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Workswell WCB-R-306 Disc Brake - Who Sells It? Hi all, I'm new as a user but have been reading for a long time. I spent 13-odd years working for a Trek/SBI/Cdale dealer and dove into the china frame journey with both eyes open and a Dremel at the ready.

My first bike was a Workswell R-146 gravel bike (Open UP ish). I love it. I have ridden the crap out of it. I had to dremel in a fresh rear hose entry port as the Open UP style head tube entry ports would pinch the hose with a low stem (used a 2007 Madone brake housing entry port, even tapped the tiny screw in the frame). Also, had to dremel around the bb shell to get a power meter to fit. After sanding out and hammering in my lower headset bearing, it was ready to go with a Campy EPS drivetrain running a 52x36 and an 11-40 cassette. Can get up anything!

I'm now wanting to dabble in disc brake road bikes and found the Workswell WCB-R-306 Disc Brake. I am hunting for something tarmac/emonda/supersix-ish: light, FSA ACR compatible internal routing, and some aero.

My question is: does anyone know who is the retail seller of the 306 frame is? Workswell can't sell it in the USA due to exclusivity clause... I've seen some impressive framespotting here and was wondering if anyone could help me out... or! offer some good alternatives!

Thanks for reading this far; I'll gladly shut up now.
May 22, 2022, 11:27:30 PM 		1
Re: Juin Tech GT-F brake calipers (dual piston)
Quote from: StiffWeenies on January 27, 2022, 11:29:42 PM
Regarding the versions with exposed pistons, it seems like that was actually the 2nd generation design done by a company called IIIPRO who produced them until Onirii took over the project.

Mine just came in the mail. Interested what your take is on these.
They are branded Onirii on one side, IIIPRO on the other.
They come with pads installed, so I haven’t checked the seals yet.

For comparison, they are 37g heavier than the Juin Tech GT-F for the same 160mm setup.
So torn.  Giving up 37g and dual piston calipers for colour coordination…
May 24, 2022, 04:52:01 PM 		1
Re: Juin Tech GT-F brake calipers (dual piston)
Quote from: cramy on May 25, 2022, 07:32:10 AM
Giving up 37g and dual piston, but saving how much money?

None.  Because I already bought and have been using the GT-Fs.  Lol

But…for all of you still weighing options:
Juin Tech GT-F: $280 CAD. Natively designed for 160mm. 4-piston. Comes equipped with pads, as well as a spare set. Comes with 3 sets of bolts for different chain stays. 332g for the system including mounting hardware
Available on AliExpress

Onirii BR-05: $125 CAD (for 160mm version). Natively designed for 140mm. 2-piston. Comes equipped with pads. Comes with 3 sets of bolts for different chain stays. Comes with some cable crimps. Comes with 160mm adapters.
369g for the system including mounting hardware.
As of posting, only available on Taobao.

A note on Taobao: It can be used internationally, but you need to be able to read Chinese, or have a friend who does. It accepts international credit cards, and shops internationally - at least the vendor I bought the calipers from did.

Buying is a two-step process. First you need to buy the item. This gets you domestic shipping (free in my case) to the nearest port in China.
Once it arrives, you receive a notification to arrange international shipping.  If you bought a bunch of stuff on Taobao, you can wait for items to aggregate at the port and have them shipped together. If you have a ton of stuff, you can arrange things to be shipped by ocean freight (at least as far as I could tell)
Most of us will just get Cainiao shipping (or whatever retail option is available). This cost me $40CAD and is included in the price above.
If you don’t pay, the item just sits at the port. I don’t know what happens if you let it sit there forever.

Then, you can sit back and wait for the package to arrive.  All in, it took about 3 weeks from purchase to door for me.
May 25, 2022, 08:05:56 AM 		1
How I painted my frame I decided to paint my Carbonda CFR707 frame myself. This was my first bike painting project, and I learned quite a bit during the process. I thought I’d document my experiences for anyone else contemplating a similar project. I made plenty of mistakes along the way so hopefully this will save someone some trouble!


I used SprayMax 2K primer and clear coat, and Montana Cans Gold paint. I also painted the bottle cages using the same procedure. I left the insides carbon since they would quickly get scuffed by the bottles.


