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Re: I9 Torch hubs / HED carbon 27.5+ wheels $999.99 41mm is ideal for a 2.8 to 3 inch tire. I run a 29x3.0 tire on a 42mm rim on my winter bike. Fat tire bikes are generally 65mm and up.

No shipping from China required as they are name brand wheels from US based company with a few brick and mortar retail locations.

I didn't pull the trigger as I don't have a bike to put them on. I'm generally in the $750 to $800 range for a generic rim on DT 350 hubs so $999 for these is a pretty good value for high end hubs and name brand rims.

August 06, 2020, 05:15:38 AM
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Re: Lightcarbon LCFS937 Build
You are going to use the same components as on the merida and the new bike will be more expensive? Either the merdia frame is very cheap when you exclude all the components, or the LCF is very expensive.
Normally when I build a bike with the same components like the one in the shop, I end up cheaper. I only end up more expensive when I use the money, which I save on the frame, to buy better components as my initial intention

This is my thought as well.  On my hardtail build in 2014, I had about $4k to spend.  That would have gotten me (at the time), a 24lb bike built with upper-midrange components and likely aluminum wheels (remember, carbon was more of an expensive novelty even back then).  Instead I built a 20lb bike with xx1/x01 and carbon wheels for the same money.  There was a ~$1000 difference for the frame (Branded to Open Mold) and ~$700 difference on the carbon wheels (branded to Open Mold).  That money was applied to components.  Using Chinese carbon seat post and handlebar and Chinese stem and seat further increased savings.

OEMs do get a break on components versus what we can generally find retail, but with some careful shopping I've found that components can be bought at very good prices compared to MSRP.

August 06, 2020, 11:15:17 AM
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Re: Lightcarbon LCFS937 Build
I thought they changed the model number to reflect the fix?

oh ok, I missed that important info then. thanks

The newer version of the frame seems to be much more durable. I've taken it on several jump lines and some big drops. It held up fine, no cracks or any problems. Once you get the suspension dialed in, it really rips and I'm surprised it's not that popular. I'm guessing the first version has steered some people away.

August 07, 2020, 07:53:25 AM
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Re: Lightcarbon LCFS937 Build *Sorry to hijack thread*  ;)

That's it! 20lb for 4000$? Oh wow that's a very difficult undertaking. Only manageable with a decent amount of AliExpress and used parts. Especially when you are going for XX1/X01, which is even way more expensive than Shimano XTR.
Do you have a part list with money you spent and weights?

The most 'up-to-date' list from my build is attached.  A few things to keep in mind:
  • This was 2014.  The bicycle market has inflated steadily since then.
  • I built three nearly identical bikes at the same time and leveraged quantity for price reductions.  For example, the groupsets were bought by an offer sent to and eBay seller in the UK.  He discounted significantly for 3 full groupsets.
  • All carbon components, including the wheels, were bought from the same Chinese seller.  Again, leveraged for cost/shipping reduction.
  • There are costs not reflected on this list including custom paint, paint protection film, tools, fluids, cables, etc.  But everything is still in the ball park.  Total price when I added up everything including shipping after the built was done was right around $4100/bike if my memory is correct.
  • Actual weight of my bike was 20.65lbs with the heavier casing tires.  Could have been just at about 20.0-20.2 if I went with thin casing tires, which would be dumb where I ride.  I would go broke replacing them.
  • There are very few 'Name Brands' on the bike.  Really only the mechanical bits and brakes.  Rest is generic/open mold.
  • Frame shown in the photo is not the original frame.  I accidently landed on the original frame's seat stay and cracked it in 2018.  This replacement frame was a bit more expensive, but weighed the same.

August 07, 2020, 12:22:13 PM
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Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
I wonder if I'm missing a plastic reduction bushing or something like that on my rear shock. The hole is 15,2mm on my float DPS

This is what you need:
https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/fox-rear-shock-mounting-hardware-8mm-x-22-19mm-0-874-5-piece-aluminum-1
Thanks, is this normally supplied with the shock or with the frame?

No. You have to buy it seperatly

August 12, 2020, 10:29:43 AM
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Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
I wonder if I'm missing a plastic reduction bushing or something like that on my rear shock. The hole is 15,2mm on my float DPS

This is what you need:
https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/fox-rear-shock-mounting-hardware-8mm-x-22-19mm-0-874-5-piece-aluminum-1
Thanks, is this normally supplied with the shock or with the frame?

