move on the side, the end cap pops out.

August 01, 2020, 03:36:39 PM
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Re: TanTan FM699 build. Stuffed in some foam that we had lying around from packaging. Gave it a quick shake and nothing..no rattle so I'll leave it as is for now.
Went ahead and pressed in the bb92 gxp. Was tuff at first but then the tool pulled through. Used some loctite 609 on there so hoping for zero squeakyness.
So far this frame has been great to work with.

   

Like a glove.
   

Test fit
   
 

Plenty of clearance


   
   


August 01, 2020, 10:16:29 PM
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Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts My frame arrived!

Hope you all like the color, I think its fun!

Here is my clearance with the cheap ebay 165x42.5 2018 fox dps bottomed out. When its already bottomed out and I continue to bounce on it the frame doesn't budge. I agree with NumberZero and Medico, 42.5 seems bomber.

This build is looking better and better. No problems so far. Quality is great

August 04, 2020, 01:43:46 AM
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Re: ZTTO MTB M1 Boost hubs 28H 54T Ratchet Just hit them gently on the inner crown from the other side, to get them out.
Either with a dedicated cylindrical tool and a mallet.
Or again a bolt, an Allen key or a screwdriver.

I wouldn't change them now, just check if they develop some play in the coming months.
When you feel the wheels moves too much laterally.
Ali bearings are ok for disposable ones like BB and headset ones, they are generally crap and don't last.

For the wheels, I put SKF or NTN stainless ones.
Ceramic are a waste of money on an MTB IMO.

August 04, 2020, 05:27:06 AM
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Re: ZTTO MTB M1 Boost hubs 28H 54T Ratchet You can get the axle out with a mallet, like de dt swiss ones.
Here's a video on how to do it:
Some have threaded end caps, like the Novatec or Carbon Ti.

August 04, 2020, 09:06:55 AM
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Re: ZTTO MTB M1 Boost hubs 28H 54T Ratchet Once the end caps are off, you should be able to tap on one end of the axle and have come out the other side as it will take one of the bearings with it. My guess would be that the axle has two shoulders on it that rest against the inner race of the bearing. Once the axle and one bearing is out, slide the axle back in and use it to tap out the other bearing.

I obviously don't have the hub in my hand so this is all based off of assumptions.

August 04, 2020, 10:59:54 AM
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Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
My frame arrived!

Hope you all like the color, I think its fun!

Here is my clearance with the cheap ebay 165x42.5 2018 fox dps bottomed out. When its already bottomed out and I continue to bounce on it the frame doesn't budge. I agree with NumberZero and Medico, 42.5 seems bomber.

This build is looking better and better. No problems so far. Quality is great

Great color! I didn't go with paint but next time I am going with something LOUD :D

August 04, 2020, 03:55:49 PM
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