A few general tips:
  • Always wear PPE when working with aerosols, especially the 2K stuff! I wore a respirator, gloves, and safety glasses when doing any kind of spraying. (All of my sanding was wet sanding, so there was no concern with dust.)
  • I used a scrap of PVC pipe to practice and test techniques on. This gave me a good idea of how well the paint sanded and polished, and I was also able to practice doing fades.
  • Bikes are very weird shapes, so it helps to have a large work surface and a rack to hang the frame during painting.
  • Change sandpaper frequently, as the finer grits clog very easily.
  • Always inspect your work in good lighting, such as direct sunlight. Some issues will not show up well otherwise.
  • The online color guide for Montana Cans wasn’t a great match. The frame ended up significantly more purple than intended. The paint did match the color samples on the cans though.
  • I had a few issues with my finger overhanging the spray nozzle and causing drips. It pays to check your finger position frequently.
June 04, 2022, 12:47:29 PM 		1
Re: How I painted my frame
Initial Preparation


The first step was to fully disassemble the frame. I removed all of the screws, grommets, and fittings. The cable access hatch under the bottom bracket was also removed so that I could paint it separately. I did leave the cable guides in, however.


I then masked the frame to minimize the amount of water that could get in while wet sanding it. I mostly used cheap painter’s masking tape (the blue stuff) to cover the bottom bracket, seat tube, and head tube holes. There’s no need to be really neat about this as long as the holes are plugged. I also masked the serial number to protect it from sanding. To keep the sludge out of the bosses, I put old bolts into all of the screw holes. I left the heads sticking up a bit so that I could sand all the way up to the hole.


Sanding was the next step. Using 500 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper, I sanded the entire frame. I frequently wet the sandpaper in a bucket of water to keep it from clogging with dust. It also helps to change the sandpaper frequently. I then followed up with 1000 grit sandpaper to ensure a smooth surface.


I did not go all the way down to the bare carbon, although it was exposed in some places. The UD coating is fairly durable and seals the carbon, so I don’t think it’s essential to remove all of it.


I finished up by removing the masking tape and cleaning the frame with a wet rag to remove all of the sanding dust.
June 04, 2022, 12:48:25 PM 		1
Re: How I painted my frame
Preparation for Priming


Prior to priming, I remasked the frame. This making will remain on for the remainder of the painting process. In addition, the edges should be sharp as some of the edges will be visible. This will also save having to clean overspray off the headset cups or other unpainted areas.


My go-to masking tape for anything requiring precision is made by Tamiya. It’s intended for plastic models, but it works very well for larger applications. It conforms well to odd surfaces, sticks very well, doesn’t bleed under, yet can be easily removed without residue even after long periods. It comes in a bunch of widths, but I usually just get the 18mm stuff and cut it narrower when needed. I used this for all of the edges and filled in the larger areas with the blue painter’s tape.


I masked the inside of the headset cups, bottom bracket, seat tube, and dropouts with the Tamiya tape. For the bottom bracket, I also covered the outside with tape and then carefully cut around the edge of the aluminum insert. This will preserve a bare metal face for the bottom bracket to screw up against. I opened up the hole and masked the inside so that I could hang the frame by the bottom bracket for painting. Likewise, I ensured that I could stick a rod through the down tube to hang the frame that way if needed.


For most of the bolt holes, I inserted cut-off cotton swab tips that were wrapped in tape. These plug the holes without overlapping the top. I masked over the brake mounts to preserve the bare metal surfaces.


Finally, I wiped down the frame with a clean rag and some isopropyl alcohol. When this dried, I dusted it with a clean brush to ensure there was no lint from the rag.


I made a makeshift painting stand by clamping a piece of PVC pipe to a ladder. I then hung the frame from this by the bottom bracket. This allowed me to easily rotate the frame to different orientations so that I could paint the entire frame in one go. I put a clamp on the end of the pipe to prevent the frame from sliding off. For the fork, I clamped a larger piece of pipe to the ladder and stuck the steerer into it. I also put a clamp on the end of the steerer (lightly!) to ensure that the fork wouldn’t slide off. I secured the cable access cover to a piece of scrap wood with a loop of tape on the back.


I painted it outside on my driveway and then moved the ladder inside the garage to finish drying after a few minutes.
June 04, 2022, 12:49:21 PM 		1
Re: How I painted my frame
Priming


I used one full can of primer (SprayMax 2K Epoxy Primer Filler Grey 680033). This was just enough to give one coat to the frame, fork, and bottle cages, although it was light in a couple of areas.


This paint is nasty stuff. I used gloves, safety glasses, and a respirator while working with it. I also painted outside to ensure adequate fresh air.