No. You have to buy it seperatly

But I only need one right? as the lower end will get attached by two M10 bolts which come with the frame?!

Yep

August 12, 2020, 10:40:43 AM
1
Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
I wonder if I'm missing a plastic reduction bushing or something like that on my rear shock. The hole is 15,2mm on my float DPS

This is what you need:
https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/fox-rear-shock-mounting-hardware-8mm-x-22-19mm-0-874-5-piece-aluminum-1
Thanks, is this normally supplied with the shock or with the frame?

No. You have to buy it seperatly

But I only need one right? as the lower end will get attached by two M10 bolts which come with the frame?!

Yep
Thanks mate. First time building a fully here.

I find it quite pleasing...dont rush it, take your time and enjoy!

August 12, 2020, 10:45:41 AM
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Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
My cat loves the rear deraileur too!  Can I ask what your rear shock PSI and rebound setting are?  I'm same weight but taller and on a large frame, running 240 PSI with rebound at 6 clicks out from closed.  Feels a little too fast vs the front end at times.

I counted 10 clicks from full rebound toward softer, At just under 200psi. I bet the shock behaves differently on a larger frame.

For the newer people like me, when you pump up the rear shock make sure to equalize the chambers by compressing to 25% about 20 times. Then check the sag and PSI again. Also, this shock tune is: 2018, FLOAT DPS, P-S, A, 3pos, Trunnion Evol LV, Giant, Anthem 27.5 2, 165, 42.5, 0.8 Spacer, DCM, DRM, CML, YS 2272/YS 2272 Logo

That 0.8 spacer means bottoming out the rear shock is really tough. Thats why I go for such low rebound, with semi-high pressure. Of course, I dont really know what I am doing. :P

I wonder if I'm missing a plastic reduction bushing or something like that on my rear shock. The hole is 15,2mm on my float DPS

This is what you need:
https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/fox-rear-shock-mounting-hardware-8mm-x-22-19mm-0-874-5-piece-aluminum-1

This is what I used too, worked perfectly.

This is great feedback.  My stats are about the same as yours; 5'10" and 165 lbs.  I'm on the fence about Med vs Lg.  I'm riding a large XC hardtail now, but could see the advantage of a more 'compact' sizing for a bike I'd be getting a bit rowdier on than I do with the hardtail (which is generally really long sessions of power to the pedals and less tech stuff).  I'm leaning towards Med for this frame.

I think the medium is a good size. I have a short stem and 750mm handle bars. Maybe go for 780mm bars.



August 13, 2020, 11:57:13 AM
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Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
Hi guys, received my frame and I have a question.
When I deinstall the plastic holder on the linkage, the frame won't fold easily. There is a pretention which forces it to go back to its previous position. Like an integrated rebound. Is that normal?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1O1YFdZvNJjdkX3CjfY9CznJqs7PPPjuU/view?usp=drivesdk

...my first fully I'm building...

Yep its normal... because of the flexstays I think.
If you push harder watch out it won't hit the seatstay.

Good luck building it up

August 16, 2020, 03:22:48 AM
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Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
Hi Everyone, I'm a long time lurker on this forum and I just wanted to say thanks to everyone for all the great information. My buddy and I have been riding Tideace FM-M009's for three years and we are about to plunge into the full suspension world. I've read through this whole thread and think I have a pretty good handle on the FM936. I've been emailing back and forth with Adam for a few days and am planning to pull the trigger on an XL frame tonight. I'm planning to reuse as many of my current bike's parts as possible.

One area I'm struggling with is the rear wheel. For those who have used the 142 to 148 boost conversion kits, how well does it work and is it a sustainable or just interim solution? How hard is it to take the wheel on and off with the spacer? I currently take my wheels off every time I ride to put the bike in the car.

Thanks!

are there permantent fox kits, like DT offers new end caps which you just change with the old ones. I think a water resistent glue like UHU repair Extreme will do the job also. And it's not that hard to get rid of again, when you ave to.

Thanks for the input, I kind of figured it would be a hassel dealing with the spacer. My current wheels don't have a name brand hub that offers a kit or new end caps. I'll probably just buy a new rear wheel.

August 19, 2020, 10:36:23 AM
1