Priming can be done using numerous light coats. This helps avoid getting the paint too thick and causing drips. I held the can about 30 cm away and moved fairly quickly. Even so, I did end up with a few drips that had to be sanded later.


When the primer was thoroughly dry (it should have a very little smell), I sanded it. There were a few drips that I carefully smoothed with wet 500 grit sandpaper. I practiced on my piece of PVC pipe first so that I had a good feel for how much I could sand without exposing the carbon below. It is very easy to go too far, so use light pressure and be careful to only sand the raised area. I then smoothed those areas out with 1000 grit paper. I didn’t get them entirely flat, but they feel smooth and should not be very visible when done.


I then wet sanded the entire frame lightly with 1500 and 2000 grit sandpaper. (I used 1500 and 2000 grit interchangeably because I had a little of each.) The 2000 grit sandpaper can still take off a surprising amount of paint. Even though I was careful to use a light pressure, it went through the primer on a few of the sharp edges.


It was difficult to tell exactly how smooth the surface was when wet, so I sanded a small area at a time and then cleaned and dried it. The surface should feel perfectly smooth, and it should have a somewhat satin or semi-gloss finish. It helps to have good lighting for this step. Finally, I cleaned and dried the frame again.


If I were to do it again, I would likely do a second coat. This would give a thicker covering and make it less likely to sand through to carbon. That won’t matter so much for a dark finish, but a lighter color might show some color variation there. Applying a second coat would require a second can because the pot life when mixed is not long enough to allow it to dry and then prep if for the second coat.
June 04, 2022, 12:50:01 PM 		1
Re: How I painted my frame
Painting Technique


I used Montana Cans Gold paint in a total of six colors. I’ve generally heard good feedback on them, and I did find them easy to work with. It was easy to get an even finish. I don’t know how well they will hold up long term though.


Since my paint scheme was fairly elaborate, I spent some time figuring out what sequence to paint in. It’s generally best to start with the light colors because the darker colors tend to cover better. To ensure an even color when overcoating with a second color, I extended the base coat across the whole area.


Before painting over the primer, I wiped it with isopropyl alcohol to remove any fingerprints or dirt. This did not seem to attack the primer, but I was still careful with it. I did not use alcohol on the Montana colors because they tended to soften from the alcohol.


In most cases, I used two coats of paint, with a light sanding (1500 or 2000 grit, wet) after the first. The first coat was fairly light, but I went heavier with the second coat so that it dried to a smooth finish.


When I painted a region, I masked off most of the rest of the frame to avoid overspray. I used a couple of different kinds of tape. When masking over areas I had already sprayed with Montana Cans, I used Frog Tape Delicate Surfaces because I’ve had good experiences with it removing cleanly. I used the cheap blue painter’s tape over the primer because I wasn’t worried about it lifting. However, some of this stuff left a sticky residue that was a pain to remove. I’d use the Frog Tape everywhere if I was doing it again even though it’s not cheap.


For masking the sharp lines between colors, I used Tamiya tape. When cut into 2 to 3 mm wide strips, it can be bent around curves. This allowed me to mask inside the fork, seatstays, and chainstays. Cut the tape with a straightedge and use this edge for the sharpest lines. For some of the unusual edges, such as by the brake mounts, I put a wider strip of tape overhanging the edge and carefully cut around the contour. I then filled in the inside with Frog Tape.


When I sprayed the first colors, I wanted to create a soft transition just past the edges of those regions so that it would not show up underneath the second color. To do this, I rolled strips of wide blue painter’s tape into tubes about 1 cm in diameter, sticky side out. I lined the area with these strips and used more tape to fill in the gaps. This generally creates a fuzzier edge than just sticking the tape on the frame. After the paint was dry, I sanded the transitions so that they were smooth to the touch.


Montana Cans spray fairly well and it was fairly easy to get a good even coat. The paint comes out much more slowly than the primer did, so I held the can about 15 to 25 cm from the frame. I still moved fairly quickly and added layers until I got a fairly smooth, wet look. I did end up with a couple drips, so work carefully.


I used the standard caps that came with the cans (gold, I believe). These give a good spray pattern for the frame. However, a wider spray likely would have given softer fades.


The fades were a bit more challenging. I tested a few times on my test pipe and strongly recommend doing this. I found it best to make quick passes perpendicular to the tube and build up layers for the solid region. The inside of the seat stays was the most challenging because it was hard to get the can at a good angle, and the two needed to be symmetric.


It is easy to go too far, although it is possible to fix some mistakes by lightly spraying the original color. It took several iterations before I was happy with the fades. I found that some cans sprayed better than others, so I used these for most of the final fade work. (Light colors seemed to be less likely to sputter, but that may just have been a coincidence.) A light sanding will remove some of the distant specks and make the transition a bit cleaner. Be careful with this - it is hard to make sure it is even, especially on small diameter tubes like the seat stays.


After all the painting was done, I gave it a light sanding with 2000 grit sandpaper. The goal is a smooth, even, semi-glossy finish. However, I was very careful with the fades because it is easy to remove the fine spray and change the appearance. I left those areas slightly rough. I also smoothed the masked lines slightly with 1000 and 2000 grit. This reduced the raised edge where the colors meet although I did not eliminate it completely.


There were a few areas that required touching up. In a couple of places, spray got through gaps in the masking tape. I was able to fix these with a light sanding with 2000 grit paper, as it was only a light overspray. There were also a few places where I sanded too far and exposed the base color. For these, I masked around the affected areas using rolled up tape for soft edges and resprayed. I sprayed as small of an area as possible and blended the new paint with the old using 2000 grit sandpaper.
June 04, 2022, 12:51:44 PM 		1
Re: How I painted my frame
Painting Sequence


The overall sequence I followed was:
  • Mask everything except the orange fade on the inside of the fork and rear triangle. Use rolled tape for soft edges.
  • Paint the entire area with two coats of Orangina.
  • Paint the Blood Orange fade.
  • Remove masking and clean up the edges.
  • Mask everything except the purple fade on the down tube and seat tube. Use rolled tape for soft edges.
  • Paint the entire area with two coats of Sweet Dream (lightest color).
  • Paint the middle sections with a Lavender fade.
  • Paint the top sections with a Blue Velvet fade.
  • Repeat the previous steps until happy with the fade.
  • Remove masking and clean up the edges.
  • Mask the orange and purple fades. These need to be sharp edges, with the exception of the sides of the Blue Velvet areas. These should be soft edges because they will be surrounded by more Blue Velvet.
  • Paint the entire area with Blue Velvet. (coats?)
  • Paint the lower half with the Welsh Fade.
  • Remove the masking on the orange and purple fades.
  • Touchups.
  • Apply head badge decal.
  • Clearcoat the entire frame (two coats).
  • Polish.
  • Wax.
June 04, 2022, 12:52:29 PM 		1
Re: Velobuild GF-002 Just finished up building my new GF-002 frame. Almost all parts except for the bars/stem were transferred over from my GF-001.


Aside from a few stumbling blocks that were on me, the build was smooth. Frame and separate bar/stem combo from VB have been great and I'm happy with everything so far.


Learnings:


1. No cabling exposed with separate VB bar/stem: This bar/stem combo has fully integrated cabling with no exposed cabling at all (unless you don't want internal cabling and route on the outside of the bars). Unlike the integrated bars where the cables/wires poke out under the stem before going down the fork. This is only an issue if you're running an external Di2 junction box like I am as you normally place it under the stem where you have access to the wires being exposed, can connect the junction box and then the wires go down the fork. This is how I have my VB-R-168 set up.


Considered getting an internal junction box to mount to the opening in the top of the downtube, however I wasn't able to source one easily (aka I was too cheap and didn't find a deal I liked, plus needed another junction and extra wire). Someone suggested I just drill a hole in the stem and that's what I did! Solution worked perfectly and I don't have any concerns with the integrity of the stem provided how small the hole is and how thick the carbon in that area is. Photo below.


2. Smallest chainring for the GF-002 is 46T: I tried mounting my regular compact Shimano 2x crankset 50/34 and the small chainring was pressed hard against the chainstay with no room to move. Not sure if my choice of BB made a difference but I have a Wheels Manufacturing BB386EVO. I ended up getting some 24mm spacers for the crankset shaft to push out the crank and 3mm worth of spacers did the trick. Found out after from VB about the 46T chainring minimum.


A few things I appreciate having that my GF-001 didn't are:


- Fender eyelets in the fork
- Additional bottle/bag mounts on the side of the fork and under the downtube
- Round seatpost


Really happy with how the paint job turned out. I wasn't sure about their ability to blend the two colors but they did a good job with the transition. Decals were made locally and splatter is just some left over plasti-dip splattered by moi.


The newly revised slightly taller C ring for the headset seems to be making a difference to prevent the play issue some were experiencing with the separate bar/stem option. Overall happy with how it turned out.
June 15, 2022, 12:22:58 PM 		1